August Edition 2014 The Huaraz Telegraph

THE HUARAZ TELEGRAPHMade in Huaraz August 2014 Free/Gratis!

Continuation of our expat interviews

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A new option for tourists was presented during the 157th anniversary of Huaraz

Open top double decker tourist bus inaugurated

Thinking of doing some volunteering in the Huaraz area? Read about your optionspage 12

Volunteering options 2014

El último Inca explains his nickname

page 3Beto Pinto has opened many new routes in the white mountain range

2 The Huaraz TelegraphAUGUST 2014

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The EditorialPost-modern-colonialism in the Americas

Last month I heard something most interesting during an interview I did, so interesting that I would really like to share it. It concerns a Peruvian lad who has a foreign girlfriend,

and she had asked him the following question: ¨How come the people that used to salute me, say hello or even hug me at a certain place, are not doing this anymore now that I am officially living here? I don’t feel the same warmth as when I was a tourist.¨ His

answer was a simple yet cryptic: ¨Welcome to Huaraz.¨

It’s true, a trip to Huaraz as a tourist is still a good idea. Despite the poor road condi-tions, lack of service in restaurants, and the overwhelming number of agencies and touts, Huaraz and its surroundings have much to offer. Living here is a whole different ball game though. It´s difficult to pinpoint what it is exactly that changes the sentiment towards a foreigner who becomes a citizen. It probably has much to do with the fact that becoming part of the gringo society involves a short process of acceptance. Being accepted into the community depends on what you can offer. In other words, it´s not about whom you are as a person, or what you stand for, but what you´re bringing with

you, and where you are from. Other ex-pats living here have confirmed on different occasions that it even depends on what café you drink your coffee in.

One of the first mistakes that most newcomers make is that they stick with the groups of gringos that are already formed. Instead of settling in, having a look at what´s around, and listening and investing a little bit of time to learn the basics of Spanish, many fall

into the trap of speaking only English and, therefore, immediately lose a valuable connection with the locals.

So why are foreigners choosing Huaraz as their new destination? According to a well-respected foreign person who has lived here for more than 15 years, there are three main reasons. The first reason is that the person fell in love with someone in town and decided to move here and start a family. Or they didn’t fall in love, but were trapped when a one-night stand produced a baby, and Huaraz became home out of necessity, meaning this person does not necessarily like the mountains or outdoor activities, but simply chose to remain in Huaraz because his or her new partner resides here. Ironi-cally this is this person who is most likely to learn to speak Spanish properly, and has the highest chance of being adopted by the locals as a new member of society, on the

condition that he or she is not too outspoken or critical.

Financial investment is another reason for a gringo to move to Huaraz. More often than not these foreigners have a superior education compared to the locals, and as

Peruvian laws are easily manipulated or simply not obeyed, it´s relatively easy to establish a business or NGO. In most cases, this type of person frequenly doesn’t have any regard for the law because as far as they are concerned the locals don’t either. Investors need to be friendly people as they cannot risk having too many enemies in town, simply because they depend on them. Other investors might choose to live far away from the civilised world where no authorities can bother them. Problems arise when land is bought at a very unfair price, and promises and commitments that were made to the local community in terms of education or social projects never come frui-

tion.

The third group concerns fortune seekers. In most cases these foreigners have a low level of education, although this may still be higher than average local person, and have no prospects in their home country. For them Huaraz appears to be the land of opportunities, where even the most unproductive person can become important. So until the Peruvian Government is prepared to change the existing laws on immigration, a gringo cannot be blamed for staying here longer than they are permitted to do so, or can they? It appears that if you have the right amount of money, and the right connec-tions you can melt into the local community with little or no challenges. Earlier this week

someone called it post-modern-colonialism in the Americas.

Rex Broekman

Founder and editor of The Huaraz Telegraph

The Huaraz Telegraph freely available!The Huaraz Telegraph is available for free at most of the following hostels and hotels in Huaraz. We do not recommend any hostel in particular as we are completely neutral.

The Telegraph® is a registered Trademark at INDECOPI. All current and previous articles are owned and claimed by The Huaraz Telegraph and may not be reproduced by any means without written permission from The Telegraph®. General Copyright on all Contents, Composition & Design by The Huaraz Telegraph, Huaraz, Perú - © 2012 – 2014. Hecho el deposito legal: 2013-007727

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3The Huaraz TelegraphAUGUST 2014


Interview

We were contacted by Beto who, together with Belgian Guy Fonck, conquered the south peak of the Tunsho in the Central Cordillera. We met with Beto and asked him about his childhood, and how he became a professional climber. He also revealed why people call him the last Inca (el último Inca), and affirmed that, in contrast to what many think, it’s not because of his appearance.

I was born in (San Cristobal de) Mashuan, which is located south of Huaraz. When I was a young boy I attended primary school in Huaraz at the Collegio de Libertad. I remember that one day our teacher asked all pupils what they wanted to become when we were adults. Most answers varied from a doctor, a lawyer, or an engineer, but I answered that it was my dream to climb the Huascaran. My fellow students laughed at this answer because people used to say that this was something for gringos.

When I was seven or eight years old I liked to visit the lakes around my town and other parts of the Cordilleras, and in the June and July months every year there were always some tourists around the town of Mashuan, people who had come to climb Mount Shaqsha (5,703m). I guess this caught my attention. So when I could I accompanied the tourists and observed how they located their crampons in the ice to start their climb. I always got some chocolates, but what I really wanted was to join them. I used to help my grandfather, a typical hard-working Andean man, look after his animals, and on one occasion when I was with him I asked him about climbing, he answered: ¨No son, climbing is for gringos, they climb the mountains because on top of them there is a pot of gold, and that´s why gringos are richer than we are.¨ I didn’t believe that, I knew there was more to it, but didn’t know what exactly.

Then when I turned ten or eleven I started to explore the lakes around Huaraz, such as Churup and Cojup for example, and when I was twelve I got the opportunity to climb Vallunaraju (5,686m), with a friend whose father had an agency and all the equipment. Looking back now I laugh at the amount of equipment we had; a lot of if unnecessary. At one o’clock in the afternoon we reached the summit, and this made me so happy.Back home I shared my experience with my friends, but they couldn’t really understand how I felt. I guess it’s difficult to transmit the sentiment one feels when reaching the summit to people who have never climbed.

When I was a fourteen I expressed my feelings to a German lad who then invited me to climb Chopicalqui (6,354m), and off we went. I helped him with the cooking, and we finally made it to the summit, but the strange thing was that I was still full of energy, I wanted more. The German guy,

however, was struggling with the altitude and was suffering with a headache. The next year he returned to Huaraz and brought all sorts of equipment for me so I could climb with him. We first climbed Pisco, and later on Huascaran. I was emotionally affected by accomplishing my dream of climbing the highest mountain in Peru (normal route, south peak).

I learned a lot during this time because the German guy, who paid for the whole trip, was leading the climb and I was never in front, but helped where I could. Back home I had to lie to people; I told them that I went to a couple of lakes, but instead I was climbing Huascaran. Now being older I feel sorry for that because it was very irresponsible. But, this is how one learns about the risks that are involved in this sport.

Not much later I started to study civil engineering and mechanics, and because my father was not able to help me financially I worked as an auto mechanic to make a little bit of money alongside my studies so I could afford to enter. Here I learned the technical assets that come with climbing. During my beginner’s course at the Casa de Guías I climbed with Xavi, who was from Barcelona in Spain and I gained more experience on Alpamayo, Quitaraju, Tocclaraju, the glacier of Chakrarahu, and a many more peaks. I also did a new route with Aritza Monasterio from Basque Country.

During this climb I felt an emotion I had never felt before. Climbing a route that has never done before and reaching the top of a mountain where no one has ever been before is when mountaineers develop themselves the most, both physically and mentally. You will learn to understand and know the mountain a lot better when it hasn’t been climbed yet, compared to mountains that are overrun with climbers (like Pisco and Vallunaraju).On a new route, you have to think a lot in advance and have to try to ‘read’ the route, even though there is no route because it hasn’t been climbed before.

With a couple of friends from the same class of Casa de Guías, including Michel Quito and Rolando Morales we planned the first expedition to the Huantsan (6,369 m), which is also known as the K2 of the Andes. We quickly reached the top, but were very unfortunate with the weather and we couldn’t reach the south peak, so we went for the north peak. When we reached the peak we named it the Wayki´s Way (route of the brothers). This is where I learned the most about leadership on a mountain, and due to necessity we found out that every mission needs a leader.

Upon our return Christian Andreas Stoll Davila, who speaks English, wrote to Alpinist, and they published the route, and featured us as the first Peruvians to make it to the top. Thanks to this publication, people started to recognise us and write to us offering their

congratulations etc. It also inspired me to open more routes like Urus, where we have a route called El vuelo del Inca, at Artesonraju we opened a new route, at the facade of Pisco we had two new routes, which we called Crudita and El camino secreto de Hermann Kirchner.

Subsequently I went to the Central Andes and opened a new route on Mount Vicuñita, which I baptised as El último Inca. When we returned to Huaraz from that expedition, we went to a bar to celebrate our great achievement among friends. When I told my friends about this new route they all wanted to know the name, so I said to them: ¨we called it El último Inca!¨ People looked at me, and everybody started to laugh, and because I had long hair, and a typical Andean nose from that day on people in Huaraz called me The Last Inca (laughs). The name stuck.

I have since opened up at least 18 new routes in the Cordillera Central including one on a mountain that didn’t have a name at that point; you could call it a virgin mountain. This mountain is now called Pico Abél, and the route is called Abél as well. After that I climbed in Bolivia and Ecuador, as well as overseas where I set numerous speed-climbing-records.

Another climb that made me very proud was Llaca. After setting out in the afternoon, we carried our equipment until we reached the moraine, where we set up a bivouac (shelter). At two in the morning we were heading for the top, but it took us six hours to climb up two large parts of 120 metres, each with fragile ice and parts of rock as well. After overcoming this obstacle another 60 metre face was awaiting us. I tried three times to reach the top of this face, but fell down over and over again. Then my climbing friend Rolando tried, but he fell four times. We thought that this was the end of the expedition, because bad weather was coming in as well and we felt really tired. But Rolando wanted to try it one more time. And with concentration

and focus he succeeded.

Back in Huaraz we named this route after Rolando. As his nickname is mono (monkey), the route is called El gran mono. This route was nominated for the Piolet d’Or (French for The Golden Ice Axe), which is an annual mountaineering award given by the French magazine Montagnes and The Groupe de Haute Montagne since 1991. The nomination for the Piolet d’Or was gave us sufficient inspiration to continue climbing and discovering new routes.

In 2011 I went back to the Cordillera Central Cordillera with one objective, to climb Tunsho Mountain. Something funny was going on here. All maps indicated that from the three peaks, the central peak is the south peak, but our GPS sent us in another direction. Reaching the top we named the route Chinita and published it. This caused a storm of negative reactions from people accusing us of giving false information. In the end we had to use videos and photos to prove that we actually had conquered the peak, all because of a mistake on the topographic maps that are in circulation.

This year I returned to the Cordillera Central with a Belgian client called Guy Fonck, because there was still one peak (south peak) on Tunsho that had never been climbed. After a week-long expedition, and a 14-hour attack, we finally made it. My client wanted to name the route Mel and Lies so that’s what it is called today.

Beto had much more to say about Huaraz and climbing, but we will reveal that in a future edition.

Beto thanked me (the editor) personally for making a contribution to society with this newspaper. This was nice to hear as I always appreciate positive feedback to counter the negative. Plus it is good to know that The Huaraz Telegraph’s hard work and dedication to truth is recognised.

Beto Pinto Toledo tells The Huaraz Telegraph about his mountain adventures, first experiences and where his nickname comes from

Beto Pinto started climbing when he was very young and is now running is own agencyThe Huaraz Telegraph



Counterfeit banknotes from an ATM, open top double decker tourist bus inaugurated by the mayor, and two leathal accidents on Pirámide

Counterfeit banknotes from the ATM in Huaraz

Two weeks ago Isabel Rivera Romero withdrew some cash from the ATM of Banco de la Nacion. Unaware that one was counterfeit she went to pay some bills. When she found out that one was a fake she went back to the bank to make a complaint and be reimbursed, where she was told that there was no evidence to prove that the fake note came from the ATM and that, in fact, it might have been her switching the counterfeit one for a real one.

This is not the first time that counterfeit banknotes have been in circulation in Huaraz, and it probably won’t be the last. It does, however, raise the question of who puts the counterfeit notes in the ATMs in the first place, and are they aware that they are doing it? Over the past few years tourists have also been victims of this criminal activity.

Our advice is to avoid using ATMs at weekends, only use ATMs while the bank is still open, and where possible use the ATMs inside the bank. Check the money thoroughly, that way if you are given a counterfeit banknote you can hopefully resolve the problem quickly and efficiently. There are only a couple of ATMs in Huaraz that that allow you to withdraw S/. 700 at once, others are limited to a maximum of S/.400.

If you are carrying US Dollars, make sure that the banknotes are in good condition as many businesses in Huaraz will reject a banknote with the slightest imperfection or small tear. If this happens, use the money at a supermarket in Lima.

Open top double decker tourist bus inaugurated by the mayor

In order to diversify tourism in Huaraz, Mony Tours, in partnership with the city, has purchased a Mirabus (an open top double decker bus). The new bus

service was launched on Friday the 18th of July outside City Hall as part of the anniversary celebrations. The Mayor of Huaraz, Vladimir Meza Villarreal stated that: ¨Like other large cities (London, Barcelona, Auckland and Lima), we can enjoy seeing the Mirabus passing through the streets of our city. The bus will go to the cross of Rataquenua as the road conditions are suitable for the journey.¨

The service is being run by tourism entrepreneur Felipe Moreno of Mony Tours, who signed an agreement with the Municipality of Huaraz. The mayor is very happy and grateful for Mony Tours’ support of the project, which he thinks will generate much need tourism in the province, stating: ¨This project is sustainable long-term, and now we will not have to travel to another city or even another country to enjoy a tour on a double decker tour bus, we can now do it in our own city.¨

Photographers, tourists and citizens of Huaraz all enjoy a SuperMoon

Recently the people of Huaraz witnessed Perigee-Syzygy, also known as Supermoon – a phenomenon where the full moon appears larger in the night sky, because it is closer to the Earth than at any other time. Members of the Photographic Club of Huaraz (Club Fotográfico de Huaraz), including Virgilio Guzmán, Charlotte Kesl a professional documentary photographer and teacher, and Sam Williams managing director of Project Cordillera cast their eyes to the heavens to observe the spectacular scene on Saturday night, and were kind enough to provide The Huaraz Telegraph with a picture. The next and closest SuperMoon will be on the 10th of August at 18:09 UTC, and the last one will be on the 9th of September at 1:38 UTC.

Taxi drivers who stole from tourists and citizens are arrested

After numerous complaints from citizens

who were robbed while travelling in taxis the police commissioner mounted an operation to catch the outlaws. This resulted in the perpetrators – one acting as the driver, and the second one hiding in the back of the car carrying a weapon and stealing money and valuables from the passengers – being detained. Good to know that Huaraz is a little bit safer again.

Two fatalities on Pirámide de Garcilaso last month

Canadian Cory Hall and Cole Kennedy from the United States have become the latest climbers to die on the region’s mountains following the deaths, earlier in the year, of Italians Enrico Brogli (29) and Mateo Tragliaquili (27), who died on Alpamayo, and Israeli Pavel Lerman (35), who passed away while hiking the Laguna 69 trek.

On the 14th of July Cole Kennedy, a recent Colorado College graduate, was attempting to conquer the peak of Piramide with his partner John Collis, when the pair was hit by falling ice. Despite his injuries John managed to make it off the mountain and call for help, unfortunately Cole was killed.

James Kennedy the father of Cole posted the following message on Supertopo.com’s climbers’ forum:

¨I wanted to thank everyone for their kind words and show of support. The climbing community can be a small and tight knit group in times like this. While my family is devastated we are trying our best to focus on what a great person Cole was and how he died doing what he loved most in a very beautiful part of the world. To be clear, John Collis, Cole’s partner is safe and OK. Our family thanks him for being a great friend and climbing partner to Cole over the years. Cole and John were climbing Piramide de Garcilaso also called Piramide Blanca. I especially wanted to thank Ted Alexander for the

help and emotional support he has shown our family.¨

A week before Mr Kennedy’s fatal accident, Piramide Mountain claimed the life of Cory Hall. According to Gripped editor Brandon Pullan, Cory who was from New Brunswick, Canada, had the humour and charming light-heartedness synonymous with east coasters. Hall had spent the last few years travelling the world, climbing in some of the most remote and beautiful places a climber can dream of: Patagonia, Cochamo, Brazil, the Rockies, India and many more.

According to the accident report Hall left Huaraz for the Paron Valley on July the 27th intending to climb the south west face of the 5,885 metre Piramide; a sterling peak located in the heart of the Cordillera Blanca. The report states that Hall headed out from his tent for the last time early on the 29th or 30th. Photos recovered from his camera indicate that he climbed the face; however, it is unclear whether or not he reached the summit before making his decent by rappelling, a technique used by climbers to control their decent.

When rescuers located Hall’s body it was tangled in his rope indicating that Hall was descending when his equipment failed. An investigation of the accident site concluded that Corey died instantly.

Our thoughts are with the Kennedy and Hall family and their friends.

Forty-nine participants from all over the world cycling The Andes Trail will visit Huaraz

Bike-Dreams organises adventurous and challenging bicycle expeditions for enthusiastic cyclists from all around the world, and they are on their way to Huaraz.

The Huaraz TelegraphMayor Vladimir Meza (right) with Rocío Diaz (left) standing in front of the new Mirabus

The Huaraz TelegraphPerigee-Syzygy, also known as Supermoon over the mountains in Huaraz

Brief Local News

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Advertorial/Publirreportaje

We would kindly like to invite you to participate in our Trece Búhos ABC... Have you already visited us? We´re to be found at Parque de Ginebra near the Plaza de Armas

R – Rapid service and free Wi-Fi Our many friendly employees are another reason to visit 13 Búhos. We have a young and intelligent team of hard workers who will serve as fast as they possibly can. The interesting thing is that when there are more people at our bar, our personnel will immediately be increased. If you are a tourist and willing to make some extra money, come along because we can always use some extra hands. We would kindly like to remind you that we open up at 11 a.m. and our terrace is an excellent place to recover from your hangover, be it with a Bloody Mary or with a great cup of coffee, which you can accompany with breakfast, some waffles or pancakes. While enjoying the morning sun, you can use our free Wi-Fi to read this newspaper

on your tablet or smartphone.

Q – Quality and quantity dealsLucho’s beers or ales are unique, and come in different flavours. In the previous editions we have already explained the three different flavours we offer, and the additional coca flavour is a nice extra. This time we would like you to pay attention to this great deal we offer. In most places you pay from S/. 10.00 for a regular beer, imported beers of course not included. At Trece Búhos you can get your beer for as little as S/. 8.00; and this is a regular beer. The bigger bottle we offer contains 650 millilitres and is the real deal for those travellers who are on a budget. If you are thirsty it can be all yours, but don’t hesitate to share it among other climbers or visitors in the bar. Last month, after the conclusion of the World Cup, we updated our menu. On the menu there are now pastas, steak, pancakes, hot wings and we even have a selection of teas for the ladies. Now if people are talented singers, musicians, magicians or stand-up comedians we invite you to our bar. Lucho can provide you with a stage and the audience you are looking for. Beers are on the house for the entertainers. Another great deal with only

winners!

U – UMe? Yes, you! Our patrons are very

important to us, as they have made Trece Búhos what it is today. A mere ten years ago we were a tiny, second floor bar, depending

mainly on a few regular local people. We have since expanded, and are now three

times the size, and can offer not only beers and drinks, but also sandwiches, comfortable

tables and sofas, board games, magazines, a great English newspaper, Jenga games,

spectacular art on our walls and much more. All thanks to you, because you visited us,

and will hopefully continue to visit us in the future!

S – Swing-top bottlesTrece Búhos offers a unique type of home-made brew, but it doesn’t stop there. As

far as we know, Lucho´s Beers are the only beers in South America served in swing-

top bottles (also known as flip-top in some countries), apart from imported beers like Dutch Grolsch. The classic swing-top was

invented by Nicolai Fritzner in Germany in 1875. It quickly became the main bottle top

for beer bottles worldwide. After only 30 years, the swing-top started to be replaced by the Crown Cap, which was invented by an American called William Painter (1892). The most functional feature of the swing-

top bottle is it can be resealed, so the beer inside stays fresh. Another interesting fact

is that swing-top bottles are recyclable, energy saving and sustainable. According to

the owner of Trece Búhos, the swing-tops are imported from Germany and France and definitely mark his unique beers and

establishment. Come to Trece Búhos to see it yourself!

T – TreceEver wondered what the word trece means? Yes it’s Spanish, and it means thirteen. Our name actually means Thirteen Owls when translated into English. Now in many countries some would think twice before putting the number 13 in their business name, but not Lucho, the owner of Trece Búhos. According to legend apart from the owner and his wife only a very select group of people know the real reason why 13 Búhos is called Trece Búhos. There are some that believe that if you drink 13 bottles of Lucho beers the truth of the name will be revealed to you. Mission impossible or do you think you can handle

this challenge?

The three ales for sale at 13 Búhos Great burgers, tequeños, waffles and coffee

Great atmosphere and even better drinks are the ingredients for a good night out at 13 Búhos

Welcome to our ABC! In this penultimate edition of The Huaraz Telegraph we continue to show a little insight into what our business is about. We will now explain the letters Q through to U and next month we shall continue until

you have seen all 26 letters of the alphabet! Hope to see you soon at 13!

The man it´s all about, a smiling Lucho

Lucho´s beers are the only beers in South America served in swing-top bottles



In the autumn of 2006 they organised the Paris-Dakar by Bike; an expedition that saw 21 people cycle 7,200 kilometres from Paris and Dakar in ten weeks. Other expeditions include the La Bella Italia, Les Dix Alpes, Tour d’Olympia, La Grande Boucle des Pyrénées, and the West-Africa tour.

Since 2008 the 11,000 kilometre Andes Trail expedition has been held every two years, taking in some of the longest mountain ranges in the world. The Mitad-del-Mundo monument at the equator marks the start line of this epic journey.

During the first stages in Ecuador the group will cycle through the mountainous heart of the country passing sleeping volcanoes. Isolated areas and tough climbs await them in Peru and they will have to conquer the high altitudes of the altiplano in Bolivia, crossing the flat plateau with little oxygen. Herds of llamas and vague tracks on the white salt of the Salar-de-Uyuni make cycling this route a surreal experience.

The trail then drops down into Argentina with a mix of landscapes from coloured canyons to green valleys, and with flora such as giant cacti and pampas, before tackling Aconcagua – the highest mountain of the American continent. The finishing line of this monumental bike ride is in Ushuaia, the world’s most southern city at the entrance to Antarctica called Fin-del-Mundo, the end of the world.

This year’s expedition will set off on August the 1st, from just outside Quito, and finish 136 days and 11,000 kilometres (6.875 miles) later, on December the 14th. The participants are expected to be in Huaraz on August 24th, and will have a day of rest on the 25th. They will then cycle through the Cañón del Pato, which is an expressive geographic feature located north of Huaraz. The cyclists will cross this scenic road, with its nearly 50 tunnels and spectacular landscape, on the way. The participants come from all over the world: Norway, Germany, the Netherlands, the United States, Australia, Switzerland, Ireland, the Czech Republic, Italy, Austria and Belgium. The riders are supported by a professional team of drivers, cooks,

a mechanic and a doctor. Rob van der Geest and Wilbert Bonné are two crew members who will be accompanying the other 49 cyclists.

One of the Australian cyclists is Terry Wall who completed the 12,000km Cairo to Cape Town bicycle tour in 2011. He is a recently retired prosecutor who contacted us earlier this year as he thought it would be interesting to speak to Lewis (the only foreign inmate in Huaraz´ prison who is suffering from HIV) and see what prison life is really like in this part of the world. He said: ¨I think it would be a great to speak to Lewis, and do a story that I can feature on my website. I have over 35,000 people who read my website.¨

The Be Prepared and Travel Safe campaign launched at bus terminal in Huaraz

The launch of an exciting campaign called Be Prepared and Travel Safe took place at the Villón terminal in Huaraz. The campaign aims to boost tourism by promoting a culture of purchasing bus tickets in advance, and offering route information about the different destinations during the country’s festival periods such as Fiestas Patrias (the week around the 28th of July when Peru celebrates Independence Day, and Holy Week. The ceremony was attended by representatives of SUTRAM, Mrs. Maricela Cafferata Diaz Regional Directress of Foreign Trade and Tourism of Huaraz, and the head of INDECOPI, Dr Jorge Cabel.

The main objective of the campaign is to encourage passengers to book tickets in advance and compare prices, as well as provide information regarding the different destinations. Travellers are advised to book tickets early, especially if they intend to travel during public holidays, such as Independence Day and festivals such as Fiestas Patrias, when bus fares can be doubled or even quadrupled. Sadly there is not a single law in the Ley General de Transporte y Tránsito (General Law on Transportation and Transfers), that restricts the exaggeration of bus fares, and neither the Ministry of Transport and Communications (MTC); the Land Transport Superintendence of People, Cargo and Goods (SUTRAN); the Ombudsman or INDECOPI, can (or

Brief Local News

wants to) defend the consumer.

According to Isabel Luján there exists an inconsistency between the promotion of domestic tourism and the lack of regulation, for example a tourist can be left helpless during Fiestas Patrias because of the abusive interpretation of the law of supply and demand concerning overland transportation, and unfortunately the greater demand for tickets doesn’t mean client services are increased.

The campaign also focuses on other aspects of travel. For instance most buses leaving from the informal bus terminal in Huaraz are still violating the regulations such as not picking up passengers on route, something that can be reported to the appropriate authorities. Another important item mentioned by Dr Cabel is that transport companies must display the fares as stipulated in paragraph 41.1.8 of the National Transport Administration Regulations.

Ancash ranks fourth for traffic accidents nationwide

A report issued by the NGO Peruvian Consumers and Users Agency (Opecu), has revealed that the Ancash region ranks fourth for traffic accidents. From June the 30th to July 6th 78 traffic accidents resulted in 52 deaths. The regions registering the greatest number of fatalities are Puno, Cusco, Apurimac, Ancash, Pasco and Piura. According to Opecu´s president Hector Cánepa Plate, ¨It’s the second worst week since the new rules were implemented on Friday April 25th.¨ The statistical summary of traffic accidents that caused loss of life during the period under review show that 21 road accidents left 23 dead on the coastal roads, while another 17 accidents caused 29 deaths in the mountains. Puno and Cusco, with 12 and six people being killed respectively, were the regions with the highest number of fatalities caused by traffic accidents on mountain roads.

Large numbers of national tourists visited Huaraz during Fiesta Patrias

According to a report released by the directors of the National Park Huascaran,

the eight checkpoints of the park registered large numbers of national tourists during the extra-long holiday weekend around Independence Day. Earlier national newspaper La Republica reported that hotels and hostels in the city of Huaraz were completely full during the weekend, despite the fact that bus ticket fees and overnight prices went through the roof; sometimes being tripled or quadrupled, although according to The Huaraz Telegraph’s British sub-editor, this is not unusual. In Britain during school holidays prices increase so much that many people cannot afford to go on holiday, and during Wimbledon (a tennis tournament), hotels that usually charge £30 (S/.141) a night, can increase their rates to over £200 (S/.941).

According to the report, 4,281 tourists visited the receding icecaps of the Pastoruri Glacier, and 7,962 international and national visitors went to the Llanganuco Lakes. At Laguna Quillcayhuanca there were 269 tourists, 142 of which were national visitors, and Laguna de Purhuay attracted 1,078 visitors. At Lake Paron 1,571 domestic travellers passed through the entrance gates, along with 22 foreign tourists, and Lagoon Llaca saw 169 visitors 60 of which were foreigners.

In percentages and according to preference, Laguna Chinancocha (LLanganuco) with 40% gaining of the tourist trade, is still the most popular destination around Huaraz, followed by Pastoruri with 22%, Querococha 14%, Ulta (Potaca) 9%, Lake Paron 8%, Purhuay 5%, Churup 1% and Llaca 1%.

Alejandro Solis Neyra, the dean of the College of Graduates in Tourism said that during the long holiday an average of 10,000 visitors stayed overnight in Huaraz, and the Callejon de Huaylas. Solis said that although this is still not a very optimistic figure, there has been an increase in percentages from 30% to 40% compared to 2013, in terms of visitor flow. He also added that during the last seven years, the tourism sector has not received even a single Nuevo Sol in terms of investment by the regional

Continuation of page 4

The Huaraz TelegraphParticipating in the 11,000 kilometre Andes Trail is tough but rewarded with fantastic scenery

The Huaraz TelegraphAn artisan fair next to the town hall attracted many visitors



Brief Local Newsgovernment, and local governments in Ancash. The dean also declared that a total change of authorities in the tourism sector is required, and thus a change of policies for the benefit of the development of the tourism industry in the region. This is probably one of the reasons why Solis is running for alderman alongside regional presidential candidate Arturo Torres in the regional and municipal elections planned on October 5th this year.

Swiss climber Ueli Steck visits the Cordillera Blanca and is denied entrance at the National Park Huascaran

Ueli Steck, a famous Swiss climber, known as The Swiss Machine for his numerous speed ascents all over the world, is considered as one of the world’s top mountaineers. Last month he came to the Cordillera Blanca with his wife Nicole to acclimatise in preparation for their trip to the Himalayas where they aimed to climb Mount Shisha Pangma, one of 14 mountains in the world over 8,000 metres, known as eight-thousanders.

During their stay in the Huaraz region Ueli and his wife spent some time rock-climbing at the Hatun Machay forest of rocks in the Cordillera Negra, as well as completing The Sphinx, the classic 1985 route in the Paron Valley. They also successfully climbed some snowy peaks, such as the world-renowned and challenging Alpamayo, and the easier Pisco, and attempted Artesonraju where they got caught in an avalanche. En route to Pisco, Ueli Steck was refused entry into the Huascaran National Park by the park because he couldn’t produce his Alpine Club Membership Card, and he had to send someone back to his hotel in Huaraz to get the card in order to be allowed to enter the park. Usually we criticise people for not doing their jobs properly, however, in this instance we applaud these guards for enforcing the rules.

Did Sharon Stone visit the Callejon de Huaylas last month?

Two independent sources confirmed to The Huaraz Telegraph that Sharon Stone, the American actress, film producer, and former fashion model, recently paid a quick visit to the Ancash region. Although pictures could not be provided by either source, there is reason enough to believe that she actually has visited Peru and Huaraz, although one of those sources confirmed she didn’t actually stay in the city of Huaraz itself. It is believed that after arriving at the airport of Anta (40 km from Huaraz) on an LC Peru flight, Ms Stone was picked up by staff of Cuesta Serena, a high-end lodge complex covering three hectares facing the Cordillera Blanca. This boutique hotel located on the mountain slopes of Anta currently occupies the top spot on Tripadvisor in the category of hotels in Huaraz. According to one source, during her three-day stay in our region, she paid a visit to Laguna Willcacocha, and completed the one-day hike to Laguna 69 with a private guide. While other publications choose to speculate

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on the reasons for her visit, we at The Huaraz Telegraph prefer not to make assumptions, and just hope that she enjoyed her experience and comes back some day.

157th Anniversary of Huaraz celebrated with concerts and many cultural activities

The Provincial Municipality of Huaraz prepared a full programme of events and entertainment to celebrate the 157th anniversary of the political creation of the province of Huaraz. From the 11th to 30th of July citizens and tourists could enjoy the many activities organised by different institutions, universities and the municipality, including the annual Huaraz Danza, with students of the University San Pedro filling the main street wearing the typical outfits and costumes from all the different places in the region of Ancash.

On Wednesday the 23rd the Municipality of Huaraz organised a community civil marriage ceremony for more than 45 couples. The event took place at the Plaza de Armas. Thoniño Maicol Casimiro and Anada Cecilia Adrián Ariza were the youngest couple at only 21 years of age, and Don Francisco Sanchez Tafur and Apolonia Eleuteria Bernuy Huaman both 73 years old, were the oldest couple who hoped to grow old and happy together.

Also during the festivities, 18-year-old Maria Alejandra Hoyos Sanchez was crowned Miss Huaraz 2014 in a beauty contest that took place on Monday the 21st of July. The evening event, which was organised in coordination with Ruby’s School of Modelling and sponsored by various institutions and organisations in the city, took place at the theatre in the Cultural Centre of Huaraz.

Throughout the anniversary celebrations of Fiestas Patrias, the Municipality of Huaraz also organised an artisan fair, which was set up next to the town hall of Huaraz. The fair, which saw many national and international tourists in attendance, was hailed a success. Among the products on offer there were textiles, jewellery, pottery, and leather belts. The stallholders were happy with the number of visitors at the fair, and everyone benefitted from the pleasant weather conditions.

On the evening of the 24th of July there was a rock concert at the Plaza de Armas, where Pelo D´Ambrosio entertained the crowd, along with Pepe Minaya, El Conjunto Huascaran, Muñequita Dany and Pamela Toro. Some people were unhappy with the lineup, and took to social media asking if this is all the municipality had to offer. A spectacular fireworks display closed the event. All the celebrations were broadcast live on channel three of Cable Andino. The following day there was a civic, school and military parade with public and private institutions, schools and the Peruvian military all taking part. Thousands of citizens turned out to see the parade on the main street of Huaraz.



Expat in Huaraz

The Peruvian dreamAccording to the National Institute of Statistics and Informatics (I.N.E.I) 12,187 foreigners entered Peru in 2012 and stayed for over a year. The Huaraz Tele-graph is wondering whether these visitors came to see the wonders of Peru, or were they looking for the Peruvian dream? If the American dream is the idea that success is possible for every individual, does the Peruvian dream exist? And if so, can you reach for those ideals on the Latin American continent being an expat? It is fairly easy to spot a tourist in Hua-raz, with their tiny day-sacks and camera around their necks, whereas expats blend in; they adapt to the local way of life. But what motivates a person to uproot their entire lives, and leave their family and friends to go and live on another conti-nent? Over the course of the season The Huaraz Telegraph will endeavour to inter-view expats living in Huaraz, to give the readers an insight into why they decided to do just that. But first let’s look at some interesting statistics.

Although the following stats are accu-rate there is no statistical information on how many foreigners live in the Áncash region.

In the period from 1994 to 2012, there were 89,320 registered foreigners resid-ing in Peru that did not leave the country. Between 1994 and 2004 the number of foreigners entering Peru did not exceed 3,500, and between 2004 and 2006 the number of foreigners living in Peru did not exceed 5000. From 2007 the num-ber increased to over 6,000 and in 2012 that number had risen to a staggering 12,187. It´s important to mention that, even though Peru has a law stating that visitors can only stay up to a maximum of 183 days a year, after one year Gringos are considered immigrants in the Repub-lic of Peru, be it legal or illegal.

There is no denying that the number of immigrants has increased over the years and between 2007 and 2012 there were

When analysing the gender of the new-comers it´s remarkable that the popula-tion of males is by far bigger than the opposite sex. Men represent 66.8% of the immigrants while only 29,636 (33.2%) are female. Since 1994, men have rep-resented more than 60% of the immigra-tion population, but in 2012 they reached 70.9%.

In the document found on the I.N.E.I website the distribution of foreign mi-grants is also represented by age group. A chart shows that the predominant age group is the 30 to 34 year-olds represent-ing 12.2 % of all immigrants. Immigrants from 35 to 39 years of age characterise 12.1 % during the period from 1994 to 2012. This is followed by the 40 to 44 years old with 11.2%, continued by the group of 25 – 29 years old (10.7%). On the other hand, the highest percentage of immigrants are aged from 15 to 49, representing 68.2 % of all immigrants.

Looking at the gender population pyra-mid, the concentration is in the middle, being narrower at the base and that there is an increase in the first and last group. Immigrants aged under 15 count for 6.8% and are distributed almost evenly be-tween men (3.7 %) and women (3.1%). People older than 59 years of age repre-sent 10.3% and are distributed between 6.3% men and 4.0% women. Of the total number of 83,628 immigrants over 14 years of age, 33.7% are declared to be single whereas 199 people are said to be widowed, and 98 are divorced.

Between 1994 and 2012, 89,320 foreign-ers were considered to be new residents of Peru without any migration movement noticed and just before the document starts to talk about the country of origin, it mentions that 69,277 people (represent-ing 77.6%) have come to Peru by air, entering the country at Jorge Chavez Na-tional Airport. A small 8.6% entered from the south in Tacna (Santa Rosa), 2.3% from Bolivia (Desaguadero), and a 1.4% came from the north, crossing the border

from Ecuador at Aguas Verdes. A total of 3,378 (3.7%) arrived at the harbour of Callao (probably shipwrecked and unable to return home).

The authors of the report declare that there exists a strong concentration of regional immigrants referring to 31.6% of foreigners coming from Latin American countries such as Argentina, Bolivia and Chile. Americans (from the USA) with 12.4% the biggest group of newcomers, followed by the Chinese with 9.3% and Bolivians with 7.8%.

As you just have read, you will need to stay in Peru for over a year to qualify for the status of immigrant. This is also the main condition for our interviewee plus the fact that he or she should live in Áncash, and in this second to last edition of 2014 we conducted the interview with one of the many Swiss living in Huaraz.

1. Who are you?

My name is Heinrich Bosshard, but people will know me better as El Tio En-rique, and I am originally from Zurich in Switzerland.

2. How old are you and what’s your profession?

Ha ha, today is your lucky day because it’s my birthday! I turned 61 today, we should celebrate. Back home I was a heavy-equipment mechanic, but here I have had my own restaurant, and at the moment I am running El Tio Enrique, which is a brand-new establishment sell-ing all sorts of different chorizos (sau-sages), Swiss chocolates, original Swiss knives and Glühwein (mulled wine).

3. How long have you been living in Huaraz?

I have been living here in Huaraz for 27 years, but the first time I came to Huaraz was in 1985 when I came to do some skiing with friends. Huaraz was different

55,616 immigrants representing 62.3% of all registered immigrants in the analy-sis period of 1994 to 2012. To make a small comparison, in the last six years measured concern over 50.0% of the im-migrants from the period of analysis. The period between the years 2001 – 2006 represented 18,499 incoming foreign-ers representing 20.7% of all registered immigrants during the study period, while the years 1994 to 2000 represent 17.0% of total registered immigrants. The num-ber of foreign immigrants in Peru has a greater dynamism in the last years of the study. Until 2003 foreign immigrants did not exceed 20,000, this number doubles in 2007 becoming 40,446, and in 2012 the number of foreign immigrants in Peru rose to 89,320.

Dividing the entry of foreign immigrants into different periods (in years) and hav-ing the estadisticas de la emigración internaticional de peruanos e inmigración de extranjeros 1990-2012 in hand, one can see that the average annual immi-gration per period is becoming a grow-ing trend during the last three periods, except from 2001 to 2003. On average, only 2,357 people crossed the border into Peru between 2001 and 2003. Between 1994 and 2012 the annual average is 4,701 surpassing this in the last two peri-ods 2007-2009 and 2010-2012, reaching average immigration figures from 7,420 and 11,118 respectively, the latter being six times higher than the average income of foreign immigrants of the first period (1994-1997).

All statistics on Peruvian international emigration and foreign immigation by the I.N.E.I on: http://www.inei.gob.pe/media/MenuRecursivo/publicaciones_digitales/Est/Lib1102/libro.pdf

The number of immigrants in Peru is growing by the year (I.N.E.I. stats)



Expat in Huarazback then, a lot greener, hard to compare with the current situation.

4. What brought you to Huaraz?

Like I said before, two years before mov-ing here in 1987, I arrived with six friends to do some mountaineering. And in 1986 I returned, and during that visit I met the mother of my daughter Nataly, and she was the reason for me to return to Hua-raz permanently.

5. How has your life changed over the years?

Well, I have had good times and some really rough times as well, but that’s life in general I guess. I believe not much has changed to be honest; I am still happy, maybe happier now than in the past. I am working hard, enjoying life a lot. I have everything I need, so can’t complain. As most people know, I first sold my sau-sages in the garage down below, where Buena Pizza recently opened, and I have even sold sausages on the streets. In my new establishment we have more space to receive costumers, and we sell differ-ent types of national and international beers. What is new is that we now also sell grilled Argentinean steak and cheese fondue, which is a typical Swiss dish. I am happy with what I have achieved since selling on the street a couple of years ago, now I am renting this second floor, and believe that we are a unique place, although the tourist numbers do worry me a little bit.

6. What are your favourite hangout spots in Huaraz?

Well let’s see. In Huaraz I like to visit cafés, or sometimes I go to Encuentro. I normally go to the top-end places be-cause as a foreigner you are accustomed to a certain level of service and quality of food; the type of service and quality we also try to offer at my place. I frequently have my lunch in the Parque de Ginebra at El Mayolino. I like the café of Dennise a lot as well (La Boquería). I like Abél’s pastries at Rossonero on the main street. I also like to visit Delicia of Pizzeria Bruno and sometimes visit B&B. We go back a long way and share a bond of friendship so we visit each other’s places. I am not such a fan of the recreos outside of Hua-raz. Frequently the service is terrible and there is often maltreatment towards the customers. I prefer to spend my money in the city itself. To be completely honest, I hardly leave this region, I believe once a year I go to Lima, that’s it.

7. What is it you miss the most from back home, and how often do you go back?

I live very well here. There is a certain liberty here, and one can do whatever one wants. If I have to mention some-thing, than it would be the four seasons I miss the most. As you know Huaraz has

only two seasons, a short dry season and a long rainy season. I miss autumn and winter because I like to practice skiing. Well I could also mention the order in general in the city, which is much more organised back in Switzerland, but life is tranquil here, so I can’t complain. I pro-duce my own sausages so I don’t have to go back to Switzerland to eat something I adore. In the beginning I went back to my home county once a year but I haven’t been back in the last 17 years. I went back because of the terrorism situation in Peru, it wasn’t safe back then. So I used to work for three months in Switzerland and then the rest of the time here in Hua-raz. Seventeen years, that’s a long time, maybe too long. I am thinking of going, or let’s say I hope to go to Switzerland in 2015, because I have a grandson that I haven’t met yet.

8. What is it you like most about Huaraz?

As I am Swiss, and was born at high alti-tude as well, basically in the mountains, obviously I like the mountains the most. I don’t like the city itself, but it’s great to see the mountains every day. That never gets boring. People always like to com-pare Huaraz with Switzerland but Huaraz has almost nothing that Switzerland has. With a little bit of more will, things can get done, the question is when? Life is quite, that’s what I like the most.

9. What’s your opinion of the tourist business in Huaraz?

Well, this will not be a surprise but tour-ism is not what it used to be. I believe one of the factors is climate change and global warming. There are more difficul-ties and risks when going to the moun-tains. This is the reason that the big groups from abroad, who used to visit Huaraz for months, are not visiting us anymore. After reaching the summit, they used to celebrate until the early morning at different places in the city. This doesn’t happen anymore, which is a shame. Ad-ditionally, Huaraz hasn’t invested much in infrastructure either for the past 15 years. On the contrary, there are less parks and green areas in the city. I remember when there were trees on the high street (Ave-nida Luzuriaga), a mere 25 years ago! Sure! Then one day some mayor decided that the main street should be a double lane street so they cut down all the trees. I guess it has much to do with something called in Spanish pensar diferente (to think differently). Not everything is bad. Some hotels and agencies offer a good service, but there are only a few. Most take advantage of the situation, espe-cially during public holidays like Semana Santa (Easter) and Fiestas Patrias (Peru-vian Independence Day).They shouldn’t do that. I have seen many national tour-ists during Fiestas Patrias but hardly any international tourists. I believe since eight or maybe ten years ago visitor numbers have fallen in terms of mountaineers and

parents and grandparents, not in school, or college. As we say in German: ´andere Länder andere Sitten´ (other countries other customs). There are certain things we have to accept and there are certain things we can do better. I believe we shouldn’t only be critical, we should act. 12. Are you living the Peruvian dream (explain)?

Well, in some respects I am, because here in Peru you can establish and realise something with very little money. This is not true of Europe, but with a little bit more creativity this place would look very different. I have realised things that wouldn’t have been possible in my home county like the pub MonteRosa I used to manage. I set that up with little money available, and you can’t say it wasn’t a success. I ran that place for over 21 years but unfortunately this adventure ended. But I stood tall and have now started a new business called El Tio Enrique. You could call this a dream but it’s nowhere near the American dream people lived back in the 60s having a property with several hectares. The world has changed. If I didn’t like it here I wouldn’t be living here! There are good things and bad things; you just have to make the best of it and sometimes you have to close your eyes to things.

13. How do you see your future in Hua-raz?

I have thought about it. Business-wise I hope of more tourism in Huaraz. Per-sonally . . . that will depend on the next woman in my life (laughing). No that’s a lie don’t write that down, (still laughing). Health is the most important thing. I still want to change a couple of things in my establishment so I am not done yet. I like Peru a lot so I hope to get old here, maybe not Huaraz, but at least some-where in the Southern Hemisphere. One easily gets used to the easier lifestyle here, and what opportunities are open to man of my age in Switzerland? Now I am very curious how this interview will come out! The Peruvian Dream, good name for an article. Are there still ex-pats left to interview?

adventure tourists. Don’t forget, and I have already mentioned this if I am not mistaken, the weather conditions are not the same either as ten years ago. From May to August there used to be not one single cloud in the sky, not to mention rain. This year it is extremely different, although it doesn’t rain in the city, it does rain a lot in the mountains, which makes mountaineering very difficult and risky. Just look out the window, if the mountains have clouds around them, it means it’s either raining or foggy.

10. What sites or activities do you recommend (or not) to our readers?

Well, in most cases tourists know bet-ter than I do what to do or not to do in Huaraz, as they will use their guidebooks or the internet. The majority come to do hiking or mountaineering I believe. We all know that in Huaraz there is almost noth-ing to do as we are culturally a bit limited, unfortunately. When one cannot go to the mountains, Huaraz is a bit boring for a tourist. But not for me, because I know where to hide (laughing out loud)!

11. If you were to become the Mayor of Huaraz one day, what would you do or change?

Let me first state that I have absolutely no interest in becoming neither mayor nor a politician because I believe this is a pro-fession not so pleasant to execute. There are, however, things that have to be re-alised. In one of your previous questions I have already mentioned this, Huaraz needs more green spaces. I believe that at the Plaza de Armas it says: paraíso natural (natural paradise), but I don’t see anything natural in the city. Everything around us is made of concrete, and thus not so nice to see. I would also try to mo-tivate the people to respect the little they have. Remember when the Municipal Government of Huaraz placed big brown flowerpots with little trees in them? The pots are still there but the trees are gone. Either stolen or split in two parts. On the other hand, I don’t think that those trees would have survived much time in those pots anyway. In many countries children learn respect and manners from their

The Huaraz TelegraphEl Tio Enrique from Switzerland standing behind his grill has all kinds of sausages on offer


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Volunteering

Volunteering requires mental and physical preparation as well as professional commitment, and The Huaraz Telegraph salutes and applauds people who give their time willingly to help others, and as such are proud to be able to provide these organisations with some free exposure to let people know what they do, and how they can help. There are numerous organisations operating in the region, working with children, families and entire communities, providing support, education, nutrition, and in some cases, much needed fun.

The whole point of this article is to inform people about the organisations operating in and around Huaraz, offering positions to individuals or groups willing to donate their time and money to help those less fortunate. As a result we felt it appropriate to include those organisations who felt they had been wronged by The Huaraz Telegraph. It is not our intention to antagonise these organisations by including them in the article; it is simply our duty as an impartial publication to offer readers a list of available volunteer options in an unbiased and open manner.

In the United States, it is customary for organisations to charge people for volunteering making it quite expensive. In and around Huaraz there are different places offering volunteer positions. Some are Non-Governmental Organisations (NGOs), and are funded by the government, foundations, civil donations or businesses; others appear to be family-run businesses. As a potential volunteer you want any money you pay to go directly to those in need so do your research beforehand. Contact the businesses, organisations and NGOs offering volunteer positions to see if they are legitimate and whether you think you would like to make a contribution to one of their programmes or projects.

The goal of The Huaraz Telegraph is to give the reader an insight into what options are available, the differences between short- and long-term volunteering, and the differences in contributions to society, so we contacted each organisation to enquire about what they do, what volunteer opportunities they have available, how much they charged, and relevant contact information. In the instances where we have had to refer to the organisations’ websites, all information was correct at the time of going to print. Prices, projects and conditions are subject to change, as

is the information on the organisations’ websites. The Huaraz Telegraph accepts no responsibility as a result of these potential changes.

When prices are mentioned in US Dollars, we used a 2.77 exchange rate to convert to Peruvian Nuevos Soles. To avoid any suggestion of preferential treatment we have listed them in alphabetical order.

Andean Alliance

Diana Morris, who hails from Calgary, Canada was unwilling to offer any information about her organisation to The Huaraz Telegraph so we have taken the pertinent pieces from the Andean Alliance website, (again, all information was correct at time of printing).

Andean Alliance was founded in 2003 by two Canadians Wayne Lamphier and his wife Diana Morris, and is a Peruvian Non-Governmental Organisation, ¨focused on supporting ¨grass roots¨ community development planning capabilities and implementing programs that strengthen the educational and economic base of Andean communities while enhancing their social and environmental conditions.¨

Andean Alliance are offering two long-term (6 – 24 months) volunteer positions in the Yurac Yacu, located eight kilometres from Huaraz, close to the entrance of the Quebrada Llaca. They are looking for a community centre project coordinator, and a café manager. Applicants must be able to speak Spanish, have experience setting up, administering and promoting a small business, as well as good leadership and organisational skills. There are also a number of short-term positions available including: assistant education coordinator/teacher, community small business assistant, and sports coordinator.

The volunteering fees depend on the length of time committed to the project, the applicant’s skill-set, and ability to fund raise. People who have an interest in volunteering or would like to know more about the programmes available with Andean Alliance should contact Diana Morris directly at: [email protected]. For up-to-date information and an application form visit: www.andeanalliance.org/application-form.

Centre for Social Well Being

Patricia Hammer, who has a Ph.D. in applied medical anthropology, resides in Carhuaz and is member of the directorship of the Centre for Social Well Being (CSW). She wrote us the following: ¨I picked up your paper for the first time the other day in Huaraz – a nice publication.¨ Later on we sent our questions about volunteering options at Social Well Being, but as we are still awaiting a reply we will give some information gleaned from their website.

Their volunteering programme involves contributing to the environment, and has four aims: education and training, information promotion, community action and sustainability. The website does not indicate if there are any fees for volunteering, but there is an application form that also offers the possibility of joining other programmes like the Alternative Health Programme, and the Spanish Immersion (and/or Quechua) Language Programme.

Just before going to print we received another message from Patricia saying: ¨Sorry for the delayed response, but am very busy at present. With regard to your request for an article on our volunteer programme – we no longer offer that, but rather provide an internship training.¨ Volunteering is however still mentioned on their website at the time of printing.

People wishing to apply for the internship training should contact the Centre for Social Well Being by emailing Patricia at [email protected].

Changes for New Hope

We were contacted by Baltimore native Jim Killon who wrote the following: ¨Just living a dream here. Did you happen to pop into the Cultural Center and check out Changes for New Hope’s art exhibition? Really boosts the kids’ self-esteem and shares our core value message ´Haz lo Correcto-Do the Right Thing´.¨ And he is right because when someone enters the Cultural Centre there is a huge poster calling for attention. The poster has bilingual messages like

Volunteering in and around Huaraz

¨respect each other, respect yourself and compassion in action.¨ Apart from the poster there is indeed a children´s art exhibition. According to their Facebook page ¨Changes for New Hope has been recognized by the United States Embassy, Julian Lennon’s White Feather Foundation, the Mayor of Huaraz, and the Mayor of Independencia, for our work with children, their families and within the respective communities.¨ So what is Changes for New Hope about? This is what we got back from their founder:

Changes for New Hope was created in 2009 by Jim Killon of the United States. After seeing the despair and destitution of children living in impoverishment during his vacations in Latin America several years ago, Jim decided that he wanted to create and develop his project here in Huaraz. Changes for New Hope helps children with academic studies, develops self-esteem and other intrinsic values, provides school materials, clothing, shoes, vitamin and food supplements, personal hygiene supplies, wind-up lights in areas where there is no electricity and thermal space blankets for those cold Andean nights, as well as toys and games for recreation. Currently, Changes for New Hope shares an art exhibition in the Cultural Centre.

Changes for New Hope invites anyone to volunteer providing they have a sense of dedication and compassion. Maturity and a respect for the goals of the project, the children in the communities and themselves are imperative.

If a volunteer is here on vacation and would like to join our project, we can arrange flexible volunteering options such as having them in on certain days or times that would be most convenient. Volunteering should definitely be a part of your journey. Long-term volunteering options are discussed and arranged on a case by case basis. Volunteering is free for people already here in Huaraz, although a contribution to the project’s continual success is appreciated. Changes for New Hope continue to be a small and hands-on NGO by choice and design. Each volunteer is valued and every idea and suggestion is appreciated.

We have marked all businesses, organisations, NGOs on their willingness to provide the information to the reader.

Sabine Honing (top right) is the coordinator of the NGO To be a Child

The Huaraz Telegraph




Volunteering


Jim Killon in the Cultural Centre of Huaraz with an art collection made by children

A person volunteering with us will be able to be immersed and involved in many aspects of our project. The love and appreciation of the children is heart-warming.

There are several choices in Huaraz for volunteering, and most are just as dedicated and sincere in wanting to make this piece of the world a better place. It is just a matter of where you want to focus your time and compassion. Whether it is volunteering with us or another project, we appreciate that you have a heart to help. If you are international volunteers coming directly to us for the express purpose of volunteering, there will be a one-time $ 300 (S/.831.00) volunteering fee. But to those who will be reading The Huaraz Telegraph and are already here, it is free to join us. You can reach us best via email at [email protected]. We are also on Facebook under Changes for New Hope. To learn more about who and what we are you will want to visit our website at www.changesfornewhope.org.

Ka’Way Monti

Ka’Way Monti (Tree of Life) was found in July 2012, and focuses on ¨the need to bring humanity back into balance with nature, and the tremendous capacity for humanity to do good work.¨ Ka’Way Monti has many volunteer projects for people to take part in, including: greenhouse construction and general gardening, and they are always looking for help. Volunteers should be self-motivated and pro-active, mindful and conscientious, and above all a good team player. Founder Chris Dyson sent us this information.

We still continue to accept volunteers who are willing to work to help offset costs of staying up there. However, with KMSS now focusing on natural building projects for paying students and apprentices we do separate the volunteers from the natural building projects.

What we ask is S/.25 per night, as we’re still a new organisation working toward sustainability; we are not at a level of sustainability yet, so this helps us feed those working with us. We ask that you be cool with camping if needs be and we have some gear to loan out for free if you need it. Often times we have beds available which you’re welcome to, so long as it’s not needed by a guest or student. As mentioned above, we’re a very new organisation so we like to help low budget travellers with deals we can offer, but we do need to keep the place afloat as well. We like to think of ourselves as a living laboratory for trying out new ideas on how to live more in collaboration with, rather than domination of, the earth and its inhabitants, so we welcome new ideas, and love to have volunteers take ownership of their work here. That said, we only ask for 24 hours of work a week, since we know you’re also still on vacation. You might be looking to learn, but we know you’re also looking to play.

We have no minimum stay time, we

simply want you be involved while you are here as a volunteer, be it a day or a month. Those who stay longer generally fall in more as family up here like the rest of us, and we always love those who have a great project idea and want to build something new or try something out, so long as it fits in with our vision on a whole. We’re a teeny tiny community, but we are still a community, and so long- or short-term we ask that you help out with some of the menial tasks, and jiving personalities are a great help. Our motto is to be productive but easy going.

Overall, the volunteers we’re actively looking for are interested in learning how to live more sustainably, so that most of the work you’re doing doesn’t feel like work at all. We feel that this is also why we get so many people coming back to do it again, some of them staying for months, and this is why we think you might like coming to volunteer with us as well. Plus we have a tree net that kicks ass and pizza nights in our cob oven every Saturday night. If you’re interested, email me, Chris, at [email protected], or call us on either 948-783-260 for Claro phones, or 959-473-219 for those with MoviStar. You can also check out our website at thehofhostel.com or kawaymonti.org.

Peace Corps – Peru

Part of the American Peace Corps, Peace Corps – Peru has been operating since 2002, and has projects in youth and community development, health, and the environment, run by volunteers who are prepared to give a two-year commitment of service. Their mission is to promote sustainable community development, and friendship between Americans and citizens of host countries. Unlike other organisations in Huaraz, the Peace Corps requires all prospective volunteers to undertake a ten week pre-service training program where amongst other things, participants learn to communicate in Spanish, and how to live and work in Peru. To become a volunteer with the Peace Corps requires dedication, and psychological, physical and emotional commitment, (and an American passport). In Ancash, there are currently about 22 volunteers working on three programmes: environmental management, youth development, and health promotion. The Peace Corp programme should not be entered into lightly. For more information on becoming a volunteer with Peace Corps – Peru visit their website: http://peru.peacecorps.gov/content/about-peru.

Responsible Travel Peru

Annika Bergman, a German volunteer for Respons in Huaraz, was glad to be given the opportunity to have Respons featured in The Huaraz Telegraph. And happily provided the information we requested.

This is an organisation specialised in offering authentic, alternative and unique travel experiences throughout Peru with the mission of developing, stimulating and broadening sustainable tourism. Respons has existed since 2009, and has been working with communities

in the Ancash department since then. However, Respons has been growing fast and now cooperates with around 70 communities throughout Peru. We work hand in hand with those communities, NGOs and small tourism businesses to create tailor-made itineraries fulfilling a bridging function between the tourism sector and community-based projects. Respons offers all kinds of volunteering experiences in different destinations.

One option is to build an improved kitchen stove in Vicos. This two day ‘voluntourism’ programme allows you to improve the health and economic conditions of a selected family in the community of Vicos; one of the most authentic rural communities of the Ancash region. The cocina mejorada is a kitchen stove that uses less wood, and eliminates smoke in the kitchen, improving the health of the family tremendously. In these two days, you will help them build the kitchen stove, which has been partially paid for with your donation. The programme can be offered to individuals as well as bigger groups; ideally, for every four participants one local family is selected to receive an improved kitchen stove. Costs per person (when participating with 4 people), are $ 110 (S/.305). This includes lodging in bungalows with your own bathroom, full meals in Vicos, local guidance throughout the journey (in Spanish), and

the donation of a steel plate and chimney. Not included is the public transportation to Vicos (S/.5), or a translator (optional).

There is an option for a third day where you will participate in a Pachamanca ritual. Pachamanca is a typical dish of the Peruvian Andes where hot stones are used to cook the food underground. A ritual payment to the mountain gods will be made, and the local musicians will teach you about their instruments and music (additional costs: $ 60 or S/.165). Generally, you can combine this volunteering programme perfectly with a longer stay in the community, participate in the daily life in the Andes, do wonderful hikes in the Cordillera Blanca and support local families.

Volunteers can also visit a soup kitchen in Huaraz. This one-day programme offers you the opportunity to get to know a reality of Peruvian life, which often remains hidden for many tourists, participate in one of the two soup kitchens run by the Dutch foundation To Be A Child (Stichting Wees Kind), spending an unforgettable time with the participants of the project, help the cooks, share a typical meal and play with the children. Costs: $ 16 or S/.45, Includes: guidance, lunch at the soup kitchen, donation to the foundation Be a Child, and a little gift as souvenir of your visit.

We have the best organic coffee, expresso and capuchino of Huaraz.

Come and enjoy our fresh natural juices, milkshakes, hamburgers and sandwiches

while using our free wifi on Julian de Morales 828 (Near Nova Plaza)

Continue reading on the next page...



Volunteering

If you are interested in teaching English at a local school please contact us, so that we can get in touch with the school in Vicos and check on current needs. If you can bring materials like, books, magazines, games etc. to share with the students, it is always appreciated. For long-term volunteer positions accommodation and meals can be organised with a local family in Vicos for a small fee.

For more information have a look at their website www.responsibletravelperu.com or Facebook: Responsible Travel Peru, contact them at [email protected], or visit their office at Jr. Eulogio del Rio 1364 just below the Colegio de la Soledad in Huaraz.

Seeds of Hope

Ellen Saville, the international coordinator of Seeds of Hope was very keen to have the organisation mentioned in the newspaper, and sent us the following information.

Seeds of Hope is a local NGO established in 2006 in Huaraz, Peru. Our aims are to empower local children through education, and support low income families to overcome social barriers. We do this by providing a safe and nurturing environment where more than 50 local children can attend the school and receive tuition, nutritious meals and pastoral support. The SOH was set up by director Yuri Chavez, along with two other members Katelyn Kerrigan and Sharon Herkes. The school is run by Professor Mariela along with locals and Peruvian volunteers. The organisation has been successful in establishing an environment where children can succeed academically, develop interpersonal skills, and meet people from all over the world.

We welcome any enthusiastic volunteers who have a positive outlook on life. We are keen to accept volunteers from any background, and if you have any specific skills or interests then then we are always eager to utilise them; whether this be science, dance, cooking or art.

Learning alongside the children about Peruvian culture and their local lives is a key benefit that you will take from this experience.

There are various programs to become involved in at Seeds of Hope. Our nutrition project ensures children eat a healthy meal each day and takes care of the children´s wellbeing. At Seeds hygiene is an important focus for the children, who often do not have access to toothbrushes and toothpaste at home. Therefore, the children brush their teeth and wash their hands before eating, so that a good routine of personal hygiene is maintained. We have also developed a long-term project called paso a paso, which aims to raise the children´s aspirations and build confidence through one-to-one work and support. The children also do daily exercises to improve strength and posture.

Previous volunteers have helped improve the environment of the school, such as painting murals, building fences and other maintenance work. We are hoping to start a garden project in the school so that the children, staff and volunteers can cultivate vegetables, and we can learn about healthy eating together. On a day-to-day basis, we support children in the school through their homework and weekly English conversation classes.

Our funding is limited; therefore, much of our annual budget comes from volunteers. We require S/. 550 monthly or S/. 150 weekly as a volunteer fee. This money goes directly to the children and operational costs of keeping Seeds running. In addition to this, we have an apartment in the heart of the city within walking distance of our school where volunteers can stay. The apartment is fully furnished with two bathrooms, a kitchen, living room, access to a large roof space and laundry facilities. The rent is very affordable for such a central location and includes water, electricity, linen and internet, but does not include food. Pricing for the individual rooms is per month: shared room S/. 400, semi-shared S/.500, and a private room is S/.800. These rooms are subject to availability at the time you wish to volunteer.

You should choose our organization if you are keen to make a difference, work closely with local children and see real seeds of change being planted for a brighter future. If you are interested in coming to work with us, we would love to hear from you. Please contact Ellen Saville, the international coordinator at [email protected]. Alternatively, please look to our website at seedsofhope.pe, like us on facebook.com/seedsofhopeperu, and watch videos on the work we do on youtube.com/seedsperu.

Sembradores Huaraz

Martina Drassl who is the facilitator of the team in Huaraz, and establishes the connections between Italy and Peru wanted to share the following information.

The NGO Sembradores Huaraz works with children, teenagers and sick and disabled people in different districts of Huaraz. The first volunteers from South Tyrol in Italy visited Huaraz 15 years ago, from that moment on the projects have grown. We also have a volunteer group Sembardores South Tyrol/Italia who are responsible for the fundraising, donation reports and also for the preparation of the volunteers. Sembradores Huaraz is made up of six Peruvian employees who, in accordance with the organisation’s vision, develop and realise their own ideas to support Peruvian society. For Sembradores Italia it is important to collaborate with the team of Sembradores Huaraz in an equal, respectful, motivating, sustainable and non-invasive way.

Every year the NGO receives volunteers from South Tyrol (Italy). They have to commit to a minimum of three months, and they have to be at least 18 years old. Before the volunteers leave for Peru they have to participate in a preparation program that includes a presentation of their own motivation, two preparation-seminars, learning Spanish skills, and a two-week trainee program in a social institution.

The volunteers have the opportunity to assists and work in the project. The goal is that they support the Sembradores Huaraz team, by giving inputs and

ideas without invading their own style of working. The volunteers can be part of the children and teenager groups, visit sick persons, and support people with disabilities. They have the opportunity to learn about Peruvian culture, discover customs, and learn to handle difficult situations. Over all it is a great opportunity for a personal development.

The idea of the voluntary service is that the volunteers share time and ideas with the Sembradores Huaraz team, while they live the Peruvian reality, and donate their time and their attention to the people who are involved in the project. They have to pay for their own expenses, such as flight ticket, accommodation, food and health insurance. The volunteers who visit the project in Huaraz are a source of motivation for the Sembradores Huaraz team. The project and the team grow with the fresh energy that the volunteers share. For the volunteers the service can be a life-changing experience. Many young people realised after the service that they could receive more then they shared.

For more information please check out www.facebook.com/SembradoresHuaraz, or call Luisa Tafur Robles who is the coordinator of Sembradores Huaraz on 943543231, or contact them at [email protected]

Semillas de Vida (Seeds of Life)

A little over a month ago, we were informed by American co-founder Jennifer Hrinkevich that Semillas de Vida still gets contacted by tourists who are willing to volunteer, mainly thanks to an article in this newspaper last year. However, we didn’t receive a reply to this year’s email, so we will share the information we received last year.

Seeds of Life are a small, Waldorf-inspired community school located on the outskirts of the city. They are a community of parents from different walks of life, cultures, languages, and economic classes, yet hold similar beliefs regarding what helps children grow into balanced, inspired, informed, and compassionate adults. Semillas has identified their building blocks – their seeds of life – and have come together to create an

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Members of Sembradores Huaraz during the 157th anniversary of HuarazThe Huaraz Telegraph

Volunteering is not all about serious work, it can be fun tooThe Huaraz Telegraph



Volunteeringeducational institution that honours those principles.

What began as a community garden for a few friends living in the shadow of countless 6,000-metre peaks – a practically fairy-tale, natural setting where wholesome, chemical-free, natural food was but a story the elderly folks would tell – came together to work the earth and grow healthy food that they could share between their families.

The founders choose the name Semillas de Vida (Seeds of Life), to capture the wish that the foundation of their children’s lives be harmonious, filled with movement, colour, balance, light, love, crossover cultures, economies, languages, and more. Semillas is now in its third year of operation, and offers kindergarten classes and a multi-grade primary class with foreign children of expats and local children from the community of Unchus. The school and garden function largely due to the gargantuan efforts of parents and volunteers. Semillas de Vida has many projects available for anyone interested in rolling up their sleeves and taking part including gardening, chicken-chasing, construction projects, music or art or anything-else-classes/workshops with the kids, or some other idea you may have for joining in on the fun. According to American co-founder Jennifer Hrinkevich, ¨We’d love to hear from you and see how and where you could fit in. There is no excuse anymore to be bored in Huaraz with such exciting things happening around you. Get in touch!¨ Semillas de Vida can be found on Facebook or contacted directly at: [email protected]. We almost forgot volunteering is free of charge.

Sernanp / Huascarán NP

As readers have seen, there are plenty of short- and long-term options for volunteering in Huaraz. We also found volunteering positions at the National Park Huascarán and sent emails to [email protected], and [email protected]; the email addresses mentioned on the website in the Huaraz section. Last year we were informed by a Mr. Heaton that volunteers are required to commit to a minimum of three months, and as far as we are aware, volunteering for Sernanp is free. If you are interested in volunteering for the National Park Huascarán, you can find more information on their website www.sernanp.gob.pe. The information is only available in Spanish.

Teach Huaraz Peru

A familiy business offering volunteer positions is Teach Huaraz Peru; however, since Luis Delgado the founder and coordinator-in-charge refused to provide us with information about his organisation we have taken the relevant pieces from their website www.teachhuarazperu.org. Established in 2002, Teach Huaraz Peru creates tailored volunteering programs for English speakers to suit a wide variety of interests and skills, while providing them with the opportunity to truly immerse themselves in the Peruvian lifestyle

through homestay accommodation, allowing volunteers to share meals and community life with a local Huaraz family. Dedicated Spanish lessons and private tuition may be arranged for all levels, from beginners interested in learning some Spanish to those of intermediate and advanced levels wanting to develop their fluency, grammar and written skills. There are also a range of cultural activities, which may be enjoyed to learn a new skill, or further develop an existing talent or interest in a uniquely Peruvian way.

A placement fee of $ 210 is payable upon arrival, this covers such things as arrangement and confirmation of your individually tailored volunteer programme; orientation about Huaraz and the surrounding area; organisation of Spanish lessons or tutorials if desired; and 24-hour support from Luis Delgado and his family for the duration of your volunteering program.

Homestay accommodation, food, and board with the Delgado Family will cost $ 110 per week, or $ 420 per month and this includes: three meals a day shared with the family, or the option to prepare your own meals in a separate kitchen at a reduced fee when the volunteer is a complete vegetarian or a vegan; a shopping service for personal items, such as toilet paper, laundry detergent, toothpaste etc., and laundry facilities.

Hourly Spanish lessons are available at a cost of $10 per hour, or there is a two week, 20-hour intensive course personalised to any level for $150.

For more information on Teach Huaraz Peru either visit their website and fill out the application form, alternatively you can call Luis Delgado directly on +51 43 425 303.


The Huaraz Telegraph is also offering volunteer positions. Launched back in 2012 The Huaraz Telegraph prides itself on enriching Huaraz with its first English-language newspaper. The first editions were projected to have no more than 16 pages, but as there was so much to write about, it ended up with 20 pages, including a meeting with the Mayor of Huaraz who was extremely enthusiastic about the project. The Huaraz Telegraph has a number of short-term positions available for English speakers who wish to make a contribution to our paper, such as improving and updating our website, writing articles, liaising with the printing company, proofreading, and helping with distributing and/or promoting The Huaraz Telegraph in the city. It costs nothing to volunteer at The Huaraz Telegraph. Long-term positions range from setting up, executing and analysing surveys, to planning the 2015 editions, investigating expansion possibilities, sponsorship and fundraising. Long-term volunteers can be provided with a room with private bathroom. Are you interested in volunteering for The Huaraz Telegraph? Contact us at: [email protected].

To Be a Child (Wees Kind)

Sabine Honing, from the Netherlands, is the project manager of Stichting Wees Kind in Peru, and was extremely enthusiastic about gaining some exposure in Peru´s best English newspaper, and sent us information about the organisation.

We are a small Dutch charity organisation called Be a Child (Stichting Wees Kind). We are a group of friends who use our professional experience to better the lives of deprived children. Our main focus is helping children in deplorable circumstances in Huaraz and its surroundings; children who cannot lead a normal life due to bitter circumstances. We have been doing that by feeding a few hundred children in several local soup kitchens each day, and by supporting a children’s shelter in a convent in Huaraz, for over ten years. These projects make it possible for the children to Be a Child by providing them with the essentials each child is entitled to: shelter, food, education, and (health) care. As a volunteer for Be a Child it is important that you speak a bit of Spanish, so you are independent (with help of the Peruvian team). If your knowledge of Spanish is not great we can help you arrange classes to improve this during your stay. The minimum age is 21, and it is important that you are independent, and willing to be very active!

Are you interested in short-term volunteering to get to know the projects

of Be a Child in Huaraz? Do you speak some Spanish? If you bring in some goods for the children, or food for the meals, and/or if you can use your skills to entertain or educate the children, you are welcome to help out for a few days.

Sometimes we offer a Dutch volunteer program, for which Be a Child can organise the accommodation and Spanish classes. For this program the fee depends on seasonally differing prices for housing in Peru, and occupation at the projects. If you are interested in a long-term volunteering you can contact us through [email protected] so we can discuss with you what the options are at the time you are interested in. Having people volunteering with Be A Child makes it possible for us to continue our work for a longer time, and help us reach our goal to give the children of our projects a chance at a brighter and better future. And in return you get an unforgettable experience and a lot of smiles and love from the children!

Would you like more information about volunteering for our foundation? Have a look at the website: www.stichtingweeskind.nl or the Facebook page: www.facebook.com/helpperuvianchildren, or send an e-mail to: [email protected]. You can also find us every first Friday night of the month in La Rotonda Pizzeria where we organise a pub quiz with a small contribution of three Soles per person that goes directly to our organisation.



Climbing Events

Sunday July 20th saw the official release of the brand new The Huaraz Climbing Guide. To promote the launch the guidebook’s authors David Lazo and Marie Timmermans from the travel agency Quechuandes, along with newly-founded climbing club CAWAY, and CAISTH organised a bouldering competition on the recently built artificial climbing wall at the Instituto Tecnologico Eleazar Guzman Barron in Shancayán.

The competition was a resounding success with 43 climbers from Brazil, Ecuador, Spain, France, Austria, Germany, Israel, and of course Peru, taking part. The high quality and varied routes designed by famous Spanish climber Toti Vales, and his friend Bernat Vilarrasa – who have worked on IFSC world cup competitions – made sure the crowd was constantly entertained, and the competitors sufficiently challenged.

The venue was the brand new artificial wall at the Instituto Tecnologico Eleazar Guzman Barron, which was inaugurated last April, and a welcome addition to the city for climbing enthusiasts in Huaraz. The much needed climbing wall was built thanks to the great efforts of students from the institute.

Until recently Huaraz, despite being known as Peru’s adventure capital and offering the best climbing spots in the country, only had a few very small climbing walls available, none of which are suitable for any big competitions. Whereas Lima has at least five good-sized climbing walls, including the country’s largest Pirqa, and the brand new Top 30 wall in Callao.

A complete lack of interest, and the inability of the local government, and the majority of local businesses to see the importance of climbing is the reason why Huaraz has been left in the dark ages for too long. But the competition’s organisers hope that with such events, and the release of Peru’s first ever climbing guidebook, Huaraz will no longer be left so far behind.

A lot has happened in Huaraz’s climbing community in the past year. A group of students came up with a brilliant idea to build an artificial climbing wall as part of their graduation project and they managed to make it a reality, a quality guidebook was released, great competitions are a more regular occurrence, and new climbing clubs such as CAWAY and CAISTH are being formed. Let’s hope that people will take note, and things will keep going moving forward as well as up!

In an interview with the project manager of the climbing wall, and one of the event’s organisers, Jhon Cuenca Blas, we found out more about the project and how it became a reality.

How did the idea of building a climbing wall come up?

As students we were always looking for things to do during our 30-minute break. Most of the time we just sat around doing very little, until we realised that not only did we need something to entertain us, but we could also do with something to help improve our skills as professionals. It wasn’t until it became time to graduate that we came up with a concrete plan. After my individual graduation project was rejected by the teachers, I got talking with a fellow student who was in the same position regarding his graduation project and we came up with the idea of a group graduation project, in which we would build a climbing wall. We thought it was a great idea as it would be a worthwhile and durable project for the institute, something that future students could actually benefit from, something that would really make a difference.

What expectations do you have for the future of the climbing wall?

What we are hoping to really achieve with this project is that students from the institute will get better training and as a result be better prepared for their careers as guides. The idea is to create a new generation of guides with higher technical skills in climbing and handling systems; guides that are not content with just relying on their training at the institute, but who look to really excel as professionals. I think this project gives them a basis from which they can make this goal more realistically achievable. We are also planning to organise more climbing competitions to motivate young people to take part in the sport.

We also asked some climbers who took part in the competition for their thoughts.

Andrea Malca Wong, competitor from Lima:

¨Last weekend I had the opportunity to participate in the bouldering competition organised by Quechuandes. The competition had very well thought-out routes, where you had to use a combination of strength, technique, and ability to read the route in order to reach the top the best way possible. I also wanted to congratulate Quechuandes for the wonderful guide The Huaraz Climbing Guide, the first ever guide to rock climbing in Peru, a super interesting, nice looking and comprehensive guide to climbing in Huaraz.¨

Rosario Obregon, competitor from Huaraz:

Ï came late to the competition on July the 20th with little expectations. I was full of tension and sadness after saying goodbye to a dear friend who passed away. I thought it was just going to be one competition, but on arrival I quickly realised this was going to be very different. I was pleasantly surprised and

full of motivation seeing the great number of competitors and spectators, not only Peruvian climbers from Huaraz and Lima, but also, surprisingly, climbers from much more remote parts of Ancash. I was amazed by the quality of the organisation, the care provided in this competition and especially the warmth extended to every climber. And for once there were many female climbers, that really made my day because usually there are only three or four! Now that there are more competitions, it’s great, because it motivates you to get better. For me this competition was the best experience in every aspect, dissemination, organisation, and the kindness of the organisers given to each of us who were present. Personally I think that is how competition should be in order to ensure people keep motivated, and for the climbing community to get bigger. I want to say thank you and congratulations to the organisers.¨

Alvaro Lafuente, competitor from Spain:

Ï have come from Spain to do some mountaineering in the wonderful mountains around Huaraz, and also to have a laugh and make friends during the rest days. Huaraz for me at this time is an ideal place to take part in a bouldering competition, where people from many countries, and locals, get together. This makes the competition varied, with plenty of different climbing styles and ways to solve the problems that Spaniards, Toti and Bernat with Cesar and David from Huaraz prepared for us. It’s a nice memory, among many that we will take back to Spain. The competition was enlivened with a good local DJ, there was a first qualifying round with four beautiful blocks that left six participants from each category to qualify for the final. At lunchtime, we were offered a good meal to regain our strength, good beer and good dessert. The final was held in the spotlights and the cold of the night. More important than winning the prizes, for me personally was to see the faces of the audience, who were so involved

and applauded the participants with such enthusiasm. Definitely a good day to remember, where we made some great friends and where we all had a wonderful time.¨

Karina Lingan, competitor from Lima:

Ï am very happy to have participated in the competition; it was excellent, with good blocks and brilliant organisation. It is very rare to have so many girls competing, both Peruvian and foreign, and that’s something that motivates us a lot as it helps us to increase our level of climbing, and encourages more women to start climbing and competing. I am grateful to the organisers and sponsors for providing free bus tickets and accommodation. Many congratulations also for The Huaraz Climbing Guide, the first guide to climbing sites in Peru, it is very well done and will tremendously help the promotion of climbing in Huaraz, it is an essential book for any lover of the sport. I’m so looking forward to the next competition in Huaraz, and I’m already planning to come back soon.¨

A total of 43 male and female climbers and many more spectators participated the event


The Huaraz Climbing Guide launched in style with a competition on the recently opened

climbing wall in Huaraz

The Huaraz TelegraphAlvaro Lafuente from Spain in action



Tourist InformationPlaces of interest

around HuarazHere we present a guide to the villages around Huaraz in the Callejon de Huaylas and Conchucos. Most of them are easily accessible by microbus (colectivo). Ask your hostel owner or landlord where to catch the colectivos in Huaraz.

The Conchucos area

The Callejon de Conchucos, which runs almost parallel to the Callejon de Huaylas to the east of the Cordillera Blanca, is less accessible and, therefore, less frequented by visitors, but it is equally beautiful. The Callejon de Conchucos is known mostly for the old Chavín de Huántar Ceremonial Complex. It offers a variety of off-the-beaten-path villages complemented by local festivals, typical music and customs. Take enough cash because most villages in the Callejon de Conchucos have no ATMs.

San Marcos (2960m)

San Marcos is located nine kilometres north of Chavín de Huántar, in the Mosna valley. Here you can expect basic tourist services as well as spectacular mountain-biking options. The Mosna Valley is also known as Magnolia Paradise because of the many flowers that enrich the area. At the nearby Antamina mine you could find fossilised remains of dinosaurs.

Huari (3150m)

The province capital is located 152km from Huaraz; about four hours by public transport. It is famous for its gastronomy and the María Jiray Waterfall. Seven kilometres from Huari is Lake Purhuay which also offers camping, trekking and mountain-biking facilities. Also worth visiting is the archaeological centre of Marca Jirca.

Chacas (3359m)

Less-known hikes to Huari or Yanama are accessible from this little village (Yanama is also the start of the Santa Cruz trek). Chacas offers tourists an excellent opportunity to experience the Andean lifestyle when visiting the main plaza. Flanked by the colourful windows and doors of the white painted houses; many with complex wooden balconies. There is a direct bus route to Huaraz with Transporte Renzo.

San Luis (3131m)

Capital city of the province of Carlos Fermín Fitzcarrald, it will take no less than six hours to reach this township from Cátac. Famous for the archaeological site of Cashajirca located three kilometres north of San Luis, and the beautiful Sanctuary of Pomallucay, this church offers its home to the image of Lord Justice Pomallucay.

Other villages in the Callejon de Conchucos worth considering visiting are Pomabamba, Piscobamba and Llamellín.

Callejon de Huaylas

The Callejon de Huaylas stretches for 150km in the Anca sh Region of Peru with the Santa River running along the valley floor. The Huaylas Valley is more crowded and most conventional tours run over paved roads.

Recuay (3422m)

If you have ever wondered how Huaraz looked before the earthquake of 1970, then visit Recuay. The structure of the narrow streets and adobe houses (houses built from sod) give a good impression. Just before arriving in Requay at the Bedoya Bridge, on the right hand side, starts the 183km road towards Olleros and Huaripampa, which is also the beginning of the Llama Trek towards Chavín de Huántar.

Carhuaz (2645m)

Famous for its local ice-cream and home to a lively Sunday market were countryside inhabitants sell various handicrafts, fruits and typical products from the region such as Manjar Blanco (blancmange).

Marcará (2950m)

This village mainly serves as a drive-through between Huaraz and Yungay. It is famous for its baños termales (hot springs) of Chancos. Weekdays are a lot quieter; at the weekends locals from the surrounding villages descend and the pools tend to become overcrowded. Expect the temperature of the pools to be around 70°C.

Jangas (2825m)

Here lies the parish of Don Bosco, an Italian Roman Catholic priest who in the 1800s established schools and carpentry and woodcarving workshops for orphans and street children. Jangas is a charming village not far from Tarica, and Anta airport.

Tarica (3600m)

This drive-through town is part of the conventional tour towards the Llanganuco Lakes and is best known for its many roadside shops selling handicrafts and potteries.

Yungay (2500m)

This is where tourists get the best views of the Huascarán, which is the highest mountain in Peru. Nowadays the old city of Yungay is a national cemetery because of the earthquake of 1970 that hit central Peru – killing 25,000 people in the city alone. The new town was rebuilt 1.5km north of the destroyed city. Yungay has the best access to the Llanganuco Lakes, Laguna 69 and Yanama where you could start the Santa Cruz trek.

Caraz (2250m)

Caraz is 32km from Paron Lake, the largest lake in the Cordillera Blanca, and is surrounded by 15 snowy peaks. Canyon del Pato – a rock formation formed by the movement of the Cordillera Blanca – is also in this region.

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Tourist Information

The Cordillera Blanca offers countless opportunities for trekkers and climbers, as well as for people not so keen on physical activities. The wonderful lakes and glaciers of the White Range are easily accessible from the town of Huaraz. Here is a quick guide to the best activities around Huaraz.

DAY TRIPS

Daily sightseeing tours

These tours are great for those of you who are not so active, or who need to acclimatise before heading out into the mountains.

LLANGANUCO – This tour visits the villages in the Huaylas Valley (Carhuaz, Yungay, Caraz), and the beautiful Llanganuco Lake. Be aware that you will only spend from 40 minutes to one hour at the lake and spend much time at places of little interest. Departs every day. Alternatively you can visit the lakes independently, taking a taxi from Yungay, that way you can take full advantage of the lakes.

CHAVIN DE HUANTAR – This tour takes you to Chavin, a village situated on the other side of the Cordillera Blanca in the Conchucos Valley. Here you can visit the Chavin de Huantar UNESCO World Heritage site, featuring some of the oldest and most significant pre-Inca ruins in Peru. You also make a stop at the lovely Lake Querococha along the way. Departs every day except Mondays when the ruins are closed for maintenance.

PASTORURI – This tour visits the southern section of the Cordillera Blanca, with the amazing Pastoruri glacier, which is still well worth a visit despite having lost 40% of its ice in recent years. You can’t help but be impressed by the huge ice cliffs and the Puya Raimondii – a rare 12m high bromeliad plant which you visit on the way to the glacier. Make sure you become acclimatised before going on this tour as the glacier is at 5000m. Departs every day.

Day hikes

These hikes are perfect for those needing to acclimatise before a trek, or for those with limited time.

LAKE CHURUP, 4485m – This is one of the closest and easily accessible hiking routes from Huaraz, leading to a very beautiful turquoise/emerald green coloured glacial lake. It can be quite challenging as there are some steep sections, and there is a rock wall before the lake which you need to scramble up to (there are wires to help you up). It can be tricky in the rainy season when the rock is wet and incredibly slippery, so be careful. It is recommended not to hike alone; for those of you with limited hiking experience it is advisable to go with a guide, as he will carry a rope that will help you go up and down the rock wall safely. For experienced hikers a guide is not necessary as the path is easy to find. The trailhead at Llupa can be easily reached

by public transport.

LAKE 69, 4550m – This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful hikes in the Cordillera Blanca. Located in the northern section of the national park. From Huaraz it’s roughly a three hour drive to the trailhead (Cebollapampa), the journey is incredibly scenic with great views of Mount Huascaran and the Llanganuco Lakes. The hike is of moderate difficulty, but can be challenging for those with limited acclimatisation. You can reach the trailhead by public transport, but finding transport to get back can prove very difficult, so it is recommended to hire private transport from Huaraz. For those with hiking experience a guide is not necessary as the path is clear. The lake is stunning for its pristine blue colour, and its fantastic location at the foot of the mighty Mount Chacraraju. You are rewarded with awesome views of the Cordillera Blanca’s highest summits during the hike.

LAKE LLACA, 4470m – This is one of the closest lakes to Huaraz. It takes two hours by private transport to reach the trailhead at the Llaca refuge. From there it is a short hike to reach the lake. The lake is not as stunning as others in the region, but it is a good option for those wishing to acclimatise with limited effort and time. It is possible to do ice climbing here, but the ice walls tend to be full of sand.

TREKKING

Easy to moderate treks

SANTA CRUZ TREK (four days) – Undoubtedly the Cordillera Blanca’s most famous and popular trek. It is suitable for novice hikers, but good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. This trek deserves its fame; offering varied scenery and endless views of majestic snow-capped peaks, jewelled glacial lakes and gorgeous Andean valleys. For those with ample experience of trekking at high altitude, this trek is doable without a guide, but be sure to follow the national park rules especially to carry all your rubbish out of the park. Ask in town for directions before heading out, as although easy to follow, the path is not signposted. Departures for this trek in an all-inclusive organised group run daily in high season, but standards vary from one company to the next. The trek can be completed in three or four days, but if you do it in three days you will miss the side trip to the Alpamayo base camp and Lake Arhuaycocha, which is undoubtedly one of the trek’s highlights.

OLLEROS – CHAVIN TREK also known as LLAMA TREK (three days) – A less popular trek, it mainly crosses vast expanses of puna, following ancient pre-Inca and Inca paths that lead to the village of Chavin. There are no glacial lakes and few snow-capped mountain views during this trek, but you will come across isolated communities.

Moderate to challenging treks

QUILCAYHUANCA – COJUP TREK (three days) – A stunning trek which goes through some less-visited, but none the less stunning valleys of the Cordillera Blanca. It is a much tougher trek than the Santa Cruz for two reasons. First there are no donkeys to carry all the equipment, so you will have to carry a backpack weighing around 15kg (the weight depends on the number of porters accompanying the group). Second, because the pass is much higher. At 5050m the path leading up to it is very steep, rocky and generally not well trodden. The way down from the pass is even steeper and more challenging. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers who wish to experience peace and tranquillity. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek. Note that some agencies haven taken the habit of doing the trek in reverse, starting in Cojup, in order to avoid the national park control point in Pitec and send uncertified guides. Doing the trek this way is not recommendable as the ascent to the pass from the Cojup side is too challenging for most people.

AKILPO – ISHINCA TREK (three days) – This trek is similar in difficulty to the Quilcayhuanca trek, although donkeys can be used (they do not go over the pass but go back and around). The pass is very high at 5050m and the path leading up to it is steep and not well marked, the descent from the pass is very difficult and potentially dangerous if you go the wrong way. The trek starts at the pre-Inca ruins of Honcopampa, and then goes up the Akilpo Valley through beautiful forests of local quenual trees, before reaching the superb Lake Akilpo just before the pass. Then you go down to the Ishinca Valley. This trek is perfect for fit, experienced hikers looking for an alternative to the Santa Cruz trek. Good acclimatisation is essential before starting the trek.

ISHINCA – COJUP TREK (three days) – This trek is vastly different to all the others, because it includes a glacier traverse requiring the use of equipment such as crampons and ropes. Bringing you much closer to the giant icy peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, the views are simply spectacular. This trek is only suitable for very fit and experienced hikers, but does not require any mountaineering technical knowledge.

Thorough acclimatisation is essential as you will go well over 5000m. It is possible to include a summit climb to Mount Ishinca (5530m) during this trek.

Challenging treks

HUAYHUASH TREK (eight or ten days) – The Huayhuash full circuit trek is considered as one of the world’s most beautiful. It is a trek that requires good physical condition and acclimatisation, because it crosses many high passes (eight passes minimum ranging from 4650m to 5050m) and the campsites are all above 4100m. Trekkers are rewarded with endless breath-taking views of stunning glacial lakes, pristine valleys and icy peaks, which can be extremely close. There are many alternatives possible for the itinerary, but the most common group departures are for the eight day and ten day treks. Those with more time and wishing to explore less visited valleys of the range can do the trek in as many as 15 days, and take the more challenging high trail. Those with limited time can do the four day Mini Huayhuash trek, which visits one of the range’s most beautiful locations: the Lake Jahuacocha area.

CEDROS – ALPAMAYO TREK (seven or ten days) – This trek is less popular than the Huayhuash trek, and also very different, although not less beautiful. It is probably a bit more challenging too, even though the passes are not as high (eight passes on the full circuit ranging from 4400m to 4850m), but the trails leading up to the passes are much steeper. You are unlikely to meet many trekkers and will come across several isolated Quechua communities who still follow a traditional lifestyle.

The highlight of this trek is undoubtedly the view from Jancarurish of Mount Alpamayo, known as the World’s most Beautiful Mountain thanks to its near perfect pyramid of ice. You will not see as many glacial lakes and close-up views of glaciers on this trek as on the Huayhuash trek, but the landscape is much more varied and the isolation a real bonus. The trek can be done in seven days starting in Hualcayan or Huancarhuas and finishing in Pomabamba, allowing one worthwhile rest day in Jancarurish, but take into account that you need a full day to travel back to Huaraz from Pomabamba (night

All you should know about day trips, trekking, mountaineering and bouldering


WARNING FOR TOURISTS:

AVOID THE RATAQUENUA CROSS AND DON´T HIKE FROM THE RUINS OF WILCAHUAIN TOWARDS THE BAÑOS TERMALES IN MONTERREY




Tourist Informationbuses are not recommended due to frequent robberies on this route). For those with more time, you can add extra days by joining on to the Santa Cruz trek at the end, making it a ten or 11 day itinerary if finishing in Cashapampa, or a nine day itinerary if finishing in Vaqueria. The trek can be done in reverse, but it is tougher.

MOUNTAINEERING

Keep in mind that glacier conditions change from year to year, so what was an easy walk across a glacier one year may be a difficult passage through crevasses the following year. So make sure to check the latest conditions in town before setting out on any of these expeditions.

Non-technical climbs

These expeditions are suitable for people with no previous mountaineering experience; however, even though they are often referred to as trekking peaks these expeditions, although not technical, are harder than a trek, due to the fact that you wake up at midnight, walk in the dark and use heavy equipment such as mountain boots and crampons. If you are fit and have experience of trekking at high altitude and want to experience being on a glacier, then one of these peaks is for you.

MOUNT PISCO, 5752m (three days) – This expedition offers some of the best summit views of any peak of the Cordillera Blanca, and for that reason is very popular. Crossing the moraine takes two to three hours and is considered the most challenging part of the expedition. It is possible to include a hike to Lake 69 on the last day.

MOUNT VALLUNARAJU, 5686m (two days) – This expedition can be quite challenging, because no donkeys can be used, you have to carry a 15kg backpack up a steep path to moraine camp on day one. It is very popular due to its proximity to Huaraz making it a short expedition.

MOUNT ISHINCA, 5530m (three days) – This peak is mostly used as an acclimatisation peak for those wanting to climb the higher and more technical Mount Tocllaraju, which is situated in the same valley.

MOUNT TUCO, 5479m (two days) – A very seldom climbed peak, although it offers a relatively short and easy ascent, as well as the chance to see the rare Puya Raimondii plant.

Intermediate level climbs

These expeditions are suitable for people with some mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from altitude sickness.

MOUNT TOCLLARAJU, 6034m (four days) – This expedition is perfect for those who have climbed a non-technical summit previously and want to take the next step in the mountaineering world by trying something more technical. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use of ice axes. The

well as an excellent physical condition. Two ascent routes are possible, either from Lake Paron or from the Santa Cruz Valley.

ROCK CLIMBING & BOULDERING

Rock climbing and bouldering spots are plentiful around Huaraz. All types of climbing, at all levels, with many different types of rock, fantastic views, and no chance to get bored! Check with local climbers or travel agencies specialising in rock climbing for a detailed list of the necessary equipment and help with logistics.

CHANCOS – Located 32km northeast of Huaraz in the foothills of the Cordillera Blanca, Chancos is the perfect place for beginners and climbers with limited experience. After climbing, a good option is to visit the Chancos Hot Springs which are situated an easy ten-minute walk away.

LOS OLIVOS – This is the closest climbing spot to Huaraz, situated only three kilometres from the town centre. It features a large number of equipped sport- climbing routes in five different sectors, as well as several boulders, suitable for climbers with some experience. From here you get an amazing panoramic view of the town of Huaraz and the Cordillera Blanca.

ANTACOCHA – Situated 35km south of Huaraz in the Cordillera Negra it is one of the few places in the area offering long routes with a variety of difficulty levels, suitable for climbers with limited or a lot of experience alike. The 180m high wall towers high above Lake Antacocha. This place offers a magnificent vantage point of the Cordillera Blanca, especially at sunset.

HATUN MACHAY – Located 69km south of Huaraz at 4300m high in the Cordillera Negra, this stunning rock forest is a paradise for rock climbing and bouldering with some 250 equipped sport-climbing routes and countless boulders, suitable for all levels. It is also a great place for hiking, as it offers some amazing viewpoints with views of the Cordillera Blanca, Huayhuash and the Pacific Ocean, as well as many caves with ancient rock paintings and carvings dating back to 10,000BC.

THE SPHINX – Also known as The Colossus of the Andes or “La Esfinge” in Spanish, it is situated 90km northeast of Huaraz in the Paron Valley and is considered to be one of the most amazing granite rock walls in South America, offering a variety of traditional climbing routes with superb views of the snow-capped summits of the Cordillera Blanca surrounding it. Given its extreme altitude (5325m), it is essential to be well acclimatised before setting off on this climb and to have sufficient experience in traditional climbing. It takes an average of three to four days to complete the climb.

Information and photo ´tip of the month´ provided by Marie Timmermans from Quechuandes Travel & Adventure Agency

At an altitude of 3500m, the ruins of Honcopampa are situated 35km north of Huaraz in a beautiful open valley surrounded by the splendid snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, including Mount Copa (6188m), Vicos (5315m), Urus (5495m) and Vallunaraju (5686m) among others. The complex, which dates back to the Recuay and Huari cultures 200AD to 800AD, is one of the biggest archaeological

sites in the Huaylas Valley.

The well-preserved site can be divided in two distinct sectors: the residential sector with elaborate urban buildings, known as Purushmonte, and the ceremonial sector with tombs known as Armapuncu. An easy 40-minute walk heading east brings you to the small but pleasant Yurac Yacu waterfalls at the entrance of the Akilpo Valley. A three hour walk northwest brings you to the village of Vicos, which offers quality homestay, and one hour farther west you can find the Chancos hot springs. These thermal transparent waters of volcanic origin, with temperatures ranging from 75˚C

to 85˚C, are well-known for their medicinal properties.

There are two pools available for public use, one large and one small, both with 33˚C water, and private baths where visitors can set the temperature of the water to their liking, as well as having the option to use plants with medicinal properties for instance: eucalyptus, pepper tree and chamomile, for an extra fee. Undoubtedly the highlight of the place is the seven caves that are dug into the hill and contain natural saunas. Here you can take a steam bath in temperatures ranging from 33˚C to 54˚C; these are good for treating rheumatic and muscular pains, bronchial diseases, etc. Try to avoid going at weekends, because it gets very busy and you may have to

queue for a long time.

TIP OF THE MONTH


relatively short summit ascent makes it a perfect first 6000m+ peak.

MOUNT CHOPICALQUI, 6354m (four days) – This expedition has the same technical difficulty level as Mount Tocllaraju, but it is a more difficult climb due to the much longer summit route and higher altitude. It includes the ascent of two 60m high ice walls requiring the use of ice axes. It offers one of the Cordillera Blanca’s most beautiful ascent routes along its southwest ridge.

Technical climbs

These expeditions are suitable for people with plenty of technical mountaineering experience. It is recommended to climb a 5000m+ peak before starting any of these expeditions in order not to suffer from altitude sickness.

MOUNT ALPAMAYO, 5947m (seven days) – This is a serious and technically challenging expedition requiring the ascent of a 470m high ice wall. Excellent crampon and ice axe techniques are essential. Please note that the ascent from base camp to high camp is particularly challenging, given that you need to climb up a 60m high ice wall (at a 55 degree incline), carrying your backpack. Known as the World’s Most Beautiful Mountain, each year Alpamayo attracts many mountaineers from the world over.

MOUNT ARTESONRAJU, 6025m (five days) – This is a mentally, physically and technically demanding climb requiring the ascent of a 600m high ice wall, at an incline of 50 degrees. Excellent crampon and ice axe techniques are essential, as

The complex dates back to the Recuay and Huari cultures 200AD to 800AD

HONCOPAMPA & CHANCOS


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