August 2011 Digital Supp Docs(1)

8/3/2019 August 2011 Digital Supp Docs(1)

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Bud Motrys tips for pouring babbitt bearings

August 2011 Digital Supplement

www.GasEngineMagazine.com


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For more than 25 years, the Coolspring Power Museum in Coolspring, Pa.,

has been recognized or housing the worlds fnest collection o early and

historically signifcant internal combustion engines. Designated a MechanicalEngineering Heritage Collection by the American Society o Mechanical

Engineers, the museum boasts a collection o more than 250 engines in 20buildings, 40 o which are profled here in a museum overview edited byGas Engine MagazinesChristian Williams.

I youve visited the museum beore, youll appreciate the unique selection

o engines profled here. And i youve never had the opportunity to visit

Coolspring personally, youll simply be amazed to discover the incredibleselection o historically important and technically ascinating engines,

preserved or engine lovers everywhere in the most amazing museum o itskind in Coolspring: Discovering Americas Finest Antique Engine Museum.

$19.95Item # 5442

Mention promo code: MGEINB82

(866) 624-9388www.FarmCollector.com/Shopping

For the frst time, a detailed step-by-step guide to stationarygas engine restoration has been written or engine enthusiasts.

From start to fnish, Peter Rookes newly revised, easy-to-ollownarrative will impress and educate both new and experienced

hobbyists with exhaustive coverage o the process.

In 112 pages, Rooke meticulously leads you rom stripping anengine through rebuilding each component rom bearings to

cylinder head to ignition. Tips along the way cover everythingrom repairing damaged threads to removing rust and zinc plating.A new chapter on building your own magneto charger has beenadded to this newly revised edition o Gas Engine Restoration.

Call (866) 624-9388 or visit

www.FarmCollector.com/ShoppingPlease mention promotion code MGEINB81 when ordering


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Hit-and-Miss

W

elcome to the premier

issue of GEM Extra, ourdigital supplement of fresh con-tent offered between each printissue ofGas Engine Magazine.

If youre reading this, thenyouve received the weeklye-mail newsletter, and have suc-cessfully downloaded the GEMExtra PDF packet. Whether youread these pages on your com-puter or by printing and staplingthem to read as a conventionalmagazine, we hope you enjoythe additional content. Whilenothing compares to openingyour mailbox and finding thenewest issue of Gas EngineMagazine in its printed glory,we think this is the next bestthing to receiving the magazineon a monthly basis.

Following a looser formatthan the printed magazine, each

issue ofGEM Extra will feature

reader-submitted stories as wellas articles that utilize our exten-sive 45-year archive, discuss-ing everything from companyhistories to amazing engine res-cues to articles on maintenanceand repair. Because were notbound by printing rules andparameters, well be able torun photos and illustrations thatsimply arent a high enoughresolution to run in the maga-zine. That also means we can bemore creative with artwork for astory, so if you have a story toshare but no photographs, feelfree to send it to us and wellsee what we can do.

GEM Extra will start outsmall, but depending on theamount of story submissions wereceive from readers, it couldget larger. If youve been inter-

ested in submitting a story about

your engines, or have photos ofan engine show you recentlyattended, send them to associ-ate editor Christian Williams [email protected]. And if the photos passmuster with our productiondepartment, well be sure to getyour submission in line to run inthe magazine.

Thanks for giving GEMExtraa try, and if theres anything wecan do to improve it, just let meknow.

Christian WilliamsAssociate Editorwww.gasenginemagazine.com

GEM Extra Digital Supplement - August 2011 1

Welcome to GEM Extra!

In this issue ofGEMExtra:

Sanduskys Finest: Circa-1910 10 HP Ohio is an older but lasting restorationby Christian Williams 2

Show Reports: New York-built engines featured at Coolspring Summer Expoby Paul Harvey 4

One Sweet Schmidt: 1-1/2 HP Schmidt receives a sharp makeoverby Richard Rulon 7

Repair & How-To: Bud Motrys tips for pouring babbitt bearingsby Bud Motry 10

On the cover:

Jerry Balvins circa-1910 10 HP Ohio.Read more on Page 2.

In the Oct./Nov. 2011 GEM: Subscriber copies ship Sept. 16

Part 2 of Chris Jerueslook at the historyof Ingeco engines.

Collector has fun andsaves money by mak-ing his own mixer.

Jim Whites customengine made fromspare parts.

The Case of theRock Island and theMissing Piston.


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2 Gas Engine Magazine

Jerry Balvins Circa-1910 10HP Ohio is one of those gasengines thats been around theblock. I picked it up in Texasfrom a guy, and he got it up inIllinois, says Balvin. It passedaround the circuit up there fora while.

Ready to run

When Jerry got the Ohiohome, there wasnt much forhim to do other than clean it upa bit. While its been repainted,Jerry estimates its been sometime since the engine needed amechanical restoration. I thinkit was done up from originaland then never changed, saysJerry. Its an older restoration probably 25 years ago. I knowthe guy who had it previouslyand it was restored then. Jerry

also notes that the cooling tankis an original copy from thebooks hes looked at.

Set apart from the restAs far as unique features,

Jerry likes the Christmas treeoiler on top of the engine. Ituses one oiler to feed every-thing, says Jerry. Thatsunique and is an Ohio featurethat you dont see on a lot ofother engines. Compared toLarry Luckes 10 HP Ohio onpermanent display at the CampCreek Threshers show groundsin Waverly, Neb., Jerry noticed

that his engines magneto runsoff the cam whereas Larrysengines magneto is flywheeloperated. But those differences

aside, Jerry says that his Ohioemploys a lot of the featuresused on other higher qualityengines, including a well-madesideshaft.

Jerry isnt sure what theOhio did while in service, buthe does have the sub-base,which tells him that it was origi-nally a stationary engine.

Contact Jerry Balvin at 3344

Highway V18, Chelsea, IA 52215.

By Christian Williams

Circa-1910 10 HP Ohio sportsan older but lasting restoration


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Editors note: Do you havea show report youd like toshare? Send your article andshow photos to associate editorChristian Williams [email protected].

By the time this is being read,the big Summer Expo atCoolspring Power Museum willbe a pleasant memory. This yearthe Museum featured enginesbuilt in the state of New York, andwe had a fine showing. Many rareand interesting ones filled theexhibitors field and, joined withthose of the Museum, provideda great display. In all, everyoneseemed to have a great time, andwe were blessed with another

safe event.Of course, Coolspring shows

are always known for having rainand this year was no disappoint-ment! Thursday afternoon sawone very hard shower, but spiritswere not dampened too much,and the rest of the weekend was

bathed in warmsunshine.

The groundswere completelyfilled with engineexhibitors whowere displaying

their prize NewYork engines aswell as manyother fine dis-plays. The fleamarket was fulland saw brisktrading of partsand goodies.Evenings werespent in the Museum buildingswatching many engines beingstarted and run. Friday evening

was special with a spaghetti din-ner at the Coolspring CommunityCenter followed by a special pre-sentation on the George Pohlengine held at the CoolspringPresbyterian Church. To concludeFriday evening, Museum volun-teers started several of the large

engines. What anevening! Overall, itwas a good showwith everythinggoing so well and

much fellowshipbeing shared.As at every

show, I am alwayssurprised to seeso many enginesthat I have neverseen or heard ofbefore. It makes a

very enjoyable learning experi-ence to chat with the owners oftheir unique prizes and see them

operate. So here are some of thegreat and unusual engines thatwere displayed during our show:

Clark BobcatTom Miller of Knapp Creek,

N.Y. brought his two-cycle ClarkBobcat engine. This engine is40 HP and was built by ClarkBros. of Olean, N.Y., in the early1940s. Clark is now owned byDresser-Rand and still makes aline of heavy duty engines for

stationary use. Tom is an oilproducer and actually used thisengine on one of his leases untilthis spring when he decided toreplace it with a more modernunit. I think that he had enoughof the manual starting in coldweather! Now it makes a greatshow piece and runs so well.

Early MyrickAnother neat engine I spotted

was a very early sideshaft Myrick

By Paul Harvey

Show Reports

New York-built enginesfeatured at Coolspring

Coolspring Summer Expo, June 16-18, 2011

Tom Miller of Knapp Creek, NY, about to start his40 HP Clark Bobcat engine built in Olean, NY.

A very early Myricksideshaft built inOlean, NY.


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engine, also built in Olean, NY.About 1915, Myrick Machine Co.settled on building a line of smallvertical, air-cooled engines andpump jacks. They lasted into theearly 1950s with that design. Thisunique early Myrick belongs to EdKuntz of St. Marys, Pa. It is the

only one known.

WestinghouseA portable Westinghouse

engine that was on display isextremely rare and very wellrestored. Built in Schenectady,N.Y., it starts easily and runs well.It was built in the 1890s by thefather of George Westinghouse,who was known for his train airbrake design. George built agreat empire in Pittsburgh, Pa.,

building all kinds of heavy equip-ment and electrical devices.

4 HP MyrickAnother fine engine I saw

was the durable 4 HP MyrickEclipse engine built in Olean,N.Y. These were used exten-

sively on single well pumpingunits, and Myrick also built thepump jacks that the enginesdrove. These engines were verti-cal, air-cooled, and hit-and-missgoverned. Most were hot tubeignition, but magneto and sparkplug was also offered.

Rumsey-WilliamsAlso on hand was a very rare

Rumsey-Williams. This designpre-dates the Westinghouse

and the similarity can be seen.It was built in St. Johnsville,N.Y., about 1890. Most uniqueis the one-piece casting thatmakes the engine frame, as wellas the cart. This engine wouldhave been pulled by a team ofhorses from place to place to

do threshing and other farmwork. Rumsey then moved toRipley, N.Y., and built an unusu-al horizontal engine, and finallyto Friendship, N.Y., where theyproduced a more conventionalfarm engine. Not many firmsshared this diversity or perse-verance.

Farmers FavoriteThe Farmers Favorite engine

on display was built by the George

(Clockwise from top left) A portable Westinghouse engine built in Schenectady, NY; a 4 HP Myrick Eclipsebuilt in Olean, NY; a very rare circa 1890 Rumsey-Williams engine built in St. Johnsville, NY; and a 10 HPFarmers Favorite built in Vernon, NY.


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Pohl Mfg, Co. of Vernon, N.Y. Itis about 10 HP, and is a hop-per cooled, sideshaft, hit-and-miss farm engine on a portablehorse drawn cart. At the timethis engine was built, Pohl wasfacing fierce competition fromthe other farm engine mak-ers such as Fairbanks-Morse

and International, and had tomodify their classic design totry to survive. Although theymade a quality product, theydisappeared from the market in1918. This is one of their lastproducts.

AdvanceA beautifully restored 16

HP George Pohl Advanceportable engine represents thefirst design from the companymarketed as the Advance. Itis a well finished engine with asideshaft and vertical governor,and is displayed on the origi-nal horse drawn cart. Therewas also a firm in Hamilton,Ohio, known as the Advancethat made the Hamilton enginewhich was identical. The con-nection is not known.

Mietz Oil EngineAnother interesting engine

was the Mietz Oil Engine made

in New York City as the Mietz& Weiss. These are 2-cycle,direct injection oil engines that

burned kerosene, and theywere very successful. Theywere built on the patent of CarlWeiss, who designed an engineto circumvent the Diesel pat-ents. These engines requireda bulb in the head to be heat-ed red hot for starting, thenignition would follow without

any sparking device. CharterEngine Company of Sterling,Ill., actually made this enginehaving assumed productionafter Mietz & Weiss faded away.All these engines were verywell built and many have sur-vived. I actually found one inAlaska several years ago.

Buffalo OlinOur last featured engine, is

an Olin made in Buffalo, N.Y.,This 4 HP model is beauti-fully complete and runs verywell. It has the electric igniteralthough most were hot tube.Fred Olin had many patents forgas engine designs and this ishis 1898 patent.It is interestingto note that theTitusville IronWorks also builtan Olin accord-ing to the 1896patent. No con-

nection has beenestablished. TheBuffalo Olins

are well made, heavy industrialengines, and were built for longrunning with minimal attention.

It is my hope that the readerhas enjoyed this tour of ourJune show and some of the fineengines displayed. Please takesome time to visit CoolspringPower Museum and see our

displays. The Fall Expo will beOct. 13-15.

Contact Coolspring Power Museum

at 814-849-6883, or by visiting

www.coolspringpowermuseum.org .

Read about theengines on dis-play at Coolspringin the latestbook from GasEngine Magazine.Ordering info is onthe second page ofthis issue, or online atwww.farmcollector.com.

(Clockwise from right) 16 HP Advance engine madein Vernon, N.Y.; a Mietz Oil Engine made in New YorkCity as the Mietz and Weiss; and a Buffalo Olin made inBuffalo, N.Y.


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O

n a Thursday morningback in 2003, I was calling

on one of my customers whenI happened to see a friend ofmine in the shop. We got totalking and he asked what Iwas doing for entertainment. Imentioned I was collecting junkand trying to make somethingout of it. He advised me thathe had two pieces of junk heneeded to get rid of: a 6 HPFairbanks-Morse Model Z and a1-1/2 HP Schmidt. He told me$300 would take both. Well, I

had $300 burning a hole in mypocket and I just needed twomore chunks of iron to hold mybarn closer to earth. Of course,my wifes comment was, Yougave money for that pile ofjunk? Yes I did.

Getting startedClose inspection of this

investment revealed I was miss-ing the following: connectingrod, piston, rocker arm, push-

rod, both governor weights, fueltank, both upper main bear-ing caps and the Lunkenheimermixer. Piece of cake, I thought.No problem.

One of the first things onmy list was to remove the fly-wheel from the crank, and ofcourse, the head of the gib keywas broken off. Using the key-way as a guide for the 1/4-inchdrill bit I drilled out the brokenkey and in short order I had the

flywheel off the crank. Now Ihad two good flywheels and agood crankshaft. What a start!

I stripped the engine down,sand blasted it and got it ready

for a make over. I was happyto have the timing gears andthe original spark advancelever, and the governor mount-ing bracket on the flywheel; atleast those three items were ingood condition. Unfortunately,there were no timing marks.Oh well.

Gathering infoNext thing I did was place

an ad on SmokStak.com to see


By Richard Rulon

Part 1 of 2:1-1/2 HP Schmidtreceives a sharp

makeover

Richard Rulons 1-1/2 HP Schmidt after restoration (above) and in thecondition he bought it in for $300 (lower left).


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if I could find any parts and orinformation on this beauty. I wasable to find some literature andit included a parts list. I was alsoable to determine that some ofthe parts I needed were the sameas those on the 3 HP Schmidtengine.

Enter a Mr. George Coates,who advised me that he had a 3HP Schmidt apart and was hav-ing some parts cast. We struckup a deal and I had the gov-ernor weights, connecting rod,and valve rocker arm cast. I hadalready cast the bearing caps. Imade sure to have extra parts

cast just in case so if anyoneelse needed parts I could helpsomeone out.

Pouring babbittThe first thing to do was

machine the bearing caps, borethem out and make a mandrelto pour babbitt. Aluminum wasused for the mandrel becausebabbitt will not stick to it (pic-ture #3 & 4 ) I made the mandrelabout .003-inch smaller than the

crank bearingsurface to allowfor some shrink-ing and materialfor scraping.

The next thing to do was tomake shims for the bearings andstart the scraping in process,which takes a while to do. Thebabbitt left in the block was ingood shape so I left that in placeand just touched it up. I usedmachinist layout dye to paintthe bearings. Installing the crankand bolting in place, and thenrotating the crank highlightedthe high spots, which were thenscraped. This wass repeatedmany times until the crank was

seated in the bearing.A piston was bought from

Hit & Miss Enterprises and ringswere bought from Star Boltengine supply.

I made a fixture to hold theconnecting rod and it was setup in the mill and machined. Ilocated and drilled the bearingcap bolt holes first, and then theconnecting rod cap was sawedoff the rod and reinstalled withbolts. The connecting rod borewas done next and wrist pin borefollowed.

Babbitt was then poured forthe connecting rod, and shimsmade for the rod and installed.Then, after more scraping, thewrist pin bushing was made andpressed into the rod and reamedto correct size. I then connected

the piston to the rod.At this point, I had a connect-

ing rod and piston installed in thecylinder and the governor sideflywheel temporary installed.

Additional repairsThe governor weights were

next in line, and these were easyto do.

(Clockwise from left) Machining the bearing caps;pouring the babbitt; the fresh bearing caps after thepour.

Sawing off theconnecting rod cap.


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The cylinder head was ingood shape but the valve seatswere ground, so I was forcedto make new valves. I boughtsomething close and rema-chined them to fit; stems werethreaded and new nuts weremade.

The rocker arm wasmachined and new push rodmade.

A newly-made Lunkenheimermixer was purchased from CoryBell, and I had John Wanatmake me a fuel tank. I made anew strap to hold the fuel tankand used a brake rotor to bendthe steel strapping into a niceeven circle.

One of the last things I hadto do was make a fan for cool-ing, and this turned out to be

easier than I had expected.After cutting a strip of steel forwidth and length around theflywheel and making clamps tohold it together, I used a shrink-ing hammer to fold the edges,which worked very well. Then Imade the fan blades and rivetedthem onto the strip.

At this point, I had pretty

much everything done, so I tookit apart, primed it, painted it redand silver and reassembled it.

On April 10, 2004, 10months after I started the proj-ect, the Schmidt was fueled up,the buzz box hooked up and thespark retarded, and it startedon the first try.The engine runscounter clockwise, while the

fairly common 3 HP Schmidtruns clockwise. I guess the sell-er was mistaken when he toldme it would never run again.

In part 2 in the October GEMExtra, Ill explain how I built apump jack for the Schmidt.

Contact Richard Rulon at rerulon@

comcast.net.

Richard made a new strap to attach the fuel tank to theengine (above). He used a brake rotor to bend the steelstrapping into a nice even circle (right).

Attaching the new fan blades,which provide cooling.


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Repair & How-To


Bud Motrys Tips forPouring Babbitt Bearings

The GEM guide to antique engine maintenance

The following was writtenby Bud Motry for the September/October and November/December1981 issues of Gas EngineMagazine.

Worn out or missing bearingsare frequently a problem withold engines. Sometimes it is pos-sible to locate bearings to fit, but itis costly and takes a long time.

With a minimum of equip-ment, a cast iron pot and a ladle,that may be procured at a fleamarket, you may pour your ownbearings.

Connecting rod bearingsIt takes a little ingenuity to

make a fixture to hold your oldconnecting rod, but the fixturecan be made from wood. Note the

crude example, though entirelyeffective, in the photo. Babbitt isavailable from old engine suppliersand some local auto parts stores.One pound is usually sufficient formost bearings. The wood fixtureyou see here was made from apiece of 2-by-4-inch block about20 inches long, and a piece of1-by-4-inch block about 6 incheslong.

The bearing for this rod need-

ed a flange on both sides of thebearing, and it is necessary tomeasure the outside diameterof the rod casting. Drill a hole,slightly smaller than this diameternear one end of the 2-by-4-inch

block. It should only

be drilled about 1/8inch deep, using a holesaw. The inside of thishole must be cleaned

out with a wood chisel. The con-necting rod journal diameter hasbeen measured, and assuming itis 1.250 inches in diameter, locatea shaft of this diameter; you willneed a short piece, perhaps sixinches long. Drill a hole, this size

precisely, in the center of the largehole drilled into the 2-by-4-inchblock. It need be only about 1inch deep. This hole will support

The only special equipment needed to pour babbitt bearings are the castiron melting pot and the ladle shown here. The bearing scraper is home-made from a small three-cornered file, ground to sharp edges on twosides. The pine stick is used as a temperature indicator of the babbitt.

Wood fixture used to hold connecting rod in alignment topour babbitt bearings. This bearing required a flange on bothsides. A bevel protractor may be used to advantage to assurealignment of the rod and the dummy shaft. Note the shingleused to level the connecting rod. Vertical alignment of thewrist pin with the bevel protractor assured the rod alignment.With both shafts parallel and the dummy shaft centered in the

rod bore, the bearing is ready to pour.


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the dummy shaft. Next, a hole isdrilled in the 1-by-4-inch block thesame diameter as the large hole inthe 2-by-4-inch block. Drill all theway through this piece. This piecewill be placed over the connectingrod, to hold it in place, and formthe flange on the other side of thebearing.

The connecting rod is nowchecked for shims. I usually add a1/16 inch shims or more, betweenthe cap and rod of the connectingrod. The pieces are smoothed witha file, assembled, bolted in place,and any openings are plugged withwood. The rod is now placed onthe block, checked for centeringover the shaft and aligned with thelarge opening. I usually drive nailson both sides to hold it in position.The wrist pin end of the rod is thenchecked to see if it is level with

the big end of the rod. It is usuallynecessary to shim under the rod tomake it level.

The 1-by-4-inch block isthen placed over the big endof the rod and centered. Thispiece is then attached with twowood screws to the 2-by-4-inchblock to hold the rod in position.Check the fixture again for per-fect alignment. It is advisable touse a bevel protractor.

Heating and pouringThe next step is to heat the

babbitt over a gas burner. It takesa lot of heat to melt the babbitt.It should be heated hot enough,according to the old books, so thata piece of pine stick will smokewhen removed from the moltenmetal.

After the metal is ready to pour,the connecting rod casting and theshaft should be heated with a torch.It may char the wood, but no harm

is done. I heat the casting bothon the inside and outside to theapproximate temperature of melt-ing solder about 450 Fahrenheit.At this time wood plugs must be inplace, or inserted, in any threadedopenings in the rod.

Skim the slag off the top of themolten metal and discard it. Fillthe hot ladle with clean babbitt andcarefully pour it in the rod opening.Slight leakage will quickly seal andadditional metal may be poured. It

will blend with the previous pour.After the metal has cooled

twenty or thirty minutes removethe wood fixture. The shaft maybe placed in a vise and twisted off,but if an arbor press or hydraulicpress is available it is easier topress the shaft from the bearing.Excess material on the side of thebearing may be sawed off with ahacksaw or finished with a file anda scraper. It will also be neces-sary to cut the bearing at the shimedge, between the cap and therod in order to remove the cap.Depending on the accuracy of the job, there may be very little fit-ting necessary. However, in somecases it may be advisable to use areamer to finish the bearing to size.If the shaft used was a little smallerthan the journal size it can easilybe taken care of by using a reamer

on the bearing.After checking the alignment

of the rod to the center bore of thecylinder and finding you have mis-calculated, the rod may be heatedand the bearing poured back in themelting pot and you can start allover again.

Crankshaft main bearingsCrankshaft main babbitt bear-

ings may be poured in much thesame manner as connecting rodbearings. However, there is a slightdifference as main bearings area little more complicated. I havefound it easier to pour main bear-ings in halves rather than onepiece. The lower halves should bepoured first.

Getting startedThis set-up requires four sheet

metal washers approximately4-by-4-inch, with a center holedrilled to exact size of the crank-shaft journal. These pieces willclose off both ends of the bear-ings. An accompanying photo willillustrate the use of the wash-ers. As the bearings will require aflange on one side of the bearing,it will be necessary to fabricate aU shaped piece of scrap metal

approximately 1-by-5-inch thatcan easily be bent to fit aroundthe casting. The metal strip can beheld in place by pounding the endsover the engine casting.

The crankshaft must be posi-tioned in the center of the bearingcasting. By using the connectingrod attached to the piston, in place,it will support the crankshaft whenthe connecting rod cap is tight-

The four washers are clamped in place. The connecting rod with shimsunder the rod end are holding the crankshaft in proper alignment. Notethe cam gear and the crankshaft gear are in place. After the casting is

heated with a torch, the babbitt is ready to pour.


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ened. The cap is tightened whenthe crankshaft rod journal bear-ing is at its lowest arc. This alsoassures clearance between the rodbearing cap and the base of theengine block. The crankshaft gearis in place against the cam shaftgear, with a shim between the gearteeth to provide clearance. Thisassists in supporting the crank-shaft in place. To check horizontalalignment of the shaft, I use themain bearing casting surface as areference point.

Using spacersWith the bearing cap studs

in place, I use them for a steadyrest, and with a straight edge overthe top of the shaft, measure thedistance from the casting surfaceto the straight edge. Now, makefour spacers of this dimension, cut

a piece of pipe, or use washers asspacers over the studs. It is easyto check the horizontal position ofthe shaft with these spacers as aguide. The rod bearing cap maybe loosened to effect a changein alignment. The inside wash-ers are held in place by use of awood wedge between the washerand the crankshaft web. The outerleft washer is held in place by thecrankshaft gear. The outer rightend washer is held in place with

a hose clamp around the shaft.Any gaps may be sealed with fur-nace cement or asbestos packing.Slight leakage, however, is notobjectionable because it seals veryquickly.

Check the alignment again,before heating the casting and theshaft with a torch. If the casting iscold it will not permit the metal toflow freely and will leave gaps inthe bearing. With the molten metalhot enough to cause a pine stick

to smoke when submerged andthen removed from the metal, it ishot enough to pour. It only takes amoment to pour the bearing.

After it cools twenty minutes,the crankshaft may be jarred loosefrom its seat. The flanges may befiled to fit with a body file. There isno precise thickness of the flangerequired as the flywheels may bemoved to control end thrust of theshaft.

The corners of the bearings

must be rounded to fit on the innerside of the bearing with a scraper.This lower half of the bearingsshould now provide perfect align-ment of the crankshaft.

It is advisable to check thesethree factors:

The gear teeth clearance. The connecting rod and cap

should have sufficient clearance atthe base of the housing, dependingon the size of the engine.

The horizontal alignmentmust permit the crankshaft to beturned freely, 360 degrees with-out binding of the connecting rodbearing.

Pouring the bearingsThe next step is to pour the

cap bearings. They may be pouredone at a time. With one of thecrankshaft washers in place to

close the opening on the inside ofthe cap, secure the crankshaft inits new lower bearings with one ofthe old bearing caps. Cut a shimfrom asbestos for each side of thebearing. This will keep the moltenmetal from fusing with the alreadyfinished lower bearing. Be sure it

covers all the new babbitt, extend-ing tightly to the crankshaft. Boltthe cap in place, centering it on thestuds. Wedge the washer againstthe casting with a wood block.

Tip the engine over on itsside, supported in a level posi-tion by wood blocks. To com-plete the cap flange, the metalclip used for the lower bearingmay be wrapped around the cast-ing and held in place with a Cclamp. The metal form shouldbe level with the flange for thelower half. Heat the bearing capand the shaft with a torch, plugany pipe thread openings witha block of wood and proceed topour the bearing. When cooledthe cap may be jarred loose witha hammer. Repeat the procedurefor the opposite bearing cap andcomplete the job of shimming and

scraping to restore the bearings tolast another fifty years.

Is there a repair or maintenanceissue youd like to see us cover? Sendyour suggestion to associate editorChristian Williams at [email protected].

This photo shows all the bearings that have been poured. The bearingcap on the left has been filed and scraped to fit. The lube hole has beendrilled. The bearing cap on the right has just been poured showing thevery little babbitt seepage on one end. This bearing has not been touched

since pouring. The lower right side of the bearing casting shows theasbestos shims that are used to prevent the molten metal to be poured inthe cap from fusing with the lower half.

August 2011 Digital Supp Docs(1)

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