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West Country

ClimbsMark Glaister

A rock climbing guidebook to the best climbs in the West Country of England

Text, computer artwork, layout, topos and editing by Mark Glaister, Stephen Horne and Alan James

All uncredited photos by Mark GlaisterOriginal ROCKFAX design Mick Ryan and Alan James

Printed by John Browns Printers, Nottingham Distributed by Cordee (www.cordee.co.uk)

All maps by ROCKFAX

Published by ROCKFAX Ltd. July 2010© ROCKFAX Ltd. 2010

www.rockfax.com

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,

mechanical, photocopying or otherwise without prior written permission of the copyright owner. A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978 1 873341 37 7

Cover photo: Rich and Sam Mayfield on Solid Air (VS 4b) - page 126 - at Gull Rock, one of the Culm Coast's many isolated sea-cliffs.

This page: The steep and exposed Incubus (E1 5b) - page 367 - on the grossly overhanging Sanctuary Wall, Torquay, Devon. Climbers: Marti Hallett and Helen Dudley.

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3 ContentsIntroduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 Guidebooks. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Advertiser Directory . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10

West Country Logistics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Camping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Walls and Shops. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Pubs and Cafes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20

West Country Climbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Access . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Fixed Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28 Grades . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Tides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Crag Table 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Crag Table 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 Graded List and Top 50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

Avon and Somerset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 Avon Gorge. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Portishead. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70 Split Rock Quarry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 Uphill Quarry. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76 Brean Down . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78 Cheddar Gorge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 84

North Devon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Baggy Point. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92 Lundy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102

The Culm Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108 Blackchurch. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110 Smoothlands and Dyer's Lookout . . . . . . . .114 Screda Point and Speke's Mill Mouth . . . . 120 Gull Rock and Cornakey Cliff . . . . . . . . . . 124 Vicarage Cliff and Oldwalls' Point . . . . . . . 130 Lower Sharpnose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136 Compass Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 144

Inland Cornwall. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 150 Cheesewring Quarry. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152 The Devil's Jump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 Roche Rock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159

The Atlantic Coast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164 Tintagel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 166 Doyden Point. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 170 Pentire Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 172 Carn Gowla. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 176

West Penwith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 186 Zennor Cliff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188 Gurnard's Head. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 190 Carn Gloose and Robin's Rocks. . . . . . . . 194 Bosigran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198 Great Zawn and Bosigran Ridge . . . . . . . 212 Kenidjack. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 220 Sennen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 Land's End . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Pordenack Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Carn Les Boel and Zawn Kellys . . . . . . . . 242 Carn Barra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246 Fox Promontory. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Chair Ladder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256 Porthgwarra and St. Levan Area. . . . . . . . 266 Cribba Head, St. Loy and Tater Du . . . . . . 272

The Lizard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280 Trewavas Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282 Lizard Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286

Inland Devon and Dartmoor . . . . . . . . . . . 298 Chudleigh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300 Torbryan Quarry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310 Haytor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314 Hound Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320 Bench Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324 Sheeps Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326 The Dewerstone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330

Torbay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 342 Berry Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 344 Daddyhole. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 354 Anstey's Cove and Long Quarry Point . . . 360

Dorset . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 370 Portland. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374 Swanage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390

Route Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 418General Index and Area Map . . . . . . . . . . . 424

Photo: Steve Crowe nearing the finish of Break on Through (E4 5c) - page 142 - Lower Sharpnose, Cornwall. Photo: Dave Pickford

West Country Climbs is a selective guide to the finest rock climbing in Cornwall, Devon, Dorset, Somerset and Avon in western England. The area has hundreds of fantastic routes of all grades and styles, on a variety of rock types, and these are presented here in one concise guidebook.

For many climbers, the golden granite sea cliffs of Cornwall will be considered the jewel in the West Country’s crown, however there are many more outstanding climbing destinations on offer. The broad choice ranges from the dark lava and culm of the north coast of Devon and Cornwall, to the granite of Bodmin and Dartmoor and to the lighter limestone of Torbay, the Avon Gorge, Somerset and Dorset. Whatever grade of climb, and whatever preferred style of climbing is sought, the West Country caters for all options - long, adventurous climbs on remote sea cliffs, modern sport climbs above the beach, short bouldery routes on granite tors, and everything in between.

Mid-grade traditional classics on perfect granite? - West Penwith. Huge, committing sea cliff adventures? - The Atlantic and Culm coast. Sunny, limestone sport routes? - Portland, Brean Down and Torquay. Exhilarating sea-cliff trad climbs with a holiday ambience? - Berry Head and Swanage. Technical sport and trad routes on moorland granite? - Dartmoor and Inland Cornwall. Rural, or ultra-urban climbing? - The Dewerstone and Chudleigh or the Avon Gorge.

West Country Climbs brings all of these cliffs and their climbs alive with clear approach information, huge photo-topos, detailed route descriptions and inspiring action photography.

But it's not all about the climbing. The West Country is one of Europe’s most enchanting corners. Its rugged coastline, wind-swept moors, traditional rural pubs, gorgeous beaches and picturesque villages make any visit an unforgettable experience, but when combined with the excellence of the climbs on offer and a bit of decent weather it is without a doubt one of the finest places to climb anywhere.

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4 Introduction

Alex Mason on the Great Zawn gem Green Cormorant Face (E2 5c) - page 216 - at Bosigran, West Penwith. Photo: Duncan Skelton/Offwidth Images

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5 Introduction

This GuidebookThis 2010 first edition of West Country Climbs is a selective guidebook that details the prime rock climbs of the major cliffs in the West Country. In general, only the best routes on the best cliffs are described, although on some buttresses (mainly the sport crags) all the lines are described to avoid confusion where many lines exist on uniform looking faces. In total there are 884 routes described in detail which will be more than enough to keep the majority of climbers happy for a lifetime's worth of visits. Route Lines - The photo-topos in this book are large and detailed. These qualities enable the route lines to be seen very clearly, showing intricate detail of where the routes go. Great care has been taken when adding the route lines but it is inevitable that some may not be exactly right, especially on the more obscure routes and on routes where there is no precise line. If unsure then use personal judgement to pick out a line, and let us know of any discrepancies by commenting on the Rockfax Route Database (www.rockfax.com).

Other GuidebooksThere are thousands of routes in the West Country which are not covered in this book. The Rockfax guidebook to Dorset covers all the routes in the last section of this book. For bouldering information have a look at Dave Henderson's excellent website - www.javu.co.uk. For other areas consult the books from the following:The Climbers' Club - www.climbers-club.co.ukCordee - www.cordee.co.ukCheddar Gorge and Caves - www.thegorgeoutdoors.co.uk

The information that is included in this guidebook has been gathered together over my climbing life, distilled and built upon to produce the guidebook that you now have in your hands. My guidebook shelf charts my association with climbing in the West Country - having been born in Devon my first steps were guided by the contents of Tony Moulam and Pat Littlejohn's West Col guides to Dartmoor and South Devon, whilst forays further afield were initially inspired by Richard Crewe's early Dorset guidebook and the Climbers' Club North and South guides to West Penwith. I can also vividly remember my first sighting of Pat Littlejohn's - hot off the press - first edition of South West Climbs in the back of a Morris Marina in Exeter and immediately being driven away by the books owner to sample one of its revelations on Devon's North Coast. In more recent times Nick White's South Devon tome, Rowland Edwards' and Tim Dennell's Cornish Rock, Sean Hawken's South East Cornwall Guide, the Climbers' Club series of guides to Lundy, Cornwall, North Devon and Avon and Cheddar plus Pete Oxley's early Portland guides have all inspired and guided me around the many superb cliffs and crags of the West Country. Other information has come from magazines, many conversations with other climbers and there has been a huge amount of feedback submitted to the Rockfax Route Database (www.rockfax.com) and the UKClimbing.com Logbook system (www.ukclimbing.com).

I would like to acknowledge the effort put in by all those who have worked on documenting the climbing in the West Country over the years. The West Country is a huge area with complex access where quick and easy research is hampered by the difficulties of viewing many of the routes properly, except from the sea. It is an impossible task to document everything with 100% accuracy, but hopefully this guidebook can at least record routes in a way that inspires those who want to explore some of the lesser known parts of the West Country, and provide good information for those who want to climb the classics.

Mark Glaister, June 2010

Guidebook FootnoteThe inclusion of a climbing area in this guidebook does not mean that you have a right of access or the right to climb upon it. The descrip-tions of routes within this guide are recorded for historical reasons only and no reliance should be placed on the accuracy of the descrip-tion. The grades set in this guide are a fair assessment of the difficulty of the climbs. Climbers who attempt a route of a particular standard should use their own judgment as to whether they are proficient enough to tackle that route. This book is not a substitute for experience and proper judgment. The authors, publisher and distributors of this book do not recognise any liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from such persons seeking reliance on this guidebook as an assurance for their own safety.

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6 Introduction

Max Bonniot on Pyjamarama (E4 6b) - page 236 - at Longships Wall, Land's End. Photo: Rob Gibson

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7 Introduction

Having climbed in the West Country since I was a young teenager it is impossible to thank all those who I have climbed with on the routes included in this guidebook - so it will have to suffice to say that without your company the experiences would have been far less memorable and fun.

Many people have helped me compile this book, their help ranging from posing for pictures and checking lines, to proof reading and providing route descriptions – Gordon Jenkin, Ray Mardon, John Warner, Carrie Hill, Marti Hallett, Anna Rayner, Paul Cox, Bev Connor, Rob Knight, Lee Proctor, Jonny Aylwin, Tom Skelhon, Dave Henderson, Brian Wilkinson, Bruce Woodley, Rich White, Rob Kennard, Mark Tomlinson, Rich Mayfield, Sam Mayfield, Ken Palmer, Pete Saunders, Barney Carver, Dave Pickford, Chris Savage, Dave Turnbull, Emma Medara, Stu Bradbury, Dave Johnson, Rob Byrom, Caz Neely. Iain Peters, Pat Littlejohn, Frank Cannings, Nick Hancock, Darren Russell, Toby Keep, Neil Foster, Duncan Critchley, Alison Martindale, Bridget Collier, Phil Black, Paul Carling, Wilf and Jane Williamson, Bill Birkett, Mikey Robertson, Steve Thorpe, Trev Ford, James Forbes, Martin Cathrow, Shane Ohly, Chad Harrison, Dave Hope, Rob Greenwood, Adrian Berry, Ben Hall, Chris Sims, Gavin Symonds, Danie Rushmer, Rich Kirby, Sue Hazel, Helen Dudley, Jack Geldard, Guy Blackwood, Martin Perry, Andy Long, Al Ashmore, Neal and Helen Heanes, Mick Ward, Steve Watt, Steve Taylor - without all of your help the book would never have seen the light of day.

A special thanks to the fishermen, and women, especially Richard Cook and David Bliss, who I managed to cajole in to taking me around some of the wilder sections of the West Country’s coastline.

A huge amount of appreciation to those who supplied the stunning action photographs - Bev Connor, Dave Pickford, Carrie Hill, Grant Farquhar, Dave Johnson, Pete Saunders, Nick Hancock, Adrian Berry, Ian Parnell, Tobi Carver, Chris Sims, Virgil Scott, Sam Mayfield, Bridget Collier, Ian Wilson, Alex Ekins, Sean Kelly, Martin Perry, Nick Arding, Mike Robertson, Sue Hazel, Mark Davies, Rob Gibson, Duncan Skelton.

Much of my climbing life, especially in the early days, has been inspired and influenced to a large degree by the various rock climbing guidebooks to the West Country and to all those authors I owe a huge amount of gratitude.

It's been a long haul this one, and I owe a massive thanks to the team at UKC/Rockfax - Alan, Stephen, Chris, Sherri, Mick and Jack for all their hard work and encouragement along the way.

Mark Glaister, June 2010

Photo: Bridget Collier

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8 Acknowledgments

Barry Durston nearing the end of the crux-pitch of the super steep Guernica (E6 6a) - page 178 - at Carn Gowla. Photo: Ian Parnell

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9 Acknowledgments

Equipment Manufacturers

Black Diamond - Outside back coverTel: 01629 580484www.blackdiamondequipment.com

Entre Prises - Page 27Kelbrook, Lancashire. Tel: 01282 444800www.ep-uk.com

Climbing Walls

Awesome Walls - Page 2 St. Alban’s Church, Liverpool. Tel: 01512 982422The Engine House, Stockport. Tel: 0161 494 9949Sefton Road, Stoke-on-Trent. Tel: 01782 341919www.awesomewalls.co.uk

Barn Climbing Centre - Inside back coverMilton Abbot, Tavistock. Tel: 01822 870521www.barnclimbingwall.co.uk

Boulders - Page 33Pengam Road, Cardiff. Tel: 0845 52 118 50www.bouldersclimbingcentre.co.uk

Dartrock - Page 19Old Totnes Road, Buckfastleigh. Tel: 01364 644 499www.dartrock.co.uk

The Climbing Academy - Page 25Charlton Street, Bristol. Tel: 0117 907 2956www.theclimbingacademy.com

Undercover Rock - Page 17Mina Road, Bristol. Tel: 01179 413489www.undercover-rock.com

Shops

Taunton Leisure - Front coverEast Reach, Taunton. Tel: 01823 275121www.tauntonleisure.com

Rock On - Page 15Mile End, London. Tel: 0208 981 5066Craggy Island, Guildford. Tel: 01483 565635Redpoint, Birmingham. Tel: 01213 598709www.rockonclimbing.co.uk

Holidays / Guidance / Accommodation

Rock and Sun - Back cover flapMina Road, Bristol. Tel: 08456 864586www.rockandsun.com

Dartmoor Adventures - Page 31Dartmoor, Devon. Tel: 01752 690292www.dartmooradventures.co.uk Southwest Adventures - Page 21Bampton, Devon. Tel: 07870 451827www.southwestadventures.co.uk

3 Great Parks - Page 29Sea Barn Campsite. Tel: 01305 782218www.seabarnfarm.co.uk West Fleet Holiday Farm. Tel: 01305 782218www.westfleetholidays.co.uk Bagwell Farm Touring Park.Tel: 01305 782575www.bagwellfarm.co.uk

Wall-Crawler - Page 21 Welcombe, near Bude. Tel: 01288 331145www.wall-crawler.co.uk

The Orange House - Page 31Finestrat, Alicante, Spain. Tel: 01752 690292www.theorangehouse.co.uk

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10 Advertisers

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11 Advertisers

Midnight Express (E1 5b) - page 271 - at St. Levan's Wall, West Penwith. Photo: Paul Cox

West Country Logistics

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1212

An incoming tide hastens the retreat from the top of the Middle Fin at Lower Sharpnose on the Atlantic Coast in the late afternoon. Time to retreat to the pub.

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1313

In EmergencyDial 999 and ask for 'COASTGUARD'

They have knowledge of the climbing areas and routes and can co-ordinate any rescue efforts.

Mobile PhonesMobile phone coverage at many of the sea-cliffs in this guidebook is not good. There is often no signal at all at the base of many of the sea-cliffs and even at the top of the cliffs a strong signal can not be relied upon. This is especially the case on Lundy and the north coasts of Devon and Cornwall. Be prepared to seek out higher ground in an emergency. For those climbing on Portland it is worth checking where the signal is being picked up from as it is not uncommon that a French operators signal will be picked up if the phone is set to roaming mode. Mobile coverage is reasonable for all of the inland cliffs.

Tourist InformationFor help and information on all aspects of a visit to the West Country the tourist information centres and websites listed below are a good starting point. The major TICs, closest to the climbing, are listed.

Bristol - Anchor Road, Harbourside, Bristol, BS1 5DB Tel: 0906 711 2191Bideford - The Quay, Bideford, Devon, EX39 Tel: 01237 477676Bude - The Crescent, Bude, Cornwall, EX23 8LE Tel: 01288 354240Camelford - The Clease, Camelford, Cornwall, PL32 9PL Tel: 01840 212954St. Ives - Street-an-Pol, St Ives, Cornwall, TR26 Tel: 01736 796297Penzance - Station Road, Penzance, Cornwall, TR18 2NF Tel: 01736 362207Bodmin - Mount Folly Square, Bodmin, Cornwall, PL31 2DQ Tel: 01208 76616Torquay - Vaughan Parade, Torquay Devon, TQ2 5JG Tel: 01803 211211Swanage - Shore Road, Swanage, Dorset, BH19 1LB Tel: 01929 422885

www.visitbristol.co.ukwww.visitsomerset.co.ukwww.visitdevon.co.ukwww.visitcornwall.comwww.visit-dorset.com

Port Issac near Doyden Point and Pentire Head

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14 West Country Logistics

CampingCamping in pleasant surroundings near to many of the cliffs is one of the West Country’s great appeals. There are many camping options and the limited number of sites listed below is only a pointer to what is available. The West Country being the UK’s premier summer holiday destination is extremely busy at peak times and the larger campsites are expensive and also get fully booked well in advance. However, a drive out into the sticks, up onto the moors or along the remoter sections of coastal roads usually turns up a basic farm camping field or less well known site that are often cheaper and less busy. It is also worth remembering that many family campsites do not allow large and/or single sex groups.

Somerset and AvonCheddar Camp - Shipham, Nr. Cheddar. Tel: 01934 743 166 www.cheddarcamp.com

North Devon and LundyLundy Shore Office - Bideford, Devon. Tel: 01237 477779 www.lundyisland.co.ukStoke Barton Farm - Stoke, Hartland, Devon. Tel: 01237 441238 www.westcountry-camping.co.uk

North Cornwall and Bodmin MoorSouth Penquite Farm - Blisland, Bodmin, Cornwall. Tel: 01208 850491 www.southpenquite.co.uk

West and South CornwallTreen Campsite - Treen, Penzance, Cornwall. Tel: 01736 810273 www.treenfarmcampsite.co.uk Henry’s Campsite - The Lizard, Helston, Cornwall. Tel: 01326 290596 www.henryscampsite.co.uk

Torbay and DartmoorRunnage Campsite - Postbridge, Dartmoor. Tel: 01822 880222 www.runnagecampingbarns.co.uk

PortlandSea Barn Farm - Fleet, Weymouth, Dorset. Tel: 01305 782218 www.seabarnfarm.co.uk

SwanageActon Field - Langton Matravers, Swanage, Dorset. Tel: 01929 439424 www.actonfieldcampsite.co.ukTom's Field - Langton Matravers, Swanage, Dorset. Tel: 01929 427110 www.tomsfieldcamping.co.uk

Not CampingMany other options for self-catered accommodation near to the climbing are available. Two increasingly popular options are Camping Barns/Bunkhouses and Backpacker Hostels. The YHA also has flexible and very competitively priced accommodation www.yha.org.uk. B&B’s and holiday cottages are ubiquitous.

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16 West Country Logistics Camping

Climbing Walls (and Gear Shops)There are a number of climbing walls scattered sporadically around the West Country. Most of these walls have a reasonable stock of climbing gear as well.

Undercover Rock www.undercover-rock.comSt.Werburghs's Church, Mina RoadBristol. S2 9YT Tel: 0117 941 3489

See advert on page 17

The Climbing Academywww.theclimbingacademy.com

Charlton Street, Bristol. BS5 0FD Tel: 0117 907 2956See advert on page 25

Dart Rock Climbing Centre www.dartrock.co.uk Dart Mills, Old Totnes Road

Buckfastleigh. TQ11 ONF Tel: 01364 644499See advert opposite

The Barn Climbing Centrewww.barnclimbingwall.co.uk

Eastacott Barton, Milton Abbot. PL19 0QP Tel: 01822 870521See advert inside back cover

Rock and Rapid Adventure Centrewww.rockandrapidadventures.co.uk

Hacche Mill, South Moulton, Devon. Tel: 01984 623989

Climbing Gear ShopsThere are a number of specialist outdoor shops in the West Country but many of the cliffs, especially in Cornwall and North Devon, are not close to the shops so a bit of a drive will be required if the need for a visit arises.

Somerset and Avon

Taunton Leisure www.tauntonleisure.com38-42 Bedminster Parade, Bristol. BS3 4HS. Tel: 0117 9637640

Taunton Leisure www.tauntonleisure.com40 East Reach, Taunton. TA1 3ES. Tel: 01823 332987

See advert inside front cover

CaveClimb www.caveclimb.comCheddar Business Park, Cheddar. Tel: 01934 741623 Dick's Climbing www.dicksclimbing.co.uk26 West Street, Bristol. Tel: 0117 9555 243

The Gorge Outdoors www.thegorgeoutdoors.co.ukCheddar Gorge, Somerset. Tel: 01934 742 688

North Devon Rock and Rapid www.rockandrapid.co.ukHacche Mill, South Moulton. Tel: 01984 623 989

South Devon

Taunton Leisure www.tauntonleisure.com110 Fore Street, Exeter. EX4 3JF. Tel: 01392 410534

See advert inside front cover

Cotswold Outdoors www.cotswoldoutdoor.comDarts Farm, Topsham. Tel: 01392 878313

Cotswold Outdoors www.cotswoldoutdoor.comDrakes Circus, Plymouth. Tel: 01752 672024

Moorland Rambler www.moorland-rambler.co.uk148-149 Fore Street, Exeter. Tel: 01392 321065

Trail Venture www.trailventure.co.ukNorth Street, Ashburton. Tel: 01364 652522

Dorset Great Western Camping www.greatwesterncamping.co.ukHigh East Street, Dorchester. Tel: 01305 266800

Kayaking off Portland.

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18 West Country Logistics Walls and Shops

PubsBelow is a list of some of the West Country’s best pubs that are within a quick stroll or drive of the cliffs. Some have good beer and cider, some have great food, most have both.

The Coronation Tap - Handy for the Avon Gorge, just above the suspension bridge.Coxes Mill - Big bar at the entrance to Cheddar Gorge.The Thatch Inn - Lively pub in Croyde close to Baggy Point.The Old Smithy - Nice old pub at Welcombe village, handy for the Culm Coast.The Bush Inn - Good spot at Morwenstow, close to Sharpnose Point.The Port Garvene Inn - A pub in a quiet fishing cove. Good for Doyden Point and Pentire.The Tinner's Arms - An atmospheric pub in Zennor close to Bosigran and Gurnard's Head.The Logan Rock Inn - Good for south coast granite in the village of Treen.The Cadgwith Cove Inn - Lovely pub close to The Lizard and its beaches.The Meavy Inn - On Meavy village green close to the Dewerstone and Sheeps Tor.The Rugglestone - Great Dartmoor pub with a fine beer garden.The Berry Head Hotel - Great views across Torbay, close to The Old Redoubt.The Carey Arms - Close to Anstey’s Cove at Babbacombe Beach.The Cove House - Good spot to watch the sun go down after climbing on Portland.The Square and Compass - Popular haunt and convenient for the Swanage cliffs.

CafesIt is impossible to provide a guide for all the cafes and tearooms in the West Country since that would be a guidebook as thick as this one in itself. Suffice to say that a decent cafe or tearoom selling diet-busting cream teas or pasties is never more than a brief drive

Sundown over Lyme Bay from Chesil Beach, Dorset.

Photo: Dave Pickford

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20 West Country Logistics Pubs and Cafes

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22

West Country Climbing

Nor

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23

Steve Monks midway up the leaning corner of the classic Bosigran extreme Raven Wall (E3 5c) - page 203 . Photo: Dave Pickford

Access to the sea-cliffs and the inland crags, quarries and gorges covered in this guidebook is on the whole uncomplicated. There are few problems at most crags and this has been the case for many years.

The greatest restrictions on access to the cliffs are for the protection of bird nesting sites, these restrictions are seasonal and predominately on the sea-cliffs but also on some inland cliffs. All the relevant restrictions and their current durations are covered under the introductions to the venues affected. These restrictions may vary from year to year and new ones may be imposed, so it is important that a check on the BMCs Regional Access Database (RAD) site is made to get the latest up-to-date information available - www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcCrag. It is also good practice to keep an eye out for any signs and notices at the cliffs that may give new or updated information on the extent or duration of restrictions.

Access restrictions for environmental concerns are only in effect on a small number of cliffs, however many of the cliffs are in protected areas such as SSSIs and great care to minimise the impact of climbing must be made. Again reference to the BMCs RAD can be made to gain information on any current access restrictions.

A number of the cliffs are privately owned and great care must be taken not to damage relationships with landowners - one major climbing site which needs considerable care when planning a climbing visit is Cheddar Gorge (see page 84). In the majority of cases all that is required to ensure continued freedom of access to the cliffs, and to maintain good relations with landowners and stewards is a responsible approach and level of behaviour. This includes sticking to footpaths, not climbing over walls and fences, not lighting fires or leaving litter, parking considerately, keeping noise down, closing gates and not gardening routes excessively.

Freedom of access to climb is easily lost but far harder, if not impossible, to regain.

Should any access problems arise at the climbing sites covered in this guidebook please refer details to the BMC Access Officer, 177-179 Burton Road,West Didsbury, Manchester, M20 2BBwww.thebmc.co.uk

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24 West Country Climbing Access

RackThe basic UK traditional rack of wires, large nuts, cams, quickdraws, slings and double ropes is the very minimum requirement of equipment needed to climb the traditional routes in the West Country. It is difficult to generalise about how much to carry but on the limestone and culm routes wires will normally be required in larger numbers (maybe 3 sets or more) whilst on the granite lines cams and large nuts will be used more often, however there are exceptions so use your own judgement. On the sport routes 14 quickdraws is sufficient for virtually all the routes included in this book.

Climbing RopesThe normal practice for leading routes is to use double 50m x 9mm ropes. This allows the routes to be climbed with greatly reduced rope-drag than would be possible on a single rope as many climbs do not follow direct lines. For the sport climbs in this guidebook a single 60m rope will suffice, although one route - Infinite Gravity at Swanage - requires a longer one.Rope Buckets - One of the problems when at the sea-cliff bases can be keeping the rope dry and away from rock pools or the sea. A useful tool for routes with a hanging stance at the end of an abseil is a rope bucket. You can feed your twinned 9mm ropes into the bucket before you abseil down and clip the bucket onto the belay. If you have done it correctly then the ropes will feed easily out of the bucket as the leader climbs.

Abseil RopesAn abseil rope is essential to reach the base of many of the sea-cliffs and it is hardly ever possible to abseil on your climbing ropes due to the belays being set well back from the edge. A single rope of 50m is the minimum requirement but preferably 60m if you have one. Often when you arrive at the crag you may well find an ab rope in place. In such circumstances it is accepted practice to use ropes that are in place rather than clutter up belays with an extra rope.

Helmets and Loose RockMany routes have loose rock on them, especially on their final sections. Always wear a helmet since rock can be dislodged at any time, and always put an extra runner in before the last moves, no matter how easy it looks. Test every hold and be especially careful early in the season, or on days after heavy rain. When belaying keep out of the fall zone especially when the leader is finishing a pitch.

Other GearPrusik Loops - A prusik loop is useful for protecting you when you abseil and having 2 is invalu-able if you fall off when seconding or leading a steep route, although make sure you know how to use them if you suspect you might struggle - learning 'on the job' is not much fun! Prusik loops (or rope ascenders) should always be carried or left on the base of the abseil rope in case of emer-gency or failure on a route and an escape up the rope needs to be undertaken.Abseil Rope Protectors - These are useful for the cliff-top edges particularly if the rope runs over an abrasive edge or will be used for a lot of abseil traffic.

Abseiling in to Compass Point on the Culm Coast.

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26 West Country Climbing Gear

Fixed GearPegs - Over the years many of the routes throughout the West Country have been climbed using pegs for protection. On the sea-cliffs, due to accelerated corro-sion in the salty environment, most of these pegs should now be regarded as untrustworthy, this includes stainless steel pegs. Current thinking is for the use and replacement of pegs on the sea-cliffs in the West Country to be phased out. The highest profile route to see the effect of this thinking in this guidebook is the famous route Eroica at the incomparable Pentire Head. For many years Eroica was graded E2 with a point of aid from a blade peg. The peg corroded quickly (it was replaced at least once) and, although various solutions as to its possible long-term replacement were aired, its latest demise bought about a consensus that it should not be replaced. The route has now been climbed on a number of occa-sions without the peg and re-graded at E4. Therefore, even though many sea-cliff routes in this guidebook have pegs mentioned in their descriptions, a good deal of caution should be exercised when climbing these routes as some of the pegs mentioned in descrip-tions may have corroded away altogether or be in a very poor state - they will probably not be replaced.On the inland crags, pegs have also been used in abundance for protection, however they are less prone to corrosion and are often replaced. Nevertheless the same level of caution should be applied to the reliability of the pegs as even away from the sea-cliff environment corrosion is still fairly rapid. At Chudleigh great care should be taken to back-up the 'ring' style pegs. Threads - Fixed threads in the West Country are not common. Threads tend to be more accepted than pegs since they make use of natural features without damaging the rock, and they are more easily replaced. Care must still be taken to assess the state of the thread - pull it around so that you can examine all of it and leave a different section in the rock. If you decide to replace a thread, remove all the old ones since one brand new thread is a lot better than a few dodgy old ones.Bolts and Staple Bolts - Bolts are used extensively for protection on both sport and tradi-tional climbs in the West Country. On the sea-cliff sport climbs (covered in this guide) of Swanage, Portland, Anstey's Cove and Brean Down, marine-grade staples and bolts are used almost exclusively. On the inland crags and quarries, stainless steel bolts and staples are also widely used, however non-stainless steel bolts will also be encountered. As with pegs and threads always check the placement and state of the bolt before trusting your life to it. Abseil points - On a number of cliffs it is necessary to descend by abseil after completing a climb. If there is an abseil point in place - ALWAYS CHECK ITS RELIABILITY! Some abseil points were originally set up using pegs and many of these are now in a dangerous state. If in any doubt always back-up the abseil point.

A rotting old abseil station on the Culm Coast.

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28 West Country Climbing Fixed Gear

Chesil Beach looking towards Portland. Photo: Chris Craggs

The traditional routes in this book are graded using the British Traditional Grading system. The sport routes are graded using the French Sport Grading system.

British Trad Grade1) Adjectival grade (Diff, VDiff, Severe, Hard Severe (HS), Very Severe (VS), Hard Very Severe (HVS), E1 and upwards)How well-protected a route is, how sustained and a general indication of the level of diffi-culty of the whole route.2) Technical grade (4a, 4b, 4c,..... to 7b)The difficulty of the hardest single move.

Sport GradeThe sport routes in this book are graded using the familiar 'sport grade', or 'French grade' as it is often know. The overall difficulty of a route is rated on a scale in this guidebook from 4 to 8c+.

More information on grades: www.rockfax.com/publications/grades.html

Deep Water Solo GradesFour routes in this book are described as deep water solos. They have been given a British technical grade and an S grade within their descriptions. The simple S Grade consists of a 0, 1, 2 or 3. S0 gives relative safety, with S3 offering considerable possi-bility of injury in the event of a fall. The routes in this book that are described as deep water solos are all hard and a degree of experience is essential (and the ability to swim!) if you intend to climb them un-roped.

Colour CodingThe trad routes and sport routes are all given a colour-coded dot corresponding to a grade band.

Green Routes - Everything at grade Severe and under, and 4a+ and under for sport routes.Good routes to start out your climbing career on.

Orange Routes - HS to HVS inclusive, and 5 to 6a+ for sport routes. General ticking routes for those with more experience, a large range of excellent routes is available across this band.

Red Routes - E1 to E3 inclusive, and 6b to 7a for sport routes. For the experienced and keen climber. Anyone operating at this level can expect to enjoy some of the best climbing in the book.

Black Routes - E4 and above, and 7a+ and above for sport routes. The hard stuff! Have a go at some major national testpieces, plus you can do all the red, orange and green routes as well. Can't be better than that!

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30 West Country Climbing Grades

Tides are a crucial consideration when climbing on the sea-cliffs of the West Country since the access to, or escape from, many of the cliffs, is affected by the state of the tide. The West Country has huge differ-ences in tidal range that varies from one of the largest in the World on the North Devon and Culm Coast - with tides swings as big as 8 metres - to some very small swings at Swanage. Understanding more about tides can be a great help in making the most out of your visit.

About TidesThroughout one lunar month there are two spring or high-range tides, and two neap or low-range tides. Spring tides occur during the full and new moons, when the sun and moon are in line and the combined gravitational pull causes the highest tides, which then ebb to the lowest level. During spring tides the low tides will always fall towards the middle of the day. During the first and third quarters of the moon, when the sun’s and moon’s attractional forces are at right angles, we experience less extreme high and low tides. Neap tides will always be low at either end of the day with the high tide occurring in the middle. By knowing the current phase of the moon you can roughly work out what kinds of tide you are going to get. Local tide tables (displayed in local newspapers, and available from the Climbers' Club web site - www.climbers-club.co.uk) will give you precise times and levels of high and low tide. From high tide to low tide takes approximately 6 hours, which means that there are two high tides and two low tides in every 24 hour period. The average time for the tide to turn around is actually slightly longer than 6 hours. This means that each day the high and low tide times are between 30 and 80 minutes later than the previous day. The most dramatic spring tide swings range from a massive 8m (spring and autumn) to usually at least 6.5m (summer and winter), and neap tide swings range from around 2.5m (spring and autumn) to 4.5m (summer and winter). Along the south coast towards Swanage and Portland the tides have a significantly reduced range.

Important Considerations1) During the middle hours between low and high tide, the sea comes in MUCH faster and areas of flat rock and boulder beach can disappear rapidly so escape routes can be cut off. This means that you may have spent a few hours at the crag and not noticed much tide movement when suddenly there is water lapping around your ankles. This is significantly more pronounced during spring tides.2) The smaller fall to low neap tides may give much less access than low spring tides to certain cliffs. For example, The Blisterin' Barnacle Slab, the routes at Gurnard's Head, and the ledges at the base of The Amnesty Wall on The Lizard are either inaccessible or only barely uncovered during low neap tides. 3) The lower level of high neap tides may allow access to certain routes which are cut off in high spring tides.4) Persistent and strong onshore winds can prolong or even slightly raise high tide levels as can a high swell from some distant ocean storm.

Low tide at Bude's surf beach on the Culm Coast, Cornwall.

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32 West Country Climbing Tides

Atlantic Coast

Inland Cornwall

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Routes up to Sev HS to HVS E1 to E3 E4 and up Approach Sun Tides Abseil Restrictions Summary Page

Avon and Som

erset

Avon Gorge 68 933

23333

25333

11333 A0 to 15 min E C

1 wall only

A spectacular gorge in a noisy urban setting. Numerous lime-stone walls of up to 70m in height, some natural and others quarried. Lots of great climbs both single and multi-pitch.

44

Portishead Quarry 5 -7

433

-7

133 A5 min {

A good quarried face that gets plenty of morning sun with a small line-up of mid-grade trad lines. 70

Split Rock Quarry 8 -7

-7

333

533 A5 min {

The best of the Somerset quarries, and a good venue for teams operating in the mid to high-grades. The rock is superb and the climbing hard, but fairly well protected.

72

Brean Down and Uphill 22 -7

13

533

16333 A2 to 5 min R %

A popular beachside sport crag with some mid-grade and hard lines that get a lot of sun. Uphill Quarry has a trio of good fingery face-climbs.

76

ND Baggy Point 25 5

333

12333

6333

23 S25 min } % J C

1 wall only

A long-established slab climbing venue, close to a great surf-beach. Plenty of good single and multi-pitch climbs, with the bulk of the climbing in the mid grades.

92

Culm Coast

Blackchurch 8 -7

23

533

13 G25 min Y %

Blackchurch draws few climbers to it loose, shady and vegetated face, although for those in search of an adventure, the place might meet the brief.

110

Smoothlands to Dyer's 8 -7

13

333

4333 G15 to 25 min T %

The two most impressive sweeps of steep culm on the coast. The big lines are amongst the hardest in the West Country. 114

Screda Point 11 -7

43

633

13 F5 min R %

Easy access ensures that the routes at Screda Point get plenty of attention. The lines are predominantly in the mid-grades, and are tidal, although nearby Speke’s Mill is not.

120

Gull Rock and Cornakey 13 -7

733

533

133 F25 min E %

A great venue, although some of the routes are now more serious than they once were. Cornakey is home to a famous multi-pitch culm classic.

124

Vicarage and Oldwalls' 11 233

633

333

-7 F30 to 40 min E %

Vicarage Cliff is an excellent fin of culm with easy access and a number of good lower-grade lines. Oldwalls' Point is a large face of culm with a couple of intimidating cracklines on it.

130

Lower Sharpnose 21 -7

33

8333

10333 F35 min U % J

The Culm’s finest cliff. A unique set of three gravity-defying fins of rock with a host of mid and hard-grade classics on the faces of the fins. Sun and shade available.

136

Compass Point 6 23

333

133

-7 F10 min E %

A popular cliff, close to the busy beach at Bude. The rock needs careful handling, especially near the finishes of the climbs.

144Inland Cornw

all

Cheesewring Quarry 18 17

73

633

433 A13 min E

Cornwall’s premier inland crag. Best visited in dry and warm weather, as it is high on Bodmin Moor. Both trad and sport routes on solid quarried granite.

152

Roche Rockand Devil's Jump 10 4

33

433

17

13 A1 min E

Good crags for some lower-grade climbing. Both cliffs have good rock and are situated in interesting landscapes. 158

Atlantic Coast

Tintagel 3 -7

-7

-7

3333 F20 min R X

A big, well hidden cliff on the Island of Tintagel. The multi-pitch climbs here are amongst the most serious of their grades in the West Country. Permission required to climb.

166

Doyden Point 4 -7

13

233

13 S10 min R J

Close to the quaint fishing hamlet of Port Quin and has couple of popular climbs that pack a punch. 170

Pentire Head 6 -7

-7

-7

6333 F15 min T

Pentire’s Great Wall is the West Country’s finest face. All the routes are hard and brilliant. 172

Carn Gowla 14 17

23

7333

4333 A5 min U % J

One of the most remote and wild sections of coast in England. Big routes with committing approaches and serious climbing.

176

Quality and range of routes in different grade bands: 333 - Excellent 33 - Good 3 - Okay 7 - Not worth a visit Shaded means that only some of the routes are tidal / require an abseil / are restricted

34 Crag Table 1

Avon

Som

erse

tN

orth

Dev

onCu

lm C

oast

Inla

nd C

ornw

all

Atla

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Coa

stW

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enw

ithTh

e Li

zard

Inla

nd D

evon

Torb

ayD

orse

t

Routes up to Sev HS to HVS E1 to E3 E4 and up Approach Sun Tides Abseil Restrictions Summary Page

Avon and Som

erset

Avon Gorge 68 933

23333

25333

11333 A0 to 15 min E C

1 wall only

A spectacular gorge in a noisy urban setting. Numerous lime-stone walls of up to 70m in height, some natural and others quarried. Lots of great climbs both single and multi-pitch.

44

Portishead Quarry 5 -7

433

-7

133 A5 min {

A good quarried face that gets plenty of morning sun with a small line-up of mid-grade trad lines. 70

Split Rock Quarry 8 -7

-7

333

533 A5 min {

The best of the Somerset quarries, and a good venue for teams operating in the mid to high-grades. The rock is superb and the climbing hard, but fairly well protected.

72

Brean Down and Uphill 22 -7

13

533

16333 A2 to 5 min R %

A popular beachside sport crag with some mid-grade and hard lines that get a lot of sun. Uphill Quarry has a trio of good fingery face-climbs.

76

ND Baggy Point 25 5

333

12333

6333

23 S25 min } % J C

1 wall only

A long-established slab climbing venue, close to a great surf-beach. Plenty of good single and multi-pitch climbs, with the bulk of the climbing in the mid grades.

92

Culm Coast

Blackchurch 8 -7

23

533

13 G25 min Y %

Blackchurch draws few climbers to it loose, shady and vegetated face, although for those in search of an adventure, the place might meet the brief.

110

Smoothlands to Dyer's 8 -7

13

333

4333 G15 to 25 min T %

The two most impressive sweeps of steep culm on the coast. The big lines are amongst the hardest in the West Country. 114

Screda Point 11 -7

43

633

13 F5 min R %

Easy access ensures that the routes at Screda Point get plenty of attention. The lines are predominantly in the mid-grades, and are tidal, although nearby Speke’s Mill is not.

120

Gull Rock and Cornakey 13 -7

733

533

133 F25 min E %

A great venue, although some of the routes are now more serious than they once were. Cornakey is home to a famous multi-pitch culm classic.

124

Vicarage and Oldwalls' 11 233

633

333

-7 F30 to 40 min E %

Vicarage Cliff is an excellent fin of culm with easy access and a number of good lower-grade lines. Oldwalls' Point is a large face of culm with a couple of intimidating cracklines on it.

130

Lower Sharpnose 21 -7

33

8333

10333 F35 min U % J

The Culm’s finest cliff. A unique set of three gravity-defying fins of rock with a host of mid and hard-grade classics on the faces of the fins. Sun and shade available.

136

Compass Point 6 23

333

133

-7 F10 min E %

A popular cliff, close to the busy beach at Bude. The rock needs careful handling, especially near the finishes of the climbs.

144

Inland Cornwall

Cheesewring Quarry 18 17

73

633

433 A13 min E

Cornwall’s premier inland crag. Best visited in dry and warm weather, as it is high on Bodmin Moor. Both trad and sport routes on solid quarried granite.

152

Roche Rockand Devil's Jump 10 4

33

433

17

13 A1 min E

Good crags for some lower-grade climbing. Both cliffs have good rock and are situated in interesting landscapes. 158

Atlantic Coast

Tintagel 3 -7

-7

-7

3333 F20 min R X

A big, well hidden cliff on the Island of Tintagel. The multi-pitch climbs here are amongst the most serious of their grades in the West Country. Permission required to climb.

166

Doyden Point 4 -7

13

233

13 S10 min R J

Close to the quaint fishing hamlet of Port Quin and has couple of popular climbs that pack a punch. 170

Pentire Head 6 -7

-7

-7

6333 F15 min T

Pentire’s Great Wall is the West Country’s finest face. All the routes are hard and brilliant. 172

Carn Gowla 14 17

23

7333

4333 A5 min U % J

One of the most remote and wild sections of coast in England. Big routes with committing approaches and serious climbing.

176

Quality and range of routes in different grade bands: 333 - Excellent 33 - Good 3 - Okay 7 - Not worth a visit Shaded means that only some of the routes are tidal / require an abseil / are restricted

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Gurnard's Head AreaZennor, Gurnards, Carn Gloose, Robin's Rocks 10 -

7

433

5333

13 G15 to 25 min } % J

Three atmospheric tidal cliffs that can be combined in a single visit plus the nearby Zennor cliff if conditions are poor. The main three cliffs can retain dampness.

188

Bosigran 42 12333

13333

14333

3333 G10 min R J

Cornwall’s best known cliff set high above the sea with no tidal problems. Something for all - long, short, easy or hard. Also includes The Great Zawn and Bosigran Ridge areas.

198

Kenidjack 6 -7

333

333

-7 S20 min E J

Kenidjack’s shear looking killas slate face is a popular place that is sheltered, non-tidal and home to one of the finest HVSs on the coast.

220

Sennen 34 10333

17333

533

233 F12 min R %

An array of superb pitches on super-solid granite. The grade span is wide and the plentiful easier and mid-grade lines are some of the best on the coast.

224

Lands End and Pordenack 10 233

433

233

233 G5 to 15 min R % J

A complex area with some mixed quality granite but a number of good pitches and a great ridge route. Pordenack Point has better rock, is barely tidal and has some classic routes.

232

Carn Les Boel to FoxCarn les Boel, Zawn Kellys, Carn Barra, Fox Promontory 36 3

3

1733

1033

633 F10 to 25 min R % J

Carn Les Boel and Zawn Kellys are two remote and quiet cliffs with great atmosphere. Carn Barra is great for harder single pitch climbs. Fox Promontory is a quiet location.

242

Chair Ladder 17 4333

8333

5333

-7 S12 min } % J

A fantastic sea-cliff with superb low and mid-grade multi-pitch routes Can be frustrating to get perfect conditions, as the cliff is tidal and nesting birds are a big problem at times.

256

Porthgwarra to St. LevansPorthgwarra, Hella Point, Vessacks West, St. Levan's 12 4

33

433

433

-7 A5 to 20 min E % J

An often-overlooked section of the coast, with a number of worthwhile routes on a diverse set of crags. 266

Cribba Head to Tater DuCribba Head, St. Loy, Tater Du 14 -

7

433

333

733 F25 to 40 min E % J

A long strip of coastline that presents some diverse climbing styles and aesthetically interesting cliffs. 272

Lizard

Trewavas Head 7 23

433

13

-7 F20 min U

An increasingly popular crag, set high above the sea. Sheltered with some good pitches on granite. Can be combined with other crags at Lizard Point.

282

Lizard Point 26 933

933

533

333 F10 to 15 min E % J

A collection of dark sea-cliffs dotted around the UK mainland’s most southerly point. The climbs are excellent and in a superb location.

286

Inland Devon

Chudleigh 36 633

13333

12333

533 F5 min E

A very popular limestone cliff, set in the depths of rural Devon, but not too far from Dartmoor and Torbay. The climbs are all trad and up to four pitches long.

300

Torbryan Quarry 23 -7

-7

1333

1033 A4 min R

A small but excellent limestone sport crag. Takes a bit of finding, but the fine climbs are well worth the battle with the Devon rural roads.

310

Haytor and Hound Tor 36 1333

1033

933

433 S5 min U

Dartmoor's largest tor that is rarely quiet. Brilliant rock and routes. Hound Tor is a friendly venue with plenty of short, fun pitches.

314

Bench Tor and Sheeps Tor 16 1033

533

13

-7 S5 to 15 min E

Sheeps Tor is a very popular place, with a lot of short, easier lines, whereas Bench Tor has a limited number of lines, and one athletic classic. Sheeps Tor is often used by groups.

324

The Dewerstone 19 733

9333

333

-7 F10 to 15 min E

One of the West Country’s finest cliffs for the lower and mid-grade trad climber. The climbs are up to 3 pitches long, on excellent granite and in a magical setting.

330

Torbay

Berry Head 13 -7

533

5333

3333 G3 to 10 min W % C

Most areas

Classic multi-pitch lines that soar up and out of the Great Cave, and two sea level traverses that radiate from the Great Cave. Some nesting restrictions.

344

Daddyhole 21 33

833

633

433 A5 to 12 min W %

Sunny, adventurous and spectacular climbing on the Main Cliff contrasts with more technical climbing in the quarries. Sheltered and non-tidal.

354

Anstey's and Long Quarry 32 17

27

833

21333 G9 to 10 min E %

A picturesque setting above a gorgeous cove, with hard sport routes and serious trad climbs. Can be very warm in the summer.

360

Dorset

Portland 81 -7

11333

41333

29333 A10 to 20 min R %

The UK’s most popular sport climbing destination with hundreds of routes across a broad spread of grades. Good weather and quick-to-dry but can get busy.

374

Swanage 62 633

19333

20333

17333 A10 to 45 min E % J C

2 areas

A massive cliff with a mix of sport and trad climbs in an adventurous setting. Most climbs require committing abseil approaches. Fewer tide problems but some bird restrictions.

390 Quality and range of routes in different grade bands: 333 - Excellent 33 - Good 3 - Okay 7 - Not worth a visit Shaded means that only some of the routes are tidal / require an abseil / are restricted

36 Crag Table 2

Wes

t Pen

with

The

Liza

rdIn

land

Dev

onTo

rbay

Dor

set

Avon

Som

erse

tN

orth

Dev

onCu

lm C

oast

Inla

nd C

ornw

all

Atla

ntic

Coa

st

Routes up to Sev HS to HVS E1 to E3 E4 and up Approach Sun Tides Abseil Birds Summary Page

West Penw

ith

Gurnard's Head AreaZennor, Gurnards, Carn Gloose, Robin's Rocks 10 -

7

433

5333

13 G15 to 25 min } % J

Three atmospheric tidal cliffs that can be combined in a single visit plus the nearby Zennor cliff if conditions are poor. The main three cliffs can retain dampness.

188

Bosigran 42 12333

13333

14333

3333 G10 min R J

Cornwall’s best known cliff set high above the sea with no tidal problems. Something for all - long, short, easy or hard. Also includes The Great Zawn and Bosigran Ridge areas.

198

Kenidjack 6 -7

333

333

-7 S20 min E J

Kenidjack’s shear looking killas slate face is a popular place that is sheltered, non-tidal and home to one of the finest HVSs on the coast.

220

Sennen 34 10333

17333

533

233 F12 min R %

An array of superb pitches on super-solid granite. The grade span is wide and the plentiful easier and mid-grade lines are some of the best on the coast.

224

Lands End and Pordenack 10 233

433

233

233 G5 to 15 min R % J

A complex area with some mixed quality granite but a number of good pitches and a great ridge route. Pordenack Point has better rock, is barely tidal and has some classic routes.

232

Carn Les Boel to FoxCarn les Boel, Zawn Kellys, Carn Barra, Fox Promontory 36 3

3

1733

1033

633 F10 to 25 min R % J

Carn Les Boel and Zawn Kellys are two remote and quiet cliffs with great atmosphere. Carn Barra is great for harder single pitch climbs. Fox Promontory is a quiet location.

242

Chair Ladder 17 4333

8333

5333

-7 S12 min } % J

A fantastic sea-cliff with superb low and mid-grade multi-pitch routes Can be frustrating to get perfect conditions, as the cliff is tidal and nesting birds are a big problem at times.

256

Porthgwarra to St. LevansPorthgwarra, Hella Point, Vessacks West, St. Levan's 12 4

33

433

433

-7 A5 to 20 min E % J

An often-overlooked section of the coast, with a number of worthwhile routes on a diverse set of crags. 266

Cribba Head to Tater DuCribba Head, St. Loy, Tater Du 14 -

7

433

333

733 F25 to 40 min E % J

A long strip of coastline that presents some diverse climbing styles and aesthetically interesting cliffs. 272

Lizard

Trewavas Head 7 23

433

13

-7 F20 min U

An increasingly popular crag, set high above the sea. Sheltered with some good pitches on granite. Can be combined with other crags at Lizard Point.

282

Lizard Point 26 933

933

533

333 F10 to 15 min E % J

A collection of dark sea-cliffs dotted around the UK mainland’s most southerly point. The climbs are excellent and in a superb location.

286

Inland Devon

Chudleigh 36 633

13333

12333

533 F5 min E

A very popular limestone cliff, set in the depths of rural Devon, but not too far from Dartmoor and Torbay. The climbs are all trad and up to four pitches long.

300

Torbryan Quarry 23 -7

-7

1333

1033 A4 min R

A small but excellent limestone sport crag. Takes a bit of finding, but the fine climbs are well worth the battle with the Devon rural roads.

310

Haytor and Hound Tor 36 1333

1033

933

433 S5 min U

Dartmoor's largest tor that is rarely quiet. Brilliant rock and routes. Hound Tor is a friendly venue with plenty of short, fun pitches.

314

Bench Tor and Sheeps Tor 16 1033

533

13

-7 S5 to 15 min E

Sheeps Tor is a very popular place, with a lot of short, easier lines, whereas Bench Tor has a limited number of lines, and one athletic classic. Sheeps Tor is often used by groups.

324

The Dewerstone 19 733

9333

333

-7 F10 to 15 min E

One of the West Country’s finest cliffs for the lower and mid-grade trad climber. The climbs are up to 3 pitches long, on excellent granite and in a magical setting.

330

Torbay

Berry Head 13 -7

533

5333

3333 G3 to 10 min W % C

Most areas

Classic multi-pitch lines that soar up and out of the Great Cave, and two sea level traverses that radiate from the Great Cave. Some nesting restrictions.

344

Daddyhole 21 33

833

633

433 A5 to 12 min W %

Sunny, adventurous and spectacular climbing on the Main Cliff contrasts with more technical climbing in the quarries. Sheltered and non-tidal.

354

Anstey's and Long Quarry 32 17

27

833

21333 G9 to 10 min E %

A picturesque setting above a gorgeous cove, with hard sport routes and serious trad climbs. Can be very warm in the summer.

360

Dorset

Portland 81 -7

11333

41333

29333 A10 to 20 min R %

The UK’s most popular sport climbing destination with hundreds of routes across a broad spread of grades. Good weather and quick-to-dry but can get busy.

374

Swanage 62 633

19333

20333

17333 A10 to 45 min E % J C

2 areas

A massive cliff with a mix of sport and trad climbs in an adventurous setting. Most climbs require committing abseil approaches. Fewer tide problems but some bird restrictions.

390 Quality and range of routes in different grade bands: 333 - Excellent 33 - Good 3 - Okay 7 - Not worth a visit Shaded means that only some of the routes are tidal / require an abseil / are restricted

This is a very rough graded list of the best routes. As ever, it will not be found accurate by eveyone. If you disagree strongly with it, then please let us know via the voting on the Route Database on the web site - www.rockfax.com

Top 50 - The 'Top 50' are not necessarily the best 50 routes in the book, just 50 great challenges through the grade range.

Sport Routes 8c+ Page *** c Brian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363

8b *** c A Fisherman’s Tale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 *** c Tuppence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 *** c Brean Topping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

8a+ *** c Palace of the Brine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 4 c Infinite Gravity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 401

8a *** c The Cider Soak . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363

7c+ *** c Shadow Beast . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368 *** c La Créme . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 *** c Monoculture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380 *** c Smashing of Amps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 *** c Psychokiller . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 *** c Temple Redneck . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 *** c Avenged . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 *** c Storm Warning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 *** c Total Seizure . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403

7c *** c Return of the Gunfighter . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 *** c Hall of Mirrors . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389 *** c El Chocco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

7b+ *** c The Lynch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 363 *** c Bird of Paradise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 4 c Empire of the Sun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 *** c Waves Become Wings . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403 *** c Chulilla . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 *** c Starscrape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 *** c Zinc Oxide Mountain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 383

7b *** c Want Out . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 389 *** c Rampage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 155 *** c More Steam, Bigger Women!!! . . . . . . . 365 *** c Living Dead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 *** c Halfway to Heaven . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 *** c Tessellations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 403 *** c Thread Flintstone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 *** c Paradise Lost . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86

7a+ Page *** c Chiming for You . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77 *** c Pump Hitler . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382 4 c England’s Dreaming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 *** c Victims of Fashion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 380 *** c Barney Rubble . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 *** c Reverence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385

7a *** c Portland Heights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 *** c Superfly Guy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386 *** c Get that Man! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 *** c Shakin’ Like a Leaf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 ** c Chepito . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79 *** c Pearl Harbour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

6c+ *** c Best Fingers Forward . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384 *** c Nothing but the Groove . . . . . . . . . . . . . 386

6c *** c Mayday . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 313 *** c Burning Skies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 378 ** c Coral Sea . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

6b+ *** c Buoys Will Be Buoys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 382 *** c Lord Stublock Deepvoid .... . . . . . . . . . . 379 *** c The Jewel of the Isle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384

6b *** c The Watchman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 384

6a+ *** c Reptile Smile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376 *** c Stalker’s Zone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385 *** c Trad Free World . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 385

5 *** c Slings Shot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 376

Trad Routes E9 4 c The Walk of Life . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118 ** c Question Mark . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274

E8 *** c Pre-Marital Tension . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274 *** c Wall of Spirits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 4 c The Monk’s Satanic Verses . . . . . . . . . . 143

E6 *** c Hellbound . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 *** c Savage Earthsea. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348 *** c Watching the Ocean . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c The Jimi Hendrix Experience . . . . . . . . . 77 *** c Free the Spirit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 *** c Booby Prize . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127 *** c Coronary Country . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 *** c Pink Ginsane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 *** c The Mind Cathedral . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 *** c Caribbean Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 *** c The Earthsea Trilogy Part 1 . . . . . . . . . 118 4 c Caveman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 348 *** c Edgemaster . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 *** c Demolition . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227

Dorset

TorbayInland D

evonThe Lizard

West Penw

ithA

tlantic CoastInland Cornw

allCulm

CoastN

orth Devon

Avon Somerset

38 West Country Climbing Graded List and Top 50

E5 Page *** c Rough Justice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 *** c The West Face . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 *** c Changeling . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 *** c Creeping Flesh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116 *** c White Life . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 *** c Black Magic (Pentire Head) . . . . . . . . . . 175 4 c Il Duce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 *** c Footless Madness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 *** c Devonshire Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362 4 c Darkinbad the Brightdayler . . . . . . . . . . 175 *** c Antiworlds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Olympica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Supernova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Low Profile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 *** c The Empire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 *** c A Widespread Ocean of Fear . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Cullinan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Evil Eye . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 *** c Wall of the Worlds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407 *** c Polaris . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 401 4 c Pacemaker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 *** c Tricky Dicky . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75

E4 *** c Cithaeron. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Warlord (Cheddar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 *** c Vagabond . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168 *** c Interspace . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 4 c Immaculate Arete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 *** c Burning Gold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 *** c Renegade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368 4 c Fay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143 *** c Warlord (Swanage) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 *** c Mother Africa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407 *** c Central Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 4 c Peryl . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 *** c Mal de Mer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Phantasm . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 179 *** c Black Death . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 *** c Blinding Flash . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 *** c Call to Arms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 *** c Impending Gleam . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 402 *** c Rough Diamond . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 *** c Cian . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 *** c Amanita Muscarina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 *** c Highway One . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 *** c The Tomb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180 *** c Deja Vu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 *** c Cain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 241 *** c Golden Brown . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 *** c Eroica . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175 *** c Rainbow Bridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 351 4 c America . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 178 *** c Arms Race . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 *** c Milky Way . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Break On Through . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142 *** c Freeborn Man . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 401

E3 4 c The Dream/Liberator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 217 *** c The Promised Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Think Pink . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 *** c Facedancin’ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 *** c Jamaican Dub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 *** c More than a Match . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 *** c High Noon/Mauritius . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 4 c Kafoozalem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 *** c Raven Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 *** c Ladder of Desire . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 *** c The Mitre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 362

*** c International . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 *** c Wolfman Jack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Ahimsa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 *** c Last Slip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 *** c Them . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 *** c Combat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 *** c Rustic Wall Direct . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 *** c Amnesty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 294 *** c Mastodon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 193 *** c Diamond Smiles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138 *** c Sunny Corner Lane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 *** c Longships Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 236 *** c The Great Divide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Krapp’s Last Tape . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 *** c Mickey Mouse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408 *** c Crow . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 *** c Brainbiter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 *** c Dreadnought . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 *** c Interrogation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 *** c Grand Plage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248 *** c The Ghost . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 4 c Ocean Boulevard. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407 *** c Soul Sacrifice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411 *** c Pressure Drop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121 4 c The Cull . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295 *** c Flash Dance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 *** c Black Ice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 368 4 c Yellow Edge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 *** c Certain Surprise . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 *** c Cocytus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 365

E2 *** c The Preter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 *** c Quatermass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Heart of the Sun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 98 *** c Redspeed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 4 c Mercury Direct . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181 *** c Eyefull Tower . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 156 *** c Crimtyphon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 147 4 c Sacre Coeur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 *** c Lich Gates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 *** c Xanadu . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218 *** c Samson Arete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 *** c Tudor Rose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 394 *** c Destiny . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Out of the Blue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 *** c Ximenes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411 *** c Rainbow Games . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 182 *** c Combined Ops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309 4 c Bow Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 *** c Gypsy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 4 c Mars . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 416 *** c Buccaneer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408 *** c Hostile Witness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 *** c Crinoid . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 355 *** c The Conger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 401

E1 4 c Astral Stroll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196 *** c Rock Dancer . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 *** c American Dream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245 *** c Dark Power . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Suicide Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 4 c The Spider . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 303 *** c Seventh Dread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 *** c Thunderball . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 407 *** c Lotus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 171 *** c Fifth Appendage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c The Earl of Perth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 *** c The Spook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 *** c Incubus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 4 c Coronation Street . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86

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39Graded List and Top 50 West Country Climbing

E1 continued ... Page *** c Elysium . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 *** c Scimitar Variations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 *** c The Indy 500 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Limbo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 *** c Gargantua . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357 *** c The Smile . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 139 *** c Matchless . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134 *** c Gideon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 *** c Headline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Bishop’s Rib . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 *** c Fruitflancase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336 4 c Aviation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 *** c Oesophagus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 *** c Satan’s Slip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Letterbox Wall/Hangover . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 *** c Magical Mystery Tour . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 350 *** c Haggis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318

HVS *** c Lunakhod . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 140 *** c Behemoth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 411 4 c Midnight Cowboy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101 *** c American Beauty. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 4 c Malbogies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 59 4 c Climbers’ Club Direct . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337 *** c Suspense . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 4 c Moonraker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 347 *** c Hell Gates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68 *** c Last Exit to Torquay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357 4 c Saxon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222 *** c Spider’s Web . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 339 *** c Great Central Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 4 c Finale Groove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408 4 c Formula One . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105 *** c Lightning Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 410 *** c Vandal and Ann . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319 *** c Quality Street . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 *** c Gates of Eden . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 357

VS 4 c Lost Horizon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 4 c Martell Slab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276 *** c Anvil Chorus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 *** c Sensible Shoes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197 4 c Tatra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 408 *** c Giant’s Cave Buttress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66 *** c Shamrock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 *** c Nameless . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205 4 c South Face Direct . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 4 c Diocese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 *** c Tensor II . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 396 *** c Freda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415 *** c Great Western . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 302 4 c Inkerman Groove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 *** c Albion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 *** c Eclipse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 *** c Leviathan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 *** c Sarcophagus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 *** c Suspension Flake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 322

HS *** c Flannel Avenue . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263 4 c Central Groove . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334 *** c Pegasus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258 4 c Right Angle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 192 *** c Wall Street . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 397 4 c Doorpost . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206 4 c Demo Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 *** c Box of Delights . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132 4 c The Devil’s Slide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104

S Page ** c Nightmare . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 ** c Red Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 ** c Sleepwalk . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 ** c Doorway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 4 c Pendulum Chimney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260 ** c Second Corner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415 4 c Shangri-La . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96 *** c Ben . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 ** c Ochre Slab Route ll . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 ** c First Corner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415 ** c Integrity . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 ** c Porthgwarra Chimney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 ** c Sol . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 ** c Helluva Slab . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 ** c Raven Gully . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 317 ** c Crack and Chimney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328 ** c Tombstone . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133 *** c Avernus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 415 ** c Andrew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209

HVD ** c Morpheus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 ** c Barn Owl Crack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306 *** c Ledge Climb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 ** c Oread . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 ** c No Name . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 228 ** c Peel Crack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249 ** c Devonleigh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 *** c Wogs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304 ** c Route B . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337

VDiff 4 c Bosigran Ridge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215 ** c Rake’s Progress. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259 4 c Land’s End Long Climb . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237 ** c Needle Arete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338 ** c The Vice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 323 ** c Bob’s Climb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 ** c Scrattling Crack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 4 c Terrier’s Tooth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264 *** c The Long Traverse. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 367 ** c Colonel’s Arete . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332 ** c Battery Rib . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 104 ** c Banana Flake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227 ** c South East Buttress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161 ** c Bulging Wall . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 318 ** c Oak Tree Zig Zag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325 ** c Pinnacle Buttress . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332 ** c Blind Pew . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 ** c In-Between . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 *** c South East Climb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 158 *** c Porthgwarra Face . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268 ** c Corner Climb . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227

Diff ** c Greenmantel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308 ** c Senior’s Route . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 ** c Black Slab (Bosigran) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200 ** c Mucky Gully. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 332 4 c Alison Rib . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 210 ** c Staircase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229

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40 West Country Climbing Graded List and Top 50

Pippa Froggatt finishing the exposed final pitch of the Top 50 route Right Angle (HS 4b) - page 192 - at Gurnard's Head, West Penwith. Photo: Chris Sims

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*** 8b A Fisherman's Tale 363 * Diff A Little Gemma 292 ** E1 A Sack Full of Clowns 179 ** E3 A Swift Flight of Fancy 226 *** E5 A Widespread Ocean of Fear 105 ** HVS Abbot's Way 353 * HVS Acheron 365 ** VS Aerial 263 * E2 Aerobic Wall 322 ** VS Africa Route 228 * 7b Agent Provocateur 154 *** E3 Ahimsa 86 *** VS Albion 104 ** E1 Alex of Gowla 183 4 Diff Alison Rib 210 ** 6c Always Have the Edge 382 *** E4 Amanita Muscarina 49 4 E4 America 177 178 *** HVS American Beauty 104 *** E1 American Dream 245 ** 7a+ American Express 365 *** E3 Amnesty 294 ** S Andrew 209 ** E4 Antenna 236 *** E5 Antiworlds 105 *** VS Anvil Chorus 209 ** VS Aramis 318 ** E3 Archtempter, The 112 ** VDiff Arete, The (Avon) 46 63 ** VS Arete, The (Sennen) 227 HVS Argonaut Direct 126 * HVS Armchair, The 202 *** E4 Arms Race 43 50 * VDiff Ash Tree Buttress 306 4 E1 Astral Stroll 195 196 ** HVS Astrid 416 * VDiff Athos 318 ** 6b+ Ausfahrt 379 ** HS Autumn Flakes 205 * VS Avalanche 284 *** 7c+ Avenged 362 *** S Avernus 415 4 E1 Aviation 317 ** VS Axis 250 ** E1 Baby Duck 68 ** HS Balcony 414 * HVS Baldest, The (Portishead) 71 *** E5 Baldest, The (St Loy) 275 ** VDiff Banana Flake 227 * E2 Banshee 50 ** 7a+ Barbed Wire Kisses 380 * HVD Barking Crack 329 ** HVD Barn Owl Crack 306 *** 7a+ Barney Rubble 313 ** VS Batt Crack 396 ** VDiff Battery Rib 104 * HVS Beaker Route 202 ** 6b+ Bedrock 312 313 ** E2 Behemoth (Gurnard's Head) 191 192

*** HVS Behemoth (Swanage) 391 411 *** S Ben 100 ** E2 Beowolf 205 ** E3 Bermuda Wall 271 *** 6c+ Best Fingers Forward 384 * VDiff Big Top 210 6c+ Bikini Atoll 79 VDiff Bilson's Fowl Play 291 ** HS Binky 353 *** 7b+ Bird of Paradise 86 ** 7b Birth Pains of New Nations 403 ** HVS Bishop's Arete 263 *** E1 Bishop's Rib 263 *** E4 Black Death 304 ** VS Black Hand, The 104 *** E3 Black Ice 369 368 ** E2 Black Magic (Gurnard’s Head) 193 *** E5 Black Magic (Pentire Head) 162 175 ** Diff Black Slab (Bosigran) 200 * VDiff Black Slab (Sennen) 228 ** 8a Black Snake Moan 80 ** E3 Blik, The 49 ** VDiff Blind Pew 278 292 *** E4 Blinding Flash 355 ** E2 Blisterin' Barnacle 119 ** E5 Blonde Bombshell 365 ** E1 Blood 353 * 7a+ Blowing the Gimp 388 ** 6c Blue Faced Booby 384 ** VDiff Bob's Climb 63 ** HVS Bonbogies 56 *** E6 Booby Prize 127 ** 6c Boogie on Down 311 313 4 VDiff Bosigran Ridge 214 215 4 E2 Bow Wall 206 *** HS Box of Delights 132 * E2 Boysen's Cracks 274 ** E3 Boysen's Groove 274 *** E3 Brainbiter 86 *** E4 Break On Through 3 142 * 6a+ Brean Dream 79 ** E5 Brean Machine, The 82 *** 8b Brean Topping 80 ** 8a Breathing Method, The 388 *** 8c+ Brian 363 * Diff Bridal Piton Slab 319 ** 6a+ Brief Encounter 388 ** HVS Brink of Solarity, The 71 ** 6b+ British Summertime 86 *** E2 Buccaneer 408 ** VDiff Bulging Wall 318 ** 7c Bullworker 81 *** 6b+ Buoys Will Be Buoys 383 382 * HS Burdock 329 *** E4 Burning Gold 245 *** 6c Burning Skies 378 *** E4 Cain 241

** 6a Cake Walk 376 * E3 Caliban 263 *** E4 Call to Arms 367 * VS Canis 319 ** VS Caprice 170 171 * HVS Caravanserai 147 *** E6 Caribbean Blue 367 ** 6c Castles Made of Sand 87 86 4 E6 Caveman 348 *** E1 Central Buttress (Avon) 64 * HVD Central Buttress (Bench Tor) 325 4 HS Central Groove 334 334 * VS Central Rib 64 * VS Central Route 154 *** E4 Central Wall 55 59 *** E3 Certain Surprise 73 75 *** E5 Changeling 60 * VS Chastity Corner 353 ** 7a Chepito 79 * HVS Chien Lunatique 123 123 * 6c+ Child of Light 384 *** 7a+ Chiming for You 77 ** E1 Chlorophyll Cluster 275 ** E1 Choker 56 * HVS Chouinard's Yard 1 94 6c+ Chronicles of Vladimir, The 379 * HVS Chudleigh Overhang 309 *** 7b+ Chulilla 80 80 *** E4 Cian 293 294 *** 8a Cider Soak, The 363 *** E4 Cithaeron 105 ** HS Civvy Route 227 ** VS Clarion 63 * 7b Clashing Socks 79 * HVS Clawtrack 140 4 HVS Climbers' Club Direct 337 ** VS Climbers' Club Ordinary 337 ** E4 Clotted Cream 358 ** 7b+ Cocteau Phenomena 379 *** E3 Cocytus 365 * HVS Colomen 285 ** VDiff Colonel's Arete 332 *** E3 Combat 308 *** E2 Combined Ops 309 * 6c+ Come, Armageddon, Come 381 *** E2 Conger, The 401 ** 6a+ Consommé 389 ** E5 Cool Diamonds 245 ** 6c Coral Sea 83 79 * S Cormorant Slab 234 ** E1 Cormorant's Bill, The 233 234 * Diff Corner and Staircase 160 ** VDiff Corner Climb 227 *** E6 Coronary Country 143 4 E1 Coronation Street 86

Route Index

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** HVS Corpse, The 56 ** E3 Corsican Days 75 ** S Crack and Chimney 328 ** E1 Crack in the Sky 248 * E1 Crazy Streak 126 *** E5 Creeping Flesh 116 ** E6 Crimson Dynamo 74 *** E2 Crimtyphon 147 *** E2 Crinoid 355 * 6a Crocadilia 376 ** E3 Crooked Mile 137 139 *** E3 Crow 86 * HS Crow's Nest Ordinary 276 * E2 Cruising for a Bruising 251 4 E3 Cull, The 295 *** E5 Cullinan 105 * HS Cumbelloe 249 ** HVS Curtain Raiser, The 254 ** 7a+ Cybernetic Orchard 378 * HVS Cyclops 338 * E1 D'Artagnan 318 * S Dandelion 329 *** E1 Dark Power 104 4 E5 Darkinbad the Brightdayler 175 ** E4 Dawn 295 * S Dawn Walk 60 ** E4 Day Tripper 234 * VS Daydream 54 *** E4 Deja Vu 217 ** E2 Delilah 226 4 HS Demo Route 227 *** E6 Demolition 226 * HVS Desecrator 49 ** E2 Desolation Row 219 *** E2 Destiny 105 ** VS Devil's Chimney, The 104 ** E2 Devil's Meridian 271 4 HS Devil's Slide, The 104 ** E5 Devonian, The 138 ** HVD Devonleigh 323 *** E5 Devonshire Cream 362 * HS Dexter (Avon) 63 ** VS Dexter (Sennen) 229 * HVS Dextrose 229 ** HVS Dialectic 250 * HS Diamond Rib 358 *** E3 Diamond Smiles 138 ** VS Diamond Solitare 104 ** VS Ding 200 ** E1 Dinner Date 86 4 VS Diocese 263 * S Direct Route (Avon) 63 * VS Direct Route (Sennen) 154 ** HVS Dolphin Cracks 231 * E2 Don't Stop Now 318 * S Dong 200 4 HS Doorpost 206 ** E1 Doors of Perception 95 ** S Doorway 209 ** 7a+ Double Agent 154 * HVD Double Chockstone 415

** HVS Double Diamond 103 104 ** VS Double Overhang 228 ** 6c Downtown Julie Brown 376 *** E3 Dreadnought 345 347 * HVS Dream Lover 95 4 E3 Dream/Liberator, The 213 217 ** 6b+ Driven Like the Snow 379 * HVS Dulcima 143 ** E4 Dune Dust 410 * 7a+ Dusty Bedrock in Need of Careful Preparation 379 *** E1 Earl of Perth, The 68 *** E6 Earthsea Trilogy Part 1, The 117 118 *** VS Eclipse 104 * VDiff Economist's Climb 240 *** E6 Edgemaster 54 *** 7c El Chocco 81 *** E1 Elysium 410 4 7b+ Empire of the Sun 362 *** E5 Empire, The 86 ** 6c Enchanted Path, The 384 4 7a+ England's Dreaming 377 376 *** E4 Eroica 173 175 ** 6b European Flavour 388 ** 6a+ Evening Falls 381 380 *** E5 Evil Eye 202 ** HVS Excalibur 243 245 ** E1 Excelsior 260 * VS Exodus 250 *** E2 Eyefull Tower 148 156 * HS Föhn 123 *** E3 Facedancin' 395 394 ** E5 False Gods 367 * 6c Fantasy Island 387 4 E4 Fay 143 ** E2 Ffoeg's Folly 53 *** E1 Fifth Appendage 104 ** HS Figuzzi 157 4 HVS Finale Groove 408 * E4 Finesse 275 ** S First Corner 415 *** HS Flannel Avenue 263 *** E3 Flash Dance 355 * E1 Flier, The 316 * VS Floating Voter 54 ** HS Fly On The Wall 338 339 ** Mod Flying Buttress, The 104 * E2 Flying Circus 171 *** E5 Footless Madness 248 4 HVS Formula One 91 104 ** E2 Four for Texas 182 ** E2 Fourteen Fathoms 251 *** VS Freda 412 415 * HS Freddie 100 *** E6 Free the Spirit 367 *** E4 Freeborn Man 401 * 7b+ Frenzied Detruncation 387 * VS Friends 241 *** E1 Fruitflancase 337 336 ** 7b Fun Factory, The 383

** E1 Gagool 309 * S Gangway 414 *** E1 Gargantua 357 *** HVS Gates of Eden 359 357 * E2 Geireagle II 249 ** HVS Genge's Groove 226 ** 7b Genuflection 385 * S Geriatrics 271 *** 7a Get that Man! 86 *** E3 Ghost, The 205 *** VS Giant's Cave Buttress 66 *** E1 Gideon 331 337 ** E3 Gillian 230 ** E3 Glass Arete 249 * 7c Global Solutions 81 * HS Gneiss Gnome 222 ** E4 God Forbid 161 ** HVS Goddess of Gloom 347 ** E5 Godspell 112 *** E4 Golden Brown 248 ** HVS Golden Fleece, The 411 ** HVS Goldrush, The 287 288 ** E2 Golva 230 * E1 Good Dog 356 * 7a+ Grand Larceny 378 *** E3 Grand Plage 247 248 * E2 Grandma's Groove 415 6c+ Gratuitous Lies Here 381 *** HVS Great Central Route 64 * E2 Great Corner 82 *** E3 Great Divide, The 105 * VDiff Great Slanting 292 *** VS Great Western 302 ** E2 Green Cormorant Face 4 216 ** Diff Greenmantel 308 ** E2 Grendel 203 * E3 Grim Reaper 302 ** VS Gronk 53 ** E4 GT Special 68 ** E6 Guernica 9 178 ** 7c Guilt Edge, The 81 * VS Guy Fawkes Crack 307 *** E2 Gypsy 410 *** E1 Haggis 318 ** E2 Haile Selassie 127 ** E3 Half Life 122 *** 7b Halfway to Heaven 385 *** 7c Hall of Mirrors 388 * HS Halley's Corner 295 VS Harder 274 ** E2 Harpoon 131 133 * E5 Harvestman 302 * 7a Haute Cuisine 389 * VS Hayloft 231 *** E1 Headline 104 *** E2 Heart of the Sun 98 * 7c Heartland 387 ** 7b Heathen Man 362 ** VS Heidelberg Creature, The 408 *** HVS Hell Gates 68 *** E6 Hellbound 116

Route Index

Avon Somerset

North D

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CoastInland Cornw

allA

tlantic CoastW

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The LizardInland D

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420

** S Helluva Slab 269 *** E3 High Noon/Mauritius 156 * Diff High Street 414 *** E4 Highway One 70 71 ** E4 Hocus Pocus 50 ** 7a Holy Hand Grenade, The 388 * S Honeymoon Corner 316 ** HS Horseman's Route 104 *** E2 Hostile Witness 324 325 * E4 Hot Ice 307 ** 7a+ How the Mighty Fall 362 * VS Huntsman, The 254 ** 7c+ Hurricane on a Millpond 389 * HVS Hydraulic Arete 323 ** 7b I Walk the Line 378 * VDiff Idleburger Buttress 54 4 E5 Il Duce 167 168 ** E2 Illustrated Man 250 ** 6c Immaculata 384 4 E4 Immaculate Arete 239 241 ** HVS Immaculate Slab 104 *** E4 Impending Gleam 402 * S In Her Eyes 100 * HVS In the Gallery 222 ** VDiff In-Between 210 ** 6b+ Inch Perfect, Inchworm 380 *** E1 Incubus 1 367 ** E2 Indian Country 183 *** E1 Indy 500, The 104 ** 7b+ Infernal Din 388 ** E5 Inferno 96 4 8a+ Infinite Gravity 398 401 ** 7b+ Info Freako 383 4 VS Inkerman Groove 301 304 ** S Integrity 104 * S Intermediate Route 227 *** E3 International 294 *** E3 Interrogation 315 317 *** E4 Interspace 245 * 6b+ Into the Groove 386 ** 6c+ Isle of Slingers 379 *** E3 Jamaican Dub 113 * HVS Jasper 54 * E1 Jazz Discharge Party Hat 115 119 *** 6b+ Jewel of the Isle, The 384 *** E6 Jimi Hendrix Experience, The 77 *** HVS Jo 407 * S Johnstone's Route 234 * HVS Joi de Vivre 133 ** HVS Journey to Ixtlan 165 182 * S Joy 285 * HVS Juliet's Balcony 157 * Diff Junior's Route 230 * 7a Jurassic Shift 383 4 E3 Kafoozalem 202 * VDiff Kate 210 7b Keel Haul 381

** HS Kernyck 273 274 ** E2 Khyber Wall 157 ** E4 King's Arete 168 * VS Kinkyboots 100 ** HVS Kittiwake 258 * 6b+ Kraken 79 *** E3 Krapp's Last Tape 59 *** 7c+ La Créme 363 7c La Usurpadora 387 *** E3 Ladder of Desire 50 4 VDiff Land's End Long Climb 237 ** E4 Last Dance, The 234 *** HVS Last Exit to Torquay 357 ** E2 Last Laugh 138 ** 7a Last Rose of Summer 379 *** E3 Last Slip 53 ** E6 Lazarus 280 295 ** 6a+ Lazy Days and Summer Haze 380 * E1 Lead Boots 126 ** E5 Lean Machine, The 407 *** HVD Ledge Climb 209 ** HVS Ledgend Direct 396 * VS Let Her Children Play 291 ** HS Letterbox 227 *** E1 Letterbox Wall/Hangover 298 318 *** VS Leviathan 334 ** VS Levitation 317 * HVS Levitation Direct 317 ** HVS Liaison with Lenin 355 * S Liars Dice 323 *** E2 Lich Gates 60 ** HVS Lich, The 56 *** HVS Lightning Wall 410 *** E1 Limbo 68 ** E4 Limbo Dancer 322 ** HVS Limelight 289 *** VS Little Brown Jug 206 ** HVS Little Dribbler 132 ** 7b Little White Lie 312 *** 7b Living Dead 76 77 * HVS Long Rock Eliminate 101 *** VDiff Long Traverse, The 366 *** E3 Longships Wall 236 * S Looking for a Rainbow 182 * E1 Loose Woman 112 ** HVS Loot 307 * E1 Lord Falmouth, The 160 * E2 Lord Lucan is Missing 122 *** 6b+ Lord Stublock Deepvoid 379 4 VS Lost Horizon 96 ** 6c+ Lost in Rock 387 *** E1 Lotus 171 * VDiff Love is Blind 292 ** E5 Lovely, Lovely, Lovely 274 *** E5 Low Profile 50 * E1 Lucky Streak 122 ** E3 Lumpy Universe, The 364 *** HVS Lunakhod 141 140 *** 7b+ Lynch, The 363

** E1 M1 50 ** E2 Machete Wall 305 ** E2 Madonna of the Sea 267 270 ** HVS Mae West 281 289 *** E1 Magical Mystery Tour 352 350 * Diff Main Face Climb 227 ** E4 Main Wall Eliminate 59 ** E3 Major Tom 307 *** E4 Mal de Mer 105 4 HVS Malbogies 59 ** 6a+ Man Who Never 387 * 6a Margaret on the Guillotine 381 ** HS Marion 100 * E2 Marisco Striptease 249 4 E2 Mars 416 4 VS Martell Slab 277 276 ** VS Mascara 283 285 ** E1 Mascon 138 *** E3 Mastodon 193 *** E1 Matchless 109 134 ** E3 Matt Black 105 ** E2 Mausoleum 178 *** 6c Mayday 313 ** E4 Mean Street 248 * E1 Median Lucky 358 ** E4 Melpomene 417 416 4 E2 Mercury Direct 181 *** E3 Mickey Mouse 408 ** HVS Midas Touch, The 355 4 HVS Midnight Cowboy 101 ** E1 Midnight Express 11 271 ** 6c+ Might and Main 361 362 ** E1 Mike's Mistake 63 * Mod Mile End 292 * 8a Milky Bar Kid 81 *** E4 Milky Way 105 *** E6 Mind Cathedral, The 402 ** E3 Mirage 50 ** E2 Misery Goat 138 *** E3 Mitre, The 362 ** VS Monday Face 230 4 E8 Monk's Satanic Verses, The 143 *** 7c+ Monoculture 380 4 HVS Moonraker 340 347 * E1 Moonshot (Anstey’s) 365 * Diff Moonshot (Baggy) 94 * VS Moping Owl 161 *** 7b More Steam, Bigger 365 *** E3 More than a Match 135 134 ** HVD Morpheus 53 ** E4 Mortality Crisis 305 *** E4 Mother Africa 404 407 * S Mouseproof 284 * 7a+ Mouth Waters, The 389 ** Diff Mucky Gully 333 332 * VS Mushroom Wall 328

Route Index

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421

** HVS Muzzle, The 255 *** VS Nameless 205 ** VDiff Needle Arete 338 * VS Needle Direct, The 123 * S Nest Egg 358 ** HS Never on a Sunday 303 ** E4 New Editions 236 ** E3 New Horizons 50 ** E2 New Horizons II 50 ** 6c New Saladin 389 ** HS Niche Wall 251 ** S Nightmare 53 ** 7b Nihil 382 ** 6c No Man is an Island 382 ** 7a No me Comas el Coco 381 ** HVD No Name 228 * E1 No Sweat 96 * 7a+ Norfolk Coast 380 ** E4 Nose Decay 88 122 ** E2 Not Blisterin' Barnacle 119 *** 6c+ Nothing but the Groove 387 386 * HVS Nothing Much 241 VS Notre Dame 113 *** 6b+ Numb Ones, The 86 ** VDiff Oak Tree Zig Zag 325 4 E3 Ocean Boulevard 407 * Diff Ocean of Tears 291 ** E1 Ocean, The 104 ** HVS Ochre Slab Route l 200 ** S Ochre Slab Route ll 200 *** E1 Oesophagus 296 308 ** E1 Oiseaux 126 ** VS Old Faithful 411 *** E5 Olympica 105 * HVD Omega Crack 329 * 6c Once Upon a Time in 384 ** E1 One in Every Port 122 ** HVD Oread 210 Diff Original Route 63 ** 6c Out of Reach, Out of Mind 381 *** E2 Out of the Blue 139 ** 7b Outside the Gate 385 ** HVS Outward Bound 15 316 * S Overhang Crack 329 * VS Overhanging Corner 228 4 E5 Pacemaker 106 142 ** E2 Padansac 54 ** Mod Paddy 323 *** 8a+ Palace of the Brine 402 ** VS Pandora 132 * VS Pandora's Box 82 *** 7b Paradise Lost 85 86 ** HVS Paragon 205 ** E4 Pass the Pigs 274 ** E3 Patience 203 * 6b+ Peace in the Nineties 384 *** 7a Pearl Harbour 45 79 * 6c Pebbles 312 ** E2 Peccary, The 416 ** HVD Peel Crack 246 249

*** HS Pegasus 258 * 6b Peggy Potato 312 ** E3 Pegs Progress 358 4 S Pendulum Chimney 184 260 * VS People's Queen, The 291 4 E4 Peryl 60 * VDiff Peter 157 ** VS Petros 63 *** E4 Phantasm 179 * HS Pharos 71 ** E3 Philatus 415 ** HVS Pickpocket (Baggy) 99 95 ** HVS Pickpocket (Split Rock) 71 ** 6a Pinch an Inch 380 *** E6 Pink Ginsane 59 ** E2 Pink Wall Direct 67 60 ** HVS Pink Wall Traverse 60 ** VDiff Pinnacle Buttress 332 * HVS Pinnacle Traverse 356 ** VS Piton Route 64 * S Plimsoll Line 357 ** HS Plumed Serpent, The 119 *** E5 Polaris 401 ** VS Porky 161 ** S Porthgwarra Chimney 268 *** VDiff Porthgwarra Face 268 *** 7a Portland Heights 378 * 6c+ Potential Energy 154 *** E8 Pre-Marital Tension 274 *** E3 Pressure Drop 121 121 *** E2 Preter, The 59 * 7b+ Prisoner of Conscience 80 *** E3 Promised Land, The 105 *** 7c+ Psychokiller 153 156 * HVD Pulpit 323 *** 7a+ Pump Hitler 370 382 * HS Purple Revrac, The 155 ** E4 Pyjamarama 7 236 *** HVS Quality Street 397 * E1 Quasimodo 289 *** E2 Quatermass 105 ** E9 Question Mark 274 * E1 Quo Vadis 288 ** HVS Ra 250 ** 7b+ Racing Line, The 383 *** E4 Rainbow Bridge 351 *** E2 Rainbow Games 182 ** VDiff Rake's Progress 259 *** 7b Rampage 155 * E3 Rancho Cucamonga 50 * VDiff Raven Face 339 ** S Raven Gully 317 *** E3 Raven Wall 22 203 ** VS Raven Wing 316 ** E5 Red Rag to a Bull 74 ** S Red Wall 260 *** E2 Redspeed 104 * HS Reek 306 *** E4 Renegade 368 *** 6a+ Reptile Smile 376 * 6b Retaining the Ashes 386 *** 7c Return of the Gunfighter 86

** 6b+ Return to Roissy 379 * 7a Reve D'un Corbeau 380 ** HS Reveille 254 *** 7a+ Reverence 385 * S Reverse Cleft 332 HS Reynard's Revenge 254 ** E2 Rhinoceros 317 4 HS Right Angle 41 192 * VS Rite of Spring 113 ** VS Road Runner 104 *** E1 Rock Dancer 221 222 ** 7a+ Roof of Inequity, The 81 * HVS Rosebud in June 189 188 *** E4 Rough Diamond 319 *** E5 Rough Justice 319 ** HVD Route B 337 ** VS Royal Forester, The 188 ** 7b+ Running It In 386 *** E3 Rustic Wall Direct 74 4 E2 Sacre Coeur 111 113 ** E1 Sacrosanct 366 * E5 Sahara 74 * VDiff Salome 307 * S Saltheart 292 *** E2 Samson Arete 225 226 ** E1 Sapphire 396 *** VS Sarcophagus 308 ** HVS Saskia 270 *** E1 Satan's Slip 104 * E2 Saturn Five 307 *** E6 Savage Earthsea 348 4 HVS Saxon 222 222 * VS Scar 303 *** E1 Scimitar Variations 334 ** VDiff Scrattling Crack 94 * VS Screw 316 * 7a+ Screw the Roses 379 * HS Sea Breeze 123 * HVS Sea Fury 240 ** E4 Sea Green 139 * HVS Sea Wolf 251 ** VS Seal Slab 258 * 7b+ Sears Tower, The 388 * HS Seaward Edge 126 ** S Second Corner 415 ** Diff Senior's Route 230 *** VS Sensible Shoes 186 197 * 6c+ Serious Music 380 *** E1 Seventh Dread 347 VS Seventh Veil 307 ** HVS Sexilegs 101 *** 7c+ Shadow Beast 368 *** 7a Shakin' Like a Leaf 86 *** VS Shamrock 104 4 S Shangri-La 96 ** 7c Shape Shifter 382 * E1 Shark 193 * VS Shawangunk 268 * 7a Shells, The Shells, The 379 Diff Sheltered Crack 329 * E1 Shield, The 222 ** 7b+ Shining Heart 387

Route Index

Avon Somerset

North D

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tlantic CoastW

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422

* VS Shivering Timbers 126 ** 7b+ Shock of the New 86 ** HVS Shorty's Folly 161 * VS Silent Movie 288 ** HVS Silken Thread/Imperialist 339 ** HVS Simanon Direct 155 * HVS Simian 54 ** HS Sinister 63 * Mod Sinner's Route 229 ** E6 Siren's Cry 175 * HS Sirius 288 ** Diff Slab Route 328 S Slanting Crack 328 * VDiff Sleazy Corner 249 ** S Sleepwalk 53 *** 5 Slings Shot 376 ** E3 Slip It In Quick 93 96 * VS Slip Road 415 ** E2 Slip Tide 104 ** VS Slippery Slab 226 ** HVS Slot, The 306 *** 7c+ Smashing of Amps 75 *** E1 Smile, The 139 * E3 Smoke Gets In Your Eyes 307 ** 6a Smooth Operator 86 * VS Socket Arete 249 * S Socket Wall 249 ** E4 Soft Touch 96 ** S Sol 133 ** VS Solid Air 125 and cover 126 * 7a Some Velvet Morning 384 ** VS Songs from a Gentle Man 291 *** E3 Soul Sacrifice 411 ** VDiff South East Buttress 161 *** VDiff South East Climb 158 4 VS South Face Direct 261 * Diff South Ridge, The 146 ** 6b+ Space Tourist 86 * 7b Spanner Eyes 376 ** 7a Speedfreak 86 4 E1 Spider, The 303 *** HVS Spider's Web 339 ** E3 Spire, The 263 * E4 Spoils of War 140 *** E1 Spook, The 396 ** VS Spreadeagle 414 ** E3 Spy, The 303 * HS St Gregory the Wonder Worker 364 ** Diff Staircase 228 * HVS Stalactite Direct 302 *** 6a+ Stalker's Zone 385 * HVS Star Fox 157 *** 7b+ Starscrape 86 * Diff Step Across 318 ** E2 Stone Boom 240 ** E2 Stop Press 104 *** 7c+ Storm Warning 80 * E5 Storms over Africa 274

** HVS Stormy Weather 128 ** E1 Stroof 414 * HVS Sugar Magnolia 146 ** E6 Suicide Blonde 357 *** E1 Suicide Wall 205 * HVS Sun Shadow 269 ** E2 Sunday, Bloody Sunday 128 *** E3 Sunny Corner Lane 248 ** HS Sunshine Cracks 254 * VS Sunstruck 130 132 *** 7a Superfly Guy 386 ** VS Supernatural 179 *** E5 Supernova 105 * HVS Suspended Sentence 325 *** HVS Suspense 68 ** HVS Suspension Bridge Arete 68 *** VS Suspension Flake 321 322 4 VS Tatra 409 408 * 7a Tea Cakes Calling 384 ** E6 Tears of a Clown 226 *** 7c+ Temple Redneck 402 *** VS Tensor II 393 396 * HVS Terrace Cracks 231 ** E3 Terrapin 96 4 VDiff Terrier's Tooth 264 264 *** 7b Tessellations 403 ** E1 Thane 222 *** E3 Them 50 ** E1 Thin Wall Special 201 206 *** E3 Think Pink 59 *** 7b Thread Flintstone 313 ** 7c+ Threadbare 313 *** E1 Thunderball 407 ** 7b+ Tide Rising 79 VS TNT 307 ** VS Tobacco Road 356 ** E6 Toltec Twostep 322 *** E4 Tomb, The 180 ** S Tombstone 133 *** 7c+ Total Seizure 403 ** E1 Tourist Trap 122 *** 6a+ Trad Free World 385 ** HVS Transcript Direct 414 * VDiff Tree Root 358 * HS Tregagle's Buttress 160 * S Tregagle's Crack 160 *** E5 Tricky Dicky 75 * VS Triton 357 ** E4 Tropospheric Scatter 193 ** E3 Trouble with Lichen 154 *** E2 Tudor Rose 394 *** 8b Tuppence 342 363 ** E1 Twang 306 ** VS Twinkletoes 96 ** HVS Tydomin 145 146 ** E1 Undercracker 96 ** VS Unknown Wall 49 ** 7b Up the Styx, Without 368 * VS Urizen 96 *** E4 Vagabond 168

** HVS Vala 334 ** 7a Van People 387 *** HVS Vandal and Ann 319 ** HVS Variety Show 216 ** VS Venusberg 209 * E1 Verger, The 112 ** VS Vertical Crack 230 ** VDiff Vice, The 323 * 7b Vicious Delicious 312 *** 7a+ Victims of Fashion 380 E1 Vietnamerica 240 ** E1 Visions of Johanna 206 ** E2 Vortices 410 * 6c+ Wages of Fear 312 ** 6b+ Waiting for the Barbarians 384 4 E9 Walk of Life, The 118 ** HVS Walking on the Moon 126 *** E8 Wall of Spirits 175 *** E5 Wall of the Worlds 407 *** HS Wall Street 372 397 *** 7b Want Out 389 *** E4 Warlord (Cheddar) 86 *** E4 Warlord (Swanage) 394 ** 6c Warrior 151 157 *** E6 Watching the Ocean 105 *** 6b Watchman, The 384 *** 7b+ Waves Become Wings 403 ** VS Weasle 251 ** VS Wellington's Stand 133 ** E2 West Face Direct 259 *** E5 West Face, The 217 ** E2 West Wing 282 284 * S Westerlation 147 146 ** VS Whisker, The 253 255 *** E5 White Life 304 ** HVS William's Chimney 285 * HVS Wind Wall 327 328 *** HVD Wogs 304 *** E3 Wolfman Jack 105 * HS Workers' Wall 328 * E1 World's End 235 ** E4 Wraith 139 ** VS Wreckers' Slab 129 128 * HVD Wrist Climb 241 *** E2 Xanadu 218 *** E2 Ximenes 411 ** E2 Yardarm 349 4 E3 Yellow Edge 49 ** E1 Yellow Wall 396 ** E5 Yogic Flyer 171 * HVS Zawn Face Route 235 ** HS Zeke's Route 240 ** VS Zig Zag (Bosigran) 205 ** Diff Zig Zag (Haytor) 318 ** HVS Zig Zag (Sennen) 226 *** 7b+ Zinc Oxide Mountain 383 ** E1 Zombogies Direct 56 ** E4 Zuma 357

Route Index

Climbers running together the two pitches of Sennen's most celebrated climb, Demo Route (HS 4b) - page 227 - Photo Duncan Skelton/Offwidth Images

Avon

Som

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423Route Index

Avon Somerset

North D

evonCulm

CoastInland Cornw

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tlantic CoastW

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The LizardInland D

evonTorbay

Dorset

Access . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24Accommodation . . . . . . . . . . . .16Acknowledgements . . . . . . . . . .8Advertisers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10Cafes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20Colour Codes . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30Contents . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3Crag Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34Emergencies . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Fixed Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28Gear . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Grade Table . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30Graded List . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38Guidebooks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4

Logistics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12Loose Rock . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Map Key . . . . . . . . . .Cover FlapMobile Phones . . . . . . . . . . . . .14Pubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20Rockfax Books . . . . . .Cover FlapRopes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26Route Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . .418Shops . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18Symbol Key . . . . . . . .Cover FlapTides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32Top 50 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .38Topo Key . . . . . . . . . .Cover FlapWalls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18

424 General Index and Area Map

London

Manchester

Glasgow

DublinWest Penwith

Bosigran . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .198Carn Gloose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194Carn les Boel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .242Chair Ladder . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .256Cribba Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .272Fox Promontory . . . . . . . . . . . . .252Gurnard's Head Area . . . . . . . . .188Hella Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266Kenidjack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .220Lands End . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .232Pordenack . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .238Porthgwarra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266 Robin's Rocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .194Sennen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .224St . Levens . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266St . Loy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .272Tater Du . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .272Vessacks West . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266Zawn Kellys . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .242Zennor Cliff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .188

The LizardLizard Point . . . . .286 Trewavas Head . .282

Inland Devon and DartmoorBench Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 324Chudleigh . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 300Haytor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 314Hound Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 320Sheeps Tor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 326The Dewerstone . . . . . . . . . . . 330Torbryan Quarry . . . . . . . . . . . 310

TorbayAnstey's Cove . . . . . 360Berry Head . . . . . . . 344Daddyhole . . . . . . . 354Long Quarry Point . 360

DorsetPortland . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 374Swanage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 390

Culm CoastBlackchurch . . . . . . . . . 110Compass Point . . . . . . . 144Cornakey . . . . . . . . . . . 124Dyer's . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114Gull Rock . . . . . . . . . . . 124Lower Sharpnose . . . . . 136Oldwalls' . . . . . . . . . . . . 130Screda Point . . . . . . . . . 120Smoothlands . . . . . . . . . 114Vicarage . . . . . . . . . . . . 130

Avon and SomersetAvon Gorge . . . . . . . . . . 44Brean Down . . . . . . . . . 78Cheddar Gorge . . . . . . . 84Portishead Quarry . . . . 70Split Rock Quarry . . . . . 72Uphill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76

North DevonBaggy Point . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 92Lundy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102

Inland CornwallCheesewring Quarry . 152Roche Rock . . . . . . . . 159The Devil's Jump . . . . 158

Atlantic CoastCarn Gowla . . . 176 Doyden Point . 170Pentire Head . . 172Tintagel . . . . . . 166

M5

M5

M4

M4

A38

A39 A377

A37

A35

A303

A361

A394

Bristol

Bath

Bournemouth

Swanage

Cardiff

Barnstaple

Plymouth

Penzance

Bodmin

Dartmoor National Park

Exmoor National Park

Portland

Lundy