Baring Gould in Troubadour Land

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Title:InTroubadour-LandARambleinProvenceandLanguedoc

Author:S.Baring-Gould

ReleaseDate:September,2005[EBook#8819][Yes,wearemorethanoneyearaheadofschedule][ThisfilewasfirstpostedonAugust10,2003]

Edition:10

Language:English

Charactersetencoding:ASCII

***STARTOFTHEPROJECTGUTENBERGEBOOKINTROUBADOUR-LAND***

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[Frontispiece:TowerofSt.Trophimus,Arles.]

INTROUBADOUR-LAND.

ARamblein

ProvenceandLanguedoc.



by

S.Baring-Gould,M.A.,

AUTHOROF"MEHALAU,""JOHNHERRING,""OLDCOUNTRYLIFE,"ETC.

ILLUSTRATEDBYJ.E.ROGERS.

"Whatisthislife,ifitbenotmixedwithsomedelight?Andwhatdelightismorepleasingthantoseethefashionsandmannersofunknownplaces?YouknowIamnocommongadder,norhaveofttroubledyouwithtravell."--_TomofReading_,1600.

1891.

PREFACE.

WithMurray,Baedeker,GuideJoanne,andhalf-a-dozenothers--alldescribing,anddescribingwithexactness,theantiquitiesandscenery--thewriterofalittleaccountofProvenceandLanguedocisdriventogivemuchofpersonalincident.Whenheattemptstodescribewhatobjectshehasseen,heispulledupbyfindingalltheinformationheintendedtogiveinMurrayorinBaedekerorJoanne.Ifhewasinexuberantspiritsatthetime,andenjoyedhimselfvastly,heisunable,orunwilling,towithholdfromhisreaderssomeoftheoverflowofhisgoodspirits.Thatismyapologytothereader.Ifhereadsmylittlebookwhenhisliverisoutoforder,orinwinterfogsandcolds--hewillcallmeanass,andImustbearit.Ifheisinacheerfulmoodhimself,thenweshallagreeverywelltogether.

S.BARING-GOULD.

LEWTRENCHARD,DEVON,

_October28,1890._

CONTENTS.

CHAPTERI.

INTRODUCTORY.

TheTiberinFlood--TyphoidfeverinRome--Florence--AJewacquaintance--DrinkinginProvence--Buying_bric-a-brac_withtheJew--the _carro_onEasterEve--ItsrealOrigin--MyJewfriend'sletters--Italian _dolcefarniente_

CHAPTERII.



THERIVIERA.

Noillwithoutacounterbalancingadvantage--AnindustrypeculiartoItaly--Italianhonesty--BuffaloBillatNaples--ThePrinceandthestraw-colouredgloves--TheRiviera--Atapestry--Nice--Itsflowers--NotreDame--Thechateau--Mygardener--Apensionofuglywomen--Horsesandtheirhats--Antibes--MeetingofHonoreIV.andNapoleon--TheGrimaldis--Lerins,anIsleofSaints--Afamilyjar--Healed

CHAPTERIII.

FREJUS.

ThefreedmanofPliny--ForumJulii--ThePortofAgay--ThePortofFrejus--Romancastle--Aqueduct--ThelanternofAugustus--Thecathedral--Cloisters--Boyanddolphin--StorytoldbyPliny--The_ChainsdesMaures_--Desaugiers--DineswiththeporkbutchersofParis--Sieyes--_Sansphrase_--Agricola--Hisdiscoveries

CHAPTERIV.

MARSEILLES.

ThethreeislandsPhoenice,Phila,Iturium--MarseillesfirstaPhoeniciancolony--ThetariffoffeesexactedbythepriestsofBaal--ThearrivaloftheIonians--ThelegendofProtisandGyptis--SecondcolonyofIonians--ThevoyagesofPytheasandEuthymenes--CaptureofMarseillesbyTrebonius--PositionoftheGreekcity--TheAcropolis--Greekinscriptions--Theladywhonever"jawed"herhusband--Thetombofthesailor-boy--HoteldesNegociants--Menu--EntryofthePresidentoftheRepublic--EntryofFrancisI.--ThechurchofS.Vincent--Thecathedral--NotreDamedelaGarde--TheabbeyofS.Victor--Catacombs--ThefableofS.Lazarus

CHAPTERV.

THECRAU.

TheBasinofBerre--Aneglectedharbour--Thediluvium--FormationoftheCrau--ThetwoCraus--CanalofCraponne--ClimateoftheCrau--The_bise_and _mistral_--Forceofthewind--Cypresses--Avisionofkobolds

CHAPTERVI.

LESALYSCAMPS.

Difficultyoffindingone'swayaboutinArles--Thetwoinns--The _mistral_--ThecharmofArlesisinthepast--Adeadcity--SituationofArlesonanoduleoflimestone--TheElysianFields--Aburial-place

forthesubmergedneighbourhood--TheAlyscampnowinprocessofdestruction--Expropriationofancienttombs--Avenueoftombs--OldchurchofS.Honore--S.Trophimus--S.Virgilius--Augustine,apostleoftheEnglish,consecratedbyhim--TheflyingDutchman--TombofAElia--OfJuliaTyranna--Hermusicalinstruments--MonumentofCalpurnia--Herprobablestory--Mathematical_versus_classicstudies--Tombsof _utriculares_--Christiansarcophagi--Probablyolderthanthedateusuallyattributedtothem--AFrenchauthoronthewreckageoftheElysianFields

CHAPTERVII.



PAGANARLES.

TheArlesraceamixtureofGreekandGaulish--ThecolonisationbytheRomans--ThetypeofbeautyinArles--Theamphitheatre--Abull-baiting--Provencalbull-baitsdifferentfromSpanishbull-fights--Thetheatre--TheancientGreekstage--ThedestructionoftheArlestheatre--Excavationoftheorchestra--DiscoveryoftheVenusofArles--Asickgirl--PalaceofConstantine

CHAPTERVIII.

CHRISTIANARLES.

SundayinFrance--Improvedobservance--ThecathedralofArles--Westfront--Interior-Tool-marks--Asermononpeace--Thecloisters--OldSacristanandhisgarden--NumberofdesecratedchurchesinArles--NotreDamedelaMajeur--S.Caesaire--TheislesnearArles--Cordes--Montmajeur--Agipsycamp--Theruins--Tower--ThechapelofS.Croix

CHAPTERIX.

LESBAUX.

ThechainoftheAlpines--ThepromontoryofLesBaux--TherailwayfromArlestoSalon--FirstsightofLesBaux--ThechurchesofS.Victor,S.Claude,andS.Andrew--ThelordsofLesBauxclaimeddescentfromoneoftheMagi--Thefairmaidwithgoldenlocks--ThechapeloftheWhitePenitents--The_deimo_--HistoryoftheHouseofLesBaux--ThebaronypassestotheGrimaldi--TheladiesofLesBauxandthetroubadours--Fouquet--WilliamdeCabestaing--Themoralityofthelovesofthetroubadours--ThePorcelets--Storyofasiege--LesBauxaplaceofrefugeforthecitizensofArles--_GlanumLiviae_--ItsRomanremains--Inthetrain--Jaegergarments

CHAPTERX.

THECAMPAIGNOFMARIUS.

TheTremaie--RepresentationofC.Marius,Martha,andJulia--TheGaie--TheTeutonsandAmbronsandCimbrithreatenItaly--C.Mariussentagainstthem--HiscampatS.Gabriel--Thecanalhecut--ThebarbarianscrosstheRhone--Firstbrushwiththem--TheydefilebeforehimatOrgon--TheroutoftheAmbronsatLesMilles--HefollowstheTeutons--TheplainofPourrieres--PositionofMarius--Thebattle--SlaughteroftheTeutons--Positionoftheircamp--MonumentofMarius--VenusVictrix--Annualcommemoration

CHAPTERXI.

TRETSANDGARDANNE.

ThefortificationsofTrets--Thestreets--Thechurch--Romansarcophagus--ChateauofTrets--Visittoaself-educatedarchaeologist--Hiscollectionmadeonthebattle-field--Disputeoverapotofburntbones--Onemagpie--Gardanne--Thechurch--Avielle--Troublewithit--Storyofanexecutioner'ssword

CHAPTERXII.



AIX.

Dooll,butthemuttongood--LesBainsdeSextius--Ironworkcapstotowers--S.JeandeMalthe--Museum--Cathedral--Tapestriesandtombs--Thecloisters--ViewfromS.Eutrope--KingReneofAnjou--Hismisfortunes--Hischeeriness--HisstatueatAix--IntroducestheMuscatgrape

CHAPTERXIII.

THECAMARGUE.

FormationofthedeltaoftheRhone--Thediluvialwash--Thealluviumspreadoverthis--Thethreestagestheriverpursues--Thezoneoferosion--Thezoneofcompensation--Thezoneofdeposit--Rivermouths--Estuariesanddeltas--Theformationofbars--Oflagoons--ThelagoonsoftheGulfofLyons--TheancientpositionofArlesbetweentheriverandthelagoons--NeglectofthelagoonsintheMiddleAges--Theybecomemorasses--Attemptatremedy--Embankmentsanddrains--Amistakemade--TheCamarguenowadesert--LesSaintesMaries--Noevidencetosupportthelegend--Basedonamisapprehension

CHAPTERXIV.

TARASCON.

PositionofTarasconandBeaucaireoppositeeachother--ChurchofS.Martha--Crypt--Ancientpaintings--Catechising--Ancientaltar--ThefestivaloftheTarasque--ThePhoeniciangoddessMartha--StoryofS.Fronto--Discussionat_dejeuner_overtheentryofM.CarnotintoMarseilles--ThechangeintheFrenchcharacter--Pessimism--Beaucaire--Font--Castle--SiegebyRaymondVII.--StoryofAucassinandNicolette

CHAPTERXV.

NIMES.

TherightspellingofNimes--Derivationofname--Thefountain--Throwingcoinsintosprings--Collectingcoins--SymbolofAgrippa--CharacterofAgrippa--WhathedidforNimes--TheMaisonCarree--DifferentideaofworshipintheHeathenworldfromwhatprevailsinChristendom--S.Baudille--Vespers--ActivityoftheChurchinFrance--BehaviouroftheclergyinItalytotheKingandQueen--TheRevolutionablessingtotheChurchinFrance--ChurchservicesinItalyandinFrance--TheTourmagne--Uncertaintyastoitsuse--CathedralofNimes--Otherchurches--Acanarylottery--AltarstotheSun--Thesun-wheel--ThecrossofConstantine--AnecdoteofFlechier

CHAPTERXVI.

AIGUESMORTESANDMAGUELONNE.

Adeadtown--TheRhones-morts--Bars--S.LouisandtheCrusades--HowS.LouisacquiredAiguesMortes--Hiscanal--Thefourlittoralchainsandlagoons--Thefortifications--Uniquefortheirdate--Originaluseofbattlements--Desertedstateofthetown--Maguelonne--Howreached--HistoryofMaguelonne--Cathedral--TheBishopsforgeSaracencoins--Seconddestructionoftheplace--Inscriptionondoor--BernarddeTreviis--HisromanceofPierredeProvence--Provencalpoetrynotalwaysimmoral--PresentstateofMaguelonne



CHAPTERXVII.

BEZIERSANDNARBONNE.

PositionofBeziers--S.Nazaire--TheAlbigenses--Theirtenets--Albigensian"consolation"--Crusadeagainstthem--ThestormingofBeziers--Massacre--CathedralofBeziers--Girls'facesinthetrain--SimilarfacesatNarbonne,incathedralandmuseum--NarbonneaRomancolony--AlltheRomanbuildingsdestroyed--Capsofliberty--Christiansarcophagi--Children'stoysofbakedclay--Cathedralunfinished--Archiepiscopalpalace--UnsatisfactoryworkofM.Viollet-le-Duc--Introublewiththepolice--TakenforaGermanspy--Mysketch-bookgetsmeoff

CHAPTERXVIII.

CARCASSONNE.

SiegeofCarcassonnebytheCrusaders--Capture--Perfidyoflegate--DeathoftheViscount--Continuationofthewar--ChurchesofNewCarcassonne--_LaCite_--AperfectMediaevalfortifiedtown--Disappointing--Visigothfortifications--Lateradditions--Thecathedral--TombofSimondeMontfort

CHAPTERXIX.

AVIGNON.

HowAvignonpassedtothePopes--ThecourtofClementVI.--JohnXXII.--BenedictXII.--Theirtombs--PetrarchandLaura--ThePalaceofthePopes--TheSalleBrulee--Cathedral--Porch--S.Agricole--ChurchofS.Pierre--Themuseum--ViewfromtheRocherdesdoms--TheRhone--Thebridge--StoryofS.Benezet--Dancingonbridges--Villeneuve--TombofInnocentVI.--ThecastleatVilleneuve--Defences--Tete-du-pontofthebridge

CHAPTERXX.

VALENCE.

Adulltown--Cathedral--JacquesCujas--Hisdaughter--PiusVI.--Hisdeath--MaisondesTetes--LePendentif--ThecastleofCrussol--ThedukesofUzes--Adramaticcompanyofthethirteenthcentury

CHAPTERXXI.

VIENNE.

Historicassociations--SalvationArmybonnets--Thefair--Aquack--Avampire--Theamphitrite--A_carousel_--TempleofAugustusand

Livia--TheAiguille--Cathedral--Angelsandmusicalinstruments--S.Andre-le-Bas--SituationofVienne--FoundationoftheChurchthere--LetteroftheChurchonthemartyrdomsatLyons

CHAPTERXXII.

BOURGES.

ThesiegeofAvaricumbyCaesar--ThecompletesubjugationofGaul--ThestatueoftheDyingGaulatRome--BeautyofBourges--Thecathedral--Not



completedaccordingtodesign--Defectinheight--Strictgeometricalproportionindesignnotalwayssatisfactory--Necessityofproportionforacoustics--DomesticarchitectureinBourges--ThehouseofJacquesCoeur--Storyofhislife--Arainyday--WhyBourgesincludedinthisbook--Asilverthimble--_Quedesingeriesfaites-vousla,Madeleine?_--Adieu

APPENDIX

LISTOFILLUSTRATIONS.

FULLPAGEILLUSTRATIONS.

TowerofS.Trophimus,ArlesAbbeyofS.Victor,MarseillesPartoftheNorthCloisterofArlesCathedralLesBauxThePontduGardBeziersfromtheRiverAnEntrancetoCarcassonneTheCathedralandthePalaceofthePopes,Avignon

GENERALILLUSTRATIONS.

TheCarroAFlorentineTorchHolderAHorseinaHatLerinsAqueductofFrejusLanternofAugustusMapofMassaliaMusicalInstrumentsfromtheTombofJuliaCalpurnia'sMonument

AnArelaise.(_FromaPhotograph._)PartoftheAmphitheatreofArlesBackofaHouseatArlesABoatwithtworuddersatArlesOnaHouseatArlesSamsonandtheLion,fromtheWestdooroftheCathedralofArlesOnaHouseatArlesSouthEntrancetotheCloister,ArlesCathedralChurchofNotreDamedelaMajeur,ArlesTowerofthedesecratedChurchofS.Croix,ArlesPartoftheCourtyardoftheConventofS.Caesarius,ArlesChurchofthePenitentsGris,ArlesIntheCloisters,Montmajeur

IntheCloisteratArlesLesBauxRangeoftheAlpinesfromGlanumLiviaeRuinsS.GabrielLaTremaieLesGaieCaiusMarius(_FromabustintheVatican._)OrgonandtheDuranceMontVictoireandthePlainofPourrieresSketchPlanoftheBattle-fields



MonumentofMariusVenusVictrixGardanneTheVielleLesSaintesMariesEarlyAltar,TarasconSpireofS.Martha'sChurch,TarasconIronDoortoSafeinS.Martha'sChurchKingRene'sCastle,TarasconAbitinTarasconTheChapelofBeaucaireCastleBeaucaireCastlefromTarascon.--SunsetInthePublicGarden,NimesTheMaisonCarree,NimesCathedralofNimes.--PartofWestFrontAiguesMortes.--OneoftheGatesAiguesMortes.--ToweroftheBourgignonsSketchMapofAiguesMortesanditsLittoralChainsOriginaluseofBattlements.(_FromViollet-le-Duc._)SecondstageofBattlementsEastEndoftheChurchofMaguelonneBeziers.--ChurchofS.NazaireFountainintheCloisterofS.Nazaire,BeziersTypesoffaces,Narbonne:Modern--Sixteenth-CenturyTombin

Cathedral--ClassicBustinMuseumFreedmen'sCaps,NarbonneChildren'sToysintheMuseum,NarbonneTowersontheWall,CarcassonneABitofCarcassonneInsidetheWall,CarcassonnePapalThroneintheCathedralofAvignonJohnXXII.BenedictXII.AnAngleofthePapalPalace,AvignonLanternattheCathedral,AvignonAngelatWestDoor,ChurchofS.AgricoleABitoftheOldWall,Avignon

PartofChurchofS.Didier,AvignonBridgeandChapelofS.BenezetAtVilleneuveCastleofS.Andre,atVilleneuveAtVilleneuveAWellatVilleneuveCathedralofValenceDoorwayintheHouseDupreLatour,ValenceDoorwayandNicheintheMaisondesTetes,ValenceHouseinVienneAtVienneHurdy-GurdyPlayedbyanAngelChurchofS.Andre-le-Bas.--TheTower

Portedel'Ambulance,VienneAStreetCorner,BourgesPartofJacquesCoeur'sHouseTurretintheHotelLallemandStaircaseintheHotelLallemandSculptureovertheKitchenEntranceatJacquesCoeur'sHouseJacquesCoeur'sKnocker



CHAPTERI.

INTRODUCTORY.

TheTiberinFlood--TyphoidfeverinRome--Florence--AJewacquaintance--DrinkinginProvence--Buying_bric-a-brac_withtheJew--The _carro_onEasterEve--ItsrealOrigin--MyJewfriend'sletters--Italian _dolcefarniente_.

Conceiveyourselfconfrontedbyapop-gun,sometenfeetindiameter,chargedwithmephiticvapoursandpluggedwithmicrobesoftyphoidfever.Conceiveyoursensationswhenyouwereawarethatthepistonwasbeingdrivenhome.

ThatwasmysituationinMarch,1890,whenIgotaletterfromMessrs.AllenaskingmetogointoProvenceandLanguedoc,andwritethemabookthereon.Idodgedthemicrobe,andwent.

TomakemyselfunderstoodImustexplain.

IwasinRome.Fortendayswithasiroccowindtherainshaddescended,as

surelytheyhadnevercomedownsincethewindowsofheavenwereopenedattheFlood.TheTiberrosethirty-twofeet.NowRomeistunnelledunderthestreetswithdrainsorsewersthatcarryalltherefuseofagreatcityintotheTiber.But,naturally,whentheTiberswellshighabovethecrownsofthesewers,theyarechoked.Allthefoulnessofthegreattownisheldbackunderthehousesandstreets,andbreedsgasesloathsometothenoseandnoxioustolife.Notonlyso,butacolumnofwater,sometwentytotwenty-fivefeetinheight,isactinglikethepistonofapop-gun,andisdrivingalltheaccumulatedgaseschargedwiththegermsoftyphoidfeverintoeveryhousewhichhascommunicationwiththesewers.Thereisnohelpforit,thepoisonousvapours_must_beforcedoutofthedrainsand_must_ beforcedintothehouses.Thatiswhy,withariseoftheTiber,typhoidfeveriscertaintobreakoutinRome.

AsIwentoverPonteS.AngeloIwaswonttolookovertheparapetattheopeningofthesewerthatcarriedoffthedregsofthatportionofthecitywhereIwasresiding.OnedayIlookedforit,andlookedinvain.TheTiberhadswelledandwasoverflowingitsbanks,andforaweekorfortnighttherecouldbenoquestion,notasewerinthevastcitywouldbefreetodoanythingelsebutmischief.IdidnotgoontotheVaticangalleriesthatday.IcouldnothaveenjoyedthestatuesintheBraccioNuovo,northefrescoesintheLoggia.Iwenthome,foundMessrs.Allen'sletter,packedmyGladstonebag,andbolted.Ishallneverlearnwhogotthemicrobedestinedforme,whichIdodged.

IwenttoFlorence;attheinnwhereIputup--onegenuinelyItalian,

Bonciani's,--Imadeanacquaintance,aGermanJew,apicture-dealerwithashopinacertaincapital,nomatterwhich,editorofa_bric-a-brac_ paper,andarightmerryfellow.IintroducehimtothereaderbecauseheaffordedmesomeinformationconcerningProvence.Hehadabranchestablishment--nevermindwhere,butinProvence--andhehadcometoFlorencetopickuppicturesand_bric-a-brac_.

Ouracquaintancebeganasfollows.Wesatoppositeeachotherattableintheevening.Alargerush-encasedflaskissetbeforeeachguestinaswingcarriage,thatenableshimtopourouthisglassfulfromthebig-bellied



flaskwithouteffort.EachflaskislabelledvariouslyChianti,Asti,Pomino,butallthewineshavealikesubstanceandflavour,andeachisanequallygoodlightdinner-wine.Aflaskwhenfullcoststhreefrancstwentycentimes;andwhentheguestfallsbackinhisseat,withasmileofsatisfactiononhisface,andhisheartfullofgoodwilltowardsallmen,forthathehasdonehisdinner,thenthebottleistakenout,weighed,andtheguestchargedtheamountofwinehehasconsumed.Hegetsafreshflaskateverymeal.

"DulieberHimmel!"exclaimedmy_vis-a-vis_."Idob'lieveIhevdrunkdreefrancs.Takeupdeflascheandweighher.Tinkso?"

"Icanbelieveitwithoutweighingthebottle,"Ireplied.

"Andonlyfoursous--twentycentimesleft!"exclaimedtheoldgentleman,meditatively."Butfoursousisfoursous.Itisdepriceofminepaper"--brighteninginhisreflections--"Icanbutshellonecopymore,andIamallright."Brighteningtogreaterbrilliancyasheturnstome:"Willyoubuydelastnumberofmypaper?Sheisinmypocket.Sheisver'interesting.Oh!ver'so.Mocheinformationfortwopence."

"Ishallbecharmed,"Isaid,andextendedtwentycentimesacrossthetable.

"AchTausend!Dassistherrlich!"andhedrewoffthelastdropsofPomino."NowIwilltellyouvunding.HevyoubeeninProvence?"

"Provence!Why--Iamonmywaythere,now."

"Denlistentome.Eberypeopleshevdifferentwaysofdoingdesameding.Yougointoacabaretdere,andyouaskforwine.Depatronbringsyouabottle,andatdesametimelooksatdeclockandwidabitofchalkhemarkyoudownyourtime.Yousayyouwilldrinkattwopence,ordreepence,orfourpence.Youdrinkatdatpriceyouhavecovenantedforonehour,youdrinkatsamepriceanodderhour,andyousleep--butyoupayalldesame,wedderyoudrinkorwedderyousleep,twopence,ordreepence,orfourpencedehour.Itisanoldcustom.Youunderstand?Itisdecustomof

decountry--ofLabelleProvence."

"Iquiteunderstandthatitistotheinterestofthetavernertomakehiscustomersdrunk."

"Drunk!"repeatedmyMosaicacquaintance."Iwilltellyouonedingmore,ver'characteristicofdenationalities.AFrenchman--_ilboit_;aGerman--_ersauft_;andanEnglishman--hegetsfresh.Deryouhevdenaturesofdedreepeoplesasinapicture.DeFrenchman,helookstodemoment,andnotbeyond._Ilboit_.DeGerman,helookstodeend._Ersauft_.DeEnglishman,hesitsdownfreshandintendstogetfuddled;butheisahypocrite.Hedoesnotsaydetruthtohisselfnortonobody,hesays,_Iwillgetfresh_,whenhemeansdeodderding.Bighumbug.You

understand?"

OnemorningmyJewfriendsaidtome:"Doyouwanttoseede,whatyoucallbehind-de-scenesofFlorence?Ver'well,youcomewidme.Iamgoingafterpictures."

Hehadacarriageatthedoor.Ijumpedinwithhim,andwespentthedayindrivingaboutthetown,visitingpalacesandthehousesofprofessionalmenandtradesmen--ofallwhowere"downontheirluck,"andwantedtopartwithart-treasures.Hereweenteredapalace,ofroughedstoneblocksafter



theancientFlorentinestyle,whereasplendidporterwithcockedhat,asilver-headed_baton_,andgorgeousliverykeptguard.Upthewhitemarblestairs,intostatelyhallsoverladenwithgilding,thewallscrowdedwithpaintingsincumbrousbutresplendentframes.PrinceSo-and-Sohadgotintofinancialdifficulties,andwantedtopartwithsomeofhisheirlooms.

Thereweenteredameandoorinabackstreet,ascendedadirtystair,andcameintoasuiteofapartments,whereadishevelledwomaninadirtysplitdressing-gownreceivedusandshowedusintoherhusband'ssanctum,crowdedwithrareoldpaintingsongoldgrounds.Hergoodmanhadbeenacollectoroftheearlyschoolofart;nowhewasill,hecouldnotattendtohisbusiness,hemightnotrecover,andwhilsthewasillhiswifewasgettingridofsomeofhistreasures.

Thereweenteredthemansionofawidow,whohadlostherhusbandrecently,arichmerchant.Theheirswerequarrellingoverthespoil,andshewasinahurrytomakewhatshecouldforherselfbeforeavaluercametoreckontheworthofthepaintingsandsilverandcabinets.

InthatdayIsawmanysidesoflife.

"Buthowintheworld,"Iaskedofmyguide,"didyouknowthatallthesepeoplewerewantingtosell?"

"Ihavemyagentsebberywhere,"washisreply.

Ithoughtofthe_Diableboiteux_carryingthestudentofAlcalaoverthecity,Madrid,removingtheroofsofthehouses,andexposingtohisviewthestoriesofthelivesandmiseriesofthosewithin.

IwasatFlorenceonEasterEve.Aceremonyofaverypeculiarcharactertakesplacethereonthatdayatnoon.Inthemorningamonstrousblackstructureonwheels,sometwenty-fivefeethigh,isbroughtintothesquarebeforethecathedralbyoxen,garlandedwithflowers.Thiserection,the _carro_,isalsodecoratedwithflowers,butislikewisecoveredwithfireworks.Aropeisthenextendedfromthe_carro_toapolewhichissetupinthechoiroftheDuomo,beforethehighaltar.Forthispurposethe

greatwestdoorsarethrownopen,andtheropeextendsthewholelengthofthenave.Uponit,closetothepole,isperchedawhitedoveofplaster.

Crowdsassemblebothinthesquareandinthenaveofthecathedral.Peasantsfromthecountrysidecomeininbands,andbeforethehourofnooneveryvantageplaceisoccupied,andthesquareandthestreetscommandingitarefilledwithaseaofheads.

[Illustration:TheCarro.]

Athalf-pasteleven,thearchbishop,thecanons,thechoir,godownthenaveinprocession,andmakethecircuitoftheDuomo,thenre-enterthecathedral,taketheirplacesinthechoir,andthemassforEasterEveis

begun.AttheGospel--atthestrokeoftwelve,amatchisappliedtoafusee,andinstantlythewhitedovefliesalongtherope,pouringforthatailoffire,downthenave,outatthewestgates,overtheheadsofthecrowd,reachesthe_carro_,ignitesafuseethere,turns,and,stillpropelledbyitsfierytail,whizzesalongthecordagain,tillithasreacheditsperchonthepoleinthechoir,whenthefiregoesoutanditremainsstationary.Butinthemeantimethematchignitedbythedovehascommunicatedwiththesquibsandcrackersattachedtothe_carro_,andthewholemassofpaintedwoodandflowersisenvelopedinfireandsmoke,fromwhichissuesheetsofflameandlouddetonations.Meanwhile,massisbeing



sungcomposedlywithinthechoir,asthoughnothingwashappeningwithout.Thefireworkscontinuetoexplodeforaboutaquarterofanhour,andthenthegreatgarlandedoxen,white,withhugehorns,arereyokedtothe _carro_,anditisdrawnaway.

Theflightofthedoveforitscourseofabout540feetiswatchedbythepeasantswithbreathlessattention,fortheytakeitseasyorjerkyflightasominousoftheweatherfortherestoftheyearandoftheprospectsofharvest.Ifthebirdsailsalongwithoutahitch,thenthesummerwillbefine,butiftherebesluggishnessofmovement,andonehalt,thenanother,theyearissuretobeoneofstormsandlatefrostsandhail.

Nowwhatistheoriginofthisextraordinarycustom--acustomthatischildish,andyetissocuriousthatonewouldhardlywishtoseeitabolished?

Severalstoriesaretoldtoexplainit,noneverysatisfactory.Accordingtoone,aFlorentineknightwasinthecrusadinghostofGodfreydeBouillon,andwasthefirsttoclimbthewallsofJerusalem,andplantthereonthebanneroftheCross.HeatoncesenttidingsoftherecoveryoftheHolySepulchrebacktohisnativetownbyacarrierpigeon,andthustheFlorentinesreceivedthegladtidingslongbeforeitreachedanyothercityinEurope.Intokenoftheirgladnessatthenews,theyinstitutedtheceremonyofthewhitepigeonandthe_carro_onEasterEve.

[Illustration:AFlorentinetorchholder.]

AnotherstoryistotheeffectthatthisFlorentineenteredthecityofJerusalembeforethefirstcrusade,brokeoffalargefragmentoftheHolySepulchre,andcarriedittoFlorence.HewaspursuedbytheSaracens,butescapedbyshoeinghishorsewithreversedirons.AnotherversionisthatheresolvedtobringbacktoFlorencethesacredflamethatburntintheChurchoftheHolySepulchre.Accordinglyhelightedthereatatorch,androdebacktoItalywiththetorchflaming.Buttoprotectitfromthewind,herodewithhisfacetothetailofhissteed,screeningthetorchwithhisbody.Ashethusrode,folkwhosawhimshouted"Pazzi!Pazzi!"--Fool!Fool!andthisnamewasassumedbyhisfamilyeverafter.ThePazzis

ofFlorenceeveryyearpaidalltheexpensesofthe_carro_tillquiterecently,whentheMunicipalityassumedthechargeandnowdefrayitfromthecitychest.Clearlytheoriginofthecustomisforgotten;neverthelessitisnotdifficulttoexplainthemeaningoftheceremony.

IntheEasternChurch,andstill,inmanychurchesintheWest,thelightsareextinguishedonGoodFriday,andformerlythiswasthecasewithallfires,thoseofthedomestichearthaswellasthelampsinchurch.OnEasterDay,freshfirewasstruckwithflintandsteelbythebishop,andallcandles,lampsandhearthswererekindledfromthisnewlight.AtthepresentdayoneofthemostsolemnscenesintheEasternChurchisthiskindlingoftheEasterfire,anditscommunicationfromonetoanotherinavastcongregationassembledtoreceiveitandcarryitofftotheirhomes.

IntheChurchoftheHolySepulchreatJerusalem,thenewfirekindledandblessedbythepatriarch,iscastdownfromtheheightofthedome.

InFlorence,anciently,itwasmuchthesame.ThearchbishopstrucktheEasterfire,anditwasthendistributedamongthepeople;buttherewereinconveniences,unseemlyscuffles,accidentseven,andthedovewasdevisedasameansofconveyingtheEasterfireoutsidetheDuomo,andkindlingagreatbonfire,whereatthepeoplemightlighttheirtorcheswithoutdesecratingthesacredbuildingbyscramblingandfightingthereinforthehallowedflame.Atthisbonfireallcouldobtainthefirewithout



inconvenience.Bydegreesthebonfirelostitssignificance,sodidthedove,andfableswereinventedtoexplainthecustom.Thebonfire,moreover,degeneratedintoanexhibitionoffireworksatmid-day.

OnemorningmyJewfriendinsistedonmyreadingaletterhehadjustreceivedfromhisdaughter,agedfourteen.Hewasproudofthedaughter,andhighlypleasedwiththeletter.

Itbeganthus:"Cherpapa--noussommessauves.ThatpictureofaGenoeseladyyouboughtfor200francs,anddoubtedifyouwouldbeabletogetridof,IsoldbeforewelefthomeforProvencetoanAmerican,asagenuineQueenElizabethfor1,000francs."Thenfollowedthreeclosely-writtenpagesofrecordofbusinesstransactions,allshowingabalancetothegood,allshowingaprofitnowhereunderthirtypercent.Finally,theletterconcluded:"Mamma'sbackisbetter.LouisandIwentonSundaytoseeafarm.Acow,astable,anoldpeasantesssayingherrosary,adaughterknitting--allreal,notwaxwork.Votrefilletresdevouee,LEAH."

"Thatisagirltobeproudof,"saidmyacquaintance."Andonlyfourteen!Buthein!hereisanotherletterIhavereceived,anditisawkward."HetoldmethatwhenhehadbeeninLondononbusinesshehadlodgedinthehouseofacouplewhowerenotonthebestofterms.Thehusbandhadbeenawidowerwithonechild,adaughter,andthestepmothercouldnotabidethechild.WhilstM.Cohen,myfriend,wasthere,thequarrelshadbeenmany,

andhehaddonehisbesttosmoothmattersbetweentheparties.ThenhehadinvitedthemovertovisittheContinentandstayathishouse.Theyhadcome,andhehadagaintoexercisetheofficeofmediator."Andnow,"lamentedmygood-heartedfriend,"nebberoneweekbutIgetaletterfromdeleddy.Hereisdis,sentontome.Readit."Theletterranasfollows:--

"Dowritetome.Ifearmylastlettercannothavereachedyou,oryouwouldhaveansweredit.Iammiserable.Myhusbandissocrossaboutthatlittlegirl,becauseIcannotlovethenastylittlebeast.Oh,Mr.Cohen,docometoLondon,orletmecomeabroadandliveinyourhouseawayfrommyhusbandandthatchild.Youweresosensibleandsokind.Ican'tbeartobelongerhereinthehousewithmyhusbandandthespoiledchild."

Myfriendlookeddisconsolatelyatme.

"WhatamItodo?"heasked."Shewriteseberyweek,andIdon'tanswer.Andmywifesendsondeseletters."

"Do?"saidI."SendthisoneatoncetoMadameCohen,andaskhertoansweritforyou.ThatLondonladywillnevertroubleyouagain."

ThefollowingcircumstanceIrelate,notthatithasthesmallestimportanceexceptasacharacteristicsketchofItalian_dolcefarniente_,andasalessontotravellers.Theproperstudyofmankindisman,andalittleincidentsuchasoccurredtome,andwhichIwillnowrelate,raises

thecurtainandshowsusafeatureofhumanityinItaly.WhenIhurriedfromRome,IsentoffallmyluggagebygoodstraintoEngland,exceptsucharticlesasIcouldcompressintoaGladstonebag;achangeofraimentofcoursewasthere.Butmarkthecrueltyoffate.Myfootslippedonawhitemarblestair,andIrentacertaingarmentattheknee.IatoncedivedintomyGladstonebagandproducedanotherpair,butfoundwithashockthattheyalsohadsuffered--becomethreadbare,andneededattentionfromatailor.Whatwastobedone?IhadtoleaveFlorenceatnoon.Thediscoverywasmadethenightbefore.Iroseearly,breakfastedearly,andhungabouttheshopdoorofatailorat8A.M.tillthedoorwasopened,whenI



entered,statedmycase,andtheobliging_sartore_promisedthatthetriflingremedyshouldbeappliedandIshouldhavemygarmentagaininonehour."Inonehour!"hesaid,holdinguphishandinsolemnasseveration.

Nineo'clockcame;thenten,andmyraimenthadnotreturned.Iflewtothetailor'sshopandaskedformygarment."Itwasallright,"saidhe,"onlythethreadbeingknotted.Itshouldbesenttomyinn."SoIreturnedandwaited.Ihadmylunch,paidmybill,packedmybag,lookedatmywatch.Theomnibuswasatthedoor.Nogarment.Irantothetailor's.Helistenedtomytaleofdistresswithanamiablesmileonhisface,thenvolunteeredtocomewithmetomyinn,andtalkthematteroverwiththehost.AccordinglyhelockeduphisshopandsaunteredwithmetoBonciani's.Boncianiandheconsideredthecircumstancesatlength,thrashedthesubjectthoroughly.Then,asthehorseswerebeingputintotheomnibus--"Come,"saidthetailor,"Ihaveabrother,agrocer,wewillgotohim."

"Butwhy?"askedI."Doyousee,theboxesarebeingputontheomnibus.Iwantmy--garment."

"Youmustcomewithmetomybrother's,"saidthetailor.Sotothegrocer'swentwe.VainlydidItrustthatthejourneymanwhowasengagedonmyarticleofapparellodgedthere,andthat,doneorundone,Icouldrecoveritthence.Butno--notso.Thewholestorywasrelatedwith

embellishmentstothebrother,thegrocer,wholistened,discussed,commentedon,thematter.

"Theregoesthe'bus!"Ishouted,lookingdownthestreet."Evennow,ifyouwillletmehavethearticle,Icanruntothestationandgetoff;Ihavemyticket."

"Subito!subito!"saidthetailor.

Thenthegrocersaidthatthethinginrequestmightbesentbypost."But,"Ireplied,"IamgoingintoFrance,toNice,andclothesaresubjectedtoburdensomechargesifcarriedacrossthefrontier."

"Tenminutes!"Igasped."Almosttoolate."

Amomentlater--

"Appunto!"

"Theclockisstriking.Iamdonefor."

"Appunto!"andhelightedacigarette.

SoIhadtotravelbynight,insteadofbyday.

CHAPTERII.

THERIVIERA.

Noillwithoutacounterbalancingadvantage--AnindustrypeculiartoItaly--Italianhonesty--BuffaloBillatNaples--ThePrinceandthestraw-colouredgloves--TheRiviera--Atapestry--Nice--Itsflowers--Notre



Dame--Thechateau--Mygardener--Apensionofuglywomen--Horsesandtheirhats--Antibes--MeetingofHonoreIV.andNapoleon--TheGrimaldis--Lerins,anIsleofSaints--Afamilyjar--Healed.

Thatwasnotall.Thedawdlingofthetailornotonlymademelosethemid-daytrain,butdelayedmyarrivalinNicefortwenty-fourhours.ItookthenighttraintoPisa,whereIpurposedcatchingtheexpressfromRome.Buttheexpresscameslouchingalonginahands-in-the-pocketsortofway,andwasoverhalf-an-hourlate,andwouldnotbestiritselftopickupthemisspent,lostmomentsbetweenPisaandGenoa,theconsequenceofwhichwasthatthetrainforNicehadgoneonwithoutwaiting,andaccordinglythosewhodesiredtoprosecutetheirjourneyinthatdirectionwereobligedtoloiteraboutinthesmallhoursofthemorningbetweenarestaurant,halfasleep,andawaiting-roomwheretheelectriclighthadgoneout,tillthehourofseven.

BeforeleavingItaly,ImaymentionanindustrywhichIfoundcultivatedthere,original,andIbelieveunique.WhenIprocuredpostagestampsatthepost-offices,Iwassurprised,ifItookthemhomewithme,tofindthattheiradhesivepowerhadfailed.IalsoreceivedindignantlettersfromcorrespondentsinEnglandremonstratingwithmeforpostingmycommunicationstothemunstamped.Thissurprisedme,andatRome,whereIhadbeenaccustomedtopurchase_franco-bolli_attheheadoffice,Itook

themhomeandregummedthem.Buttheremarkablephenomenonwas,thatsuchstampsaswerepurchasedattobacconists'shopshadgumonthem--onlythoseacquiredatthepost-officeswerewithout.IlearnedthatthesamepeculiarityexistedatFlorence,andindeedelsewhereinItaly,andfinallytheexplanationwasvouchsafedtome.Thefunctionaryatthepost-officepassesawetspongeoverthebackofthesheetsof_franco-bolli_suppliedtohim,thusremovingtheadhesivematter.Whenhesellsstampsatthewindow,hehopesthatthosewhopurchasewillproceedatoncetoapplythemtotheirletters,withoutperceivingtheirdeficiencies.Assoonasthestampbecomesdryitfallsoff,andquiteacollectionofstampsofsundryvaluescanthusbegatheredateveryclearingofthebox,andthepostalclerkreapsthenceadailyharvestthatgoesalongwaytowardstheekingoutthesmallpittancepaidhimbyGovernment.Itisinterestingtoseethe

directionstakenbyhumanenterprise.

WhilstIwasinRome,BuffaloBillwasinNaplesexhibitinghistroupeofhorsesandgangofIndians.TheItalianpapersinformedthepublicofaremarkableexploitachievedbytheNeapolitans.TheyhaddoneBuffaloBilloutoftwothousandfrancs.Ithadbeeneffectedinthiswise.Hisreservedseatswerechargedfivefrancs.Fourhundredforgedfive-francnoteswerepassedatthedoorofhisshowbywell-dressedNeapolitans,indeed,the_elite_ofNeapolitansociety;andthetrickplayedonhimwasnotdiscoveredtilltoolate.Nowconsiderwhatthisimplies.Itimpliesthatsomehundredsofthebestpeople,princes,counts,marquessesatNapleslentthemselvestoseeBuffaloBill'sexhibitionbyafraud.Theywantedtoseeandbeseenthere,butnottopayfivefrancsforaseat.Theremust

havebeencombination,andthatamongthemembersofthearistocracyofNaples.TheItalianpapersdidnotmentionthisinatoneofdisgust,butratherinoneofsurprisethatItaliansshouldhavebeenabletooverreachaYankee.ButIdonotbelievesuchafraudwouldhavebeenperpetratedatRome,Florence,orMilan.ItwasconsideredquiteinitsplaceatNaples.

AladyofmyacquaintancewasstayinginapensionatNaples.Thereresidedatthetime,inthesamepension,aprince--Neapolitan,beitunderstood.Oneday,justbeforesheleft,shebroughtinapacketofkidglovesshehadpurchased,amongthemonepair,straw-coloured.Shelaidthemonthe



table,wentoutfortwominutes,leavingtheprinceintheroomwiththegloves.Onherreturn,theprinceandthestraw-colouredglovesweregone.Shemadeinquiriesofthelandlady,who,whentoldthattheprincehadbeenintheroom,laughedandsaid:"Butofcoursehehasthem.Youshouldneverleaveanythingintheroomunguardedwherethereisaprince."Twodaysafterthedepartureofthislady,thestraw-colouredgloveswereproducedbyhishighnessandpresentedbyhimtoayoungladywhomheadmired,theninthesamepension.

Noevilcomeswithoutacounterbalancinggood.ThedayIwasdetainedinFlorencebythattailor,andthelossofthenighttrainatGenoawerenotimmenseevils.Afuriousgalebrokeoverthecoast,andwhenatseveninthemorningwesteamedoutofGenoa,theMediterraneanwassullen,therainpoureddown,andthemountainswereenvelopedinvapour.Butasweproceededalongthecoasttheweatherimproved,andbeforelongeverycloudwasgone,theskybecameblueasagentian,andtheorangesflamedinthesunshineaswesweptbetweentheorchards.HadIgonebythenoontrainfromFlorenceIshouldhavetravelledthisroadbynight,hadIcaughtthe3.27A.M.trainIshouldhaveseennothingforstormandcloud.And--whataglorious,whatanunrivalledroadthatis!ItwaslikepassingthroughagalleryhungwithRenaissancetapestry,allinfreshnessofcolour.Theseadeepblueandgreenlikeapeacock'sneck,themountainspaleyellow,asshownintapestry,withblueshadows;thesilvery-greyolives,theglossyorangetreeswiththeirfruit--exactlyasintapestry.Surelytheold

weaversofthosewondrouswebsstudiedthiscoastandcopieditintheirlooms.

Ihavesaidthattheseawaslikeapeacock'sneck;butithadabrilliancyaboveeventhat.AsIhavementionedtapestryImaysaythatitresembledasortoftapestrythatisveryrareandcostly,ofwhichIhaveseenasampleinaprivatecollectionatFrankfort,andanotherinthePalazzoBardiniatFlorence.Itconsistsofthethreadsbeingdrawnoverplatesofgoldandsilver.InthepieceatFlorencetheeffectofthesunshiningthroughatreeisthusproducedbygoldleafunderthebroideryoftree-leaves.Silverleafisemployedforwater,withbluesilkdrawninlinesoverit.Sowiththesea.Thereseemedtobesilverburnishedtoitsgreatestpolishbelow,overwhichthewaterwasdrawnasabluelacquer.

AndNice.WhatshallIsayofthatbrightandlaughingcity--withitsshopsofflowers,itsavenuesoftreesthroughwhichrunthestreets,itsgardens,itspinesandcactusandaloewalks?OnlyoneblemishcanIpickoutinNice,andthatisahideousmodernGothicchurch,NotreDame,filledwithdetestablegarishglass,soutterlyfaultyindesign,sofullofblemishofeverysort,thatthebestwishonecouldmakeforthegoodpeopleofNiceisthatthenextearthquakethatvisitstheRivieramayshakethiswretchedstructuretopieces,soastogivethemanopportunityoferectinganotherinitsplacewhichisnotamonstrosity.

TheAvenuedelaGareisplantedwiththeeucalyptus,thathasattainedaconsiderablesize.Itisnotabeautifultree,itsleavesareeveron

thedroop,asthoughthetreewereunhealthyorunhappy,sulkyatbeingtransplantedtoEurope,dissatisfiedwiththeclimate,displeasedwiththesoil,discontentedwithitsassociates.ItstruckmeasverymuchlikeagoodnumberofexcellentandveryusefulsoulswithwhomIamacquainted,whonevertakeacheerfulviewoflife,arealwaysfault-finding,hole-picking,worry-discovering,eminentlygoodintheirplaceasfebrifuges,butnotcalculatedtobrightentheirneighbourhood.

Whatadelightfulwalkisthatonthecliffofthechateau!ThedayIwasatNicewasthe9thofApril.Thecragswererichwithcolour,thecytisus



wavingitsgoldenhair,thepelargoniumblazingscarlet,bedsofwhitestockwaftingfragrance,violetsscramblingovereverysoftbankofdeepearthexhalingfragrance;roses,notmanyinflower,buttheiryoungleavesinmassesofclaret-red;whereveraledgeallowedit,therepansiesofvelvetyblueandblackandbrownhadbeenplanted.InahotsunIclimbedthechateauclifftowherethewater,conveyedtothesummit,dribbledanddropped,orsquirtedandsplashed,nourishingcountlessfrondsoffernandbedsofmoss,andmanyabogplant.Thecedarsandumbrellapinesinthespringsunexhaledtheiraromaticbreath,andthefloweringbirchraineddownitsyellowdustoveronefromitsswayingcatkins.

IseeIhavespokenofthecytisus.Imaybeexcusedmentioningananecdotethatthesightofthisplantprovokesinmymindeveryspring.Ihadagardener--aqueer,cantankerouscreature,whoneversawajoke,evenwhenhemadeone."Please,sir,"hesaidtomewithasolemnface,"I'vebeenrearingaloto'youngcitizensforyou."

"Haveyou?"saidI,withasigh."IfancyI'mrearingamiddlinglotofthemmyself."

"Please,sir,"saidhetomeonanotheroccasion,"thattherelumbagobeterribletryingtoknowwhattodowithit."

"Oh!"saidIwithalacrity,"nothingequalshartshornandoilappliedto

thesmallofthebackwithaflannel.Youhaveawife--"

"Yes,sir."Helookedatmevacantly."Andyet,it'sabeautifulthing."

"Well--yes,whenitattacksone'sdeadlyenemy."

"I'vecutitdown,andtrimmeditout,andtieditup,"saidthegardener.Hemeantthe_Plumbagocapense!_

Thatmanneverwouldallowthathewasbeaten.Myeldestboyonedayheldsomepansiesoverthefumesofammonia,turnedthemgreen,andshowedthemasa_lususnaturae_tothegardener.Hesmiledcontemptuously."Them'sthecolourofbiledcabbage,"saidhe;"Igrewthemverdigrisgreen--bedsof

'em,whenIwaswithSquireCross."

Onedayhesaidtome:"Thenurserymencallthemplantsbigoniasjusttosellthem,Icallthemlittleonias;youshalljustseethemIgrow,thembethetruebigonias,aslargeasthepalmofyourhand."

Itumbled,byhazard,atNiceintoapension,whereIbelieveIsawat _tabled'hote_ascoreoftheugliestwomenIhaveeverhadthetrialofsittingoveragainstinmylongcareer.Ifoundout,inconversationwithaporteratthestationafterwards,thatthispensionwasnotoriousfortheuglywomenwhoputupthere,anditisajokeamongtheporterswhentheyseeoneveryill-favouredarrivebythetrain,thatsheisgoingtobeaninmateoftheHotel----.ThenameIwillnotgive,lestanyofmyfair

readers,inthatspiritofdelightfulperversitythatcharacterisesthesex,shouldgothereandspoilthecreditofthepension.Icouldnotendurethe_tabled'hote_thereformanydays.Anuglywomanis,ormaybe,restfulfortheeyewhenherfaceisinrepose--notwhensheischewingtoughbeeformunchinganapple.Besides,Lentwaspassed.

WhenIwasinRomethereappearedinacomicpaperatthebeginningofLentthepictureofaverystoutlady,whothusaddressedherspouse."Hubby,dear!youhaven'tkissedme.""Can't,love,"hereplies,"_fat_isforbiddeninLent."Uglinesswasuncongenialtomeinradiantlybeautiful



Nice,andinsparklingEaster--soIpackedmyGladstonebagandwentfurther.

ThesnowstilllyingonthecrestsoftheMaritimeAlpsandtheintermediaterangesbrokenintofantasticforms,thelovelyrangeofredporphyryEstereltothesouth,withtheintenselyblueseadrawingathreadofsilveraboutitsbase,togethermadeapictureofincomparableloveliness.

Thesunwassohotthatthehorseshadalreadyassumedtheirsummerhats."Agoodmanismercifultohisbeast,"andthegood-heartedpeasantsoftheRivieraandProvence,thinkingthattheirhorsesmustsufferfromtheburningheatofthesun,provide,themwithstrawhats,verymuchthesamesortofhatsasgirlswear,adornedalsowithribbonsandrosettes,buttosuitthepeculiarityofformationofthehorse'shead,twoholesarecutinthehatthroughwhichtheearsaredrawn.Theeffectiscomicalwhenyouarebeingdriveninacarriagewithapairofhorsesbeforeyouwearingstrawhats,andtheirearsprotruding,oneoneachside,likethehornsinthehelmetsofmediaevalGermanknights.OnelovelyglimpseoftheseaIgotthatIshallneverforget.Theblueseawasinthebackgroundgleaming;againstitstoodabeltofsombrecypresses;beforethecypressesthesilvery,smoke-greytuftsofolive,inagrove;andbeforetheolive,inmid-distance,afieldofrosesinyoungclaret-redfoliage--alandscapeofbeltsofcolourrightmarvellous.

[Illustration:AHorseinaHat.]

ThenAntibes--abluebaywithcastleononehorn,ontheotherthelittletown,itslighthouse,andacoupleofboldtowers.

ItwasatCannesthatPrinceHonoreIV.ofMonacoencounteredNapoleonin1815,ashewasreturningfromParisinhiscarriagetotakepossessionofhisprincipality,thathadbeenrestoredtohimbytheTreatyofParisin1814.

TheGrenadiersoftheImperialGuardstoppedhiscarriage,madetheprincedescend,andconductedhimbeforealittlemanwithclean-cutfeatures,

whomheatonceknewastheEmperor--returnedfromElba.

"Ouallez-vous,Monaco?"askedNapoleonbluntly.

"Sire,"repliedHonoreIV.,"jevaisaladecouvertedemonroyaume."

TheEmperorsmiled.

"Voilaunesinguliererencontre,monsieur,"saidNapoleon."Deuxmajestessansplace;maiscen'estpeut-etrepaslapeinedevousderanger.AvanthuitjoursjeseraiaParis,etjemeverraiforcedevousrenverserdutrone,moncousin.Revenezplutotavecmoi,jevousnommeraisous-prefetdeMonaco,sivousytenezbeaucoup."

"Mercidevosbontes,sire,"repliedtheprinceinsomeconfusion;"maisjetiendraisencoreplusafaireunerestauration,nedut-elledurerquetroisjours."

"Allons!faitesladurertroismois,moncousin,jevousgarderaivotreplacedechancellier,etvousviendriezmerejoindreauxTuileries."

Thetwomonarchsseparatedafterhavingshakenhandsamicably.Thestorywouldbespoiledbytranslation.



TheGrimaldisancientlypossessedmuchmoreextensiveterritoriesthanatpresent.AtCagnes,nearVence,istheirancientchateau,nowconvertedintoahospitalandbarrack,andtheyownedconsiderableproperty,manorsandlordshipsnearCannesandVence.WeshallmeetthemagainasPrincesofLesBaux.

ThepresentreigningfamilyarenotproperlyGrimaldis.Thelastrepresentativewasadaughter,marriedtotheCountofThorignyin1715,who,ontheextinctionofthemalelinein1731,assumedthenameofGrimaldi,andsucceededtotheprincipality.

[Illustration:Lerins.]

Everywhere,forthemeredelightoftheeye,notfromthoughtofanygaingottenoutofit,istheJudastreecoveredwithpinkflowers,standingamongthecoolgreyolives.Hereandthereisamulberryburstingintofresh,green,vividleaf;ineverygardenthepalmsarerustlingtheirleavesinthepleasantair,andareglisteninginthesun.Outatsealiesthelow,dullislandofLerins;but,thoughlowanddull,fullofinterest,astakingtheplacetoProvenceoccupiedbyIonatoScotlandandLindisfarnetoNorthumberland,acradleofChristianity,acradlerockedbythewaves.IcannotdobetterthanquoteMontalembert'swordsonthistopic."Thesailor,thesoldier,orthetravellerwhoproceedsfromthe

roadsteadofToulontosailtowardsItalyandtheEast,passesamongtwoorthreeislands,rockyandarid,surmountedhereandtherebyaslenderclusterofpines.Helooksatthemwithindifference,andavoidsthem.However,oneoftheseislandshasbeenforthesoul,forthemind,forthemoralprogressofhumanity,acentrepurerandmorefertilethananyfamousisleoftheHellenicArchipelago.ItisLerins,formerlyoccupiedbyacity,whichwasalreadyruinedinthetimeofPliny,andwhere,atthecommencementofthefifthcentury,nothingmorewastobeseenthanadesertcoast.In410,amanlandedandremainedthere;hewascalledHonoratus.Descendedfromaconsularrace,educatedandeloquent,butdevotedfromhisyouthtogreatpiety,hedesiredtobemadeamonk.Hisfatherchargedhiseldestbrother,agayandimpetuousyoungman,toturnhimfromhispurpose;but,onthecontrary,itwashewhowonoverhis

brother.Disciplesgatheredroundthem.Thefaceoftheislewaschanged,thedesertbecameagarden.Honoratus,whosefinefaceisdescribedtousasradiantwithasweetandattractivemajesty,openedhereanasylumandaschoolforallsuchaslovedChrist."

Fromthisschoolwentforthdisciples,inspiredwiththespiritofHonoratus,torulethechurchesofArles,Avignon,Lyons,Vienne,Frejus,Valence,Nice,Metz,andmanyothers.Honoratushimself,takenfromhispeacefulisletobeelevatedtothemetropolitanseeofArles,hadforhissuccessor,asAbbotofLerins,andafterwardsasBishopofArles,hispupilandkinsmanS.Hilary,towhomweowetheadmirablebiographyofhismaster.Hilarywascelebratedforhisgracefuleloquence,hisunweariedzeal,histendersympathywithallformsofsuffering,hisascendencyover

acrowd,andbythenumerousconversionswhichheworked.But,indeedLerinswasahivewhenceswarmedforththeteachersandapostlesofSouthernGaul.HencecamethemodestVincentofLerins,thefirstcontroversialistofhistime,whoattheheadofhisgreatestworkinscribedatouchingtestimonyofhisloveforthatpoorlittleislewherehehadspentsomanyyears,andlearnedsomuch.Salvian,also,the"MasterofBishops,"ashewascalled,thoughhimselfonlyapriest,washeldtobethemosteloquentmanofhisday,onlysecondtoS.Augustine.S.EucheriusofLyons,S.LupusofTroyes,whohadmarriedthesisterofS.Hilary,wereotherprelatestrainedinthisholyisle.WhenTroyeswasthreatenedby



AttilaandhisHuns,Lupusboldlywentforthtomeethim."Whoartthou?"askedthebishop."IamAttila,theScourgeofGod,"wasthereply.Theintrepidgentlenessofthebishopdisarmedtheferociousinvader.HeleftTroyeswithoutinjuringit,anddrewbacktotheRhine.AndthisislethroughLupusclaimssomeregardfromanativeofBritain,forLupus,trainedinit,waschosenbytheCouncilofArlesin429tocombatthePelagianheresyinGreatBritain,alongwithS.GermanusofAuxerre.

Intothesamecarriagewithme,atNice,gotapair--ayoungcouple;he,withanamiablebutweakface;sheheavyfeatured,heronlycharmhereyes.Therehadbeenabreezebetweenthepair,evidently,beforetheytooktheirplaces,andshewassulky.He,poorfool,endeavouredbyeverymeanstoallayherruffledtemper,alwaysineffectually.HepulledouthisGuideJoannot,andendeavouredtointerestherintheplaceswepassed,theirhistory,theirantiquities;invain,shesatscowling,withpursedlips.HecalledherattentiontotheredporphyrycliffsofEsterelwithpurpleshadowsintheirhollows,tothebluebaysopeningbetweentheirredhorns--alltonopurpose,shewouldnotlookoutatthewindow.Heproducedaboxofjujubes,andofferedheronebetweenhisthumbandforefinger.Sherefusedit,butthrustherfingersintotheboxandextractedoneforherself.Thensheleanedbackinthecarriage,drewherhatoverherface,andexposedtoviewonlyachinandamoleunderit,thatmovedupanddownasshesuckedherjujube.

Next,thefeeble,amoroushusband,endeavouredtogetholdofherhand.Shesnatcheditawayvixenishly.Hecticspotsformedonhischeeks,andperspirationstoodingreatdropsonhisbrow.Thiswasclearlythefirstrufflehehadexperiencedonthehymenealsea.HegotoutofthecarriageatCannes,andhungaboutthebuffettilltheextrememoment,hopingtobetrayherintotokensofuneasinesslestheshouldmissthetrain.Asitwas,atthefinalmomentheswunghimselfintoanothercarriage.Shethrustherhatalittleononeside,protrudedaneyetoseewhatbecameofhim,thencovereditoncemore.Hegotinatthenextstation,breathless,inpretendedagitation.Hehadnearlylosthisplace--hewasallbutleftbehind.Hadhebeensoleft,whatwouldshehavedone?Shevouchsafednoreply.Tired,however,oflookingintothecrownofherhat,shenowremoveditandplaceditonherlap.Thefacewasstillsullen,withthe

jowlhangingdown,thecoarselipssetindefiance,andanuglyflickerintheeyes.Nowthehectic-cheekedhusbandbecameboisterousinmerryconversationwithothertravellersnearhim,butalwayswithaneyerevertingatperiodstohiswife,whoselipsretainedacontemptuouscurl.Thenhesulkedinhisturn,foldedhisarms,thrustforthhisfeetundertheseatopposite,andlookedgloomilyintothespacebetweenthem.Thereatshebegantohumanairfrom"LaTraviata,"whensuddenlythesituationwasaltered.BysomemarvellousinstinctshediscoveredthatIhadbeenobservingthelittleplay;thecomedy_adeux_,andhadmademycommentsthereon--notinherfavour.

Instantlytheexpressionofhercountenancechanged.Sheturnedtoherhusband."Gustave!"saidshe,"Jesouffre,"andshelaidherheadonhis

shoulder.Aflashinhisface,fullofsurpriseslidingintoecstasy.Hecouldnotunderstandthissuddenchangeinherdisposition,andIamquitesureshenevergavehimthekey.

IleftthecarriageatFrejus,andatpartingcaughthereye.Shelaughed,sodidI.Weunderstoodeachother.Now,asithappened,atNice,whenIwasseekingacarriage,Ienteredonewherewerealadyandanelderlygentleman.

AtthefirstglanceIrecogniseda"MilordAnglais,"theladywashis



daughter.AtthesamemomentthatIsaidtomyself,"Thiscarriagewillneverdoforme,"theladyaddressedme,"Monsieur!cevoitooreestreserveeanoosdoox."

IfIhadgonetoFrejuswiththem,Ishouldhavemissedthatlittleepisodeoftheyoungmarriedcoupleandthatwouldhavegrievedme,andthereconciliationwouldnothavebeenbroughtaboutbeforeMarseilles.Oh,howgratefulIwastofate,thattheladyhadsaid,"Monsieur!cevoitooreestreserveeanoosdoox."

CHAPTERIII.

FREJUS.

ThefreedmanofPliny--ForumJulii--ThePortofAgay--ThePortofFrejus--Romancastle--Aqueduct--ThelanternofAugustus--Thecathedral--Cloisters--Boyanddolphin--StorytoldbyPliny--The_ChainedesMaures_--Desaugiers--DineswiththeporkbutchersofParis--Sieyes--_Sansphrase_--Agricola--Hisdiscoveries.

Itwasstrange.ThefirstpersonIthoughtof,onarrivingatFrejus,wasnotJuliusCaesarthefounderofthisoldport--no,norAgricola,anativeofFrejus,whoissoassociatedwithBritishhistory,especiallywithScottish--no!itwasPliny'ssickfreedman,aboutwhomthatpolishedoratorwroteinhisnineteenthletter,inBookV.ofhiscollectedepistles.PlinywasanativeofComo,hehadtwovillasonthelake.Hewasakindly,honourable,somewhatbumptiousman--butwhatgreattalkersthinksmallmatterofthemselves?Hehadaslave,aGreek,namedZosimus,ofwhomhewritestohisfriendPaulinus,whohadanestateatFrejus:"Heisapersonofgreatworth,diligentinhisservices,andwellskilledinliterature;buthischieftalentisthatofacomedian.Hepronounceswithgreatjudgment,propriety,andgracefulness;hehasaverygoodhandtooupon

thelyre,andperformswithmoreskillthanisnecessaryforoneofhisprofession.TothisImustadd,hereadshistory,oratory,andpoetry.Heisendearedtomebytiesoflongaffection,nowheightenedbythedangerinwhichheis."

PlinyhadgivenZosimushisliberty,butZosimusremainedattachedtohisserviceasfreedman.Someyearsbefore,thisaccomplishedslavehadoverstrainedhisvoice,andbeguntospitblood.ThereuponPlinysenthimtoEgypt,whereinthedryairheseemedbetter,andafterawhileZosimusreturnedtohismaster,apparentlycompletelyrestored.Plinygoeson,inhisletter:"Havingexertedhimselfagainbeyondhisstrength,therewasareturnofhisformermaladyandaspittingofblood.Forthisreason,IintendtosendhimtoyourfarmatForumJulii(Frejus),havingoftenheard

youmentiontheexceedingfineairthere,andrecommendthemilkofthatplaceasverysalutaryindisordersofthisnature.Ibegyouwillgivedirectionstoyourpeopletoreceivehimintoyourhouse,andtosupplyhimwithwhatheshallhaveoccasionfor:whichwillnotbemuch;forheissotemperateasnotonlytoabstainfromdelicacies,buteventodenyhimselfthenecessarieshisillhealthrequires.Ishallsupplyhimwithallthatisneedfulforhisjourney.Farewell."

Now,onreachingFrejusonabalmydayinApril,whentheairwassoftasbutter-milk,andthesunwashot,notscorching,mythoughtswentatonce



topoorZosimus,withhishackingcough,hisdelicatecomplexion,comeheretoinhalethesoftairanddrinkthewarmmilk.AndIthoughtofhimthemorefromcertainexperiencesofmyownrelativetoComo.IwenttothatcityinJanuaryfromEngland,thinkingthatitlayinawarmnook,andthatthereImightbaskforafewweeks,whenrecoveringfromanattackofbronchitis,tillIwasabletogofurthersouth.

IwentintoanhotelwhereIhadstayedinsummerandbeencomfortable;but--oh!--nevershallIforgetthehorrorsofthathotelinJanuary!Iwasthesolepersonstayinginit.Therewasnobedroomthathadinitastove.Inthe_salle-a-manger_thefirewaslightedforhalf-an-houratnineinthemorning,thenletoutandnotrekindledthroughtheday.Thefountaininthesquarewasfrozen.AnicywinddescendedfromtheAlps.Mybedroomwasatomb;brick-floored,stonevaulted.Mybedmeasuredtwofeetacross,andthesheetandcrimson_duvet_weresonicelyadjustedasexactlytofitthebed,whenunoccupied.WhenIlayinthebed,that_duvet_wasbalancedlikealoganstoneontheridgeofmybodyshiveringunderit,anditoscillatedasIshivered.Thenitslidgentlytothefloor,andleftmewithachillanddamplinensheetoverme,thethermometerbeingbelowzero,andI--afflictedwithacough.

NextmorningIfled--fledtoMilan--wasstabbedtherebytheTramontana,fellill,escapedtoGenoa,andthererecovered.

Now,perhaps,thereaderwillunderstandhowitwasthatnaturally,andatonce,mymindturnedtopoorZosimus,asIenteredFrejus.Hisdustislaidthere--Idoubtnot.Hehadwanderedthere--someeighteenhundredyearsago,and,likeme,hadinhaledthesweetscentofthefloweringbeans,lookedontheEsterelchainglowingasifred-hotinthesunshine,andhadentertained,likeme,kindly,affectionatethoughtsofthatsomewhatpedantic,conceited,buteminentlyworthyCaiusPliniusCaeciliusSecundus.

AlthoughJuliusCaesarissaidtohaveformedtheportatForumJulii,andtohavegiventheplacehisname,itisprobablethattherewasasettlementthereearlier.He,howeverraiseditintoconsiderationbytheconstructionoftheharbour.Theportistherestill,withinitsmoles,andguardedbytwocastlesonheightsaboveit,but--alasforthewellbeingof

Frejus,theharbourisfilledwithsandandsoilbroughtdownbytheriverArgensandwashedinbythewaves,andisnowalevelmeadow,everyportionbelongingtoafarmercutofffromanotherportionbyaditch,inwhichspringtherushesandcroakthefrogs.Augustusenlargedtheport,andafterthedecisivebattleofActium(B.C.31)sentthitherthegalleyscapturedfromAnthony.Theseaisnowtwomilesdistant.

ThemistakeofmakingportsatthemouthsofriverswasoneconstantlymadebytheRomans.TheGreeksknewbetter--Marseilleshasnotbeenchoked.

Hardby,atAgay,isaperfectnaturalharbour.Theredporphyrymountainsriseinfantasticshapesaboveit,andplungeinabruptcragsintothedeepbluewater.Itisalittleharbourthatcallsout"Comeandrestinmefrom

everywind."Nowalighthousehasbeenerectedattheextremityofoneofthenaturalmolesofrock,acoastguardestablishmentcrownstheheights,twoorthreefishermen'scottagesnestleinthelapofthebay--thatisall.

OnthesouthoftheportofFrejusisanoldcastle.Theremusthaveexistedthereoriginallyanoduleofrock,butoutofthisaplatformhasbeenformedartificiallyofearthgatheredfromtheport,andthisplatformwasconvertedinRomantimesintoafort.Ononesidemaybeseenacuriouscontrivanceforresistingtheoutwardpressureoftheearthheapedup



within.Thebasementwallhasnotbuttressesthrustforth,butconsistsofaseriesofsemicircularconcavedepressionsinitsface.InMediaevaltimesastrongcastlewithcirculartowerswaserectedontheancientbasement,thatalsoisnowinruins,theledgeswheretheoldRomanwallendedandtheMediaevalwallsprangathalfthethicknessoftheformerwere,whenIsawthem,densewithwhiteirises.

[Illustration:AqueductofFrejus.]

FrejuswassuppliedinRomantimeswithanaqueduct,thearchesofwhich,brokenandruinous,stillstretchacrosstheplain,andweredestinedtoconveyintothetownthewatersoftheSiagnole,fromadistanceofaboutfiftymiles.Thearcadeisaboutforty-fivefeethigh.

FollowingapaththatleadsalongtheancientmoleonereachesaquadrangulartowerofRomanmasonrywithastoneconicalroof,whichgoesbythenameoftheLanternofAugustus,andissupposedtohaveservedaslighthouseattheentranceoftheharbour,buttheheightistooinsignificantforthispurpose,itisnotoverthirty-fivefeet,andthereisnoindicationofanycontrivancewherebyitcouldhavebeenutilisedforthepurposeofapharos.IntheTorloniaMuseumatRomeisabas-reliefrepresentingtheportofOstia,withitspharos;thatisastructureofseveralstages,eachrecedingasitissuperposedontheother,andthetopmostsustainstheever-burningfire--quiteadifferentsortofbuilding

fromthistoweratFrejus.

[Illustration:LanternofAugustus.]

Frejusisacathedralcity,thoughnumberingonly3,500inhabitants,butitisanancientsee,datingfromabout374,whenitwasanimportantmaritimeplace.ItsfortuneshadgonedownintheMiddleAges,andthecitizensandprelateswereneverinapositiontobuildmuchofacathedral.Thepresentchurchisoftheeleventhcentury,bothsmallandplain.ItcontainslittleofinterestsaveafinepaintingongoldgroundofS.Margaretandothersaints,broughtfromtheancientMonasteryofLerins.Theorgangalleryissupportedongranitepillars,Classic,foundamongtheruinsoftheamphitheatre.Thebaptisteryissurroundedbyeightporphyrycolumnswith

Corinthiancapitalstakenfromapagantemple.

Thecarveddoorsofthecathedraldeservetobeseen,theyareofrichRenaissancework.Inthenorthaisleofthecathedraltothewestisthetomboftwobishopsoftheseventeenthcentury,BartholomewandPeterdeCamelin,kneeling;andattheeastendaretwoalabastermonumentsofbishopsthreecenturiesearlier.ThecloistersareoftheusualProvencaltype,thearcaderestingondoublecolumns,butwallshavebeenerectedblockingupthespaces,andtheinterioryardisturnedintothebishop'sfowl-house.

But--isnotthatsufficient?Iamnotwritingaguidebook;andIenterintothesedetailsheresolelybecausetheguidebookspassoverthe

cathedralveryslightingly,andconcernthemselveschieflywiththeRomanantiquities.Oftheselatter,besideswhatIhavementioned,thereisthePorteDoree,onearcadeonlyofwhatwasformerlyanobleporticofacingtheharbour;alsoafineamphitheatre,nowtraversedbyahighway,nothoweverasperfectasthoseofNimesandArles.Fragmentsalsoremainoftheancienttheatre,buttheyareunimportant.

HardbytheHoteldeVilleisabeautifulredporphyryfigureofaboyandadolphinwhichonewouldhavetakentohavebeenRenaissancework,butthattheRenaissanceartistswouldhardlyhavetakenthepainstosculpture



suchintractablematerialasporphyryforapettytownofthesizeofFrejus.ThegrouprecallsthatveryoddstorytoldbyPlinyinoneofhisletters,which,asitmaynotbefamiliartomanyofmyreaders,Iwillventureheretorepeat.Hesaysthatthestory"wasrelatedtohimattablebyapersonofunsuspectedveracity."AtHippo,inAfrica,whentheboyswereplayinginthelakethatcommunicateswiththesea,andtheladswerecontendingtogetherwhichcouldswimfurthest,oneboyfoundadolphinplayabouthimasheswam,andheventuredtoclimbonthebackofthefish.Thedolphinwasnotalarmed,butconveyedthelittlefellowonhisbacktotheshore.Thefameofthisremarkableeventspreadthroughthetown,andcrowdscamedowntothewater'sedgetoseetheboyandaskhimquestions.Nextdayhewentintothewateragain,andoncemorethedolphinappeared,playedroundhim,andagaintookhimonhisback.Thishappenedseveraltimes,andthecircumstancewasbruitedthroughouttheneighbourhood,sothatgreatnumbersofpeoplecameinfromthecountrysidetoseethefishplayinthewaterwiththechildren,andcarrythemonitsback.Atlasttheauthoritiesofthetown,annoyedattheconcourseofthecurious,destroyedtheplayfuldolphin,abitofbarbaritythatexcitesPliny'swrath.

Tothesouth-westofFrejusliestheChainedesMaures,theoutlineofwhichisbynomeanssoboldasthatoftheporphyryEsterel,butthemountainsriseinsweepinglinesfromabroadandfertileplaincoveredandsilveredwitholives,growingoutofrichredsoil,liketheoldred

sandstoneofDevonshire.Theredsandstonerocksthroughwhichthelinepassesareploughedwithrains.OntherightappearsthewonderfullypicturesquelittletownofLaPauline,withanextensiveruinedcastle,andthewallsandtowersofthetownintolerablecondition.AboveitrisesastatelypeakcappedwiththewhitelimestonethatformsthemountainsaboutToulonandMarseilles,andhavingalltheappearanceofaflakeofsnow.

WhenwereachthebasinbetweenAubaineandCamp-Majorwearesurroundedbythesebarrenwhiteranges,sowhitethattheylookasifamillerhadshakenhisflour-bagoverthem.

ButIhavenotquitedonewithFrejusyet.IfearthereaderwillthinkIhavegivenhimadullchapterofantiquarianandhistoricaldetail,so

Iwillhereaddananecdote,tospiceit,concerningaworthyofFrejus,Desaugiers,oneoftheliveliestofFrenchpoets.HewasbornatFrejusin1772.Onedayhewasinvitedtopresideattheannualbanquetofthepork-butchers.Atdesserteveryonepresentwasexpectedtopronounceanepigramorsingasong;andwhentheturncametoDesaugiers,herose,clearedhisthroat,lookedaroundwithatwinkleinhiseye,andthunderedforth"DesCochons,desCochons."

Thepork-butchersbridledup,grewredaboutthecheeksandtemples,believingthataninsultwasintended,whenDesaugiersproceededwithhissong:--

"Decochonslestraitsdelasatire."

SieyeswasanothernativeofFrejus,thatrenegadepriest,towhomisattributedtheferocioussaying,whencalledontogivehisvoteonthecondemnationofLouisXVI.,"Lamort--sansphrases."SomefewyearsaftertheDirectorysentSieyesasambassadortoBerlin.HeinvitedaprinceofthebloodroyalofPrussiatodineattheembassywithhim;buttheprincetooktheinvitationandscoredacrossithisanswer:--

"Non--sansphrases."



NapoleonasnationalrecompensetoSieyesfortheserviceshehadrenderedtoFrance,andtohimselfpersonally,gavehimtheestateofCrosne.Thisgaverisetotheepigram--

"BonaparteaSieyesafaitpresentdeCrosne,SieyesaBonaparteafaitpresentdutrone."

Butafterall,itischieflyasthebirthplaceofAgricola,thattruemodelofaRomansoldierofthebestdescription,thatFrejusinterestsusmost.Hisfather,JuliusGraecinus,hadfallenavictimtoCaligula,becauseherefusedtoundertaketheprosecutionofamantheEmperorwasdeterminedtodestroy,andthereissomereasontosuspectthatAgricolahimselfwassacrificedtothesuspicionsandenvyofDomitian.Likemostgoodandhonourablemen,hehadagoodmother,whosevirtuesTacitusrecords.

WhenAgricolawasproconsulofBritain,hisrulewasmild,andhetookpainstowintheconfidenceoftheprovincials.HeitwaswhodrewachainoffortsfromseatoseabetweentheTyneandSolway,toprotectthereclaimedsubjectsofthesouthernvalleysfromtheuntamedbarbarianswhorovedtheCheviotsandthePentlands.Hewasnotmerelyaconqueror,butanexploreranddiscoverer,inScotland.InA.D.83hepassedbeyondtheFrithandfoughtagreatbattlewiththeCaledoniansnearStirling.TheRomanentrenchmentsstillremaininginFifeandAnguswerethrownupbyhim.In84hefoughtanotherbattleontheGrampians,andsenthisfleetto

circumnavigateBritain.TheRomanvesselsatalleventsforthefirsttimeenteredthePentlandFrith;examinedtheOrkneyislands,andperhapsgainedaglimpseoftheShetlands.

ItwasinterestingtotreadthesoilwherethechildhoodwaspassedofamanwholeftsuchpermanentmarksinBritain,andtowhomweareindebtedforourfirstknowledgeofScotland.

CHAPTERIV.

MARSEILLES.

ThethreeislandsPhoenice,Phila,Iturium--MarseillesfirstaPhoeniciancolony--ThetariffoffeesexactedbythepriestsofBaal--ThearrivaloftheIonians--ThelegendofProtisandGyptis--SecondcolonyofIonians--ThevoyagesofPytheasandEuthymenes--CaptureofMarseillesbyTrebonius--PositionoftheGreekcity--TheAcropolis--Greekinscriptions--Theladywhonever"jawed"herhusband--Thetombofthesailor-boy--HoteldesNegociants--Menu--EntryofthePresidentoftheRepublic--EntryofFrancisI.--ThechurchofS.Vincent--TheCathedral--NotreDamedelaGarde--TheabbeyofS.Victor--Catacombs--ThefableofS.Lazarus.

ThetravellerapproachingMarseillesfromtheseaobservesthreeisletsofbarelimestonerockthatareapparentlyaprolongationofthatrockypromontorynowcrownedbythefortressofS.Nicolas,andthatactasanaturalbreakwateragainstwaveandstormfromtheS.E.TheygobythenamesofPomegue,Ratonneau,andChateaud'If.ButtheclassicgeographerscalledthegrouptheLittleStoechades,andnamedtheseisletsPhoenice,Phila,andIturium;andthesethreeappellationsgiveusinacompactformthestoryofancientMarseilles,foundedbythePhoenicians,refoundedby



theGreeks,andthenmadeadependencyundertheRomanempire.

ThatMarseilleswasaPhoeniciancolonybeforethePhoceanssettledthereisshownbythemonumentsthathavebeenexhumedfromthefoundationsofthemodernhouses,andarenowcollectedinthemuseum.TherearesomecuriousimagesofMelkarthandMelita,theHerculesandVenusoftheseAsiatictraders,knownalsotousthroughtheBibleasBaalandAshtaroth.ButmostcuriousofallisalongPhoeniciantableofchargesmadebythepriestsofBaalforthevarioussacrificesandoblationsofferedbythepeople.Thistariffofchargeswasfoundin1845.Itconsistsoftwenty-onelines,andbegins:--

"TheTempleofBaal.--ThisistheregulationrelativetothedueslegallyestablishedbyItalis-Baal,thesuffete,sonofBod-tanith,sonofBod-Milcarth,andbyItalis-Baal.

"Foranentireox,theordinarysacrifice,thepriestsaretoreceivetenshekels.Atthesacrifice,inaddition,threehundredmishekelsofflesh.

"Item.Fortheordinarysacrifice,ofcerealsandflourofwheat,alsothehide,theentrails,andthefeetofthevictim.Alltherestofthefleshgoestothemasterofthesacrifice."

Soitcontinuestoregulatethefeesforacalf,aram,abird;alsofor

cakes,andforofferingsmadebylepersandbycommonpeople.Thetableoffeesisextremelycuriousandis,Ibelieve,unique.

ThePhoeniciancolonyatMarseilleswasprobablyindeclinewhen,inB.C.599,aGreekfleetlefttheportofPhocaea,oneofthetwelveIoniancitiesofAsiaMinor,seekingnewhomesintheWest.ThecolonywasunderthecommandofanadventurernamedProtis.AttractedbytheBayofMarseilles,andthebasinsurroundedbyhillsthatlayinitslap,theGreekcolonydisembarked.

Andnowforalegend.

Thefirstmeasuretakenbythenewarrivalswastosendadeputationtothe

KingoftheSegobrigae,aKelticraceoccupyingwhatisnowcalledProvence.ThekingwasatArles,whichwashiscapital;hisnamewasNannos.ByahappycoincidencetheembassyarrivedonthedayuponwhichNannoshadassembledthewarriorsofhistribe,forhisdaughter,Gyptis,tochooseahusbandamongthem.

ThearrivaloftheyoungGreek,Protis,inthemidstofthisbanquetwasaveritable_coup-de-theatre_;hetookhisplaceattheboard.Hisnaturalgrace,hiseasyandpolishedmanners,thenoblenessandeleganceofhispersonandfeatures,contrastedstrangelywiththesavageryandcoarsenessoftheGaulishwarriors.

Freetochoosewhomshewould,Gyptisrosefromthetable,filledacup,

andmadethecircuitoftheboard.Everyeyewasfixedonher;hewastobeherchoicetowhomsheofferedthebowl.Shedidnothesitateforamoment,shewenttotheGreekstrangerandextendedittohim.Protisputthegoblettohislips,andthealliancewasconcluded.

TheexampleofGyptiswasfollowedbysomeofhermaidens.TheGaulsagreedtoreceivetheGreeks,andsufferthemtocolonisethebasinofMarseilles.

ButthechiefswhohadbeensetasidebythefairGyptisboreagrudgeagainstthenew-comers.Thegrowingprosperityandrapiddevelopmentof



thenewsettlementarousedtheirjealousy,whichwasprobablyaugmentedbythedefectionofsomeoftheirwivesanddaughters.ProfitingbytheFeastofFlorainMay,theypresentedthemselvesatthegatesofMarseillesinattendanceonsomewaggonsladenwithgreenboughs,underwhichweretheirarmsconcealed.Butlove,thathadfoundedtheIoniancolony,wasdestinedtosaveit.AyoungGaulishwomanrevealedtheplottoherHelleniclover,andtheGreekslaidtheirhandsonthearmsthatweretohavebeenemployedagainstthem,turnedthemagainsttheintrusiveGauls,andmassacredthemtoaman.

Buthavingthussavedthemselvesfromonedangertheyfeltthattheyhadincurredanother.TheyhadprovokedthedeadlyanimosityofthewholetribeoftheSegobrigae.TheythereforeappealedtotheircountrymeninIoniatocometotheiraid.Theappealmetwithareadyresponse,asecondfleetofcolonistsarrived.Marseilleswasencompassedwithwallsonthelandside,andthusmadesecureagainsttheassaultsofundisciplinedbarbarians.

SuchisthegracefullegendoftheoriginofMarseilles.Itisonlysofarhistoricalthatitgivesusinpoeticandromanticformthemainfacts,thatthefirstcolonysettledatMarseilleswithoutopposition,thatafterawhileitgotembroiledwiththeGaulishtribesoftheneighbourhood,andthatasecondIoniancolonycametostrengthenthefirst.ButthissecondcolonyarrivedB.C.542,fifty-sevenyearsafterthefirst,andwasduetothetakingofPhocaeabytheMedesandPersians.

AsaGreekmercantilecolonyMarseillesflourished,andsentforthothercolonies,thatformedsettlementsalongtheLiguriancoast,asaLiteralcrownfromAmpuriasandRhodeinCataloniatotheconfinesofEtruria.Free,rich,protectedbytheRomanlegions,theseGreeksettlementscultivatedtheartsandscienceswithardour,aswellascarryingonthetradeoftheMediterranean.

IntheyearB.C.350twoofhermostillustriouscitizens,PytheasandEuthymenes,exploredthenorthernandsouthernAtlantic.Pytheaswaschargedtomakeavoyageofdiscoverytowardsthenorth.HecoastedSpain,Portugal,Aquitania,Brittany,discoveredGreatBritain,coastedit,andreachedThule,whichsomehavesupposedtobeIceland,butothersthe

OrkneyIsles.InasecondvoyagehepenetratedtheBalticbytheCattegatandSound,andreachedthemouthsoftheDwinaortheVistula.Onhisreturnhecomposedtwoworks,recordsofhisdiscoveries,ofwhichpreciousfragmentshavebeenpreservedbyPlinyandStrabo.Thankstohislabours,Marseilleswasthefirsttownwhoselatitudewasdeterminedwithsomeprecision.

Aboutthesametime,Euthymeneswascommissionedtomakeexplorationsintheoppositedirection.Hesailedsouth-west,tracedthewesterncoastofAfrica,andpenetratedthemouthsoftheSenegal,whencehebroughtbackgolddust.

Marseilleswastaken,B.C.49,byTrebonius,thelieutenantofJulius

Caesar.Twonavalbattlesruinedherfleet;and,butfortheclemencyofCaesar,thedoomofthecitywouldhavebeensealed.ShehadenthusiasticallytakenthepartofPompey,andhadresistedCaesarwithunusualdetermination.Butheappreciatedtheimportanceofthecolonyandthemercantileenergyofherinhabitants,andhedidnotlayhishandinretributiontooseverelyuponher.

[Illustration:AncientMassilia.]

TheoldGreekcityofMassiliaoccupiedthepromontorywhichisstillold



Marseilles,clusteredontheButteSt.LaurentandButtedesMoulins,wherewastheAcropolis,withthetemplesofApolloandDiana,andtheButtedesCannes.Theharbourwasthenaturalfiord,whichisnowtheVieuxport;andthemodernsplendidstreetCanebiererunsalongthesiteoftheoldshipbuilding-docksoftheGreeks.Herewasfoundafewyearsagoanancientgalleywithkeelandribsofcedar,andcoinsinherofthedateofJuliusCaesar.Sheisnowinthemuseum.Tothesouthoftheoldportwasamarsh;therectangularcanalandtheBassinduCarenagemarkthepositionofthismarsh,nowbuiltover--amarshthatreachedtothebaseofthelimestonehillsthatrisetothepeaknowoccupiedbyNotreDamedelaGarde.

TheoldGreekwallsofMassiliaraninasweepalongwhereisnowtheBoulevarddesDames,Rued'Aix,andreachedtheVieuxportattheBourse.

ConsideringtheimportanceoftheGreekcity,itswealthandsplendour,itissurprisingtofindnowhereinMarseillesanyruinsofitsancientfounders.ButMarseilleshastraversedeveryhistoricperiod,inthemidstofstorm;andafteravoyageofthreethousandyearsthroughhistory,shehasbeenplunderedofeveryfragmentofherancienttreasures.InRometheColosseumandthetombofAugustuswererobbedoftheirmaterialsfortheconstructionofhouses;andinMarseilleseverystoneofherancienttemplesandacropolishavebeenappropriatedforbaserpurposes.Shehaspassedthroughtwentyfires,andasmanysieges.Taken,sacked,decimated,shehasbeenrebuiltoverandoveragain,alwayshurriedly,consequently

alwayswithmaterialtakenwherenearestathand,withoutrespectforhermonumentsandhistoricrecollections.ThedisturbedsoilofMarseillesisnotevenaheapofruins,foreverystonefoundinthesoilhasbeenutilisedasmaterialforconstruction.NeverthelesssometracesoftheGreekfoundersremaininthebeautifulcoinsofthecolony,andininscriptionsthathavebeenpickedoutofthewallsorfoundationsofmediaevalhouses.Thecoins,stampedwithclassicbeauty,arewell-knowntonumismatists.

Wehavespacetonoticeonlyoneortwoinscriptions.OneisthesignofAthenades,sonofDioscorides,professorofLatingrammar,probablysetuptwothousandyearsagooverhisdoor;anotherisanoticeofayounglad,Cleudemos,sonofDionysius,havinggainedaprize.AcuriousGreek

inscriptionisfoundatCarpentras,acolonyfromMarseilles,thatillustratesthemannerinwhichforeignreligionsgotmixedupwiththosethatwerepropertotheGreeks.

"BlessedbeThebe,daughterofThelhui,ladenwithoblationsfortheGodOsiris--sheneverjawedherhusband--shewasblamelessintheeyesofOsiris,andreceiveshisbenediction."

Trulysuchawifedeservedthatherconducttowardsherhusbandshouldbecommemoratedthroughagesuponages,andwemaythankgoodfortunethatithaspreservedtousthenameofthisincomparablelady.

AsIamonthesubjectofGreekinscriptions,Imayquotethefollowing

touchingone,thathasbeenfoundbuiltintothewallofahouseatAix.

"Onthebanks,beatenbythewaves,ayouthappealstothee,voyager!I,belovedbyGod,amnomoresubjecttothedominationofDeath.Ipassedmylifesailingonthesea,myselfasailor,liketotheyouthfulgods,theAmyclaeans,savioursofsailors,freefromtheyokeofmatrimony.Hereinmytomb,whichIowetothepietyofmymasters,Irestshelteredfromallmaladies,freefromtoil,fromcares,frompains;whereasinlife,allthesewoesfallonourgrossenvelopesofmatter.Thedead,ontheotherhand,aredividedintotwoclasses,ofwhichonereturnstotheearth,



whereastheotherrisestojointhedancewiththecelestialchoirs;anditistothislatterclassthatIbelong,havinghadthegoodfortunetorangemyselfunderthebannersoftheDivinity."

Clearlythiswasthetombofayoungsailor-boy,anativeofAix,whohadservedinamerchantvesselofMarseilles.Thereissomethinggracefulandpatheticinthemonument.

Butenoughofthepast.Nowforthepresent,andinconsideringthepresentletusattendtothatwhichfeedsandbuildsupthatgrossenvelopeofmattertheyoungGreeksailorhadlaidaside.

AtMarseillesIputupattheHoteldesNegociants,intheCoursBelzunce.LetmeobservethatIdonotseethefunofgoingtohotelsofthefirstclass.Notonlyisone'sexpensedoubled,butoneisthrownamongEnglishandAmericantravellers,andseesnothingwhateverofthepeopleinwhosecountryoneistravelling.Now,hereinthiscommercialinn,Ihadfordinnerthefollowingdishes,whichIamquitesureIshouldnothavehadintheGrandHoteldeNoailles,whereadinnerissixfrancs,whereasatmyinnIpaidjusthalf.Imustalsoobservethatthedinnerswereabundantandexcellent,butamongthedishesweresomethatwerepeculiartotheProvencalcuisine,forinstance:--

Breadslicessoppedinsaffron,withfish,garnishedwithsmallcrabs,to

bechewedup,shellandall.

Artichokes,raw,withoilandvinegar.

Orangeswithpepperandsalt.

Onthetablewereglassjugswithtar-water,andIobservedthatoverhalfthosepresentdranktheirwinedilutedwiththistar-water.

OnedayinsummerIwasattable-d'hoteinFrancewhenIsawaveryfinemelononthetable.SaidI,inmyheartofhearts,"I'llhavesomeofyouby-and-by!"But,tomyconsternation,themelonwastakenroundwithstewedcongereel,andeatenwithsaltandpepper.Icouldnotsummonupcourage

totrythemixture,andthewholemelonwasconsumedbeforethenextcoursecameon.

IwasatMarseilleswhenM.Carnot,thePresidentoftheRepublicvisitedit,April16th.Greateffortsweremadetogivehimasplendidreception.Venetianmastsweresetup,stringsoffairylampsweresuspendedbetweenthem,andtricolourswerehungasbannerstothemasts,orgroupedtogetherintrophies.Butalas!Nosoonerwereallpreparationsmade,thanafuriousgalebrokeoverthecoast,thevenetianmastsswayedinthewindandwereupsetorthrownoutoftheperpendicular,thelittlelampsjingledagainsteachotherandwerebroken,suchaswerenotshiveredwerefilledwithrain,thebannerswerelashedwiththebrokenwiresandtorntoshreds,andwhenM.Carnotarrived,inapouringrain,itwasamidstaverywreckageof

festivalpreparations,andhewasreceivedbyacrowdofumbrellas.Undersuchcircumstancesenthusiasmwasdampedandejaculationsofwelcomeweremuffled.ThePresidentoccupiedanopenlandau,anddrovealongtheboulevardswithoutumbrellaorwaterproof,bowingtorightandleftinaslashingrain.Adeputationofflowerwomenpresentedhimwithasoddenbouquet,bythehandofadrippinglittlegirlinwhitethatclungtoherasabathinggown.ThePresidentinsistedonthemaidbeingliftedtohimintothecarriage,wherehehuggedandkissedher,whilstthemoistureranoutofhergarmentslikeasqueezedsponge,andthisdemonstrationprovokedsomedampcheers.



IboughtHenriRochefort'spapernextday,toseewhathiscorrespondenthadtosayaboutthevisit.Somepassagesfromitaretooracynottobequoted.

"Ilfaisaituntempsanepasmettreunministredehors,lorsqueletrainpresidentielestarriveengare,etledefilealadetrempeetaitpitieuxavoirdans_legargouillementetlatranssudationdecedegorgementcataractal_.SadiCarnotavaitdonnel'ordredelaissersonlandaudecouvert,afinderecevoirlesovationsenthousiastesdesparapluies.

"Bref,laPresidenceestarriveealaprefecture_trempeecommeunesoupeal'oignonetfortementdessalee_."

VerilythereisnotongueliketheFrenchforsayingnastythingsinanastyway.

Idonotknowwhetheritisfairforonetopassanopiniononamanfromasightofhisfaceoverrunwithrain-water,andwithhisnoseactinglikeashootfromaroof;butcertainlytheimpressionproducedonmebyM.SadiCarnotwasthathisfeatureswerewooden,andthathewasbutaveryordinaryman--intellectually.Ipassthisopinionwithhesitation.Whendriedpossiblythesparksofgeniusmaybediscoveredandmayflareup;theywereallbutextinguishedinthedownpourwhenIsawhim.

Thatcheerfulking,ReneofAnjouandProvence,paidavisittoMarseillesin1437,andmadehisroyalentryonSunday,December15th.Hewasdelightedwiththereceptionaccordedhim,andinagushofkindlyfeelingpromisedtomakeMarseilleshisheadquarters.Butheforgothispromise,orcircumstanceswereagainsthiskeepingit.HeneverrevisitedMarseilles.OnJanuary22,1516,FrancisI.enteredthetownandwasreceivedbychildrencarryingbannersandgarlands,andtroupesofyounggirlsinwhite,thenfollowedarchers,arquebusiers,theconsuls,andtheclergybearingtherelicsofS.LazarusandS.Victor.Atheatrewaserectedateverystreetcorner,onwhichwerepresentedtohissightincidentsfromthelifeofS.Louis.Theprocessionendedwithabattleoforangesandlemons,inwhichthekinggaveandreceivedagoodmanyblowsonthehead

withthegoldenfruit.

AttheheadoftheAlleesdesCapucins,afinestreetplantedwithtreesandwithahandsomefountainintheplacewheretheAlleesdeMeilhanuniteswithit,isareallyfinemodernGothicchurchwithtwinwestspiresofopentracery.Theyareperhapstoothin,ausualfaultwithmodernwork,butotherwisethechurchisverygoodandstately.Itisasfinewithinaswithout,butsorelydisfiguredbythecolouredglass,whichisgarish.Frenchpaintedglassisverybad.ItispreciselythesortofstuffthatwasturnedoutbyEnglishglass-paintersaboutthirtyyearsago,thecolourscrudeanddistressingtotheeye--windowsthatourmoreculturedtastecannotnowendure.ButtheFrenchartistshavenotadvanced,thewindowsputinto-dayareasdetestableasthosetheyputinatthe

beginningoftherevival.Unfortunately,everycathedraliscrowdedthroughthelengthandbreadthofFrancewiththisabominablestuff,thatisonlytolerableinamoderntastelesschurch,vulgarinitsarchitectureandinsipidinitssculpture,butispainfullyoutofplaceinavenerableminster.

ThecityofMarseilleshasbeenluckyinsecuringagoodarchitectfortheChurchofS.VincentdePaul,butinanotherarchitecturalventureMarseilleshasbeenunfortunate.Shewasresolvedtohaveacathedral,andshegavethedesigningofittoamanvoidoftaste,whohasbuilta



hideouserectiononthequayinwhatheispleasedtocallByzantinestyle.IamquitesureanyByzantinearchitectwouldcheerfullyhavejumpedintotheBosphorusratherthandisfigureacitywithsuchastructureasNotreDame.

TheGermanshaveasayingthatthehigheramonkeyclimbsthemoreheexposeshismonkeyishness;andunfortunatelythisarchitecthasbeenallowedtoclimbveryhigh.HewasgiventhepeakofNotreDamedelaGarde,thattowersoverMarseilles,onwhichtoerectachurch.Thesiteisexceptionallygood,oneonwhichamanofordinarygeniuswouldhavedonesomething,couldhardlyhavefailedtohavedonesomething,thatwouldhavebeenpicturesque.Butsuchistheperversityofthisunfortunateman'stalentthathehaserectedastructureonthelimestonecrag,ofalmostmiraculoushideousness.Itisalsoinso-calledByzantinearchitecture.Thereisadish-coverwhichservesasadome,andatowerwhichwouldbecomicalifitwerenotirritating.Itresemblesthehandleofarenaissanceknifeorforkstuckintoasheathandstandinguprightwithafigureattop.WehavemadeablunderatSouthKensingtoninsettingsidebysideadepresseddome--theAlbertHall,andtheacutepinnacleoftheAlbertMemorial;butaroadrunsbetweenthem,anditispossibletoshutoneeyeandseeoneofthesetwostructuresapartfromtheother.ButinNotreDamedelaGardethetwoarecombinedinonebuilding,andteasetheeyefromeverypointinMarseilles.

[Illustration:AbbeyofS.Victor,Marseilles]

Iascendedthesteepcragtothechurchandfounditfullofadevoutcongregation.Theservicewasthe"Salut,"andtheHostwasbeingelevatedtothestrainsof"TheLastRoseofSummer,"onthehautboisstopoftheorgan.

Theviewfromtheplatformofthechurch,ofMarseilles,thecoast,theblueMediterraneanandtheislandsisbeautiful.BelowNotreDamedelaGarde,andabovetheoldport,standstheancientAbbeyofS.Victor;thisabbey,ofwhichthechurchaloneremains,occupiesasitewherethesuccessivegenerationsofMassaliotsburiedtheirdeadfromtheearliestpagantimes,andherethefirstChristiansformedcatacombsofwhich

sometracesremainunderthechurch,subterraneanpassagesbearingsomeresemblancetothoseintheoutskirtsofRome.TheabbeyitselfwasfoundedbyCassian,inthefourthcentury,overthesegalleriescontainingthebonesofthefirstChristians,buthismonasterywaswreckedbytheSaracensfourhundredyearslater,anditwasrebuiltintheeleventhandthirteenthcenturies.WhatremainsofthisfamousAbbeyofS.Victorhasrathertheappearanceofafortressthanachurch;thewallsandrampartsdatefrom1350,andweretheworkofWilliamdeGrimoard,whowaspriorofthemonasterybeforehewaselevatedtobepopeunderthetitleofUrbanV.Theheavy,clumsypileisatypeofthearchitecture,atoncemilitaryandecclesiastical,thatcharacterisesmostofthechurchesalongthecoast.

Externallythevenerablechurchisdevoidofbeauty.Noattemptat

decorationhasbeenmade.Itseemsashapelesspileoftowersandmachicolatedandbattlementedcurtains,fallingintoalmostcompleteruin.Butonpassingthroughthesingleentrance,onefindsoneselfinawell-proportionedchurchofnaveandsideaisles,asouthchapel,andanapse.Eachbuttressoftheapseisbattlementedoutsideandformsaturret,andtwostrongtowersareadaptedinternallytoserveasatranseptandaporch.

MarseillesclaimstohavehadasitsfirstapostleLazarus,whomChristraisedfromthedead.Thefoundationofthismythisthatinthefourth



centuryitperhapshadaprelateofthenameofLazarus,thoughtheearliestknownbishopwasOrestius,A.D.314.ThefactisthattheexistenceofS.LazarusatMarseilleswasunsuspectedtilltheeleventhcentury.WhenCassianfoundedhisabbeyhededicatedittoS.Victor.IfhehadknownanythingaboutLazarus,almostcertainlyhewouldhavededicatedthechurchtohim;heerectedmoreover,twootherchapels,onetoSS.PeterandPaul,theothertotheBlessedVirginandS.JohntheBaptist.When,in1010,BenedictIX.enumeratesthegloriesoftheabbeyrestoredafterthedestructionbytheSaracens,hedoesnotmakethemosttransientallusiontoS.Lazarus.However,BenedictIX.,in1040,doesmentionthepassionofthisLazarusraisedfromthedeadbyChrist,asoneofthecauseswhytheabbeywasvenerable.HisrelicsweresaidtohavebeentransportedthencetoAthens,topreservethemfromtheSaracens.WeshalllearnmoreaboutthisfablewhenwecometotheCamargue.

CHAPTERV.

THECRAU.

TheBasinofBerre--Aneglectedharbour--Thediluvium--Formationofthe

Crau--ThetwoCraus--CanalofCraponne--ClimateoftheCrau--TheBiseandMistral--Forceofthewind--Cypresses--Avisionofkobolds.

OnleavingMarseillesbytrainforArles,thelinecutsthroughthelimestoneridgeoftheEstaque,andthetravellerpassesfromthebasinofMarseillesintothemuchmoreextensivebasinofBerre,surroundedbyhillsonallsides,awidebowllikeavolcaniccrater,withthegreatinlandsaltlakeoftheEtangdeBerreoccupyingitsdepths.Thisisagreatnaturalharbour,seventimesthesizeoftheportofToulon,andvaryingindepthfrom28to32feet;itisperfectlyshelteredfromeverywind,andentirefleetsmightanchorthereinsecurity,notonlyoutofreach,butoutofsightofanenemy,forthechainofl'Estaqueintervenesbetweenit

andthesea.ItwouldseemasthoughNatureherselfhaddesignedBerreasasafeharbourforthemerchantvesselsthatvisitthesouthcoastofFrance.Itisalmostinconceivablehowthissheetofwater,communicatingwiththeseabythechannelofMartignes,canhavebeenneglected;howitisthatitsstillbluewatersarenotcrowdedwithships,anditssmilingshoresnotstuddedwithachainofindustrialandpopuloustowns."Theneglectofthislittleinlandseaasaportofrefuge,"saysM.EliseeReclus,"isaneconomicscandal.Whilstondangerouscoastsharboursareconstructedatvastexpense,herewehaveonethatisperfect,andwhichhasbeenneglectedforfifteencenturies."ButthoughtheRomansorGreekshadastationhere,theydidnotutilisethelagoon.AtS.Chamasareremainsofthemastersoftheancientworld,butnoevidencethattheyhadthereanavalstation.

Thelinecutsagainthroughthelipofthebasin,andweareintheCrau.

Ataremoteperiod,but,nevertheless,inonegeologicallymodern,thevastfloodsofthediluvialagethatflowedfromtheAlpsbroughtdownincrediblequantitiesofrolledstones,thedetritusoftheAlps.ThisfilledupagreatbaynowoccupiedbythemouthsoftheRhone,andspreadinatrianglefromAvignonastheapex,toCetteinthewest,andFosintheeast.Thisrubble,washeddownfromtheAlps,formsthesubstratumoftheimmenseplainthatinclinesataveryslightangleintothe



Mediterranean,andextendsforaconsiderabledistancebelowthesea.NotonlydidtheRhonebringdowntheseboulders,butalsotheDurance,whichenterstheRhoneaboveArles,andformedbetweenthechainofLesAlpinesandtheLuberonanothertriangularplainofrolledstones,withtheapexatCavaillonandthebasebetweenTarasconandAvignon.ButtheDurancedidmore.Thereisabreakinthechainonthesouth,betweenthelimestoneAlpinesandthesandstoneTrevaresse;andthebrimmingDurance,unabletodischargeallherwater,chokedwithrubble,intotheRhone,burstthroughtheopendoorornaturalwaste-pipe,bySalon,andcarriedaportionofherpebblesintotheseadirectly,withoutaskinghersistertheRhonetohelpher.NowthetwogreatplainsformedbythedeltaoftheRhone,andthatoftheDuranceintotheRhone,arecalledthegreatandlittleCraus.Theywereknowntotheancients,andpuzzledthemnotalittle.StrabosaysoftheGreatCrau:"BetweenMarseillesandthemouthoftheRhone,ataboutahundredstadiafromthesea,isaplain,circularinform,andahundredstadiaindiameter,towhichasingulareventobtainedforitthenameoftheFieldofPebbles.Itis,infact,coveredwithpebbles,asbigasthefist,amongwhichgrowssomegrassinsufficientabundancetopastureherdsofoxen."

Thenwearegiventhelegendthataccountsforit.HereHerculesfoughtagainsttheLigurians,whenthesonofJove,havingexhaustedhisarrows,wassuppliedwithartillerybyadischargeofstonesfromthesky,showeredonhisenemiesbyJupiter.

Thisdesert,alittleSaharainEurope,occupies30,000acres."Itiscomposedentirelyofshingle,"saysArthurYoung,"beingsouniformamassofroundstones,sometothesizeofaman'shead,butofallsizesless,thatthenewlythrownupshingleofaseashoreishardlylessfreefromsoil;beneaththesesurface-stonesisnotsomuchasandasacementedrubble,withasmalladmixtureofloam.Vegetationisrareandmiserable,someoftheabsinthiumandlavendersolowandpoorasscarcelytoberecognised,andtwoorthreemiserablegrasses,with_Centaureacalycitropes_and_solstitialis_,weretheprincipalplantsIcouldfind."Amineralogicalexaminationoftherolledstonespresentspeculiarinterest.IntheLittleCrau,themouthoftheDurance,arefoundprodigiousnumbersofgreenandcrystallinerocks,graniteandvariolite

broughtdownfromtheAlpsofBriancon,butnine-tenthsofthepebblesoftheGreatCrauarewhitequartzbroughtfromthegreatchainoftheAlps,togetherwithmica-slateandcalcareousstones,andonlyafewofthevariolitesofMontGenevre.OnemaysaythattheGreatCrauisacompletemineralogicalcollectionofalltherocksthatformthechainoftheAlps,whenceflowtheRhoneanditstributaries.

TheaspectoftheCrauisinfinitelydesolate,butitisnolongerasbarrenasitwasformerly.Itisinfact,undergoinggradualbutsuretransformation.ThisisduetoagentlemanofProvence,namedAdamdeCraponne,bornin1525atSalon,whoconceivedtheideaofbringingsomeofthewatersoftheDurancethroughthegapwheresomeofitsoverspillhadflowedinthediluvialepoch,byacanal,intotheGreatCrau,sothat

itmightdeposititsrichalluviumoverthisdesertofstones.Hespenthislifeandhisentirefortuneincarryingouthisscheme,anditisduetothisthatyearbyyearthebarrendesertshrinks,andcultivationadvances.Thereareto-dayothercanals,thoseofLesAlpines,ofLanglade,andd'Istres,besidesthatofCraponnethatassistinfertilisingthewaste.Whereverthewaterreaches,thesoiliscoveredwithtrees,withpasture-land,withfieldsofcorn;andinanothercenturyprobablythesterilityoftheCrauwillhavebeencompletelyconquered.

Initspresentcondition,theCraumaybedividedintotwoparts,that



whichiswatered,andwhichhasbeenconvertedintoagarden,andthatwhichisnotasyetreachedbytherichloamywatersoftheDurance,andisthereforeparchedanddesolate,overrunbyherdsofsheepandcattle,drivendowninwinterfromtheAlps,whenacertainamountofherbageisfoundonthedesert,whichinsummerisutterlydryandbarren.Thesemigrationsdatebacktoaremoteepoch,fortheyarementionedbyPliny.

PrevioustotheconstructionofthecanalbyCraponne,whobeganitin1554,thedesertreachedtoArles;thewholeoftheplainsouthofthechainoftheAlpineswaseithermarshlagoon,orawasteofstones,wherenowgrowandluxuriatemulberries,olives,almondtreesandvines.ThecanalofCraponnewascarriedbytheoriginatorforthirty-threemiles,sendingoutbranchesatSalon,Eyguieres,andelsewhere.InwinterthemeadowsaregreenasthoseofDevoninspring,andthefieldsyieldheavycrops.Indeed,theDuranceactstothisregioninthesamewayasdoestheNiletoEgypt."ThemeadowsIviewed,"saysYoung,"areamongthemostextraordinaryspectaclestheworldcanaffordinrespecttotheamazingcontrastbetweenthesoilinitsnaturalandinitswateredstate,coveredrichlyandluxuriantlywithclover,chicory,rib-grass,and_Avenaelatior_."

TheclimateoftheCraupresentscontrastsmostextreme.Inwinterthethermometerfallsandremainsbelowzeroformanynightsinsuccession,andtheglacial_bise_sweepsoverthefaceofthedesert,curdlingtheblood;

theflocksandherdsseekshelterfromthisblastbehindthelongwallsofdrystones,whichsometimestheviolenceofthewindthrowsdownuponthem.

Duringthesummerthephenomenonofthemirageisalmostcontinuous.Thebedofairincontactwiththesurfaceofstonesscorchedbytheblazingsunbecomesrarifiedanddilated,sothatthehorizonappearstobefringedonallsideswithlakesofripplingwater,mostdeceptiveandtantalisingtotheeyeofthetraveller.

Thetroopsofwanderingbullsandwildhorses,flightsofrose-colouredflamingoes,ofpartridgesandwildducksgivethisregionapronouncedorientalphysiognomy,andhoweverpainfulitmaybeatsuchatimetotraversethisburningplain,itaffordsacuriouspictureoftheSaharain

miniaturenowhereelsetobeseeninEurope.

ThegreatscourgeoftheCrauisthenorth-westwind,the_bise_,theblackboreasoftheancients,soviolentastorolloverthepebbles,andtoblowawaytheroofsofhouses,andtearuptreesbytheroots.Infact,theCraumayberegardedastheHomeoftheWinds.

Itiseasytoexplaintheoriginofthesefuriousgales,_bise_and _mistral_.ThelowsandyregionsatthemouthoftheRhone,denudedofallvegetation,andthegreatstonyplainoftheCrau,heatedbythedirectraysofthesun,rarifytheairoverthesurfaceofthesoil,andthisrises,tobeatoncereplacedbythecoldairfromtheAlpsandCevennes;theairoffthesnowpoursdownwithheadlongviolencetooccupythevacuum

formedbytheheatedascendingcolumnofairofftheplain,sweepingthevalleyoftheRhone,andreachingitsmaximumofintensitybetweenAvignonandthesea,whereitmeets,andisbluntedinitsforcebytheequableatmospherethatcoversthesurfaceoftheMediterranean.

Theviolenceofthewindisconsequentlyduetothedifferenceoftemperaturebetweenthehotairoftheplainandthecoldairofthemountain.

Anoldsayingwastothiseffect:--



"Parlement,MistraletDuranceSontlestroisfleauxdeProvence."

Parlementexistsnolonger,orratherisexpandedintoaNationalAssemblythatisadiscredittoallFrance,andnotProvencealone;theDurancehasbecome,thankstoAdamdeCraponne,anagentoffertilisationandwealth.Butthe_mistral_(_magistral_,themaster-wind)remains,andstillscourgesthedeltaoftheRhone.In1845itcarriedawaythesuspensionbridgebetweenBeaucaireandTarascon;thepassageoftheRhoneisoftenrenderedimpossiblefordays,throughitsviolence.IthasbeenfoundnecessarytoplantrowsofcypressoneachsideofthelinethatcrossestheCrau,tobreaktheforceofthewinduponthetrains.Indeed,throughoutthedistrict,thefieldswill,inmanyplaces,befoundwalleduponallsidesbyplantationsofcypressesfromthirtytofiftyfeethigh,asscreensagainstthisterribleblast,toprotectthecropsfrombeingliterallyblownoutoftheground.

WhenIwasachildoffiveyearsmyfather'scarriagewithposthorseswascrossingtheCrau.Itwasinsummer.Isatontheboxwithmyfatherandlookedatthepostilions.PresentlyIsawanumberoflittlefiguresofmenwithpeakedcapsrunningaboutthehorsesandmakingattemptstoscrambleupthem.IsaidsomethingaboutwhatIsaw,whereuponmyfatherstoppedthecarriageandputmeinsidewithmymother.Theheatofthesunonmyhead,

heconcluded,hadproducedtheseillusions.ForsometimeIcontinuedtoseethesedwarfsrunningamongthepebblesoftheCrau,jumpingovertuftsofgrass,orcareeringalongtheroadbythecarriageside,makingfacesatme.Butgraduallytheirnumberdecreased,andIfailedfinallytoseeanymore.

OneJunedayintheyear1884,oneofmyboys,thenagedeight,waspickinggooseberriesinthefruitgardenathome,when,standingbetweenthebushes,hesawalittlemanofhisownheight,withabrownpeakedcap,aredjacket,andgreenbreeches.Hehadblackhairandwhiskersandbeard.Helookedangrilyattheboyandsaidsomething.Thechildwasfrightened,ranindoorsandtoldhiselderbrotherandsister.Theybroughthimtome,andhiselderbrotherrepeatedthestory,butpurposelyvariedthe

descriptionoftheapparition,soastoseewhethertheladheldtothesameaccount,butthechildatoncecorrectedhim,andtoldmehisstory,whichhisbrotherinformedmeagreedexactlywithwhatinhisalarm,hehadfirsttold.Thelittleboywaslookingwhite,andfrightened.Againacaseofsunonthehead.

Nowforanother.AladywhomIknowverywellindeed,andwhoneverdeviatedfromthetruthinherlife--savewhenshesworeatthealtartohonourandobeyme--waswalkingoneday,whenagirlofthirteen,besideaquicksethedge;herbrotherwasontheotherside.Ibelievetheywerelookingforbirds'nests.Allatonceshesawalittlemandressedentirelyingreen,withjacket,breeches,andhighpeakedhat,seatedinthehedge,staringather.Shewasparalysedwithterrorforamoment,thenrecovering

herself,shecalledtoherbrothertocomeroundandseethelittlegreenman.Whenhearrivedthedwarfhaddisappeared.

Nowthesearefunnystories,andaretobeexplainedbythefactthatthesunwashotonthehead.Butitdoesnotstrikemethattheexplanationiswhollysatisfactory._Why_shouldthesunontheheadsuperinducevisionsofkobolds?Isitbecauseotherpeoplehavesufferedfromahotsun,andthatthehotsunreproducesyearafteryearthesamephenomenon,thatthefableoflittlemen,pixies,gnomes,brownies,fairies,leprechaunsistobefoundeverywhere?Or--isitpossiblethatthereissuchalittle



creationonlyvisibletomanwhenheissubjecttocertaininfluences?

SirCharlesIsham,ofLamport,hascollectedagooddealofevidenceofasimilarnature.Idonotventuretoexpressanopiniononewayoranother.Icanrememberstill,withvividness,theimpressionproducedonmebywhatIsawthathotdayontheCrau,whenbutachildoffiveyears;butIcannotforthelifeofmeexplainitsatisfactorilytomyself.

CHAPTERVI.

LESALYSCAMPS.

Difficultyoffindingone'swayaboutinArles--Thetwoinns--The _mistral_--ThecharmofArlesisinthepast--Adeadcity--SituationofArlesonanoduleoflimestone--TheElysianFields--Aburial-placeforthesubmergedneighbourhood--TheAlyscampnowinprocessofdestruction--Expropriationofancienttombs--Avenueoftombs--OldchurchofS.Honore--S.Trophimus--S.Virgilius--Augustine,apostleoftheEnglish,consecratedbyhim--TheFlyingDutchman--TombofAElia--OfJuliaTyranna--Hermusicalinstruments--MonumentofCalpurnia--Her

probablestory--Mathematical_versus_classicstudies--Tombsof _utriculares_--Christiansarcophagi--Probablyolderthanthedateusuallyattributedtothem--AFrenchauthoronthewreckageoftheElysianFields.

Idonotknowamoreperplexingplaceanywheretofindone'swayinandoutofthanArles.DuringafortnightspentthereInevercouldhitmyinnarightonceoncomingfromtherailwaystation.Theplaceislikealabyrinth;butoneofthoselabyrinthsthatourforefathersdelightedtoconstructofpleachedalleysofboxorlimewerealwaystobetraversedwhenyoupossessedthekey.Thereisnokey,noprinciplewhateveruponwhichArleshasbeenbuilt.Everypublicedificeseemstobedodgingroundthecorner,likeChevySlyme,hidingfromsomeotherpublicedificewith

whichitisondubiousterms,ornotquiteonsocialequality,andwishestoavoidthedifficultiesofanencounter.

ArlesstreetsareabouttheworstpavedinEurope.Theyareflooredwiththecobble-stonesrolleddownbythediluvium,andtorturethefeetthatwalkoverthemandricktheankles.TherearetwomelancholyinnsinthePlaceduForum,anditishardtochoosebetweenthem,probablyitdoesnotmuchmatter.Iwasgivenabed-chamberinonewhereneitherthedoornorthewindowwouldshut,andwheretherewerebesidestwolockeddoorsthatdidnotfit,andasthe_mistral_wasblowing,myhoursinthatroomwerespentinaswirlofdraughts.Moreover,anoldpartywithbronchitiswasintheadjoiningroom,alsosufferingfromthedraughts,andindespairofrecoveringhishealthinsuchasituation.Icomplained,andwasgiven

anotherroomwherethedraughtswerethesame,butIwaswithoutmycoughingandhawkingneighbour.NowonderthatIwaschargedhalfafrancpernightformycandle.Itguttereditselfinnotimeintothetrayofthecandlestick,asitwasblownuponfromfourdistinctdirectionssimultaneously.

Arles--whennotina_mistral_--ischarming,butthecharmisinthepast.Thereonemustbea_laudatortemporisacti_,forthepresentiswhollywretchedandbad.Thefactis,Arleshadagloriouspast,fromwhichithasbeenfallingthroughouttheMiddleAgestillitreachedapointapproaching



extinction,andithasnotasyetrealisedthatbetterdaysareshiningbeforeit,andthatthereisafuturetowhichitmaylookup.

SodepresseddidArlesbecomesometimeago,thatitsonlylivelytradewasinoldcoffins.Ithadavastcemeteryoutsideitswalls,crammedwithmemorialsofthedeadofallages;andasthecuratorsofthemuseumsofParis,Marseilles,Avignon,Aix,&c.,thirstedaftersarcophagi,themournfulAreloiswenttotheirnecropolis,dugupasmanyaswerewanted,andforwardedcoffinstothosewhohadmaderequisitionforthem.

Arlesisplanteduponanoduleoflimestonerockthatrisesoutofthediluviumofrolledstones.Informertimesitwasalmostthesoledryspottobefoundformilesround,andasthedeadofPaganandChristiantimesalikeseemtohaveobjectedtowetbeds,theirbodiesweretransportedfromallthecountryroundtotheplateaueastofArlesandthereentombed.ThisplateauwascalledtheElysianFields,nowAlyscamp,andissothickwithtombsthatyouwalkoverthemasyoufollowtheroadthatrunsalongtheplateau.Youseethegrassatthesidedeadinoneplace,thereisatombthere;youseeabitofwhitemarblecroppingupinanother,thatisatomb.Youseeagreatstackofstonesheapedupbythesideofarailwaycutting,theyarealltombs.Youlookatthecuttingitself,andseethattoacertaindepthitishoneycombedwithtombs,somecutthrough,somestickingout.Ineveryfarmyardthepigseatoutofoldsarcophagi.Thefountainssquirtintothem,thebaconiscuredinthem.Thefarrierdips

hishotironintoasarcophagus.Inthechurchesthealtarsaremadeofthem.Thefoundationsofthehousesarelaidinthem.Theveryairseemstobepervadedwiththedustofthedead,andthisdustliesheavyonthespiritsandenergiesoftheinhabitants.

Butwhatanagewelivein!Utilitariananddisrespectfulofthepast!Theotherdayacargoofmummiedcat-deitiesarrivedatLiverpoolandwassoldformanure.AtArles,theParis,LyonsandMediterraneanRailwayCompanyhasboughtuptheElysianFieldstoconvertthemintoafactoryfortheirengines.ThecompanyareexcavatingLesAlyscampforthispurpose,throwingaboutthesarcophagi,PaganorChristian,orusingthemforbuildingmaterials--andsawninhalftheymakedecentquoinsforabrickshed--andstrewingthedustofthedeadofagesunderthewheelsofthelocomotives.

Oneundesecrated,unrifledheadlandremainsabovethefactories,onwhichisavenerablebutabandonedchurch.Thecompanywouldgrubthatuptoo,buttheproprietorwillnotsell,ashebelievesthetraditionthatanincalculabletreasureishiddensomewhereamongthesetombs.

ButtheAreloisnotonlyexpropriatethetombsoftheirforefathers,theyhavegivenawayorsoldotherthingsaswell.OntheAlyscampisthevenerablechurchofS.Honore,halfruinous,inwhich,undergroundinthecryptistheancientbaptisterythathadservedthefirstChristianswhenthechurchwasyoung.Itwasfurnishedwithalargeporphyrycircularvesselforimmersingadults.LouisXIV.sawit,coveteditforsomewater-works,andgottheAreloistogiveithim.Amongtheruinsofthe

theatrewasfoundaVenusofGreekworkmanshipandofParianmarble.Theysentitawayalso;itisinParis.

TheoldchurchofS.HonoreisnowreachedbyalongavenueofpoplarslinedwithPaganRomantombs.Thenaveofthechurchisinruins,butthechoirisintolerablecondition,andisthemostinterestingportion.ItconsistsinfactofanearlyRomanesquebasilicawiththreeaislesendinginthreeapses.Thepillarsseparatingnavefromaisles,threeoneachside,aregreatdrumstenfeetindiameter.Thelater,ruinousnavecontainsthereputedchapelofS.Trophimus,apostleofArles.Whenthe



fourteenthcenturychurchwasadded,thislittlechapelwasleftstandingwithin,andthoughnowcrumbling,itiscomparativelywatertight.Ithas,however,undergonerecasinginRenaissancetimes,andtounderstanditsstructurethechapelmustbeentered.Itisthenseentohavebeenanopenporchoffoursemicirculararches,andmaypossiblyhavebeenerectedoverthetombofS.Trophimus.Theonlyornamentaboutitisamoulding,whichmaygiveitsdate.

S.Trophimus,reputedapostleofAix,isnowsaidtohavebeenthatAsiaticwhowasacompanionofS.PaulmentionedinActsxx.4,xxi.27-29,and2Tim.iv.12,20.ButtheveryearlydiptychsofthechurchofArlesmentionS.Dionysiusasthefirstprelate,andthecathedralwasbuiltin625byS.Virgilius,anddedicatedtoS.Stephen.ItdidnottakethetitleofS.Trophimustillthetwelfthcentury,whentherelicsofthissaintwerebroughttoitfromthelittlechapeljustdescribed.Theexactdatewas1152;thetraditionofS.TrophimushavingbeenoneofthedisciplesofChristandcompanionofS.Paularoseaboutthistime.NotatraceofsuchatraditionappearsintheProvencalpoemcomposedbyaneye-witnessofthetranslationoftherelics.

Therewas,nodoubt,abishopofthisnameatArles,andprobablyearly,butthefirstwhosenameisauthenticatedisMartianus,whofollowedtheNovatianheresyin254.GregoryofTours--andhistestimonyisconfirmedbyaMS.ofthefifthcentury--saysthatS.TrophimuswassentintoGaulin

theconsulshipofDeciusandGratus,i.e.,250,andthathewasthefirstbishopofArles,andGregoryofToursistheearliestandmostreliableauthoritythatwehaveonthebeginningsoftheChristianchurchinGaul.

ThechurchofS.HonorewasbuiltbyS.Virgilius,ArchbishopofArlesA.D.588-618,andthebaptisterydatesfromhistime.Accordingtothelegend,whilsthewaserectingthebasilica,thepeopletoiledineffectuallytomovethepillarstotheirdestinedplace.AtlasttheysentwordtoS.Virgilthatthetruckwasfast,andthepillarscouldneitherbetakenonnorcarriedback.ThenVirgilhurriedtothespot,andsawalittledevil,likeanegroboy,sittingunderthetruck,obstructingitsprogress.Virgildrovehimaway,whereuponthecolumnswereeasilymoved.Hewasburiedinthischurch,butIdonotfancyhistombisknown.Astrangestoryistold

ofhim,howonenight,ashewaspacingthewallsofArles,orpossiblywalkingintheAlyscamp,hesawamysteriousshipcomesailingoverthemeres.Inthestarlighthediscernedformsofsailors.Theshipdrewupnearwherehestood,andavoicecalledtohim:"Reverendfather,weknowwhothouart.NowweareboundforJerusalem,andareheretoasktheetocomeonboardwithus.""No,thankyou,"answeredVirgilius,"nottillyouhaveshownmewhoyouare."Thenhemadethesignofthecross,andsuddenlytheshipresolveditselfintoadriftoffogthatrolledawaybeforethewindalongthesurfaceofthemere.Thisisthe_second_versionoftheworld-wide-knownmythoftheFlyingDutchman.TheearliestformcomestousinthelegendofS.Adrian,amartyrinAsiaMinor.AshiswidowBasilissawassailingovertheBlackSeawithhisbody,toburyitatByzantium,aphantomshippassedby,whichalsovanishedwhenadjuredin

thesacredname.

Whatis,tousEnglish,ofinterestinconnectionwithS.VirgilofArlesis,thatitwashewhoconsecratedAugustineforhismissiontoKent,atthecommandofGregorytheGreat.Sohere,probably,inthisruinous,silentoldchurch,ourapostleoftheEnglishkneltandreceivedhiscommissiontogoandpreachtheGospeltousAngles.ThissameVirgilalsobuiltthecathedral,anddedicatedittoS.Stephen.Butofhisworktherenotatraceremains.AnotherbishopofArlesofsomenotewasRegulus,whowhenpreachingonedaywassotroubledbythenoisemadebythefrogs,that



heinterruptedhissermontoorderthemtobesilent,and--theyobeyed.

InasidechapeloftheoldchurchofS.Honoratusisasarcophagusthatcontainstheskullandbonesanddustofayounggirl.Thecoffinisoflead,andthisperhapsaccountsforthepreservation.Alongwithitwerefoundthegoldear-ringsandothertrinkets.Ontheear-ringsacross,buttheinscriptiononthetombhardlyleadsonetobelievethegirlwasaChristian.Shewasagedseventeenyears,eightmonths,andeighteendays,whenshedied.HernamewasAElia.Hereistheinscriptioninthelead,translated:--

AELIA,DAUGHTEROFAELIA.

Thouwhocan'streadtheselines,readasadmishap,andlearnourplaintivelay.Manycallthatasarcophaguswhichcontainsbones,Butthishasbecomethehomeofunhallowedbees.[1]Shameitshouldbeso!Hereliesadamselofexceedingbeauty.There'smorethangriefinthis:adearlylovedwifehasbeensnatchedaway.ShelivedavirginsolongasNaturewilled.Whenshebecameabride,themarriagevowswereajoytoherparents.Shelivedseventeenyears,eightmonths,andeighteendays.Happythefatherwholivednottoseesuchsorrow.

Thewoundranklesinthebosomofhermother,herpreciousjewel,Andherfather,takenawayinoldage,stillholdsherclaspedtohisheart.

[Footnote1:Theancientsthoughtthatbeeswerebredofdeadbodies.SeeVirgil,Georgics.iv.281-5.]

Hereistheoriginalwithconjecturalrestorations.WouldnotoldDr.KeateshavewhippedtheEtonboywhowrotesuchbarbarousLatinverses!ButitmustberememberedtheArlesfolkwereGraeeco-Gallic,andnotmastersofLatin.Someofthewordsareruntogether.Itrunsthus--

AELIAAELIAE

Littera.quinosti.lege.casum.et.d(_icequerelam_.)Multi.sarcophagum.dicunt.quod.con(_tinetossa_:)Set.conclusa.decens.apibus.domus.ist(_aprofanis_:)Onefas.indignum.jacet.hic.praeclara(_puella_.)Hoc.plusquam.dolor.est.rapta.est.s(_uavissimaconjux_.)Pervixit.virgo.vbi.jam.natura.placebat.Vixit.enim.ann.xvii.et.mensesviii.diesquexviii.O.felice.patrem.qui.non.vidit.tale.dolorem.Hoeret.et.infixo.pectore.volnus.dionysyadimatri.Etjunctam.secum.geron.pater.tenet.ipse.puellam.

Thisisanexactcopy.Iamnotresponsibleforthegrammaticalblunders,

theyweremadeclearlybythesculptoroftheinscription,whodidnotunderstandwhathecut.

AmongthetombsextractedfromtheAlyscampandnowintheMuseumofArles,isanotherofagirl,andaveryaccomplishedyoungladyshemusthavebeen;hernamewasJulia,andshewasthedaughterofLuciusTyrannus.Shediedattheageoftwenty;theinscriptiononhertombrecordsthatinhermoralsandinherschoolingshewasapatterntoallothergirls.

[Illustration:MusicalinstrumentsfromthetombofJulia.]



Whatisparticularlyinterestingaboutthismonumentisthatitgivesillustrationsofallthemusicalinstrumentsshewasabletoplay,anditaffordsusIbelieve,theearliestknownexampleoftheorgan.[1]Butwhatisevenmorecuriousisthatonitisrepresentedaguitar,verymuchthesameasisnowmanufactured.

[Footnote1:Neroonthenightwhenhediedwasgoingtotryawater-organ,whenthenewsoftherevoltofGalbaandthedefectionofthetroopsreachedhim.IampuzzledaboutthisorganonthetombofJuliaTyranna.SirGeorgeGrove,inhis'DictionaryofMusic,'givesanillustrationofthissameorgancopiedfromDom.Bedos''L'ArtduFacteurd'Orgues,'Paris,1766.Thisrepresentstwoslavescrouchedandblowingintotheorganbellows.Icouldnotseethesefigures.Imademysketchcarefully,andcanhardlysupposethefigureshavebeenchippedawaysincethemonumentwasplacedinthemuseum.]

Theinstrumentsshecouldplayweretheorgan,theguitar,thesyrinxorpanpipe,andthelyre,whichshestrucknotwithherfingers,butaplectrumrepresentedbesideit.Observe,betweenthelyreandthebanjoherlittlesatchelofmusic-books,andbelowthesyrinxalambandpalm.ThisistheonlysignonthemonumentthatcouldintheleastleadtoasuppositionthatJuliaTyrannawasChristian.TheinscriptionbearsnotraceofChristianity.

[Illustration:Calpurnia'smonument.]

AnotherinterestingmonumentfoundthereisthattoCalpurnia,daughterofCaiusMarius.Probablyshediedfromtheexposureandroughnessoflifecampingout,whenthebarbarianhordesrolledwest,andalltheinhabitantsofthetownswereobligedtoflybeforethemtothehills.IshallinafuturechaptertellthestoryofCaiusMariusandhisgreatvictoryatPourrieresovertheTeutons,havingfirstthrashedtheAmbronsnearAix.Sufficeitnowtonotethathereisthetombstoneofhispoorlittledaughter.Imust,however,statethatthegenuinenessofthisinscriptionhasbeencalledinquestion.ItisalsoworthyofnoticehowthatthevictoryofMariusanddeliveryfromthebarbariansimpressedthepeople

oftheneighbourhood.InthemuseumthenameofMariusoccursonothermonuments.ThenameofMariusisevennowapopularChristiannameinProvence.

ButtoreturntoCalpurnia.TheplacewheretheArlesinhabitantsfledfromtheTeutonswasthelimestonerangeofLesAlpines,almostanisland,sosurroundedwasitbylagoonsandmarshes.

LookingatCalpurnia'smonumentIfellintoadream,andsawherwholestoryunfoldedbeforeme.CaiusMariuswasarough-manneredman,ofpeasantorigin,buthehadawifeJulia,ofpatricianrank,andwho,Ihavenotashadowofdoubt,flourishedhernobleoriginbeforehim,andtalkedverybigofhergrandrelations.Whenlittlemissiewasborn:"I'llhavenone

ofyourplebeiannames,ifyouplease,formybaby,"saidJulia;"youwillpleasenotethatmyfamilyderivesfromtheimmortalgods.IshallcallthechildCalpurnia."[1]MadameJuliawasagoodwife,andshefollowedherroughhusbandeverywhere.AtthebeginningofwindyMarch,tidingscamethattheTeutonsandAmbronswereonthemove.InAprilallthewomenandchildrenofArles,Glanum,Ernaginum,andCabeliowereclusteredontheheightsofLesAlpines,inextemporisedcabinsorinsomeoftheprehistorichabitationstheyfoundscoopedoutofthelimestone.Downcametherains.Agaleanddrivingout-pourthenasto-day,whenM.CarnotcomesintoProvence.Theroofsofthecabinsletinwater,thesidesofthecaves



randownwithmoisture.Thenthewindchanged,thesunshoneouthot,butthe_mistral_toreoverthecountrycoldandsharpasadouble-edgedsword.PoorCalpurniacouldnotstandit.Sheshiveredandcoughed,lostappetiteandspirits.NextcamethetidingsofthebattleatLesMilles,andacoupleofdayslateroftheexterminationoftheenemyatPourrieres.Nowtherefugeesmightinsafetydescendfromtheirrockyrefuges,andreturntotheirhomes.

[Footnote1:SeeAppendixA,onthismonumentandthequestionofitsgenuineness;aswellasforsomeotherinscriptionsintheArlesMuseum.]

ThenJuliawentwiththesickgirltoArles.MeantimeMariusonthebattlefieldhadreceivedtheovationofhisofficersandsoldiers,andthesalutationsofthedelegatesfromthesenateproclaiminghimconsul.Butatthesametimethereappeared--Idoubtnot,thoughPlutarchdoesnotsayso--aslavewithanotefromJulia:--

"IamsorrytotellyouthatCalpurniaisveryunwell.Thathorrible _mistral_frozeher,andshehasdonelittleelsethancoughnightanddaysince.Ihavegivenhersnailbroth,butithasnotrelievedhermuch,andsheisnowspittingblood.BothertheseTeutons,itisalltheirwork.IalwaystoldyouthatyoumadeamistakeinlettingthemcomeintoProvence,andcrosstheRhone.However,youwereeverpigheaded,andnowitservesyouright.YouwillloseCalpurnia,whoistheappleofyoureye.Nowif

youhadlistenedtome,etc.,etc.

"Salve."

Buttherewassomethingfurthertocomplicatematters,andsuperinducesicknessinadelicategirl.ToescapetothehillsthegoodpeopleofArlescouldnotfollowaroad,forthewholedistrictbetweenthemandtherangeofLesAlpineswascoveredwithonevastlagoon.Theycouldnottravelinboats,forthelagoonwasshallow,sotheywentonraftssupportedoninflatedskins,aboutwhichIshallhavesomethingtosaypresently.SoCalpurnia,creepingclosetohermother,wrappedinher _pallium_,wasexposedforhoursonaraftatthebeginningofApriltothecoldwinds,andtothewateroozingupbetweenthejointsoftheraft.

Thewholestoryworksoutlikeanequation.Ifancy--butamnotsure--aquadraticequation,somehowthus:--

AsI,ina19thcent.hotel,andinJaegerunderclothing:Calpurnia,onaraftandinapre-historiccave::acoldintheheadIgot:x

xXselfinhotelandJaegercostume=CalpurniaonaraftandinacaveXcoldinthehead.

x=pthysis.

Ithinkthisisright.Icannotbesure;andIcannotbesure,thoughIwaseducatedtobeamathematicianbyaseniorwrangler.

Thefactswerethese.Mydearfatherthought,andthoughtperhapsjustly,thataclassicaleducationwasbutathrowingbackofthecurrentofthemindintothepast,whereasamathematicaleducationdirectedittothefuture,andwasthesolecoursewhichwouldprovePactolean.SoIwascutdowninmyclassicalstudies,anddrawnoutinthosewhichweremathematical.LikewiseIwassenttheyearbeforeenteringtheuniversitytoaseniorwranglertoripenme.IthenlearnedthatwhatasaboyIwas



wonttocalltheRuleofThreewasmoreproperlytermedequations,andthatequationsmightbecomplicatedtothehighestlimitsofmuddledom,andwhensocomplicatedweretermedquadratics.AfteracourseofequationsthatflattenedoutmyheadliketheCamargue,Iwasthrustintowhatarecalledsurds,asortofwoodoferrors,inwhichonespendshoursinhewingone'swaytogetatnothingoftheslightestprofittomanorbeast;finally,Ibelievemygoodtutor,nowabishop,gottiredofme.Iwasstupefiedbysurds;andIenteredtheuniversity.Now,afterthirty-sevenyears,IfindthateveryodeofHorace,everychapterofCaesar,everylineofVirgilIlearnedatschoolliesasasprigoflavenderinthefoldsofmymemory--butIcannotevensetandworkoutacommonequation,oraddupasumincompoundadditioncorrectly.

Ibegthepardonofthereaderforthisdigression.IhavemadeitbecauseIthink,shouldmyreaderbeafather,thisexperienceofminemaybeofprofittohim.

ToreturntothemonumentsoftheElysianFields.Aconsiderablenumberhavebeenfoundhere,alsoatNimes,S.Gabriel,andCavaillon,whicharethememorialsof_utriculares_.[1]Therewereguildsofthesemen.TheyappointednobleRomansastheirpatrons,andthesepatronsontheirtombstonesmadementionofthefact.Butwhatwerethese_utriculares_?Theywereraftsmenwhocarriedontradeoverthelagoons,sustainingtheirflatvesselsupondistendedskins.Thelagoonsweresoshallowthatno

vesselofdeepdraughtcouldtraveloverthem,andallthemerchandiseofcentralGaulfortheMediterranean--thetinfromBritainforinstance--andallthegoodsoftheMediterraneanforGaul,hadtobetranshippedatArlesfromtheriverboats,unabletocrossthebar,ontothesebargessustainedoninflatedskinsthatconveyedthemtoFos,atthemouthofthelagoons,wheretheywereagainshippedfortheseavoyage.AfterMariushadcutacanal,matterswerebetter.ShipscouldcomeupthroughthelagoonstoArles,butnoneatanytimeofdeepdraught,andtheraftsmen,the _utriculares_,carriedontheirtradetilltheMiddleAges,whenthemouthsofthelagoonsbecamechoked,andthelagoonsthemselvesturnedintonoxiousmorasses.Hereisoneoftheirmonuments,inthemuseumofArles:--

"Tothemanes.ToMarcusJuniusMessianus,oftheguildofthe

utricularesofArles,fourtimespresidentofthiscorporaJuniaValeriaraisedthismonumenttohim,herson,whodiedagedtwenty-eightyears,fivemonths,andtendays."

Hereisanother,foundnearLyons:--

"TothemanesandeternalreposeofCaiusVictorinus...urix,alsocalledQuiguro,citizenofLyons,oneofthecorporationofutricularesthere,wholivedtwenty-eightyears,...monthsandfivedays,withoutgivingoffencetoanyone.Hismother,Castorina,raisedthistothememoryofhersoleandverydearboy."

Thenavigationondistendedskinsisnoweverywhereextinctexceptonthe

Euphrates.OnsomeoftheNinevehsculpturesmaybeseenmenswimmingacrossriverssustainedontheseprimitiveair-vessels.

[Footnote1:SeeAppendixC.]

InthemuseumatArlesarenumeroussculpturedChristiansarcophagi,withgroupsoftheRaisingofLazarus,theMultiplicationofLoaves,theStrikingoftheRockbyMoses,theOpeningoftheEyesoftheBlind,&c.Theseareattributedtothefourthandfifthcenturies.FormyselfIambynomeanssatisfiedthattheChristiansarcophagiofrichandbeautiful



sculptureareaslateasthedatesgenerallygiventothem.Ijudgebythefashionofthehairwornbytheladies.NowthereisasarcophagusatArleswiththetwelveapostlesonit,sixoneachsideofChrist,andaportraitofthedeceased.Thisissetdowntobeatombofthefifthcentury,andyettheladywearsherhairinpreciselythefashion,anditwasapeculiarone,oftheFaustinas,thewivesofAntoninusPiusandMarcusAurelius,A.D.138-177.ItmustnotbeforgottenthattheprotectionofthelawswasextendedtoChristiansepulchresaswellasPagantilltheedictofValerianinA.D.257,andalthoughthiswaswithdrawnbyGallienusinA.D.260,yetafterthatedict,thecemeteries,thecatacombs,wereneverquitesecure;beforethat,theChristiansmadenoconcealmentoftheirplacesofburial,theyusedtherichestavailabledecorationsforthem,insculptureandinpainting.OnlyafterA.D.257dotheornamentationscease,orbecomehastilysketchedandrude,andtheinscriptionsdegenerateintoscrawls.Allthefinest,costliestworkintheRomancatacombsbelongstothefirsttwocenturiesandthebeginningofthethird.WhenpeacereturnedtotheChurch,arthadfallenintodecay,andtherewerenotsculptorscapableofperformingsuchworkashadbeendonebefore.NomoreconvincingproofofthiscanbefoundthanthetwoporphyrytombsofConstantiaandHelena,daughterandmotherofConstantine,nowintheVatican.

TowhatadepthofdegeneracysculpturefellmaybejudgedbythelidofthesarcophagusofS.Hilary,BishopofArles,d.449,nowintheArlesmuseum.Besidetherudelettering,therearebutaleafandtwobirds

onit,buttheymighthavebeenscribbledbyachild.ItistomeinconceivablethatsomeofthebeautifulwhitemarblesarcophagibothatArlesandatRome,sculpturedwithScripturalscenes,canbelongtotheperiodwhenartwasasdegradedasitcertainlywasinthetimeofConstantine,andIthinkthatantiquarianshavebeenmisledindatingthem.

BeforetakingleaveoftheElysianFields,ImustquotethewordsofaFrenchauthoruponthem:--"Ithasbeenarichquarryonlytooeasilyworked,andwewillnothereenteronthepainfulstoryofitsspoliation.AllthemuseumsofthesouthofFrancepossesstombsstolenfromtheAlyscamp.Astothemonolithictombs,theywereabandonedtoanyonewhocaredtohavethem,andformanycenturieshavebeenregardedasstonesquarriedreadyforuse.ThecityofArleshasonseveraloccasionshad

theculpablecondescensionofgivingupthetombsofitsancestorstotheprincesandgreatmenoftheworld.CharlesIX.ladedseveralshipswiththem,whichsankintheRhoneatPontS.Esprit.TheDukeofSavoy,thePrinceofLorraine,theCardinalRichelieu,andahundredothershavetakenawayjustwhattheyliked,andArlesto-dayhashardlymoretoshowofthisvastcemeterythananavenue--butanobleone--ofsarcophagiandsomefragmentsoffineGothicorRomanesquechapelslostinthemidstofadesert."[1]

[Footnote1:Lentheric,'LaGreceetl'OrientenProvence,'1878.]

CHAPTERVII.

PAGANARLES.

TheArlesraceamixtureofGreekandGaulish--ThecolonisationbytheRomans--ThetypeofbeautyinArles--Theamphitheatre--Abull-baiting--Provencalbull-baitsdifferentfromSpanishbull-fights--Thetheatre--TheancientGreekstage--ThedestructionoftheArles



theatre--Excavationoftheorchestra--DiscoveryoftheVenusofArles--Asickgirl--PalaceofConstantine.

BeforedescribingArlesIbeganwiththeElysianFields,thegreatcemeteryofPaganandChristianArles,forthisseemstohaveaffectedthewholetown,andwiththedustofagestohavesmotheredthelifeoutofit.

NowletuslookattheremainsofancientArles.ButfirstofallletmeobservethattheArlesracepridesitselfonitssingularpurityofdescent.Therewas,unquestionably,aGaulishsettlementthere.TheKelticnameAr-lath,the"moisthabitation,"tellsusasmuch.SodoesthelegendofProtisandGyptis,alreadyrelated.ButitwasspeedilyoccupiedbyalargeGreekcontingent,andtheracewasformedofGreekandGaulishbloodunited.IntheyearB.C.46aRomancolonywasplantedatArles.Caesar,desirousofpayingoffhisdebtofgratitudetotheofficersandsoldierswhohadservedhiminhiswars,commissionedClaudiusTiberiusNero,oneofhisquaestors,fatherandgrandfatheroftheemperorsTiberius,Claudius,andCaligula,toconducttwocoloniesintoSouthernGaul,onewassettledatNarbonneandtheotheratArles,andthiswasoneofthefirstmilitarycoloniesplantedbeyondItaly.

TheofficeofthisTiberiuswastoportionoutthelandamongtheveteransoldiers,sixthousandmenoftheSixthLegionoccupiedthetownand

countryround--suchofit,atallevents,aswasnotunderwater--andthenceforththecitytookthenameofArelateSextanorum.Tacitusgivesusapictureoftheproceedingsonsuchoccasions.Afterthetribunesandthecenturionscameacloudofofficialscalled_agrimensores_,surveyors,chargedwiththedutyofparcellingoutthesoilamongthenewcomers.Thenfollowedahierarchyofcivilofficers,religious,judicial,administrative,allunderthedirectionofanadministrator-general,whowasentitled_curatorcoloniae_.FromthatmomentthetransformationofthecolonialtownintoalittleRomewasamatteroftimeonly.Thenewcomersconstructedacapitol,aforum,temples,triumphalarches,aqueducts,markets;besidesthese,theatres,acircus,baths.InaveryfewyearstheaspectofArleswascompletelychanged.AmercantilecityofGraeco-GaulshadbecomeLatinised,bureaucratic,andnattereditselfthatitwaslike

itsnewparentontheTiber.Itcalleditself_GallulaRoma,Arelas_.

[Illustration:AnArelaise.(_FromaPhotograph_)]

Consequently,wefindinArlesastrongcurrentofRomanbloodmingledwiththeGreekandGallic,andtherehasbeenpracticallynootheradmixture.Cutofffromthecountryroundbyitsmarshesandlagoons,ithasmaintaineditspurityofbloodanditscharacteristicstampofface.TheArleswomenaresaidtobe,believethemselvestobe,andshowtoeveryonethattheybelievethemselvestobe,thehandsomestwomeninFrance.TheirtypeisquitedistinctfromthatoftheinhabitantsofNimes,Marseilles,Aix,andevenofthepeasantryoutsidethegatesofArles.Whatisthemoresingularisthatthispeculiarityoftypeisnotnoticeableamongthemen.

Amongthewomenitisquiteunmistakable.TheirstraightbrowsandnosesaresometimesGreek,buttheRomanarchappearsasfrequentlyasthestraightnose;theyhavemagnificentdarkeyes;blackhairwhichiscurledupovertheirbroadstraightbrows,broughtforwardabouttheirfacessoastoformadarkmistyhaloroundtheolive-complexionedfeatures,thentiedintoahornatthetopofthehead,whichisboundroundwithblacksatinribbon,thatflowsdownattheback.Thefaceishaughty,noble,somewhatimperious.QueenstheseArelaisesfeelthemselvestobe,downtothefishwivesinthemarket-place;theywalkasqueens,aswellasthecobblestoneswillpermit,andbearthemselves,theirblackmantillascastover



theirarms,inaqueen-likemanner.

Ihadafineopportunityofstudyingthem,forIwenttothefirstbull-fightoftheseasonintheoldRomanarena,andallArleswasthere,maleandfemale,downtothebabiesinarms.Betweeneach_course_allthespectatorspromenadedunderthegalleriesandontheterraceatthetopoftheamphitheatre,thewomeningaladressofwhitelacebodices,blackmantle,anddarksilkskirts;andaveryfinesighttheywere;itwasworththefortycentimesIpaidforadmissiontoseethesemajesticwomenpacealongandsweepthelittlemenfromtheirpathastheycareeredroundandroundtheamphitheatre,withcold,sternfaces,fullofprideofancestryandconsciousbeauty.

IwillquotetheopinionontheArlestypeofaverycompetentjudgeperfectlyacquaintedwiththewholeofProvence:--"ItcanbeaffirmedwithoutcontradictionthatGreekbeautyexistsatArles,andexistsonlyamongthewomen.Themenareclumsy,smallandvulgar,rudeinformandroughinvocalintonation.Thewomen,onthecontrary,havepreservedtheancestraldelicacy.Thefaceisthatofacameo,thenoseisstraight,thechinveryGreek,theeardelicatelymodelled;theeyes,admirablyshaped,haveinthemasortofAtticgrace,transmittedfromtheirmothers,andtobehandedontothechildren.

"Togetanideaofthischaracteristictype,onemustnotstudytwoor

threesubjects,butmustobservethewholepopulation_enbloc_,andespeciallycompareitwiththeneighbouringpopulations.TheresultofsuchacomparisonbringsoutwithforcethegrandlinesconstitutingintheArelaisethecharacterofaperfectlydefiniteanddistinctrace."[1]

[Footnote1:Lentheric,_op.cit._]

[Illustration:PartoftheAmphitheatreofArles.]

AsIhavealreadymentionedtheamphitheatre,IwillbeginmyaccountoftheantiquitiesofArleswiththat.IntheMiddleAgesitwasturnedintoafortified_bourg_intheheartoffortifiedArles;itcontainedstreetsaboutasbroadasamancouldwalkupandtouchwallsonbothsideswith

armsakimbo,acrowdofhouses,andtwochapelsorchurches.Fourgreattowerswereerectedatthecardinalpoints,andthevastgalleriesandarcadeswereaverywarrenofhumanhabitations.Constructedofhugeblocksoflimestone,laidwithoutcement,theamphitheatreformsanellipse,whoseaxismeasuresfourhundredandtwentyfeetbythreehundredandtenfeet.Itissaidtobeabletocontaintwenty-sixthousandspectators,whichisjusttwothousandfivehundredmorepersonsthantheentirepopulationofmodernArles.

Externallyitpresentstwostagesofsixtyarcades,betweenthearchesareengagedDoricpillarsinthelowerstorey,thoseaboveareCorinthian,butonlyaboutsixofthecapitalsoftheselatterremain.Thereare,within,threestagesofseats,thoseforthesenators,thosefortheknights,and

theupperrangeforthecommonpeople,nowmuchmutilated,andturnedintoapromenade.Fortunatelytheaccumulationofearthoverwhichthehouseswerebuiltwithinthearenawassogreat,thatwhenthatwasclearedaway,themarblecasingofthe_podium_wasdisclosedinverytolerableperfection.

WhenIvisitedtheamphitheatre,LesArenestheyarecalled,itwastoseea_CourseauxTaureaux_.TheProvencalsarepassionatelyfondofthesebull-baits,whichtakeplaceweeklythroughthesummer,beginningatEaster,butitisonlyatArlesandNimesthattheyarecarriedoutinthe



ancientRomanamphitheatres.

These_courses_arequitedistinctfromtheSpanishbull-fights.Thereisnobrutality,notorturingofthebeastwitharrowsandcrackers,nogoringofhorses.Thebullisuninjured,and,thoughhegetsfurious,clearlyrelishesthefight,andinsomecasescannotbeinducedtoabandonit.Theoldproconsularseatwasdraped,andoccupiedbythe_prefet_andmadame,andthe_sous-prefet_.Thespectatorswentwheretheyliked,menpaidfourpence,womenthreepenceforadmission.Thearenawasenclosedwithinascreenofstrongtimberboards.

FivewildbullsfromtheCamarguewereadvertisedtobebaited.One,astrongblackfellow,Nero,wasclearlyafavourite--hisnamewasannouncedinverylargeletters.Everybullisgivenarosetteofcolouredribbons,fastenedbetweenhishorns,andthesportconsistsinpluckingawaythisrosette,andbearingitinsafetybeyondthebarricades.Shouldarosettefalltotheground,itdoesnotcount.Aprizeisgiventowhoeverrecoversarosette.Theblood-redrosetteofNeroentitledthesnatcherofittoonehundredfrancs.AnothercharacteristicfeatureoftheProvencal_courses_ isthattherearenoprofessionaltoreadors.Anymanorboywholikesentersthelistsagainstthebull.Usuallytherearefromadozentoascoreandahalfinthearena,allendeavouringtopluckthebunchofribbonsfromthebrowoftheenragedbull.

Frompractice,andacquaintancewiththehabitsofbulls,theyoungmenbecomeveryskilful,andfatalaccidentsarerare.Theamateurrunsupalongsideofthebull,swingshimselfroundinfrontofit,andmakeshissnatch.Thebullatoncegoesathim,andhetakestohisheels.Whenheisflyingasecondinvariablyrunsacrosshispathatrightangles,andthebullcanneverresistthetemptationofturninguponthissecond.Ifhealsoishardpressed,athirdcrossesbetweenhimandthebull,andagaindivertstheangrybeast.Inonecaseaman'sfootslippedashewasflying,andhefell.Thenthebullwasonhimbeforeanothercouldintervene,butthebruterolledovertheprostrateman,whogotup,shookhimself,andclearedthebarricade.

[Illustration:BackofahouseatArles.]

Oneverynimbleyoungfellowinagreyshirthadattractedgeneralattentionbyhisdexterity.HewasresolvedtohaveNero'srosette.Hemanagedtowrenchitfrombetweenthebull'shorns,butnotcompletelytodisengageit.Thebulldroveafterhimsoclosethatitwasimpossibleforanothermantorunbetween,thegreyshirtreachedthebarrierandswungover,butthehornscaughthisnethergarmentandrentit,fortunatelywithoutreallyinjuringtheman,who,however,wasnotabletoenterthearenaagainthatday.

Whena_course_hasbeenrunthedoorsareopened,andoneortwoyoungbullsaresentintothearena;theyrunround,andthebullwhohasbeenbaitedadjoinsthem,andtheyallrunouttogether.Nero,however,would

notgo.Hewasfagged,buthisbloodwasup.Fivebullsweresentintolurehimaway,buthewasresolvedtogorehismanbeforeheleft.Hisrosettehehaddanglingonhisbrow,uncaptured.

Thenthekeepersenteredwithaspeciesofhalbert,withhalf-moonshapedsteelsatthehead,andonesmallspikeinthemidst.WiththistheycaughtthehornsofNero,andhewasforcedtoretreatbeforethemen,forifheresistedthespikeenteredhisheadandhurthim.Thusfinally,bysheerforce,hewasdriven,snorting,pawingtheground,andwitharchedtailfromofftheplaceofcontest.



Thesportisgood.Itisnotcruel.Itdrawsoutthecourage,provokesdexterityandnimbleness,andtakestheplaceinProvencethatcricketdoesinEnglandandgolfinScotland.

TheRomanslovedthebrutalanddemoralisinggamesoftheamphitheatre.Wherevertheywenttheyerectedthesehugeplacesforentertainingthemselveswiththespectacleofsuffering.ThereneverwasanamphitheatreatMarseilles,forMarseilleswasGreekandnotRoman,andtotheGreeksuchspectacleswereabhorrent.

AtArlestherearetheequallyinterestingremainsofatheatre.Thestageisfairlyperfect,withitscustomarysceneryofCorinthianpillarsgroupedsoastoformtwodoorsforentranceandexitbetweenthem.Thepillarsofthispermanentscenearenotallinplace.Twoarestanding,andthebasesofothersremain.Attheprosceniummaybenoticedthegroovesintowhichthebeamsfittedforthewoodensmallstagethatstoodforwardinfrontofthecurtain.

TheancientGreektheatrewascomposed,likethatofourdays,ofahemicycleforthespectators,andarectangularportionthatformedtheplacefordramaticperformance.Thepitwasasemicircle,andwasnotfittedwithseats,butconstitutedtheorchestra.ThisorchestraamongtheGreeksformedaninferiorstage,and,asitsnameimplies,wasreserved

fortheballet.ItwasnottillRomantimesthatspeciallyprivilegedspectatorswereadmittedintoit,butitneverhadthemusiciansinstalledinit.Theselatterwereplacedinfrontofthestage,muchwhereisourmodernproscenium.Theactorsperformed,asnowadays,ontheboardedanteriorportion,whichwascalledthe_pulpitum_.Finally,tofacilitatecommunicationbetweenthestageandtheorchestra,apairofflightsofstepsdescendedlaterallyfromtheproscenium.InthecentreofthepitororchestrawasusuallyplacedanaltartoBacchus,aroundwhichthechoirsexecutedtheirevolutions;andagainstthislittlealtarsattheprompter,hiddenbyit,whilstsomeflute-playersstoodbesidethealtar,inflowingrobes,actingasballetmasters,andgivingthemeasurewiththeshrillnotesoftheirpipes.

TheGreektragedy,therefore,hadadoubleaction,oneonthestageproperandtheotherbelow,andallwasgracefulandrefined.Thepuresttaste,themostelevatedsentiments,werethecharacteristicsoftheGreekdrama,andthemostbeautifulandstirringeffectswereproducedbymeansoftheutmostsimplicity.Thus,whentheTragedyofthePersaeofAEschyluswasbeingperformed,thedepthofthestageopened,toshowinthedistancetheblueseaonwhicharecentvictoryhadtakenplace,withtherockyisleofSalamisbathedinthetintsoftheEasternsettingsun.Athrillofthemostlivelyemotionraninstantlythroughthewholecrowdofspectators.ButwiththeRomansthetheatrelostitsdignity,andwasdegradedtolowbuffoonery,indecenciesthemostrepulsive,andtogaudyspectacles.Sobadwasthemoralresultproducedbythetheatre,thatthefirstChristianbishopswhowereabletodoso,stirredtheiradherentstothedestruction

ofthisbreeding-placeofmoralpestilence.TheMS.chroniclesofthechurchofArleshavepreservedthenameofthemanwhodestroyedthetheatre.Hewasadeacon,Cyril;actingunderastrongmoralimpulse,filledwithrighteousindignationattheobscenitiesperpetratedontheboards,herousedtheChristianpopulaceofArlestoattackandwreckthetheatreandexpeltheactors.Themobburstin--torethemarblefromtheproscenium,smashedthestatuesofadmirableGreeksculpture,overthrewthealtarandgroundittopowder,upsetthecolumns,andreducedittoastateofruinverylittlebetterthanthatinwhichitisatpresent.Headsofstatueswereknockedoff,bas-reliefsbrokeninhalf,cornices,capitals,



werethrownintothepitandchokedittothelevelofthestage.

In1651thepickwassettoworktoclearoutthisorchestra,andalmostthefirststrokerevealedoneofthemostadmirableworksofGreeksculpturethathasdescendedtous,theVenusofArles,animitationorreproductionofthecelebratedVenusofPraxiteles,now,unhappily,lost.Thisstatuelaybeforethecolumnsoftheprosceniumandhadbeensavedfromdestructionbytheruinsthathadburiedit.Headandbodyarealmostintact,onlythearmsweregone.

Thegoddessishalfnaked,liketheVenusofMilo.Thebustisslightlyturned.Headandcoiffureareofthenoblestandpurestexecution.

ItwaseveningwhenIvisitedthetheatre,abalmyspringevening,wheresheltercouldbeobtainedfromacoldwind.ThepinkJudastreeswereinfullflower.Thesyringasscentedtheair.Thegoldensunlightfilledthetheatrewithlightandwarmth.Buttwopersonswerepresent,exceptmyself.Seatedononeofthewhitemarblestepsfortheaudience,wasanArlesmotherwitharoyalface,inthequaintlybeautifulcostumethewomenofallclassesstillaffect,andshehadspreadhermantleovertheshouldersofagirloffourteen,sick,withfaceofthepurestalabaster,andoffeaturesasfineaswereevertracedforVenusAnadyomene,withlarge,solemn,dreamyeyes,watchingarobinthatwasperchedontheprosceniumandwastwittering.

Thepity,love,andsorrowofthatmother'sheartwerenottobereadinhercalmdisciplinedcountenance,butIcouldseetheemotionsflowinshortwaveletsfromherheart,throughthearmthatencircledthesickgirl,intothehandthatrhythmicallycontractedandexpandedonthesharplittleshoulder,rockingthechildinthewarmsun,againstherownheart,andwithherdarkeyeslookingintothefuture,inwhichshewouldhavenomorethechildathersidetosway.Inthattheatre!--theebbingtideofawhiteandlimpidlifetakingitslastsunning,wherethecrowdshadlaughedandroaredtheirapplauseatsightsandsongsofunspeakablefoulness.

[Illustration:AboatwithtworuddersatArles.]

Inthemuseummaybeseensomeofthetreasuresfromthetheatre,aheadofAugustus,aso-calledLivia,abustoftheyoungMarcellus,bas-reliefs,dancingwomen,afewinscriptions,andthesealofaRomandentist,whichIsupposehelostthereonedaywhenwatchingaplay,andwhichhasrecentlybeenfoundthere.

Itisworththevisitor'swhiletowalkbythebroadmuddyRhone,andobservetheclumsypicturesquevesselsmooredthere,orglidingdowntheturgidstream.Soclumsyistheconstructionthatsomeareprovidedwithtworudders,onebeingfoundinsufficienttodirectthecourseofthesetubs.

AtArles,neartheriver,isapalaceofConstantinetheGreat,nowturned

intocottagesandsheds,andinaveryruinouscondition,butsufficientofitispreservedtoshowwhatafallingoffinarchitecturehadensuedthroughtheanarchyofrisingandsinkingemperors,andthedestructionofthegreatfamiliesofthePatriciate.Employmentforarchitectsandsculptorswasgoneintimesofproscriptionandmilitaryrevolts,andapparentlyallatoncetheartsthathadreachedtheutmostperfectionfellintoaconditionofthemostabjectdegradation.



CHAPTERVIII.

CHRISTIANARLES.

SundayinFrance--Improvedobservance--ThecathedralofArles--Westfront--Interior--Tool-marks--Asermononpeace--Thecloisters--OldSacristanandhisgarden--NumberofdesecratedchurchesinArles--NotreDamedelaMajeur--S.Caesaire--TheislesnearArles--Cordes--Montmajeur--Agipsycamp--Theruins--Tower--ThechapelofS.Croix.

IspentthefirstSundayafterEasteratArles.Itwasabrightandjoyousspringday.Iwenttothecathedralatnineo'clockandfoundagoodcongregationthere,listeningtoasermonontheobligationofobservingtheSunday.Itwasdull,andIleft.ButImayhereobservewhatagreatchangehastakenplaceinFranceoflateyearsrelativetothisobservance.IcanrememberwhenIwasaboyhowthateveryshopwasopen,andbusinesswentonmuchasonotherdays.ButtheChurchhasmadegreateffortstoobtainaduerecognitionoftheLord'sDay,andallwhoconsiderthemselvestobegoodCatholicsnowshuttheirshops,andothers,whofindthatthereisnowverylittletradegoingonuponSunday,shuttheirshopsalsobecauseitisofnousehavingthemopen.Itisonlythepolemicalinfidels

whocontinuetokeeptheirfactoriesinfullworkandtheirplacesofmerchandiseopentoinvitepurchasers.

SomefewyearsagoIwastalkingwithaFrenchmaninRome,acommercialman,aboutthephylloxerathatwasdevastatingthevines,andruiningthepeasantry,andIaskedhimwhatwasbeingdonetocorrecttheevil."Bah!"saidhe."Everythinghasbeentried.Monami.Wedon'tobservetheSunday.Voilalevraiphylloxera."

[Illustration:OnahouseatArles.]

Nowthisobservationofhiswasonlyworthsomuch,thatitshowedhowthattheclergyhadbeengoinghammerandtongsattheconsciencesoftheir

sheep,tilltheyhadimpressedaconvictiononthemthatiftheyneglectedthecommandmentofGodrelativetotheobservanceofonedayinseven,Hewouldchastisethemtilltheyrealisedthattheyhaderred,acknowledgedtheirerror,andendeavouredtorectifyit.

ThecathedralofArlesisaveryinterestingchurchindeed.Externallythewestfrontisrichintheboldrudestyleofthetwelfthcentury,andconsistsofadeeply-recessedsemicirculararchrestingonahorizontalsculpturedfriezewhichformsthelintelofthedoor,andiscontinuedoneachsideuponpillarsthatrestonthebacksoflionsandhaveapostlesandsaintsstandingbetweenthem.Theinteriorofthechurchisverysolemnandstriking.Ithasbeencleaned,butjudiciously,withoutsand-paperingawaythetool-marksontheancientstone.Hasthereaderneverbeenpuzzled

tonotethedifferencebetweenoldworkandnew,evenwhenthenewisareproductionoftheold?Inthenewthereisanabsenceofsomething,butwhatwecannottell.Thissomethingisveryprobablynothingmorethantheoldtool-marks.Theancientworkersleftonthestonethetaleofeverystroketheydealt,andtoagesonagesthesemarkstellus:herewasastrongarmemployed,herewasdealtavigorousblow;hereSymonthehewerwastickledwithacomicalstorythatmasonPetertoldandhelaughed,andtheblowhedealtranjaggedwithhislaughter.Thesestrokesweredoneinthemorning,whentheworkerswerefresh;thoseateven,whentheirarmswereweary.Butnowadaysthestoneisallgoneoverwithametaltoothcomb,



andscrapedtillnotatool-markremains,andwoodisglass-paperedtilleveryparticleofsharpnessandcharacteristakenoutofthework.

[Illustration:Samsonandthelion,fromthewestdooroftheCathedralofArles.]

TheaislesofthecathedralofArlesarebutfivefeetwide,thearchesareround,thewindowsRomanesque;thechurchisbarrel-vaulted,nothingcouldbeplainer,andyetsomehowthatoldchurchisfullofpoetryandcharm.IwenttoHighMassateleven.Itwasallveryhomely,quietandreverent.Anothercongregationwasgathered;aGregoriansimpleservicesung,whichthecongregationknewandjoinedinheartily.Thenupintothepulpitgotacanon,andgaveouthistext,fromtheGospel,S.Johnxx.,endofversenineteen.Myheartstoodstill.Why--youshallhear.

[Illustration:OnahouseatArles.]

Justtwenty-twoyearsago,IwasinSwitzerlandonWhitSunday,andwenttothelittlevillagechurch.The_cure_gaveoutthesesamewordsashistext,andpreachedaverygoodsermononPeace,thoughperhapsnotveryappropriatetotheday.Peace,hesaid,wasanexcellentthing,whether(1)inacountry;(2)inahousehold;(3)intheconscience.Therewehadthethreeheads;onthesehedilated.Firstwehadapictureofthemiseriesofwarinacountry,andtheconversepictureofprosperityinpeace.Then,

secondly,wehadadescriptionofdomesticdiscomfort,wherehusbandandwifewereatloggerheads,and--naturally,acharmingfamilypiecewherebothwereinunity.Thencame,thirdly,thespecialtopicofhisdiscourse,peaceintheconscience,andhowitwastobeobtainedandsecured.

Ibottledupthatsermoninmymemoryandhavepreacheditsince,myself,onceortwice.

Oneday,somefifteenyearsago,IwasatEichstaedtinBavaria,onaSaturday.ThechurchofS.Michaelthereisreservedfortheepiscopalseminary;Iwantedtoseetheinteriorandfounditlocked,butdiscoveringasidedoorintothecloistersopen,I,andmywifewhowaswithme,entered.Thechurchwasempty,savethatasacristanwithafeatherbrush

wasdustingthesidealtars,buttomysurpriseIheardasermonbeingpreached,andcaughtaglimpseofapriestinthepulpitharanguingandgesticulatingtoanemptychurch.

Thesacristan,whosawusenter,wentintoconvulsionsoflaughter.Ididnotunderstandthesituation,andwalkedslowlydowntheaislelookingatthepictures,andlisteningtothediscourse.IwasverymuchsurprisedtohearthesubjectofPeacebeingchoppedintothreeportions:peaceinthecountry,peaceinthefamily,peaceintheconscience.ItwasmyoldfriendthesermononPeaceagain.Presently,mywifeandI,havingfinishedwiththepicturesinthenorthaisle,crossedthenaveofthechurchtolookatthoseinthesouthaisle,when,suddenlythepreacherwasawareofastrangegentlemanandladyactingashisaudience.Hisvoicefaltered,

hebrokedown,searchedforhisMS.,couldnotfindhisplace,fellintocompleteconfusion,turnedtail,andbolteddownthestairsandoutofthechurch.Hewasarecentlyordainedseminaristrehearsinghisfirstsermon.

TwoyearslaterIwasinBrussels.AnewdeanhadbeenappointedtoS.Gudule,andwastopreachhisfirstsermon.Iwenttherewithafriend.Hegaveouthistext.Iprickedupmyears.Thenheaddressedhimselftohissubject,Peace;andshowedhowitnaturallydivideditselfintothreeheads,peaceinacountry,peaceinahousehold,peaceintheconscience.Itwasmyoldfriendagain.



[Illustration:SouthentrancetotheCloister,ArlesCathedral.]

NowwhenIheardthistextgivenoutbyacanonatArles,Ithoughtwithashock:Blessme!weshallhavethosethreeheadsoncemore!ButIwasmistaken.Theoldmangaveusasimple,crystal-purediscourseoftenminutesonthepeacethatpassethman'sunderstanding.

NowIdonotmeantohintthattheSwiss,theGerman,andtheBelgianpreachersallusedliterallythesamediscourse;butIsupposethatintheseminariestherearesuppliedcertainskeletondiscoursesforthewholeyear,andtheseskeletonsaredressedupsometimesinhomelyfustian,sometimesinrhetoricaltinsel:yettheyneverremainotherthandressed-upskeletons.

ThereisverylittleofcolourinthecathedralofArles--onlyninegreatpiecesofFlemishtapestry,greenandsoftpaleyellow,thataresuspendedintheaisles.Alltherestisofunadornedlimestoneblocks,unadornedsaveforthechippingmarksoftheoldmasonssevenhundredyearsago.

Onthesouthsideofthechurchisadelightfullyrichcloister,thearcaderestingondoublecolumnswhosecapitalsarerichlysculpturedwithsacredsubjects,incidentsfromtheOldandNewTestament.Inthecloisterisawell,fed,Ibelieve,originallybytheoldRomanaqueductthatsupplied

thetownwithpurewaterfromthehills,butwhichwassufferedintheMiddleAgestofallintocompleteruin.Thisaqueductwasolderthantheamphitheatre,foritraninacutchannelthroughtherockbeneathit.OneeveningthatIwasinthecloistertheagedsacristanwasengageddrawingfromthiswellandwateringalittlegardenofflowershehadmadeinthesunnyshelterednookwithinthecloister,againstthesouthwall.

[Illustration:PartofthenorthcloisterofArlesCathedral.]

Itwasaprettylittlesubject;theoldmaninhislongblackcoat,withsilveryhair,stoopingoverhisanemonesandtulips,tyingupthewhitenarcissusthataswirlofthe_mistral_hadbroken;withthequaintsculpturedcapitalsofthepillarsabove,andthedeepshadowsbetweenthe

pillarsbeforehim;inthejunctionsoftheoldblocksabovethearcadewerewildgillyflowersblooming,andunderthetileswereswallowsbusyovertheirmudnests.Andastheoldmantiedupthebruisednarcissus,inacrackedvoicehesangtohimselfoneofthevesperpsalms,andIcaughttheverse:

"Haecrequiesmeainsaeculumsaeculi:hichabitaboquoniamelegieam."("Thisshallbemyrestforever,herewillIdwell,forIhaveadelighttherein.")

[Illustration:ChurchofNotreDamedelaMajeus,Arles.]

Arleswasatonetimeacityofchurches,butthehurricaneofthe

Revolutionsweptoverher,andnowshehasleftbutfour.Onthewalls,isaveryearlyRomanesquechurch,totteringtoruins,becausetheSocietyforthePromotionofAthleticSports,towhomithasbeensurrenderedupfortumbling,climbing,wrestling,areimpecuniousandcannotkeepitwatertight.Hardbyisanotherchurch,stillearlier,atempleadaptedtoChristianworship,nowhalfsweptaway,halfdevotedtoacabaret.ThechurchoftheCordeliersisturnedintoaschool,andtheoctagonaltowerrisesoutoftheroofofthedormitory.Thebeautifulfourteenth-centurychurchoftheDominicansisastableforthehorsesoftheomnibusesthatplybetweenthetrainandthetown.S.Martinisdesecrated,soisS.



Isidore.TheearliestchurchinArlesisNotreDamedelaMajeur,neartheArenes,butitdoesnotlookitsage.ItwasinthatchurchthattheCouncilassembledin475onthedoctrineofGrace,whentheGallicanprelateswerebynomeansdisposedtoadmitS.Augustine'spredestinarianteaching.Outsidethechurchintheopenspacearetracesofwallsthatarelevelwiththeearth;andifIamnotmistaken,theyarethefoundationsofanearlybasilica,withapsetothewest.ThechurchwasrebuiltintheMiddleAges,andmadetoorientate,andwasthrownfurthereastthantheearlierchurch.Thatismyimpression,butnothingcanbedeterminedwithoutpickandspade.

[Illustration:TowerofthedesecratedchurchofS.Croix,Arles.]

InthechurchofS.Antonineisametalfont,madetoresemblethelaverofSolomon,restingonthebacksofoxen.

[Illustration:PartofthecourtyardoftheconventofS.Caesarius,Arles.]

TheoldGrandPrioryhasacharmingRenaissancefronttotheriver,andsomelaterichflamboyantworkinastreetattheback.Itisnowturnedintoagalleryofindifferentpictures.TheChurchofS.Caesaireismodernised,andhas,alas!nothingofinterestremaininginit,onlyitshistoricmemoriestohallowit.

[Illustration:ChurchofthePenitentsGris,Arles.]

S.Caesarius,sonofacountofChalons,bornin470,hadbeeneducatedatLerins,butthencehewasdrawnin501,tosucceedthefirstfathersofthatholyisle,HonoratusandHilary,uponthearchiepiscopalthroneofArles.Hewasengagedinerectingagreatmonasteryforwomenoutsidethewalls,whentheOstrogothsandtheFranksmetinafuriousconflictbeneaththem.Hismonasterywasreducedtoaruin.Apriest,arelativeofCaesarius,hadthemeannesstolethimselfdownthewallsatnight,escapetoTheodorictheOstrogothking,anddenouncehimasengagedinsecretcommunicationwithClovis,kingoftheFranks.AssoonasArleswastaken,CaesariuswasledundercustodytoTheodoric,butwasspeedilysetatlibertybythatgreat-mindedprince.Anotherandsimilarchargewas

madeagainsthimlater,andCaesariuswasforcedtotraveltoRavennatoexculpatehimself.OnhisreturntoArleshesettoworktorebuildhismonastery,notthistimewithoutthewalls.Hemadehisownsister,Caesaria,theabbess,andshegoverneditforthirtyyears,andgatheredaboutheracommunityoftwohundrednuns.ThisbraveChristianwomancausedtobeprepared,andrangedsymmetricallyroundthechurch,stonecoffinsforherselfandforeachofthesisters.TheysangdayandnightthepraisesofGodinthepresenceofthenewtombsthatawaitedthem.Wheneachsisterwasdead,shewasplacedinoneofthesestonecoffinsandcarriedofftotheElysianFields,andmostlikelysomeofthemareamongthosetherestrewnaboutorbeingnowbrokenup.ItwasintothischurchthatCaesariushimself,feelinghisendapproach,hadhimselfconveyed,thatwithfeebleupliftedhandshemightbestowhisfinalblessingonthatband

offaithfulwomenwhowerelabouringtobringahigheridealofwomanhoodbeforetheArlesfolk,corruptedbythevicesofthedecayedcivilisationofRome.

Asalreadysaid,Arleswasformerlysurroundedbywater,riverononeside,meresontheother.Outofthelagoons,however,roseisletsoflimestonerock;ofthesetherearetwo,CordesandMontmajeur,buttherewerealsoformerlyanumberofsmallertoftsstandingabovethewater,butnotalwaysrocky,forminganarchipelago,andwerecoveredwiththecottagesoffishermenand_utriculares_,andfarmerswhocultivatedvinesandoliveson



theslopesabovethereachofthewater.SuchwereCastelet,Montd'Argent,Pierre-Feu,andTrebonsitte.Nowadayswecangobyroadtoallthesespots,formerlytheycouldbereachedonlybyboatorraft.TheisleofCordesisaboutfivemilesfromArles,itwasevidentlyatoneperiodfortified,andisbelievedtohaveformedforsometimethecampoftheSaraceninvaderswhoscourgedandsweptProvencewithswordandflame.IntherocksofCordesisaverycuriouscave,calledtheTroudesFees,formedexactlyintheshapeofasword,withlateralgalleriestoanswertothecross-pieceatthehilt.Itwasundoubtedlyaprehistorichabitation,probablyenlargedbytheSaracensandusedbythemasastorehousefortheirspoils.Itisenteredthroughanovalantechamberwhichresemblesthehiltofthesword;andwhichmostlikelywastheoriginalprehistoricdwelling.ButthelargestoftheislandswasMontmajeur,thatnowrisesabruptlyfromtheplain,crownedwithruins.Iwalkedtoitindrivingrainand_mistral_.AsIapproached,Isawagipsywomanbringingwaterinapailtothecamp,butthewindliterallyscoopedthewateroutofthepailaswithaspoon,andwhenshereachedherdestinationverylittleremained.Istoppedandhadalittlechatwiththegipsies.Theyhadtriedtosetuptheirtent,butithadbeenblowndownovertheirheads,andhadbeenrolledalongwiththeminit,astheysaid,likeabagofpotatoes.Theywerenowsquattedintheleeofawall,anoldruinedwall,andwereendeavouringtoboilakettle,buttheflameswerecarriedbythewindinhorizontalflashes,andwouldnottouchthebottomofthevessel.TheywantedmetohaveacupofcoffeewiththemwhenIreturnedfromseeingtheruins,andIpromisedtodoso,

but,onmyreturn,Ifoundthatrainandwindhadblownandsousedouttheirlittlefire,andtheyhadnotbeenabletogetthewatertoboil,soweredrinkingitlukewarm.Good-natured,merryfolk,theylaughedovertheirtroublesasthoughitwereasovereignjoke,andyettheyweredrenchedtotheskin.

[Illustration:Inthecloisters,Montmajeur.]

MontmajeurwasagreatBenedictineabbey,withagloriouschurchfoundedinthesixthcentury,thatwasrebuiltintheeleventhandthirteenthcenturies,overalargeandinterestingcrypt,andwithcloistersatthesidelikethoseofArles,butbynomeansasrich.BeneaththeabbeyarethechapelandthereputedcellofS.Trophimus,whoprobablyneverlived

there--acharmingspecimenofearlyRomanesque.Partofthischapelisscoopedandsculpturedoutofthelivingrock.Butwhatisoneofthegrandestportionsoftheabbeyisthemachicolatedtowerthatcommandstheplainformilestothesea,anoblespecimenofadonjon,andinexcellentpreservation.TheabbeybuildingsadjoiningthechurchwereerectedaboutfiftyyearsbeforetheRevolution,whenthemonasterywasintheplenitudeofitswealth.TheyformthewreckageofapalaceforprincesratherthanofanabbeyforthesonsofS.Benedict,whoIamquitesurewouldhavebeenoneofthefirst,haditbeenpossibleforhimtobethere,tolayhishandtodestroyit,alongwiththemobofArles'republicans,asutterlyoutofaccordwiththespiritofhisrule.Indeed,onlookingupatthesesumptuoushallsandstatelygalleries,onecannotbutfeelthatthetimewaspastinwhichthemonasticorders,wealthyandluxuriousandidle,

couldbeendured.Thechurchisnolongerinuse,andisruinous.

Belowtherockisaspitoflandthatstoodancientlydryabovethemeres,andonthatisaverysingularoldchurchdedicatedtotheHolyCross,roundwhichhasbeendiscoveredaminorAlyscamp,aplaceofsepultureutilisedfromtheearliesttimes.SainteCroixisnowregardedasanationalmonument,andispreservedcarefully.Itconsistsofacentralsquaretower,fromwhichprojectfourequalsemicircularapses,thattothewesthavingaporchattached.Itwasconsecratedin1019.Itislightedbythreelittlewindows,onlyonetotheeastandtwototheS.and



S.E.Internallyitisentirelydeficientinsculpture,andwasprobablydecoratedwithpaintings.Thiswasafuneralchapelinthemidstofthecemetery,andwasneverusedasachurch."Themonksbroughttheirdeadhither,"saysViolletleDuc,"processionally;thebodywasplacedintheporch;thebrethrenremainedoutside.WhenMasswassaid,thebodywasblessed,anditwasconveyedthroughthechapelandoutatthelittleS.door,tolayitinthegrave.Theonlywindowswhichlightedthischapellookedintothewalledcemetery.Atnight,alampburnedinthecentreofthismonument,and,inconformitywiththeuseofthefirstcenturiesoftheMiddleAges,thesethreelittlewindowsletthegleamofthelampfalluponthegraves.Duringtheofficeforthedeadabrothertolledthebellhungintheturret,bymeansofaholereservedforthepurposeinthecentreofthedome."AsimilarbutearliermortuarychapelisatPlanes,inRoussillon.

[Illustration:InthecloisteratArles.]

CHAPTERIX.

LESBAUX.

ThechainoftheAlpines--ThepromontoryofLesBaux--TherailwayfromArlestoSalon--FirstsightofLesBaux--ThechurchesofS.Victor,S.Claude,andS.Andrew--ThelordsofLesBauxclaimeddescentfromoneoftheMagi--Thefairmaidwithgoldenlocks--ThechapeloftheWhitePenitents--The_deimo_--HistoryoftheHouseofLesBaux--ThebaronypassestotheGrimaldi.--TheladiesofLesBauxandthetroubadours--Fouquet--WilliamdeCabestaing--Themoralityofthelovesofthetroubadours--ThePorcelets--Storyofasiege--LesBauxaplaceofrefugeforthecitizensofArles--_GlanumLiviae_--ItsRomanremains--Inthetrain--Jaegergarments.

FromeasttowestrunsthechainofLesAlpines,forjusttwentymiles,separatingtheDurancefromtheplainoftheGreatCrau.Itisoflimestone,andrisestotheheightofabouteighthundredorathousandfeet,butisremarkablefromtheabruptnesswithwhichitspringsoutoftheplain,andthefantasticshapesassumedbyitscrest.

ThischaindiesintotheplaintothewestatS.Gabriel,anditsextremelimitstotheeastarethecragsofOrgon,whichrisesheerabovetheDurance,andtheMontduDefendsfarthertothesouth.TothenorthisthebroadflatvalleyoftheDurancestretchingawaytoTarascon,tothesouththevastdesertoftheCraureachingtothesea.

AbouttwelvemilesfromS.Gabriel,thechainoftheAlpinesthrustsforth

anarmtothesouththatrisessheerfromtheplainsomefivehundredfeet,andformsaplateauatthetopencrustedwithwhitecrags,twothousandsevenhundredfeetlong,bysixhundredfeetwide.Itisdetachedfromthemainchainbyadip,andoneveryothersidestandsupinprecipices.ThisisLesBaux,thenameinProvencalsignifies_cliffs_.

ThereisalittlerailwayfromArlestoSalon,bywhichonetravelsatasnail'spacetothestationofParadou,whenceawalkoffivemilestakesoneintoacrater-likevalleysurroundedbybaldwhitelimestonecrags,andthere,toweringoverhead,arethewallsandtowersofLesBaux,ina



positionapparentlyinaccessible.ThisvalleystruckmeasverymuchlikeoneoftheLunarcraters,asIhadseenitthroughtheNorthumberlandtelescope,justaswhite,ghastlyandbarren.Inthebottomwere,indeed,afewpatchesofgreenfieldandaclusterofpoplars,butthesidesofthecraterwerealmostwhollydevoidofvegetation;andthewhitestonewherequarried,anditwasquarriedextensively,glistenedlikesugar,withagreenishwhitelustre.IncomingfromArlesIhadtravelledthirdclass,inacompartmentontopofthesecondandfirstclasscarriages;forontheselittlelinesthecarriagesareoftwostoreys;theupperstoreycommandsthebestview;andinthecompartmentwithmewasanintelligentpostman.WegotintoconversationaboutLesBaux.Hetoldmethathehadlivedthere,andhadfoundthereaconsiderablenumberofflintandbronzeweapons.HewasnowstationedatTarascon,andheinvitedmetopayhimavisit,whenhewouldshowmetheweaponshehadfoundonthesehills.Healsostronglyurgedmenottoreturnbythesameroute,buttostrikeacrossthechain,reachS.Remy,seetheRomanremainsthere,catchtheeveningtrain,andsoreturntoArlesbyTarascon.

[Illustration:LesBaux.]

AndnowforLesBaux,whichiscertainlyoneofthemostastoundingplacesIhaveeverseen.

Letthereaderconceiveofarockyplateaustandinguponabruptprecipices

abovetheplain,withitstopnotaltogetherlevel,butinclinedtothewest,andtheeasternsidefringedwithwhitecrags.Lethimimaginealittletownclusteredontheslopetothewest,clingingtotheinclinedsurfacetopreventitselffromslippingovertheedgeandshootingdowntheprecipice.Thenlethimimaginethewhitelimestonefringethatrisestotheeastsomeninetyfeetabovethetown,adaptedtoservethepurposeofacastle,naturalcliffssculpturedandperforatedtoformwindowanddoor,andvaultandhall,andwherelivingrockdidnotavail,masonryadded,andthewholethrownintoruin.Thisiswhatheseeslookingupfromthevalley.Thenlethimclimbthesteepascent,ancientlytheonlywaybywhichthetownandcastlecouldbeapproached,andhisamazementwillgrowwitheverystephetakes.Afterhavingpassedunderagatewaywelldefended,hewillfindhimselfinthestreetofaMediaevalPompeii:

houses--notcottages,butthemansionsofnobles--all,ornearlyall,inruinsanduninhabited,somewitharchitecturalpretensions;achurch,stillinuse,dedicatedtoS.Vincent;anotherstilllarger,S.Claude,halfsculpturedoutofthelivingrock,halfofmasonry,beautifullyvaulted,withnoglassinthewindows,andthedoorsfallenin;achapelofS.Anne,withoutaroof,andsometreesgrowingoutofthefloor.Anotherchurch,thesecondparishchurchofLesBaux,S.Andrew,crumbledtoitsfoundations.Furtheruptheascent,beddedintheruinsofthecastle,abeautifulGothicchapelwithdelicateribbedvaultingofthethirteenthcentury,alsoinruins.Ononeportionoftheplatformtothesouththeremainsofagreathospital,withtherecessesforthebedsofthepatientsroundit.Acemeteryenclosedwithinwalls;guardrooms,halls,amightydove-cothewnoutoftherock;galleriesandthewindowsofbanqueting

hallscutintherock;highup,unapproachable,asthemasonryhasbeenblownupandthrowndownthatformedthewesternsideofthecastle.Andtothenorth,wherewastheonlyapproachtothecastlebytheneckofland,acurvedridgeoflimestonerockwashewnintoawallofdefence.Nowaroadhasbeenengineeredalongthis_col_,andtherockwallhasbeencutthrough;notonlyso,butithasbeencarriedthroughanobleman'smansion,andthesculpturedfireplacesoverhangthecarriageroad.

Such,briefly,isthegeneralaspectofLesBaux.Nowwewillenterintodetails.Wewillbeginwiththeonlyparishchurchstillinuse.This



churchconsistsofnaveandsideaisles,withlateralchapels.Thefloorofthechurchishoneycombedwithgravesscoopedoutoftherock.Inoneofthesebeforethehighaltar,afewyearsago,whentheslabthatcovereditwasraised,thebodyofamaninrichgarmentswasdisclosedholdingabookinhishand,thatseemedtohaveescapedtheravagesoftime.However,onthefirsttouch,itfelltodust.Inanothersepulchrewasfoundthebodyofayounglady.Singularlyenough,herhair,whichwasofagoldenstrawcolour,wasuninjured,thoughtherestofherbodycrumbledtodustintheair.Theinnkeeperofthelittleplacemanagedtopossesshimselfofit,andatoncedubbedhistavern"AlaChevelured'Or."Hewaswonttoexhibitthemassofgoldenlockstothevisitorforaconsideration.Recentlythetavernhaschangedhands,andtheoldinnkeeperhascarriedoffwithhimthegoldenlocks.Consequently,theinnhaschangeditsname,andisnowtheHotelMonaco.

[Illustration:LesBaux.]

Infrontofthechurchisasmallplatformthatoverhangstheprecipice.OnitistheruinedchapeloftheWhitePenitents,erectedin1659.OverthedoormaybereadwithdifficultytheinscriptioninLatin,"AtthenameofJesuseverykneeshallbow."Hardbyisacistern,semicircular,dugoutofthelivingrock;thisgoesbythenameofthe_deimo_--thatistosay,theplaceoftithe.Intothiscisternthefarmersofthemanorwereboundtopourthetenthofallthewinetheymade,asthedueoftheLordofLes

Baux.

TheruinedchurchofS.ClaudehasinthebossesofthevaultingthearmsofthePrincesofLesBaux,andofothernoblefamilieswholivedinthelittletownandwerefeudatoriesoftheprinces,aswellasofsomeoftheguildswhichhadchapelsinthischurch.Thearmsoftheprincesrepresentedastar,fortheseprincesclaimeddescentfromBalthazar,oneoftheMagiwhocamefromtheEasttobringgiftstotheinfantSaviour.

ThetombofRaymonddesBaux,grandchamberlainofQueenJeanneofNaples,atCasaluccio,bearstheinscription,"TotheillustriousfamilyoftheBaux,whichisheldtoderiveitsoriginfromtheancientkingsofArmenia,towhom,undertheguidanceofastar,theSaviouroftheworldmanifested

Himself."

TheBaronyofLesBauxconsistedofseventy-ninetownsorbourgs,whichformedtheterritorycalledLaBaussenique.ItwasconfiscatedbyLouisIII.,DukeofAnjou,andCountofProvencein1414,afterhavingbeengovernedbyonefamilyfromPonsdesBaux,thefirstwhoappearsinhistory,andwhodiedin970.Thelastmalerepresentativediedin1374,andhissisterandheiress,Alice,marriedConrad,CountofFreiburg,whodiedin1414.Shebequeathedtheprincipalitytoherkinsman,William,DukeofAndria,butonaccountofhisattachmenttotheopposedparty,LouisIII.seizedonLesBaux.In1642,LouisXIII.erecteditintoamarquisate,andgaveittoHonoreGrimaldi,PrinceofMonaco,anditremainedinthepossessionoftheHouseofMonacotilltherevolutionof1789.

TheprincesofBauxwerepodestasofMilan,consul-podestasofArles,wheretheyhadacastle,wereseneschalsofPiedmont,grandjusticiariesofthekingdomofNaples,princesofOrange,andviscountsofMarseilles.TheyborealsothetitlesofcountsofProvence,kingsofArlesandVienne,princesofAchaia,countsofCephalonia,andfinallyassumedthatofemperorsofConstantinople.

Thecastlewasthricebesieged,twicedestroyed,andagainrebuilt;itlastedoverelevencenturies.Themostcompleterestorationofthecastle



andofthetown-wallstookplacein1444byLouisIII.ofProvence;butwhenitpassedtotheCrownofFrancein1630,byorderofCardinalRichelieu,itwasdestroyed.Thestrengthofthepositionwassuchthathefearedit.

Intheolddays,whenthePrincesandPrincessesdesBauxheldcourtinthiseagle'snest,itwasagreatresortofthetroubadours,whocametoitfromallquarters.Fouquet,theProvencalpoet,celebratedinhisversesAdelasia,wifeofBerald,PrinceofBaux.Hewasfilledwitharomanticloveforthisexaltedlady,andonherdeath,inafitofsorrow,becamemonkofCiteaux.AfterwardshebecameabbotofThoronet,bishopofMarseilles,andfinallyarchbishopofToulouse.

Hewasbornbetween1160and1170,andwasthesonofamerchantofVenicewhohadretiredfrombusinessandsettledatMarseilles.WhenRichardCoeurdeLionwasonhiswaytoSyria,hemadesomestayatMarseillesbeforegoingontoGenoa,wherehewastoembark,andthereFouquetinsinuatedhimselfintohisgoodgraces.Hewasmarried,buthiswifewassorelyneglected,andallhisdevotionwaspaidtotheladyAdelasiadesBaux.

Provencaltraditionsdivergeastotheresultofhissuit.Accordingtooneaccount,hecould"jamaistrouvermerci,niobteniraucunbienendroitd'amour,"fromtheobjectofhispassion,and,indisgust,heturnedtomakelovetoLauradeS.Jorlan,sisterofBeralddesBaux.Buttheother

accountisthathemadelovetobothladiesatonce,andthatAdelasiacasthimoffbecauseshefoundthathisfickleheartwasturningtothefreshercharmsofLaura.Anyhow,hemadehisrejectionbyAdelasiathesubjectofpoeticallaments,andprosecutedwithvigourhissiegeoftheheartandvirtueofhispatron'ssister.AndthenhepursuedwiththesameardourtheconquestofEudoxia,wifeofWilliam,CountofMontpellier.

Asalreadysaid,afterthedeathofAdelasia,heassumedthecowl.AsBishopofToulouse,heexercisedtheferocityofawolfinhisdealingswiththeAlbigenses."Thereisnoactoftreacheryorcrueltythroughoutthewar,"saysDeanMilman,"inwhichtheBishopofToulousewasnotthemostforward,sanguinary,andunscrupulous."Thehistorianofhislife,inthe'HistoireLitterairedelaFrance,'saysofhim:"Afterhavinggiven

halfhislifetogallantry,hegaveup,withoutrestraint,theremainderofhislifetothecauseoftyranny,murder,andspoliation,andunhappilyheprofitedbyit....Lovingwomenpassionately,aferociousapostleoftheInquisition,hedidnotgiveupthecompositionofverseswhichboretheimpressofhissuccessivepassions."

Anothertroubadour,WilliamdeCabestaing,sangthepraisesofBerengariadesBaux.AfterwardshelosthishearttoSermonda,wifeofRaymonddeRoussillon,who,notseeingthefunofthisromanticspooningofhiswife,waylaidandslewhim,thenpluckedouthisheartandhaditservedupattableintheevening.Afterhiswifehadpartakenofthedishheinformedherthatwhatshehadtastedwastheheartofheradmirer.She,fullofhorror,threwherselffromawindowofthecastleandwasdashedtopieces.

Thisoutragewastheoccasionofcivilwar.TherelativesoftheladyandofWilliamdeCabestaingpersuadedAlphonsoI.,KingofAragon,toravagetheterritoriesoftheCountofRoussillonandtodestroyhiscastle.

Again,anothertroubadour,Sordel,sangthepraisesofRambaudedesBaux,butinsuchenigmaticalfashionthathisversesmaybereadasasatireuponhercharms.

Theprincelyfamily,moreover,hadamongitsmemberstwotroubadours,BerarddesBauxinthetwelfthcentury,andinthenextRambauddesBaux,



whoin1236distinguishedhimselfbyhissongsinhonourofMariedeChateauvertandoftheCountessofArgeuil.

In1244thetroubadoursviedwitheachotherinlaudingCeciliadesBaux,whowascalledPasse-Rose,onaccountofherbeauty.OtherladiesofthesamefamilysungbythepoetswereClairettein1270and1275byPierred'Auvergne,andEtiennettedeGanteaume--whoshoneintheCourtofLovein1332atRomanil,andBaussette,daughterofHughdesBauxin1323,sungbyRogerofArles.Sothefamilymusthavebeenonethatinitsalliancesanddaughterswasdistinguishedbyitsbeauty,orelsepaidliberallyforflattery.

VernonLee,inherEuphorion,passesaseveresentenceontheromanticaffectionprofessedbytheminstrelsoftheMiddleAgesfornobleladies.Shesaysitwasrankadulteryandnothingshort.Idonotthinkso.Theremayhavebeencases,therenodoubtwereinstancesofcriminalpassion,butinninecasesoutoftenthesetroubadourssangfortheirbreadandbutter.Theylaudedtheseigneurstotheskiesfortheir_gestes_ofvalour,andtheirladiesfortheirtranscendentbeauty;theylaidontheircolourswithatrowel,andwerepaidforsodoing.Thatsomeofthemburnttheirfingersinplayingwithfireonecannotdoubt,butIhardlythinkthattheysettoworkintheirtriflingwiththeintentofprovokingblisters.Thehusbandsofthemuch-laudedladieswerehardlylikelytosufferthissortoffuntoproceedbeyondromancing.Therewasalwaysachanceofaminstrelwhowent

toofarwithhisheartintotheflames,gettingitroastedonaspitandservedupalaWilliamdeCabestaing.

Besides,agoodmanyofthesemuch-besungladieswerenoyoungbrides,butmatureandwitheringmatrons.Atroubadourattachedhimselftoaladyasheattachedhimselftoaseigneur,and,asaclientofboth,fawnedonandflatteredboth.IcannotrefertoPetrarch,forIbelievehisLaurawasnotamarriedwoman,andthePlatonismofhisaffectionismorethanquestionable.Hewasnotanacknowledgedtroubadour,butanexile,whomthehaughtyfamilyofSadewouldnotsufferLauratomarry.ButthereisthecaseofDanteandBeatrice,andofWolframofEschenbach,oneofthenoblestandpurestofsingers,whoidealisedhisladyElizabeth,wifeoftheBaronofHartenstein,andwithhimmostundoubtedlythedevotionwas

withouttinctureofgrossness.Itispreciselythisunreallove,orplayingatlove-making,thatisscoffedatbyCervantesinDonQuixoteandthepeerlessDulcineadelToboso.

Why,thatunfortunateWilliamdeCabestaing,whoseheartwasofferedtohismistress,sangofherascoldtohissuit:--

"SinceAdamgatheredfromthetreeTheapple,causeofallourwoe,Christne'erinspiredsofairashe.Agracefulform,nothighnorlow,Amodelofjustsymmetry,Askinwhosepurityandglow

Therarestamethystsurpass;SofairissheforwhomIsigh.Butvainareallmysighs,alas!Sheheedsmenot,nordeignsreply."

TheCourtsofLoveheldbyladiesofhighrankwereoriginallycourtsinwhichtherulesofminstrelsywerelaiddown,theypronouncedonthequalificationsofacandidate,theypolishedandcherishedtheLangued'ocinitspurity,dictatedthesubjectsuponwhichthetroubadoursweretocomposetheirlays,judgedtheirpretensions,settledtheircontroversies,



recompensedtheirmerits,andpunishedbydisgraceorexclusionthosewhoviolatedthelaws.InthetwelfthcenturytheseCourtsofLadiesdrewupProvencalgrammars,inwhichtherulesofthedialectwerelaiddown.Oneoftheseisthe"Donatusprovincialis,"anotherwascomposedbyRaimondVidal.ButtheseCourtsofLovewentfurther.Theylaiddownrulesforlove;theyallowedmarriedwomentoreceivethehomageoflovers,andevennicelydirectedallthesymptomstheyweretoexhibitofreciprocation.Butitisquitepossiblethatthiswasallsolemnfooling,andmeantnoharm.

Iwonderwhetherthosegoldenlockscarriedoffbythetavernerhadbelongedtooneofthosequeensofbeautysungbythetroubadours!Probablyso,forthechurchofS.Vincentwastheirmausoleum.

OneofthenoblefamiliesthatowedfeudaldutytotheLordsofLesBauxwasthatofPorcelet,andtheirmansionisoneoftheveryfewthatisnotdesertedandruinousinthelittletown.ItisnowoccupiedbysomeSistersofMercywhokeepinitanorphanage.ThePorceletswerethefirstnoblesofArles.KingReneofAnjou,whowasfondofgivingnicknames,sometimesflattering,sometimesthereversetothis,entitledthefamilyGrandeurdesPorcelets.OtherofhisdesignationswereInconstancedesBaux,DeloyautedeBeaufort,EnviedeCandole,DissolutiondeCastelane,SottisedeGrasse,andOpiniatretedeSade.

AstoryistoldofoneofthesiegesofLesBauxwhichisfoundelsewhere.

Thegarrisonofthecastleandtheinhabitantsofthetownwerereducedtogreatstraitsforfood,whenorderswereissuedthateveryoneshouldsurrenderwhathehadintoacommonfund,tobedoledoutinequalportionstoall.Asnonecompliedwiththisorder,adomiciliaryvisitwasmadetoeveryhouse,whenanoldwomanwasfoundtohaveapig,likewiseasackofbarleymeal.TheSieurdesBauxorderedthepigtobegivenafeedandthentobethrownovertheprecipice.Whenthebesiegersfoundthatthebesiegedhadapigsowellnourishedtheythoughtitwashopelesstoreducetheplace,andraisedthesiege.

Inthethirteenthcenturythelittleeagle'snestofatownnumberedthreethousandsixhundredinhabitants.Atthepresenttimeitcannotcountfourhundred.Everytwoorthreeyearsseesanotherhousedeserted,andthe

tenantsmigratetothevalleyorplain.

Thehousesare,likethecastle,partlyscoopedoutoftherock,andpartlyconstructed.Wholechambers,kitchens,cellarsareveritablecaverns.Therecanbenodoubtthattheplacehasbeencolonisedfromprehistorictimes,andthatmanyofthesecavesarethedwellingsofaprimitivepopulationintheStoneperiod.VastquantitiesofGreekMarseillesmedalsandofcoinsoftheEmpirehavebeenfoundhere,aswellasfragmentsofpotteryofeveryage.AfewyearsagoabeautifulbronzehelmetofGreekshapewasherediscovered.

TheplacehasservedasarefugefortheinhabitantsofArlesatvariousperiods.HithertheyfledbeforetheTeutonsandAmbronsinB.C.102,when

theseinvaderssweptacrossthesouthofGaulontheirreturnfromSpain;andoppositeLesBaux,ontheheightsofCostaPera,maybetracedthewalledcampandcisterns,wheretheytookrefugeandremainedtillthedangerwasoverpast.Again,inA.D.480,whenEaric,kingoftheVisigoths,tookpossessionofArles,theinhabitantsfledtotheheightsofLesBauxandconstructeddwellingsforthemselvesthereintherock.Thesechambers,scoopedoutofthelimestonecrag,arelocallycalledBaumes.

Ancientlytheroofsofthecastlecaughttherains,andshootsconveyedthewaterintogreatreservoirsthatremain,butsincethedestructionofthe



castletheinhabitantshavehadtopaveonewholesweepoftheplateausoastocatchtheshowers,andconveythemawayintoasubterraneancisternwherethewaterpurifiesitselfforuse.

AftertheHotelDieuceasedtobeusedasanhospital,itwasconvertedintoanarenaforbull-fights,butasonseveraloccasionsthebullsescapedandfellovertheprecipices,theutilisationofthegreathallforthispurposewasabandoned.

IhadacharmingwalkacrossthehillstoS.Remy,nearwhicharetheremainsoftheRomancityofGlanumLiviae.Theseremainsconsistofatriumphalarch,andalovelymonumentaboutfiftyfeethigh,quadrangularatthebase,adornedwithwell-preservedbas-reliefsrepresentingaskirmishofcavalry,acombatofinfantry,andasacrificeafterabattle.AbovethisbasementrisesacirculartemplewithCorinthianpillars,containinginthemidsttwostatues.Thetriumphalarchisnotinequallygoodcondition.Thebas-reliefsonitrepresentcaptivebarbariansandtheirwives.IcaughttheeveningtrainatS.Remy,andagainascendedtothethird-classcompartmentintheupperstorey.Presentlyaftermecametheguard:"WouldnotMonsieurliketodescend?Thereisfemalesocietydownstairs.""But,assuredly--onlyIhaveathird-classticket.""Canefaitrien,"repliedtheguard,"sohavetheladiesbelow,butweneversendthemupintotheattics.Come,monsieur!"AccordinglyIdescendedtoacarriage-loadofcheeryArlesdamselsandmatronsinthequaintand

picturesquecostumeofthattown,andtoalittleFrenchdoctorandacoupleofgood-naturedZouaves.

"But--thisisveryremarkable,"saidthedoctor."OnlyanhouragoIsawamonsieurinthesamehatandbootsasyourself--onlythefacewasnotthesame.""Verypossibly.Areyouadoctor,anddonotrecogniseJaegergarments?Iamnot,itistrue,incoatandcontinuationsofthatsanitaryreformer,becauseIhadtodiscardthem.Thefactis,Ihadacompletesuit,buthavingbeenoutintheraininthem,theyshrankonmetosuchanextentthatIenteredthehousecontractedlikeatrussedfowl,andhadtobecutoutofthesuitwithapenknife."

"Whatcountrymanareyou?"askedthedoctor.

WhenItoldhimheshookhishead."YouhavenotanEnglishpronunciation.AreyouGerman?"Ialsoshookmyhead.ThenheattemptedsomewordsinEnglish.Iwasobligedtolaugh:hewasunintelligible.AsIcouldnotunderstandhisEnglish--"Mais,Monsieur!"saidtheArleswomen,"youmustbeaSwiss."

Itwasnotcomplimentary,Imustadmit,tobethoughttospeakFrenchwithaGermanaccent.Ithascomeaboutthus,Isuppose,that,thoughasaboyIlivedinFranceformanyyears,yetoflateIhavebeen,almostannually,avisitortoGermany.

Ionlymentionthisincident,becauseIgotintotroublelaterthrougha

similarmisapprehensionastomynationality.

[Illustration:RangeoftheAlpinesfromGlanumLiviae.]

CHAPTERX.

THECAMPAIGNOFMARIUS.



TheTremaie--RepresentationofC.Marius,Martha,andJulia--TheGaie--TheTeutonsandAmbronsandCimbrithreatenItaly--C.Mariussentagainstthem--HiscampatS.Gabriel--Thecanalhecut--ThebarbarianscrosstheRhone--Firstbrushwiththem--TheydefilebeforehimatOrgon--TheroutoftheAmbronsatLesMilles--HefollowstheTeutons--TheplainofPourrieres--PositionofMarius--Thebattle--SlaughteroftheTeutons--Positionoftheircamp--MonumentofMarius--VenusVictrix--Annualcommemoration.

[Illustration:RuinsS.Gabriel.]

ThetwooldestandmostinterestingmonumentsofLesBauxhavebeenunnoticedinthelastchapter.ThesearethesculpturedstonesofTremaieandGaie.Theyaretwolimestoneblocksfallenfromtheprecipicesabove,lyingontheflounceofrubblenearthebottomofthepromontoryofLesBaux,theoneontheeasttheotheronthesouth.Thatontheeast,LaTremaie,consistsofablockofshell-limestoneabouttwenty-fivefeethigh,inwhich,twelvefeetfromthesoil,issculpturedasemicircularheadedniche,fiveandahalffeethighbyfourandahalffeetwide,thatcontainsagroupofthreepersonages,abeardedmanontheleftoftheobserver,atallwomaninthecentrewearingamitre,andontheright

anotherwoman.Atfirstglance,IconfessIsupposedthiswasabitofsculptureoftheeleventhcentury,butonclimbingtotheroofofthechapelerectedbeneaththeniche,someforty-fiveyearsago,Iwasabletoexaminethegroupminutely,andsatisfiedmyselfthattheworkisoftheClassicperiod.

[Illustration:LaTremaie.]

Whatgavemethefirstimpressionthatitwasoflaterdatewastheuseofthehoneysuckleornamentatthecrownofthearch,andatthecapitalsofthepillarssupportingit,whichwasadoptedbyarchitectsoftheeleventhcenturyfromClassicwork.ButoncloseexaminationIfoundthat,notonlywerethefiguresdressedinpureClassictunicsandtogas,butthatthe

draperyismodelledinconformitywiththatofthesameepoch,andisquitedistinctfromthemodellingbytheMediaevalartists.Thisisspeciallynoticeablewherethestatueshavebeenprotectedbythesidesfromweathering.

Moreover,belowthefiguresisaninscriptioninletters,thedateofwhichisunmistakable,thoughunfortunatelyitcanbeonlypartiallydeciphered.Itruns:--

........F.CALDVS.....AEPOSVIT.P...

Thethreefiguresarelife-size.Thecentraloneisverypeculiar,owing

tothemitreordiademitwears,which,however,isutterlyunliketheepiscopalmitreoftheeleventhcentury.Moreover,thereisnodoubtaboutthepersonwearingitbeingafemale.

Popularbelief,also,doesnoterrastohersex;ithasmadeamistakerelativetothatofthemanonherright,andwhensomeforty-fiveyearsagothecureofLesBauxerectedthechapelundertherock,hebelievedthatthesefiguresrepresentedtheThreeMarys.

Themanisinconsularhabit,thetoga,_nequefusanequerestricta_,worn



tillthetimeofAugustus.Hisfeetappearbeneaththetunic.Unfortunatelythefaceistoomuchweatheredtopresentanyfeatures.Notsothetall,mitredcentralfigure,whoserighthandisraised,asisthought,toholdastaffwreathedwithchaplets.Hermantle,the[Greek:himation],isclaspedontheshoulderofherrightarm.ThethirdfigureisthatofaRomanmatron.

Nowithasbeensupposed,withagreatdegreeofprobability,thatthesethreefiguresrepresentC.Marius,hiswifeJulia,andtheprophetessMartha,whoattendedhiminhiscampaignagainsttheTeutonsandAmbrons.Plutarchsays:"HehadwithhimaSyrianwomannamedMartha,whowassaidtohavethegiftofprophecy.Shewascarriedaboutinalitterwithgreatsolemnity,andthesacrificeswhichheofferedwereallbyherdirection.Whenshewenttosacrificesheworeapurplerobe,linedwiththesame,andbuttonedup,andheldinherhandaspearadornedwithribandsandgarlands."

Iconfessthatthestaffwithribandsandchapletsseenbysomeinthissculpture,werenotdistinguishablebymyself.AtthesametimeIwaspuzzledwithcertainornamentsbelowtheraisedhandofthediademedlady,whichIcouldnotexplain.Itissaidthatthestaffisonlyvisiblewhenthemorningsunstrikestheweatheredsurface.Itmaybethere--butIthinkthatafoldofdraperyhasbeenmistakenforastaff.Yet--thewreathorbucklebelowherhandinsuchacaseremainsunaccountedfor.

IfthesethreefiguresrepresentCaiusMarius,Martha,andJulia,thenwecanunderstandthenamegiventhegroup--LesTremaies--thethreeMarii;CaiusMarius,MarthaMarii,andJuliaMarii,whichhassincebeenalteredintoLesTrois'Maries,andthefiguresassumedtobethoseofMarythewifeofSalome,MaryMagdalen,andMarthathesisterofMary.Inthebeliefthatsuchisthecase,Massissaidinthechapelonthe25thofMay,andthereisaconcourseofdevoteesassembledfromtheneighbourhoodaroundthelittlechapelandmemorialstone.

Thesecondsculpturedblockliesaboutthreehundredpacestothesouth,andiscalledLesGaie,i.e.,_Caiiimagines_.ItresembleshundredsofsimilarRomanmonumentstoahusbandandwife,foundinthemuseumsof

Rome,Arles,Nimes,andAvignon.

Herealsothereisaniche,fourfeetwidebytwofeetfourincheshigh.Ontherightoftheobserverisabeardedmanholdingarollinhislefthand,andwithhisrightheclaspstherighthandofhiswife.Heisinconsularhabit;unfortunatelybothheadshavebeendamaged.AtsometimeorotheraVandalthoughtthattheupperportionoftheblockwouldservehispurposeasasteporthreshold,anddroveacrowbarintothefaceofthestonebetweenthetwoheads,andsplitoffthecap,thusexposingthesculpturetotheashoftherain.

[Illustration:LesGaie.]

Beneaththefiguresisaninscriptionnolongerlegible.Itis_possible_ thatthismonumentmayrepresentCaiusMariusandhiswifeJulia.AsomewhatlivelyFrenchimaginationhastakenthefigureofthemantobeMarthawithherstaffandmitre,butIexaminedthesculptureunderafavourablelight,andsatisfiedmyselfthatthisfigureisthatofaman.Thefacewasapparentlystruckbythecrowbar,whichhasbrokenoffafilmofthelimestone,anddestroyedthenose.

TheCalduswhosenameappearsontheTremaieisprobablyCaiusCaeliusCaldus,whobelongedtothepartyofMarius,wascreatedtribuneB.C.107,



andwhowasoneofthelieutenantsofMariusinthewaragainsttheCimbri,andsignedadisgracefultreatywiththeLigurianstosavetheremnantofthearmy,afterthedeathoftheconsulCassius.HewasnamedconsulB.C.97,andsomemedalsstruckbyhimexist.PossiblyCalduserectedthismonumentinhonourofMarius,whohadmadetheplatformofLesBauxandtherangeoftheAlpinesthevantagegroundwhencehewatchedthemarchoftheTeutonsandwhenceheswoopeddowntodestroythem.

ThegreatfigureofCaiusMariusovershadowsthewholeofProvence,anditisnotpossibleforonewhohasanyinterestinthepastnottofeelitsinfluenceandbeinspiredbyit.StirredbythesightofthesesculpturesatLesBaux,Iresolvedtogooverallthegroundofhiscampaign,Plutarchinhand,andIventuretothinkthatwhatIsawanddiscoveredwillnotonlyinterestthereader,buthelptoelucidatethehistoryofthatmemorablestruggle.

IntheyearB.C.113,thereappearedtothenorthoftheAdriatic,ontherightbankoftheDanube,avasthordeofbarbariansravagingNoricum--thepresentAustria,andthreateningItaly.Twonationsprevailed,theCimbri,Kaempir,_i.e._,warriors,perhapsScandinavian,andtheTeutons,pureGermans.Theyhadcomefromafar,fromtheCimbricpeninsula,nowJutlandandHolstein,drivenfromtheirhomesbyanirruptionofthesea.ForawhiletheyroamedoverGermany.TheconsulPapiriusCarbowasdespatchedinallhastetodefendthemenacedfrontierofItaly.Thebarbarianspleaded

tobegivenlandsonwhichtosettle.Carbotreacherouslyattackedthem,butwasdefeated.However,thehordesdidnotyetventuretocrosstheAlps.TheyinundatedtheSwissvalleys,andastheyflowedwestsweptalongwiththemotherraces,amongstwhichwasthatoftheAmbrons,aGermanrace,whosenamemeetsusagainasSicambrians,ofwhichstocklaterwasChlodovig(Clovis).WhenCloviswasabouttoenterthefont,S.Remigiusthusaddressedhim:"Bowthyhead,haughtySicambrian;adorewhatthouhastburned;burnwhatthoudidstadore."

IntheyearB.C.110alltogetherenteredGaul,andthen,continuingtheirwanderingsandravagesincentralGaul,atlastreachedtheRhoneandmenacedtheRomanprovince.There,however,thefearofRomearrestedtheirprogress;theyappliedanewforlands,butSilanus,theGovernor,answered

themhaughtily,thatthecommonwealthhadneitherlandstogivenorservicestoacceptfrombarbarians.Heattackedthemandwasdefeated.Threeconsuls,L.Cassius,C.ServiliusCaepio,andCn.Manlius,sentinallhasteagainstthem,successivelyexperiencedthesamefate.Withthebarbariansvictorybredpresumption.Theirchieftainsmet,anddeliberatedwhethertheyshouldnotforthwithcrossintoItalyandexterminateorenslavetheRomans.Scaurus,aprisoner,waspresentatthisdeliberation.Helaughedatthethreat,andcriedtohiscaptors,"Go,buttheRomansyouwillfindareinvincible."Inatransportoffuryoneofthechiefspresentranhimthroughwithhissword.HowbeitthewarningofScaurushaditseffect.ThebarbariansscouredtheRomanprovince,butdidnotasyetdaretoinvadethesacredsoilofthepeninsula.

ThentheCimbribrokeofffromtheircomradesandpassedintoSpain,asanoverswollentorrentdivides,anddispersesitswatersinalldirections.

AfterravagingSpain,theCimbrireturned,andthere-unitedhordesresolvednolongertospareItaly.TheCimbriweretoinvadeitbywayoftheBrennerpassandtheAdige,theTeutonsandAmbronsbytheMaritimeAlps.

[Illustration:CaiusMarius.(_FromabustintheVatican._)]



TheutmostterrorprevailedinRome,andthroughoutItaly.Therewasbutoneman,itwassaid,whocouldavertthedanger.ItwasMarius,low-born,butalreadyillustrious,esteemedbythesenateforhismilitarygeniusandsuccesses;swayingathiswillthepeople,whosawinhimoneofthemselves;belovedandfearedbythearmyforhisbravery,hisrigorousdiscipline,andforhisreadinesstosharewithhissoldiersalltoils,anddangers;sternandrugged,lackingeducation,eloquence,andriches,butresoluteanddexterousinthefield.Hisfatherhadbeenafarmer,andhishandshadbeenhardenedinyouthattheplough.Butasafree-bornLatinhehadbeencalledtoserveinwar,andhisskillandgeniushadadvancedhim,fromsteptostep.HewasconsulinAfricaatthetimewhensummonedtosavehiscountryfromthedangerthreateningitfromthebarbarianhordes.

OnreachingProvence,hefoundthesoldiersdemoralisedbydisaster,andwithdisciplinerelaxed.ThebarbarianshadnotasyetreachedtheRhone,theyweremovingeastslowly,andduringthewinterremainedstationary.Hehadthereforetimetoorganisehistroopsandchoosehispositions.

[Illustration:OrgonandtheDurance.]

NowtheoldGraeco-Phoenicianroadalongthecoast,thathadbeenrestoredbytheconsulCn.Domitius,andthenceforthborehisname,desertedthecoastasitapproachedthemouthsoftheRhone,theregionofmorasses,stonydeserts,lagoons,andbroadstreams;kepttotheheights,andreached

Nimes,whence,stillskirtinglagoons,itranalongthehighgroundoflimestonetoBeaucaire.TheRhonewascrossedtoTarascon,andthencetheroadfollowedtheDuranceuptoOrgon,whereitbranched;oneroadtotheleftwenttoApt,andcrossedtheAlpsintoItalybyPontGenevre,theotherturnedsouthtoAixandMarseilles.Theroad,afterwardscalledtheAurelianway,ledfromAixuptheriverAre,overalow_col_toS.Maximin,andreachedthecoastbythevalleyoftheArgens,thatflowsintotheseaatFrejus.ItwasalittledoubtfultoMariuswhichcoursethebarbarianswouldpursue.AccordinglyheformedastrongcampatErnaginum,nowS.Gabriel,attheextremelimitofthechainoftheAlpines,tothewest.

AlmostcertainlyalltheinhabitantsofArles,Tarascon,Glanum,and

Cavaillon,allGraeco-Gaulishtowns,tookrefugeontheplateauofthelimestonehills.ThebarbarianscouldnotgosouthoftheAlpines,becausethewholeregionwasdesert,orwascoveredwithlagoons.Inordertovictualhiscamp,MariussethissoldierstoworktoconveyabranchoftheDurance[1]pastErnaginumintothelagoonsbelow,andhecutachannelofcommunicationbetweentheselagoons,andopenedamouthintotheseathroughtheEtangdeGalejon.BythismeansvesselsfromRomeorMarseillescouldreachthewallsofhiscampwithsupplies.

[Footnote1:PlutarchsaystheRhone,butheisalmostcertainlymistaken.ThecanalwasafterwardsprobablythatcalledLesLonnes(lagunes),thedried-upbedofwhichcanbedistinguishedinplacesstill.ThelinefromTarascontoArlesrunsbesideitforalittleway.SeeAppendixB.]

Inthespringof102B.C.theTeutonsandAmbronspackedtheirtentsandbegantomoveeast.Thegrasshadgrownsufficientlytofeedtheirhorsesandoxen.MariusallowedthemtotraversetheRhonewithoutofferingresistance;andtheybegantheirmarchalongtheroadthatranatthefootoftheprecipitousAlpines.

Theysoonappeared,"inimmensenumbers,"saysPlutarch,"withtheirhideouslooksandtheirwildcries,"drawinguptheirchariots,andplantingtheirtentsinfrontoftheRomancamp.TheyshowereduponMarius



andhissoldierscontinualinsultanddefiance.TheRomans,intheirirritation,wouldfainhaverushedoutoftheircamp,butMariusrestrainedthem."Itisnoquestion,"saidhe,withhissimpleandconvincingcommonsense,"ofgainingtriumphsandtrophies,butofavertingthisstormofwarandofsavingItaly."

ATeutonchiefcameonedayuptotheverygatesofthecamp,andchallengedhimtofight.Mariushadhiminformedthatifhewerewearyoflife,hecouldgoandhanghimself.Asthebarbarianstillpersisted,Mariussenthimagladiator.

However,hemadehissoldiers,inregularsuccession,mountguardontheramparts,togetthemfamiliarisedwiththecries,appearance,andweaponsofthebarbarians.Themostdistinguishedofhisofficers,youngSertorius,amanwhosetragicstoryis,itself,aromance,andwhounderstoodandspokeGallicwell,penetratedinthedisguiseofaGaulintothecampoftheAmbrons,andinformedMariusofwhatwasgoingonthere.

Atlast,thebarbarians,intheirimpatience,havingvainlyattemptedtostormtheRomancampatErnaginum,strucktheirown,andputthemselvesinmotiontowardstheAlps.

Mariusfollowedthemalongtheheights,outofreach,readytorushdownontheirrear,observantoftheireverymovement.TheyreachedOrgon.There

thelimestoneprecipicesriseaswallssheerabovetheplain,nowcrownedbyachurchandacoupleofruinedcastles.ItwasprobablyfromthispointthatMariuswatchedthehordesdefilepast.Forsixwholedays,itissaid,theirbandsflowedbeforetheRomanposition.TheTeutonslookedupatthemilitaryonthecliffsandflungatthemtheinsolentquestion:"HaveyouanymessagesforyourwivesinItaly?Weshallsoonbewiththem."

Thesoldiers,stillrestrainedbyMarius,waitedtillallhadpassed,andthenthegeneralstruckhiscamp,andcrossingthedipatLamanon,wheretheoverspilloftheDurancehadoncecarrieditsrolledstonesintotheCrau,heregainedtheheightsonthefarthersideoftheTouloubre,atPelissanne,theancientPisavis.

Stillkeepingtotheheights,nowofredsandstone,MariusagaincameonthebarbariansatLesMilles,fourmilestothesouthofAix.Hehadobservedalltheirmovements,andhadseenthattheAmbronshaddetachedthemselvesfromtheTeutonsatAix,soastomakeadescentonMarseilles.PossiblyAixhadbeengivenuptoravagebytheTeutons,andtheAmbronswerebiddenfindtheirspoilinMarseilles.AtLesMillestheredsandstonecliffstandsabovetheAre,whichmakeshereasweep,leavingagreenmeadowintheloop.Here,fromundertherocksoozeforthcountlessstreams;somewere,likethoseatAix,hot;[1]nowIwillagainquotePlutarch."HereMariuspitchedonaplaceforhiscamp,unexceptionableinpointofstrength,butaffordinglittlewater;andwhenhissoldierscomplainedofthirst,hepointedtotheriverthatflowedbytheenemy'scamp,andtoldthem,'thattheymustthencepurchasewaterwiththeir

blood.''Whythen,'saidthey,'doyounotimmediatelyleadusthither,beforeourbloodisquiteparched?'Towhichhereplied,inamildertone,'SoIwill;butfirstofallletusfortifyourcamp.'

[Footnote1:WhethersoatpresentIamunabletostate,nothavingbeenabletotestthem.AllthehotspringshavebeenreducedintemperatureconsiderablysinceRomantimes.]

"Thesoldiers,thoughwithsomereluctance,obeyed.Butthecamp-followers,beingingreatwantofwaterforthemselvesandtheircattle,ranincrowds



tothestream,somewithpick-axes,somewithhatchets,andsomewithswordsandjavelins,alongwiththeirpitchers;fortheywereresolvedtohavewater,evenifforcedtofightforit.Thesewere,atfirst,encounteredbyonlyasmallpartyoftheenemy;forofthemainbody,some,havingbathed,wereengagedatdinner,andotherswerestillbathing,thecountrythereaboundinginhotwells.ThisgavetheRomansachanceofcuttingoffanumberofthem,whiletheywereindulgingthemselvesinthesedelightfulbaths.Theircrybroughtotherstotheirassistance,sothatnowitwasnolongerpossibleforMariustorestraintheimpetuosityofhissoldiers,whowereuneasyforthefateoftheirservants.Besides,theseweretheAmbrons,whohaddefeatedManliusandCaepio,thattheysawbeforethem."Thecontestbecamegeneral.TheAmbronsrushedacrosstheriver,yelling"Ambra!Ambra!"theirwar-cry,whichwasatonceretortedonthembyabodyofauxiliariesintheRomancamp,whoheardtheirowncryandname.Afterafuriousengagement,theRomansremainedvictors,thelittleriverArebeingchokedwiththebodiesofthebarbarians.

ThosewhoretreatedtotheircampwerepursuedbytheRomans.Therethewomen,withloudcries,armedthemselves,andmadeadesperateresistance,catchingattheswordswiththeirnakedhands,andsufferingthemselvestobehackedtopieces.

ThenightwasspentbytheRomansinsomealarm,forthoughtheyhaddefeatedtheirfoesandpenetratedtotheircamp,yettheyhadnottimeto

fortifytheirownposition;andtheydreadedlesttheAmbronsshouldmakeheadduringthenight,calltheTeutonstotheirassistance,andchargeupthehill."AcrywasheardfromthedefeatedAmbronsallthroughthenight,notlikethesighsandgroansofmen,butlikethehowlingandbellowingofwildbeasts."

Twodaysafterthisasecondanddecisivebattleensued.ThenarrativeinPlutarchisalittleconfused,anditisonlybyfamiliaritywiththesitesthatthewholestorybecomesunfoldedclearlybeforeus.Thus,itisonlyonthespotthatoneseeshowitwasthatMarius,strikingfromthechainoftheAlpines,cameupoveragainsttheAmbronsonthehillaboveLesMilles,andhowhepursuedhiscoursethence.Plutarch,thoughhespeaksofthetwobattles,doesnotdistinguishthesiteseffectually.

TheTeutons,asalreadysaid,weremakingtheirwayeastfromAix.TheroadranthroughthebroadbasinoftheAre;tothenorthrise,precipitously,thebaldwhiteprecipicesofthelimestoneMontVictoire,totheheightof3,000feet,withnotaledgeonthesideswhereashrubcanfindroot.Betweenthesecliffsandtheplainare,however,twolowsandstoneridges,thehigherofwhichformsanarc,anddivesintothewallofMontVictoire,abouthalfwaythroughtheplain.Onthesouthernsideoftheriverarelowhills;attheextremenorth-eastisaconicalgreenhillnamedPaindeMunition,whichisfortifiedmuchliketheHerefordBeacon,withwallsinconcentricrings.Tothesouth-eastisthechainofMontAurelien,andthere,ontheMontOlympe,isanotherfortifiedposition,beneathwhichisthetownofTrets,anancientRomansettlement.

[Illustration:MontVictoireandthePlainofPourrieres.]

NowthebarbariansfollowedtheroadonthenorthsideoftheriverAre,totheRomanstationonitnamedTegulata,thefirststationoutofAix,theirnumbersswelledbythediscomfitedAmbrons.Marius,however,beingatLesMilles,crossedtheriver,andkepttothesouthsideofittillhereachedTrets.Thenhehadafortifiedpositioninhisrear,thecampofMontOlympe;moreover,thebarbarianswereencampedonthreetoftsofredsandstoneonthenorthsideoftheriver,atthestationTegulata,with,at



theirback,theRomanfortifiedpositionof_PanisAnnonae_,nowcalledPaindeMunition,whereonemayconjectureMariushadhisstoresandreserves.Theywereprobablyunawareofthetrapintowhichtheyhadwalked.Marius,however,haddespatchedonthedaybeforeClaudiusMarcellus,withthreethousandmen,upthelongvalleyoftheInfernet,tothenorthsideofMontVictoire,soastoreachandstrengthenthefortressofPanisAnnonae,andsecurehisstores,andnextdaytodescendtheheightandfallontherearoftheenemy.

TheslopesalongwhichMariusmarchedwereprobablywell-wooded,andhewasunobservedbytheTeutons.

TheyhadspentonewholedayinpacingalongthestraightflatRomanroadunderMontVictoire.AstheyapproachedthestationTegulata,asingularblood-redsplashonthewhitesidesofMontVictoireemergedfrombehindthelowerwoodedsandstoneroad,asignalofwarningtothemthattheywereapproachingaplaceofperil.Moreover,thesandstonedeepenedincolour,tillatTegulatathelittlestreamsthatoozedfromunderthesandstoneranlikebloodabouttheirfeet.Ofthesetheycouldnotdrink,thereforetheyhaltedatTegulata,wheretheyagainreachedtheriver,andwheretherewasabridge;theythereencampedonthethreetoftsalreadymentioned,thesurfacesofwhichareofhard,dry,yellowsandstone,superposedonbedsoffriableredsand.Heretheriverflowedsparklingandclear,andsuppliedthemwithwhatwatertheyrequired.Everythingpointstothisspotas

theircamp.Itisoneday'smarchfromAix.Itisthefirstpointatwhichdrinkablewaterisreached.Thesandstonetoftsstandupabovetheplain,thenundrainedandmarshy,asadrybasefortheirtents.Finally,themonumentofMariusisoppositethem,onthefarthersideoftheriver.

[Illustration:Sketchplanofthebattlefields.]

InthemeantimetheRomanshadapproachedfromthesouth,fromTrets,makingaslightdetour,followingthetacticsofMariusasbefore,tokeeptothesouthofthehorde,andwithnowariverbetweenhimandthem.AtTretsthegroundinclinesfromsouthtonorth,withabrokenedgeofsandstone--invisiblefromtheriver,servingasascreenbehindwhichtroopscouldbemassedunperceived.Hereitwas,Isuspect,thatMarius

passedthatspringnight,thesecondafterthedefeatoftheAmbrons.Thebrokenedgeofsandstoneisnoteighteenfeethigh.Fromthetopthegroundslopesdownforamile,andthenensuesagullycutinthesandstonebyasmallblood-redconfluentoftheAre.Anothermile,ormileandahalfbeyond,istheriver,andclosetotheriver,onthefartherbank,wasthecampoftheTeutons.

Onthemorningofthe23rdMarch[1]theRomancavalrywerediscoveredbytheTeutonsdrawnupontheslope.

[Footnote1:MyreasonforfixingthedayIshallgiveinthesequel.]

"Onseeingthis,unabletocontainthemselves,"saysPlutarch,"norstay

tilltheRomanswerecomedownintotheplain,theyarmedthemselveshastilyandadvancedupthehill.Mariussentofficersthroughoutthearmy,withordersthattheyshouldawaittheonslaughtoftheenemy.Whenthebarbarianswerewithinreach,theRomansweretohurltheirjavelins,thendrawtheirswords,andadvance,pressingtheenemybackbytheirshields.Fortheplacewassoslipperythattheenemy'sblowscouldhavelittleweight,norcouldtheypreservecloseorder,wherethedeclivityofthegroundmadethemlosetheirbalance."Onecanseeexactlywherethistookplace,itwaswheretheconfluentoftheAreformedanaturalprotectiontothepositionoftheRomans;thehollowcutinthegreasyredmarlwastoo



insignificanttopreventtheTeutonsfromattemptingtopassit,butwassufficienttobreaktheirorder,andtogivetheRomansthefirstadvantageoverthem.

Havingdrivenbacktheassailants,theRomansnowcrossedthenaturalmoatandboredownontheTeutons.Atthesamemomentthewell-designedmanoeuvreofMarius,indespatchingMarcellustothefortonPanisAnnonae,produceditsresult.Marcellushaddescendedthehill,screenedbythetrees,andhadsuddenlyfallenontherearofthecampoftheTeutons.

Thusattacked,bothinfrontandintherear,thebarbarianswereseizedwithpanic.Afrightfulcarnageensued.Noquarterwasgiven.Womenandchildrenweremowndown;thedogsfuriouslydefendingtheirmasters'bodieswerealsoslaughtered.

[Illustration:MonumentofMarius,PositionofMarius,Treta.]

"Afterthebattle,Mariusselectedfromamongthearmsandotherspoilssuchaswereelegantandentire,andlikelytomakethemostbrilliantshowinhistriumph.Theresthepiledtogether,andofferedthemasasplendidsacrificetothegods.Thearmystoodaroundthehillcrownedwithlaurel;andhehimself,arrayedinapurplerobe,girtafterthemanneroftheRomans,heldalightedtorch.Hehadjustraiseditwithbothhandstowardsheaven,andwasabouttosetfiretothepyre,whensomemenwereseen

approachingatagallop.Greatsilenceandexpectationfollowed.Ontheircomingup,theyleapedfromtheirhorsesandsalutedhimwiththetitleofConsulforthefifthtime,andpresentedletterstothesamepurport.Thisaddedjoytothesolemnity,whichthesoldiersexpressedbyacclamationsandbyclankingofarms;and,whiletheofficerswerepresentingMariuswithnewcrownsoflaurel,hesetfiretothepile,andfinishedthesacrifice."

AccordingtosomeaccountsthenumberofTeutonsslainnumberedtwohundredthousand,andthatoftheprisonersisstatedtohavebeeneightythousand.Themostmoderatecomputationoftheslainisfixedatonehundredthousand.Inanycasethecarnagewasgreat,forthebattle-field,whereallthecorpsesrestedwithoutburial,rottinginthesunandrain,gotthe

nameof_CampiPutridi_,theFieldsofPutrefaction,anamestilltraceableinthatofPourrieres,theneighbouringvillage.

[Illustration:VenusVictrix.]

Onthesiteofthebattle,onthesouthbankoftheriver,overagainstthecampoftheenemy,wherealsowasthepyreinwhichthewaggons,chariots,armsandvestureoftheinvaderswasconsumed,amonumenttoMariuswaserected,whichwastolerablyperfectbeforetheFrenchRevolution,butwhichnowpresentsamassofruins.Itconsistsofaquadrangularblockofmasonry,measuringfifteenfeetoneachside,withinanenclosingwallfourteenfeetdistant.Thisquadrangularblocksustainedapyramid,withstatuesattheangles,asitstillfiguresuponthearmsoftheCommune

andonsomeRenaissancetapestryinaneighbouringchateau.Here,threeorfouryearsago,wasfoundabeautifulstatueinParianmarbleofVenusVictrix,unfortunatelywithoutheadandarms,butquiteofthebestGreekworkmanship.ThecityofAvignonboughtitoftheproprietorofthefieldforonethousandeighthundredfrancs,anditisnowoneoftheprincipalornamentsoftheAvignonMuseum.Thestatue,tomymind,provesthatthismonumentwasraisedbyJuliusCaesar;thereisanindirectcomplimenttohisownfamilyinit.VenuswastheancestressoftheJulianrace,andCaesarperhapsinsinuated,ifheerectedthestatue,thatthesuccessofMariuswasduetothepatronageofthedivineancestressandprotectressofthe



Julianrace,andofJuliusCaesar'saunt,thewifeofMarius,quiteasmuchastothegeniusinwarofMariushimself.

Weknow,moreover,thatthetrophieserectedtoMariusforhisCimbricandTeutonicvictorieswereoverthrownbySulla,andthattheywerere-erectedbyJuliusCaesarinA.D.65.

TheanniversaryofthebattlewasannuallycelebratedinalittletemplededicatedtoVenusVictrixontheapexofMontVictoire,thatoverhangstheplain.

WhenProvencebecameChristianthetemplewasconvertedintoachapel,VenusVictrixbecametransformedintoS.Victoria;andtheprocessionremainedunaltered,theinhabitantsoftheneighbouringvillagesascendedthemountainbearingboughsofbox,whichtheywavedandshouted"Victoire!Victoire!"Onreachingthechapel,Masswascelebrated.ThistookplaceannuallyonMarch23rdtilltheRevolution,whenthechapelwassufferedtofallintoruin.Iwasonthebattlefieldonthedaywhichistraditionallyheldtohavebeenthatwhenthisdecisivebattletookplace.Abrilliantday.Thefrogswerecroakinginthemarshesanddykes,thetonesofsomelikethecawingofyoungrooks.Thegroundwasstrewnwithgrape-hyacinth,andwhitestarofBethlehem,therockswerecoveredwithrosemaryinpalegreybloom,thegoldenchainsofthebroomwavingovertheblood-redsandstonerocks.

Thatthetraditioniscorrect,orapproximatelyso,Ithinkprobable,fortowardstheendofMarchwouldbethesuitabletimeforthebarbarianstosetthemselvesinmotionfortheinvasionofItaly.Sufficientgrasscouldbehadfortheirhorsesandcattle,andtheywoulddesiretoreachtheplainsofItalybeforethegreatsummerheats.

[Illustration:MarchofS.Victoire(23rdMarch).HarmonisedbyF.W.BUSSELL,Esq.,M.A.]

Italkedagooddealtopeasantsworkinginthefields.Theywereallofonemindastowherethebattlehadraged--fromnorthtosouth,theysaid,betweenTretsandPourrieres.Thetraditionisonlyworthanythinginthat

itisbasedonthefactthatalongthislinethegreatestamountofweaponshasbeenturnedupbythespade,andpick,andplough.[1]AFrenchwriter,referredtointhefootnote,saysthatifalittlerilltricklingintotheArebeexaminedwhereitflowsin,oppositethemonumentofMarius,thebankswillbefoundatfirsttobefullofbrokenRomanpottery,butifthecourseofthestreambepursuedalittlefartherupitwillbefoundtoflowthroughbedsofcharcoalandmoltenmassesofmetal--clearlythesiteofthepyreraisedbyMarius.Iaccordinglysearchedthelocality.Ifoundthepottery,andpickedoutfragmentsofSamianware;thebankisfromthreetoninefeetdeepinthem.Fartheron,Icame,asM.Gillessaid,toremainsofcharcoalandcinder.Iwasperplexed.Ifollowedthestreamfartherup,andfoundthatitcrossedaroadthatwasmetalledforhalfamilewithcinder,andthatthecinderlayontheroadandontheroadonly.

Iinstitutedinquiriesandascertainedthatthiswasallbroughtfromasteammillamileandahalfoffalongthisroad.Butthoughtheseremainsofcharcoalandscoriaarenotancient,yetthelittlerilldoesoozefromtheplateauonwhichIbelieveMariusraisedthepyre.Itisexactlyoppositehismonument,betweenhispositionandthePanisAnnonae,whencesweptdownMarcelluswithhiscavalry.Itwasthesiteatonceofthecampandofthepyre.Noremainscouldpossiblybefoundonitofcamporpyre,asthesandstoneisinconstantdisintegration,andthewholesurfacehasbeenmanytimeswashedbareandrenewedduringthenineteenhundredandninety-twoyearsthathaveelapsedsincethebattle.



[Footnote1:M.Gilles,"CampagnedeMariusdanslaGaule,"Paris,1870,thinksthatMariuspursuedtheTeutonsalongtheAurelianroad,andthatthebattlewasfoughtonthenorthsideoftheriver.Idonotholdthis.ThemonumentofMariusisonthesouthside,andIthinkhewouldnaturallysecureafortifiedcampinhisrear.]

ThestoryhowMarius,havingdestroyedthehordesofAmbronsandTeutons,andsecuredItalyonthewest,returnedtothePeninsula,andfindingthattheCimbriwerestreamingdownfromthenorth-east,metthemnearVercellae,andtheredefeatedandslaughteredthemalso,Ileaveforotherpenstodescribe.ThatbattletookplaceonJuly30th.

*****

Ihavegiven(_ante_,pp.152,153)whatmayinterestthemusicalreader,thetraditionalmarchperformedonthedayofthebattleofPourrieres,whenthepilgrimsascendedthemountaintoreturnthanksforthevictoryofMarius.

CHAPTERXI.

TRETSANDGARDANNE.

ThefortificationsofTrets--Thestreets--Thechurch--Romansarcophagus--ChateauofTrets--Visittoaself-educatedarchaeologist--Hiscollectionmadeonthebattle-field--Disputeoverapotofburntbones--Onemagpie--Gardanne--Thechurch--Avielle--Troublewithit--Storyofanexecutioner'ssword.

[Illustration:Trets.]

Tretsisanoddlittleplace,surroundedbyitsancientwallsandtowers,andwithitsgates--but,oh!ifanyonewouldknowwhatacramped,unwholesomeplaceoneoftheseoldmediaevalburghswas,lethimvisitTrets.Thestreetsaresomefourandsomefivefeetacross;inthreadingthemyoupassunderasuccessionofarchways,foreveryhousedesiringmorespacehasthrustforthacoupleofstoreysoverthestreet,sustainedbyanarch.Theexhalationsfromthedirt-heaps,thefoulnessofeveryhouse,thegeneralconditionoftumble-down,composeasomethingtomakeasanitaryofficer'shairstandonend.Butitisverywonderful.Carcassonneismarvellous,butthisisCarcassonneseenthroughadiminishingglass.

Tretshasanancientchurch,butthathasatowerinruins,anditisamarveltothevisitorhowthattheraindoesnotenterandsousethe

interiorandcongregation,sodilapidatedisthewholestructure.InthebasementofthetowerisawhitemarblesculpturedRomansarcophagus;onitaretheheadsofhusbandandwife,supportedbygenii.Withinthechurchisaslabbearingrecordoftheconsecration,A.D.1051.

Thetownhasastatelychateau,nowabandonedtothepoorandcutupintosmallhabitations.Thereisinitagrandstonestaircasewithornamentalplasterceilingsontheseverallandings;onerepresentsaboarhunt,theotheranostrichchase.



Inthechateaulivesaminer,aM.Maneil,whoisanenthusiasticarchaeologist.ThepublicanofthelittleinnatTretstoldmeofhim:ofhow,whenhisworkisover,andotherlabouringmencometothecabaretorthecafe,hespendshistimeinprowlingoverthebattle-fieldofPourrieres,searchingforantiquities,andhowhehoardsuphislittlesavingstobuybooksthatdealwitharchaeologicalsubjects.

ItwastoseeM.ManeilthatIvisitedthechateau.Hehasarichcollectionofobjects.Icountedtwenty-fourstonehatchets,andsomethinglikethreehundredbeadsstrungfornecklaces,flintarrow-headsinlargenumbers,alsomanybronzeimplements,aquern,piercedshells,severalsculpturedstonesfoundinDolmens,andagreatmanyRomancoins.Itisthecollectionofalife,madebyanenthusiast,andoughttobeacquiredbythemuseumofAix.InthemairieatTretsisanurnfullofcalcinedbones,inverygoodcondition.ItwasfoundbytwoboyssomelittlewhileagoinatumulusonthesideoftheroadtoPuyloubier.Thefarmerwhoselanditwason,hearingofthediscovery,andconcludingthatsomethingprecioushadbeenfound,broughtanactionagainsttheyouthfularchaeologists,andstrovetorecoverthetreasure.Afterahard-foughtbattleheobtainedhisrights.Theywereforcedtosurrendertheiracquisition--acrock--and,tothedisgustofthefarmer,itcontainednotacoinofanysort,onlybones.Sohehasleftitinthemairie,inthehopesthatsomeonewillbeinducedtobuyit,andsocontributeatrifletowardstheheavyexpensesofthetrial.

[Illustration:Gardanne.]

Now,asIwaswalkingfromthefieldofPourrierestoTrets,onesolitarymagpieappearedonmyleft,flewalittleway,lighted,andflewonfarther,andaccompaniedmethusforhalfthejourney."Oneisforsorrow."Mymindimmediatelyrecurredtohome--towifeandchildren.Whathadorwouldhappen?Influenza--wouldthatdecimatetheflock?orafire--wouldthatconsumemybooksandpictures?Nothinghappensbuttheunexpected.NeverforonemomentdidIobtainaglimpse,no,nothalfaglimpse,intothetroubleinstoreforme,whichwastoarise,notfromthelossofanything,butoutofanacquisition.

FromTretsIwentonbytraintoGardanne,watchingtheeveninglightsdieuponthesilver-greyprecipicesofMontVictoire.AtGardanneIhadtochange,andkickmyheelsfortwohours.Gardanneisapicturesquelittletown,builtonahillroundacastleinruinsandachurchverymuchrestored.SorestoreddidthechurchseemtobefromthebottomofthehillthatIdoubtedwhetheritwouldbeworthavisit.Gardanneissurroundedbybroadboulevardsplantedwithtrees.Now,nosoonerhasonepassedinward,fromthisboulevard,thanonefindsaconditionofaffairsonlyalittlelessdreadfulthanthatatTrets.

Gardannewasawalledtown,butallthewallshavebeentransformedintothefacesofhouses,innsandcafes,plasteredandpaintedandsodisguisedasnottorevealtheirorigintillonepassesbehindthem.Thenoneis

involvedinalabyrinthofnarrow,darklanesscramblingupthehill,runninginandoutamongthehouses,pavedwithcobblestonesinsomeplaces,inothersresolvingthemselvesintoflightsofbrokensteps.

Onscramblingtotheterraceonwhichthechurchstandsontheapexofthehill,Isawthatitwasofveryremarkablewidth,allunderonelowgable--certainlyextraordinarilyugly,andnewlyplastered,markedoutinshamblocksofstone,andmadeashideousastheingenuityofmancouldwellachieve.However,Ienteredthewestdoor,andpassedintoalmostcompletedarkness,onlyrelievedbythepaschalcandlethatwasburningat



asidealtarandtheredlampinthechoir.

Asmyeyesbecameaccustomedtothegloom,IdiscoveredtomysurprisethatIhadenteredaveryinterestingeleventh-centurychurch,offiveaisles,allunderoneroof,withoutclerestory.Buttheeveninglightthroughthesmallstainedwindowsdidnotsuffermetomakeoutanydetails.Theeastendofthechurchrisesfromthecragonwhichitisbuilt,withoutanywindowinit.

OnleavingthetopofthehillanddescendingintothetownImetmyfateintheformofawomanwhowasplayingahurdy-gurdy,andsingingtoitsstrainsaProvencalballad.Istoppedatonce,andaskedhertoletmeinvestigatetheinstrument.Ihaveafancyforancientmusicalinstruments.Ahandleisturnedthatgratesononecatgutstring,andthefingersofthelefthand,passedunderthehurdy-gurdy,touchnotesthatstopthestringatvariouslengths,andsovarythetone.

[Illustration:TheVielle.]

Shetoldmetheinstrumentwascalledthevielle,infact--ouroldEnglishviol;averyancientinstrument,whichisrepresentedasbeingplayedbyoneoftheminstrelssculpturedontheeastfrontofLauncestonParishChurch,circ.1525.OnacapitalatS.GeorgesdeBoscherville,inNormandy,isaneleventh-centuryrepresentationofahugehurdy-gurdy

restingonthekneesoftwoperformers.Oneturnsthehandle,theotherplaysonthekeys.Mr.ChappellatonetimebelieveditwastheoldEnglish _Rote_,from_rota_,awheel,butchangedhismindlater,andshowedthattherotehadaholethroughit,whichenabledittobeplayedwithbothhandslikealyreorharp,andderiveditsnamefromtheAnglo-Saxon"rott"--cheerful.

ThisbranchofarchaeologybeingoneinwhichIwasparticularlyinterested,nothingwouldsufficemebutbuyingtheviolofthewoman;andhavingacquiredit,Islungitroundmyneckbyaverydirtyblueribbon,andhastenedtothestationtocatchmytraintoAix.

NowonlydidIdiscoverwhatthemagpieportended,forwiththeacquisition

ofthathurdy-gurdymylifebecameaburdentome.IcouldnotpackitintomyGladstonebag.Icouldnotfolditupwithmyrugs.Iwasforcedtotravelwithitslungroundmyneck.Naturally,inarailwaycarriageIwasaskedtoperformonthesingularinstrument--butIwasincapableofdoingthis.Fellowtravellersdisbelievedinmystatement.WhydidIwanderthroughProvence,thelandoftroubadours,ifIwerenotroubadour?SurelyIwassulky--notincapable;unwillingtooblige--notunabletodoso.WhenIarrivedatanhotel--especiallylateintheevening--Ifoundthehostdoubtfulaboutreceivingme.Helookedatmybag,thenatmyhurdy-gurdy,thenscrutinisedmyboots;wantedtoknowwhatpricedroomsIrequired;mustconsultmadam.Ontherailwayplatformagain,Ifoundmyselfanobjectofattentiontocertainmeninplainclothes,withkeensearchingeyes--and,asIshallrelateinthesequel,broughtoneofthemdownonme.

VexedthatIwasunabletopassthetedioustimeinthetrainwithatuneonmyvielle,andentertainmyfellowtravellers,Ibegantopractiseonitinmyroomatnight.Thenthefellowinmatescomplained:theysenttheircomplimentsanddesiredtoknowwhethertherewerewildbeastsnextdoor--theyobjectedtobelodgednearamenagerie.

Myexperienceswiththehurdy-gurdyrecalltomymemorysomeothersIwentthroughafewyearsago.



OnoneoccasionIspentawinterinacityinthesouthofGermany,whereImadetheacquaintanceofanantiquarywhowasveryoldandbedridden,andhadnorelations,noonetocareforhimbutanoldhousekeeper.Themanhadbelongedtothetown-council,andhadspenthislifeincollectingcuriositiesconnectedwiththehistoryofhistown.Amonghistreasuresabovehisbed,wasthecityexecutioner'ssword,muchnotched.Thisswordwassixfeetlong,withahugehandle,tobegraspedwithtwohands,andwithanironornamentedknobascounterpoiseattheendofthehandle.

Howlifeismadeupoflostopportunities!HowmuchofthecriminalhistoryofthecitymightInothavelearned,ifIhadpaidlongervisitstoHerrSchreiber,andlistenedtohisaccountofthenotchesintheblade,toeachofwhichaghastlyhistoryattached.Buttheantiquary'sbedroommeasuredfifteenfeetbyseven,andthewindowwashermeticallysealed;moreover,therewasastoveintheroom,and--HerrSchreiberhimself,always.

"Ach,meinHerr!doyouseedisgreatpiecebrokenoutofdeblade?Datvascausedbyavoman'sneck.Deexecutionercouldnotcutitdrough;herneckvasharderdanhissword.Shevasaveryvickedvoman;shepoisonedherfader.--Doyouseedislittelnick?DisvasmadebyagreattratertotheKaiserandVaterland.Ivilltellyouallaboutit."

Ineverheardallthestories:IshouldhavebeensuffocatedhadIstayedtolisten;butIfound,wheneverIcalledonmyfriend,thatmyeyes

invariablyturnedtothesword--itwassohuge,itwassonotched,andhadsuchagruesomehistory.PooroldSchreiber,Iknew,wouldhavetobowhisneckbeforelongunderthescytheofTime.Howhehungoninthatstuffyroomunderthegreatswordsolongwasamarveltome,andwouldbepronouncedimpossiblebysanitaryauthoritiesinEngland.Nevertheless,hedidliveonforatwelvemonthafterIleftthetown.Whenabouttodepart,IsaidtotheEnglishchaplain:"OldSchreibercan'tlastlong;hemustsmothershortly.Keepaneyeontheswordforme,there'sagoodfellow.Hehaslefteverythingtothehousekeeper."

Atwelvemonthafter,asIwasabouttoleaveEnglandforarunintoBohemia,Igotaletterfromthechaplain:"Schreiberisdead.Ihavethesword."Iwiredatoncetohim:"SenditmetomyinnatAix-la-Chapelle.

Willpickituponmywayhome."

SoIwentonmywayrejoicing,ascendedtheRhinetoMainz,trainedtoNuremberg,andpassedthroughthegapoftheBohemianmountain-chaintoPilsen,andontoPrague.AftersixweeksinBohemiaandSilesia,IdescendedtheRhinetoAix-la-Chapelle,andarrivedatmyinn.

"Dereisvunvunderfulchestcomeforyou,"saidthelandlord."Vevasnotverycomfortabletotakehimin.Vekeephim,dough."

Andnowonder.Thechestwasshapedsomewhatlikethecoffinofaverytallman.

"Vatishhe?Hehavebeenherefourveekanddoedays.--Dereisnoschmell."

"Icannottakethatthing--Ireallycannot.Itispreposterous.Howcouldthechaplainhaveputmyswordintothehandsofanundertaker?--Getmeahammer;Iwillknockthecasetopieces."

Now,therewasareasonwhythechestshouldassumetheshapeofacoffin--thatwas,becauseofthecrosspiecebetweenthehandleandtheblade.Mynameandaddresswereonthelid,attheplacewhereusuallygoes



theso-called"breast-plate."

Thehostofmyinn,thewaiters,theporter,theboots,allstoodinbreathlesscuriositytoseetheboxopened,andwhentheswordwasexposed--"Ach!"exclaimedthehostgravely,"Ivasright--derevasnoschmell,becausederecouldbenoschmell."

Icouldnotseetheforceofthisreasoning,rememberingHerrSchreiber'sroom,andhowlongtheswordhadbeeninit;andallowingthatthereisnoporosityintemperedsteel,still,theblackvelvetcasingofthehandlemighthaveabsorbedaconsiderableamountofSchreiberianbacteria,bacilli,orwhateveritisthatphysiologistsasserttobesonastyandsoubiquitous,andsosetonfindingoutourweakplacesandhittingusthere,asswordfish"go"atwhales.

Ihadgotmyswordoutofitscoffin,buthadnotconsideredwhattodowithitnext,andIfoundmyselfinasgreatadifficultyasbefore.Igotaportertoconveyitformetothestation,andheplaceditinthefirst-classwaiting-roomwiththeironcounterpoiseonthefloor,besideadivan,andleanedthetipofthebladeagainstthewall.Thereitwasallowedtoremain;andIwalkedabout,pretendingthatitdidnotbelongtome.Presently,awell-dressed,verystatelylady--shewasa_Graefin_ (countess)--camein,stalkedtothedivan,andseatedherselfonit,veryupright,withoutobservingthesword.Sheopenedareticuleandproduceda

lace-edgedhandkerchief,withwhichsheproceededtodustthevelvetofherdress,andinsodoing,withtheendofherdelicately-shodfoot,touchedthecounterpoise.Atoncethesword-bladebegantograteagainstthewall.Shelookedupsuddenly,sawthehugenotchedexecutioner'ssworddescendinguponherbowedneck,utteredalittlescream,sprangtoherfeetandran,fleetasarabbit,acrossthewaiting-room;whilstdownitsfulllengthafterherwithaclangfelltheweapon--followedbyaburstoflaughterfromeveryoneintheroombutthecountess.

Afterthis,Itooktheswordupandmarchedontheplatformwithitatmyside.ThisIwillsayforit--that,consideringitssizeandweight,itiseasilycarried;fornotonlyistherethecrosspieceashand-guard,butabovethisisacrescentworkedintheiron,thehornsextendingwiththe

convexitytowardsthepointoftheblade.Byputtingacoupleoffingersunderthesehorns,theswordiscarriedattheside,pommeldownwards,bladeup,withperfectease,thebalanceissotrue.Somedifficultyattendedthegettingintothecarriagewiththesword;Ihadtoenterbackwardsandbringmyswordinafterme,passengerskeepingjudiciouslyoutofitsreachtillitwassafelybroughtwithin.

NottheDouvres-Calaisthatday!onlythathorriblelittlenarrowboatthatalwaysupsetsme--andI--suchanheroicbeing,bearingthemightymediaevalsword,anobjectofwonderandquestioningtosailors,_douaniers_,passengersalike.Asithappened,Iwasthesoleindividualonboardwhoseinnerorganshadnottheirsea-legsonthisoccasion.Ilayonabenchupondeck,huggingmyexecutioner'ssword,andfaintlycalling:"Abasin

please!"Tworuffians--Icancallthem,nothingelse--pacedthedeck,smoking,andpassedmeeveryfortyseconds.Ifthereisathingwhichtumblesahumanbeingofahighly-strungnervoustemperamentoverwhenhefeelssqueamish,itistheoccasionalwhiffofacigar.Then,addedtotheoccasionalwhiff,wereoccasionalcatchesofderogatoryremarks,whichcamehometomeasunpleasantlyasdidthetobacco:"Achapwithaswordlikethatshouldliveuptoit,andnotgroveloverabasin."--AndaquotationfromtheBurialofSirJohnMoore:"Helaylikeawarriortakinghisrest."

Myspine,withthepitchingandvibrationofthevessel,feltnotlike



aspinalcolumn,butlikealoosestringofbeads.IfbyswallowingtheswordIcouldhaveacquiredstamina,Ishouldhavetriedit;butIdidnotthinkIcouldkeepitdown.Atlength,withapastyface,blear-eyes,liver-colouredlips,abatteredhat,adrippingandtornwaterproof,reeling,holdingmyticketinmyteeth,theswordinonehandandmyportmanteauintheother,lookinglikeadynamitardeveryinch,andatoncepouncedonandoverhauledbythepoliceandcustoms-officers,Istaggeredashore.HavingthatswordwasasmuchasproclaimingthatIhadinfernalmachinesaboutmesomewhere,andevenmypocketswerenotsacred.Havingturnedoutallmyinsidesatsea,Ihadtoturnoutmyexteriorpocketsandportmanteaunow.Itwasmonstrous.Thatwasnotall.Iamsureadetectivefollowedmetotown.WhenIgotintoahansomatCharingCross,theswordwouldgonowhereexceptbetweenmyknees,withthebladeshootingupbetweenthereinsofthedriver,highabovethetopoftheconveyance.IcausedgreatamusementasIdrovethroughthestreetsofLondonthus.

Theswordisatrestnow,lodgedonmystaircase,andofonethingIamsure:nooneislikelytorunawaywithit.Ihavelostcuriositiestootemptingforspecialiststokeeptheirfingersfrom;butnoonewillcarryawaymysword.Ishallgo,buttheswordwillremain.

CHAPTERXII.

AIX.

Dooll,butthemuttongood--LesBainsdeSextius--Ironworkcapstotowers--S.JeandeMalthe--Museum--Cathedral--Tapestriesandtombs--Thecloisters--ViewfromS.Eutrope--KingReneofAnjou--Hismisfortunes--Hischeeriness--HisstatueatAix--IntroducestheMuscatgrape.

Ihadafriend,aparson,agoodfellow,whowassomeyearsagoinCumberland,wherehewasconcernedaboutthespiritualconditionofthe

neighbouringparsons.Amongtheselatterwasone,verybucolic,withaheavyredface.Myfriendurgedhimtotakeadvantageofa"retreat,"thatisagatheringofclergyfordevotionandmeditation,thatwastotakeplaceinCarlisle.Aftersomepersuasiontheheavy-souledparsonagreedtogo,andmydeargoodfriendhopedthatsomesparkofspiritualzealmightbethuskindledinhim.

Whentheretreatwasatanendhebutton-holedhim,andasked,"Well,howdidyougeton?"

"Dooll,varrydooll!"repliedtheheavysoul,"Ishudha'leftlongago,but--themuttonwasgood."

Ihadgoneforacoupleofweekstocommercialinns,andnowthatIvisitedAixIthoughtIwouldliketoseeanotheraspectofGalliclife,soIwenttotheHoteldesBaindeSextius,andtookaplungeintothesocietyofpatientsdrinkingwatersandtakingbaths.ImaysayofthatsocialphaseintheBain,thatitwas"dooll,varrydooll,butthemuttonwasgood."Iwasafooltogothere;ofcourseonecannotexpectpeoplewiththeirliversandtheirspleens,andtheirentireinternaltubularmechanismoutoforder,tobechirpyandfrolicsome.Therewereagoodmanyladiesthere,pale,Icouldnotquitemakeoutwhetherfromill-healthorfromviolet-powder;butIthinkthelatterhadsomethingtodowiththeir



pallor,for,afterdrinking,whentheywipedtheirlips,rosesbegantobloom,whereverthenapkintouched.Theyliveduptotheirappearance,naturalorapplied,theywere"mild-eyed,melancholy,lotus-eaters,"towhomitwas"alwaysafternoon."Thegentlemenwereequallysad,stillandforlorn.Butthemuttonwasgood.Thefeedingleftlittletobewishedfor.

Aixliesinagreenbasinofhills,atalittledistancefromtheriverAre,clusteredaboutthehotspringsthatriseatthejunctionoftheporphyryandthelimestone.TheywerecertainlyhotterwhenAixwasfoundedbyCaiusSextiusCalvinus,B.C.123,toserveasaprotectiontotheGreeksofMarseillesagainsttheattacksoftheSalyes.Romancolonistswereplantedthere,consequentlyinracedistinctfromtheMassalliotes.IcannotsaythattheGreektypelingersinMarseilles,certainlythewomenwhohoverabouttheVieuxportareasuglyaswomencanwellbe,norhavethenativesofAixapeculiarlyRomancharacteroffaceandhead.TheonlypeoplewhoretainanydistinguishingfeaturesoftheirancestryarethoseofArles,ofwhomIhavealreadytold.

Aixhaslostitsoldwallsandtowerswithinthelasttwentyyears.Ithasgoodboulevardsandshadedwalks,andintheoldpartsofthetownmanycharmingbits.Mostcharmingperhapsaretheironcrownstotwoofthetowers,onebytheHoteldeVille,whichisconical,theotheroppositethechurchofLaSainteEsprit,whichislikeapapaltiara.WhenIsawinBaedekerthat"enfacedecetteeglise--unetourde1494,quiaunbeau

campanileenfer,"mymindturnedatoncetothathorribleironspireatRouen,andIfeltdisposedtolookatthepavementwhenapproachingthechurch.However,itisnotmodern,andnothideous;itisquitethereverse,astudyinfineironwork.Thattheancientscould,however,doveryvillainousthings,maybeseenonavisitpaidtothechurchofS.JeandeMalthe.Ithasasquareeastend,isanedificeofthethirteenthcentury,withatowerofthefourteenthandfifteenth.Theoriginalarchitectinthethirteenthcenturywasafool,andthosewhodesiredtocompletethechurchacenturylaterprobablyadvertisedforthegreatestfoolthenintheprofession,andsecuredhim.WithinthechurchisamonumentthatpretendstobethetombofAlphonsoII.,CountofProvence,in1209,andtobeadornednotonlywithhisstatue,butalsowiththoseofhissonRaymondBerengariusIV.,andofBeatrix,QueenofNaples,thewife

ofthelatter.Themonumentis,however,ahoax.Thestatuesarethere,butaremodern,ofthenamby-pambyschool,andoftheoriginaltombpossiblyacrocketandacuspmayremain.

Hardbythisodiouschurch,withitshorriblemoderngarishwindows,isthemuseum,containingsomeGreekinscriptions,aChristiansarcophagusortwo,notgrownonthespot,butimportedfromArles,andsomefragmentsofstatues.

TheCathedralofS.SauveuristhegreatattractioninAix,anditis,indeed,averyfascinatingchurch.Thewestfrontcontainsarecessedgatewaywithrangesofsaintsintheoutermember,andalegionofcherubimwiththeirwings,somespread,somefolded,intheinnermember.Thelower

portionofthedoorwaywasencasedbyahoarding,andIcouldnotseeit.Itisundergoingrestoration.Thesaints'figuresthereonhadtheirheadsknockedoffattheRevolution,andthesewererestoredinbadtastelater,andnowfreshheads--wewillhopemoresuccessful--arebeingadjusted.

Ohthatwealsocouldchangeourheads!

Theoctagonaltower,whichformerlyhadasomewhatboldappearance,hasbeensuccessfullycompletedwithanopentraceriedparapetandpinnacles.



Ontherighthandofthechurchisaveryinterestingdoorway,clearlyClassic.TwoflutedCorinthianpillarsareletintothewall,andsupportanentablature.BetweentheseaRomanesquedoorwayhasbeeninserted,withatwistedpillarononeside,andanotherfluted,oppositeit.

Theinteriorofthecathedralisfullofsurprises,ThebaptisteryontherightissupportedonClassiccolumnsofgreypolishedgranite.TheS.aisleofthechurchisRomanesqueofthetwelfthcentury,andwastheoriginalnaveoftheminster.InthefourteenthorfifteenthcenturythepresentnaveandN.aislewereadded,andthentheS.aisleoftheRomanesquechurchwasdestroyed.Consequentlythecloisterofthetwelfthcentury,whichoriginallyabuttedontheS.wallofthechurch,nowstandsdetachedfromitbythewidthofthedestroyedaisle.

Insomechapelsissoftoldglowingmarigold-yellowcinque-centoglass.Thechoirofthecathedralishungwithtapestries,saidtobebyQuentinMatsys,gorgeousincolour,of,however,beauteousharmonyoftone.Therearequaintoldpaintingsongoldgroundsinthenave.IntheN.aislelovelytombsthatservedasmemorialsofthedead,andlikewiseasaltar-pieces.[1]

[Footnote1:Christonthecrossisbetweenkneelingfiguresofaknightandalady;S.AnneandtheB.V.Maryarealsorepresented.Thisreredosissoexcellent,sobeautiful,thatofcourseitdidnotsuitthetastefor

tawdrinessthatsprangupintheeighteenthcentury,andavulgarreredoshasbeenerected,andthealtarmovedbeforethat.]

Thechurchisrichinpicturesquefeatures,nottobesketchedwithpencil,butlaidinwiththebrushandcolour.

Moreover,thecloisterischarminginitsrichquaintness.Thesculptorshaverevelledinthefoliagewithwhichtheyhaveadornedthecapitals.Herewehavetwistedpillars,theretheyaresculpturedoverwithscales,lozenges,andotherornamentalfancies.Inthecapitals,groupsoffiguresalternatewithburstingfrondsofferns,unfoldingvineleaves,andfantasticplayingmonsters.Inthecentreofthequadranglestandsanoldcolumn,onwhichisS.MaryMagdalenwithherointment-pot,anddoveswere

flutteringandcooingasanoldcanonscatteredcrumbstothemabouthisfeet.

Aixlacksonethinggreatly,aterraceabovethetownwhencethevalleymaybeseen,thetowersofAix,andthecragsofMontVictoire.ButawalkshouldonnoaccountbeomitteduptheheightsofS.Eutropetoanoldwindmillthatstandsonacrestoflimestone.

Theviewthenceischarming.TotherightthegreenvalleyofL'Infernet,upwhichmarchedMarcellusontheeveofthegreatbattleofPourrieres.Toweringoverhead,catchingtheeveningsunonitsglisteningbaldpeaksistobeseenMontVictoire.AlittletotheS.E.thecleftinthewoodedhillsthroughwhichtheArebreaksitsway,acleftupwhichtheTeutons

trudgedwiththeirwivesandchildrenandthespoilofGaul,totheirdestruction.Tothesouth-eastalsoaquaintchainofhillsthatriseaboveGardanne,withabosslikeagreatsnuff-boxonthetop,thePillonduRoi.Atone'sfeetisAix,withitsmanytowers,surroundedbysilveryoliveorchards,andawaytothesouthistheredhillaboveLesMilleswhereMariuswasencampedthenightafterthefightwiththeAmbrons.

AixiscloselyassociatedwiththatdelightfuloldMarkTapleyofkings,ReneofAnjou,whosecharacterhasbeenhitoffwithsuchmasterlyfidelitybySirWalterScottin"AnneofGeierstein."RenewasbornatAngersin



1409,andwasthesecondsonofDukeLouisII.,ofthejuniorhouseofAnjou,andofIolanthe,daughterofkingJohnofAragon.HeborethetitleofDukeofGuisetillhisfather'sdeath.LouisII.hadbeenadoptedbyJoannaofNaples,asherheir,andhadbeencrownedkingofNaplesatAvignonbyClementVII.,butwasneverabletoobtainpossessionofhisinheritance.Afterhisdeath,in1417,Rene'seldestbrother,LouisIII.,succeededtohistitlesandrights,andwhenhediedwithoutissue,in1434,Anjou,Provence,andclaimstoNaples,SicilyandJerusalemdevolvedonRene,whohadinthemeantimeacquired,bythedeathofanuncle,theDuchyofBar,and,byrightofhiswife,laidclaimtotheDuchyofLorraine.

Whenhedesiredtomaketheselatterclaimsgood,hewasinvolvedinwarwithhiswife'skinsmen,andwastakenprisonerandlockedupatDijon.Finally,thequestionoftherighttotheDuchyofLorrainewasreferredtothedecisionoftheEmperorSigismund,whogaveitinfavourofRene.Hisopponent,however,appealedtoPhilipofBurgundy,whosummonedRenetoappearbeforehim,andwhenhedidnotappear,orderedhimtoreturntohisprison,fromwhichhehadbeenreleasedonparole.Reneatoncesubmitted.WhilsthewasinprisonatDijon,delegatesfromNaplesarrivedofferinghimthecrown;butDukePhilipwouldnotreleasehim.ThereuponRenetransferredhisrightsprovisionallytohiswife,theDuchessIsabella,andshebecameregentofNaples,Sicily,Anjou,andProvence.She,however,soonfoundherselfinvolvedinwarwiththekingofAragon.Inthemeantime

Renemanagedtoransomhimselfforthesumof400,000goldflorins(1437)andatoncehastedtoNaples.There,however,hefoundhimselfunabletomakeheadagainstAlphonsoofAragon,andhewasfinallydrivenout,andobligedtoreturntoProvence.HediedatAixonJuly10,1480.

SirWalterwellsaysofhim:"Bornofroyalparentage,andwithhighpretensions,Renehadatnoperiodofhislifebeenabletomatchhisfortunestohisclaims.Ofthekingdomstowhichheassertedright,nothingremainedinhispossessionbutthecountyofProvence,itselfafairandfriendlyprincipality,butdiminishedbythemanyclaimswhichFrancehadacquireduponportionsofitbyadvancesofmoneytosupplythepersonalexpensesofitsmaster,andbyotherportions,whichBurgundy,towhomRenehadbeenaprisoner,heldinpledgeforhisransom....Renewasaprinceof

verymoderateparts,endowedwithaloveofthefinearts,whichhecarriedtoextremity,andwithadegreeofgoodhumour,whichneverpermittedhimtorepineatfortune,butrendereditspossessorhappy,whenaprinceofkeenerfeelingswouldhavediedofdespair.This_insouciant_,light-tempered,gayandthoughtlessdispositionconductedRene,freefromallthepassionswhichembitterlife,toahaleandmirthfuloldage.Evendomesticlossesmadenodeepimpressiononthefeelingsofthischeerfuloldmonarch.Mostofhischildrenhaddiedyoung;Renetookitnottoheart.HisdaughterMargaret'smarriagewiththepowerfulHenryofEnglandwasconsideredaconnectionabovethefortunesofthekingofTroubadours.Butintheissue,insteadofRenederivinganysplendourfromthematch,hewasinvolvedinthemisfortunesofhisdaughter,andrepeatedlyobligedtoimpoverishhimselftosupplyherransom....Amongallhisdistresses,

Renefeastedandreceivedguests,danced,sang,composedpoetry,usedthepencilorbrushwithnosmallskill,devisedandconductedfestivalsandprocessions,andstudiedtopromotethemirthandgoodhumourofhissubjects."

Inthecathedralishisportraitalongwiththatofhissecondwife,JeannedeLaval.Inthe_place_ishisstatue,amediocrework,holdingabunchofMuscatgrapes,aspecieshefirstintroducedtoEurope.IsoughtinvainatAixforaphotographoftheMerryMonarchtakenfromtheauthenticpicture,andwasofferedonefromthecharacterlessstatue,whichIdeclined.Poor



kingRene'spoemshavefoundaneditorandapublisher--infourvolumes(Paris,1845-6,editedbyQuatrebarbes),but,Ifear,notmanyreaders.No;itwillnotbethroughhislabouredpoeticcompositions,northroughthedaubswhichhepainted,thatRenewillbeknownandwillhaveearnedthegratitudeofposterity,butthroughtheintroductionoftheMuscatgrape.Henceforth,letmyreaders,whenevertheyenjoytheirmuscatelsoutofthegrape-houseathome,orsipMoscadaToscanainItaly,orMuscatinLaVallais,giveakindlythoughttothatmuch-triedbutneverdowncastmonarch.

CHAPTERXIII.

THECAMARGUE.

FormationofthedeltaoftheRhone--Thediluvialwash--Thealluviumspreadoverthis--Thethreestagestheriverpursues--Thezoneoferosion--Thezoneofcompensation--Thezoneofdeposit--Rivermouths--Estuariesanddeltas--Theformationofbars--Oflagoons--ThelagoonsoftheGulfofLyons--TheancientpositionofArlesbetweentheriverandthelagoons--NeglectofthelagoonsintheMiddleAges--Theybecome

morasses--Attemptatremedy--Embankmentsanddrains--Amistakemade--TheCamarguenowadesert--LesSaintesMaries--Noevidencetosupportthelegend--Basedonamisapprehension.

AsIsaidwhenspeakingoftheCrau,thewholedeltaoftheRhone,whichextendedinthediluvialepochfromCettetoFos,consistsofavastslopingplainofrolledstonesfromtheAlps.WhatisnowagreatconvexitythrustintotheMediterranean,perpetuallygaininggroundonthesea,wasatthecommencementofthepresentgeologicepochagreatbay,andthewavesoftheMediterraneanbrokeagainstthecliffsoflesMontsGarrigues,atLodeve,theheightsofNimesandBeaucaire,againstthelimestonecragsoftheAlpines,andswirledagainstthatcalcareousspurthatnowseparates

thelagoonofBerrefromthedesertoflaCrau.

But,atanepochwhichitisimpossibletofix,which,however,isposteriortothelastgeologicdislocationsofthesoil,twoformidabledelugessweptfromtheAlpsdownthetroughsoftheRhoneandtheDurance,carryingwiththemvastmassesofstonetornfromtheflanksofthemountains.Theywereveritableavalanchesofwater,mudandrubble,thatfilledtheentirebayandcoveredtheland,wherevertheypoured,withthewreckageoftheAlps.Thestoneswerebrokenintoathousandpiecesintheircourse,theiranglesrubbeddown,andtheirsurfacespolishedbyfriction,andthisvastbedofrubblemeasuresnearthemouthoftheRhonesomesixtyfeetindepth,andextendsunderthebluesurfaceoftheseatothedistanceofmanymiles.

But,whenthediluviumceased,andtheriversRhoneandDuranceassumedapproximatelytheirpresentcharacter,achangeofproceduretookplace.Thevolumeofwaterrolleddownwasbynomeanssogreat,theinclinationofthefallwasvastlylessened,consequentlytheriverswereenabledtodowhattheyhadnotbeenabletodointhediluvialperiod,chewuptheirfoodofstone,andreduceittotheconditionofmud.Thisiswhatthetworiversareengageduponnow,andinsteadofstrewingtheir_embouchures_ withpebbles,theydistributeoverthem,orwoulddoso,ifpermitted,afilmoffertilisingmud.



ThroughmanyagestheRhonehasrambledatitssweetwilloverthevasttractofrubblethatformeditsdeltainthediluvialage,changingitscoursecapriciously,andalways,whereveritwent,coveringupthepebblebedwithadepositoffertilesoil.Otherstreamshelpedinthegoodwork--theHerault,richwithredmud,theLey,thatflowspastMontpellier,andtheVidourlefromLunel:consequentlyaverylargeportionoftherubblebediscoveredwithrichsoil,thatgrowsvines,mulberries,andolives.Theploughandspade,however,speedilyreachthebouldersthatliebutslightlyburiedbeneaththesurface.ThecanalofCraponne,thatconveysthechargedwatersoftheDuranceovertheCrauofArles,iseffectingartificiallyoverthatportionoftherubblydesert,theworkthatwasdonebyNatureherselfinpastagesoverthewholeregionfromCettetoAiguesmortes.

Nowletusexamineveryshortlythestagesthroughwhicheverymountain-bornriverruns.

Whenyoung,sprungfrometernalsnows,gushingfromunderglaciers,itcutsitswaythroughmountaingorges,receivingtherocksthatfallfromabove,andcarryingthemalonginitscourse,tearingitswayroundrockyspurs,andbreakingtheminitsfury,and,asittravelsdownintothelowerground,itcarrieswithitavastmassofstone.Everytributarydoesthesame.Thisfirststageiscalledthe_zoneoferosion_.

But,astheriverleavestheAlps,itscoursebecomeslessrapid,andthefallisnotsoabrupt.Thebedwidens,andwhatwasaboilingtorrentbecomesarapidriver.Asitrollsalong,itcarriesdownwithitthestonesthatithasbroughtfromthemountains,turningthemoverandoverinitscourse,rubbingdownallroughpoints,andbecomingitselfdiscolouredwiththeparticlesithasrubbedoffthepebbles.Allthismatterthusproducedhasatendencytofalltothebottomandformbanksofgravel;buttheviolenceofthestreamisconstantlyalteringtheshapeandpositionofthesebeds,carryingthegravelfarther,andthrowingdownintheirplacehalf-triturateddepositsofthesamecharacter.

Thisiscalledthe_zoneofcompensation_.

AnytravellerwhohasvisitedtheVallaismayseetheRhoneatworkinitsfirststage.InthesecondhecantracetheriverfrombelowLyons,andseethethousandgravel-banksformed,sweptaway,andreformed,ateveryflood,thatmarkthecourseoftheriverinitssecondstage.

BythetimetheRhonehasreachedArlesallitsgravelhasbeenchampedupandreducedtoimpalpablemud.ThatbluecrystallinefloodthatgushedfromtheLakeofLeman,unsulliedbyaparticleofearth,isnowariverofbrownmud--thickaspea-soup,andasnutritious.Thestonesthatwouldhavekilledallvegetationhavebeenpoundedintoaconditionsoattenuated,thattheyformrichalluvialmatter.Therivernowseekstodepositallthismud.Onreachingthesea,thedifferenceingravitybetween

themeetingwaters,andtheirvariationintemperature,producesrapidprecipitationofalltheearthymatterheldinsuspensebythestream.Thislaststageintheriver'scourseiscalledthe_zoneofdeposit_.

TheinclinationofthebedoftheRhonebetweenTarasconandArlesisfourfeetthreeinchesinthemile;butatArlestheelevationofthebankisbutthreefeetsixinchesabovethelevelofthesea;andtheriverhastorunsixty-twomilesbeforeitreachessaltwaves.Consequentlythebedwidens,theriverbranches,andtherapidityofitsmovementdiminishesprogressively.Thealluviumisdeposited,banksmultiply,themouthsare



encumberedwithsubmarineislets,locallycalled_theys_,whichthewavesandcurrentsoftheseadisplaceandremodelcontinuously,andrendertheentrancetotheriverimpracticable.[1]

[Footnote1:Lentheric:'LesVillesMortesduGolfedeLyon,'Paris,1883.]

Rivermouthsvarygreatly;theyareeitherestuaries,likethoseoftheThames,theSeine,andtheS.Lawrence,ortheyaredeltas,likethoseoftheNile,thePo,andtheRhone.Verygenerallyintidalseaswehaveestuaries;butinthosethataretideless,astheMediterraneanandtheBlackSea,theyaredeltas.Wherethereisatide,themouthoftheriveriswashedoutandkeptopenbythefluxandrefluxofthesea;butwherethereisnotidethereisnothingtointerferewiththeriverchokingitsmouthwithitsdeposits.Insuchacase,afterawhile,themassofdepositbecomessogreatastointerferewiththecourseoftheriver.Theseabeatingagainstthisbarthrowsupsandandgraveluponit,andateverystormraisesithigher.Thentheriverdividesintotwoormorebranches,andformsforitselfnewbeds,whicharedestinedinturntoundergothesameprocess.

Now,whenariverhasformeditsbarchokingitsmouth,andisthenforcedtomakeafreshmouth,itleavesalagoonbehindthisbar.Ateveryflooditswatersoverflow,andareunabletoescapetotheseawhenleftbehindthebar.Sometimes,inlikemanner,inagaleofwindonshore,thewaves

arecarriedoverthebar,andthereareleftasabrackishpool,unabletoreturntothesea.

ThusthewholeoftheBayoftheGulfofLyonsismaskedbyafalsecoastlineofoldbars,behindwhichlielagoonsallformedinthewayindicated.BetweenRousillonandLeucateistheEtangdeSalses;Narbonneancientlywasseatedinthelapofanothergreatinlandlakeorlagoon.ThevastEtangdeTauhasabarrierbetweenitandtheseaonwhichisplantedCette.LagoonsbehindbarsextendthencethewholewaytoAiguesmortes;andbetweenthemouthsoftheRhone,astheyflowatpresent,istheEtangdeValcares.

Aftertheriverhasdeserteditsoldbed,andthelagoonhasbeenformed

behindthebar,orlittoralcord,waveandstormworkinguponthislonglineofmudandsandsucceedinbreakingthrough;then,astheinclinationofthelandisbut0'm,01inthemetre--almostnothing,thesweetandsaltwatermingleintheselakes,theyneverrundry,thoughinmanycasesnotthreefeetdeep.

AlookatthemapoftheGulfofLyonswillshowthereaderthatitsspecialcharacteristicisthechainoflagoonsseparatedfromtheseabyanarrowribbonofsand.ItmayhavecausedperplexityinthemindofmanythattheGulfshouldbearthenameitdoes.ItcannottakeitsnamefromthecityofLyons--theancientLugdunum--whichistwohundredandtwentymilesinland.Itcertainlycannotderiveitfromthewildbeasts--lions--fortherearenonenearerthanAfrica.

Thefactis,thattheGulftakesitstitlefromtheKelticwordforalagoon,lonorlyn,anamethatrecursinMaguelonne--theDwellingonthePool--intheCanaldesLonnes,achannelconnectingthepondsandlagoonsoftheDuranceandRhone,and,indeed,inourownLondon(Londinium)theDinas,CastleontheLon,orpooloftheThamesandtheEssexmarshes.

Anciently,inhistorictimes,Arles,thatliesneartheapexofthetriangleformedbythebranchesoftheRhone,wasbathedononesidebytheriver,bywhichshereceivedmerchandisefromthenorth;and,ontheother



sidebythe_lones_,orsubmergedland,thatextendedtothesea;andafterMariushadconnectedtheseloneswithhiscanal,sheexportedandimportedmerchandiseovertheMediterraneanthroughthelagoons,astheseacouldnotbereachedbytheriveronaccountofitsbars.

Moreover,theGreekandRomancitiesalongthecoastarenotfoundontheactualcoast,onthebars,butwereplantedonthelagoons,whichaffordedthemperfectharbouragefortheirmerchantvessels.Theselagoons,throughwhichflowedsaltandfreshwater,werealwayshealthy,andremainedhealthyaslongascommunicationwasmaintainedwiththeseaandtheriver.Butwindandwaveandalluviumworkingtogetherchokethesecommunications,anddirectlythemouthseawardsofalagooniscloseditisconvertedintoastagnatingmarshthatexhalesmalaria.

DuringtheMiddleAgesnoattentionwaspaidtothisfact,andthosestationswhichhadbeenperfectlywholesomeintheClassicEpochwererenderedpestilential,anddwindledfrompopulouscitiestoaclusteroffever-smittenpeasants'hovels.Inlatertimesthisdesperateconditionofaffairscalledforremedy.LouisXIV.sentengineerstoexamineandreportonthestateofthisregion,andworkswerebegunwhichhavebeenmaintainedandextendedannually,theraisingofdykesagainstoverflowbytheRhoneandbythesea.Drainshavebeencutinalldirectionstocarryoffthestagnantwater,openingbytrapsintothesea.Theextentofdykenowreachestwohundredandthirtymiles.Thebanksofthetwomain

branchesoftheRhoneareprotected,aswellasthesea-faceoftheCamargue,thetrianglebetweenthem,andtheannualcosttothecountrytokeeptheminrepairisonehundredandtwentythousandfrancs.Aflood,however,oftenbreaksthroughthebanks,andsubmergesalargedistrict.Onsuchoccasionstheadditionalexpenseisheavy.

Now,whatistheresultofallthisoutlay?Theengineersandscientificauthoritiesofthecoast-worksanddykesareprettyunanimousinsayingthatagreatmistakewasmadeinthebeginningbyLouisXIV.TheRhoneoughtnevertohavebeenembanked.Whatshouldhavebeendonewastokeepopenthemouthsofthelagoons,topreservethemfromfestering.

Formerly,thelargeislandoftheCamargue,occupyingnearlytwenty

thousandacres,wasperiodicallyinundatedbytheRhone,andwhenthewatersfell,afilmoftherichestdepositwasleftbehind,justasinEgypttheNileoverflowsandfertilisesitsdelta.Ateveryoverfloweighteenthousandcubicyardsofalluviumwasdepositedoverthisdistrict,allofwhichisnowcarriedintotheMediterraneanandthrowndownintheconstructionofnewbars;utterlywasted.

InthetimeoftheRomandominationtheCamarguewasasecondEgypt,andwascalled"ThegranaryoftheRomanarmy;"andArleswasgiventhedesignationof"TheBreasts,"soflowingwithplentywasitheldtobe.Attheinitialcostofmillionsofpounds,andanannualoutlayoffivethousandpounds,theCamarguehasbeenreducedtoabsolutesterility.

Theprotectedlands,deprivedofthesweetwaterwhichwouldhavewashedfromthemthesaltthatnowspoilstheirfertility,andofthenaturaldressingthatProvidencesendsdowntothemeveryspringandautumn,arenowproductiveofonlyalittlecoarsewirygrassandthistles,andthedriedsoiliswhitewithsalineefflorescence.AtthepresentdaythevalueoflandintheneighbourhoodofArlesthatissubjecttoperiodicinundationisthreetimesthatofthelandguardedbycostlyembankmentsagainstthebountiesoftheriver.

OndescendingthesinuouscourseofthelesserRhonethehillsdisappear,



thehorizonislevelasthesea,andallaroundisdesert.ThenthecurrentoftheRhoneseemstofailwholly,thewatersoftheriverandofthelagoonsonbothsidesofitsbedmingle,andbecomeconfoundedinonesheet.Allnatureisdead.Thedullandsluggishwater,streakedwithlinesofooze,extendonallsidesasfarastheeyecanreach.Theeffectsofthemirageaddbewilderment.Onecanhardlydistinguishwaterfromsky.Nothingcanbemoredrearythanthisnakedsurface,hushedintosilence,wherevegetationisreducedtoafewtuftsofrushesandtamarisks.

But,suddenly,outofthemarshy,submergedplain,astrangepileofbuildingsisseencuttingthehorizon,halfacastle,halfacathedral,imposinginamassasittowersabovethefragileandsqualidhovelscrouchedatthefeet.Thisbuildingis_LesSaintesMaries_.

[Illustration:LesSaintesMaries.]

Probablynowhereintheworldistobeseenaspotsodesolateandsowretched.ThevillageisplantedattheextremewestangleoftheCamargue.Itcanbereachedbyoneroadonly,roughtotravelover,andimpracticableinwinter.ThisroadleavesArles,orratherTrinquetailles,oppositeArles,traversesthemarshoftheGrandMar,followsthedykeoftheriver,andthenthreadsitswayamongmorasses,andoversoilwhitewithsalt,andburningundertheraysofthesun.Onceintheyearthisrouteiscrowdedwithpilgrims,whocometopaytheirdevotionsatthespotwhereitis

supposedthattheThreeMarys,Mary,themotherofJames,MarySalome,andtheirservantSara,landed.Thelegendissomewhatmixed.Accordingtooneversion,thosewhocametoProvence,flyingfromthepersecutionraisedbytheJews,wereLazarus,MaryMagdalene,andMartha.Lazarus,aswehaveseen,hasbeenappropriatedbyMarseillesasitsapostle;MarthahasbeensettledatTarascon,andMaryMagdalenehasbeengivenacellinLaSainteBaume.Here,atLesSaintesMaries,however,theapostolicthreearesaidtobeMary,motherofJames,Mary,wifeofCleopas,andSara,theirservant;butaconcessiontotheothertraditionismade,inthatitisallowedthatthesethreebroughtwiththemLazarusandMartha.

NothingwasknownofallthistillthetimeofgoodKingRene.ThechurchatthispointwascalledinthesixthcenturyS.MariadeRatis,S.Maryof

theBoats,byS.Caesarius,BishopofArles.William,CountofProvence,inhiswill,A.D.992,givesitthesamedesignation;soRaimbald,ArchbishopofArlesinA.D.1061,"TheChurchoftheEverVirginMotherofGod,MaryoftheBoats."SoalsoBertrandII.,CountofProvence,atthesamedate.Twobullsofpopesin1123and1200speakofthechurchasthatofS.MaryontheSea.SodoesGervaisofTilbury.In1241RaymondBerengarius,CountofProvence,entitlesitNotreDamedelaMer.Andsoitcontinuedtobecalledindocumentsdownto1395.IfnotOurLadyoftheSea,itwasS.MariadelaMar,oftheMere,theLagoon.

However,in1448,KingRenetookitintohisheadthatMaryandtheMereweredistinctpersons,thatMarywasnot,couldnotbe,theVirgin,shemustbeoneoftheotherMarys;sowithalittleputtingtogetherofheads

andpuzzlement,heandhisadvisersdecidedthatthetwoMaryswereMary,themotherofJames,andMarySalome.Thenextthingtobedonewastofindtheirbodiesthere,butthatnaturallypresentednodifficulty.Therewerebonesthere--fromPagantimes.SincethatdateagreatpilgrimagehastakenplaceannuallytoLesSaintesMaries;andthecureofLesBaux,beingverysatisfiedthattheTremaieinhisparishmustbetheThreeMarys,erectedachapelundertherocksculpturedwiththefiguresofMarius,Martha,andJulia.

TheMagdalenisprobablyapersonationoftheperishedcityofMaguelonne,



asoneoftheMarysistheMarorMere;andMartha,therecanhardlybeaquestion,istheSyrianprophetesswhoaccompaniedMarius,butwhoinherplaceinheritedtheattributesandcultofMartis,thePhoeniciangoddess,venerated,doubtless,atallthesettlementsofthesemercantileadventurersalongthecoast.

CHAPTERXIV.

TARASCON.

PositionofTarasconandBeaucaireoppositeeachother--ChurchofS.Martha--Crypt--Ancientpaintings--Catechising--Ancientaltar--ThefestivaloftheTarasque--ThePhoeniciangoddessMartha--StoryofS.Fronto--Discussionat_dejeuner_overtheentryofM.CarnotintoMarseilles--ThechangeintheFrenchcharacter--Pessimism--Beaucaire--Font--Castle--SiegebyRaymondVII.--StoryofAucassinandNicolette.

TarasconandBeaucairestandfrowningateachotheracrosstheRhone,each

withitscastle;Beaucaireagrandpileonacrag,Tarascondippingitsfeetinthewater,andsulkilyshowingtoitsenemyaplainface,reservingallitspicturesquenessforitssidetowardsthetown.ThiscastleofTarasconwasoneinwhichKingReneresided,aswellasinthatatAix,buttheAixcastleisgone,andthatatTarasconremains.BeaucairebelongedtothecountsofToulouse,whereasTarascon,asalreadysaid,belongedtoProvence.Idonotliketoventureonanexplanationofthename,butthe _Tar_withwhichitbeginsismostprobablytheKeltic_Daur_,water.[1]ButtheTarasconesewillnothearofthis.TothemthenameistakenfromtheTarasc,amonsterthatdevastatedthewholecountryround,butwhomS.Marthabridledandslew.S.Martha,aswehavealreadyseen,istheveryprophetesswhodirectedCaiusMariusinhiscampaignagainsttheTeutonsandAmbrons,thedevastatinghordethathasinthepopularimaginationbeen

representedasadragon.ThebodyofS.Marthaissupposedtolieinthecrypt,inanearlyChristianmarblesarcophagus,probablybroughtfromtheAlyscampatArles,representingMosesstrikingtherock,andthemiraculousfeedingofthemultitude,themiracleofCana,andtheresurrectionofLazarus.

[Footnote1:_Gwask_,inBreton,is_contraction_,andatTarascontheriverisdrawntogetherbytheopposedpointsofBeaucaireandTarascon.Thismayperhapsformthesecondsyllable.]

[Illustration:Earlyaltar,Tarascon.]

[Illustration:SpireofS.Martha'sChurch,Tarascon.]

InthiscryptisaCorinthiancapitalturnedupsidedownandconvertedintoaholywaterstoup;alsoaveryearlyandcuriousaltar,theslabofwhichisjusttwofeetsquare,andhasinthemidstasquareholecut,probablyoflaterdate,forthereceptionofrelics;theheightofthealtaristhreefeetthreeanda-halfinches,itisofaporousstonethathasbecomegreatlycorrodedwithweather.ItisprobablytheearliestChristianaltarinFrance.

Inthecryptisalife-sizerepresentationoftheentombmentofS.Martha,



withfiguresstandinground,Christatthehead,andS.Prontoatthefeet.

[Illustration:IrondoortosafeinS.Martha'sChurch.]

ThechurchofS.Marthaisofthefourteenthcentury,withtheexceptionofthesouthportal,whichdatesfrom1187,andisrichinitsdeeply-recessedmouldingsfilledwithsculpture,buthasbeensadlymutilated.Withinthechurchissomeveryfineironwork,agrilledividingthechoirfromthesideaisles,andacharmingironsafeletintothewallonthenorthside,ofironworkpaintedandgilt.Therearemoreoversomequaintpaintings;anancientaltarpiecerepresentingS.Rocque,betweenS.JohnandS.Laurence,onagoldground;aS.MaryMagdalenwiththeportraitofacanonkneelingatherfeet;thefinestpaintingisS.Michael,alsowithacanonkneelingbelow.Thearmourofthearchangelisveryrich,andheightenedwithgold.Thedateofthesepicturesis1513.ThereisanotheroftheNativitythatisinferior.Whilstlookingroundthechurch,Iheardsingingmuffledanddistant,andpresently,onreachingthestepsthatdescendedtothecrypt,foundthatayoungpriestwastherecatechisingaclassoflittlegirls.Aftersomeinstructionstheysangahymn,whichaSisterofMercywasaccompanyingontheharmonium.Theairwastaking.Itpuzzledmeatfirst.Itwasfamiliarandyetstrange,andnottillthechildrenhadreachedthelastversedidIrecogniseawonderfullydistortedformofthemermaid'ssongin_Oberon_,alltheaccentsbeingaltered.InthiscryptisthetombofaNeapolitanknightattachedtothecourtofkingRene;andinthe

floorawellthewaterofwhichrisesandfallswiththeriver.InallprobabilitythiscryptwasoriginallythebaptisteryofthefirstbasilicaerectedinTarascon.

[Illustration:KingRene'scastle,Tarascon.]

ThecastleofKingReneiswonderfullypicturesqueonthelandside.Itwasbegunin1400;heissaidtohaveinstitutedthefestivaloftheTarasque,thatusedtobeconductedwithgreatmerrimentannuallyonJuly29th.

Aprocessionofmummersattendedbytheclergyparadedthetown,escortingthefigureofadragon,madeofcanvas,andwieldingaheavybeamofwoodforatail,totheimminentdangerofthelegsofallwhoapproached.The

dragonwasconductedbyagirlinwhiteandblue,wholeditbyhergirdleofbluesilk,andwhenthedragonwasespeciallyfrolicsomeandunrulydashedholywateroverit.

Theceremonywasattendedbynumerouspracticaljokes,andledtoactsofviolence,inconsequenceofwhichithasbeensuppressed.

S.MarthahasinheritedthesymbolsofthePhoeniciangoddessofherownname,theshipandthedragon;therecanbelittledoubtthatthefirstPhoeniciansettlersinProvenceintroducedherworshipasthepatronessofsailors,andthatthisworshipacquiredafreshimpulseafterthedestructionoftheTeutonswhohadoverruntheland,whentheprophetessMarthawasregardedasonewiththeearliergoddess.WhenChristianitycame

in,thenameofthehostessofBethanywasgiventothechurcheserectedwhereMarthathemoongoddesshadbeenveneratedbefore,soasgraduallytoweantheheathenfromtheiroldfaith.TheycameoverintotheChurch,butbroughtwiththemtheirmythofthepagangoddess.

[Illustration:AbitinTarascon.]

Anoddlegendistoldofherdeath.

OnaSundaymorning,S.Fronto,bishopofPerigeuxwasabouttosayMass,



andwhilstwaitingforthecongregationtoassemble,fellasleepinhischair,whenhesawChristappear,whobadehimcomeandassistattheobsequiesofMartha.InstantlyhefoundhimselftranslatedtoTarascon,inthechurchwithourLord,heatthefeetandChristattheheadofthebody,andtheSavioursangtheburialoffice.InthemeantimeatPerigeux,thedeaconwonderedattheheavysleepofthebishop,andhadmuchadotorousehim.AtlengthFrontoopenedhiseyes,whenthedeaconwhisperedthatthepeoplewereimpatientwithlongwaiting.

"Donotbetroubled,"saidFronto,"youdonotunderstandwhatIhavebeenabout."

NowitfelloutthatwhilstatTarasconFrontowasengagedinburyingMartha,hehadtakenoffhisgloveandring,andhadputthemintothehandsofthesacristan.WhenFrontoinformedthecongregationatPerigeuxwhathehadbeenabout,theydisbelieved.However,messengersweresenttoTarascon,andhisgloveandringwereidentified.ThesewerepreservedasrelicsinthechurchtilltheRevolution.Unfortunatelyforthestory,FrontoofPerigeuxbelongstothefourthcentury,sothatthelapseindreamwasnotmerelyaskipoverhalfFrance,butalsothroughfourcenturies.

Tarasconhassomepicturesquebitsinthetown,arcadeswithshopsunderneath,andquaintdoorwaysofRenaissancework;butitschiefcharm

afterthecastleiscertainlytheviewacrosstherivertotheheightsofBeaucairewithitsgrandruins.

Ilunchedatanhotelwhere,nearlyoppositeme,wasagentlemanwhohadbeenatMarseillesonthearrivalofthePresident,andwasveryfullofwhathehadseen.Atthetablewerehalf-a-dozenbesidemyself,andheheldforthtothemonthespectacle.Oppositehimsatabullet-headedcommercialtraveller.

"But,"saidthelatter,"IwouldnothavecrossedtheRhonebythebridgeofTarascontohaveseenhim.WhatisM.Sadi-Carnot?Heisnaught."

"No,butherepresentsthenation.Giveusapumpaspresident,andwemust

garlandthatpumpwithflowers.Andbelieveme,c'estunvilainmetiercetdepresident.Ifheleansalittletoomuchonthissidehegoesdownintothemud,alittletoomuchontheotherherollsinthedust.Onemustfeelsomerespectforthemanwhoundertakessuchathanklessoffice.And,again,whenamanridesinanopenlandauinpeltingrain,whenilluipleutdanslenez,withoutanumbrella,withhishatoff,salutingrightandleft,hedeservesrecognition."

"Itwasnotworththecostofhisentertainment.IamsurprisedthatMarseillesdidit."

"Ibegpardon.Itwasworthwhiledoingit.Hadtheweatherbeenfine,itwouldhavebroughtmoneyintothetown."

"What!WouldanyEnglishandAmericantravellersdesertMontecarloforadaytoseeaSadi-Carnot?"

"No,buteverywomaninMarseilleswouldhaveboughtanewkerchieforatrinkettomakeherselfsmart,justbecauseitwasafete.Asitwas,moneycirculated."

"Howso?"



"Onethousandandninety-sevenumbrellasweresoldthatdayatpricesrangingfromfivetofifteenfrancs,whichonotheroccasionssellfortwofrancstwenty-fivecentimes,andtenfrancs."

IdonotknowwhetherIhavebeenpeculiarlyunfortunateinlightingononlyoneclassofmenunderthepresent_regime_,butwhetheritbeinFrance,Switzerland,Belgium,orItaly,thatIhavecomeacrossFrenchmenandhadatalkwiththemoflateyears,Ihavenoticedaprevailingdiscouragement,apessimism,thatcertainlywasabsentinformerdays.TheverycharacterofaFrench_tabled'hote_ischanged.InsteadofGallicvivacity,merriment,andgeneralconversation,suchasonewaswonttofindthere,oneencounterssilence,reserve,andamarkedabsenceofself-assertion.ItistheGermanswhoarenowboisterousandself-assertiveattable.TheFrencharequietandsubdued.AsIhavealreadysaid,Imaybemistaken;Imayhavehitonexceptionalcases,butitisafactthatthoseFrenchmenIhaveconversedwithduringthelasttwoorthreeyearshavebeenoppressedwithaconvictionthatFrancehaslostcasteamongthenations,thatherfutureismenaced,andtheysaythattheyseenowayoutoftheirpresentcondition.

AsonesaidtomelastwinterinRome:"TheideaofFranceisanabstraction.Werangeourselvesnowunderparties,ourdevotionisnolongertoourcountrybuttoourparty.Haveyoueverbeenatastaghunt?Whenthenoblebeastisdownthehuntsmanslicesitopenandthrowsthe

heartandliverandentrailstothehounds.Thenensuesabattle.Everydogsnatchesatwhathedesires,andenviestheotherthepieceofoffalhehassecured.Allarefilledwithhatredofeachother,andselfishgreedastowhocaneatmostandthebestmorselsofthefallenbeast.AndthatisapictureofFrance.Ifwarcameuponus,wemustinfalliblybeoverthrown,foreachgeneralwouldbeseekingoutoftheaccidentsofwarfaretostealanadvantageforhimselforthepartyhefavours."

ThetownofBeaucaire,onthefarthersideoftheRhone,isfullerofpicturesquepointsthanisTarascon.SeatedattheheadoftheBeaucaireCanal,thatcommunicateswiththesea,ithasthatcommercialprosperitywhichislackingatTarascon.TheoldchurchisanexactreproductionofthatofS.Martha,buthasinadditionamostremarkablefont,astructure

risinginstageslikeatower,andwithaspiretocapit,resemblingsomewhatthesacramentaltabernaclesintheGermanchurches.TheHoteldeVilleisapicturesqueRenaissancebuildingwithboldopenstaircaseonpillars.ThecastleofBeaucairecrownstheridgeoflimestonethatextendsacrossthecountryfromNimesandiscutthroughbytheRhone,againemerging,inaloweminence,atTarascon.ThisnoblecastlewastakenbySimondeMontfortintheAlbigensianWarfromtheCountofToulouse,buttheyouthfulRaymondVII.,thoughonlynineteenyearsold,laidsiegetoitin1216,andsucceededinrecoveringit.Inthissiege,theinhabitantsofthetown,undertheyoungcount,assailedthecastle.SimondeMontfortcollectedanarmyandattackedRaymondintherear.ThereisaverycuriousaccountofthissiegeinaProvencalpoemontheAlbigensianWar,fromwhichIwillquoteafewlines,onlypremisingthatintheoriginalthe

castleiscalledtheCapitol:--

"ThetownsmensetuptheirenginesagainsttheCrusadersinthecastle,andsobattereditthatcastleandwatch-towerwerebroken,beamsandleadandstone.AtHolyEasterthebattering-ramwasmadeready,long,iron-headed,sharp,whichsostruckandcutthatthewallwasinjured,andthestonesbegantofallout.Butthebesiegedwerenotdiscouraged;theymadealoopofcordsattachedtoawoodenbeam,andwiththattheycaughttheheadoftheramandhelditfast.ThistroubledthoseofBeaucairesore;tillthemasterengineercame,andhesettheraminmotiononcemore.Thenseveral



oftheassailantsgotuptherock,andbegantodetachportionsofthewallwiththeirpicks.Thisthebesiegedwerewareof,andtheyletdownuponthemsulphurandpitchandfireinsackclothbyachainalongthewall,andwhenitblazeditbrokeforthandwasspiltovertheworkmen,andsuffocatedthemsothatnotonecouldtherecontinue.Thentheywenttotheirmachinesforcastingstones,andtheythrewthemwithsucheffectintothecastleastobreakallthebeamsthereof."

Beaucairecastleisnowinruins,buttheRomanesquechapelremainsintolerablecondition.InitLouisIX.issaidtohaveheardMassbeforeheembarkedforthecrusadetoEgypt.TheprettyoldProvencalpoemofAucassinandNicolette,whichhasbeenrecentlytranslatedintoEnglishbyMr.AndrewLanganddaintilypublished,hasitsscenelaidatBeaucaire.Tieckgaveaversionofitinhis"Phantasus."

[Illustration:ThechapelofBeaucaireCastle.]

Asweareontheverysceneofthisgracefullittletale,Imustgivetheessenceofit.Theromance,whichdatesfromthesecondhalfofthethirteenthcentury,isinprose,mingledwithscrapsofrhyme,destinedtobesung,andwiththeirmusicalnotationgiven.Attheheadofeachscrapofversecomestherubric"Nowistobesung,"andtheprosepassagesareheaded,"Nowistobesaid."

AucassinwasthesonoftheCountofBeaucaire.Hewasfairofface,withlightcurledhairandgreyeyes.NowtherewasaviscountinthetownwhohadboughtoftheSaracensalittlemaid,andhetaughthertheChristianfaith,andhadherbaptisedandcalledNicolette.

ThensaidtheCountofBeaucairetohissonAucassinthatheshouldgotobattleandwinhisspursandbedubbedaknight.Aucassinrepliedthathehadnowishtobeaknight,unlesshisfatherwouldgivehimNicolette"madoucemie"towife.Thecountisindignant.Hesaysthathissonmustmarrythedaughterofakingorofacount;butAucassinrepliesthatwereanempressofferedhimhewouldrefuseherforNicolette.Thereatthecountgoestotheviscountandbidshimgiveupthelittlemaidthathemayburnherasawitch.Theviscounthesitates,andpromiseshewillputherout

ofreachofAucassin.Thereuponheshutsherupinatower,alongwithhernurse,wherethereisbutasinglewindow.Andthecountpromiseshissonthatheshallhavehis"doucemie"ifhewillgotofightagainstthemortalenemyoftheirhouse,theCountofVallence.Aucassinbelieveshisfather;goesandcapturesthecount.Thenthefatherrefusestofulfilhispromise.AucassininaragereleasestheCountofVallence,andtheCountofBeaucaireimprisonshissoninatowerofthecastle.

Onemoonlightnight,whenhernurseisasleep,Nicolettetiesthebedclothestogetherandletsherselfdownoutofthewindow,escapesfromthetown,andgoesunderthecastle,whereshehearsAucassinlamentinginhisprison.Shespeakstohimandhereplies.

But(asitisascertainedthatshehasescaped)theguardaresentforthinsearchofher,withorderstorunherthroughthebodyiffound.However,thechiefofficeroftheguardisamercifulman,andso,ashegoesabout,hesingsasongtowarnher,andshehidesintheshadowofthetowertillthewatchisgonebyandthenfliesawayintotheforestland.Thereshebuildsherselfahut.WhennotidingsofNicoletteareheard,theCountofBeaucaireletshissonforthfromprison.Oneday,asAucassinridesintheforest,helightsonthecabinofhisdearNicolette,andtheyresolvetoflytogether.SotheytakeaboatontheRhoneandtheyarewasheddowntowardsthesea,capturedbySaracenpiratesandseparated.Aucassinis



ransomedandreturnshome.Nicolettestainsherface,makesherescape,obtainsa_vielle_,andtravelsaboutProvence,singingballads.ShecomestoBeaucaire,whereAucassinisnowcount,hisfatherhavingdied,andsingstoherhurdy-gurdythesongofheradventures.Thetearsrundownhischeeks,andhepromisesherrichgiftsifshewilltellhimmore.Thenshegoestotheviscountess--theviscountisdead--washesoffthewalnutjuice,dressesinbestarray,isseenandrecognisedbyAucassin,theyaremarriedwithgreatpomp,andarehappyeverafter.Adearlittleinnocentstory,freshandsweetwiththespringtimebloomofearlyliterature,withalfullofcuriouspicturesofthefeelingsofthetimerelativetochivalry,monachism,andreligion.

[Illustration:BeaucaireCastlefromTarascon.--Sunset.]

CHAPTERXV.

NIMES.

TherightspellingofNimes--Derivationofname--Thefountain--Throwingcoinsintosprings--Collectingcoins--SymbolofAgrippa--Characterof

Agrippa--WhathedidforNimes--TheMaisonCarree--DifferentideaofworshipintheHeathenworldfromwhatprevailsinChristendom--S.Baudille--Vespers--ActivityoftheChurchinFrance--BehaviouroftheClergyinItalytotheKingandQueen--TheRevolutionablessingtotheChurchinFrance--ChurchservicesinItalyandinFrance--TheTourmagne--Uncertaintyastoitsuse--CathedralofNimes--Otherchurches--Acanarylottery--AltarstotheSun--Thesun-wheel--TheCrossofConstantine--AnecdoteofFlechier.

IpraythereadertoobservehowIspellthenameofNimes,withneitheransnoracircumflex,neitherasNismes,norasNimes,forbotharewrong.NimesisNemausus,andthereisnostobesoundedorsuppressedinthe

ancientnameoftheplace,whichcomesfromtheKeltic_naimh_,afountainorspring.Andinverytruthnoothernamecouldbettersuitit,forhereunderalimestonehillwellsuptheriverinonelargefloodsufficientforboatstogoonitatonce.Thisgreatgreenspring,everflowing,mysteriousevennowadays,isthegreatfeatureofNimes,andthisfountaincertainlyawokethevenerationoftheoldGauls,whobelievedittobeadirectgiftofthegods.Onefollowsupacanalbetweenstreetsplantedwithtrees,andlooksdownintothepurewaterlikeliquidgreenglass,thensuddenlyreachesagarden.Aboverisesawoodedhill,thickwithpines,syringa,Judastreeofbrilliantpinklake,laburnumwithitschainsofgold,forminganarcofflowers,andseesbeforeoneawideenclosedpool,walledround,oftheshapeofthefigure8,heavingwithcoldpurewaterthatflowsawayundertheterraceandfallswitharoartothelower

levelofthecanal.Ononesideareruins--ofatempletotheNymphs;butonecannotatfirstlookatthat,thevolumeofwaterengagesone--alakeliftingitselfupbyitsownstrengthoutoftheearth,always,nightandday,inexhaustible,hardlyvaryinginvolume,comingnooneknowswhence,deepandgreen,withnovisiblebottom,withoutabubble,withoutaruffle--itisindeedwonderful.IhaveseenthespringoftheDanubeatDonaueschingen:itisnothingtothis;thefountainofVaucluseonecanunderstand--itbreaksoutfromacaveinthemountainside,likescoresofothers;thisisotherwise--ariverrisingwithnofuss,nodisplay,nonoise,withoutevenaripple.



Itdoesnotgush,itdoesnotboilup.Itissimplyoneglassysurface,andlookingatityoucannotconceivethatitisariverrisingverticallyandslidingawayunderyourfeet.PlinysaysofthesourceoftheClitumnus:"Atthefootofalittlehillcoveredwithvenerableandshadytrees,aspringissueswhich,gushingoutindifferentandunequalstreams,formsitself,afterseveralwindings,intoaspaciousbasin,soextremelyclearthatyoumayseethepebbles,andthelittlepiecesofmoneythatarethrownintoit,astheylieatthebottom."Ihavequotedthispassage,notbecausethesourceoftheClitumnusatallresemblesthatoftheriveratNimes,butbecauseofthementionofthecoinsthrownin.SuetoniusspeaksofthissamepracticeinhislifeofAugustus.NowthisfountainatNimeshasyielded,andyieldsstill,analmostinexhaustiblesupplyofRomanandGaulishandGallo-Greekcoinsthathavebeenthusthrowninasoblationstothenymphsinremotetimes;andthesecoinsarenowinthemuseumsofNimesandParis,andinthoseofprivatecollectors.Thesamecustomstillremains,butinsteadofcoins,pinsarenowcastintosprings.

[Illustration:Inthepublicgardens,Nimes.]

Attheentrancetothepublicgardens,overtheirongateisamedallionrepresentingacrocodileandapalm-tree.ThemomentIsawitIstoodstillandstared.Iknewthatsymbol,hadknownitfromaboy.AndthisishowIcametoknowit.LivingmuchinthesouthofFrance,andhavingalways

ahankeringafteroldthings,Icollectedcoins,andIgotthemfromthepriests.ThepeasantswerewonttodropoldRomancoinswhichtheyfoundintheirfieldsintotheoffertorybagsandplates,andasthesewereofnousetothe_cures_,theywereverygladtogiveorsellthemtomeforsmallcurrentsous.BythismeansIsucceededinmakingaverytolerablecollectionofRomancoinsatanincrediblysmallcost.Nowamongthese,oneoftheveryfirstIgot,andmostcurious,representedOctaviusandAgrippaononeside,andonthereversethisidenticalsymbolofacrocodileunderapalmtree.OftenenoughdidIturnthatcoinoverandwonderwhatitmeant,andhighlydelightedwasItodiscoveritssignificationatlength.ItwassymbolicalofthesubjugationofEgypt,andwasstruckincomplimenttoAgrippa.ThenmostassuredlyAgrippahadsomethingtodowithNimes.IturnedtoalittlehistoryoftheplacethatIhad,andtomydelightfound

thatheitwaswhoisheldtohavebeenthegreatbenefactor,indeedmaker,ofthislittletown.

IhavethegreatestpossiblerespectforAgrippa.Hisstern,yetnobleface,onceseeninthisbustisnevertobeforgotten,andinfinitelysad--sadbeyondcomparisoninhistoryisthestoryofhisfamily.

Hewasamanofobscure,plebeianbirth,MarcusVipsaniusAgrippa,belongingtoafamily,theVipsanian,ofwhichthegentlemenofRomeprofessednevertohaveheard,ornottohavefounditnecessarytotroubletheirheadstolearnanything.Hewasafinesoldier,amanofplainmanners,goodmorals,upright,faithful,unambitious.OctaviusAugustuswaswarmlyattachedtohim,andvaluedhisgoodqualitiesandhisadmirable

militarygenius;andAgrippaonhissidewastenderlydevotedtohisnoblefriend.Theircharacterswereasunlikeastheirfacesandastheirmanners.WhenOctaviusbecamethesupremerulerofthedestiniesofRome,heheapedhonoursonhisfriend.HemadehimputawayhiswifeandmarryhisowndaughterJulia.Hehadchildrenbyher,CaiusandLucius,whogrewtoman'sestateandthendied,onefromawound,theotherofdecline,andanotherson,anill-conditionedboy,AgrippaPosthumus,puttodeath,probablybyorderofOctavius,acommissiongivenonhisowndeathbed,tosaveRomefrominternecinewar.



Hisdaughter,Agrippina,starvedherselftodeath,heartbrokenatthemurderofhertwosonsbyTiberius,anddespairingatthethoughtthatherotherson,thecrazy,debauched,cruelCaligulawasalonelefttorepresentherfamily.TheotherdaughterofAgrippa,Julia,wasinfamousforherdebaucheries,anddiedinbanishment.ThefamilywasthenrepresentedbythesecondAgrippina,daughterofthefirstAgrippina,whobecamethemotherofNero--thatsonwhowashismother'sandhisbrother'smurderer,anddiedfinallybyhisownhand,amidsttheexecrationsoftheRomanworld.

ThesadshadowthatliesonthebrowofAgrippaalmostseemstobecasttherebythedestinyawaitinghisfamily.Notonedropofhisbloodmingledwiththesacred_ichor_oftheJulianraceremainsonearth.ButotherremnantsofAgrippaabide.ThePantheonofRome,andthePontduGardnearNimes,aye--andthebathshemadeforthewasherwomeninthewaterheledintothistown,thattheymightnotsullythesacredspringthatwelledupbeforethetempleoftheNymphs.

Agrippainhisvariousofficesandgovernorshipsaccumulatedgreatwealth,buthewasnotagraspingman,noronewhospenthiswealthuponhimself.Whereverhewas,heexpendedhisfortuneonimprovingandembellishingthecitiesunderhissway.Thusitwasthatforquiteaninconsiderablelittletown,whichtheclassicauthorspassoverwithoutnotice,helavishedverylargesumstoprovideitwithexcellentwaterfromtwospringstwenty-five

milesdistant,notthattheriverthatrisesatNimesisimpure,butthatacertainawefeltforitwithheldthenativesfromdesecratingthesacredwaterstocommonuse.

ThePontduGardwhichcarriedthewatersbythreetiersofarchesacrossthevalleyoftheGurdon,ataheightofonehundredandeightyfeet,isoneofthemoststrikingandperfectofthemonumentsleftbytheRomansinGaul,oranywhere;anditiscertainlyremarkablethatthetwomostcompleterelicsofthisgreatpeoplethatremain,shouldhavebeentheworkofAgrippa,thePantheonandthePontduGard.Thislatterisacolossalwork.Itslengthis873feetattop,andmaywellbecomparedtoitsadvantagewiththemodernaqueductthatconveyswatertothePradoofMontpellier,amorelengthy,butafeeblestructure.

[Illustration:ThePontduGard.]

TheRomanremainsinNimesareheldfamouseverywhere.Nowhere,leastofallinRome,aretherelicsofthatgreatpeopleofbuilderstobeseeninsuchperfection.Thereistheamphitheatre,smaller,butmoreperfecteven,thanthatatArles.Thereisthe_MaisonCarree_,atemplealmostquiteperfect,andofsurpassingproportionalperfection.Smallthistempleis:itconsistsofthirtyelegantCorinthiancolumns,tenofwhicharedisengaged,andformtheportico,whereastheremainderareengagedinthe _naos_orsanctuary.Noengravingcangiveanideaofitsloveliness.ItisthebestexamplewehaveinEurope,ofatemplethatisperfectlyintact.Itismignon,itischeerful,itischarming.Ifoundmyselfunableatany

timetopassitwithoutlookingroundovermyshoulder,againandagain,andutteringsomeexclamationofpleasureatthesightofit.

[Illustration:TheMaisonCarree,Nimes.]

Thattempleisinstructiveinawaytheordinarytravellerwouldhardlysuspect.ItisavaluableexampletousofthecompleteandradicaldifferencethatexistedbetweenthePaganandtheChristianideasofworship.ThePaganworldhadnoideaofgatheringacongregationtogether,anymorethanImaysayhavetheoldcanonsofFlorence,orofS.Peter's,



Rome,whoshutthemselvesintoglassboxes,ofbringingallmenintoonebuildingtouniteinprayerandpraise.ThesanctuariesofthePagangodswerequitesmallanddark.Worshipwassimplyanindividualmatter,abringingofasacrificetoanaltar.TherewasnothinglikecongregationalworshipintheJewishtempleeither.Thepriestalonewentwithintooffertheincense,whilstthepeoplestoodwithout.ButintheChristianchurchtheconditionofaffairswascompletelyreversed.TheworshipofGodwastobeforallthepeople,alltogether,withoneheartandonevoice.ThatiswhytheearlyChristiansinthefourthcenturyneveradaptedatempletoachurch.Atemplecouldnotbeadapted.Thepillarswerealloutside,andwithinwasalittledarkbox--thesanctuary--thatwouldnotholdmorethanacoupleofscoreofpersons.Theycouldnotusethetemples;whattheywantedweretemplesturnedoutside-in,thepillarswithinforminggreathallsinwhichacrowdmightbegathered.

Ihadbeenlookingatthisdelightfullittletempleandconsideringthis,anditwasaSunday.Isaunteredon,thisstillonmymind,whenIfellinwithtrainsofschoolchildren,alldriftinginonedirection.Ifollowedthem,andfoundmyselfinthegreatnewchurchofS.Baudille.Thetimewasafternoon.Thechurch,quiteacathedralinsize,wascrowded,boys'schools,girls'schools,men,women,ofallsortsandrankswerethere.ThenIheardsuchaserviceasdidtheheartgoodtohear.Itwasonlyvespers--justfivepsalms,ahymn,andtheMagnificat;nothingmore.Butthepsalmsweresunginalternateversesbetweenthechoirandthe

congregation,whokneweverywordandeverynote,andsanglustilyfromtheirhearts'depths,theplainoldGregoriantoneswithwhichmanyofusaresofamiliarathome.Ifoundthewordswellingupinmymind:"Thevoiceofagreatmultitude,andasthevoiceofmanywaters,andasthevoiceofmightythunderings,saying,Alleluia:fortheLordGodOmnipotentreigneth."Iwasgladtherewasnoonewithmeaswedispersed,tospeaktome.Icouldnothaveanswered,myheartwastoofull.ButIwentbacktotheMaisonCarree,andlookedagainatitforlong,andthenrealised,inawayIhadneverrealisedbefore,howthattheCarpenterofNazarethhadtransformedthewholeideaofworshipintosomethingofwhichtheworldpreviouslyhadnoconception.

TotheordinaryEnglishtravellertheservicesinaforeignRomanCatholic

churcharesounintelligiblethatImaybeexcusedifIsayawordonvespersthatmayenablehimtounderstandit.Usually--alwaysonweekdays--twoeveningservices,vespersandcomplinearesaidtogether,orratheroneimmediatelyaftertheother.Eachconsistsofconfessionandabsolution,ashortScripturallesson,psalms,acanticle,ahymnandcollects.ThecanticleforvespersistheMagnificat;forcomplineistheNuncDimittis.

Nowasthetwoserviceswerepracticallyunited,whatourReformersdidwastoweldthemtogether.Theycutoutthesecondconfessionandabsolutionandthesecondbatchofpsalms,butretainedthesecondlessonandthesecondcanticle.TheEnglisheven-songisthereforesimplytheLatinvespersandcomplinepressedintoasingleservice.TheReformers,by

puttingapsalmasalternativeforeachcanticle,perhapsintendedtheEnglisheven-songtoserveaseithervespers(whenMagnificatwassung)orascompline(whenNuncDimittiswassung).

WhenIwasinRomeduringthewinter,Iwasverymuchastonished,oneday,astheKingofItalypassed,toseeawholeschooloflittleboysunderthedirectionofthreeChristianBrothers,strutbywiththeirlittlenosesintheair,andwithoutraisingtheirhats.AtthesamepensionwithmyselfwasayoungSwissBenedictinemonk,whosatbymeat_tabled'hote_,andwithwhomIstruckupawarmfriendship.IcommentedtohimonwhatIhad



seen."Oh!"hereplied,"wemakeapointofneversalutingtheking.Why,"hecontinued,"onlyyesterdayIwaswalkingdowntheCorsowithCardinalU----,whenwesawthequeen'scarriageapproaching.Iaskedwhatwastobedone.Hiseminencereplied,'Keepyourhaton,don'tnoticeher.'"

IconfessthatmyEnglishbloodboiledup,andforthefirstandlasttimeIspokesharplytomyfriend.IbelieveImadeacertainallusiontoaninjunctionofS.Paul,andtoldhimplainlythatIthoughtsuchconductunbecominginagentlemanandaChristian,andapriest.

OnenteringFranceonesseeswhatdevastationtheRevolutionwroughtontheChurch,andonecomparestheconditiontherewiththeverylightandeasywayinwhichshehasbeentakenoutofhertemporalthroneandseatedonthegroundinItaly.Shehasbeentreatedtheretooeasily,soeasilythatshepouts,andfrets,andsulks;whereasinFranceshehasbeenanAntaeuswhorosefromthegroundstrongerthanwhencastdown.InRome,theChurchshufflesalonginheroldslouching,hands-in-the-pockets,half-asleep,don't-carestyle,lettingeveryopportunityslipaway,neglectedbythepeople,becausesheneglectsthem.InFrance,theChurchistinglingwithfreshlife-bloodtoherfingers'ends,fullofenergy,activity,zeal.Why,thereisnottobefoundinRome,orFlorence,orNaples,achurchwhereatolerableserviceistobeheardsung.InRomeonegetssickofandangrywiththesquallingofeunuchs,andlongsforascourgeofsmallcordstodrivethemoutofthetemple.NoonecaresfortheChurchservicesinRome.

Noattemptismadetoattractthepeopletothem.AtFlorencetheserviceislikethebleatingofaflockofsheepdrivenintoapentobeshorn,andtheoldcanonswhobaaareenclosedwithinglassagainstdraughts,andtotheexclusionofallcongregationalworship.ButinFrance,thepeoplewhohaveanyreligioninthemlovetheirservices--lovethemandhavemadethemtheirown,singinthemandfollowthemwitheagerinterest.Iremember,whenIwasayouthinFrance,thatfewmenwereseeninchurch,andtheladiesloungedthroughtheservice.Itisnotsonow,youseeasmanymeninchurchasyouwillinEngland,andthewomenareattentiveanddevout.TheItalianChurchmustsufferdeeperhumiliation,andlearntotouchhercapto"thepowersthatbe,ordainedofGod,"beforethepeoplewillrallytoherandshowherreverence.

OnthesummitofthehillabovethefountainandtempleoftheNymphsisamostpuzzlingbuilding,the_Tourmagne_.ItisofRomanconstruction,agreattowerlikethatofBabel,instages,theupperstagewithsemicircularrecessesthatsustainedtheexternalwall,nowinpartfallen.Noonecantellitspurpose.IthasclearlybeenutilisedsinceitsfirstconstructionbytheRomans,bymakingitanangletowerofsomeotherbuilding,thefoundationsofwhichhavebeenquiterecentlyexposed.Thetowerisoctagonal.ItresemblesthestructureofthelighthouseatOstia,alreadymentionedasintheTorloniagallery.Butwhyalighthousehere?ItistruethattothesouthofNimeswaslagoonandmarsh,withisletsandstripsofdrylandscatteredaboutamongthetractsofwater,allthewaytothesea,butonehardlysupposessuchalighthousewouldhavebeenraisedtoguidethe_utriculares_ontheirskin-sustainedrafts.Yetfor

whatotherpurposeitcanhavebeenraiseditishardtoimagine.Itstandsonveryhighground,andcommandsamostextensiveprospect.Ithaslongbeen,andislikelytoremain,ahardnutforantiquariestobreaktheirteethupon.

ThecathedralofNimeshasbeen,notsomuchrestoredastransformedinternally,soastovoiditofmuchinterest,butitmusthavebeenacuriouschurchatonetime.Externally,atthewestend,isamostwonderfulfrieze,abandofrichsculpturerepresentingthestoryofmanfromtheCreationtothedrunkennessofNoah.Inonechapelwithinis



anoldChristiansarcophagusutilisedasanaltar,onitourLordisrepresentedasteachersurroundedbytheapostles.S.Paulisamodernchurchgoodinproportion,withanadmirablecentraloctagonaltowerandspire.Theonlyfaulttobefoundwiththechurchisinthedetails.S.BaudilleisapretentiousGothicchurch,withtwoasparagusshootsaswesterntowers,ithasasquareeastend,withareallymarvellouslyuglyeastwindow.ThenewchurchofS.Perpetueisbeneathcriticism.

[Illustration:CathedralofNimes.--Partofwestfront.]

TherearetwoRomantriumphalarchesatNimes,butneitherisremarkable.InfrontofoneIfoundamanexhibitingacageofcanaries.Hehadalittletablebeforethecageonwhichsmallcards,eachnumbered,weresetout.Thenhesoldamongthebystandersticketswithcorrespondingnumbers.Therewereeighteennumbers,andeachcardsoldforasou,andthewholeconstitutedalotteryforachainandsomesealsthatthefellowdangledbeforetheeyesofthelittlecircleoflookers-on.Thelotsweretakenupafteralittlepersuasionandchaffering.Thenheopenedthecagedoor;outhoppedacanarythattrottedupanddownthelittletable,andfinallypickeduponeofthecards."Numbernine,"calledtheproprietorofthecanaries."Whichmonsieuristhehappypossessorofcardnumbernine?"Asoldiersteppedforward,presentedhistally,andreceivedthesilverwatch-chain.Thenallthosewhohadbeenunsuccessfulrestoredtheircards,andthesameprocesswasrepeated,thistimeamongwomen,forasilver

thimble.

Nimesstruckmeasoneoftheverybrightest,pleasantesttownsIhaveevervisited,andtheoneinwhich,ifforcedtoliveoutofEngland,IthinkIcouldlivemosthappilyin.IhavesaidnotonewordaboutthemuseumatNimes,whichiswithintheMaisonCarree,andyetthemuseumcontainssomeobjectsdeservingofattention.Therearetwoaltarswithwheelscarvedonthem,bothsmall,thelargestonlytwofeetthreeincheshigh,andthathasonitnotthewheelonly,butthethunderbolt.ThesearealtarstotheGaulishgodofthesun.Thesecondbearsaninscription"etterraematri."Itwasdedicateddoubtlesstothe"sunandtotheearthmother,"butthefirstportionofthelegendislost.IntheAvignonMuseumisastatueofaGaulishJupiterinmilitarycostume,withhisrighthandonthewheel,and

withtheeagleonhisleft.[1]

[Footnote1:OthersatTreves,Moulin,andParis.]

Moreover,intheNimesmuseumaresomebronzecircularornaments,foundin1883inthecavesofS.ValloninArdeche,representingthewheel.OnthetriumphalarchofOrangeareGaulishwarriorswithhornedhelmets,andwheelsascrestsbetweenthehorns.Thewheel,assymbolofthesun,wasverygeneraleverywhere,intheeastaswellasthewest,amongtheGermansaswellasamongtheGauls,butamongthelatteritassumedaveryspecialimportance,anditisduetothisfactthatintheFrenchcathedralsthewestwindowisawheelwindow.AtBaslethereisaroundwindowintheminsterwithfiguresclimbingandfallingonthespokes,andFortunesits

inthemidst.ItisawheelofFortune.ItisthesameatBeauvais,atAmiens,andelsewhere.AtChartresisarepresentationinstainedglassoftheTransfiguration;andChristisexhibitedingloryinthemidstofaneight-spokedwheel.AcuriousstatueatLuxeuil,nowlost,representedariderprotectingaladywhilsthishorsetramplesonaprostratefoe;hisraisedhandoverthewomanisthrustthroughasix-rayedwheel.OntheMeuseasimilarpeculiarityhasbeennoticedinafragmentofasculpturedfigure,itisahandholdingafour-spokedwheel.IntheMuseumKircherianumatRomearebronzesix-rayedwheels,thespokeszigzaggedlikelightnings,foundatForli,othersatModena.Alltheseweresymbolsof



thesun.NowwhenConstantineprofessedtohaveseenhisvision,whichwasinallprobabilityamock-sun,hethoughtthattherayshesawformedtheGreekinitialsofChrist,andhethereforeorderedtheseinitials,_formingasix-rayedwheel_,tobesetuponthestandardsofhissoldiers.Theonlydifferencebetweenhis"Labarum"andthesymboloftheGaulishsun-godwasthathisupperspokewasloopedtoformtheletterP.Nodoubtwhatever,thathisKelticsoldiershailedthenewstandardasthatoftheirnationalgod,andthatwhentheymarchedagainstMaxentiusandmethimatSaxaRubra,eightmilesfromRome,theythoughtthatthey,asGauls,weremarchingtoasecondcaptureofthecapitaloftheworld,undertheprotectionoftheirnationalgod.

AmongmenofnotethathavebeenassociatedwithNimesisFlechier,bornatPernesinVauclusein1632,whobecameBishopofNimesin1687.Hewasthesonofatallow-chandler.Fromhiseloquencehewasmuchregardedasapreacher,butunfortunatelyhisdiscoursescontainverylittleexceptwell-roundedsentencesofwell-chosenwords.HewasafavouriteofLouisXIV.,whorespectedhisintegrityandpiety.OnedayahaughtyaristocraticprelateabouttheCourthadthebadtastetosneerathimforhisorigin."Avecvotremanieredepenser,"repliedFlechiercalmly,"jecroisquesivousetieznecequejesuis,vousn'eussiezfait,toutevotrevie--quedechandelles."

CHAPTERXVI.

AIGUESMORTESANDMAGUELONNE.

Adeadtown--TheRhones-morts--Bars--S.LouisandtheCrusades--HowS.LouisacquiredAiguesMortes--Hiscanal--Thefourlittoralchainsandlagoons--Thefortifications--Uniquefortheirdate--Originaluseofbattlements--Desertedstateofthetown--Maguelonne--Howreached--HistoryofMaguelonne--Cathedral--TheBishopsforgeSaracencoins--Seconddestructionoftheplace--Inscriptionondoor--BernarddeTreviis--His

RomanceofPierredeProvence--Provencalpoetrynotalwaysimmoral--PresentstateofMaguelonne.

AiguesMortesisadeadtown,anddiffersfromMaguelonne,tobepresentlydescribed,inthis,thatitisadead_town_,whereasMaguelonneisonlytheghostofadeadtown.Itisagreatcuriosity,foritisadeadmediaevaltownsurroundedbyitswalls,anddominatedbyitskeep.Butfirstaboutitsname,whichsignifiesDeadWaters.IfthereaderwillrememberwhathasbeenalreadysaidaboutthestructureofthedeltaoftheRhone,hewillrecallthefactthattheriverisconstantlyengagedinchangingitsmouths.Whenithasformedforitselfanewmouth,itdesertsitsformercourse,whichitleavesasastagnatingcanal.Thisoccasionsthe

deltatobestripedwithwhatarelocallytermedRhones-morts,whereasaflowingbranchiscalledaRhone-vif.

[Illustration:AiguesMortes.--Oneofthegates.]

MoreoverthestagnantmassesofwaterleftbyfloodsarecalledAiguesMortes--DeadWaters;anditispreciselyonsuchthatthelittlefortifiedtownIamnowwritingabout,stands.IknowofnopointonthelittoraloftheRhonethatofferssoexcellentanopportunityofobservingtheprocessesofthatriverthanatAiguesMortes.Theriverhas,indeed,long



agodesertedthebranchthatoncedischargeditselfhere,andithasleftfourlinesbehindit,makingsuccessivestagesofadvance,fourbars,withtheirseveralbackwaters,nowconvertedintopondsormeres.TheCanalofBeaucairenowpassesbyAiguesMortes,andreachestheMediterraneannearlythreemilesbelowthetown.

ItwasfromAiguesMortesthatS.LouissailedonhisCrusadesin1248and1270;andithasalittlepuzzledmanypeopletoaccountforhishavingchosensuchawretchedplaceasthisfortheassemblyofhisCrusadersandforembarkation.Buthecouldnothelphimself.

[Illustration:AiguesMortes.--ToweroftheBourgignons.]

AssoonasLouishad,in1244,madehisvowtoassumethecross,hisfirstcarewastoobtainontheshoresoftheMediterraneanaterritoryandaportsufficientfortheconcentrationofthetroopsthatweretofromhisexpedition.Butheencounteredgreatdifficulty.Thekingwasnot _suzerain_overthesouthernprovincesofFrance,andpossessedashisownnotasingletownonthecoast.TheportofNarbonnewaschokedwithsand,andbelongedtotheviscountsofthattown.TheportofMaguelonnewasunderthesovereigntyofthebishop.ThelagoonsandtheiropeningsintotheseaofMontpellierwereundertheKingofAragon.TheportsofAgdeandS.GillesweresubjecttothecountsofToulouse,andindependentProvencewasnottobeattachedtothecrowntillthreecenturieslater.Themarshy

districtofAiguesMorteswasaloneavailable;itwasundertheabbeyofPsalmodi,plantedamidsttheswampsonalittlesandyelevation.LouisIX.enteredintonegotiationswiththeabbot,andinexchangeforcertainroyaldomainsnearSommiere,hewasenabledtoacquirethetownofAiguesMortesandallthezoneoflagoonsbetweenitandthesea.

Atthattimethereexistedbutasinglefortification--thetowerofMatafera--erectedaboutfivecenturiesbeforeasaplaceofrefugefromtheSaracens.S.Louisrestoredthistower,orratherrebuiltit,intheforminwhichitremainstothisday.Thenheconstructedaquay,andscoopedoutacanalthroughthelagoonstothesea.Thisistheoldcanal,nowfullofsand,andupthisvesselswereabletoproceedthroughtwolagoonstothetowerofMatafera,whichacquiredlaterthenameofTourdeConstance.

Buttheoldcanalhadanephemeralexistence;everyinundationofthelagoonsoftheRhonealteredtheirdepths,anddisturbedthecanal.Acenturyortwolateranothercanalwascutbetweentheoldoneandthatnowinuse,thatalsowasdestinedintimetobechokedup;buttheolddischargingandladingplaceofthevesselscanstillbedistinguishedbytheheapsofballastthrownout,consistingofstonesfromGenoaandCorsica.ItisquiteamistaketosupposethatAiguesMorteswasontheseainthethirteenthcentury.TheCrusadersembarkedinthecanalcutbyS.Louis,andsailedthroughthelagoonsbeforetheyreachedtheopenMediterranean.

ThemostancientmapsshowusAiguesMortesbathedbyoneofthosebranchesoftheRhone,nowdeserted,whichgobythenameofRhones-morts.Atatime

beforehistory--atalleventsthehistoryofGaulbegins,theRhonehaditsprincipalmouthinthegreatEtangdeMaugio;butitchokedupitsmouththere,andadvancedeastwardinseveralstages,leavinginitsrear,astheriverthusshifteditsquarters,aseriesofdwindlingandthendeadchannels.

[Illustration:SketchmapofMortesanditslittoralchains.]

WhatisnowthePetitRhone,reachingtheseaatLesSaintesMaries,wasthenthemainstream,whichhaslongagoturnedaway,andnowdischarges



itsgreatestbodyofwaterintotheMediterraneanatSaintLouis.Ithasleftbehindit,notonlythedeadorstagnantRhones,itsneglectedbeds,butalso,asalreadynoticed,itsoldbars,andtheseareverydistinctlymarkedatAiguesMortes.Thefirstchaingivesustheprimitivebeach,whichbeganatthelagoonofMaugio,traversedtheentireCamargue,andcanbetracedtoFos.Itisformedofanalmostuninterruptedsuccessionofsandhillscrownedwithatolerablyrichvegetation;onitgrowthewhitepoplar,thealeppoandtheumbrellapines.Tothesouthofthislaytheprehistoricsea;thegroundishorizontal,andalthoughsubjectedtocultureshowssufficientevidencethatitwasatonetimesea-bed,coveredwithmorerecentalluvium.HereisthegreatlagoonofLoyran,which,beforemanyyearsarepassed,willbecompletelydrained,anditsbedturnedupbytheplough.

Stilladvancingseaward,wereachasecondlittoralchain,notsodistinctlymarkedasthefirst,butneverthelessdistinguishablebyitslowlineofsandydunes,onwhichascantygrowthoftamarisksandcoarsegrassissustained.Thenwecometoasuccessionoflagoons,onceunitedintoone,andafterthemthethirdbar,presentingexactlythesamefeatures--alowrangeofsandandpebbles,andbeyonditoncemorelagoons,cutofffromthewavesoftheMediterraneanbyafourthandlastchain,themostrecent,thatbelongstothehistoricepoch.

Butthatisnotall:thewashofthesea,itscurrentsettlingwest,and

carryingwithitthemudoftheRhoneisgradually,butsurelybuildingupafifthbarorbank,whichwillintimeclosethegulffromthepointofEspignettetothebathing-placeofPalavas,whentheGulfofAiguesMorteswillbeconvertedintoasecondEtangdeBerre.

[Illustration:MapofTHECOASTOFPROVENCE&LANGUENDOCshowingOldLagoons&DesertedRiverMouths]

AiguesMortesissurroundedbyitsmediaevalfortificationsjustastheywereleftbyPhiliptheBold,sonofS.Louis.Theplanofthetownisalmostquadrilateral,ithassixgatesandfifteentowers.Onlyoneangleoftheparallelogramiscutoff,wherestandsthestatelycirculartowerofConstance.Thestreetsarelaidoutinthemostprecisemanner,cutting

eachotheratrightangles;therearefourchurches,ofwhichtheprincipalisNotreDamedesSablons.Theotherswereallformerlyattachedtomonasteriesorconvents.

[Illustration:Originaluseofbattlements.--(_FromViollet-le-Duc._)]

TheplanofthefortificationispreciselythatadoptedbytheCrusaderswherevertheybuiltdefences,inSyria,inCyprus,inPalestine.Thewallsarecrenellated,usuallywithoutmachicolations,piercedwithlongslots,andwithsquareholesthroughwhichbeamswerethrust,supportingwoodenbalconieswhichcommandedthebasesofthewalls,andenabledthebesiegedtoprotectthemselvesagainsttheeffortsmadebytheassailantstosapthebasesoftheramparts,ortoescaladethewalls.Towers,roundandsquare

atintervals,strengthenedthewalls,andformedpointsofvantageandofassemblyforthebesieged.PreciselysimilarfortificationswereraisedaboutthesameperiodatTortosa,Antioch,Ascalon,Caesarea,&c.;butallthesehavebeendestroyed,onlyAiguesMortesremains,anuniqueandperfectexampleofthesystematicfortificationadoptedbytheCrusaderseverywhere.

Thereader,probably,hasnotgivenathoughttotheoriginalpurposeofabattlement,socommonontowersandchurchesandcastles.Ithereforeventuretoshowwhatitwasoriginally.Itwasawallbrokenthrough



withdoorwaysintothewoodengallerythatoverhung,andthroughwhichtheassailantscouldbekeptfromapproachingtooneartothebaseofthewalls.But,afteratime,thesewoodengallerieswerefoundtobeinconvenient.Meansweretakenbythebesiegerstosetthemonfire.Consequentlytheywereabandoned,andtheirplacesweretakenbyprojectinggalleriesofstone,supported,notonwoodenbeams,butonstonecorbels,anditisthissecondstageinfortificationwhichiscalledmachicolation.Thebattlementswereretained,butwerenolongerroofedover.ConsequentlyitispossibletotellapproximatelytheepochofaMediaevalfortification,byalookatthebattlements,whethertheystandbackflushwiththewalls,andhavethebeam-holes,orwhethertheystandforward,bracketedoutfromthewalls.

[Illustration:Secondstageofbattlements.]

AiguesMortesisadeadtown.Aboutathirdoftheareawithinthewallsisdevotedtogardens,oriswaste.Thepopulation,whichinthethirteenthcenturynumbered15,000souls,hasshrunktoalittleover3,000,anumberatwhichitremainsstationary.Itdoesalittlesleepytradeinsalt,andseesthebargesforBeaucairepassitswalls,andperhapssuppliestheboatmenwithwineandbread.Theneighbourhoodisdesolate.Thesoilissofullofsaltthatitisimpatientoftillage,andproducesonlysuchherbsaslovetheseaborder.Butitslagoonsarealivewithwildfowl,rose-colouredflamingoes,whitegulls,andgreenmetallic-throatedducks.

AndnowforMaguelonne.IsaidthatAiguesMorteswasadeadtown,butMaguelonnewastheghostofone.ThebestwaytoreachthislatterverysingularspotistotakethetrainfromMontpelliertoVilleneuvedeMaguelonne,andwalkthencetotheborderoftheEtang.Thereoneisprettysuretofindfishermen--theycatchlittleelsethaneels--whowillrowoneacrosstothenarrowstripoflandthatintervenesbetweenthelagoonandthesea.Thelittoralchainhereisnotofsandandgravelonly,foramassofvolcanictufarisestothesurface,andoriginallyformedanisletinthesea,then,whentheprocessbeganofformingalittoralbeltwithalagoonbehindit,thesandsclungtothisisletandspreadoutfromittoleftandright.

OnthisvolcanicisletstoodfirstaGreekandthenaRomancity,butofitshistorynothingisknowntillthesixthcentury,whenitwasattackedfromtheseabyWamba,KingoftheVisigoths.Ithadbeenanepiscopalcityforacenturybefore.AftertheVisigothscametheSaracens,whogavetheplacetheirname,andtheharbourofMaguelonnewascalledPortSarasin.In737,CharlesMartel,inordertoclearthepiratescompletelyoutoftheirstronghold,destroyedthecitytoitslastfoundation,withthesoleexceptionoftheoldchurchofS.Peter.ThebishoptookuphisabodeonthemainlandatVilleneuve,andtheseatofthebishopricwasmovedtoCastelnaunearMontpellier.Forthreecenturiestheisletwasabandonedandleftaheapofruins.Butitwasrestoredintheeleventhcentury.Thewallswereagainsetup,andflankedwithtowers,andacausewayconsistingofachainofwoodenbridgeswascarriedacrossthelagoontoVilleneuve.

TheentrancetotheportwasclosedlestitshouldinviteSaracenpirates,andanotheropenedunderthewallsofthetownwhichcouldberenderedimpassablebyachainatthefirstsignofdanger.Thenewly-builttownspeedilyshowedvigour,becamepopulous,andtheharbourwasfilledwiththemerchandiseoftheMediterranean.Twopopesvisitedthecity,GelasiusII.in1118,andAlexanderIII.in1162.InadditiontotheCathedralofS.Peter,otherchurcheswereraised,dedicatedtoS.AugustineandS.Pancras.Acastlewithkeepwaserected.

ForseveralcenturiesMaguelonnewasasortofecclesiasticalrepublic,in



whichthebishopexercisedtheofficeofpresident.Itbecameveryrichandluxurious.Thebishop,nottooscrupulous,forgedimitationSaracencoins,andwascalledtoorderfordoingthisbyClementIV.in1266.Itseemedtothesovereignpontiffascandal,notthatthebishopshouldforgethecoins,butthatheshouldforgethemwiththenameofMahometonthemas"ProphetofGod."In1331statutesforthemonasteryonMaguelonneweredrawnup,whichprovedthatthedisciplinekeptthereinleftmuchtobedesired;andamonastictreatiseoncookingthatcamethenceshowsthatthemonksandcanonswereconsummateepicures.

MaguelonnewasruinedfirstbyCharlesMartel.Itwasagain,andfinallyruined,byLouisXIII.Thecastle,thewalls,thetowers,themonasticbuildings--everythingwaslevelledtothedust,withthesoleexceptionofthecathedralchurch.Thestonesofthedismantledbuildingsencumberedthegroundtill1708,whentheywereallcarriedofffortheconstructionofthenewcanalwhichrunsalongthecoastthroughthechainoflagoonsfromCettetoAiguesMortes.

"Achurchanditsarchives,"saysthehistorianofMaguelonne,"thatisallthattherevolutionoffatehasrespectedofoneoftheprincipalmonasticcentresinthesouth.Achurchinwhichserviceisnolongersaid,andarchivesthatareincomplete.EventheverycemeteryofMaguelonnehasvanished,asthoughDeathhadfearedtoencounterhimselfinthisdesert,wherenaughtremainedsavetheskeletonofacathedral.Yetwhatdustis

here!Phoenician,Greek,Celtic,Roman,Christian,Mahomedan,French:Afewtombsescapedtheobservationofthestonecollectorsof1708,andevenfewerinscriptions,exceptingsuchasarefoundwithinthechurch,thatisall!Whatarealizationisthisofthesentenceonallthingshuman, _Pulvises_."[1]

[Footnote1:Germain:"MaguelonneetsesEveques,"1859.]

[Illustration:EastendoftheChurchofMaguelonne.]

TheisletofMaguelonneisbutoneknotinthelongthreadof_cordonlittoral_thatreachesfromCettetoAiguesMortes,anditcanbereachedonfootbylandfromPalavas,butthesimplestandshortestrouteisby

boatinhalfanhourovertheshallowmere,nowhereoverthreefeetsixinchesdeep.Theboatsofthefishermenareallflat-bottomed,andthemenhavetorowgingerly,lesttheiroarsstrikethebottom,orelsetheypuntalong.Onecanseeasonecrosses,thepointsofrestoftheoldcauseway.Thechurch,likethatofLesTroisMaries,isfeudalcastleasmuchascathedral,calculated,onoccasion,togiverefugewithintotheinhabitantsofthetown,whilstthegarrisonstoodontheflatroofandshoweredarrows,stones,moltensulphurandpitchuponthebesiegers.ThewholeofthiscoastwasliabletothedescentofMoorishandSaracenpirates,consequentlythesametypeofchurchprevailsallalongit.Thewesterntowerisruinous,buttheremainderofthechurchisintolerablecondition.Itiscruciform,withanapse,asbutverynarrowwindows,highupandfew.Theroofisslabbedwithstone,soastoformaterraceon

whichthebesiegedcouldwalk,andwhencetheycouldlaunchtheirweaponsthroughtheslotsandbetweenthebattlements.Atthesouth-westendofthechurchisacuriousentrancedoorofthetwelfthcentury,witharelievingarchofcolouredmarblesoverit,andtheapostlesPeterandPaulrudelysculpturedassupportersofthearch.Theyoccupyacrouchingposition,andaresculpturedontriangularblocks.InthetympanumistheSaviourseatedinglory.Butwhatinadditiontoitsquaintnessofdesigngivespeculiarinteresttothisdoorwayistheinscriptionitbears:--

ADPORTVMVITESITIENTESQVIQVEVENITE.



HASINTRANDOFORES,VESTROSCOMPONITEMORES.HINCINTRANSORA,TVASEMPERCRIMINAPLORA.QVICQVIDPECCATVRLACRIMARVMFONTELAVATVR.B.D.IIIVISFECITHOCANNOINC.DO.CLXXVIII.

LetthosewhowillcomethirstingtothegateofLife.Onenteringthesedoorscomposeyourmanners.Enteringherepray,andeverbewailyourcrimes.Allsiniswashedawayinthespringoftears.BernarddeTreviesmadethis,A.D.1178.

NowBernardoftheThree-Waysisamanwhodidsomethingelse--hewasanovelistandapoet.ACanonofMaguelonne,gentleandpureofheart,hewrotethestoryof'PierredeProvenceetlabelleMaguelone,'acharmingmonumentoftheoldLanguedoctongueworthytorangealongsidewith'AucassinetNicolette.'IthasbeentranslatedintomostEuropeanlanguages,Greeknotexcepted,andhasbecomeafavouritechapbooktale.ItisstillreadinallcottagesofFrance,soldatallfairs,butsadlymutilatedateachre-edition,andinitschapbookformreducedtoafewpages,whichisbutawretchedfragmentofaverydelightfulwhole.Noideaofitsbeautycanbeobtainedwithoutreferencetotheoldeditions,whereitoccupiesagoodlyvolume.

ThestoryofPierredeProvenceisnotoneofextraordinaryoriginality,

butitscharmliesinitsgeneraltone,healthy,pure,gentle,fullofthefreshnessofchivalryinitsfirstinstitution,andofreligioninitssimplicity.WeprobablyhavenotgotthepoeticromancequiteinitsoriginalformasitleftthehandsofBernard,forPetrarch,whilstastudentatMontpellier,wasstruckwithit,andaddedsomepolishingtouches,anditistheversionthusimprovedbyhismaster-handthatisbelievedtohavecomedowntous.Ishrinkfromstillfurthercondensingastoryspoiledalreadybycondensation,andyetdonotlikealtogethertopassitoverwithoutgivingthereadersomeideaofit.

ThestorytellsofaPeter,sonoftheCountofMelgueil,who,hearingthattheKingofNapleshadadaughterofsurpassingloveliness,determinedtorideandseeher.Hehadhimselfaccoutredinarmour,withsilverkeys

onhishelm,andonhisshield;andwhenhereachedNaplesjoustedintournamentbeforethefairprincess,whosenamewasMaguelone,andlovedherwell,andshehim.But,alas!thekinghadpromisedtogivehertothePrinceofCarponainmarriage,andasshefeltshecouldnotlivewithoutherPierre,andPeterwasquitesurehecouldnotlivewithouther,theyelopedtogether.Whenthesunwaxedburninghotshebecameveryweary,andheledherbeneathatree,andshelaidherheadonhiskneeandfellasleep.Thenhesawhowshehadinherbosomalittlesilkenbag,andhelightlydrewitforthandpeeredwithintoseewhatitcontained.Then,lo!hefoundthreeringsthathehadsentherbyhernurse.Afraidofwakingher,byreplacingthebag,helaiditbesidehimonastone,whendownswoopedaravenandcarrieditoff.Peteratoncefoldedhismantle,putitundertheheadofthesleepinggirl,andranafterthebird,whichflewto

theseaandperchedonarockaboveit.Peterthrewastoneattheravenandmadeitdropthebagintothewater.Thenhegotaboat,mooredhardby,jumpedintotheboatandwentafterthefloatingbagwiththerings.Butwindandwavesroseandbrushedhimouttosea,andcarriedhimacrosstheMediterraneantoAlexandria,wheretheSultanmadehimhispage.InthemeantimethefairMagueloneawokeinthegreenwood,andfindingherselfalone,ranaboutcalling"Pierre!Pierre!"butreceivednoanswer.Shespentthenightintheforest,andthentooktheroadtoRome,andencounteringafemalepilgrim,exchangedclotheswithher.Maguelonepursuedherjourney,prayedinS.Peter'sChurchatRome,unnoticedbyher



uncle,who,withgreatstate,passedbyherkneelingthere,andthrewheralms.ThenshewentontoGenoa,whereshetookboattoAiguesMortes.Hearingatthisplacethattherewasalittleislandoffthecoastsuitableforahermitage,thithershewent,andwithherjewelsshehadbroughtfromNaplesbuiltalittlechurchandahospital,inwhichsheministeredtosickpeople.TheCountessofMelgueil,hearingoftheholywoman,cametovisither,andwonbyhersympathy,withmanytearstoldherhowshehadlostherdearsonPeter,whohadgonetoNaples,andhadnotbeenheardofsince.

Oneday,afishermancaughtatunny,andbroughtitasapresenttothecount.Whenthetunnywasopened,initsstomachwasfoundalittlebagthatcontainedthreerings.Now,nosoonerdidthecountessseethesethansheknewtheywereherown,whichshehadgiventoPierre,andshehastedtotelltheanchoriteontheisleofthewondrousdiscovery,andtoshowhertherings.ItneedhardlybetoldthatMaguelonealsorecognisedthem.

NowtheSultanofAlexandriahadbecomesoattachedtoPeter,thathetreatedhimashisownson,andfinally,atPeter'sentreaty,allowedhimtoreturntoProvence,havingfirstextractedfromhimapromisetocomebacktohim.Petercarriedwithhimagreattreasureinfourteenbarrels,buttohidetheircontentshefilledupthetopswithsalt.ThenheengagedwithacaptainofatradertoconveyhimacrosstoProvence.Nowonedaythevesselstayedforwateratalittleisle,calledSagona,andPeterwent

onshore,andthesunbeinghot,laydownonthegrassandfellasleep.Awindsprangup.Thesailswerespread.ThecaptaincalledPeter.Themenraneverywheresearchingforhim,couldnotfindhim,andatlengthwerereluctantlyobligedtosailwithouthim.OnreachingProvencethecaptainwasunwillingtoretainthegoodsofthelostman,andsogavethemtotheholywomanwhoministeredtothesickinthehospitalshehadbuiltonatinyisletoffthecoast.OnedaywhenMaguelonewasshortofsaltshewenttofetchsomefromthebarrelsgivenherbytheship'scaptain,andtoheramazementfoundunderthesaltanincalculabletreasure.Withthisshesettoworktorebuildthechurchandherhospital.

Inthemeantime,Peterawoke,andfoundhimselfdeserted.Forsometimeheremainedintheisland,butfromwantoffoodanddiscouragementfellill,

andwouldhavediedhadnotsomefishermen,chancingtocomethere,takenhimintotheirboat.Theyconsultedwhattodowiththesickman,andonesaidthattheyhadbesttakehimtoMaguelone.OnhearingthenamePeteraskedwhattheymeant.Theytoldhimthatthiswasthenamegiventoachurchandhospitalrichlybuiltandtendedtobyaholywoman,onthecoastofProvence.Peterthenentreatedthemtocarryhimtotheplacethatboresofairaname.Sohewasconveyed,sickandfeeble,intothehostel;buthewassochangedwithsicknessthatMaguelonedidnotrecognisehim,andassheworeaveilhecouldnotseeherface.

NowMaguelone,whenevershewentbyhisbedheardhimsigh,soshestoodstilloneday,spokegentlytohim,andaskedwhatwashistrouble.Thenhetoldherallhisstory,andhowsadhisheartwasforhisdearMaguelone,

whomhehadlost,andmightneverseeagain.Shenowknewhim,andwitheffortconstrainedhervoicetobidhimpraytoGod,withwhomallthingsarepossible.Andwhensheheardhimraisehisvoiceinprayerwithmanysobs,shecouldnotcontainherself,butranofftothechurch,andkneelingbeforethealtargavewayalsototears,buttearsofjoymingledwithpsalmsofthanksgiving.Thenshearose,andbroughtforthherroyalrobes,andcastasidethoseofananchorite,andbadethatPierreshouldbegivenabathandbeclothedinprincelygarb.Afterwhichhewasintroducedintoherpresence.Ofthejoyoftherecognition,oftherestorationofthelostsontohisparents,ofthehappywedding,noneedthatIshouldtell.



ThechurchandhostelofMagueloneremainedeverafterastestimonytothevirtuesandpietyofLaBelleMaguelone,itsfoundress.

Suchisthemerestandbaldestsketchofthisgracefultale,toldbytheverymanwhocuttheinscriptionIcopiedfromthedoorofthechurch,inwhichheservedascanon.WhenVernonLeesaysofProvencalpoetrythatadultery--rankadulterywaswhatitlauded,wemustnotforgetthatthereisanothersidetobeconsidered--andthattheProvencalpoetsturnedtheirpensaswelltodrawingpureandartlesslove.

Thelandandtheoldchurcharenowthepropertyofaprivategentleman,aM.Fabre,whohasagreatlovefortheplace.Irememberthechurch,whenIwasachild,fullofhayandfaggots.Itisnowrestoredtosacreduses,butMassisonlysaidthereinonceintheyear.Theproprietorhasbuiltafarmhousenearit,andhasmovedhischildren'sbodiestotheoldcathedral,andpurposestobelaidtherehimself,whenhishourstrikes--surroundedbywaters:theseaononeside,thegreatmereofMaguelonneontheother.

CHAPTERXVII.

BEZIERSANDNARBONNE.

PositionofBeziers--S.Nazaire--TheAlbigenses--Theirtenets--Albigensian"consolation"--Crusadeagainstthem--ThestormingofBeziers--Massacre--CathedralofBeziers--Girls'facesinthetrain--SimilarfacesatNarbonne,inCathedralandMuseum--NarbonneaRomancolony--AlltheRomanbuildingsdestroyed--Capsofliberty--Christiansarcophagi--Children'stoysofbakedclay--Cathedralunfinished--ArchiepiscopalPalace--UnsatisfactoryworkofM.Viollet-le-Duc--Introublewiththepolice--TakenforaGermanspy--Mysketch-bookgetsmeoff.

ThepositionofBeziersisstriking.ItcrownsaheightabovetheOrb,itsgrandfortifiedchurchofS.Nazaireoccupyingthehighestpoint,whereitstandsonaplatform.Thisfinechurchisnotthecathedral.InLaMadeleineisthebishop'sthrone,achurchthat,withtheexceptionofthetowerandexterioroftheapse,hasbeenmodernisedoutofallinterest.ButS.Nazaireisastatelyandbeautifulchurchofthetwelfthtothefourteenthcentury,inthestyleofthecountry,verylittleornamentedexternally,andverystronglyfortified;eventhewindowsbeingmadeimpenetrablebytheirstrong_grilles_ofiron.Therearetwowesterntowers,small,withanarchthrownbetweentheirbattlements,overtherosewindow,andthisbattlementedarchwayisinfactascreenbehindwhichthebesiegedshelteredwhilsttheypoureddownmoltenpitchonthose

whoassailedthegatewayofthecathedral.Forthispurposethereisanopenspacebetweenthescreenandthefacade.Theapseofeightsides,internallyisfine;andthereisabeautifuloctagonalapsidalchapelonthenorthside,enteredfromthetransept.

Beziersisthesceneofahorribleslaughterin1209,afterthesiegebytheCrusadersunderSimondeMontfort.IthadbeenaheadquarteroftheAlbigenses.Aswearenowenteringtheregionreddenedwiththebloodoftheseheretics,itwillnotbeimproperheretogivealittleaccountofthem.



TheAlbigensesareoftenerroneouslyconfusedwiththeWaldenses,withwhomreallytheyhadlittleincommon.Actually,theAlbigenseswerenotChristiansatall,butManicheans.TheheresywasnothingotherthanthereawakeningofthedormantandsuppressedPaganismofthesouthofFrance.Thereareplentyofdocumentswhichenableustounderstandtheirpeculiartenetsandpractices.

[Illustration:Beziersfromtheriver.]

Theyheldadualismofgoodandevilprinciplesintheworld,equallymatched;andtheytaughtthattheevilprinciplewastheoriginofallcreatedmatter.AccordinglytheyrejectedtheOldTestament,anddeclaredthatalltheworldandman'sbodywereofdiabolicorigin,andthatthespiritonlywasdivine.WithregardtothepersonofChristtheyweredividedinopinion.SomesaidHehadaphantombody,andthatHeseemedonlytodieonthecross.TherealChristwasincapableofsuffering.ButanotherschoolamongthemdeclaredthatHehadatruebodybornofMaryandJoseph,andthatthiswasduetotheevilprinciple,andthatthisbodydidhangonthecross.ItwastheEvilGodoftheJewswhoslewPharaohintheRedSea.TheyheldthattheGoodGodhadtwowives,CollaandColiba,fromwhomhehadmanygenerationsofspiritualbeings.OftheGoodChrist,thespiritual,theyasserted,thatHeneitheratenordrank,thatHewasthesourceofallmercyandsalvation,butthattheBadChristwasthecarnal

onefollowingtheGoodChristastheshadowfollowsthebody;thatthisBadChristhadMagdalenashisconcubine.Theywerenotagreedastothefutureofman.Somedeniedtheexistenceofsouls,somesaidthatthesoulswerefallenangelsinhabitingmen'sbodies,othersthatthesoulwaspureandcouldonlyattaintoblessednessbyemancipationfromthebody,alltheworksofwhichwereevil.

ThefaithfuloftheAlbigensesweredividedintotwoorders,the"perfect,"whoworeablackdress,abstainedfromflesh,eggs,cheese,andfrommarriage;andthe"believers"whosesalvationwastobeattainedbyacertainceremonycalledthe"consolation."Thissacramentofconsolationwasperformedbyoneoftheperfectlayinghishandsonthebeliever;andafterconsolation,thenewly-consoledmuststarvehimselftodeath.Agreat

numberoftrialsofAlbigenseshavebeencollectedbyLimborchinhishistoryoftheInquisition.Oneonlycanwenowgive.Itisthatofawomanwhohadherselfconsoled,andsendingforasurgeon,orderedhimtoopenherveinsinabath,thatso,thebloodrunningoutmorefreely,shemightsoonerdie.Alsosheboughtpoison,asthebleedingdidnotsucceed,andprocuredacobbler'sawlwherewithtopierceherheart,butasthewomenwithherwereundecidedwhethertheheartwereontherightsideortheleft,shetookthepoison,andsodied.[1]

[Footnote1:WehavegottheActsoftheInquisitionatToulouseduringsixteenyears,between1307-1323.Thewholenumberofcasesreportedis932.Theusualsentenceononefoundguilty--unlessguiltyofcausingdeathby"consolation"--wastowearatongueofredclothonthegarments.Of

suchthereare174sentences.Ifacaseofrelapse,therewassentenceofbriefimprisonment,218cases;38werereportedashavingrunaway;40werecondemnedtodeathforhavingcausedthedeathofdupesby"consolation;"113wereletoffpenancespreviouslyimposed;139weredischargedfromprison,and90sentenceswerepronouncedagainstpersonsalreadydead. _See_Maitland'sTractsandDocumentsontheAlbigenses,1831.]

WecanunderstandwhatalarmthisgreatheathenreactioninProvenceandAquitaineawokeinFrance,andinthemindsofthepopes.



InnocentIII.atfirstemployedagainsttheAlbigensesonlyspiritualandlegitimateweapons;beforeproscribinghetriedtoconvertthem,butwhentheymurderedhisemissary,PeterdeCastelnau,in1208,heproclaimedaHolyWaragainstthem.Itwasawarundertakenonthepleaofapersonalcrime,butinrealityforthedispossessionofthenativeprinceswhowerebelievedtobeinfavouroftheheresy."ThecrusadeagainsttheAlbigensians,"saysM.Guizot,"wasthemoststrikingapplicationoftwoprinciplesequallyfalseandfatal,whichdidasmucheviltotheCatholicsastotheheretics;andthesearetherightofthespiritualpowertocoercesoulsbythematerialforceofthetemporalpower,andtherighttostripprincesoftheirtitletotheobedienceoftheirsubjects--inotherwords,denialofreligiouslibertytoconsciences,andofpoliticalindependencetostates."

[Illustration:Beziers.--ChurchofS.Nazaire.]

In1208InnocentsummonedtheKingofFrancetosweepfromsouthernFrancetheseheretics,"worsethantheSaracens,"andhepromisedtotheleadersofthecrusadethedomainstheywonoftheprinceswhofavouredtheheresy.Thewarlastedfifteenyears(from1208to1223)andofthetwoleadingspirits,oneorderingandtheotherexecuting,PopeInnocentIII.andSimondeMontfort,neithersawtheendofit.Duringthefifteenyearsofthisreligiouswar,nearlyallthetownsandstrongcastlesintheregionsbetweentheRhone,thePyrenees,theGaronneweretaken,lost,retaken,

givenovertopillage,sack,andmassacre,andburntbytheCrusaderswithallthecrueltyoffanaticsandallthegreedofconquerors.IntheaccountofthewarbyaProvencalpoet,wearetoldthatGodnevermadetheclerkwhocouldhavewrittenthemuster-rollofthecrusadingarmyintwooreventhreemonths.OneofthefirstvictimswastheyoungandgallantViscountofBeziers,who,thesameauthorassuresus,wasagoodCatholic,butwhoselandsandtownstherapacioushordelustedtoacquire.WhentheysatdownbeforeBeziers,thentheCatholicswithinthewallsmadecommoncausewiththeheretics,andrefusedtosurrender.

[Illustration:FountaininthecloisterofS.Nazaire,Beziers.]

Thenthecitywasstormed,thewallsscrambledupbyarabbleroutof

camp-followers,inshirtsandbreeches,butwithoutshoes,whoburstovertheparapetswhilsttheenvoysofthetownwerebeingamusedbymockconferenceswithMontfortandtheotherleadersofthecrusadinghost.Ageneralmassacreensued;neitheragenorsexwerespared,evenpriestsfell.ItissaidthatnewsofwhatwasbeingdonewasbroughttoArnauld,AbbotofCiteaux,oneofthecommandersofthecrusade,andhewastoldthatfaithfulandhereticswerebeingslaughteredalike."Slaythemall,"saidhe,"GodwillknowHisown."

Thestoryistoldbyacontemporary,butonlyasan_on-dit_,andmaythereforebequiteuntrue.ButSimondeMontfort,theheroofthecrusade,employedlikelanguage.Onedaytwoheretics,takenatCastres,werebroughtbeforehim,oneofwhomwasunshakableinhisbelief,theother

expressedhimselfopentoconviction."Burnthemboth,"saidthecount;"ifthisfellowmeanwhathesays,thefirewillexpiatehissins;and,ifhelie,hewillsufferforhisimposture."

AnattempthasbeenmadetoexculpatetheleadersofthecrusadefromtheatrocitiescommittedatthecaptureofBeziers,andtoclearthemofthechargeoftreachery.Itissofarcertainthatthetownwascapturedandthemassacrebegunbythecamp-followers,buttheCrusaderssoonjoinedinandaccomplishedtheworkbegunbythe"ribauds;"andnoattemptwasmadebytheleaderstostaythecarnage.InthecathedralchurchofS.Madeleine



someseventhousandwhohadtakenrefugetherewerebutcheredwithoutregardtothesanctityofthespot.Thecitywasthensetonfireandthecathedralperishedintheflames.

Afterall,itwaswellthatthecathedralshouldbepurgedwithfire,andrebuilt.Onecouldnotpray,onewouldnotliketoseetheserviceofGodrenderedinabuildingthathadbeenthusbespatteredwithblood.S.Nazaireislater.Itwasalmostwhollyrebuiltinthefourteenthcentury,andwithinitonecanforgetthehorrorsofthathatefulsiegeandbutchery.

AsItravelledontoNarbonne,thereenteredthecarriageinwhichIwastwogirlswithremarkableprofiles,andIwonderedwhethertheyborethefeaturesoftheLigurianracethatfirstpeopledallthiscoast,nowprobablyrepresentedbytheBasques--araceakintotheLap.Thesegirlshadfinedarkeyesandhair,sallowcomplexions,andtheirfullfaceswerenotunpleasant,buttheirprofileswerecertainlymostremarkable.Nowcuriouslyenough,onenteringthecathedralatNarbonne,Isawatomboftheeighteenthcenturywithmournersrepresentedonit--somesixtoeight,andtheyhadallthesametypeofface.Notonlyso,butinthemuseumofthetownisaClassicbust,foundamongtheremainsofRomanNarbona,andthesametypeisthere.

[Illustration:Typesoffaces,Narbonne.Modern.Sixteenth-centurytombin

Cathedral.Classicbustinmuseum.]

Narbonnewasonceagreatcapital.Itstoodonalagoon,anddidalargetradeintheMediterranean.ItwasaRomancolony,foundedatthesametimeasArles,andhaditsforum,capitol,baths,amphitheatre,theatre,andtemples.But,alas!thenecessityforfortifyingthecityintheMiddleAgesinducedtheinhabitantstogototheseRomanbuildingsandpullthemtopiecesinorderwiththemtoconstructthewallsandtowerssurroundingthetown,andnownotoneofallthesemonumentsremains.Thewallshaveserved,however,asarichquarryofantiquitiesthathavesuppliedthetwogreatcollectionsinthetown,oneintheHoteldeVille,theotherinaruinedchurch.ThesecollectionsareonlysecondtotheAvignonmuseum,andaboundwithobjectsofinterest.

Amongthemonumentalstonesforthedeadareseveralwithcapsfiguredonthem.ThelikearetobeseenatNimes,Avignon,andelsewhere.Thesearefreedmen'scaps.WhenanobleRomandiedheleftinhiswillthatsomanyofhisslavesweretobegiventheirliberty,andthenthiswasrepresentedbycapssculpturedonhistombstone.

[Illustration:Freedmen'scaps,Narbonne.]

Thusithappenedthatthecapcametoberegardedasthesymbolofliberty.ThemuseumcontainsaChristiansarcophagusonthestaircase,withanorante,awomanprayingwithupliftedhandsinthemidst,onthesidesthestrikingoftherockandthemultiplicationoftheloaves.Onthelidis

theportraitoftheladywhowasburiedinit,withhairdressedinthefashionwornbytheJuliasoftheHeliogabalusandAlexanderSeverusepoch,withwhosebustsonebecomessofamiliaratRome,218-223--afashionthatnevercameinagain,thatIamawareof.AnotherChristiansarcophagushasonitthemultiplicationofloaves,thedenialofPeter,andarepresentationofChristunbearded,whichistheearliestform.Another,again,representshimunbeardedholdingascroll,ontherightSt.Peterandtwootherapostlesholdingrolls,andthreeapostlesontheleft;onthelidisanorante.



InthismuseummaybeseenoneortwoexamplesofbronzeGaulishsun-wheelswithfourandeightspokes;and,whatistomeverytouching,anumberofchildren'stoysmadeinclay,foundinchildren'stombs--cocksandhens,pigsandhorses,veryrude.SimilartoysaretobefoundintheArlesandtheAvignonmuseums.IrememberinthecatacombofS.AgnesatRomeisawholecollectionoftoysfoundinaChristiangravethere,ivorydolls,arattle,bells,andanearthenwaremoney-box,justsuchasmaybeboughtforasounowinaforeignfair.DeRossi,thecuratorofthecatacombs,hashadthemallputtogetherunderglassinproximitytothelittlegravewheretheywerefound.Inachild'sgraveatS.Sebastianwasfoundalittleterra-cottahorsedappledwithyellowspots.Isupposeparentscouldnotbeartoseethetoysoftheirdarlingsaboutthehouse,andsoenclosedthemwiththeirdearonesinthelasthome.IrememberamodernFrenchgrave,nearLaRochelle;inthecentreofthehead-crosswasaglasscase,withadolldinner-serviceenclosed,thathadbeenafavouritetoywiththepoorlittlemitelyingunderthecross.Sohumanheartsarethesameascenturiesrollbyandreligionsalter.

[Illustration:Children'stoysinthemuseum,Narbonne.]

ThecathedralofNarbonneisverydelightful,afteracourseofcastellatedfortress-churchesofearlydate.Itisofthefourteenthcentury,light,lantern-like,withgloriousflyingbuttresses.

Thechurchisunfinished,ithasnonave,onlythelovelysoaringchoir,standingalone,likethatofBeauvais;andaswasthatofColognetillthelastthirtyyears.Unfortunatelythischoirissobuiltroundwithhousesthatitisonlyinoneplaceattheeastendthatitcanbeseen,andjustthere,outofdelightfulplayoffancy,thearchitecthasthrownabowacrossfromoneflyingbuttresstoanotherhighup,andthroughthisstonerainbowoneseesthepinnaclesandthesweepingarchesofthebuttressescrossingeachotherateveryangle.

Thearchiepiscopalpalacewasafortress,withtwostrongtowers.M.Viollet-le-Ducwasinvitedbythetowntotaketheminhandandconstructbetweenthemafacadeinkeepingwiththeirarchitecture,whichwastobethenceforththefacadeoftheHoteldeVille.TherewasnotamaninFrance

whohadamoreintimateknowledgeofGothicarchitecturethanhe;but,unfortunately,likeRickmaninEnglandandHeideloffinGermany,hewasincapableofapplyinghisknowledge.Theconsequenceisthathehasproducedafacadewhichisdisfiguringtothetwograndtowersbetweenwhichitisplanted.Viollet-le-DucwasdelightedwiththegrandeffectofthefaceofthepapalpalaceatAvignon,wherethebuttressesrunupunstagedandthenareunitedbyboldarchesthatsustaintheparapetandbattlements,soheattemptedthesamethingatNarbonneonasmallerscale.NowthesebuttressesorpiersatAvignonare5ft.1in.by2ft.9in.,whereasthemeasurementsofM.le-Duc'slittlepropsarereducedto1ft.2in.by1ft.6in.Relativeproportionsarechangedaswellassadlyreduced.Theresultisthattheyareludicrous.Moreover,insteadofsinkinghisfacademodestly--alittle,eighteenincheswouldhavebeen

enough--hehascarriedthefaceofhisnigglinglittlebuttressesflushwiththemassivewallsofthegreattowers.IwishedIcouldhavehadM.Viollet-le-Ductherebybothhisearsandknockedhisheadagainsttheabominationhehascreated.Hehadasplendidopportunity,andthroughincapacityhelostit.

IgotintotroubleatNarbonne.

AsIwaswalkingontheplatformofthestation,amaninplainclotheswithveryblueeyescametome,touchedhishat,andaskedifhemightbe



honouredwithafewwordsprivately.Iatoncesuspectedhewasgoingtobegorborrowmoney,andsaidIwaswillingtohearwhathewantedtosayonthespot.Hesmiled,andsaidthathethoughtperhapsitwouldbebetterthatwehadourconversationelsewhere,outsidethestation.Afteralittlehesitation,Icomplied,andwhenwewerebyourselves,"Monsieur,"saidhe,"Imustrequestyoutoshowmeyourpapersandallowmetoidentifyyou.Iaminsearchofsomeoneuncommonlylikeyourself.Iam--the_chef_ofthesecretpolicedownhere.Willyoucometomyoffice,andbringyourluggage?"

"Certainly,delightedtomakeyouracquaintance.IwillgetmyGladstonebag,andmyrollofrugsinamoment.Thereisa--ahurdy-gurdy--""Iknowthereis,"saidthe_chef_sternly."Itisthat_vielle_thatissuspicious."

Soallmyluggagewasconveyedtotheofficeofthepolice.Ishowednoconcern,butlaughedandjoked.

"Whatcountrymandoyousayyouare?"

"English."

"Impossible.YouhavenottheEnglishaccentwhenyouspeak.ItisratherGermanthananythingelse."

"YouthinkIamaGerman?"

"Butcertainly.YourbaghasaGermanaddressonit,writteninGermancharacters."Soithad.IhadbeeninGermanybeforegoingtoRome,andhadneverremovedtheaddress,which,ashesaid,wasinGermancharacters.Iexplained,butthe_chef_wasunsatisfied.IbecamenowconvincedthathethoughtIwasaspy.

"HereareGermannewspapersandaGermanbookinyourbag!"saidthe _chef_.

"Certainly.Whynot?IhavebeeninGermany."

"YetyousayyouareEnglish?"

"Hereismypassport."Iextendedonetohim.Helookedatit,shookhishead,andsaid:"Itisaveryoldoneof1867."Thatwastrue,andIhadnothadit_vised_since.

"Then,"saidthe_chef_,"thispassportisforyouandyourwife.Whereisthewife?"

"Mindingthebabies.Thirteenofthem--ahandful,"saidI.

Ihadtoproducecard-case,letters,allofwhichthe_chef_examined

carefully,andyethewasnotsatisfied.Then,suddenly,abrightideastruckme.

"Monsieur!"saidI,"Iseewhatyoutakemetobe.ItistrueIhavebeensketchinginNarbonne,andalongthewholecoast.Wouldyouliketoseemydrawings?HereistheresultofmystudiesinNarbonne:theveryremarkableprofileofaNarbonnaisegirl,thefaceofaladycarvedinthecathedral,ofanotherinthemuseum,somesketchesofchildren'sclaytoysfoundinRomantombs,andsundryGaulishandMerovingianbronzes;also!yes,see,abonetoothcombdiscoveredamongtheremainsofthefortifications."



The_chef_laughed,especiallyoverthebeautiesofNarbonne,ranhiseyethroughthebook,tookitovertohisassistanttolookatandlaughoverthewonderfulgirls'faces,returnedittome,andletmeoff.

"Andthe_vielle_,"saidI,"whatdoyouthinkofthat--"

"Mais!withthe_vielle_overyourshoulder,andthatbookofsketchesandthirteenbabies--_assurement_--youcouldonlybeanEnglishman."

CHAPTERXVIII.

CARCASSONNE.

SiegeofCarcassonnebytheCrusaders--Capture--Perfidyoflegate--DeathoftheViscount--Continuationofthewar--ChurchesofNewCarcassonne--_LaCite_--AperfectMediaevalfortifiedtown--Disappointing--Visigothfortifications--Lateradditions--TheCathedral--TombofSimondeMontfort.

TheViscountofBezierswasnotinthecityfromwhichhetookhistitlewhenitfell.HehadhurriedontoCarcassonnetopreparethatfordefence.Thereheexertedhimselfwiththeutmostenergy,withrageanddespair,tobereadyagainstthebloodthirsty,andyetblood-drunkenruffianswhowerepouringalongtheroadfromsmokingBeziers,todotoCarcassonneastheyhaddonethere.Pedro,kingofAragon,interfered;heappearedasmediatorinthecampoftheCrusaders.Carcassonnewasheldasafiefunderhimaslordparamount.Hepleadedtheyouthoftheviscount,assertedhisfidelitytotheChurch,hisabhorrenceoftheAlbigensianheresy;itwasnofaultofhis,heargued,thathissubjectshadlapsedintoerror,andhedeclaredthattheViscounthadauthorisedhimtoplacehissubmissioninthehandsofthelegateofPopeInnocent.ButtheCrusadersweresnortingforplunderandmurder.Theonlytermstheywouldadmitwerethattheyoungviscount

mightretirewithtwelveknights;thecitymustsurrenderatdiscretion.Theproudandgallantyouthdeclaredthathehadratherbeflayedalivethandeserttheleastofhissubjects.Thefirstassaults,thoughononeoccasionledbytheprelateschantingthe'VeniCreator'endedinfailure.

[Illustration:Towersonthewall,Carcassonne.]

Carcassonnemighthaveresistedsuccessfullyhaditbeenproperlyprovisioned,orhadtheviscountlimitedthenumberadmittedwithinitswalls.Butmultitudesofrefugeeshadcometherefromallthecountryround.Thewellsfailed.Diseasebrokeout.Theviscountwasobligedtocometoterms,toacceptafreeconductfromtheofficerofthelegate,andheendeavouredtomaketermsforhissubjects.

Mostofthetroopsmadetheirescapebysubterraneanpassages,andthedefencelesscitycameintothepoweroftheCrusaders.Thecitizenswerestrippedalmostnaked,andtheirhousesgivenuptopillage,buttheirliveswerespared,withtheexceptionofsomefiftywhowerehangedandfourhundredwhowereburnedalive.Theviscounthadgivenhimselfuponpromiseofsafeconduct;butnopromises,nooathswereheldsacredinthesewarsofreligion,andtheperfidiouslegateseizedhim,casthimintoadungeon,andtherehediedafewmonthslaterofabrokenspiritandthepestilentialprisonair.



Thelawofconquestwasnowtobeputinforce.ThelandsofthehereticthePopewasreadytobestowonsuchashaddutifullydonehisbehest.Thelegateassembledtheprincipalcrusadingnobles,thattheymightchooseamongthemonetoactaslordovertheirconquests.Theofferwasmade,successively,totheDukeofBurgundy,theCountofNevers,andtheCountofS.Pol;buttheyallthreedeclined,sayingscornfullythattheyhadlandsenoughoftheirownwithouttakingthoseofanother.Theywere,perhaps,fearfuloftheperilousexampleofsettingupthefiefsofFrancetothehazardofthesword.SimondeMontfortwaslessscrupulous,ormoreambitious,andhetookimmediatepossessionofthelandsthathadbeenacquired.ThePopewrotetohimandconfirmedhiminthehereditarypossessionofhisnewdominions,atthesametimeexpressingtohimahopethat,inconcertwiththelegates,hewouldcontinueveryzealousintheextirpationoftheheretics.

FromthistimeforththewarinsouthernFrancechangedcharacter,or,rather,itassumedadoublecharacter;withthewarofreligionwasopenlyjoinedawarofconquest;itwasnolongermerelyagainsttheAlbigensesandtheirheresies,itwasagainstthenativeprincesofthesouthofFrance,forthesakeoftheirdominions,thatthecrusadewasprosecuted.

IfitcamewithinmyscopetospeakaboutToulouse,Ishouldbeconstrainedtotellmoreofthissanguinarystory.IamthankfulthatIneednot

prosecutethehatefultale;butsomuchitwasnotpossibleformetowithholdfromthereader,asitiswiththesememoriesthatCarcassonneandBeziersmustbevisitedandlookedat.

Carcassonneisadoublecity,acityonahillandanotherontheplain,eachancient,butthatbelowwiththemodernelementleaveningit,thatabovewhollysteepedinmediaevalism.

[Illustration:AnentrancetoCarcassonne.]

Inthelowertownaretwofinechurches,verypeculiarindesign,formingvasthallswithoutpillars,andwithsmallchancelsandapses.Therecanbenoquestionthattheylookuncomfortablewithoutpillars,thatthechoir

doesnotgrowoutofthechurchnaturally,andisdevoidofdignity.ThesetwochurchesareS.VincentandS.Michael.Thelatterisofthethirteenthcentury,andseemstohaveformedthepatternuponwhichtheotherwasbuiltinthefourteenthandsixteenthcenturies.Thereisnowestportal,butithasafinerosewindow.Thechurchisenteredbyasmalldooronthenorth.Theotherandlaterchurch,S.Vincent,hasaveryfinetower,whichhas,unfortunately,notbeencompleted.Italsohasnowestdoor,andisenteredbyasmallportalattheside.ThesechurcheshavetheirlateralchapelsarrangedlikethoseinthecathedralatMunichbetweenthebuttresses,andthechurchislightedbywindowsabovethem.Suchbuildingsmakeadmirablepreaching-halls,butaschurchesarenotpleasinginternally.

TotheeastofNewCarcassonneflowstheriverAudecrossedbyabridge,withaquaintlittlechapelrecentlyrestoredbesideit.FromthisbridgeaviewofOldCarcassonne,_LaCite_,asitiscalled,burstsonthesight.Itstandsonaheightabout125ft.abovetheriver,andthisheighthastwopeaks,oneisoccupiedbythecitadel,theotherbytheoldcathedralofS.Nazaire.

Thewholeofthis_Cite_issurroundedbyitswallsandtowers,quiteasperfectaswhenoriginallybuilt,fortheyhavebeenverycarefullyrestoredbyM.Viollet-le-Duc.ConsequentlywehavebeforeusaFrench



fortifiedtownoftheMiddleAgescomedowntousunaltered.Thatitispicturesqueisunquestionable,thatitis_eminently_picturesquecannotbeallowed.Thebuildershadnoconcernformakingabeautifulpicture,theythoughtonlyofmakinganimpregnableplace.ItispreciselythisthatdifferentiatesitfromascoreofGermanfortifiedtowns.Theburghersoftheselatterwereresolvedtomaketheirtownsmiraclesofbeautyaswellasstrongplaces.Consequentlytheyvariedtheshapesoftheirtowers,theycappedthemquaintly,hardlymakingtwoalike.Here,atCarcassonne,everytower,ornearlyeverytower,resemblesitsfellow,andallhavesugar-loafcapsthatirritatetheeyewithiterationofthesameform.Thecitadelhasnocharacterofmassiveness,nogranddonjontodistinguishitfromtherestofthefortifications,andthecathedralhasonlytwomeanlittledonkey'searsoftowersthataremostineffective,peepingoverthewallsofthesouth-westernangleofthetown.Inlookingoutforastudyforapictureonehastogetwheresomeofthesugar-loaftowersareeclipsed,andthereisonlyonepointinthewholecircumferencewhereareallysatisfactorygroupingisobtainable,andthatisattheangleoutsideimmediatelybelowthecathedralplatformtothewest,wheretheonerespectableturretofthecastlestandsupboldlyfromtherock,andtheflankingturretsoverlapandhideeachother.

[Illustration:AbitofCarcassonne.]

Interesting,mostinterestingisOldCarcassonne,andpicturesqueinits

fashion;theregretonefeelsisthat,withitsopportunities,itisnotmoreso.IdonotthinkthatM.Viollet-le-Duc'srestorationisinfault,butthattheoriginalarchitectshadnoideaofanythingbetter,weremenofmediocreabilities,orcaredonlytomakethedefencesstrongatallcosts,andtosacrificeeverythingelsetothisoneconsideration.

ButthesamefaultisinherentinallFrenchcastle-buildingandcity-fortificationoftheMiddleAges.Itispicturesquewheninruins.Ontheotherhand,theGermancastlesandfortifiedtownslooktheirverybestwheninperfectrepair.LetthereadertakeupAlbertDuerer'sdelightfullittleengravingoftheHermit,andcomparethebackgroundofaGermanwalledtownandcastleonaheightwith_LaCite_,Carcassonne,andhewillseehowvastisthedifferenceinqualityofpicturesquenessbetweenthe

two.

The_Cite_isactuallyenclosedwithindoubleramparts,andaportionofthesedatesfromthetimeoftheVisigoths.Theirwallswerecomposedofcubicblocksofstone,withalternatelayersofbrick,weredouble-faced,andfilledinwithrubblebeddedinlime,formingasortofconcretecore.Thetowerswereroundoutsidewithflatfacetothetown,andlargeround-headedwindowswhichwereclosedwithboards.Theseinlatertimeswerebuiltup.Theinteriorwallsandtowersaretheearliest,andwerethosebesiegedbytheCrusaders.Itwasinoneofthetowersofthecastlethattheunhappyyoungviscountdied.TheouterfortificationswereerectedbyLouisIX.andhisson,PhiliptheBold.TheVisigothwallsweredefendedbythirty-twotowers,ofwhichonlyonewassquare.LouisIX.constructeda

greatbarbicanbelowthecastle,commandingthebridgeovertheAude,butthatwasdestroyedsomeyearsago.

[Illustration:Insidethewall,Carcassonne.]

The_Cite_underwentasecondsiegein1240,whilstLouisIX.wasonhiscrusade,andQueenBlanchewasregent.VerycuriouslettersexistfromGuillaumedesOrmes,theseneschaltotheregent,describingthesiegeofCarcassonnebythetroopsoftheviscount;butforthese,andforadetailedaccountofthefortifications,ImustreferthereadertoM.



Viollet-le-Duc'saccount,inhistreatiseontheMilitaryArchitectureoftheMiddleAges.

[Illustration:EntrancetotheCastle,Carcassonne.]

TheoldtownofCarcassonne,crowdedwithinthewalls,hasverynarrowstreetsandtinysquares;theonlyopenspacebeingbeforethecitadelandthecathedral.ThislatterhasafineRomanesquenavethatwasconsecratedbyPopeUrbanII.in1096,withitswestenddesignedfordefence,afterthecustomarymannerinthesouth.Itissupportedbymassivepiers,alternatelyroundandsquare.Tothisplainnaveisaddedalightandlovelychoirwithtransepts,ofthebeginningofthefourteenthcentury.Herethegloriouswindowsarefilledwithricholdstainedglass--barbarouslyrestored.Andhere,ononesideofthehighaltarmaybeseenaslabofredmarble--rightlyblood-red--markingthetomboftheinfamousSimondeMontfort,EarlofLeicester,thecruelandremorselessrighthandofthePope,withwhichthisfairregionwasdelugedwithblood.HewaskilledonJune20th,1218,byastoneflungfromthewallsofToulouse,whichhehadbeenunsuccessfullybesiegingforninemonths.Fromthesouthsideoftheold_Cite_adelightfulviewisobtainedofthePyrenees,snow-cladwhenIwasthereinApril;butthemountainformsofthechainasitapproachestheMediterraneanloseboldnessandpicturesquenessofoutline,astheyalsodwindleinaltitude.

CHAPTERXIX.

AVIGNON.

HowAvignonpassedtothePopes--ThecourtofClementVI.--JohnXXII.--BenedictXII.--Theirtombs--PetrarchandLaura--ThePalaceofthePopes--TheSalleBrulee--Cathedral--Porch--S.Agricole--ChurchofS.Pierre--Themuseum--ViewfromtheRocherdesdoms--TheRhone--Thebridge--StoryofS.Benezet--Dancingonbridges--Villeneuve--Tombof

InnocentVI.--TheCastleatVilleneuve--Defences--Tete-du-pontofthebridge.

WeleaveLanguedocandareagaininProvence,orwhatwasProvence,tillthePopesbyafraudobtainedit.AvignonbelongedtoProvence,whichwasclaimedbyCharlesofAnjouinrightofhiswife,andithaddescendedtohisson,CharlesII.ofNaples.OnthedeathofthelatteritfelltoRobertofNaples,andfromhimtohisgrand-daughter,Joanna,theheiressoftheDukeofCalabria.

ThePapalresidencewasnowatAvignon,andthereitremainedforacenturyandaquarter.Joannafellintotrouble,herkingdomofNapleswasinvaded

byLouis,KingofHungary,whoassertedhisrighttoherthrone.ShefledtoProvence--toAvignon--whereatoncePopeClementVI.seizedtheoccasiontopurchasethisportionofherProvencalinheritanceofheratthepriceofeightythousandgoldcrowns.Hekepttheprincipality,butneverpaidthemoney.

ThePopeshavelefttheirindeliblemarkontheplaceinthegloriouspalace,avastcastle,oftheboldeststructure,wonderfulinitssizeandmassiveness.



ThePapalcourtatAvignon,underClementVI.,"became",saysDr.Milman,"themostsplendid,perhapsthegayest,inChristendom.TheProvencalsmightalmostthinktheirbrilliantandchivalrouscountsrestoredtopowerandenjoyment.ThePapalpalacespreadoutinextentandmagnificence;thePopewasmorethanroyalinthenumberandattireofhisretainers;thepapalstudofhorsescommandedgeneraladmiration.ThelifeofClementwasaconstantsuccessionofecclesiasticalpompsandgorgeousreceptionsandluxuriousbanquets.LadieswerefreelyadmittedtotheCourt,andthePopemingledwitheaseinthegallantintercourse.TheCountessofTurenne,ifnot,asgeneralreportaverred,actuallyso,hadatleastmanyoftheadvantagesofthePope'smistresses--thedistributionofprefermentsandbeneficestoanyextent,whichthiswoman,asrapaciousasshewashandsomeandimperious,soldwithshamelesspublicity."

UnderthePapalrule,withsuchanexamplebeforeit,AvignonbecamethemoralsinkofChristendom.Toseewhatitsconditionwas,andhowflagrantwastheviceinallquarters,thelettersofPetrarchmustberead.HespeaksofthecorruptionofAvignonwithloathingabhorrence;Romeitself,incomparison,wastheseatofmatronlyvirtue.

ButImuststepbackforamomenttoJohnXXII.becauseofthelovelymonumenttohiminthecathedral,andbecausethereonwehavehisauthenticportrait.

ThisPopewasacobbler'ssonofCahors;hewasasmall,deformed,butcleverman:thesecondcobbler'ssonwhosatontheseatofS.Peter.Hehadgone,whenayouth,toNaples,wherehisunclewassettledinalittleshop.Therehestudied,histalentsandluckpushedhimintonotice,andhebecamebishopofFrejus.ButhepreferredtoliveonthesunnyshoresofNaples,andtokeepwithinthecircleoftheking,wherelaychancesofhigherpreferment,andhetroubledhisdioceselittlewithhispresence.Hebecameacardinal,andin1316waselectedPopeattheconclaveofLyons.HeatoncedroppeddowntheRhone,andfixedtheseatofhispontificateatAvignon.Able,learnedthoughhewas,hewasnotabovethesuperstitionsofhisage.HehadbeengivenaserpentineringbytheCountessofFoix,andhadlostit.Hebelievedthatithadbeenstolenfromhimwherewithtoworksomemagicspellagainsthishealth.ThePopepledgedallhisgoods,

movableandimmovable,forthesaferestorationofhisring:hepronouncedanathemaagainstallsuchaswereinvolvedintheretentionofit.ItwasrumouredthatoneofthoseinvolvedintheplotbywitchcrafttocausehisdeaththroughthisserpentineringwasGerold,bishopofhisownnativecity,Cahors.ThealarmedandangrysovereignPontiffhadtheunhappybishopdegraded,_flayedalive_,andtorntopiecesbywildhorses.

[Illustration:PapalThroneintheCathedralofAvignon.]

JohnXXII.issuedanedictofterriblecondemnationagainstallsuchasdealtinmagicalarts,whobottledupspirits,madewaxenimagesandstuckpinsintothem,andthelike.Hediedattheageofninety,havingamassedenormouswealthbydrawingintohisownpowerallthecollegiatebenefices

throughoutChristendom,andbymeansofreservations,aningeniousmodeofgettinglargepickingsoutofeverybishopricbeforetheinstitutionofanewbishop.ThebrotherofVillanithehistorian,abanker,tooktheinventoryofhisgoodswhenhewasdead.Itamountedtoeighteenmillionsofgoldflorinsinspecie,andsevenmillionsinplateandjewels.Hisface,onhismonument,isindicativeofhisharsh,grasping,andcoldcharacter.

Nowlookatthisotherface,itisthatofthesuccessorofJohn,ofJamesFournier,whotookthenameofBenedictXII.Heliesinthenorthaisleof



thecathedral.

[Illustration:JohnXXII.]

OnthedeathofJohnXII.twenty-fourcardinalsmet,mostlyFrenchmen,andtheirvotesinclinedtoabrotherofthecountofComminges,buttheyendeavouredtowringfromhimanoathtocontinuetomakeAvignontheseatofthePapacy.Herefused;andthen,tohisownsurprise,thesuffragesfellontheCistercianabbot,JamesFournier.

"Youhavechosenanass!"hesaid,inhumilityorinirony.

[Illustration:BenedictXII.]

Buthedidhimselfaninjustice:hewasamanofshrewdnessandsagacity,helackedonlycourageandstrengthtohavemadeagreatPope.Hiswholereignwasatacitreproachagainsttheturbulence,implacabilityandavariceofhispredecessor.ThecourtofAvignonwascrowdedwithfawningcourtierbishopsseekingpromotion:hesentthemflyingbacktotheirsees.HediscouragedthePapalreserves,theiniquitoussystemwherebyPopeJohnhadamassedhiswealth;hethrewopenthetreasuryofhispredecessor,anddistributedsomeofthecoinamongthecardinals,theresthespentintheerectionofthehugecastle-palacethatisnowthewonderofallwhovisitAvignon,andtheconstructionofwhichmadethemoneycirculateamongthe

poorandindustriousartificers.

WhenBenedictdied,afterabriefreignofeightyears,hisreputationwasdisputedoverwithsingularpertinacitybyfriendsandfoes.

[Illustration:AnangleofthePapalPalace,Avignon.]

"Hewasamanwiserinspeechthaninaction,betrayingbyhiskeenwordsthathesawwhatwasjustandright,butdarednotfollowit.Yetpoliticalcouragealonewaswanting.HewasresolutelysuperiortothePapalviceofnepotism.Ononeonlyofhisfamily,andthatadeservingman,hebestowedarichbenefice.Totheresthesaid,'AsJamesFournierIknewyouwell,asPopeIknowyounot.IwillnotputmyselfinthepoweroftheKingof

Francebyencumberingmyselfwithahostofneedyrelatives.'Hehadthemoralfortitudetoincurunpopularitywiththeclergybypersistinginhisslow,cautious,andregulardistributionofbenefices;withthemonksbyhisrigidreforms.Hehatedthemonks,andeventheMendicantOrders.Heshowedhishatred,astheysaid,bythefewpromotionswhichhebestoweduponthem."[1]

[Footnote1:Milman:'LatinChristianity.']

Thebitterhatredbegotteninreturnwasdisplayedintheepitaphsetupoverhim,describinghimasaNero,asdeathtothelaity,avipertotheclergy,aliarandadrunkard.[1]Butmalignityofdisappointedambitionandrepressedvicedidnotgosofarastocaricaturehisface.Thegraver

hadtocopytheepitaphgivenhim,butthesculptorreproducedthefaceofthemanhimself,andthatface,sweet,gentle,andpure,tellsitsowntale.ItisquiteanotherfacefromthatofJohnXXII.JohnhasamagnificentshrineofincomparableGothicpinnacle-work;butBenedictislaidinaveryhumbletomb,yetoveritisthebestofmonuments,hisowngoodface.Ofthis"Nero"thereisnotrecordedonesingleactofcruelty;andhewasguiltlessofhumanbloodshedinwar.

[Footnote1:"IllefuitNero,laicismors,viperaclero,Deviusavero,cupparepletamero."]



Here,atAvignon,andwritingoftheveryepochinwhichhelived,itisnotpossibletowithholdthepenfromsomelinesrelativetoPetrarch,andIfeelthemoredisposedtowriteabouthim,forIthinkthatthewordsusedrelativetohimandLaurainMurray'sHandbookarenotquitejust.SpeakingofVaucluse,theauthorsays:"ItismoreagreeabletocontemplatePetrarchinthesehaunts,asthelaboriousstudentretiredfromtheworld,thanasthemawkishloversighingforamarriedmistress."

Petrarchwasanexile,livingatAvignoninexile,whenhesawhisLaurainachurchthere,andlosthisheart.Hewasthenagedtwenty-one,andshewastwelveorthirteen;shebelongedtotheillustriousfamilyofSade.NowitsohappensthatthechiefauthorityforthehistoryofPetrarchistheAbbedeSade,whosettoworkwithadeterminationtoshowthathisfamilywerelinealdescendantsofPetrarch'sLaura,andheingenuouslyleftoutsuchparticularsasmilitatedagainsthisdoctrine.ThegreatfamilyofSade,whohadtheircastlebetweenAvignonandVaucluse,hadnotthesmallestintentionofsufferingadaughterofthehousetobecomealliedtoanexileofnogreatbirthandprospects;accordinglyeveryimpedimentwasputinthewayofameeting.Petrarch'sloveforherwaswellknown,indeedhisimprudencewasgreat,heallowedhispoemsinherhonourtopassfromhandtohand.Itwasimpossibleforherrelativestosufferthistocontinue.ShewasplacedwithherauntStephanettedeRomanie;anddiedunmarried.HerfatherwasHugodeSade,andhermotherLauradeNeves;and

theAbbedeSade,andallwhofollowhim,supposethatPetrarchwasinlovewiththemother,whereasthereisabundantevidencethattheobjectofhispassionwasthedaughter.[1]

[Footnote1:Thewholematterhasbeenthoroughlydiscussed,andIthinkthestoryofhisloveforthewifeofHugodeSaderefutedbyBruce-Whyte('Hist.desLanguesRomanes,'t.iii.c.38)].

WhetherPetrarch'sloveforLaurawasaspureasherepresentsitinsomeofhissonnets--whethertheunhappyLauradidnotsufferfromhispursuitinhonourasshecertainlylostinrepute,isuncertain.Petrarchinsomeofhispoemsexaltshispassionforherintothemostpureplatonicaffection,butotherversesaddressedtoherhaveaverydifferent

complexion.

[Illustration:TheCathedralandthePalaceofthePopes,Avignon.]

Thevastfortress-palaceofthePopesatAvignonhasstoodasiege.ItwasatthetimeoftheGreatSchism,whenthreegrey-headedclaimantstoberepresentativesofS.PeterandVicegerentsofChristwerethunderinganathemasagainsteachotherandthesupportersoftheirrivals.BenedictXIII.wasthenPopeinAvignon,buttherewasageneraldesireinChristendomthatthescandalshouldbeterminated.AllhiscardinalsexcepttwodesertedBenedict,andtheKingofFrancerequiredhisrenunciationofthetiara."PopeIhavewrittenmyself;PopeIhavebeenacknowledgedtobe;PopeIwillremaintotheendofmydays,"washisanswer.Thenhewas

besiegedinhispalaceandforcedtocapitulate,andthrownintoprison,wherehelingeredunderthejealouswardofthecardinalsforfiveyears.

[Illustration:LanternattheCathedral,Avignon.]

Thepalacehasbeenrestored,andisnowabarrack.Initisshownahall,theprincipaldininghall,callednowlaSalleBrulee,asin1441thePapalLegatebroughttogetherintoittheburghersandnoblesofAvignon,andintheheightofrevelrywithdrewhimself,andhadfireappliedtobarrelsofgunpowderunderit,andblewtheguestsintotheair.Thiswasdonein



revengeforthemurderofhisnephew,ayounglibertinewhohaddishonouredamaidenofgoodfamilyinthetown.

[Illustration:AngelatW.Door,ChurchofS.Agricole]

Adjoiningthepalace,onhigherground,theRocherdesdoms,isthecathedralofNotreDame,smallandearly.Withbarbaroustaste,thefineRomanesquewesttowerhasbeenfinishedoffwithanoctagonalstructuresupportingasapexagiganticfigureoftheVirgin,leaningagainstalightningconductorthatisscrewedintoherheadandback,andlooksmuchliketheapparatusofaphotographertosteadyherforasuccessful _carte_.Tothecathedralascentismadebyflightsofstonesteps,anditisenteredbyaporchthatismadeupofCorinthianpillarstakenfromaClassictemple.SomehavethoughtthewholeporchtobeofRomanarchitecture,butitisnotso.ForsometimeProvencalarchitecturewasmuchinfluencedbytheremainsthatcoveredthesoil,andfromwhichthebuildersofchurchesnotmerelydrewtheirideasbutalsoappropriatedmaterials.

Thedomeofthecathedralisnoticeablewithinfromtheboldandeffectivemannerinwhichitissustainedonfoursuccessiverecedingarches.Thereisafinenorthaisle,thevaultingofwhichstartsasthoughitwereabouttospreadintothefan-traceryofEnglishPerpendicular.ItiscuriousasshowingFrencharchitectsontheeveofreachingthesamemarvellous

developmentattainedinEngland.

ThereisafinechurchatAvignon,S.Agricole,ofnobleproportions,thevaultingandarcadesspringingfromthepillarswithoutcapitals.Inthesouthaisleisacuriousfourteenth-centuryshrine.Thewestfrontofthechurchisofverypoordesign.

[Illustration:ABitoftheOldWall,Avignon.]

S.Pierreisaflamboyantchurch,thedetailspassingintoRenaissance.InthenorthaisleisasuperbRenaissancealtar-piece,representingChristbetweenS.PeterandS.Paul.UnderneathistheLastSupper.Itwastoofineandgoodtobeappreciated,andamodernvulgaraltarandaltar-piece

havebeenerectedatthesideforuse.Thechoir-stallsarereallywonderful.TheyarealsoofRenaissancewoodwork,withpaintedpanelsinthebackrepresentingarchitecturalscenesalternatingwithvasesofflowers.TheyareseparatedbyCorinthiancolumnsgilt,andverysumptuous,yetthewholeeffectissubduedandpleasing,notgaudy.Inthischurchalsothearchesspringfromthepillarswithoutcapitals.Altogetherthischurchdeservescarefulstudy.

ThemuseumofAvignonistherichestinantiquitiesinthesouthofFrance.UnfortunatelythesubstanceofthecollectionwasgatheredbyaM.Calvertwhomadenonoteasto_where_hegotthevariousarticleshecollected,andthisnaturallydeprivesmuchthatisthereofitsvalue.However,thereisagreatdealtheretobeseen;notablyabronzecavalrystandard,Roman,

inadmirablepreservation;astampinbronzewiththeletters

AIVN

andtheseven-branched-candlestickbetween,clearlyaJewishstamp.AmagnificentgoldnecklaceandgoldbraceletswithalargemedallionofaRomanEmpressingoldinthemidst.TheheadissaidtobethatofOrbiana,thirdwifeofSeverusAlexander,unknowntohistory,andknownonlybyhercoins.



AmongthestatuespreservedthereistheVenusVictrixfoundatPourrieres,andaveryrudebutinterestingGaulishwarrior,discoveredatMontdragonin1834,cutinsandstone.Heisleaningonahugeshield.ThereareseveralbustsofRomanemperors,agoodone,butwithnosebroken,oftheElderDrusus,LuciusVerus,Tiberius,Trajan,aPlautilla--andsomethataredoubtful.

Ofthepaintingsinthe_Muse_Icannotsaymuch,asIlookedattwoonly--twoperfectlydeliciousBrueghels,aFlemishFair,and,Ithink,awedding.Iwontheheartofthe_concierge_bystudyingthem.Hefoundmecareeringaboutthegallery,likeanowlinsunlight,lookingforBrueghel,andwhenhefoundwhatIwasafter,ledmebacktothem,oneoneachsideoftheentrancedoor."WhydoyouwanttoseeBrueghel?"heasked."Why?becauseIlovehisoddities.""AreyouaBelge?""No.""ButyouseemtoknowtheFlemishartists.IambyancestryaBelge.MygrandfathercamefromBrussels."Sowetalkedoverdear,delightfulBelgiumforhalf-an-hour,andIhadthemosteager,amiableguidetoallthatwasofinterestinthemuseum,afterthat.Anditisacollection!ThemediaevalandRenaissancesculpturesalonedeserveavisit.

OnecanhardlybeartothinkoftheamountofgoodworkthathasperishedinAvignon.ThecitypossessedbeforetheRevolutionsixtychurches,andoftheseonlyeighteenremain;ofbetweentwoandthreehundredtowers

andspires,notone-tenthareleftstanding.Thereis,however,averyfinetowerandeastendinS.Didier,achurchofthefourteenthcentury,anotherintheHoteldeVillebuiltroundwithatastelessClassicstructurethatobscuresitfromview.TheMuseeRequienisinanoldconvent,thechapelofwhichisgivenuptotheProtestants;ithasarichflamboyantwindowtothenorth,unfortunatelyblocked.

[Illustration:PartofChurchofS.Didier,Avignon.]

AquaintandpicturesquetowerstandsbyitselfintheRueCarreterie;itismachicolatedandhasadelicatelittlespire.ItisallthatremainsofthechurchoftheAugustinians.Nearlyoppositeisarichflamboyantportal.

[Illustration:BridgeandChapelofS.Benezet.]

Avignoniscompletelysurroundedbyitsoldwallsandtowers.Muchofthespaceinsideisnowoccupiedbygardensandvineyards;apparentlyinthetimewhenAvignonwastheseatofthePapacy,itwasfarmorepopulousthanatpresent.IshouldliketheclergyofRometoseeAvignonwithitsfifty-twodesecratedchurchesanditsthirty-fiveabandonedconvents,andcompareitwithRomewherenearlyeverythingisleftthem;thenperhapstheywouldbeinclinedtosalutetheirkingandqueen.

WhatalovelyviewthatisfromthegardensontheRocherdesDomes!TotheeastrisesMontVentoux,aspuroftheAlpsthrownoutintotheplain,and

inAprilveiledinsnow.TothewestthechainoftheCevennes,andtheplaingleamingwithwaterfromthemanywindingsoftheRhone,andfromitsbranches,asitsplitsandcircumventsislandsclothedwithwillowandpoplar.

AboveAvignonisaverylargeisland,andbelowittheDuranceenterstheRhonethroughalaceworkofrubble-bedswithscantygrowthsuponthem,thewaterflickeringinathousandsilverthreadsbetween.Then,immediatelyundertheRocherdesDomesisthemightyriversweepingonwithstrongpurpose,andhalf-bridgedbyaquaintoldstructure,builtbetween1177



and1185underthedirectionofS.Benezet.Onthesecondpileisalittlechapel,erectedinhonourofthefounder,inwhichMassisstillsaidonhisday,April14th.S.Benezetwasashepherd,hewasbaptisedbythenameofBenedict,but,beingaverylittleman,hereceivedthediminutivethathasadheredtohim.HeheardoftheaccidentsthathappenedtothosewhocrossedtherapidRhoneinboats,andheconsideredinhismindthatitwerewelliftheprelatesandburghersofAvignonwoulddevotetheirwealthtomakingagoodbridge,insteadofsquanderingitinshowandriotousliving.Sohecameintothecity,andadjuredthePopeandthebishopoftheseetoconstructabridge.Thehaughtyecclesiasticsscoffedathim,and,ashewouldnotdesistfromhisurgency,senthimtothecitygovernortobechastised.Unshakenbythistreatment,theshepherdpersisted.Hewentamongthecitizens,hesoughtouttheclergy,hecollectedknotsofmentolistentohiminthemarket-place,preachingtheadvantageofabridge.Itwashisoneidea.Hewasignorant,perhapsfoolish,inothermatters,buthewaspossessedwiththebeliefthatGodhadsenthimtoinducetheAvignonesetobuildabridge.Afterawhile,nothingwastalkedofintheplacebutthegreatquestionofthissamebridge.Itsadvantagewasapparenttoall.Finallyitwasdecidedbyacclamationthattheymusthaveabridge,andwhenitwasbuilt,andtheshepherddied,"Really,"saidthegoodpeopleofAvignon,"hemusthavebeenasainttohaverousedusoutofourapathy."

[Illustration:AtVilleneuve.]

Thepoorshepherd'sbodywasnotrespectedbytherevolutionists,thoughhewasasans-culotte,buthewasasans-culottewhowasaconstructorandnotadestroyer,therefore--tothedogswithhim.

Therewasasaying--

"AvenioventosaCumventofastidiosa,Sineventovenenosa."

ThatmayberenderedinFrench--

"AvignonventeuseAvecventennuyeuse,Sansventpernicieuse."

WindyitwaswhenIwasthere,andwhenIwentoutonthebroken-downbridgeofS.BenezetIwasnearlyblownoffit.ThisbridgeinFrenchnurseryrhymetakesmuchthesameplaceasdoesLondonBridgeinEnglishchildren'sjingles.Wehave:--

"LondonBridgeisbrokendown,DanceovermyLadyLee."

AndtheFrenchhave:--

"SurlePontd'Avignontoutlemondedanse,danse;SurlePontd'Avignontoutlemondedanseenrond."

WhydancingshouldbeassociatedwithbridgesIcannottellforcertain,butthereisprobablysomemythologicorigin.ItwascustomaryinPagantimestosacrificeahumanbeingwhenthefoundationsofabridgewerelaid,byburyingthevictimaliveunderit,andeveryyearanofferingofalifewasmadetotherivertopropitiateit,andensurethestabilityofthebridge.Ournurserygamesofchildrendancinginaround,andonebeing



takenbythecastingofakerchief,isarelicofanoldheathen_sors_,bywhichavictimforimmolationwasselected;anditisveryprobablethatthedancingonbridgeshadsomethingtodowiththis.Oneoutofthechainthatdancedoverthebridge,ortheringthatwheeledonitwaschosen,andcastovertheparapetasanofferingtotheriver.

[Illustration:CastleofS.Andre,atVilleneuve.]

ThissuperstitionlingeredonthroughtheMiddleAges,inspiteofChristianity.WesayinDevon:--

"TheRiverDartEveryyeardemandsaheart."

AncientlytheDartwas_given_hisvictim;now,however,he_takes_it.

ThebridgeofS.Benezetisbrokendownandabandoned,butasuspensionbridgeunitesAvignonwiththefartherbankoftheRhone,andthismustbecrossedtoreachVilleneuve,whichstoodtoAvignonasBeaucairetoTarascon.VilleneuvewasFrench,andAvignonPapaldowntotheRevolution,whenin1791itwasannexedtoFrance.AtVilleneuvethearmywasassembledthatbesiegedPopeBenedictXIII.inhispalace.

Villeneuveisfullofpicturesquepoints.Itwasoriginallywellfortified,

andwasafrontierfortressofLanguedoc.TheoldHopitalcontainsthetombofPopeInnocentVI.,whichmaybecomparedwiththatofJohnXXII.inthecathedral.InnocentwasanativeofLimoges.Therewasastrangestruggleathiselection.

OnthedeathofClementVI.aconclaveofcardinalsassembledtoconsideraboutchoosingJohnBorelli,Carthusiansuperior,but,whenCardinalTalleyrandwarnedthemthatamanofsuchsternsimplicitywouldinaveryfewdaysordertheirstatelycaparisonedhorsestobeturnedtotoilattheplough,theywerealarmed,andlookedelsewhere.ButfirstofalltheypassedalawbyunanimousvotethattheCollegeofCardinalsshouldbecomeadominant,self-electiveassembly,superiortothePope,andthatone-halfoftherevenuesofthePapacyshouldbedivertedintothepocketsofthe

cardinals.Thentheyproceededtoelect,andchoseStephenAubert,adistinguishedcanonlawyer,whoassumedthetitleofInnocentVI.,andhisfirstactwastoemancipatehimselffromtheoathhehadtaken,torescindanddeclarenullthisstatuteoftheConclave.Hewasaseveredisciplinarian.Hedroveawayagreatportionoftheswarmofbishopsandbeneficedclergy,whopassedtheirtimeinAvignoninluxuryandindolence,onthelook-outforrichemoluments.Onestoryistoldofhisconductwithregardtopreferments.Afavouritechaplainpresentedhisnephew,aboy,andaskedforhimarichbenefice.

"Youarealreadytheholderofseven,"saidthePope,"givehimoneofthose."Thechaplainlookeddiscouraged.ThePopecompelledhimtochoosethreeofthebest."Thesemustsufficetheeandtheboy,"saidInnocent,"I

willgivetheotherstopooranddeservingclerks."

ItwasunderCardinalAlbornoz,themartiallegateofthisPope,thatRienziwassubdued,andRomerecoveredtothePapalchair.

[Illustration:AtVilleneuve.]

ThecastleofVilleneuvewasbuiltbyPhiliptheBoldinthethirteenthcentury,andisinterestinginmanyways.Itcontainsalittlechapelofanearlierdatewithasmallapseandlittleround-headedwindows.Thewhole



ofthebodyisunderaverylow-pitchedroofsupportedonanalmostClassiccornice.ThefortificationsofthecastleareanexampleofastageofdefencecarriedbeyondwhatwasattainedatAiguesMortes.There,aswesaw,theupperportionofthewallswascoveredwithabalconyofwoodontowhichthebesiegedsteppedthroughthedoorwaysleftinthebattlements.

[Illustration:AwellatVilleneuve.]

When,insieges,thecatapultsweremadetoflingbarrelsofflamingtaroverthesebalconies,andsetthemonfire,recoursewashadtostructuresofstone,andthewooden_hourdes_,orbalconies,disappeared.Thencamethemachicolatedgalleries.Buteventheseweredeemedinsufficient,and _echauguettes_wereerected,sentry-boxesbetweenthetowersstandingforwardbeyondthecurtains,andwithdoubleslitsinthefloor,throughwhichtwostreamsofflamingcombustibleorofstonescouldbesentdownonthebesiegers.ThepalaceofthePopesatAvignonexhibitstheseonpiersstandingforthfromthewall.TheyarealsotobeseenatVilleneuve.

ThefineGothicchurchoftheChartreuseisruinous;inthatstoodthetombofInnocentVI.Agrandtower,erectedbyPhiliptheFair,formedtheTeteduPontofthebridgeofS.Benezet.Itwaserectedafterthebridgehadbeenconstructed,asaprotectionagainstthetroopsofthePapacy.Thereuponthepopesraisedatowerofdefenceattheirendofthebridge.Therewereoriginallyseventeenarchesinthebridge,restingoneighteen

piers.

CHAPTERXX.

VALENCE.

Adulltown--Cathedral--JacquesCujas--Hisdaughter--PiusVI.--Hisdeath--MaisondesTetes--LePendentif--ThecastleofCrussol--ThedukesofUzes--Adramaticcompanyofthethirteenthcentury.

WhatasleepyplaceValenceis!TherewassupposedtobeafairtherewhenIwasatValence,buteventhatcouldnotwakeitup.Butthefairwasinaconditionoftheutmostsomnolenceitself.Why--IdidnotsuspecttillIreachedVienne,whenIfoundthatthislatterplacehaddrawntoitallthatwasenterprising,startling,attractive,andleftonlytheverydregsoffairingstopoorValence.

Ithasagreatboulevard,verywide,veryinviting,butthespottedboys,andfatgirls,andbeardedwomen,wouldhavenothingtosaytoit--theyherdedtoVienne.Ithasavastterrace,plantedwithtrees,whereanyamountofstallsmightstand,buttherewereerectedthereonlysomevery

inconsiderablerangesofbootandshoetables,andofoldcutlery,andslopclothes.

Thecathedralisinterestingandfine.Theapseattheeastendisearlyandcurious;inplaceofbuttressesrecedinginstagesareCorinthianpillarstiedintothewallstheyaretosupportattheirheadsbycapslaidonthem.Thereisnoclerestorytothechurch,onlyanarcadeofrudecharacter.Thewallsofthecathedralareofsandstone,andhavebeensognawedbythewindandrain,thatthewholepilelookslikeapieceofverydecayedcheese.Theinterior,however,isquitesound,reposeful,and



lovely.Thatweather-beatenexterior,withitscalmsweetinterior,struckmeasapictureofmanyagoodChristian,buffetedandwornbystormandtrialwithout,whoseinnerselfiseverstillanduntouched.

[Illustration:CathedralofValence.]

Thechurchwasconsecratedin1095byPopeUrbanII.inperson.AnewwesterntowerhasbeenerectedandaveryfinewestentranceintheRomanesquestyle,allverygood,exceptthetopmoststageofthetower,whichhasprobablybeenconfidedtoaninferiorarchitect,whohasmanagedtomaraworkofgreatpromise.

JacquesCujas,bornatToulousein1520,oneofthemostfamouslawyersofhistime,taughtatValence.Hewasacandidateforthechairoflawsintheuniversityofhisnativecity,butwasrefusedit;acertainForcadelwaselectedinstead,whosechiefmeritseemstohavebeenthathewasawag.Cujas,onleavingToulouse,turned,andshakingthedustoffhisfeetagainstitsaid,"Ungratefulfatherland,inyoumybonesshallnotrest."Hekepthisword,hediedandwasburiedatBourges.Afterhewasgonefromtheplaceandhisfamewassoundedabroad,theuniversityofToulousewantedtorecallhim,andsentalettertohimnominatinghimtothechairoflaws.Hisanswerwas,"Frustraabsentemrequiris,quempraesentemneglexistis.""Invaindoyoudesirehimabsentwhompresentyouflouted."

AtValencehehadeighthundredscholars,whoattendedhislectures.Sogreatwasthereverenceshownforhisopinion,thatitissaidthatintheschoolsofGermany,whentheprofessorsquotedhimtheywerewonttoraisetheirhandstotheircaps.Andhedeservedit.HisburningambitionwastobreakdownthesystemofinjusticetotheaccusedwhichprevailedinFrenchcourts,whereonechargedwithacrime,ifthecrimewereunproveddidnotobtaincompleteacquittal.Hewroteinthecauseofhumanityagainsttheabusesoftyrannyandignorance."Wherethereisnotcompleteproofofguilt,"saidhe,"therelettherebenocondemnation,"amaximobservedinEngland,butnotinFrance."Whatisnotfulltruth,"isasayingofhis,"isfullfalsehood."Itwashishope,hisprayer,thathemightlivetoseetheinjusticeoftheFrenchlawssweptaway.Thathewasnotdestinedtosee.Hewasakindprofessortoallhisscholars.Whenhefoundthatsome

wereneedy,heassistedthemwithmoneyandbooks."Iwasonceapoorerladthanyou,"saidhetoonewhomheassisted,"andverygratefulifanyonewouldhavepityonme."

[Illustration:DoorwayinthehouseDupreLatour,Valence.]

Hehadadaughter,unworthyofhervirtuousfather.Whenhisscholarswerecaughtflirtingwiththedamsel,theywerewonttoexcusethemselvesbysayingthattheywereonly"commentingontheworksofCujas."

Onthisthefollowingepigramwascomposed:--

"ViderasimmensosCujacilaboresAEternumpatricommeruissedecus:Ingenio

haudpoterattammagnumaequareparentemFilia;quodpotuitcorporefecitopus."

InhiswillCujasdesiredthatnoneofhisbooksshouldbesoldtoaJesuit;andthathislibraryshouldbesoldinparcels,lestanyoneshouldusehisill-digestednotesforpublication.Hisbehestwasobeyed.ThebooksellersofLyonspurchasedhisMSS.andusedthemasbindingforbooks.ItwasnottillsixteenyearsafterhisdeaththatAlexanderScottofCarpentras,oneofhispupils,collectedhisworks.



AtValencediedandwasburiedtheunfortunatePopePiusVI.whohadbeentreatedwithgreatharshness,andhadbeenloadedwithinsultsbytheFrench.Hiswas,indeed,astrangestory.Hebeganhispontificateinsplendourin1775,andsettoworkatoncetoaggrandisehisfamily,theBraschi.Hewasamanofrapaciousavarice;ofthisoneglaringinstanceisgiven.Hepersuaded,orcompelled,acertainAmanzioLepritoconstitutehimhisheir,andhandovertohimthetitle-deedsofanestateworthmanymillionsoflire.ThenaturalheirsofLepriweregreatlyannoyedatthis,andinstitutedproceedingsbeforethetribunals,whichgavejudgmentsometimesforthemandsometimesforthePope,andthemattermighthavedraggedonindefinitely,hadnotpublicopinionbeguntomanifestitselfwithsuchforcethatPiusthoughtitbesttoagreetoacompromise.

IneverythingrelatingtohimselfandhisfamilythePopeshowedunboundedextravaganceandostentation.HehadpedigreesmanufacturedtoprovethedescentofhisfamilyfromancientScandinavianheroes,andthatofhisnephews,onwhomheheapedhonours,fromtheDukesofBenevento.Hecollectedalltheproudestdevicesofheraldrytoincorporatethemasquarteringsintohisarms,andthisgaverisetoanepigramfromthepenofanex-Jesuit,tothiseffect:"TheeaglebelongstotheEmpire,theliliesofthefieldtoFrance,toheavenbelongsthestars--toBraschiwhat?Puff."

HisextravagancehadbecomesogreatthattheStatesoftheChurchwere

practicallybankruptlongbeforetheFrenchoverranandpillagedthem.Inhismoneydifficultieshelaidhishandsonthefundsappropriatedtopiousworks,andsobarefacedwerehisrobberiesatlast,thattenyearsbeforetheFrenchinvasionhehadappropriated36,000poundsweightofsilverfromtheHolyHouseofLoretto.Thencamethecrash.ThisluxuriousandsplendidPope,inhisoldage,wasreducedtobeaprisoner,andtobehustledaboutfromplacetoplacebytheFrench.HehadbeensentfirsttotheCertosa,nearFlorence,withonlytwocompanions;then,byorderoftheDirectory,wasconveyedtoParma.Therehewasallowedtoremainonlythirteendays,and,inspiteofhisageandgrowinginfirmities,wasconveyedtothecitadelofTurin.Onedaywasthereallowedhimforrepose,andthenhewascarriedovertheAlpinepassofMontGenevreinApriltoBriancon.Therehewasleftinpeace,butsickandfeeble,tilltheendofJune,whenhewas

hurriedawaybyGaptowardsDijon,butatValencehebecamesoillthathecouldbenofurthermoved,andtherehediedonthe29thAugust1799,threedaysafterhisarrival.

[Illustration:DoorwayandnicheintheMaisondesTetes,Valence.]

ThestoryistoldthattheofficialatBriancononreceivinghim,senttoheadquartersaformalreceiptcouchedintheseterms:"Recu--unpape,enfortmauvaisetat."

ThereisnotmuchofinterestindomesticarchitectureatValence,withthesoleexceptionoftheMaisondesTetes,whichstandsnearthemarket-place,andwhichissculpturedoverwithgreatrichness,withheadsrepresenting

theseasons,andRomanemperors.TheenrichmentofthishouseisinthestyleofFlamboyantpassingintoRenaissance;thefacadebeinginsandstonehasbeensadlygnawedbythetoothofTime,hasindeedlostalledgetothesculpture,butwithintheentranceporch,whereprotected,thesandstoneretainsitssharpness.Curiouslyenough,nooneknowsforwhomthisgorgeousmansionwasraised.Ithasaprettyinteriorcourt,butthereisnotmuchsculpturetherein.Onecannotquiteforgivetheoriginalownerandedifierofthemansionforabitofostentationandvulgarityofwhichhehasbeenguilty.Thehousehasoneportionlookingontothesquare,butatthesidebendsawayatanobtuseangledownthestreet.Asthewholefacade



wasnotvisibleatasingleglance,onlythatportionwhichwasmostseenwassculptured,andthatwithoverpoweringrichness,whereastheotherportioninthestreetwasleftbaretobaldness.Windandrainandfrostareengagedinrubbingdownallthedecoration,andflatteningthesurfaceofthedecoratedportiontothesimplicityoftheotherpart.

Thesamedestroyingagenciesareatworkuponaveryquaintmausoleum,onthenorthsideofthecathedral,called_LePendentif_,whichwaserectedin1548inClassicstyleasamonumenttotheMistralfamily.Itisquadrangular,andconsistsoffourgreatpiersattheangles,andisadornedwithpillarsandwitharchesinthesidessustainingavault.Intherusticatedspacethatfillsthesides,quaintsculpturesofmonstersandbirdsofforeignplumagemay,orrathermighthavebeentraced,thehoneycombingbyweatherhasmadethemalmostundiscoverable.Probablythestructureismorepicturesquenowinitsdecaythaniteverwasbefore.

ImmediatelyoppositeValence,onthefarthersideoftheRhone,risesaboldscarpofsandstonecliff,crownedwiththeruinedcastleofCrussolabovethevillageofS.Perayatitsfeet,whereismadeaverycapitalsparklingwine,notatallinferiortochampagne.Thereisalsothereanoddchateau,designed,itisbelieved,byMarshalVauban,ontheplanofamimicfortress,withbastions,curtains,glacis,portcullis,andloopholes.ItisnowtheresidenceoftheownerofthegreatvineyardswheretheS.Perayeffervescingwineismade.

TheviewofthecliffofCrussolandthevillageofS.PerayfromtheterraceofValenceisspoiledbytheriverbeingatsomedistancefromthebaseoftheterrace,andtheflatlandthatintervenesbeingcoveredbypoplars,manufactoriesandcottages,sothattheRhoneisshutoutfromsight.

Originally,certainly,thecliffonwhichstandsthecathedral,aswellasthatnowconvertedintoapromenade,weresweptbytheRhone,butithasthrownitsgravelsontotheleftbankandcutitswayfarthertothewest.

ThecastleofCrussolbelongedtotheDukesd'Uzes,andoccupiesaheadlandformedbythetorrentatitsside,thathassawnachasmthroughthesoft

sandstoneinitscoursetojointheRhone.Withinthewallsmaybeseentheremainsofasmalltownthatclusteredthere,muchlikeLesBaux,butnowcompletelydeserted.ThefamilyofCrussolwasnotofmuchnotetillLouisdeCrussolgainedthefavourofLouisXI.,andwascreatedhischamberlain,andgovernorofDauphine.ThesonmarriedtheheiressofUzes,andwithherthetitleofviscountpassedtotheirsonCharles,whosesonAnthonyobtainedthetitleofDuked'Uzes.ThereisnothingveryremarkableinthestoryoftheCrussols,buttheoriginoftheUzesisofromanticinterest.

Therewerethreebrothers,Ebles,Guy,andPierre,whohadalittleestateandcastleatUzesnearNimes.Theretheylivedtogether,unmarried,andinverypinchedcircumstances.So,onedayEblessaidtohisbrothersthatitwasashabbylifeforthreegentlementhustolivescrapingafewcoppers

togetherwhilstallwasbeautifulbeyondUzes.LetthemallthreeleavethecrumblingwallsandleakyroofofUzestothebatsandowls,andseektheirfortunesinthecourtsofprinces.

Hisadvicewasrelished,andtheyinvitedtheircousin,namedElias,acomicpoet,totravelwiththem.NowGuy,theyoungestofthebrothers,andEblestheeldest,hadaprettygiftatpoetry,andthesecondbrother,Pierre,hadapleasantpipe,sotheyagreedthatEblesshouldwrite _sirventes_,andGuy_chansons_,andthatPierreshouldsingthem.Moreover,Eliasshouldcomposelittlecomediesthatcouldbeperformedby



theirsmallparty,andtheprofitsweretobeequallysharedbetweenthem.Theyalsoputtheirhandstogetherandvowedtobetrueandfriendly,andnottoseparatetilltheycamebacktoramshackleUzes.

Sothecompanystarted,andwentfirsttothecourtofReynald,ViscountofAlbuzoniandofMargueritehiswife,whoreceivedthemwithpleasure,bothofthembeingfondofProvencalpoetry.Thebrothersandcousinhadgreatsuccesswiththeirsongsandcomedies,sentroundthehat,andgotahandsomesum.Then,whentheyhadsuckedtheirorange,theywentfarther,mountedlikepaladins,andpassedintotheterritoriesoftheCountessofMontferrat,whoreceivedthemquiteascordiallyashadtheViscountofAlbuzoni.Theretheysangandtwangedtheguitar,buthavingunhappilycomposedsomesatiricalversesunderthetitleof"TheLifeoftheTyrants"inwhichthemoralsandgreedofthepopesandsomeoftheprincesofEuropewerechastised,thePapalLegatecomplainedandthreatenedthemwithpublicpunishment;hefinallyimposedsilenceonthem,underthreatofexcommunication.Thenthelittlecompanyreturnedhomeladenwithtreasures,butsadatheart;andGuydiedabout1230.Thecompanymusthavedoneprettywell,ifGuyfoundedwithhisshareoftheprofitsthefamilywhichlaterbecameoneofviscounts.Ifeardramaticandmusicalcompaniesnowadayshavenotthesamesuccess.

CHAPTERXXI.

VIENNE.

Historicassociations--SalvationArmybonnets--Thefair--Aquack--Avampire--Theamphitrite--A_carousel_--TempleofAugustusandLivia--TheAiguille--Cathedral--Angelsandmusicalinstruments--S.Andre-le-Bas--SituationofVienne--FoundationoftheChurchthere--LetteroftheChurchonthemartyrdomsatLyons.

IwentontoViennewithmindfullofthoughtsoftheBurgundiankingdomofwhichitwasthecapitalinthefifthcentury,ofS.Avitus,ofKingClovis,ofCalixtusII.,ofthecondemnationoftheTemplarsattheCouncilofViennein1307--oneofthemostcruelandiniquitousdeedsdonebytheCrownofFranceincompactwiththePapacy--andIfoundmyselfplunged,unexpectedly,suddenly,intothevortexofagreatpopularfair.Ihadpassedfromafairinaconditionoflanguorintooneinfullflushoflife.

Whichwastobedonefirst,thetempleofAugustusandLivia,theremainsoftheRomantheatre--microscopicIfoundafterwards--thecathedralofS.Maurice,ortheshows?

Butsurely,theproperstudyofmankindisman,soIresolvedonseeingthefairfirst,andafterthatofstudyingtheantiquities,andindulginginantiquarianandhistoricdreams.

Theweatherwassorry:windandthreateningsofrain.Moreoveritwascoldandovercast.Yetnothingdampedtheardourofthesellers,andtheacquisitivenessofthebuyers.But--hadIcomeuponanurseryofhallelujahlasses?WerethenightstobemadehideouswithSalvationArmyhowls?Onallsidesofmeweregreatgirlsandlittlegirls,matronsandmaids,inSalvationArmystraws.Iturnedsickandfaintwithdismay.Inthecityof



S.Mamertius,ofS.AvitusandofAdo--"General"Booth'sgreatReligiousSpeculation!Itwasnotso,however,Iwasrejoicedtofind,onlyallthewomenhadbeenbuyingstrawsinthefairoftheSalvationArmyshapethatweresellingcheap,andhavingboughtthemranhome,trimmedthem,andthenouttheypoppedagainandmarchedabouttoshowthem.

Anavenueofboothsandstalls.Boots,strawhatsandSalvationbonnets,ribbons,kerchiefs,booksandengravings.Therewasevenareducedhouseholdsellingoffalltheirworldlygoods,lamps,chairs,prayer-books,kettles,crocks,linen--andaspinning-wheel.Ilookedlovingly,longinglyatthatspinning-wheel,andmighthaveboughtitforafrancandahalf,andwouldhavedoneso,hadInotbeenencumberedwiththehurdy-gurdy. _That_hadbroughtmeintosuchdifficultiesthatIfeltconvincedahurdy-gurdy+aspinning-wheelwouldlodgemeinalunaticasylum.SoreluctantlyIleftit.

Agustofwind,andawaywentthestrawhatsfromthestall,upintotheair,overtheheadsofthecrowd,spinningalonginthegutters;one,averykiss-me-quick,wasblownslapinthefaceofanoldpriesttrudgingalongreadinghisbreviary.Thensuchoutcries,entreaties,objurgations,asthestrawhatsandbonnetswererunafterandrecovered,orsoughttoberecovered.

Here--aquackwithanassortmentofbonesthatweresobrowntheylookedas

iftheyhadbeendevilled,buttheyhadacquiredtheirtonefromhishands.Heheldupadistortedpieceofspineandpelvis,anddeclaredhehadaplastersocurative--fiftycentimes,tensous--thatitwouldrestraightenthemostcurvedback.Asforcorns!Heraisedahorriblefoot,appliedtoitsometowsteepedingreenfat,rapidlynarratedthetreatmentherecommended--_etvoila!_--hedrewawaythetow,andthesupposedcornwaslodgedinthemidstofit.Aninflammationofthelungs?adarlingchildsick?Heopenedacoffinandexposedababyskeleton."Look!your_cherenfant_willbelikethis,butforfiftycentimesIwillsaveit,Iguarantee.Peltmewithrottenapples,withaddledeggs,ifIfail.Thisplasterplacedhere(heappliedittothebreastoftheskeleton),andyourchildbreathesthus(drewalonginhalation)--iswell.Warts(alabourerheldupahornyhand,themiddlejointofthelittlefingerdisfiguredwith

suchexcrescences)?Nothingeasier!Youtakethisbottle--wartsaremyspeciality--yourubthewartwiththis.Thankyou,fiftycentimes.ComeherenextSunday.Ifthewartbenotgone--Idonotsayitwillnotleaveascar,butthescarwilldisappearinamonth--hereisaknife,stickitintomyheart.Igiveyouleave.Iwillnotresist.Iwillnotbudge."

[Illustration:HouseinVienne.]

Here--amansellingsilvering-liquor,tobeappliedtovulgaryellowspoons,onlyafrancabottle,andawholesetturnedintopurestsilver-plating,platingthatwillnotwearoutthroughallyourlives.

Then,amongtheshows:--Cora,theBeautifulSerpentCharmer.Corawas

outsidebeatingadrum,andwasquitethereverseofbeautiful;shemayhavehadthefacultyofcharmingserpents,butnotmen.Aclusterofyoungsoldiersstoodwithout,shooktheirheads,andwouldnotbealluredwithin.

"Galeriedesactualitesartistiques"--apeep-showatphotographsfromtheParisExhibition.

"TherealVampire,alive,livingonBLOOD.CalledbytheChinese,fromitspowersoftraversingtwentykilometresinanhour,'TheFlyingHorse.'"



Theshowmanwasoutside,haranguing.Hissystemwastothrilltheaudiencewithhorror,tilltheyprecipitatedthemselvesinaspasmofterrorintohisshow.Justaswhenoneisonaheight,anervous,uncontrollableimpulsefillssomementothrowthemselvesdownoutofveryfearoffalling,sodidthisgreatartistinhorrorsworkupthefeelingsofhisaudiencetosuchtensionthatitbecameinsupportable,theymustgoheadlongin,andseethevampire,iftheydiedforit.

"Thevampireistobeseen--smackinghislips--thirsting,ravening,forBLOOD.Aliverabbitwillbeofferedhim;hewillrollhiseyes,lookatthehumanbeingspresent,trythebarsofhiscage--hecannotreachthem.Enfin,arabbitisbetterthannothing!Mesdames,jevousimplore!Donotbringyourbabeswithin.Asternnecessity--acarefortheconsequenceswouldpreventmefromadmittingthem.Thesightofahumanbaberousesinthevampirethesanguinarypassiontoaparoxysmoffrenzy.Initsnaturalstatethevampiresucksthebloodofmen.ThisvampirehassuckedthatofKINGS,andtohavetodescendto--RABBIT!"

[Illustration:AtVienne.]

Ididnotexpendmysoustoseethewretchedbat,butIdidlavishthirtycentimesontheamphitritenextdoor.TheprogrammewassocharacteristicallyFrenchthatIgiveit:--

"Amphitritevivante.Touslessoirsaucouchedusoleilellelaissesonpalaisroyaldecorauxetd'algues,etsortdesvaguessombrespourjouirdesonamourideal.Legereetvaporeusecommeunange,ellecaresselesondes,etobserved'undouxregardsonideal,etreplongeaufonddel'ocean.Depeindreavecquelleperfectiononpresentecetteexperienceaupublicestimpossible!!!"

Thirtycentimes,reservedseats;twenty,unreserved.Asitturnedout,therewerenoseatsatall,butaslushysoilonwhichonestood,wherethewaterhadruninunderthesidesofthebooth,andwhichsightseershad,withtheirboots,churnedintomud.

IsupposedIwastoseeanautilus;itwaslegereetvaporeux,itcouldnot

thenbeaseal.No,anautilus.Thirtycentimes--heregoesforasightofthenautilus.Butitwastouchingtoobservetheconfidenceoftheshowman.Herefusedtheentrancefee.

"No,gentlemen.Youshallyourselvesdecidewhethertheamphitriteisworthsixsous.Ifyousaynot--goforth;Iamcontent,butIpityyou."

Apieceofdruggetservedasacurtain,whichcutoffwhatmaybetermedthestage.Atasignalthedruggetwaswithdrawn,andthespectatorslookedintoacave,thesidesmadeofpaintedcalico.Beyondthiswastheripplingocean,withtheeveningsunsparklingonit,muchlikethescenein"Oberon,"onlyonaverysmallscale,andwithnostage.Atawordfromtheshowman,Amphitritearose.ByGinger!notanautilus,notaseal,but

alivinggirlofsixteensummers,infleshings,whofloatedintheair,maderevolutions,wavedherhands,stoodonherhead,touchingnothing,preciselyasifshereallyweredevoidofallspecificgravity.Onlywhenhandorfoottouchedthecalico-rocksdidthesesamerocksbegintowaveabout.

Isupposedatthetime,Isupposestill,thatthetrickisdonebymeansofmirrors.But_how_--Icannotconceive.PresentlythehatwentroundforAmphitrite'sspecialbenefit:her_amourideal_hadsomethingofthesordidmammoninit.Aseveryoneputacopperintothehat,"Merci,monsieur;



merci,madame!"waswhatshesaid.Sothatthereisadifficultyinsupposingthatthephenomenonwasachievedbyreflectors.Shewatchedandacknowledgedeveryofferingmade,asshecalmlyfoldedherarmsandfloatedinmid-air,withheadononeside,observant.

Ican'texplainit--Iampuzzledstill.Ipaidmythirtycentimeswithalacrity,sodideveryoneelse.Theshowwasworththemoney.

Therewasamerry-go-round--a_carousel_;theonlyfeatureinitwithwhichIwasunfamiliarwasaship,sailsspread,onapivotathwartthering,sothatitswayedasonarollingseawhenthe_carousel_wasinrevolution.Iwouldnothaveenteredthatshipfortwentyfrancs.Beforetheorchestrionthataccompaniedthemerry-go-roundhadaccomplishedthefirststrainofStrauss'swaltzIshouldhavebeenfeeblycallingforthesteward.Iobservedthatthosesillyyoungsterswithnauticalproclivitieswhodidscrambleintotheswayingship,gotoutwithlividlips,anddidnotasktogoinagain.

SomeyearsagoIwasatInnsprueckwithafriend.Weweresaunteringtogetherintheafternoon,notexactlyknowingwhattodowithourselves,whenwefoundoneofthese_carousels_.Wewentfarther;thenIsaid,"WewillreturnandgoandseetheXaverianum"--acollectionofpaintings,mostlydaubs,atInnsprueck."No,"saidmycompanion,"Idon'tfeelinclinedfortheXaverianum,I'llgodownbytheriver."Soweparted.Now,Ihad

notgonefaralongmywayinthedirectionoftheXaverianum,beforeIsaidtomyself,"Idon'twanttoseetheXaverianumeither;but,asmyfriendisaway--uponmyword--Iamunknownhere!I'll--yes,Iwill--byJove,Iwill--I'llgoandhavearoundonthewhirligig."

SoIretracedmysteps,and,onreachingthemerry-go-round,whatshouldIbeholdbutmyfriendseatedonapiebaldhorse,withashortswordinhishand,aimingatthetargetshepassedinhisrevolution.Hewasabald-headedman,withalonggreybeard.Hisfaceandheadbecamelikeabeetrootwhenhesawme;butIcomfortedhim.AtWuerzburg,intheEpiscopalpalace,isa_carousel_,inwhichthebishop--aprinceelector--waswontonrainydaystogoroundandround,seatedinapurplevelvetchairwiththeEpiscopalarmsembroideredonthecurtains,andthemitreoverit.

Enoughofthefair.Nowtogravermatters;andfirstthetempleofAugustusandLivia.Idonotknowwhetheritwasthattheweatherwasgloomy,orthatthefairhadsetmeoutoftuneforantiquities;butsomehowthistempledidnotimpressmeasdidthedearlittleMaisonCarreeatNimes.Foronethingthestoneisdingy,whereasthatofNimesisbrightandwhite;andtheproportionsdidnotpleaseme.IbelievetheknowingonessaythattheNimestempleisnotproportionedaccordingtothelawsofVitruvius,andthisatVienneis.Ifthatbethecase,thenIamsorryforVitruvius.Thetempleisstructurallyperfect--asperfectasthatofNimes.

AnotherobjectofinterestistheAiguille,aRomanobeliskseventy-sixfeethigh.Thereisasquarebase,piercedbyarchesineachface,andthe

obelisk,orpyramidrather,standsonthis.Itisnotverybeautiful,butitisworthexamining.ItisthoughtthatthemonumenttoMariusatPourriereswassomewhatsimilar.

[Illustration:Hurdy-GurdyPlayedbyanAngel.]

ThecathedralofVienneisofsandstone,andhasdecayedaccordingly.Thewestend,whichwasveryrich,andisrichstill,hassufferedfromcorrosionintheupperpart;butafirmer,lessfriablesandstonewasfortunatelyemployedforthelowerstage,inwhichistherichest



sculpture,andthatisfairlyperfect.Murraypooh-poohsthiswestfront:"Itisrichinflamboyantornaments,buttheyareclumsyandwithoutdelicacy."Thesculpturewasadaptedtothematerial,andanyotherwouldnothavelookedwell.AfterthesevereandbaldwestfrontsinProvence,Iwasdisposed,Isuppose,tobepleasedwiththerichfacadeatVienne.Iconfessthat"clumsyandwithoutdelicacy"thoughitmightbe,Ithoroughlyenjoyedit.Butthatfacadecaughtmequitebymyweakpoint.Thereisacentraldoorway,andoneintoeachaisle,androundthearchwaysintotheselateraldoorsaresculpturedangelsplayinguponmusicalinstruments.AsIhavetoldthereader,ancientformsofmusicalinstrumentsaremyhobby,orratheroneofmyhobbies.Iatoncepulledoutmysketch-bookanddrewthem;thereareangelswithfiddles,angelswithviols--no,nothurdy-gurdys!--buttwangedwiththefingers,angelswithpipesandhorns,onewithaharp,twowithportableorgansoftenpipesineach,twoangelswithbagpipeswithsingledrones.Conceiveofasalutationonbagpipesfromthecelestialchoir!Anangelplaysthecymbals,andanotherwithaplectrumstrikesametaldisc.

[Illustration:ChurchofS.Andre-le-Bas.TheTower.]

Theinteriorofthecathedralisremarkableforthepeculiarlyfinesculptureofthecapitalsofthepillars.Thefoliageisofexquisitelovelinessandvariety;butoverthetranseptdoorisaveryBrueghelcreationofhorrors--infact,thezodiacalsignsworkeduptogetherintoa

nightmare.

AchurchofremarkableinterestinVienneisS.Andre-le-Bas;ithasinittwoRomanmarbleCorinthiancolumnssupportingthearchoftheapse,andaCorinthiancapitalusedasafont.

ThesituationofVienneisremarkable,itresemblesoneofthetownsontheRhine,wheretheriveriscontractedamonghills.

Themountainsriseimmediatelybehindthecity,andarecrownedwitholdcastles.Thespacebetweentheriverandthebasesoftheheightsissmall,andthecityissomewhatcrampedaccordingly.ButtheGereissuesfromthehillsonthenorth,andgivessomescopeforthesuburbsoftheoldtownto

creepupitsbanks.

VienneisoneofthemostancienttownsofGaul,itwasthecapitaloftheAllobroges;itclaimsasthefounderoftheChurchthereCrescens,discipleofS.Paul.Crescens,itwillberemembered,wassentbyPaulintoGalatia.ThatwasquitesufficientfortheseGallicenthusiasts,whodesiredtogivetotheFrenchbishopricsApostolicfounders.TheysupposedthatGalatiawasaslipofthepenforGallia,andargued,iftoGallia,thentoVienne,themostancientandimportantcitytherein,_q.e.d._ButnobishopofVienneappearsfixedwithanycertaintybeforeVerus,whoattendedtheCouncilofArlesinA.D.314.Itis,however,quitecertainthattheChurchwasfoundedtherebeforeA.D.150;foroneofthemostpreciousandauthenticrecordsoftheearlyChurchwehaveistheletterwrittenbytheVienne

ChristianstothoseoftheEast,recordingthemartyrdomofthebishopPothinusofLyons.

[Illustration:Portedel'Ambulance,Vienne.]

ItusedtobesaidoftheoldGallo-Romancitythatitswealthwassogreatthatthestreetswerepavedwithmosaic.Nowonewouldbethankfulforabitthatwassmooth.ThepavementisalmostasbadasthatofArles.



CHAPTERXXII.

BOURGES.

ThesiegeofAvaricumbyCaesar--ThecompletesubjugationofGaul--ThestatueoftheDyingGaulatRome--BeautyofBourges--Thecathedral--Notcompletedaccordingtodesign--Defectinheight--Strictgeometricalproportionindesignnotalwayssatisfactory--Necessityofproportionforacoustics--DomesticarchitectureinBourges--ThehouseofJacquesCoeur--Storyofhislife--Arainyday--WhyBourgesincludedinthisbook--Asilverthimble--_Quedesingeriesfaites-vousla,Madeleine?_--Adieu.

BourgesstandsintheveryforefrontofGaulishhistorymarkedbyagreatdisaster.There,onalittleheightatthejunctionoftheYevreandtheAuron,thegallantBiturigeshadtheircapital,Avaricum.InsixcampaignsCaesarhad,ashebelieved,brokentheneckofallresistance,andGaulwasundertheironheelofRome."MyauntJulia,"saidCaesar,"is,maternally,thedaughterofkings;paternally--"hepassedhisfingersthroughhiscurledandscentedlocks--"paternally,sheisdescendedfromtheimmortalgods."Afterthat,evenbarbariansmustfeelthatitwasinvaintostrive

againstamanthuspreordainedtomastery.Yettheydidnotseeit.

WhenJuliusCaesarwasinRome,aftersixyearsofstubbornconflict,afterincrediblesufferingandbloodshed,theheartofthepeoplethoughboweddownwasnotbroken.

TherelivedamongtheArvernians,inthehighmountainland,amongthevolcanicpeaksofAuvergne,asitisnowcalled,ayoungchief,whoserealnameisnotknown,butwhomhistorycallsVercingetorix,thatis,HeadoveraHundredTribes.Thetimewascomeforanunited,determined,anddesperateresistance.HesentmessengersthroughoutGaul.ThedowntroddeninhabitantsrosetoamanandinvestedVercingetorixwiththechiefcommand.

IntheyearofRome702,B.C.32,CaesarwassuddenlyinformedinItalythathisworkofsixyearswasthreatenedwithruin.MostoftheGallicnations,unitedunderachieftainhithertounknown,wererisingwithonecommonimpulse,andrecommencingwar.

CaesaratoncereturnedtoGaul.Hehadonequality,rareevenamongstthegreatestmen,heremainedcoolamidstthehottestalarms.Hewasalwaysquick,neverhasty.Heplacedhimselfattheheadofhistroops,and,intheearlypartofMarch,movedtowhatisnowSens,theverycentreofrevolt,andlookedroundtodecidewherefirsttostrike.

Vercingetorixfromtheoutsetknewthattheill-armedandworsedisciplined

GaulscouldnotcopeintheopenfieldwithCaesarandtheRomanlegions;hethereforeformedaplanofcampaignthatrequiredgreatsacrificesonthesideoftheGauls,forthesakeofthecommonsafety.Nowalls,heassuredtheconfederates,couldwithstandtheskilloftheRomansinengineering,noarraymaintainitselfinthefieldagainsttheirphalanx.Butheremindedthemthatthroughthewinterandearlyspringthesoilonwhichtheenemytrodcouldnotfurnishhimwithprovision.Hemustdispersehistroopsamongthefortresses.Letthen,saidhe,nofurtherattemptsbemadetodefytheRomanintheopenfield;lethimratherbefollowedindetail,andcutoffwhenseparatedintocantonments,andaboveall,letthetowns



thatservedhimformagazinesbedestroyedbythehandsoftheinhabitantsthemselves.HerecommendedinfacttheverycoursepursuedmorethaneighteenhundredyearslaterbytheRussiansagainsttheFrenchCaesar,acoursewhichprovedfataltohim.

TheassembledcouncilofGaulishstatesassentedgallantlytothisproposal.InonedaytwentycitiesoftheBiturigeswereflaming,andsimilarhavocwasmadethroughouttheterritoriesoftheallies.ButwhenthefateofAvaricum(Bourges)cametobediscussed,theheartsoftheBiturigesfailedthem.Theirdeputiesknelttotheassembledchiefsandintercededforthepreservationoftheirbeautiful,andastheydeemedit,impregnablecity.Thecouncilyielded.InvaindidVercingetorixurgethemtocarryouttheirdeterminationwithoutexception.Theywouldsurrendereveryothercitytotheflames,butnottheirlovedcapital,notAvaricum.

Thesituationwasadmirablycalculatedfordefence.Itstoodonrisingground,andtheonlyapproachtoitthenwasacausewaybetweentheriverandamorass.Thegarrisonlabourednightanddaytostrengthentheirdefenceswithearthworksandwithpalisadesofsharpenedstakes.TheRomansatoncemovedfromSensandsurroundedtheplace.ThestoryofitsfallIwilltakefromthegraphicpenofDeanMerivale:--"WhilsttheBiturigeswithintheircitywerehardpressedbythemachinerywhichtheRomanengineersdirectedagainsttheirwalls,theforcesoftheproconsulontheirsidewereharassedbythefatiguesofthesiegeandthescarcityof

provisions.Caesarislavishofpraiseinspeakingofthefortitudewithwhichhissoldiersboretheirprivations;theyrefusedtoallowhimtoraisethesiege,andwhenheatlastledthemagainsttheenemy'sarmy,andfindingittoostronglypostedforanattack,withdrewthemagainwithintheirlines,theysubmittedtothedisappointment,andbetookthemselvesoncemorewithoutamurmurtothetediousoperationsoftheblockade.Theskilloftheassailantsatlengthtriumphedoverthebraveryofthedefenders.Thewallswereapproachedbytowersatvariouspoints,andmoundsconstructedagainstwhichthecombustiblemissilesofthebesiegedwereunavailing.Finally,adesperatesallywasrepulsed,andthen,atlasttheconstancyoftheBiturigesbegantofail.Takingadvantageofamomentwhenthewatchonthewallshadrelaxeditsvigilance,Caesarmarshalledhislegionsbehindhisworks,andpouredthemsuddenlyagainsttheopposing

ramparts.Theygainedthesummitofthewalls,whichthedefendersabandonedwithoutablow,rallying,however,inthemiddleofthetown,insuchhastyarrayastheemergencywouldallow.Abloodystruggleensued;bothpartieswerenumerous,andtheassailantsgavenoquarter.TheGaulswereroutedandexterminated,theirwomenandchildrenmercilesslyslaughtered,andthegreatcentralcityofGaulfellintothehandsoftheconquerorswithoutaffordingasinglecaptivefortheirtriumph."Afterthatthefateoftheinsurrectionwassealed.Thewarwascarriedonwithfluctuationsoffortuneevenintoaneighthcampaign,andthentheyokeofRome,iron,anddoublyweightedwiththewrathoftheconqueror,wasrivetedontotheneckofprostrateGallia,neveragaintobeshakenoff.

[Illustration:Astreetcorner,Bourges.]

Now,dayafterdayatRomeduringthewinterhadIstoodbeforetheDyingGaulintheCapitolineMuseum,thatstatueofincomparablepathos:--

"Heleansuponhishand--hismanlybrowConsentstodeath,butconquersagony,Andhisdroopedheadsinksgraduallylow--Fromtheredgashfallheavy,onebyone,Likethefirstofathunder-shower;andnowThearenaswimsaroundhim--heisgone,



Ereceasedtheinhumanshoutwhichhailedthewretchwhowon."

_ChildeHarold._

ThestatueisnotofaDyingGladiator,butofaGaulishchief,whohasdealthimselfthedeath-woundratherthanfallintoservitudetotheRoman,andthenhasbrokenhissword.

And,afterhavinglookedanddreamedoverthatfigure,couldonecometoBourgesandnotthinkofthatheroicandfatalstruggle?

Bourgeswasabeautifulcityinthosetimes,lovedbytheBiturigessothattheycouldnotresolvetodestroyit;butoh!howbeautifulitisnow,withitsquaintMediaevalandRenaissancehouses,andaboveallthatmostgloriouscathedral,oneoftheveryfinestcreationsofartintheworld.Andyet,itisnotperfect.Theoriginaldesignwasnotcarriedout.Thenavehasnottheheightproposed.Fundsfailed,anditwasfinishedoffasbestmightbe.Itwantsaboutforty-sixfeetoftheheightitshouldhavehad,tobeincorrectproportion.Theflyingbuttressesoutsideweredesignedandexecutedtocarryavaultingsomeforty-sixfeethigherthanthepresentone,andtheyarenowofnouse;theysustainnothing,alltheoutwardthrustofthecentralvaultisthrownonthesecondstageofbuttresses.Fineasistheinterior,itoughttobefiner.Theclerestorywindowsaredwarfed,andtheheightofthesideaislesisfelttobeout

ofallproportiontothatofthenave.Moreover,thereisnothingofthewonderfulskillofdesignintheapsidalchapels,thatisseenatAmiens,Vezelai,Beauvais,&c.Insteadofforminganintegralportionoftheplan,theyaremereexcrescencesinthesidesoftheapse.

However,inspiteofdefects,partlyindesign,butmainlythroughlackofmeanstocarryitout,thecathedralofBourgesisofsingularbeauty.InonepointthearchitectwasagreatermanthanthedesignersofAmiensandCologne.Thesetwocathedralsareinstrictproportioninalltheirparts.Thedesignerofeach,likethearchitectofYorkMinster,wasagreatmanwiththecompasses.Butanarchitectshouldbeartistaswellasgeometrician.IhaveeverfeltinYorkMinster,inAmiensandCologne,thatthereisalackofgenius,ofthehumansoulinthecreation.

Thereisstrictformality,exactrule,thatisall.Noallowancehasbeenmadeforeffectofperspective,fortheforeshorteningtotheeyeatdistances;thereisnopoetryinthesethreecathedrals.Thedesignersdrewthemoutonpaperwithouthavingthefacultyofseeingthemintheirminds'eyerisebeforethemoutofthesoil.Thesechurchesmadebettersketchesthantheydostructures.Theyareinadmirableproportiononpaper,buttheyareoutofproportionwhenseeninstone.NowsucharchitectsasthemenwhodesignedBeauvaisandBourgesweregeniuses.Theywerenottiedhardandfastbyruleofcompass.Theyworkedfromadefinitegeometricplan,butdeviatedfromitwheretheirtasteandfeelingforbeautytaughtthemthatsuchdeviationwasadvisable.NowatBeauvaisandatBourgestheexact,proportionshavebeenabandoned.Forinstance,atBourges,tobe

exact,eachofthetwosideaislesshouldhavebeenhalfthewidthofthenave.Butthearchitectwasperhapsafraidofthegreatspan,perhapshedreadedtoogreatformality,andhemadetheaislenexttothenaveabout2ft.3in.lessthanthewidthitoughttohavehad,ifinexactproportion.Theouteraislewasgivenalmost,butnotquite,theexactproportionalwidth.

Thegreatdefectofourmodernarchitectsisthattheydonotworkfromafoundationofgeometricalproportion,butdesignoutoftheirownheadsbyeye;wearesometimesdistressedatfindingthatourchurchesrecently



builtarebadacoustically.Thisisverygenerallyduetothefactthattheyhavebeenbuiltregardlessofgeometricproportion.

IfBourgeshadbeencarriedoutasintended,thecrownofthevaultwouldhavebeenexactlyseventimeshalfthewidthofthenave.S.Servin,Toulouse,hasthekeystoneofthevaultexactlyfivetimesthehalfwidth.Ifwedesiretohavegoodacousticqualitiesinourchurchesandhallswemustobservesomesuchrule.Sowiththeplan.ThelengthofAutunisseventimesthewidthofthenave;Beauvaisthesame,orwouldhavebeen,hadthenavebeencompleted.Amienshasexactlythesameproportion,measuredtotheendoftheapse.SoNoyon.Infact,theMediaevalarchitectswerecarefultobuildsoasnevertogiveevenproportions.Twice,fourtimes,sixtimes,wouldhavehadbadacousticeffects.Therewouldhavebeenanecho.

Ofthesculptureonthewestfacade,therichly,deeply-recessedportals,Iwillnotspeak.Thathasbeensufficientlyobservedandadmiredbyotherwriters.Iamnotwritingaguide-book,andIdonotasarulenoticeatanylengthwhatmaybefoundineasily-accessibleworks.Here,asatRouen,isabuttertower,socalledbecausebuiltwithmoneypaidforindulgencetobeallowedtoeatbutterinLent.DoesthereaderknowhowstrictlytheobservanceofLentwasenforceddowntotheCivilWarsinEngland?IhavegonethroughsomeepiscopalregistersofourEnglishbishopssincetheReformation,andfindthatinJamesI.'stimeabishop'slicencewas

soughttoobtainpermissiontoeatmeatinLent.Notonlyso,butallschoolmasters,surgeons,andmidwiveswererequiredtoobtainanepiscopallicencebeforebeingpermittedtopractiseinthediocese.

InBourgesonefeelsthatoneisremovedaltogetherfromtheinfluencesthatmouldedarchitectureinProvence.TheretheabundanceofClassicremainsaffectedthemindsandformedthetasteoftheMediaevalbuilders.InCentralFrancetherewerefewtracesoftheRomanconquerors,andGothicarchitecturedevelopedfreelyaccordingtoitsowngenius.Thedomesticarchitectureisdifferent.Wecomenowtothegablesstandingoverthestreet.TherearemanyandcharmingspecimensinBourges.AmongthehousesisthatofCujas,concerningwhomsomeanecdoteshavealreadybeentold.BourgeswasfamousforitsUniversityandSchoolofLaws,andCujaswas

invitedtoaprofessorshipinit.Thehouseisofbrick,ofthesixteenthcentury,andrichlyadorned.AnotherinterestinghouseisthatofCharlesVII.,withagracefulstaircase,andanoldhallwithopenfireplace.ButthestrikingmansionofallisthatofJacquesCoeur,theBourgesjeweller,fatherofanArchbishopofthishisnativecity.Throughoutthehouseisintroducedhiscantingdevice,ahumanheartandthescallopshellofS.James.Hismottoisalsograven,"Availlantscoeursrienimpossible."

[Illustration:PartofJacquesCoeur'sHouse.]

Ihatedoingathingagainandinaninferiormannerthathasalreadybeendoneinimitably;andMadameParkes-Belloc,withherfreshpendippedinsunlighthaswrittenaboutBourgesandJacquesCoeur'shouseinher

charmingbook,'LaBelleFrance,'[1]andIdarenottreadafterher.SoIsimplyquoteherwords--Ifearherpleasantbookisnotmuchsoughtafterandreadnow:--"HisdwellingmusthavefittedJacquesCoeurasitsskinfitsananimal.Allitsquaintarchitecturalcornersseem,asitwere,wrinklesandcreases,wherebyitadapteditselftothenatureandgeniusoftheman.We,inourday,knownothingofsuchastyleofbuilding.Ifwewantalargehousewesendforanarchitect,whosubmitshisplanstoourenlightenedjudgment;allottingamplestairs,asufficiencyofbestbedrooms,kitchen,butler'spantry,&c.Ifratherless,thenrathercheaper;andastomakingtheslightestdifferenceinstyleonaccount



ofourlatepursuits,aswhether,forinstance,wewerearetiredcandlestick-maker,oraLordChancellor,oraphysician,theveryideawouldsavouroflunacy.NotsoJacquesCoeur.Thismanwished,indying,toleaveabeautifulshellbehindhim,sothatthepassers-bymightsay:'Herelivedagreatmerchant;hehadawife,sons,andadaughter,andnumerousdomestics.Helikedhismoney,butlovedartmore.Hekeptanegro;hewaspious,alsoloyal.Hedidn'tmindfighting,ifneedsmustbe;butpreferredcommerceandpolitics.HelovedBourges,andBourgeslovedhim;forhepaidhisworkmenwell.'Allthis,andmore,JacquesCoeurcontinuedtowriteinlegiblecharactersonthewallsofhishouse,someofitontheoutside,someofitontheinside."

[Footnote1:Publishedin1868.]

Hehadhumour,aquaintconceit,thismanofgoldandjewelry.Hehadtheveryknockertohisdoormadetostrikeupona_heart_.Undertheeavesofhisobservatoryhehadhisnegrosculpturedhugginghismoney-box,andalittlebeyondanangelexhibitinghisnewly-acquiredcoat-of-arms.Theoneledtotheother--themoney-boxbroughtongentility.Hardbyistheshieldofanalliedcommercialfamily,theircoatoneof_fleurs-de-lis_ interspersedwithwoolsacks.TheFuggersofAugsburg,whendesiringacoat,askedMaximilianforlilies--for,saidthesewealthyspinners--asforthelilies,"_They_toilnot,neitherdotheyspin."WithdrollinventionJacqueshadoneofhisfireplacesmadelikeafortress,withlittlewindows

above,outofwhichfolkarepeeping.Hehadagiftforpungentmottoes.Herearesomehehadwroughtintothedecorationsofhishouse:--

"AcloseboucheIln'entremouche."

Anotheris:--

"Entendre,taire,Dire,etfaire,Estmajoie."

Irememberamerchant'shouse,verysumptuous,atSchaffhausen,onwhichhe

hadwrittenthisbitterdevice--"Godpreservemefrommyfriends;Iwillprotectmyselffrommyenemies."AnothermanaltogetherfromJacquesCoeur.

Theendingofthisbright,merry,pomp-lovingmerchantwassad.Hefellintodisgracewithhisking--hehadprobablylenthimtoomuchmoney;hewasaccusedfalselyofseveralcrimes--forgingmoneyandsellingarmstoinfidels,andwasthrownintoprison.Thekingthenseizedhiswealth,toreupthebillsinhisname,andleftoneofJacques'sonsonlyaremnantofhistreasureandthehouse.JacquesCoeurmanagedtoescapefromprison,gottoRome,andwastakenintofavourbyNicolasV.andCalixtusIII.,andwasappointedcaptainofanexpeditionagainsttheTurks.Heisthoughttohavebeenwoundedinaskirmishwiththem,forheisknowntohavediedinChios.Andsohepassedhisoldage,andlaidhisbonesfarfromthehouse

hehadbuiltforhimselfinwhichtoendhisdays,andwasnotburiedinthechapelofthecathedralwhichhehadconstructedashismausoleum.

[Illustration:TurretintheHotelLallemand.]

AnotherverydelightfuloldhouseinBourgesistheHotelLallemand,constructedafterthegreatfireof1487;thereisanotherintheRuedesToiles,andanotheragainintheRueS.Suplice.

[Illustration:StaircaseintheHotelLallemand.]



Thereadermayask--IfyouarewritingabookonProvenceandLanguedoc,whygiveusBourges?Bourges,whichisinBerry,whichisintheverycentreofFrance?ForthesamereasonthatIbeganwithFlorence.OnedoesnotdropoutofaballoonintoProvence,norascendoutofitbyone.Onemuststaysomewhereingoingthere,andstaysomewhereandseesomethingonleavingthere.AndasmystayatFlorenceledonasasortofprefacetomyflightupanddowninProvence,sowillthischapteronBourgesserveasanepilogue.For,inverity,asmyencounterwiththeJewdealerservedmeasanintroductionsoshallalittleincidentImetwithinBourgesservemeasaneasymodeofmakingmyexitwithabow.

Itwasraining.Ithadrainedallday.Theinteriorofthecathedral,darkatalltimeswithitsdeep-dyed(anddirty)glass,wasindarkness,toodeeptoseeandstudymuch.Thegurgoyleswerespouting,theeavesdripping,theguttersrunningasmountaintorrents.However,towardssunset,thewindowsofheavenwereclosed,therainceased,andfolkwhohadbeenindoorsalldaycameoutwithumbrellasandpatteredandsplashedabout.

Now,bysomefatalityathimblehadbeenbroughtdownfromtheroofofoneofthehousesbyadescendingwater-spout;perhapsadragon-gurgoylehadspatitdisdainfullydown.Howhadthethimblegotontheroof?Thatwasthequestion,nothowitgotdownintothegutter.Hadacunningjackdaw,

asinthe'GazzadiLadra'carrieditoff,orhadachildtumbleditoutofanatticwindowontotheleads?

Iwasnottheonlypersoninterestedinthisthimble.Therewasayoungman,astudent,aFrenchexquisite,whoalsoobservedit;andIsawhimpokingatitinthewaterwiththeferruleofhisumbrella.Indeeditwashisbehaviourtowardsthethimblethatattractedmyattentiontoit.Presentlyhemanagedtoextricatethethimblefromtheflood,tolodgeitonapaving-stone,butitwasslipperyandround,androlledoffbetweentwocobbles.Thenheputuphiseye-glassandstudiedit.Wasitworthsoilinghisfingersoverornot?Wasitofsilverorofbrass?Hewalkedroundthethimble,withhiseye-glassup,stoodastrideoverthelittletorrentthathadbroughtitdown,stiffenedhisback,clappedtheumbrella

underhisarm,andpurseduphislipstoconsider.Thenheformedhisresolution,stooped,andwiththeextremepointofhisforefingerturnedthethimbleabout.Thenhestooderectagain,pulledoutapockethandkerchief--sawitwasofspotlesscleanliness,consideredthatitwouldcosthimtwosoustohaveitwashedifhedirtieditbydryingthereonhisforefinger,replacedit,andputhisfingeruphisbackunderhiscoattailsandwipeditonthecalicoofhiswaistcoat.

Hehadmadeuphismindtohavenothingmoretodowiththethimble,whenalongthe_trottoir_cametrippingaprettydamsel,withthepurestofwhitecaps,asallowface,withfinedarkeyesandabundantblackhair.Sheboreoverhershoulder,expanded,aplum-colouredumbrella.Ithadceasedraining,buttheplum-colourthrewoutherpleasantfaceintorelief:she

knewthat,andtrippedonwithoutfoldingit.

Instantlydownbentthestudent,and,regardlessofthedirtywater,pickedupthethimble.Itslippedfromhisfingersintothegutter.Boldlyheplungedhishandin,soilingtherebyhis_manchette_;butherecoveredthetrifle.Thegirlwasabreastofhim,andhadpassedbeforehewasprepared.

Henowpulledoutadogskingloveandpolishedthearticle.It_was_ silver.Heaffixedittotheendofhislittlefingerandwaitedhisopportunity.



Threeladiesapproached.Theyouthpluckedupcourage--holdingouthislittlefingershodwiththethimble.ItwaslikeParisandtheThreeGoddesses.Theladieslookedathim,athisthimble,thenateachother,tossedtheirheads,andwalkedon.

Thencameaveryuglywoman--theexquisiteputthethimbleresolutelybehindhisback.

Next--back,underherplum-colouredumbrella,returnedthegrisette.Atoncethedandystoodforward.

"Mademoiselle,asyoupassedjustnow,assuredlyyoudroppedthis."

[Illustration:SculptureoverthekitchenentranceatJacquesCoeur'shouse.]

"Mais,Monsieur!cen'estpaspossible.Cen'estpasamoi."

"Pardon,mademoiselle,youdroppedit;Isawyou.Ihearditfall."

"Cependant,--itisnotmine."

"Thenitisnobody's.Iwillthrowitaway."

"Mais,monsieur,itisofsilver."

"Takeit,mademoiselle,Ipray."

Sheheldthelittlesilverthimblebetweenthumbandforefinger,turneditabout,studiedit,hesitated,wasinclinedtotakeit,butdidnotwishtoplaceherselfunderanobligationtoafop,andastranger--knittedherbrows--whenupcameayoungworkman,withaleadpencilinhishand--inhisblouse.

"Mais!quedesingeriesfaites-vousla,Madeleine?"saidhe,andflip!--withhispencilhesentthethimbleoutfromherhand,

flying--neitherhe,northegirl,norIsawwhitheritwent,orwhereitfell.

And--justthusstandstheauthorofthislittlework,offeringhistrifletothegentleandwell-disposedreader,whoisinclined,maybe,tobepleasedwithit,andtoadoptit.Butupcomestheenviousreviewer,andwithhispen--flip--hesendsthepoorlittlearticleaway--away--away,intothelimboofforgottenbooks,"quedesingeriesfaites-vousla--aveccettebagatellela?"

[Illustration:JacquesCoeur'sknocker.]

APPENDIX.

A.--MONUMENTSFROMTHEALYSCAMPS.

1.TheinscriptiontoCornelia,daughterofMarius,issomethingofapuzzle.AgainstitsgenuinenessmaybeurgedthatheisrepresentedasconqueroroftheCimbri,whereastheCimbriwerenotdefeatedtillthe



followingyear,nearVercelli.NowitisstrangethatheshouldhavelefthisdaughteratArlesinsteadofmovingherintoItaly;anditisalsooddthat,ifshewereleftthere,heshouldbedesignatedasconqueroroftheCimbri,whereasintheengagementwiththeCimbrihesharedtheglorywithCatulus;andhealonewasvictorovertheTeutonsandAmbronsnearAix.Moreover,onewouldhavesupposedthatatArleshewouldhavebeenentitledtheconqueroroftheselatter,theterrorofwhomhadfallenontheprovince,andnotoftheCimbriwhodidnotmenaceit.

Ontheotherhand,theinscriptionisinshockinglybadLatin;CalpurniaismadeconqueroroftheCimbri,notherfather,byagrammaticalblunder;andonewouldsuspectaforgerwouldhaveavoidedsuchagrotesqueerror,whichisquiteinagreementwithotherblundersmadebythesculptorsofmonumentsintheAlyscamps,whowereclearlyGallo-Greeks,andhardlyunderstoodLatin.

Also--andthisisremarkable--thenameofthegirlisCalpurnia;andCaiusMariuswasanativeofArpinum,andwhenthistownwastakenbytheRomansfromtheSamnites,inB.C.188,thefranchisewasgiventotheinhabitants,whowereenrolledintheCalpurnian_gens_.Nowthisisalittlefactthatitismostimprobableaforgerwouldknow--butitquiteexplainsthegirlreceivingthenameofCalpurnia,ifgenuine.

2.TheTombofJuliaTyranna.Theinscriptionruns:--

IVLIAE.LVC.FILIAE.TYRANNIAE.VIXITANN.XX.M.VIII.QVAEMORIBVS.PARITER.ET.DISCIPLINA.CETERIS.FEMINIS.EXEMPLO.FVIT.ANTARCIVS.NVRVI.LAVRENTIVS.VCXORI.

Itwasraisedtohermemorybyherfather-in-lawAntarcius,andbyherhusband,Laurentius.Theorganisrepresentedwithsevenpipes.

3.

ODOLOR.QVANTAELACHRIMAE.FECERESEPVLCRVM.IVL.LVCINAE.QVAE.VIXIT.KAD.RISSIMA.MATRI.FLOS.AEM.TATIS.HIQ.IACET.INTVS.CONDITA.SAXOO.VTINAM.POSSIT.REPARARI.SPIRITVS.ILLE.VT.SCIRET.QVANTVS.DOLOR.EST.QVAE.VIXIT.ANN.XXVII.M.X.DIEXIII.IVL.PARTHENOPE.POSVIT.INFELIXMATER.

"OGrief!whattearshavewateredthistombofJuliaLucinawhoinlifewas

verydeartohermother.Carriedoffintheflowerofherage,hereshelies,buriedinthismarbletomb.Wouldthatherspiritmightberestored,thatshemightlearnhowgreatismygrief.Shelivedtwenty-sevenyears,tenmonths,andthirteendays.JuliaParthenope,herunhappymother,raisedthis."

4.

HYDRIAETERTVLLAEC.F.CONIVGI.AMANTISSI



MAEETAXIAEOELIANAE.FILIAEDVLCISSIMAE.TERENTIVSMVSEVSHOCSEPVLCRVMPOSVIT.

"TerentiusMusaeusplacedthistohismostlovingwife,HydriaTertulla,andtohismostsweetdaughter,AxiaOeliana."Onthisisachildwithacockinhand,anoblationtotheinfernaldeities.

5.

F.MARIO.MF.MARINO.EXS.TESTAMENTO.

Observeinthis,asinNo.3,thequeerspelling,inbothphonetic:--HIQ,SAXOO,EXS.

6.HereisaChristianinscription:--

INTEGER.ATQVE.PIVS.VITA.ET.CORPORE.PVRVS.AETERNO.HIC.POSITVS.VIVIT.CONCORDIVS.AEVO.QVI.TENERIS.PRIMVM.MINISTER.FVLSIT.

IN.ANNIS.POST.ETIAM.LECTVS.COELESTI.LEGE.SACERDOSTRIGINTA.ETGEMINOS.DECEM.VIX.REDDIDIT.ANNOS.HVNC.CITO.SIDEREAM.RAPTVM.OMNIPOTENTIS.INAVLAMMATER.BLANDA.ET.FRATER.SINEFVNEREQVAERVNT.

"Intactandpious,pureinlifeandbody,hereliesburied,buteternallylivesConcordius,whoinhistenderyearsshonefirstasadeacon,afterwardschosenbythecelestiallawapriest;helivedhardlyfiftyyears.TransportedtoosoontothestarryhalloftheAlmighty,hisgentle

motherandhisbrotherseekhimwithoutbewailinghim."

Thisisonasarcophagusofwhitemarblewithacolonnadecarvedontheface,thepillarschanneledandspiral.InthecentreisJesusChrist,seatedonathrone,instructingHisapostlesandacrowd,whichisseenthroughthearcade,attherightaman,ontheleftawoman,onthecoverarethetwelveapostleswithrolledvolumesbeforethem.Thissarcophagusbelongstothefourthcentury.

7.

PAXAETERNADVLCISSIMAE.ET.INNOCEN

TISSIM.FILLIAE.CHRYSOGONE.IVNIOR.SIRICIO.QVAE.VIX.ANN.III.M.II.DIEB.XXVII.VALERIVS.ET.CHRYSOGONE.PARENTES.FILLIAE.KARISSIMAE.ET.OMNI.TEMPORE.VITAE.SVE.DESIDERANTISS.M.A.E.

"Peaceeternaltothemostsweetandinnocentgirl,Chrysogone(theyounger)Siricio,wholivedthreeyears,threemonths,andtwenty-seven



days.ValeriusandChrysogone,herparents,raisedthismonumenttotheirmostdeardaughter,whomtheywillregretalltheirlives."

Theboneswerefoundinaleadencoffinenclosedinoneofstone.ThebodyofthelittleChrysogonehadbeenenvelopedinarichbrocadeofgoldthreadandsilk.

8.AcuriouscolumndedicatedbythegoodpeopleofArlestoFlaviusValeriusConstantinus(ConstantinetheGreat),sonofConstantius,longservedtheboatmenontheRhonetofastentheirvesselsto,anditissadlyfurrowedbythechainsandcordssoemployed.Itbearstheinscription:--

IMP.CAES.FL.VAL.CONSTANTINOP.F.AVG.DIVICONSTANTI.AVG.RII.FILIO.

ConstantiusChorusalsoborethenamesofFlaviusValerius.

B.--THECAMPAIGNOFMARIUS.

Fordeterminingthisthefollowingpointsmustbesettled:--

I._Wherewashiscamp?_

TofixthepositionofhiscampwemustseewherehecouldbestwatchthebarbarianscrosstheRhone,insuchaplaceashewouldhavehisrearcovered,andwherehecouldkeepopenhiscommunicationswithRome,andreceivebothreinforcementsandvictuals.

NowthereisabsolutelynopointthatanswerstheserequirementslikeS.Gabriel.ItwascertainthatthebarbarianswouldnotcrossatArles,fortheycouldnotadvancethencesouthofthechainofLesAlpines,owingtothelagoonsandmorasses,andthedesertoftheGreatCrau.TheymustcrossbelowAvignonandatoraboveTarascon.Now,astheywouldalmostcertainlymarchalongthehightable-landthatextendsfromMontpellierbyNimestoBeaucaire,andnotwadethroughthemarshesbelowthesehills,theywould

arrivewithdryfeetatBeaucaire,andthere,naturallywouldcrossandfollowupthevalleyoftheDurance.S.Gabrielwasanaturalwatch-tower,whenceMariuscouldobservethem.ItisanancientRomansettlement.NumerousRomanremainshavebeenfoundthere.Mariushadbuttomounttheheightsbehindthelittletown,andhecommandedallthecountrytothenorth-westandsouthforavastdistance.Then,again,bymeansofhiscanal,connectingthelagoons,hewasabletobringshipswithsuppliesunderhiswalls.HiscanalopenedoutoftheEtangdeGalejon,withastationatFos,notattheexactentranceofthecanal,whichwaslowandmarshy,butattheentranceofthechannelofMartiguesthatopensintotheEtangdeBerre.ThroughGalejonitrannorth,cuttingthroughachainoflagoons,passedunderMontMajeurtoS.Gabriel,andthereprobablyreceivedthewaters,theoverspilloftheDurance,aboveChateauRenard.

PlutarchsaysthatitwasconnectedwiththeRhone,butthiswasprobablyanerror.ItscoursetoS.GabrielremainedinuseandfallingintodecayintheMiddleAgesastheCanaldesLonnes.BetweenS.GabrielandtheEtangdeGalejonitcouldalsobetraced,andborethenameofLeVigueirat.ThiscanalofMariuswasperfectlyprotectedfromthebarbariansbythemorassesthatintervenedbetweenitandtheRhone.

II._Todeterminehismarch._

Theoldpre-RomanroadfromNimestoAixcertainlyfollowedthehighand



drygroundtoTarascon,thencetracedupthevalleyoftheDurance.Itcouldnolongerfollowthehighground,asthatisbrokenintolimestonepeaks,butitfolloweduptheriverbelowthem,carriedabovetherubbleoftheDurance.ThefirststationafterTarasconwasGlanum,nowS.Remi.ThenitwenttoOrgon,whereittouchedtheDuranceforthefirsttime,andwhencebranchedtheroadstoItaly--onebyMontGenevre,theotherbyAixandthecoast.IsupposethatMarius,followingthebarbarians,heontheheights,theyinthevalley,observedthedirectiontheytooktorightortoleft,fromtheprecipitouscragsofOrgon.ItmustberememberedthatMariushadanarmymadeupofdemoralisedsoldiers,whohadescapedfromdefeatbythebarbarians,andofrawlevies,andallwereindeadlyfearoftheirsavagefoes,sothathedarenotbringthemtoapitchedbattletilltheyhadbecomeaccustomedtothesightoftheTeutonsandAmbrons,andwerethemselvesimpatienttocometoblowswiththem.

ThehostofinvadersturnedsouthtowardsAix.Mariuspursued:therecan,Ithink,belittlequestionthathepursuedthesametactics,exchangingasandstonerangeforoneoflimestone,andfollowingthemsteadilystepbystep,keepingtheheights.

Now,ifthecampofMariuswasatS.Gabriel,andiftheTeutonsmarcheduptheDurancevalleytoOrgon,andthenturnedtoAix,then,itseemedtome,onthespot,thatnoonesaveanidiotincommandoftheRomansoldierscouldhavedoneanythingelsethanstrikeforthesandstoneridgeandmarch

alongthat,stillobservingtheenemy.

AnothertheoryrelativetotheRomanroadisthatitransouthofthechainofLesAlpines.ThiswouldnotmatterforthecourseofMarius,butwouldexplainthefactofthemonumentofMariusbeingfoundatLesBaux;andLesBauxwouldthenbethecliffwhencehewatchedthemarchofthebarbarians.

III._Todeterminethepositionofthebattles._

Plutarchdoesnotdistinguishbetweensites.Hesaysthatthereweretwobattlesseparatedfromoneanotherbytwodays,andthatinthefirstMariusdefeatedtheAmbrons.InthesecondhedefeatedtheTeutons.Heleavesustoinferthatbothbattleswerefoughtonthesamefield.But

therearedifficultiesinsupposingthis.

1.ThefieldofPourrieresdoesnotanswerthedescriptionofthefirstbattlesite;itdoesthatofthesecond.

2.TheAmbronsalonewereengagedinthefirstbattle,andnoTeutonscametotheirhelp.Wemaythereforefairlysupposethatthetwogreatbodiesofbarbarianinvadershadseparated.3.Therewasaverytemptingbait,Marseilleslyingtothesouth,invitingattackandpillage.

FollowingM.GillesinhismonographonthecampaignofMarius,IbelievethatthefirstbattlewasfoughtatLesMilles,thefirststationoutofAixontheMarseillesroad,andthattheAmbronshadpartedcompanywith

theTeutonssoastotrytheirluckwithMarseilles,orperhapsonlysoastoravagethecoast,iftheycouldmakenoimpressiononawalledcity.

Now,thesandstoneridgealongwhichMariusandhisarmyweremarching,asIsuppose,endsabruptlyaboveLesMilles.BelowflowstheriverAre,makingaloopinwhichisarichgreenmeadow,andunderthehilloozeoutcountlessrillsofwater.Indeed,thebottomofthehillisdensewithiriseslovingtheslushypercolatedsoil.Thereisnowateronthesandstoneheights.Here,ifIamright,MariuscameoutandsawtheAmbronsbelow,andwantedtoformhiscamp,butwasdeterredbyanengagementbeing



begunbythewater-carriersofthecampgoingdowntotheriverandspringswiththeirpails,andbeingattackedbytheAmbrons.Aixliesawaytothenorthinabroadbasin,andatsomelittledistance,twokilos.,fromtheriver.Thebattlecouldnothavehappenedthere.ThereisnootherplacesaveLesMilleswherewehavehill,river,greenplainandspringstogether,asinPlutarch'snarrative.LetusthensupposethatMariusfoughtthefirstbattleatLesMillesandtheredefeatedtheAmbrons.ThosenotslainwouldflyalongtheAurelianroadthatleadsfromAixthroughtheplainofPourrieres,crossesalow_col_,andentersthevalleyoftheArgens,andleadstoFrejus,whereIsupposeTeutonsandAmbronsdesignedtomeetagain,andpursuetheircoursewestwardtogether.InthemeantimetheTeutonshadbeenadvancinguptheArevalleyalongtheAurelianway.AmileandahalfoutofAixtheyreachedtheAre,fivemilesaboveLesMilles,andthencefolloweduptheriverforthreemiles,whentheyleftit.Theirroadnowlaydueeastbeforethem,acrossthealmostlevelplainofPourrieres,belowthelimestoneprecipicetothenorthofMontVictoire.Butthereisacuriousformationhere.SouthofMontVictoireisasemicircularsandstonechain,inferiorinheight,precipitoustowardstheplain,calledLeCengle,"theBelt,"dyingintothelimestonemountainatthepointwherethelatterattainsitsgreatestaltitude,abovethevillageofPuyloubier.ThissandstonegirdleslopeseasilyinwardtotheprecipiceofMontVictoire,anditsrillsflowtogetherintoalittlestreamthatreachestheAreatthepointwheretheAurelianroadleftit,_i.e._sevenandahalfmilesfromAix.

M.GillessupposesthatMariusfollowedontheheelsoftheflyingAmbronsalongtheAurelianway,andthathedetachedMarcellusatthispointtogoupthislittlestreambehindtheCengleandcomeoutfarthereastsoastogainPaindeMunition.

Idonotthinkthisistenable,forthereisalongtractofbarehill-slopebetweentheextremityoftheCingleandtheconicalfortifiedhillofPaindeMunition,andevenifMarcelluswereconcealedwhilstascendingthislittlelateralvalley,hewouldemergeinfullviewofthebarbariansforthelastfiveorsixmilesofhismarch.MybeliefisthatMarcelluswasdespatchedupthevalleyoftheInfernet,behindMontVictoire,bywhichmeanshismarchwouldbeconcealedthroughout,norwould

itbemuchlonger.

Also,IdonotthinkthatMariuspursuedtheTeutonsthewholewayalongtheroad.AccordingtoPlutarch'saccount,thesecondtimehecameonthemsoastocausethemsurprise.Again,ifhehadpursuedacertainplanuptothefirstengagement,andithadsucceeded,itislikelythathewouldfollowthesameplanuptothesecondandfinalengagement.Nowhithertohehadkepttohighgroundalwaystothesouthoftheadvancinghorde.FromLesMillesheveryprobably,asIthink,onlyfollowedthetracesoftheflyingAmbronsalongtheroadtillhestrucktheAreintheopenplainofPourrieres,andthenatoncecrossedtothesouthbankoftheriver,andmarchedalongongroundthatslopesuptothesouth,sothathehadtheriverbetweenhimandtheenemy.If,asisprobable,thishill-slope,along

whichtherailnowruns,wasthen,morethannow,densewithbroomandpine,hismarchwouldnotbeseenbytheenemy.AndsoIconcludeMariusbyaforcedmarchreachedTrets.Then,asIhavesaidinmytext,hehadtheenemyinatrap.BehindthemwasthefortifiedcampofPaindeMunitionintowhichhehadthrownMarcellus,andbehindhimhehadthechainofMontAurelienandMontOlympe,withanotherfortifiedcamp.Betweenhimandtheenemywasaslope,andthiswascutbystreamsthathadtorntheirwaythroughafriablemarlysoil.Moreover,hehadanaturalscreenofrockbetweenhimandtheenemy,withthelowfacetowardshim,andaneasyslopetowardsthebarbarians.



TheactualsiteofthecampoftheTeutonsisfixedwithoutverymuchdoubt.Theywouldcertainlycampinthefirstavailablesituationnearwater.Nowtheyhadbeenmarchingforfivemileswithoutwater,andonreachingtheAreatthestationTegulata,theyfoundanadmirablesite,threetoftsofdrylevelsandstoneapparentlymadefortheirpurpose.Moreover,oppositethemistheruinofthemonumentofMarius.AbouttheruintheremighthavebeendoubtswhetheritwasRoman,andwhetheritreferredtothevictory,butforthediscoverythereofthestatueofVenusVictrix,whichsetsthatquestionatrestforever.

M.Gillessupposesthatthebattlewasfoughtalongtheroad,whentheTeutonssawMariusovertaketheminpursuit,andthatitbeganatapointaboutamileduewest,atLeLogisNeuf.Ifithadbeenso,thensurelythemonumentwouldhavebeenonthewestsideofTegulata,andnorthoftheAre.ThetraditionthatitragedfromnorthtosouthbetweenthebridgeandTretsisonlyofvaluefromitsbeingbasedonthemassesofweapons,bronzeandflint,foundonthesouthsideoftheriver,andnotonthenorth.

Thereissomethingtootobesaidforwhatcommonsensewouldpointout.StandingontheredsandstonehillaboveLesMilles,andlookingatAix,andawayeast,onetriestoimaginethebarbarianhordesmarchingalongtheAurelianway;andthenoneasks,"NowhadItofightthem,whatwould

Ido?"TheanswerIgavetomyselfwas,"CommonsensebidsmemakewithforcedmarchesawaytoTrets,keepingmyflankprotectedbytheriver,andsurprisethemagain."Iamnotageneral--butitappearedtomethatitwouldbehardforanyoneonthespotinthepositionofMarius,ifhehadhiswitsabouthim,nottoseethatthebarbarianshadgivenhimasplendidchance,andthathemustcatchit,andtakethemunawareswhentheyhadsteppedintohisnet.

C.--THEUTRICULARES.

Therearetwenty-threeinscriptionsrelativetotheCollegesofUtricularesinProvence.M.Lenthericgivesfiveintheappendixtohisvolume,'Les

VillesMortesduGolfedeLyon,'andnineteeninthattohisvolume'LeGreceetl'OrientenProvence,'butoftheseoneisfromTemesvarinHungary.

ThenM.Gilles,inhis'CampagnedeMarius,'engravesamedaloftheGuildofUtricularesofCabelio(Cavaillon),whichisnowintheCabinetofMedalsatParis.Itwasfoundonthehill-slopesoftheLuberon.Ontheobverseitbearsarepresentationofaninflatedskinofabeast(acalf?);ontheothersidetheinscription--

_Colle(gium)utri(culariorum)Cab(ellionensis)L(ucius)Valer(ius)succes(sor)._

Iwillgiveafewoftheinscriptionsonstones.

1._D.M.G.Paqui,Optatilib(erti)Pardalae,sextum(viri)Aug(ustalis)col(oniae)Ju(liae)Pat(ernae)Ar(elatensis)patron(i)ejusdemcorpor(is),itempatron(i)fabror(um)naval(ium),utricular(iorum)etcentena(riorum)C.PaquiusEpigonuscumliberissuispatronooptimemerito._

"TothemanesofG.PaquiusPardalas,freedmanofOptatus,sevirAugustaloftheColonyofJuliaPaternaofArles,patronofthesamebody,andalsopatronoftheshipbuilders,oftheutriculares,andofthecentenares.C.



PaquiusEpigoniusandhischildrentoawell-deservingpatron."

ThiswasfoundundertheporchofS.CaesariusatArles.TheCentenariiwerethemenwhomadethepatchworkbedsthatcoveredtowersandwallsinwarasaprotectionagainsttheramandagainstfire.

2._D.M.L(ucio)Secundiaeleutherianavicular(io)Arel(atensi)itemsevir(o)Aug(ustali)corpor(ato)c(oloniae)J(uliae)P(aternae)A(relatensis)secundiaTatianafil(ia)patripientissim(o)._

"TothemanesofLuciusSecundiusEleutherius,boatmanofArles,andAugustalsevir,incorporatedinthecolonyofJuliaPaternaofArles.SecundiaTatiana,hisdaughter,tothemosttenderoffathers."

FoundonthebanksoftheRhone,atArles.

3._D.M.M(arco)JunioMessanio,utricul(ario)corp(orato)Arelat(ensi),ejusd(em)corp(oris)mag(istro)quater,fi(lio),quivixitann(os)octoetvigintimensesquinque,diesdecem,JuniaValeria._

"Tothemanes.ToMarcusJuniusMessianusofthecorporationoftheutricularesofArles,fourtimespresidentofthesame;JuniaValeriatoherson,whodiedattheageoftwenty-eightyears,fivemonths,andtendays."

ThisisonastonesarcophagusinthemuseumatArles.

4._M(arco)FrontoniEupori,sevir(o)Aug(ustali)col(oniae)Julia(e)Aug(ustae)AquisSextis,navicular(io)Mar(ino)Are(late)Curat(ori)ejusd(em)corp(oris)patrononautar(um)Druen(ticorum)etutricularior(um)corp(oratorum)Ernaginensium.JuliaNiceuxorconjugicarissimo_.

"ToMarcusFrontoEupor,AugustalseviroftheColonyofJuliaAugustaatAix,marinerofArles,curatorofthesaidcorporation,patronofthecorporationsofthemarinersoftheDuranceandoftheutricularesofErnaginum.JuliaNicetoherdearesthusband."

FoundinthechurchofS.Gabriel(Ernaginum).

FINIS.

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Baring Gould in Troubadour Land

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