Motorcycle TourM

agazine

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

AUGUST 2011Volume 17 No. 8

Running with the DiavelRiding Solo in Tuscany • Tour de Tug • Americade 2011

PLUS… All our great monthly columns, features and information

http://www.nolan-usa.com

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W H A T ’ S I N S I D EMONTHLY COLUMNS

FREE WHEELIN’.................................................................................4

WHATCHATHINKIN’..........................................................................6

POSTCARDS FROM THE HEDGE .................................................8

ON THE MARK ..................................................................................9

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD ...................................................10

BACKLASH........................................................................................11

INDUSTRY INFOBITES...................................................................13

INSIDE THE HELMET .....................................................................14

BIG CITY GETAWAY........................................................................16

WE’RE OUTTA HERE......................................................................18

MYSTERIOUS AMERICA...............................................................22

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN.........................................24

UPCOMING EVENTS CALENDAR ..............................................48

MOTORCYCLE MARKETPLACE...................................................52

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE .......................................................56

FEATURESAMERICADE - BACK TO THE LAKE...........................................26

GOOCH’S GARLIC RUN 2011.......................................................31

RIDING SOLO IN TUSCANY.........................................................36

BACKROADS UPCOMING EVENTS ...........................................40

RUNNING WITH THE DIAVEL......................................................42

GETTING CLEAR ON COMMUNICATION ................................46

SHIRA’S SUMMERTIME ICE CREAM RIDE .............................58

TWO-AND-A-THIRD SIXES TOUR DE TUG ..............................60

PRODUCT REVIEWSPRODUCT SPOTLIGHTS ...............................................................44

CATOMA OUTDOORS 2 UP 2 TENT.........................................50

ARAI XC SERIES HELMET ............................................................51

Brian Rathjen • Shira Kamil ~ PublishersContributors: Michael Abraham, Bill Amadio, Mark Byers, Bill Heald, Vince Johnson,Jeffrey Kurtzman, Donna Sherburn, Tim Wineland, Tyler Yandow, Dr. Seymour O’Life

BACKROADS • POB 317, Branchville NJ 07826

Phone 973.948.4176 • Fax 973.948.0823 • email editor@backroadsusa.com • web www.backroadsusa.com • Advertising Sales 973-948-4176

BACKROADS (ISSN 1087-2088) is published monthly by BACKROADS™, Inc. 2011. All rights reserved. BACKROADS™ may not be reproduced in any manner without specific writtenconsent from the publisher. BACKROADS™ welcomes and encourages submissions (text and photos) and suggestions. Include phone number with submissions. BACKROADS™ willonly return material with enclosed sufficient postage. The written articles and opinions printed in BACKROADS™ are not necessarily those of the publisher and should not be con-sidered an endorsement. The Rip & Rides® published are ridden on the sole responsibilty of the rider. BACKROADS™ is not responsible for the conditions of the public roadwaystraversed. Please respect the environment, read your owner’s manual and wear proper protective gear and helmet. Ride within your limits, not over them.

Motorcycles, Travel & Adventure

http://www.motorcycledryer.com

Not AlwAys EquAl

All animals are equal – but some animalsare more equal that others….

Animal Farm

A few years back, while touring in eastern Europe I came upon a sign for limited

parking.

It showed a hybrid vehicle and, if you were driving such a car, you were more

than welcome to this prime piece of parking realty.

Being in this part of the world I simply took note and parked my highly fuel-ef-

ficient motorcycle in another legal, if not as nice space, and continued on my tour.

Let’s slingshot forward a few years to

this past June.

We were at a local park in western

Pennsylvania and, as we pulled into the

parking lot, I spied a vaguely familiar

sign.

The very politically correct Eurocrats

had reached our shores. For years, if you

were handicapped, you had privileged

parking – but now if you had a “Hybrid”

you were also given special parking.

Wait, because you are driving a more

“Green” vehicle you are now more wor-

thy than others?

All animals are equal – but some ani-

mals are more equal that others….

Our motorcycles are powered by both

fuel and electricity - in a fashion. And,

with the superb fuel economy that many

bikes get, should we not also be offered

prime parking when available?

I think motorcycles are green from the get go!

This day I made it a point to park my bike right in this spot.

Nobody said a word at this park. It didn’t matter as there were dozen of them

and we were the only ones there. Still a point was to be made.

Don’t we all think that it is about time that the United States really starts to em-

brace two-wheel transportation? Making readily available parking for motorcycles

is truly a no-brainer.

We put less stress on the roadways and infrastructure. We take up far less space

than all but the smallest cars and motorcycles are very fuel-efficient.

In the Big Apple the New York Motorcycle & Scooter Task Force is doing a se-

riously good job at getting more spots available for riders of both motorcycles and

scooters. LaGuardia Airport is their latest success. We hope more are on the way.

Log onto their site at www.nymstf.org and help in any way you can.

Since it was the Europeans that spurred this tirade on we must give credit where

it is due.

For years Europe has not only embraced motorcycles and riders, but actively

encourage them.

The way the average European feels about riders compared to the average Amer-

ican is truly a wide gap. Riders are accepted in Europe – here they are sometimes

vilified.

In every major European country motorcycles are an intrinsic part of the trans-

portation system. Motorcycles are everywhere and treated like equals, not in the

villainous way many times we are treated here in the States.

Not only that, in Europe and Asia it is expected that motorcycles will filter

though stopped traffic. This makes sense and keeps the flow of traffic from piling

up.

Lane-splitting is illegal in many eastern states, but it is encouraged in Europe.

I have had some drivers actually try to stop me from moving through stopped

traffic on a hot summer day. By trying to stop me, using a pick-up truck as a bat-

tering ram, I see that as attempted murder. But that’s me and I have been called

excitable.

I guess what we’d like to see is a more common-sense approach to motorcycle

riding, parking and attitude.(Continued on Page 12)

F R E E W H E E L I N ’

BRIAN RATHJEN

Page 4

http://www.can-am.brp.com

whAt’s A girl to do?

I consider myself fortunate to have a cou-

ple of bikes to choose from when heading

out for a ride. I know many who have a multitude of options, but I’ve always

thought that two is the perfect number. Even with all the miles I put on in a

year, I still don’t put on enough to warrant a third choice. I suppose that

if/when I decide to do more serious off-road adventuring – that would be

if/when I move out of New Jersey as there is next to nothing in the way of

trails in my neck of the state

– a smaller dirt bike would be

added to the stable. For now,

the BMW F650GS and

Honda 919 serve my pur-

poses just fine.

That being said, I wish my

choices in gear were as sim-

ple. Brian and I used to be

very happy sharing a gear

closet, chock full of jackets,

pants, boots and such. They

commingled in happiness,

blending their road odors to

become one. At some point, I

realized that my stuff kept

getting hung on the lesser

hangers and the separation of

‘front and back’ of the closet

no longer existed. I must have mumbled this in my outside voice, as Brian

moved his gear to another closet one day. Perhaps it was that he felt my gear

was beginning to overrun his and he ran for his life. Whatever the reason, I

discovered a whole new space and, when one has space, one fills it.

I have to say that I am sort of gentle on my riding gear. I like to wash it on

a fairly regular basis and try to keep it in somewhat decent shape. Thus, I

tend to keep pieces for some length of time and accumulate many variations

of the theme. Sure, there are seasonal items such as heavy liners and

Gerbings, but I’m talking crossovers. Let’s take an inventory…

My selection of jackets right now includes a Cortech Denim, Girl Gear

Morocco, Clover GT-3 WP and Olympia Airglide and AST, all with accom-

panying liners. For the bottom half of my body there hang some Olympia

Airglide and Promax also pairing up with liners. Moving further south, the

floor of the closet houses Tourmaster Solution, IXS boots that I believe are

out of production and Forma GT. Hanging out in the bike barn are a number

of helmets including a tried and true Nolan N103, a thoroughly broken in

Schuberth C3W and the new kid on the block, the Vemar Jiano, which is

soon to be road-tested. I won’t even go into the glove box, as that happens

to be my obsession zone. Okay, since you insist, my day-to-day finger cover

is a pair of Held Steve II. I have an assortment of rain gloves, varying in

(Continued on Page 12)

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Page 6 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

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thE drivE of your lifE

It’s one of those things where if everything is

working properly, you really don’t give it much

thought. And while there are so many aspects of

modern motorcycles I could include in this category, at the moment I’m

thinking about your final drive system. This is of course the ultimate link be-

tween your drivetrain and the road, for this is the final mechanical transfer

point where your power is translated to the drive wheel in order to get you

on your way. Despite the fact that we have so much wild technology in our

lives these days, there’s still just three primary ways our final drives are set

up: chains, belts and drive shafts. But, as always, I think there may be a dif-

ferent type of system in the future and until recently I would have said the

distant future. But the way things change these days, I refuse to use the term

distant any more. Technology has a way of just showing up and getting in-

corporated into our lives almost before we realize it, so I’m going to be care-

ful when I say something is way in the future.

For now, though, we have the three established drive systems and I’ve

heard some surprisingly spirited dinner discussions about which system is

superior. Most manufacturers (but certainly not all) use all three drive meth-

ods depending on which particular model they think works best with the par-

ticular system. Serious sport bikes (with the exception of Buells recently)

always went for a chain for its combination of durability, light weight, ability

to handle a lot of torque and horsepower and the ease at which you can

change the final drive ratio by just swapping sprockets. On the downside a

chain-and-sprocket array is the highest maintenance of the three systems, al-

though with today’s O-ring, X-ring, X-Wing and Ring-a-Ding chains this is

not nearly the chore it used to be. Just picking from the amazing assortment

of chain lubes available (including waxes and other types of excellent chem-

istry in spray form) can be an adventure, though, and until recently many

manufacturers still recommended lubing the chain with good ol’ engine oil

which was a mess.

Next we have the belt system, which some folks mistakenly think is a com-

paratively recent development but belts have been driving wheels for as long

as there have been engines (and motors, and mills powered by paddlewheels).

A very efficient and light weight way to go, belts are also clean and require

no maintenance other than periodic inspection, occasional adjustment and

eventual replacement. On the downside it’s much harder to change ratios,

and on very rare occasions a gravel road can mess with the “teeth” of a belt’s

sprocket. Oh, they are also very elegant and stylish, and can help dampen

the output shock of an engine like a V-Twin.

Finally we have gear drive (or shaft drive as we call it), which is heavier,

more complex but very reliable and very low maintenance. Over the eons all

kinds of clever engineering strategies have been implemented to help coun-

teract the “shaft effect” this type of system can introduce during abrupt ac-

celeration or deceleration, with a good degree of success. BMW and Moto

Guzzi have a lot of experience with drive shafts, and their work has resulted

in not only good, reliable drive but generous use of single-sided swingarms

that greatly simplifies rear wheel removal. Sport Touring bikes are really

starting to embrace the shaft, too, like the Kawasaki Concours, Yamaha

FJR1300A and even Honda VFR have done. The only real maintenance in-

volves (depending on the machine) a bit of shaft-spline lube and an oil change

at usually pretty spread-out intervals, which is why big touring rigs like the

Gold Wing that log serious miles love the shaft (especially since added

weight is less of an issue).

So all three of these systems are doing a fine job of getting our motorcycles

around, much as we got along just fine with carburetors, non-radial tires and

even drum brakes once upon a time. What’s next in final drive? In my mind

the next big change will come with a change in the engine room, or when

the rapidly advancing science of electric-powered motorcycles become more

mainstream. Then in the lightest models I think we’ll see an electric motor

that basically IS the final drive, fed off nothing more than a wire running up

the swingarm. Imagine the overall simplicity, low maintenance and cleanli-

ness of such a drive. I honestly do think this technology has a lot of devel-

opment to do and is not exactly around the corner, and yet I can’t believe

how fast the world of anything that has wires, chips and other things in it is

changing. The next decade, to put it mildly, is going to be very interesting.

P O S T C A R D SF R O M T H E H E D G E

BILL HEALD

Page 8 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

138 Orange Ave (Rt. 202), Suffern, NY 10901 • 845.357.1190 • www.locomotionpowersports.com

“Oh, a storm is threat’ning, My very lifetoday, If I don’t get some shelter, Ohyeah, I’m gonna fade away.”

The Rolling Stones “Gimme Shelter”

I see it coming for miles: thirty thousand

feet of tumultuous, malevolent, gray-indigo

cumulonimbus loaded with rain and hail,

charged with the electrical equivalent of an

atom bomb. With increasing frequency, it

was lit from within by jagged blue neon,

turning even the darker parts irridescent

blue. I was on a motorcycle and we, the

storm and I, were headed straight for each

other. Any sane motorcyclist knows better

than to play chicken with a thunderstorm.

We lose.

I’ve ridden in the rain and it’s not that

special. A quick stop to don rain gear and

gloves nets me the protection I need to pro-

ceed. A thunderstorm is different, though. A thunder-

storm has fangs. Being pelted with hail, which I’ve

experienced, pales in comparison to what else a thun-

derstorm can do. There’s a reason death-row convicts

called execution by electrocution “riding the lightning.”

We’re basically an electrical circuit with a saltwater fill-

ing, so a human is a pretty good conductor. On a mo-

torcycle, there’s no enveloping, conducting Faraday

Cage to divert the amps around us. I love barbecues, but

I don’t fancy being the meat course.

The usual signs preceded it. An unusual calm de-

scended as the light faded, then the wind began with in-

creasing intensity, carrying with it the unmistakable

smell of rain. Tree leaves turned upside down, showing

their white bellies in fealty to the approaching storm. It

marched toward me as I rode toward it and I could see

the rain bands lashing down. Even my feeble mind

didn’t have trouble doing the math: at this rate of clo-

sure, I wasn’t going to make my destination.

There’s nothing like an approaching supercell to

make shelter the top priority on Maslow’s hierarchy of

need for a motorcyclist. I shifted navigation modes from

“destination” to “desperation” and began looking for the

usual suspects. Abandoned service station awnings do

all right. One time my wife and I spent the better part

of an hour huddled on the littered front porch of an

abandoned, condemned house. Sometimes a store will

appear and sometimes a bridge abutment has to do, forc-

ing you to watch while tractor-trailers thunder by your

abandoned bike, showering it with dirty mist. Even so,

if the cell spawns rotation, that bridge abutment is a

mighty fine place.

In this case, a kind soul standing in an empty service

station bay beckoned and soon I was inside with my

newest, latest best friend. As I put the stand down, the

first big drops hit the pavement outside like bursting

water balloons. Then came the storm, in all it’s electric

glory, the wind driving sheets of rain in seemingly ran-

dom directions, misting well into the garage. Telephone

wires waved. The smell changed from hot pavement

potpourri to storm perfume. Brilliant blue flashes lit the

sky and the thunder roared like God had his bass amp

turned up to eleven. There’s no sensory experience quite

like watching, hearing, feeling, and smelling a thunder-

storm, particularly when you’re sheltered.

We didn’t say much, my new friend and I, we just

watched in awed silence as the clouds retched all over the outside world. A

couple truck tires became my front-row seat. I got a pop from the cooler and

drank it as the show played. The storm’s anger was short-lived, as they tend

to be. It lasted a bottle of pop, then faded to a drizzle and a breeze. My new

friend and I talked bikes for a while as the rain abated, then my destination

beckoned. There was a handshake before the glove went on, then I pushed

out into the post-storm wet. A wave and a visor-down later, I was on my way

again as the storm spent itself on points East.

Out on the road, the rain was already rising in an eerie mist from the shock-

cooled pavement. To the West, the lowering

sun colored orange and red the striated

clouds in the wake of the storm. I felt like I

was riding through some director’s post-

apocalyptic movie set. The lighting design

should win an Academy Award. I rode on,

awash in my good fortune. There’s nothing

more awe-inspiring than the brutal majesty

of a thunderstorm, but as a motorcyclist,

gimme shelter. From my perspective, there’s

a lot of beauty in an old, green, greasy serv-

ice station bay with a handy stack of tires.

O N T H E M A R K

MARK BYERS

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 9

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The weather forecast for the next few days was high 80s

and dry; an uncommon event for the first week of Septem-

ber in northern Vermont. I knew the riding season would

end sooner than I would hope for. I had been inspired by

the articles in HOG Magazine for an adventure and the

challenge to see how far I could go on $100. I packed my

Softail Deluxe with my essential camping gear and took

off. My desire was to explore the Adirondacks in neigh-

boring New York.

My route from my home in the Northeast Kingdom of

Vermont took me west across my own beautiful state’s

farmland and villages. I arrived in Montpelier to eat my

packed lunch on the lawn of the capital. A few hours later, I was crossing

Lake Champlain via ferry to the equally beautiful landscape of New York. I

spent the twenty minute crossing answering the curiosities of several inter-

ested passengers on my travels and operation of my bike. It proved to be the

first of many comments of my “braveness” of traveling solo – apparently an

unusual occurrence for a woman. I hadn’t planned any routes to take and

when I came to an intersection, I often chose the path least traveled. I was

accustomed to rural and mountainous travels; however, I was unprepared for

the beauty of the many lakes, ponds, forests and vistas of

the Adirondacks. As evening was approaching, my lack

of planning was not transporting me by any campgrounds,

so at my first gas fill-up, I purchased a map and was able

to locate the nearest state campground. Arriving just be-

fore closing time, I inquired about staying for the

night. After being asked if I was traveling alone, I was

told the campground was full. I explained that I wouldn’t

take up much more room than my bike did and though I

would love the freedom to camp off the edge of these des-

olate roadways, I did not want to risk my safety. I was

alone, but not foolish. A call to the manager and a cry of

desperation for the solo lady on the big bike and I was

in. I set up my homestead for the night, jumped in the lake

to wash off the road grime and ate my meal of cup of soup and beef jerky. I

had put on 143 miles that day. The night was warm and the full moon re-

flected on the lake beside my tent. Life doesn’t get much better than this.

I had an early start at sunrise and after getting my bearings from the map

I purchased the day before, I headed for Lake Placid. A long winding road

transported me to mountain vistas, lakes and streams that appeared too pris-

tine to be real. The first indication that I arrived at my destination was the

towering ski jumps from past Olympic games. A short distance from there,

I entered what emulated a European ski town coupled

with the hustle and bustle of an affluent society. I must

admit, while I stretched my legs along the paths of the

lake, I felt a bit out of place with my leathers amongst

the designer clad, sweet smelling, strolling tourist of the

town. It propelled me to ride again.

Taking a southwestern route out of town, I cruised by

countless waterways, often without seeing any other

travelers on the byways until I arrived in the small lake-

side communities. I fell upon the Adirondack Museum

in Blue Lake. The entry fee was $20, a bit more than I

dared spend and stay in budget. I was able to use the

facilities and pick up some Adirondack history by pe-

rusing the books in the museum store. Back on the bike

and my next goal was Lake George. The crowds made

me to an “about face” and head back into the woods. I

was prepared to spend $20 on my campsite this night,

but as the road warrior gods would have it, this state

campground’s attendants had gone off duty hours before

my arrival and left a sign of “Welcome. Choose your

spot.” Another sunset swim, warm dinner and the added

luxury of a campfire thanks to the many campers that

had left wood behind. I had racked on another 158

miles.

My third day on the road brought me to Crown Point,

NY to hitch the ferry back to Vermont where the warm

sun was baking the crops of corn and freshly cut hay to

aloft their sweet aromas. As the miles passed bringing

me back home, I reflected on the many gifts the wind

and road had allotted.

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Page 10 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

THOUGHTS FROM THE ROAD Donna Sherburne

The Journal of J.T. Hart

Brian,

You’ve done a fantastic job with the Journal. Congratulations and thank

you. We both love it. Will you send Cheryl Hart a copy? Will other family

members of all four travelers be able to buy copies of this issue? We’ll look

forward to hearing about the feedback that you get on this story.

Best regards.

Ron & Terry Minor

Dear Brian,

Thank you very much for publishing this glorious and gritty saga. I took

your July Backroads with me on my annual B-day m/c camp out, this year

to Robert H. Treman St. Park just south of Ithaca, N.Y. By riding a reliable

Suzuki Volusia over smooth asphalt with an occasional construction zone to

a level, quiet campsite with a tent, cot, fire, food, etc. I’m trying to connect

to these days of touring when roads were still ditches and you could share a

clutch. My trip is a stroll down the block compared to this.

One of my favorite lines was the “pitiful remarks” made by Minor when

he skidded out: “Oh! My poor ankle. I know it is hurt!” I don’t think you

could print most of the words that come out of my mouth when I skid out.

Thanks again, and I love your magazine,

C. Olson - Valhalla, N.Y.

Be Careful Out There

I have sent you this because I want you to use caution while riding.

I was on Jackson Valley Road in Washington this afternoon (Sunday the

12th) when I caught “something” flying out of the corner of my eye. I heard

a WHAP and thought something flew out of my saddlebag. As my mind

processed the scene I realized the passing vehicle had thrown something at

me while riding. I looked down while riding and saw that my left saddlebag

was covered with what looked like chocolate pudding and some white/yellow

stuff. By the time I realized what had really happened, the truck was gone in

the opposite direction. I continued to the Quick Chek in Washington where

I cleaned the mess off with a wet paper towel. It looked like the contents of

a chocolate creme pie. On my trip home I slowed at the point where it hap-

pened and saw the crust in the road so my suspicions were correct on what

had been thrown. Since I wasn’t paying particular attention to the vehicle

before the incident, I recall it may have been a dark grey or black SUV or

pickup.Later in the evening I was relaying what had happened to a friend

that was on a Ninja. He told me that he was on Route 46 near Steiger Street

in Hackettstown going about 30 mph when someone threw something at him

that bounced off his full face helmet, hit a car windshield and cracked it. In

his case it turned out to be a NJ license plate that was folded in half then

folded into a triangle and tossed out the window by a passing car. My incident

was reported to the Washington Twp PD, his was reported to Hackettstown

PD.

Both these incidents occured in Warren County, New Jersey. I have no

idea if this is a new thing or whether it is going on elsewhere. The potential

danger is obvious. The friend that had the plate thrown at him had a signif-

icant scratch that started on the side of his helmet and continued to the wind-

shield. If that had been a half helmet, the results would have been disastrous.

Like Phil Esterhaus (from Hill Street Blues) used to say, ‘Hey...Lets be

careful out there!’

Brian and Shira,

Thank you for holding some nice rallies several times a year. Thank you

for being the voice of reason with your editorials and lifestyle in regards to

sane motorcycling. Thank you for providing a free ad for the NewRoc HOG’s

fundraiser. Lastly, thank you for turning me on to the SkyRoll, which will

allow me to pack my tuxedo when I go to the ballroom dance weekends in

the Catskills. Thank you, thank you, thank you. BYRD

An Excellent Trip in the Making

Hey Brian and Shira,

I respect you two as the backbone of my FAVORITE MOTORCYCLE

MAGAZINE (and I get a bunch). Anyway....I’m leaving with two other solid

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 11

BACKLASH Letters to the Editor

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How a 3-day weekend turnsinto a 6-week vacation.

citizens from our group, Hudson Valley Harley Riders out of New City, Rock-

land County, NY, on a ride to ALASKA.

First stop Calgary for a day at the Stampede, then Banff and Lake Louise.

From there we ride to Fairbanks, Denali (Mt. McKinley), Anchorage and

then Kenai for some fishin’.

Returning back to Canada we will head to Vancouver to meet with the

wives for 5 days exploring Vancouver Island, Seattle, to Sturgis via Yellow-

stone, and the Beartooth Higway. Eventually to Sturgis and home via some-

where else.

All the best,

Mark Weinstein

Mark and crew: have an awesome time - sounds like an adventure for sure.

Put together some words with the pictures, we’d love to see it. Be safe and

have FUN!

B & S

Hi Brian,

Your magazine is so terrific it is difficult to think of any way to improve

it. However, I do have one suggestion regarding routes and locations of the

various road trips that are described so well with many great pictures. The

starting and/or ending location is usually easy to find in the write-up, but for

many of us not familiar with the location of a city in a particular state, a little

picture of the state (and perhaps one or two adjoining states) with a high-

lighted or blacked out area showing the general area of the route described

would be very helpful for the reader to decide if the location is close enough

to contemplate a ride (to that area). The way it is now, the reader has to either

get out a paper map or go to the computer to find the location of the city

within a given state; not a big chore, but one that could be eliminated with

just a bit more info shown pictorially.

Thanks for listening.

Dave Trabert, Richboro, Pa

Dave,

We have looked at several different mapping programs and haven’t found

any that we like. We’ll keep looking - meanwhile keep your maps handy.

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Join Us For Our OPEN HOUSESATURDAY, JULY 30 • 9A-4P

whAtchAthiNkiN’ (Continued from Page 6)

weight and warmth, which include a pair of Held Warm N Dry that I picked

up in Germany (told you I had a glove problem). Rounding out the list is my

toasty Gerbing heated for ultimate comfort on those cold days.

So, what do I reach for on any particular day? If I’m just doing an errand

or heading out for a short lunch ride my weapon of choice is my Honda. The

protection I wrap myself in would depend on temperature; warm to hot means

it’s the Airglide while cool to comfortable brings out the Morocco/AST

combo. Short ride selection for footwear would be the IXS; these have been

worn to death and have pretty much formed to the shape of my foot but have

long lost their waterproofness. Not to seem too girly, I do like to somewhat

color-coordinate so on comes the Nolan.

When heading out for a domestic road trip out comes the BMW with its

deep bags and long-distance ability. Again the weather certainly plays into

the equation, but since there’s no heading back to the closet if the weather

turns, I’m more apt to reach for the Olympia AST with its great venting and

pretty dependable waterproof hide, especially when the liner is zipped in. No

question I’m donning the Forma GTs as these hold their water well and han-

dle any amount of walking that may come into play. Out comes the Schuberth

and I’m ready to roll.

Constants on any ride are at least two pair of gloves, regular and rain, sun-

glasses, Hedz neckwear, PlugUps custom ear plugs and my trusty CamelBak.

Sure there’s a lot more stuffed in my tankbag, but these are the staples.

What about when heading somewhere on a plane, you ask? Since I’m not

in need of the Autocom set up on both bikes, I’m likely to take the newest

helmet or one in-house for testing and the gear really depends on the climate

of the riding location.

Good gear, what we preach here at Backroads Central, is essential. Some

find it in the well-worn leather jacket they’ve had since day one, others re-

quire the state-of-the-art, top-of-the-line newest, bestest there is. Whatever

suits your needs or budget, please make sure you are well-covered. And don’t

skimp on the gloves.

CROSSROADS BED AND BREAKFASTCome stay and ride with us. Our location, at the intersection ofRoutes 7 and 17 in Central Vermont, is just minutes away from

four of Vermont’s famous gaps, with direct access to the Adirondacks

802-453-5958

www.crossroadsbb.net

4571 Ethan Allen PkwyRoute 7

New Haven, VT

SPECIAL

BIKERRATES

frEE whEEliN’ (Continued from Page 4)

As I have said countless times we as riders need to put our best foot forward

– all the time.

Opening a door for the elderly while holding your helmet can go a long

way.

We are ambassadors for our sport, livelihood or lifestyle – whatever you

chose to call it - it behooves us to be as polite, accessible and friendly as we

can be.

We have a hard time with public relations as it is….

For me right now, if they allow a Prius to park I would hope they would

allow a motorcycle or scooter as well.

Sometimes all animals are equal.

Page 12 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

MAINE ADOPTS PRACTICAL TESTFOR MEASURING MOTORCYCLE SOUND

Maine has adopted a simple yet reliable testing procedure that allows mo-

torcyclists to prove their bikes don’t violate Maine’s motor vehicle sound

law, the American Motorcyclist Association reports. Under a new law that

went into effect on May 26, motorcyclists ticketed for excessive sound emit-

ting from their motorcycle exhausts can go to a certified inspection station

for sound testing. There, the exhaust system would be tested using the So-

ciety of Automotive Engineers (SAE) J2825 stationary sound testing proce-

dure — “Measurement of Exhaust Sound Pressure Levels of Stationary

On-Highway Motorcycles” — which the SAE developed and adopted with

support from the Motorcycle Industry Council in May 2009. Under the SAE

J2825 standard, which the AMA has endorsed, decibel limits range from 92

dBA at idle for all motorcycles, to 100 dBA at certain RPMs for various mo-

torcycles, depending on the type of engine. If a motorcycle meets these limits

during the certified testing, then it is evidence that the motorcycle doesn’t

violate the state’s sound law. “This new law is good news for responsible

motorcyclists who ride in Maine because it provides an objective way to

prove that a motorcycle doesn’t violate the state’s sound law, rather than re-

lying on subjective judgments,” said Imre Szauter, AMA government affairs

manager. “We applaud the state of Maine — the first in the nation — for

adopting the SAE J2825 standard.” The AMA has long

maintained a position of strong opposition to excessive

motorcycle sound. The SAE J2825 standard is at the

heart of model legislation developed by the AMA for

use by jurisdictions seeking a simple, consistent and

economical way to deal with sound complaints related

to on-highway motorcycles within the larger context of

excessive sound from all sources.

MOTORCYCLES RETURN TO JORDAN

After a 27-year hiatus, motorcycle licensing and reg-

istration returns to the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan,

thanks to King Abdullah II whose instructions were to

establish a non-profit organization to organize motor-

cycle registration and ownership in the Kingdom and

provide a safe and professional training program which

resulted in the creation of the Royal Motorcycle Club

of Jordan who, in turn, contacted the Motorcycle Safety

Foundation in 2009. As a result, on June 23, the RMCJ

will celebrate the grand opening of its MSF-recognized

Training Center in Jordan. Like the MSF, the RMCJ’s

Training Center embraces the notion that all riders need

a strong knowledge base, finely tuned skills and a

safety-first mindset that includes risk management

strategies in order to enjoy motorcycling to its fullest.

The MSF’s 23 separate RiderCourses, like some of the

programs adopted by the RMCJ, are designed to pro-

vide a lifelong action plan to keep motorcycling seri-

ously safe and fun.

“We are very pleased to be bringing motorcycling

back to Jordan with rider safety as a top priority,” said

Omar Zarour, General Manager of the Royal Motorcy-

cle Club of Jordan. “And we appreciate the MSF’s as-

sistance in developing a program and facility that will

help achieve our goals.”

The RMCJ’s Training Center incorporates versions

of MSF curricula that were adapted to the specific traf-

fic and roadway needs in Jordan. Other aspects of the

RMCJ’s Safety Training Program include site manage-

ment, program administration, student enrollment, Rid-

erCoach training and certification, and more. As part of

the program development, two RMCJ representatives

traveled to the U.S. for training, which included suc-

cessfully completing the 65-hour MSF RiderCoach

Preparation Course.

Now when do we leave on tour?

SCHUBERTH C3 AND C3W - NOW APPROVED FORJ&M COMMUNICATION SYSTEM INSTALLATION

Schuberth North America customers will now be able to have J&M corded

headsets installed in a C3 or C3W motorcycle helmet.

“Although the Schuberth Rider Communication System allows riders to

easily install a fully integrated Bluetooth system into a Schuberth C3 or

C3W,” reports Randy Northrup, Schuberth North America’s General Man-

ager, “we know that some riders would prefer to be wired into current on-

bike systems or to use CB radio. Customers who currently own J&M systems

can be assured that when they purchase a new C3 or C3W that J&M will

have a solution for connectivity to their bike and passengers.”

Customers who wish to have a J&M headset installed in a C3 or C3W will

need to purchase the helmet from an authorized Schuberth dealer and either

send the helmet to J&M or see them on-site at a motorcycle event.

“After getting our helmets tested and approved for use with the J&M in-

tegrated headset, we are happy to be able to offer this option for Schuberth

customers since J&M offers some of the best communications systems avail-

able,” says Northrup.

Details about the C3 and C3W helmets and dealer locations are available

on the Schuberth website: www.Schuberth.com

(Continued on Page 15)

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 13

INDUSTRY INFOBITES News from the Inside

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timE trAvEl

The ride I promised myself for Saturday morning soon turned into Satur-

day afternoon and ultimately it made its way to the back burner until Sunday

late in the day. Chores now completed, children dutifully parented for the

time being, I needed some bike time; 100 miles to be exact as I was still

working on those all-important break-in miles on a new machine.

With temperatures finally creeping past 50

degrees I was happy to see a group of four rid-

ing sport bikes just up ahead on the otherwise

deserted beach road. One guy had a girl on

the back of his Honda CBR. Using my well

practiced powers of observation I surmised I

was looking at an approximately 20 year old

tush as I soon caught up and passed them. I

noticed that one of the guys was on a diminu-

tive but very attractive looking 250 Ninja

which as I later learned was as perfect for him

as my own Honda 250 had been for me when

I was a neophyte rider.

The guy on the CBR turned up the testos-

terone a bit and we might have exceeded the

speed limit for a few moments before I waved

goodbye and the five of them waved back.

The judicious use of full face helmets and rid-

ing gear seemed to be a good indication that

this group would survive the season.

So, I had some concerns when, after I

stopped for a few minutes they never appeared

in my mirrors. There are few places to pull off

on this roadway so I couldn’t help wondering

if someone was stuck or worse, they crashed.

I made a U-turn at the next opening in the me-

dian. What the hell. I needed about another

40 break in miles anyway.

Seems the group had also made a U-turn

and they were now somewhere in front of me.

I didn’t see them again until I rounded the exit

ramp that marks the end of this 15 mile two

lane stretch of road. Two of them and the pas-

senger were stopped and having a not too

pleasant looking conversation with a couple

of park police. The other two were riding

slowly past the scene trying to bridge the gap

between them by shouting to one another

across the traffic lanes. Being stuck behind

them this would normally annoy me but I

knew they were addressing their comrades’

predicament.

It seemed pretty clear that the earthbound

members of the group had just got pinched for

speeding. The two that escaped the long arm

of the law found a small shoulder to pull off

on so they could talk and I kept going. Noth-

ing to see or do here. I got about three miles

before turning back again. Something was

tugging at my memory. Ahh yes, my first en-

counter with the police while I was on two wheels. Seems they didn’t like

the idea of pulling my childhood buddy on his skateboard while he held onto

a rope tethered to my unlicensed moped. The cop could have caused me quite

a bit of grief and probably got that moped taken away from me for good by

a barely tolerating mom as it were, but he followed me home and made sure

I parked it. His words and kindness sunk in because I got the thing properly

licensed the next day as mom had demanded before I ride it in the first place.

I got back to find the two guys still talking. Yes, their friends had been

going about 165 (doubtful) yes they were stopped by the police (certainly)

and of course, both of them had permits only and no licenses (often, when it

comes to 20 somethings on motorcycles).

We talked a little about bikes, riding and tickets and it was clear the two

were smart enough to be glad they didn’t get stopped and not arrogant enough

to think it had anything to do with their riding prowess. There was some

guilt about leaving their friends but also an understanding that going back

meant there would be two more tickets issued for unlicensed riders.

Through a cell phone conversation with the roadside soon-to-be jailbirds

we learned that the kind officers were actually not going to give out triple

digit speeding tickets. They were unfor-

tunately, considering impounding the

bikes because of the licensing issues.

Looking at the two guys and seeing

the fear in their eyes for the plight of

their comrades brought back memories

of summers long ago. Chris and I would

ride side by side for miles while shoot-

ing across 41 to Miami for a weekend

of fun after work was over. There was

more than one discussion with some

good police officers who taught us a few

lessons and ultimately sent us on our

way. It took a few of these little lectures

but they sunk in quickly enough to keep

us alive. Then there was Greg, Mark,

Artie and Ron and the week-long trip

down south. There were occasional dis-

cussions with police – all of them in fact

more good than bad. Yeah there was the

time…..suddenly, one of the young guys

called me “sir” and I remembered what

century I was in.

So, I rode back to the scene of the

crime to find two unbelievably under-

standing officers. My friend with the

young lass on the Honda was all but a

free man with only a ticket for operating

a vehicle out of class although the bike

had to stay. The officers then agreed to

let me follow the two guys’ home to ful-

fill the requirements of having a li-

censed rider with them so the bikes did

not have to ride shotgun on a flatbed

after all. This was despite the fact that

there seemed to be some suspicion that

my young charges had tried to elude the

pursuing officers a few minutes earlier;

on a dead straight road nonetheless. The

sheepish looks on their faces when I

asked if that was true left no doubt. It

seems that they only stopped because

one of the bikes gave out and the police

pulled up. How shortsighted. Don’t you

guy know about radios?

Although, in 1989 I unknowingly

blew past an officer in the dark of night

on a ruler straight Route 941. I was well

into the triple digits and as an added

oddity I happened to be wearing a black

tuxedo. All of the finest scofflaws do, don’t you know? The only reason he

didn’t catch me was that I ran out of gas and the bike coasted in the moonless

night in complete silence – right into the high weeds fringing the Everglades.

The now lit up patrol car sailed past me. It didn’t even dawn on me that I

was the one who attracted his attention in the first place and I wondered what

emergency he was racing to that evening. So, in my ignorance, I flipped the

reserve on and restarted the bike – my headlight shining like a beacon through

the grasses. The resulting Hollywoodesque squealing 180 the police car ex-

ecuted alarmed the egrets, the alligators and me in that order. In a split second

I knew that the officer would never believe that I did not even know I was

the pursuee and the bike losing all vital signs was a mere fortuitous coinci-

Page 14 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

INSIDE THE HELMET Jeffrey Kurtzman

dence as opposed to a deliberate effort to go into stealth mode. And how the

hell do I even begin to explain why I was wearing a tuxedo on a bike? What

followed then was a very deliberate effort to flee as I quickly pulled out and

rode two miles before hiding the bike behind the trailer I called home for the

time being. Then, I tucked myself under the covers as the spotlight from the

cruiser panned across the little units that made up the development.

I snapped out of my reverie in time to ask the guys if the officers were

going to find any issues after they returned from checking licenses and reg-

istrations. It was at that point the downward cast of a pair of eyes told me

all I needed to know. I was sure one of the guys was not going to make it

home in time for Sunday dinner that night. How did you know sir? He asked

as he hurriedly explained that he had taken the plate off of his 1999 Yamaha

and clipped it on his dad’s unregistered GSXR that was now sitting before

me. Look back a few paragraphs and see the previous aforementioned

moped/skateboard tale my boy. The lack of a license plate has failed to stymie

the will of many a lad from going for a ride when Spring arrives. Judging

by the young man’s halfhearted attempts to reach his father on the cell phone

it seemed he was more interested in facing roadside justice than pop’s wrath

at having his bike pinched. The grim look on the troopers’ faces when they

returned from their car confirmed that they discovered the deception. Even

with this newest charge the angry officers were still trying to help the guy

by insisting he reach his dad so they would not have to impound the bike.

Junior had given up the ghost and he now actually looked like a ghost when

the officers asked him to call his mother so they could talk to her. I expect

his dad is paying the police impound yard ransom right about now and his

son, Jesse James has made a run for the border thinking he committed a hang-

ing offense.

My friend on the Honda told me that this was his first season riding and

both the officer and I questioned his judgment when it came to topping over

a hundred with a young lady on the back. I would never do anything as ir-

responsible as that – well there was that girl in San Francisco. We would

wait until the streets were empty and the city was asleep. Then, we would

blast through that wonderful town; helmetless and occasionally catching a

little air as the bike flew over the hills. Decorum and the desire for a happy

marriage today forbids me from continuing.

When the officers asked her for her name and contact information, despite

a tough looking little barbell pierced through her eyebrow, the young lass on

the back of the Honda broke down in tears. I tried to look serious as she

shook her head yes to each of my questions. Yes, her mom was unaware she

was seeing someone with a bike; yes she would kill her if she found out and

yes he routinely let her off a few blocks from home so mom would not know.

How did you guess sir? Because that is the way it is supposed to work with

young men, girls and motorcycles my dear. You’ll understand that all too

soon and the world will be a little duller for it.

Soon, we were on the road and safely back at the Honda rider’s house. A

few more thank you sirs (a little grey hair will earn you those sometimes)

and we parted ways – them promising to get licenses and me wondering if

they knew how lucky they were. And not for getting away with a few tickets

- but to be young and respectful enough to be scared stiff on the side of the

road for a while, to be redeemed by some good fortune that day and to think

that a ticket or two, an impounded bike and an angry dad were going to affect

their lives forever. I (and probably those generous officers as well) got to

take a trip that spanned three decades in less than an hour. It was a good

break in ride for all of us.

iNfobitEs (Continued from Page 13)

VICTORY RIDE APP FOR YOUR SMART PHONE

Created by the devoted motorcycle enthusiasts at Victory Motorcycles, Vic-

tory Rides is a must-have app for the true American biker. With this app,

everything you need for adventures on the open road is only the touch of your

finger away.

Included features include displaying your current location, weather condi-

tions, forecasts and advisories for any location, find and contact Victory deal-

ers, local services search with integrated direct dialing, including gas stations,

restaurants, and lodging, save waypoints along your route, track and save

multiple rides, automatic map caching so maps can still be viewed while on

the trail and outside of data coverage areas, share saved routes to Twitter or

Facebook and export route data in GPX or CSV format.

You can find it at the App Store under Victory Rides and it’s free!

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 15

thE bAttlE of hubbArdtoN

vErmoNt’s oNly rEvolutioNAry bAttlEfiEld

Many riders who think they know history might tell you that the giant mon-

ument in Bennington is in honor of the Revolutionary Battle fought there.

Truth is that battle was actually fought a bit west in New York. But, Vermont

does have its own hallowed ground, miles north at Hubbardton.

This battle, if it had gone the other way, would have changed everything

and we dare say this nation would not be the same if not for Colonel Seth

Warner and the Green Mountain Boys.

Our Patriot Army was in retreat from Burgoyne’s Red Coats. When these

exhausted men had marched over 20 miles, reaching the hills of Hubbardton,

they transferred a number of soldiers from the main army to the rear guard.

The main army would continue their southward retreat and the rear guard,

now numbering 1,000 to 1,200 men,

would protect them from the pursuing

British.

Rear guards were a standard military

security strategy to protect retreating

troops. The mission of a rear guard is

to delay the enemy in their pursuit,

force the enemy to deploy all their

forces in action with the rear guard, en-

gage the enemy in such a way as to

avoid close combat, and to withdraw

safely as soon as possible.

Colonel Seth Warner led the ex-

panded American rear guard. It con-

sisted of his Green Mountain Boy

Continental regiment and some militia;

Colonel Francis leading a portion of his

Massachusetts Continental regiment

and selected units from other regi-

ments; and Colonel Nathan Hale with his 2nd New Hampshire Continental

Regiment and a number of sick and stragglers.

The advancing British were seasoned Regulars, superior to the Americans

in training, experience, and equipment. They consisted of Brigadier General

Simon Fraser, one of Burgoyne’s best line officers, and his elite Advance

Corps; Major Robert Grant with his 24th Regiment of Foot; Major Alexander

Lindsay leading the British light infantry; Major John Acland with the British

grenadiers; and Major General Baron von Riedesel and his German

Brunswick troops.

As darkness turned to dawn the sultry morning of July 7, Warner’s rear

guard was encamped in the vicinity of what is now called Monument Hill.

The exhausted men were resting before continuing south to join St. Clair’s

troops at Castleton.

At 5:00 a.m. American pickets in the saddle near Sargent Hill, to the north-

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Page 16 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

BIG CITY GETAWAY daytrip ideas to get out of the daily grind

Rip & Ride® • THE BATTLE OF HUBBARDTONVERMONT’S ONLY REVOLUTIONARY BATTLEFIELD

NORTH ON RTE. 100LEFT AT RTE. 30RIGHT AT RTE. 7 NORTH

RIGHT AT RTE. 4LEFT AT RTE. 100LEFT AT RTE. 73 BRANDONS GAP

BEAR LEFT AT SETH WARNER HIGHWAY RTE. 30LEFT AT MONUMENT HILL RD.FOLLOW SIGNS TO BATTLEFIELD

west of Monument Hill, spotted

approaching British scouts. The

pickets fired, and moved back to

join their main body. By 6:30, as

the first British soldiers reached

Sucker Brook, the American de-

laying companies started

firing-killing Major Grant

and 21 others. Thus began

the Battle of Hubbardton,

the first time Burgoyne’s

army met the resistance

and bravery of Ameri-

cans in battle.

Some of the American rear guard

moved to a strategic defensive location atop Monument

Hill, which they had prepared the day before by cutting

down trees so the tangle of outstretched branches faced

the enemy. The British attacked the hill, but were re-

pulsed and forced back to their former position.

The Americans returned to the hilltop and again the

British attacked and were repulsed. The battle continued

on as the British tried to encircle the Americans, who

consolidated their position behind a brush fence on the

east side of the road to Castleton. British General Fraser

realized he needed reinforcements to win the battle and

sent word to von Riedesel, following behind, to join

him.

British grenadiers, trying to keep the rear guard from

retreating southward, scrambled up the rugged Pittsford

Ridge mountain, well to the east beyond the fence, and

formed a human barrier across the road and up the

mountain. By 8:30 a.m. von Riedesel’s Brunswickers

had arrived, with a band playing loudly and soldiers

singing hymns. They attacked the American northern

flank, which was just about to trap the British on their

left. In the fierce fighting on the mountain Colonel Fran-

cis was killed. The rest of the American rear guard with-

drew as best as they could over Pittsford Ridge. There

was occasional gunfire along the ridge for some time,

but by 8:45 a.m. the battle was over.

The American rear guard had successfully accom-

plished its mission. It fully deployed the pursuing

British, delaying them long enough so St. Clair and his

main army could safely retreat southward. These sol-

diers also skillfully disengaged from their enemy, fight-

ing the British to a near standstill, and avoiding further

American casualties and pursuit. The British held the

field after the fighting was over and in technical terms

won the battle, but their losses were so heavy that Gen-

eral Fraser gave up chasing St. Clair and his army. In-

stead, the British stayed at Hubbardton for several days

to care for the wounded and to bury their own dead.

They left the American dead on the field, and brought

the wounded and prisoners north to Mount Independ-

ence and Fort Ticonderoga.

The Battle of Hubbardton involved approximately

2,130 troops; 1,000 to 1,200 Americans, 850 British,

and 180 Germans. It resulted in the deaths of 41 Amer-

ican, 50 British, and 10 German soldiers. Of the 244

wounded 96 were American, 134 British, and 14 Ger-

man. The British took 234 American prisoners. Total casualties, including

prisoners, were roughly 27 percent of all participating troops.

This battle was the beginning of the end for Burgoyne and his great mili-

tary plan. On August 16 he suffered a stunning blow when Brigadier General

John Stark led American forces to defeat two detachments of Burgoyne’s

army sent to capture much needed supplies at the American arsenal in Ben-

nington, Vermont. Soon after the Battle of Bennington Burgoyne wrote about

the people of Vermont as “the most active

and most rebellious race on the continent”

and that they were hanging “like a gathering

storm” on his left. On October 17, 1777,

after the battles of Saratoga, he surrendered

with his entire Army.

Today visiting the battle site the area has

a peaceful and serene feel. The monument,

although small compared to the huge one in

Bennington, is stately and well suited for

the site. For a few dollars you can walk the

battlefield and small informative plaques

will tell the story.

Next time you’re riding in Vermont take

a spin to Hubbardton. This ride will start

from one of our favorite places in Vermont,

the Gray Ghost Inn.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 17

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MEMBERMEMBER

Elk mountain homestead 401 homestead drive , benezette, PA 15821

(814) 787-5168 • experienceelkcountry.com

Right off of Pennsylvania’s triple nickel, Route 555, you will find a most

magical place.

When we were there the silence was deafening. Barn Swallows flitted

around us as we sat atop the silo overlooking something that had disappeared

years ago, only to be returned thanks to some forward-thinking people.

Elk. Huge, beautiful….majestic.

This was our second attempt at visiting the elk of Pennsylvania. Heavy

storms had stopped us after our Spring

Break and we were determined

to find us some elk.

Riding into Benezette we

headed to the new visitor’s cen-

ter. Opened just last Fall, it

gives the traveler a great insight on the elk and how and why this has all hap-

pened. The museum is great, but the movie is superb! Literally 4-D! It

snowed on us.

When we entered the visitor’s center, around 5pm, we were told the elk

probably wouldn’t return for a few hours as they take shelter in the shade

during the hot summer hours. We inquired about lodging in the area and were

told of a house that they have on the grounds; an old homestead that has been

redone to offer the best place in the region to view elk.

Why take a hotel room when you can have a home?

Three bedrooms, each with its own flavor; the Bunkhouse, the Louis

Bergen County Harley-Davidson Presents

WE’RE OUTTA HERE a weekend destination keeping you on the backroads

Page 18 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

A Motorcycle Is The Ultimate Toy,Vermont Is The Perfect Playground®

We put it together…The Gray Ghost Inn

Full breakfast cooked to order. BYOB bar, hot tub,outdoor firepit, pool and game room. Free Mapsand Suggested Rides. Group Special Packages.

5 restaurants/bars within walking distance.

290 Route 100 • West Dover, VT800-745-3615 • www.grayghostinn.com

Motorcyclist-Friendly Destination LodgingLocated on

Scenic Route 100in Southern Vermont

Your Home Away from Home

L’Amour room and, what we called the Hunter’s Room.

Up until this night we had never slept beneath a Tom Turkey or Bearskin. Now we have.

Whoever designed this place really deserves credit as it is Americana all the way.

Rates for the Homestead change seasonally, with peak season naturally being in the autumn months.

Base peak price is $200 per night for six people and lower in the summer months, as well as during the

week. Even better is that proceeds from your stay go back to help the elk and other wildlife through the

Keystone Elk Country Alliance. Check the site for full details.

Best of all is the Silo. Just a few steps from the Homestead there is a multi-story silo that has a sitting

area atop it. From here you can get a great view of the meadow where the elk come to forage each night.

When we arrived we spent some time at the Museum and then, as we wanted to see the elk, we headed

to the Benezette Hotel for a quick dinner. They have a great bar and restaurant and, if the Homestead is

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 19

too large or dear for you, they have rooms as well.

Fed and watered we headed back to the Visitor’s Center, taking in the very

interesting documentary of the elk.

At one time there were thousands of Elk in this region, but when Europeans

arrived they basically devastated the herds.

In the early 1900’s elk were reintroduced from the Rockies and since then

have flourished under the watchful eye of Pennsylvania.

These days the Visitor’s Center and Homestead are a small jewel of the

Keystone State.

They have also introduced fishers – much to the anger of local porcupines.

Back at the Homestead we made ourselves comfortable and then headed

up to the Silo for sunset and a bit of elk viewing.

A bottle of Pinot Noir came along and we were at the beginning of this

story. It really doesn’t get any better than this night.

Page 20 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

SUSSEXMOTORSPORTS446 Route 23 • Sussex, NJ • Located across from the A&P Shopping Plaza

Visit us at www.sussexmotorsportsnj.com973-875-3640 • Open Tuesday thru Saturday

47MPG

Estimated*MOTORCYCLEMADNESS8 State Hwy 94 • Lafayette, NJ • 973-579-6088 • 877-252-9828

Located 1/4 mile north of 206/94 intersectionand 1 mile north of Newton

Tues: 9-6 • Wed: 9-5 • Thurs: 10-8 • Fri: 10-5 • Sat: 9-2

Closed: Sunday and Monday

www.MadMotorcycle.com

HUGE selection of Parts and Accessories for cruisers and sportbikes

600 Helmets In Stock:Icon, Shoei, Suomy, HJC, Scorpion and more

HUGE selection of apparel:Mens and Womens - Street and Dirt

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Rip & Ride® • ELK MOUNTAIN HOMESTEAD401 HOMESTEAD DRIVE , BENEZETTE, PA 15821814-787-5168 • EXPERIENCEELKCOUNTRY.COM

PICK UP ROUTE 6 WEST OF SCRANTON, PABEAR LEFT AT ROUTE 87LEFT AT ROUTE 220RIGHT AT ROUTE 154 – WORLD’S END STATE PARK

LEFT AT ROUTE 14 – GROVER

RIGHT AT SR 2017 – OGDENSBURG RD

LEFT AT ROUTE 414RIGHT AT SR N 44 TO HAINEYVILLE

LEFT AT SR 1014 TO HYNER STATE PARK

RIGHT AT ROUTE 120 PAST RENOVO

BEAR LEFT AT ROUTE 555 TO BENEZETTE

FOLLOW RIGHT PAST HOTEL

CONTINUE UP HILL TO VISITOR CENTER

Below us workhorses snorted and stomped. Out in the field dozens of elk cows wandered out for an evening’s

meal, small calves along with them.

Suddenly to our left a huge male came out,

his antlers just starting to grow at this time

of the season.

We watched silently as the elk enjoyed the

first evening of summer with us.

So, other than the elk, the Homestead and

the Museum… why should you journey to

Elk Country?

Simple – some of the best riding in the

east!

This region has it all.

Now you know this little secret… what

are you waiting for?

Give them a call… book the Homestead.

Each year we do the Best of Backroads;

we’d have to be invited to the White House

for any place to top this.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 21

Town and CountryCYCLE CENTER

115 Route 23N • Hamburg NJ • 973-875-2111www.townandcountrycyclecenter.com

Serving the motorcycling community for over 25 years

Tim Wineland

Evil rocks

A rAiNy Night iN gEorgiA guidEstoNEs couNtry

It is a dark and stormy night…

The rain pummels the metal roof. It is incessant, hopeless. It beats a rapid,

staccato cadence in the thick air of my tiny abode, into my brain. Unrelent-

ing; a demonic drum-roll reminding me of the misfortunes that guided me to

this place, this meager refuse; this squalid ten-by-twelve storage shed outside

a convenience store; outside Elberton, Georgia; just across the river from

South Carolina; just on the edge of in-

sanity. It reminds me that I have to pee.

My tortured mind remembers. I re-

member packing this morning for a

leisurely trip to see a strange and forlorn

obelisk: a stone enigma that defies logic

and geography; a monument to worldly

dreams or domination piled high in a

lowly cow pasture. I remember the

mysterious words of wisdom or worry,

I dare not say which, in various and ar-

chaic languages inscribed upon the

smooth rock faces. I remember now

where I left my rain suit.

I remember donning the rain suit

early as teasing showers lurked about;

sporadic spells of half-hearted drizzle,

but nothing of substance. Then they

were gone; dispelled by some mystic

wind as I arrived at my beguiling desti-

nation. Perhaps the artifact itself has

some power over atmospheric convec-

tion; perhaps it is immune to the laws of

nature and Georgia. The sky was sud-

denly blue, the air curiously calm – like

that before a storm, it seems to me now.

I recall removing my warm, waterproof coverings and marveling at the

bizarre structure before me: an immense granite monolith…no, a multi-lith;

a tribute to calligraphy, an insult to common sense. I remember the stark

runes emblazoned upon each surface of the towering atrocity and wondering

who, or what, had determined the omnipotent verbiage; and that it should be

displayed in the eight worldly scripts of English, Spanish, Swahili, Hindi,

Hebrew, Arabic, Chinese, and Russ-

ian – nine counting the graffiti. It

left no doubt as to why the French

despise us so.

Many learned folks insist the text

implores mankind to cooperate, to

seek understanding, to tread com-

mon cow pastures betwixt steaming

piles of political poo. Or maybe not.

The enlightened local scholars and

rural clergy have instead discovered

its true intent.

The stone absurdity is an abomi-

nation, an occultist’s calling card; a

“gift” from unknown persons for

unknown reasons, certainly evil. As

if in mocking disregard for all that

is sacred, a viewing hole is drilled

through the top stone and aligned to

the North Star. Having looked

through it during a weaker moment,

HARLEY-DAVIDSON/BUELL

LONG BRANCH 671 BROADWAY • LONG BRANCH, NJ • 732-229-8518 • www.hdlongbranch.com

You are invited to attend our Open House starring

the 2012 Super Models of Harley-Davidson

Supporting Cast Includes:

Demo Rides • Free LunchThe Patch Lady

Live Music by GunsmokeEnd-of-Season Sidewalk Saleand 15% Off Licensed Products

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Page 22 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Morton’s BMW Motorcycles Presents

Dr. Seymour O’Life’s MYSTERIOUS AMERICA

I now fear for my soul.

It makes sense; my vile predicament now has reason. I am imprisoned in

this musty metallic tomb because I frequented an atrocity, paid homage to

satanic stones, read blasphemous blathering, glimpsed an unholy hole. The

grotesque image is burned upon my brain; my eyes see naught but gruesome

granite piled in sacrilege to the sky, that fleeting, absurdly blue sky that so

quickly turned black and malicious and is imploring my bladder to burst…

Oh, the horror… the horror…

Georgia Guidestones, Elberton, Georgia:

In June of 1979, an unknown person or persons under the pseudonym R.C.

Christian hired Elberton Granit Finishing Company to build the structure.

The site was chosen for its remoteness and its source of granite, as Elbertson

promotes itself as the ‘Granite Capital of the World’. The location makes

some sense from a logistical point of view; but it boggles the mind as to why

such a rural landscape was chosen for such a mysterious message.

Apparently Mr. Christian left $50,000 in a local bank, told the locals that

they would never see him again, and vanished forever. The citizens of Nuberg

followed his instructions and in March of 1980 unveiled this ‘Stonehenge’

to the world. Well, somewhere between 100 and 400 people, anyway.

The following ‘rules’ are displayed in English, Spanish, Swahili, Hindi,

Hebrew, Arabic, Chinese, and Russian:

An Explanatory Tablet located on the grounds explains the curious astro-

nomical features, such as the precise alignment and viewing holes drilled

into the stones, as well as the daunting Physical Data: the four support stones

are over 16 feet high, weighing approximately 43,000 pounds each. The en-

tire structure looms to nearly 20 feet high and weighs in at around 107 tons.

Elberton is approximately two hours due east of Atlanta, one and a half-

hours southwest from Greenville, South Carolina. The physical address for

the Georgia Guidestones is 1065 Guidestones Rd., Nuberg, GA, just outside

of Elberton. For more information on this entry into Mysterious America,

you can google Georgia Guidestones or visit Elberton’s Granite Museum (1

Granite Plaza NW, Elberton, GA) where there is an exhibit about the Guide-

stones and additional information.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 23

Maintain humanity under 500,000,000 in perpetual balance with nature.

Guide reproduction wisely - improving fitness and diversity.

Unite humanity with a living new language.

Rule passion - faith - tradition - and all things with tempered reason.

Protect people and nations with fair laws and just courts.

Let all nations rule internally resolving external disputes in a world court.

Avoid petty laws and useless officials.

Balance personal rights with social duties.

Prize truth - beauty - love - seeking harmony with the infinite.

Be not a cancer on the earth - Leave room for nature - Leave room for nature.

Vince Johnson

kAthy’s crAb housE ANd fAmily rEstAurANt

107 fifth strEEt/routE 9, dElAwArE city, dE • 302-834-2279

The two live crabs were crawling across the counter. Watching them made

me think, ‘Who decided you could eat a crab’. Whoever it was must have

been one very hungry person. I wondered if they invented beer also. Kathy,

her teenage son RJ, and Amy had let the crabs loose for some pictures.

Kathy’s originally opened as a small local seafood market in 1982 and

served only take-out for many years. In 2000 they built a new restaurant

with a small, attached lighthouse (not one to climb up) and an enclosed deck.

While it is a family-oriented restaurant, they do serve beer and wine and mo-

torcyclists are welcome.

Some of the items on their menu include appetizers like crab

bisque, steamed shrimp, clam

strips, hushpuppies, mozzarella sticks, and onion rings. They have tossed and

Caesar salads with chicken or shrimp. Subs include Italian, ham,

turkey, tuna and cheese steaks. The kids menu has hamburg-

ers, hot dogs and grilled cheese. The sandwich menu in-

cludes crab cakes, flounder, ham, turkey, Reuben and

chicken wraps. Dinner entrees include a corn muffin

and two choices of macaroni salad, potato salad, green

beans, coleslaw or fries along with the crab cakes,

flounder, scallops, chicken, turkey or meatloaf. There

is apple pie and the usual selection of beverages.

Kathy’s is located next to Route 9 and the Chesa-

peake and Delaware Branch Canal. Route 9 is a

pleasant motorcycle ride that partially winds its

way between Delaware City and Dover,

Delaware. Between Delaware City and

Dover there are no red lights and only a

few stop signs. The upper third follows

Page 24 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

GREAT ALL AMERICAN DINER RUN tasty places to take your bike

the Delaware River and the Delaware Bay, while the

rest of it winds its way through farmlands and ends on

the East side of Dover Air Force Base. The C5 cargo

aircraft there are huge. It is about 40 miles and an hour

or so drive from Delaware City to Dover. It can be

slightly bumpy in places and there are no shoulders. As

it follows the river, it is a flat ride and barely above sea

level. If you travel it at high tide or when there are

strong onshore winds you will occasionally find your-

self driving below sea level through water that crosses

the road.

On the river side of Delaware City is Fort Delaware.

The ferry boat ride there takes about 10 minutes, and

you may easily spend several hours searching the Civil

War period Fort and the grounds of Pea Patch island.

There is a fee for the boat ride and entry. See

www.destateparks.com/park/fort-delaware/index.aspt

for information. The State Park is open on a limited

schedule from May thru September.

Over the years we have eaten at Kathy’s many times.

It is reasonably priced, although seafood market prices

vary considerably, has a pleasant atmosphere, and the

folks that work there have always been pleasant to us.

Like any restaurant they get crowded sometimes, but

we are rarely in a hurry these days.

Kathy’s is open seasonally from April thru October,

seven days a week from 11am to 9PM. Their web site is http://kathyscrab-

house.com/index.html. Their phone number is 302.834.2279. It is located at

107 Fifth Street (Route 9) in Delaware City, Delaware. The GPS coordinates

are N39.5708° & W75.5914°.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 25

For many of you - us too - Americade is a yearly ritual. It signals a passage of the seasons when it doesn’t seem all that long ago we were shoveling snow,

then planting the garden, riding our Spring Break Rally and suddenly we find ourselves piloting down Canada Street along the southern shores of

beautiful Lake George, New York.

For two decades and a bit we have taken the quick ride from our home to the world’s largest motorcycle touring rally, located in the southern part of the

Adirondack Mountains. Most times we are on the road the weekend before and make a few stops before rolling into Americade; but this year we had the July

issue to finish and take care of a few things before escaping north.

We had planned a dawn departure that Tuesday, but with all done by early Monday afternoon we decided to skedaddle a day early and blasted off that Monday

afternoon.

Page 26 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Americade - Back to the LakeBrian Rathjen

We meandered north along the eastern side of ‘The Gunks’ (Shawangunk

Mountains for you non-New Yorkers) and then made time on the Thruway

north and did the short 200 miles in superb time; rolling into town as the sun

was about to set.

We grabbed our townhouse, Backroads Central North, at the Inn at Erlow-

est and, after saying hi to our short-term neighbors and long-time friends,

we rode into town to take in the fairly light crowds and some Mexican chow.

The place was just starting to get full, but Monday evening made for a

great combination of people and bike watching.

Shira asked me what my first

thoughts were riding back after com-

ing here for so many years.

Truthfully it is something that hits

inside. And, it’s a good thing.

Many years and many smiles come

along with Americade. I was ready for

another great week.

Tuesday started with a run to the

Holiday Inn to get our wristbands, pay

the ever-increasing parking fee, and

say hello to a few friends along the

way.

Americade offers a multitude of ac-

tivities; but one cannot have the entire

Americade experience without visit-

ing the Tour Expo, located on the lake

and the Forum - the indoor version of the Expo. With the Forum right down

the road we went looking to see what was new.

There seemed to be plenty of tour operators playing up different place to

ride around the planet – always a good thing for us – and some neat new

products as well as some of the solid players in the motorcycle world.

Olympia Motosports had a huge booth and was doing a brisk business, as

were many others, and we made it a point to drop by Garmin as well to see

what was new and to get our GPS updated with the latest software.

Along the way we ran into Clement Salvadori.

Clem, whom you will find

each month in RIDER as well as

other motorcycle publications,

was representing the California-

based magazine and, in addition

to speaking and hosting a few

functions, he also was to share a

scoot with a lucky RIDER win-

ner who had won a contest to

ride with the famed journalist.

For many folks who read word

samurais like Clement Salvadori

and others each month in the na-

tional magazines, getting a

chance to ride with and spend

some time with such scribes can

be a chance of a lifetime. We

thought for Clement it was a bit

like being raffled off for a celebrity date. But, Clem is always a good sport.

After chatting with him a bit we thought it would be fun to tag along. If

anything we would get us a chance to ride with our world-traveling friend.

Right on time Rory Anderson, from Lancaster, Pennsylvania joined Clem

and the four of us took off

north along the lake and

then west on Route 8, one

of my favorite roads in

the region. We eventually

had a late lunch at a small

place in Chester.

All in all it was a great

ride and enjoyable lunch,

Rory being an interesting

fellow and a pleasure to

be with.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 27

By this time the two-wheeled traffic was ever-

increasing and after lunch we headed down to

the Tour Expo to take it all in before things got

really crowded.

The previous few days had been rather pleas-

ant but we were warned of some pretty hot days

in store.

By the time we were done with the Tour Expo

it was certainly time to retreat to our townhouse

and the nearby pool for the rest of the afternoon.

Somewhere around 6ish our friends Michael

and Nuri, from Rising Wolf Garage, arrived. We

have been sharing a place with these folks for

more than two decades (wow!) and it was nice

to have our little Americade family back to-

gether.

That evening we rode down to Fort William

Henry, the site of the famed siege during the

French & Indian War and the inspiration for

James Fenimore Cooper’s Last of the Mohicans.

For years most of the activities and demo

rides Americade is famous for were run out of

the Roaring Brook Ranch, but this year every-

thing was moved to the centrally-located Fort

on the lake. Excellent location.

This year also saw the re-

turn of many manufac-

turer’s demo fleets, with a

full fourteen OEMs trailer

machines to be ridden,

tested and enjoyed by

Americaders. Most brought

up full fleets, but some just

brought up their newest offering. Still it was

good to see all the manufacturers supporting

the great American rally.

This night there were a number of excellent

seminars. Riding guru Lee Parks, followed by

Clem Salvadori and perennial Americade fa-

vorite Fred Rau. We hung around for a bit of

each and then took off to find some late night

dining and a run through town that was getting

more and more full each evening.

Wednesday promised to be a scorcher, as a

serious heat wave had moved into the north-

east, so we got out early and proceeded to try

our best at getting lost.

Well…. as lost as you can get with the now

‘ever present’ Garmin GPS on both machines

and US Military satellites keeping track high

above.

Still we managed to find some great roads

a bit off the beaten track and a few miles on

well-groomed gravel to give the GSs a little

‘crudentials’.

Heading west into the Adirondack Park we

had to keep an eye on the clock as we had a lunch gathering we needed to at-

tend around noon on the lake.

At 11:30 I asked the Zumo the best way to get back to Lake George and a

few seconds later we were vectoring on that route – just 25 minutes out.

While moving on the bike, with plenty of cooling air making its way into

our Olympia vented riding gear it seemed like the perfect day.

I had some classic Chicago working softly in the headsets and all was right

with the world. Heading past Lake Luzerne there was a road block up ahead

Page 28 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Photo: Mike Fischer

Photo: Mike Fischer

Photo: Ken Kelly

with the highway department telling us to head

down an unmarked road and to bear left to get

back on Route 9N.

I wondered what would cause road workers to

put up a makeshift detour. Roadwork is usually

planned weeks or months ahead of time with

semi-permanent detour signs put up a day or two

before work begins.

Shira radioed the same thought to me and we

worried that something bad might have happened.

As detours go this was a delightful change of

plans, as this tiny road was most excellent, but

when we popped back out onto Route 9N I saw

this side of the road was blocked by Sheriff’s cars.

I signaled one young officer over and asked

what was up.

“Motorcycle accident,” he said matter-of-factly.

“Is everybody all right?” I inquired.

“Well”, he said a bit too flippantly, “the semi-truck driver is fine but the

two bikers are dead”.

My heart sank as the beautiful sunny day had just darkened quite a bit.

We heard later that the accident involved a semi carrying steel I-beams

that was cut off, by a motorcyclist, and had stopped short causing one of the

badly secured steel beams to swing off to the side of the truck, killing the

approaching rider and his passenger, two Canadians, in-

stantly.

Very sad to hear, but things like this are constant con-

cerns to we riders – although I don’t think anything

could have been done in a freakish accident such as this.

Our thoughts to them and their families.

We like to split up Americade between fun and busi-

ness and many times a sweet combination of both.

Lunch with our friends from Whitehorse Press is al-

ways a treat and a good chance to catch up with a few

of the other scribes in the motorcycle world.

After lunch that afternoon Shira was on a mission.

A very cool and tasty mission; as she was in the mid-

dle of her summer ice cream runs and had seen a

“Throwdown with Bobby Flay” that pitted New York’s

favorite chef against a woman who owned a place called

The Ice Cream Man.

We had a great ride and even greater ice cream and

then rode east to the border with Vermont then north

back towards the Lake George region.

That night Ken Condon, safety writer for Motorcycle

Consumer News, had a very instructional seminar and

drew a decent crowd. Folks like Ken are well worth

reading and the knowledge safety experts can infuse

into you just might save your life.

We bounced around that evening visiting some

friends for dinner and making it an early night.

A few days earlier Shira had watched some folks

parasailing over the lake and commented how she al-

ways wanted to do this.

As I live to please her I surprised her with a little

flight the next morning.

Strapped into two very secure har-

nesses the powerboat picked up speed

and before we knew it we were 300

feet above the water with a wonderful

birds eye view of the Queen of Ameri-

can Lakes.

After lunch we strolled the demo

area up at Fort Henry and then took no-

tice of the darkening clouds coming in

from the west.

The heat this day was oppressive and

a strong storm front was making its

way through New York and bringing

with it, hopefully, a cooler and more

comfortable atmosphere.

The storms that came through were on the violent side and we felt badly

for anyone caught out on the road, or water (you know who you are) while

these squalls rolled through.

As promised the rain brought a bit of relief from the heat and humidity

and, once again, Americade had superb weather return.

When the storms had lightened we headed down to the indoor Forum for

another walkabout and then met some friends to head up to Warrensburg.

This was not to partake in the “not really Americade stuff,” though Nick

Pleznick does have seriously great products, but to stop by Warrensburg’s

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 29

real treat – the famous Oscar’s Smoke-

house.

This meat store has been a staple in these

parts for decades and with our planned Fri-

day night barbeque get-together forming

up nicely Oscar’s was a must.

Thursday evening we had tickets to see

two comedians - Jodi Weiner and “Last Co-

median Standing” winner Alonzo Bodden.

We got into town early and stopped at

Giuseppe’s for some pizza and to watch the

crowds and bikes go by. The fellow at the

table next to us looked so familiar and it

took us a minute or two to remember Jerry

who had ridden with us in Mexico a few

years back. You never know just who you

will run into at Americade.

The two comedians were a hoot, with Alonzo doing a wonderful job of

making fun of all the different motorcycle brands equally.

Thursday night found Canada Street packed and we eventually found a

spot and had the required ice cream before walking up and down the strip.

People watching here is almost as fun as bike watching.

With perfect riding weather promised for Friday we had a plan for some

miles on some interesting Adirondack roads.

Up and out early we visited with Fred

Rau and his coffee club at 7am and then

grabbed breakfast with Fred and Cher-

rie before meeting up with friends for a

loop into the Adirondack Park and

down through Lake Sacandaga.

This morning was a full 30 degrees

cooler then the previous day with mid-

morning temperatures in the 60s. With

the best day of the entire week on tap

all the venues were crowded, as were

many of the roads. A light cloud cover

kept the day on a pleasant side and we

did a nice 200 mile loop first north, then

south and then north again through the

tiny burgs that call the largest park in

New York home.

With our annual Americade barbeque time quickly coming up that night I

did one more lap of the Tour Expo and picked up a new shield from Nolan

for my helmet and some new OSI lightweight covers for the bikes. If you re-

ally need it you will probably find it at the Expo.

That night we had about two dozen friends, riders and industry types come

over for food and fun.

The folks from Olympia had brought a Yamaha along for the ride – Yamaha

guitar, not bike. Excellent.

Meanwhile many Americaders headed to the closing

ceremonies and fireworks at the Great Escape Park, just

south of Lake George.

If the beginning of the week was blistering hot, it fin-

ished a bit on the cool and wet side.

A soggy rain front sailed in from the west and Satur-

day was not the greatest day but Americaders made the

best of it, filling up the Expo and Forum in search of

last day deals.

Many Americaders braved the fog and clouds up at

Prospect Mountain for the final barbeque, but we had

other plans.

We did our last lap of it all, and then took a ride south

to the Outlet store so Shira could buy a pair of Vibram

shoes (silly five toed shoes, if you ask me) and we

picked up a pair each for our favorite little girls Mia and

Tessa who would look so cool with them.

With the rain continuing on and off this day indoors

seemed better than out and Sunday promised to be a bet-

ter day, especially for those heading home.

That Sunday, as usual, we did a quick pass by the now

very empty streets of Lake George. Compared to the

huge crowds of the previous week the place had an al-

most ghost town look to it early on Sunday.

We started heading south riding the big road to New

Paltz and then a quick 70 backroads miles to home.

As much as we like Americade it is always good to

pull into your own driveway and home.

Another Americade done and in the books…only 51

weeks to go till the next one.

Page 30 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Some years ago – 24 to be exact – a bunch of north Jersey riders got to-

gether and decided to do a run into Little Italy for some food and maybe raise

a bit of money for some local families.

Nearly a quarter century later Gooch’s Garlic Run is the biggest ride in the

region, bringing together riders of all makes and models for a great night of

bikes, food, camaraderie and good cause.

But, last year things changed.

Gooch’s has been known for the occasional smattering of moisture. Last

year some big storms canceled the ride until the rain date, but the permits

that were good for one day were not for the other and Gooch’s Garlic Run

for 2010 stayed at the Rockaway Mall – the traditional starting site.

For years the Blue Knights IX had a running battle with the folks in Little

Italy. Restaurateurs loved the idea of an incredibly busy Wednesday night,

but the Yuppie apartment dwellers detested the raucous evening.

With the hassles of a run to Little Italy growing, a Plan B was needed. In

stepped Newark Deputy Police Chief Anthony Campos, who suggested

bringing Gooch’s Garlic Run to the Ironbound section of Newark, New Jer-

sey.

If you have never been to the Ironbound then you have missed some seri-

ous Spanish and Portuguese delight.

Besides not having to ride into Manhattan through the choking Holland

Tunnel is a blessing all itself.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 31

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So now Gooch’s is an all-Jersey thing – and we

like it that way!

This year the weather was as good as it gets

and as Campos said he thought, “We re-

ceived the okay from a Higher Authority”

that the move to Newark was so blessed

weather-wise. We agree.

With almost 1,000 riders staging at

the Rockaway TownSquare Mall, the

afternoon was exceptional. Vendors

of food and motorcycle stuff on

hand with their offerings as was the

band Swampers to entertain.

The ride went fairly smoothly,

except for me having to dodge yet

another rider who had a gravity storm

right in front of me – this happens a lot to me on these sorts of rides - and

about 45 minutes later, after an easy ride along I-80 and 280 both of which

were lined with pedestrians cheering the ride on, we pulled into the Iron-

bound.

The Iberia Restaurant had set up a giant picnic in their large castle-framed

lot and the band Street Hassle and the Brass Balls, complete with full horn

section and back-up singers Word Mamas were beyond awesome. Any band

that can play ‘Vehicle’ and ‘Make Me Smile’ will do just that. This band, like

so many others involved, donated all their time and ef-

forts to make this the best Gooch’s we can remember.

When Ariana requested Lady Gaga and the band and

the other children all sang and played along, you could-

n’t help but have a smile on your face. It’s something

they will remember for a long time, as will we.

We avoided a bit of the crowd and ducked into

Iberia’s restaurant across the street for seafood and

steaks. You will never go hungry in the Ironbound.

Part of the almost $40,000 proceeds from this year’s

Garlic Run went to Ariana McGuire, an 8-year-old girl,

who survived a stroke and bleeding that resembled an aneurysm after a metal-

tipped arrow pierced her brain last summer, Steven Yang, 16, who suffered

a brain injury in a car accident, Juliana Moreno, a 2-year-old with leukemia

and Daniel Zawaski, 9, who has a brain tumor.

Next year will be the 25th anniversary of this run. Put it on your calendar

- Wednesday, June 13, 2012 - and you’ll find out why Jersey rocks!

To check on other Blue Knight NJ IX runs visit their website:

www.bknjix.org/RideSchedule.html

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 35

Bill Amadio

What did I want for my 60th birthday? That was

easy. A road trip. A BIG road trip.

Since a bout with Graves’ disease effectively

ended my wife Camille’s riding career, I’ve done my

riding separate from our vacations together. This

time, I wanted them both, so we set about finding an

exotic location with great riding in the morning and

great husband-and-wife tourism in the afternoon.

We chose Bagni di Lucca (bahn-yi d loo-ka), a once-

grand spa town in a lesser-known area of Tuscany

called the Garfagnana (gar-phan-ya-na).

Bagni di Lucca sits in a steep gorge cut by

a white-water river called Torrente Lima.

Town life centers around the three bridges that

cross the Lima. SS12, the main drag through

the town, is a state road (Strada Statale) that

runs from the lovely small city of Lucca,

home of opera composer Giacomo Puccini, to

the lovely small city of Modena, home of

opera greats Luciano Pavarotti and Mirella

Freni. Must be something in the water!

Page 36 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

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The town is beautiful and active.

During the evening walk (called passeg-

giata), the parks and fountains attract

townsfolk of all ages, from running kids

and cruising teens to gray-haired cou-

ples and friends who probably ran and

cruised the same spots way back when.

A network of staircases and switchback

paths lead up from the river to terraced

farms and postcard views of the gorge

and the town.

We stayed at the Park Hotel Regina

(www.coronaregina.it/index.php), a

17th century palazzo converted into a

wonderful hotel with a great restau-

rant and pool and the most friendly

and helpful owner and staff. Cost:

€100 ($140)/night for a room with a

terrace overlooking the river, break-

fast included.

Renting a bike in Italy was remark-

ably simple. I worked with a great

guy named Francesco at Central Italy

Motorcycle Tours

(www.cimt.it) who pro-

vided a fully-equipped

BMW F650 GS at a

reasonable price. The

bike was perfect for the

Garfagnana, and ran

great the whole trip.

For 10 sun-drenched

mornings, I was on the

road by 7 and back by

11. That may not sound

like much time, but it worked because I had no travel time to the mountains,

and I saved the sightseeing for later in the day with Camille. My only stops

were for espresso and some tire kicking at motorcycle-friendly coffee shops

(bars in Italian) that were everywhere in this region.

Camille’s mornings involved sketching, walking, taking pictures, practic-

ing her Italian with the locals and bringing back treasures from Bagni’s great

wine and food shops. By noon, we were on our way to a tourist city like

Florence (Firenze) or Pisa, or off the beaten path to a medieval hill town or

a relaxing thermal spa. At night, we slept very well.

SS12 through the Lima gorge hugs the mountainside and winds around

every jutting rock face and up and down every contour in the land. Heaven!

One right hand sweeper on this road went on for so long I started giggling

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 37

inside my helmet. Just like a kid at Christ-

mas! With so many curves coming so

fast, I found myself riding with my index

finger covering the front brake lever. All

those pictures of racers doing the same

thing suddenly made sense.

Side roads off SS12 go in one direction:

up. They travel into desolate, but stun-

ningly beautiful, country. As is typical for

Italy, they never really veer far from civi-

lization. Along these

roads, I passed rustic

restaurants busily pre -

paring for Sunday lunch

and even small towns

whose only level ground

was on platforms built

out over the cliffside.

One of these towns was

at the top of a set of switchbacks so steep I

doubted I could ride it. When an oncoming

bus rounded the corner I was fearing, I de-

cided I could make it after all, especially

since the driver took the curve without so

much as a pause in his conversation with a

passenger.

People have lived along Garfagnana’s

waterways since before the Romans, so I

found a variety of crossings. The oddly-

lopsided Ponte del Diavolo (Devil’s

Bridge), built in the 11th century, really

captured my imagination. One legend sur-

rounding the bridge tells of the builder call-

ing upon the devil to finish the especially

difficult construction in exchange for the

first soul to cross the bridge. In a time before SPCAs, the builder got away

with sending a dog (or pig) on the initial crossing. The enraged devil tried to

destroy the bridge, succeeded only in distorting its shape, and finally threw

himself into the river below. I spent a nice break at the bridge sipping cap-

puccino and talking to a German couple touring on a 1200GS.

North of Bagni, the roads break out of the gorge and head up to ski country

and the Abetone Pass. Pass roads are the quickest ways out of the mountains,

so they are heavily used. These mountains are full of stone and wood that

must be cut and delivered, and that means trucks: 18 wheelers with 3 rear

axles for stone and tandem trailers for logs. The locals

passed these trucks routinely, but I was content with

their pace much of the time. If a truck was really lug-

ging along, I passed or stopped for an espresso.

On a morning ride through Castelnuovo di Garfag-

nana, heading up a steep switchback on SS445, I ended

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up stopped behind an 18-wheeler confronting a descending 18-wheeler at a

spot that could not accommodate them both. The drivers got out and talked.

They examined the space. They pulled in their mirrors, but no luck. In the

meantime, a tail (coda in Italian) of vehicles grew behind both trucks. I aban-

doned my bike and made for the safety of the roadside to supervise the situ-

ation with my fellow commuters. The drivers decided, and we concurred, the

descending truck and cars would back up the hill to a wider spot about 50

meters behind. The choreography went flawlessly, and what looked like an

impossible delay turned out to be a fun lesson in vehicle maneuvering and

cooperation.

Remember SLOW-LOOK-LEAN-ROLL from your Motorcycle Safety

Foundation course? I never used it more than on the switchback curves of

these pass roads. My last encounter with

roads like these was 3 years ago in West

Virginia. Daily riding in Mercer County, NJ

made me casual about these steps, espe-

cially since I usually pursue a leisurely

pace. Here, if you make a mistake like

rolling on the throttle before you’re head-

ing where you want to go, you are in for

some excitement. My initial weakness was

ignoring SLOW. A few adrenaline rushes

and hard leans on downhill, left-hand turns

quickly cured me of that. The switchbacks

also did wonders for throttle control,

counter-balancing and keeping my eyes up.

They really were a great training course.

North of Abetone, SS12 veers off toward

Modena. SS324 stays in the Garfagnana, and leads to the Radici Pass, a fa-

vorite weekend motorcycle destination, and the beautifully situated San Pel-

legrino in Alpe, named, according to legend, for an Irish (or Scottish) pilgrim

(pellegrino in Italian) who ended his days in the wilderness here in the year

640. Today, San Pellegrino is a meeting place for all types of outdoor en-

thusiasts. Hikers (Italians call them trekkers), bicyclists, horseback riders

and, of course, motorcyclists can always be found taking some sun in the pi-

azza or snapping photos from the ridge leading up to the town.

So, after so many great roads and sights, which one stands out as most

memorable? It turns out the people are most memorable. Roberto, our hotel

owner, always took time to thank us whenever we chose to eat in his restau-

rant. When our rental car was damaged, by a kid from town, while parked in

his lot, Roberto took care of all the reports and treated us to dinner and wine.

I especially remember the owner of a roadside taverna in the middle of

nowhere around Abetone. He had a faded picture of the Twin Towers over

his cash register. When I asked, he launched into a monolog about the tears

he and his neighbors shed for America on that day.

In the end, we agree our fondest memory is the Mitico family, whom we

met through an organization (www.homefood.it) that arranges for tourists to

visit Italian families and taste foods cooked by the women of the house (le

cesarine). Antonietta, our hostess,

worked with her mother to prepare a

meal of what she called “uncontam-

inated tastes.” The pasta, wine, olive

oil, bread, and after-dinner walnut

liquor were all home-made. The

meat and vegetables were bought lo-

cally, so even though it all looked

like what they serve at the local

pizzeria, the tastes were not of this

earth. We ate outdoors (al fresco) in

a shady arbor, with 3 generations of

the family around the table with

Camille and me.

In addition to day jobs, the family

runs the Mitico Ranch (www.mitico-

ranch.it). Piero, the father, says, “he has loved and lived with the horses for

over 40 years.” Piero is truly a “horse whisperer.” His arrival at the stable

announced playtime for the horses, the dog Lupa, and assorted bunnies and

chickens. The ranch organizes horseback trekking to the same locations I vis-

ited by bike.

Although our chances of seeing these people again are small, we feel this

trip brought us to friends in the Garfagnana.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 39

Great Place forGroups or Rallies

bAckroAds fourth ANNuAl hot dog ruNsaturday August 27th • 11Am • the sprinkle shack on route 15 in sparta, NJ

Time once again for our annual Hot Dog Run!

Yes, sometimes it’s private, but this time we’d love to have you join us. How many delicious Dogs can you devour? Is this a

competition? Well, not exactly, but we will have a prize for the most downed dogs. The run starts from The Sprinkle Shack

on Route 15 in Sparta, New Jersey and will combine some seriously great roads and some equally serious hot dogs. Only the

best for you guys and gals. Portable EKG machines and Defibrillators will be on stand by. Questions? Give us a call at 973-

948-4176 or check updates on Facebook.

bAckroAds sPriNg brEAk Xivwhen: may 17-20, 2012 • where: the historic mimslyn inn – luray, vA

Join Brian & Shira and start the 2012 riding season off right with a few days

exploring the beautiful Shenandoah Valley, Blue Ridge Parkway and stun-

ning surrounding Virginia countryside.

Our host hotel is the Mimslyn Inn, which just celebrated its 80th anniversary.

It was taken over in 2005 by the Asam family, the same owners as the Bavar-

ian Inn in Shepherdstown, WV and another stop on the Backroads’ Rally cir-

cuit. It underwent a multi-million dollar renovation in 2008, which included

adding the Speakeasy, a casual restaurant in the Prohibition-era style with

live entertainment Tuesday – Friday. The Mimslyn also offers a fitness center

and Seasons Spa to take care of your aching body after your workout. It’s

the perfect base to explore places like the deep Luray Caverns, the largest in

the eastern United States or the Luray Zoo, a local favorite.

Your choice of rooms are the historic featuring a queen bed for $99/night

(total for three nights: $326.70) or a larger suite for $199/night (total for

three nights: $656.70). We may have an outdoor BBQ one night which would

be an additional $35/pp, but we’ll let you know later on that. As we always

say, rooms are limited but this time we REALLY MEAN IT – there are only 45 historic rooms and a

handful of suites so BOOK TODAY. Once they are gone, there are other hotels nearby for overflow.

In order to reserve into the Backroads Group, you must call them at 540-743-5105 and ask for that special

booking. So, you’ve finished reading this, what are you waiting for? Pick up the phone and make the

call. 2012 is right around the corner.

Page 40 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

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Gift certificates available • Course Fee is $150.00

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 41

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Page 42 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Years ago when Europeans started to populate the mountains north of New Amsterdam, which would even-

tually be called the Catskills, they believed one series of peaks belonged to the devil. They felt that this

range’s craggy cliffs were specially built by the devil so that he alone could climb them and occasionally

retreat from the world of men. Today, they are famous for the deep gaps between them, which get

lower in elevation as the mountains between them get higher when proceeding along the backroads

of this part of New York.

So with this in mind it seemed apropos that we take Ducati’s new power-cruiser the Diavel, or devil in an Italian

dialect, to enjoy a late April weekend runnin’ with these Catskill imps. We picked our way up through the north

part of New Jersey from home base at Backroads Central.

Runnin’ with the Diavel

There are a number of ways up

north from here. Some lope up

Route 209 from Port Jervis, but that

is a yawn and makes us drowsy.

Route 42 is nice, but we like to pick

up Mountain Road, at the point

where New Jersey’s Mother Road

CR 519 runs into the Empire state

and wiggle our way like this own

evil serpent towards the Shawan-

gunk ridge and then west.

This route cuts through Otisville,

the home of the big Federal Correc-

tional Institution. Here they house

KSM - Khalid Shaikh Mohammed -

a devil if there was one. The Ducati,

with its throaty 162 horses felt drawn

there. We obliged.

By early afternoon we had crossed

the Shawangunk, riding around the

long way past the famed Mohonk House and then along the Ashokan Reser-

voir into Catskill State Park.

Along Route 208 we rode deep in the belly of the Devil’s Path and then

up Route 214 making a quick pass by the Devil’s Tombstone.

Devil’s Tombstone is located in a rugged mountain pass in the Catskill

Mountains called Stony Clove. The word ‘clove’ comes from the old Dutch

work “Kloove”, which

means ‘gash or cut in the

body of mother earth’. It is

rumored that Stony Clove

was a favorite haunt of the

Devil during the early days

in settlement of the

Catskills, before he had his

Ducati. One object closely

associated with the Devil

still survives here; the

Devil’s Tombstone itself. The tombstone is a

large boulder, approximately seven feet by

five, which was probably carried down the

mountain many centuries ago by a landslide or

glacier.

Seemed like there was a lot of devil-may-care stuff to find in these moun-

tains. The oldest in the world – much like Satan himself.

We overnighted up in Hunter, New York and had a few friends join us.

The next morning we went for a little loop around the mountains and along

the way found a small, but charming church. Not ones ever to pass up the

(Continued on Page 47)

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of Port Jervis. Dine with your fellow

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 43

THE LONG AND SHORT OF IT FROM WEISETwo new gloves from WEISE, the track-specification Vortex and the short

cuff Daytona, both featuring full grain leather construction and the Knox

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With a kangaroo leather palm, twin layered with Kevlar inserts at key impact

points and integrated TPU reinforcement at the knuckles and fingers, the

Vortex road/race glove provides a feeling of all-round security. Stretch pan-

els at the base of thumb, top of the hand and fingers offer flexibility, feel and

feedback.

Its ingenious adjustable Velcro retained wrist strap has a two-way cuff system

that allows quick and easy fastening inside or outside jacket sleeves, ensuring

a snug and secure fit. Retailing for $139.99 the Vortex comes in sizes XS -

4XL black, and XS – 3XL in red, blue and white.

Joining the Vortex is the Daytona, a short-cut sports glove, tailored for rid-

ers who like the comfort and convenience of a short summer glove, but

still want the high specification of a racing glove. Featuring full grain

leather construction – twin-layered at key points – Knox SPS and integrated TPU reinforcement on the knuckles, there

are stretch panels and a Kangaroo palm to aid fit, flexibility and feel. An adjustable Velcro retained strap on the neoprene cuff offers quick and easy entry and

exit. Priced at $109.99 the Daytona is produced in sizes S - 3XL in red, blue, orange, yellow and white colourways, and in XS - 4XL in classic black.

All WEISE products are covered by a two-year warranty for complete peace of mind. For information

on the 2011 WEISE range and a list of American stockists, call Fowlers Distribution on 203-597-8686

or visit www.fowlersdistribution.com.

MACHINEARTMOTO INTRODUCE BMWX-HEAD DOHC CYLINDER GUARDS

MachineartMoto, designers of specialized products for BMW motorcycles, introduce X-Head DOHC

cylinder guards for 2010 and 2011 BMW R1200 twin cam models. X-Head DOHC are designed to

cover 80% of the face of the cylinder head to protect, not only the bottom initial impact area in a drop,

but also the upper part of the cylinder head. Even in a driveway drop, the inertia of a fall will cause a

bike to roll briefly onto the face of the cylinder before it settles down on its bottom edge. X-Heads cover

more area than OEM and other aftermarket head guards.

The X-Head DOHC design benefits from considerable materials research and the selection of a DuPont

“SuperTough” nylon selected for its blend of high impact strength, temperature and UV stabilization.

AutocomWe’re Back - Actually, we never left…The Best Motorcycle Communication System on the Market

ANY BIKE ANY SPEED GUARANTEEDTo experience why Autocom is the clear choicefor communications see one of our dealers or call

866-951-5550Country Rode MotowerksFairport, NY • 585-421-0480

Rocket MotoHollis, NH • 877-533-4245

Max BMW MotorcyclesNorth Hampton, NH • 603-964-2877

Adventure BMWChesapeake, VA • 757-523-7055

Blue Ridge PowersportsHarrisonburg, VA • 540-434-7345

Mortons BMW MotorcyclesFredericksburg, VA • 540-891-9844

Blue Moon CycleNorcross, GA • 770-477-6945

www.autocomdirect.com

NEW IMPORTER, NEW PRODUCTS, NEW DEALERS

Enjoy crystal clear audio from ALLof your favorite devices. Integration formusic, GPS, radar detector, phone,bike-to-bike including CB and more.

Page 44 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

P R O D U C T S P O T L I G H T S

The injection molded shell is designed to give slightly in impact to prevent breakage. Between it and the cylinder

head is a 7mm thick thermoplastic rubber liner that aids in dissipating impact force while preventing hard contact

with the cylinder. Each side mounts via 3 stainless steel fasteners treated with Nyloc thread locking compound

to assure a tight installation. “These cylinder guards are designed to look as well as they protect”, says Andrew

Serbinski, President of Machineart. “Appearance and function are equally considered in our development work.

X-Head DOHC look better integrated with integrated with the shape of the cylinders than anything else available.”

Price: $189.00

Machineart Industrial Design www.machineart.com designs products sold by MachineartMoto through its online

store www.machineartmoto.com, through BMW and independent dealers, and distributors outside of the USA.

SPECIAL K-PACK FROM KNOXK-Pack from Knox is the British company’s third generation back pack that, like its

predecessors, sets new standards for motorcycle backpacks, with comfort, inno-

vative design and practical features, including helmet carrier and integral water-

proof cover.

Comfort and aerodynamics are key to carrying luggage on your back on a

bike, so the K-Pack is engineered to hold the weight low over the hips, re-

ducing stress on the lower back. It sits neatly on the wearer’s back, offering

as little wind resistance as possible.

Knox have also added breathable ‘spacer’ fabric on inside of each strap,

to help improve airflow and prevent the build up of moisture.

Providing 25 litres of space, the K-Pack has a main compartment that is

accessed easily via a 180-degree zip and features a document sleeve,

mobile phone pouch and key fob.

Packed with neat ideas, the K-Pack has a mesh bottle carrier on

the outside, and removable storage pouch, which converts to

a hip bag. Zip tabs can be stuck down with Velcro when

closed, to prevent them flapping in the breeze.

When a helmet needs to be carried, place in the protective hel-

met bag provided, close using the securing chord and clip onto

the front of the K-Pack. When not required, un-clip the helmet bag and re-

place with the handy extra storage pouch; this can be used for additional

items or to carry the helmet bag ready for the next use. A visor pouch is

also included with the K-Pack, which secures inside the main compart-

ment, keeping spare visors well protected.

A fully waterproof, high visibility cover is incor-

porated in the base of the K-Pack, which secures

by press studs to the inside of the back, protect-

ing the bag and contents from the elements.

A ‘flap free’ fastening system is also incorpo-

rated in to the K-Pack’s design. This helps elim-

inate flapping and whipping of excess webbing,

yet allows a full range of strap adjustment for a snug and

secure fit.

The new K-Pack is available in black. For more informa-

tion visit www.planet-knox.com.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 45

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These days there are many offerings in the

communication field, but we constantly are

queried as to what communication system folks

should use and what we use ourselves.

With that in mind here is what we at Back-

roads have been using lately.

These days it seems everybody has Bluetooth

built into a helmet and as good as that has got-

ten, we just feel that it hasn’t hit it out of the park

as of yet.

That might change, but if you can live with a

few wires then the very best we have found is

still the tried and true Autocom System.

We have been using these for about a decade

now and have recently upgraded to their new and

improved Autocom Super Pro Automatic.

This is not an inexpensive investment- but

if you have the cash and the desire this is

certainly an option.

Both our BMW machines have

limited space to stash these systems

so we opted to use RKA’s In-Charge Communi-

cation Tank Bags.

These bags have power directly to them and make sys-

tems like this very easy indeed.

We have also brought in some other manufacturer’s products

to get what we felt we need for our communication and the amount

of miles we ride, which is substantial.

Let’s start with the basic – the Autocom Super Pro Automatic. This

unit can handle a number of toys including cell phones, GPS, iPod

and communication between rider and passenger and, very im-

portant to us, bike-to–bike. Although you can communicate using

VOX (Voice Activation)

we chose to use the PTT

Button (Push To Talk) that

way Shira doesn’t hear

my snide and sometimes

cutting commentary.

The new Autocom headsets and microphones are state of the art –

but we went a step further and had custom ear plugs created for us

by Marilyn Naviz from Now Hear This. You know this lady….

she is at all the rallies, the NY Bike Show and Americade too. We

have tried them all – she is the best – end of story. $229 well spent.

Not only do these protect our hearing from wind and road noise,

but they give us crystal clear voice, GPS instruction and music. Yes,

we do get some looks as we lube them with spit and insert them – but

that is how to do it.

On the radio end we have been using the same pro-quality Ken-

wood FS radios for years. No reason to change what ain’t broken.

These can be hard-wired into the bikes so you never have to worry

about charging the radio’s batteries; and they have an easy 1.5 mile range,

even better in some terrain.

Page 46 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

21 Dunning Rd.Middletown, NY845-344-2453

MavrixMotorsports.comhonda.com ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET EYE PROTECTION AND PROTECTIVE CLOTHING. NEVER RIDEUNDER THE INFLUENCE OF DRUGS OR ALCOHOL, AND NEVER USE THE STREET AS A RACETRACK.OBEY THE LAW AND READ THE OWNER’S MANUAL THOROUGHLY. For rider training information or tolocate a rider training course near you, call the Motorcycle Safety Foundation at 800-446-9227.Gold Wing® is a trademark of Honda Motor Co., Ltd. ©2011 American Honda Motor Co., Inc.

The 2012 Honda Gold Wing®

With more creature comforts to enhance the ride,touring just took on a whole new meaning.

Stop in to Mavrix Motorsports for a Demo Rideand see what we mean.

179 North Highland Ave/Rte 9

Ossining, NY 10562

914-762-2722

www.hudsonvalleymotorcycles.com

Join us for BIKE NIGHTThursday, July 28 • 5-9pm

All In-Stock Kawasaki Vulcans On Sale Now

Getting Clear on Communication

These days we have

dropped the need to have

our cell phones feed

through our communica-

tions systems, although

this too is easily done.

Even our favorite iPods

have been shelved since

our Zumos easily handle

the rock & roll for us.

Now the one thing you

must consider is that you

are just one rider. To make sense of it all you need somebody with equal com-

munication toys.

So, if you are a couple or a group of like-minded friends you are all going

to make a significant cash outlay.

But, as they say you get what you pay for. Let’s all say cha-ching together!

Resources:

Autocom$495 for unit$99 per headsetPlus all the other little things like PTT, and other peripheralsautocomdirect.com

RKA LuggageIn-Charge Tank Bag $325www.rka-luggage.com

Now Here thishttp://www.plugup.com/$229

GarminZumo 665 with XM Radio (monthly subsription) $799www.garmin.com

ruNNiNg with thE diAvEl (Continued from Page 43)

Kodak moment we put the Ducati Diavel into the Church’s yard and captured

the moment.

Yes, some sacrament must have been broken, but as Flip Wilson would

say….! Okay, I won’t say it.

For a long, low bike with such a devilishly big rear tire – a 240 – the Diavel

handled like a charm through the haunts of the Catskills and then back around

the high peaks of the Shawangunk on Routes 44 & 55 where we stopped for

the view and to watch other riders enjoy this wonderful Sunday afternoon.

That evening we, and the rest of the nation, got one more bit of good news

as the real devil, Osama Bin Laden, was taken out by a Navy SEAL Team.

Thank God for small miracles – the devil had nothing to do with this.

Brian Rathjen

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 47

EVERY MONTH - WEATHER PERMITTINGEvery Sunday • Eastern Suffolk ABATE Breakfast Run. Crossroads Diner - Calverton NY.10:30am. Eat and Ride After • 631-369-2221

First Sunday of the month • Layton Meet at the Layton Deli, corner of Dingmans/Be-vans Rd, CR 560, Layton, NJ. Meet around 8am – breakfast available. Join others for aride or head out on your own

Every Tuesday • The Ear - Spring St, NYC. Come meet some fellow riders and do somebenchracing or whatever. 8pm-ish

Third Tuesday • 7:30pm ABATE of the Garden State, North Jersey chapter. Black RiverBarn, 1178 Rt. 10 West, Randolph, NJ. 7:30pm. New members and all mc brands wel-come. Help fight for rights as a motorcyclist in NJ! Alex Martinez 973-390-1918

Every Wednesday • Bike Night at the Airport Pub with Free BBQ and Juke Box. CR 639,Sussex, NY • 973-702-1215

Every Wednesday thru Oct. 26: 5-9pm • Bike Night at Rusty Palmer, 105 Rusty’s Blvd,Honesdale, NY • 570-253-4507 • www.RustyPalmer.net

First Wednesday • Bergen Harley-Davidson Hump-Day MusicFest. 6-9pm. BBQ and FreeLive Music. Bergen Harley-Davidson/BMW Motorcycle, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park,NJ • 201-843-6930 • www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com

Every Thursday • Bike Night at the Chatterbox Drive-In, Rtes. 15/206, Augusta, NJ.Tire kicking, good food and friends • www.chatterboxdrivein.com

Every Friday • 6-8pm Bike Night at O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson, 4 Sullivan St, Wurtsboro,NY. Free Hot Dogs • www.otooleshd.com • 845-888-2426

Every Saturday • Stop by the dealership at 9am for coffee and bagels. Ride departs at10am. Return to the dealership for FREE food and music. Proper attire MUST be worn!No shorts or sneakers. What are you waiting for, Saddle-Up! • Bergen Harley-David-son/BMW Motorcycle, 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ • 201-843-6930 •www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com

JULY 201128-31 • United Sidecar Assoc. 33rd National Rally ‘Buckeye Rally’ in Dayton, OH. Head-quarters: Dayton Tall Timbers Resort KOA. Info: www.sidecar.com

28-31 • MountainFest, Morgantown, WV • www.mountainfest.com

31 • District II of NJ Corn Boil/Rally. Sigin: 9-11am Williams HD, 1100 US 22, Lebanaon,NJ. Endsite: Bridgewater Eagles, 350 Woodside Ln, Bridgewater, NJ. $15/pp.

AUGUST 20117 • Ride for Kids Hudson Valley • Sign in 8-9:45am; Ride leaves 10am. Central ValleyElementary School, 45 Rte. 32, Central Valley, NY. For details please visit www.ride-forkids.org • 800-253-6530

13 • Bergen County BMW Motorcycles Demo Days. Your chance to ride the bike you’vealways wanted. Insurance available on site. 10am-4pm • 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park,NJ • www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com • 201-843-6930

13 • Harley-Davidson Long Branch Open House featuring 2012 models, demo rides, freelunch, Patch Lady, live music by Gunsmoke, sidewalk sale and specials - 9a-4p. 671Broadway, Long Branch, NJ • 732-229-8518 • www.hdlongbranch.com

14 • O’Toole’s Harley-Davidson Battle of the Bands O’Toole’s-A-Palooza. For full detailsand entry information please visit website www.OtoolesHD.com • 4 Sullivan St,Wurtsboro, NY • 845-888-2426. Raindate: Aug. 20

16 • Liberty Harley-Davidson Bike Night with Free Hot Dogs, music and beer available. •12 W. Milton Ave, Rahway, NJ • 732-381-2400 • www.libertyharley.com

8-12 • Concours Owners Group National Rally. Green Mountains at Mount Snow, VT.Rally fee includes buffet dinner. Discount for COG members. For more information pleasevisit www.cog-online.org • 978-394-2591

27 • Bergen County Harley-Davidson Brain Injury Research Poker Run. Sign in 9:30-11amat BCHD. Great ride for a wonderful cause. 124 Essex St, Rochelle Park, NJ •www.bergenbmwmotorcycles.com • 201-843-6930

27 • Pigs N Poker Run to benefit Shriners Hospital for Children. Sign in 10-11:30am atRiverton Hotel and Restaurant, 7758 Martins Creek/Belvidere Hwy, Bangor, PA. Ride:Noon to 2pm with picnic to follow. $25/pp ride/picnic; $10/just picnic; $10 Quoit Tour-nament @ 4pm • More info email: lineridersmc@hotmail.com

30 • Deptford Honda Yamaha Open House. 9a-4p. 1300 Clements Bridge Rd, Deptford,NJ • 856-848-8500 • www.dhy.com

SEPTEMBER 20113-5 • Finger Lakes BMW Rally• Watkins Glen State Park. Camping, food, fun. CountryRode Motowerks sponsors track ride at International Racetrack Sat., Sept.3 @ noon •www.countryrode.com • 866-323-6530

2-5 • Vermont Rolling Rally. For details visit www.rollingthruamerica.com

2-4 • Baltimore Grand Prix with Bob’s BMW as motorcycle sponsor. Get special motorcycleonly access and trackside parking. Visit www.bobsbmw.com

4 • Dawn Patrol MC Labor Day Run. Signin: 9-Noon Bradley Gardens Firehouse, 24 OldYork Rd, Bridgewater, NJ. $15/pp.

11 • Larz Anderson Museum European MC Day, Brookline, MA •www.larzanderson.org

22-25 • Concours Owners Group Northeast Fall Rally, Lake George, NY. Come join otherConcours riders and sport-touring enthusiasts for a romp in the Adirondacks. Rally feeincludes Saturday dinner. Discount for COG members. For complete details visit the north-east event calendar at www.cog-online.org or contact Scott at 518-223-0544

26-Oct. 2 • Backroads Fall Fiesta Rally. Join us for our week-long rally through MA, NH,VT and NY. See the ad on page 64 or www.backroadsusa.com for full details.

OCTOBER 201116 • Blue Knights IX NJ Make-A-Wish Run. For details visit their website:www.bknjix.org

MAY 201217-20 • Backroads Spring Break XIV. We’ll be in Luray, Virginia for three days of fun, rid-ing and hanging out. For more details see page 64. www.backroadsusa.com

Page 48 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

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BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 49

18hAnnual!

Sunday - September 11 - 201110 AM to 4 PM

Larz Anderson Park • Brookline, Massachusetts

Sponsored by the Larz Anderson Auto MuseumAll Proceeds to Benefit the Larz Anderson Auto Museum

Bring and Show your German, Italian, British MotorcyclesClassics to Moderns

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larzanderson.org

Tyler Yandow

Some of you may have seen the Catoma display at

last summer’s BMW RA rally in Pownal, VT. This tent

was designed specifically for the motorcycling commu-

nity although the company also makes tents for back-

packing, tactical operations, and firefighters. Catoma

also offers the “Lone Rider” which is a smaller tent in-

tended for a single traveler as well as larger, motorcycle

specific models.

I opted for the 2-man tent (MSRP $287) for a couple

of reasons. First, I like to have the option of donning

all my riding gear in the tent in the event it is raining

cats and dogs. Having the extra space also allows me

to pack up all my gear, except the tent, in waterproof

bags before loading them on the bike. If you have ever

tried breaking camp in the rain you can appreciate this

small luxury.

In early June I had the opportunity to try out my re-

cent purchase on a two night camping trip with the

BMW Motorcycle Owners of Vermont, staying in a dif-

ferent location each night.

As an architect I look for products that are well de-

signed. One of the innovative features of this tent is that

the poles stay attached to the tent when stored. This

makes set up and break down at most a five minute ex-

ercise. Each of the two sets of poles has two hinges

which allow the entire tent to fold up like an umbrella.

You don’t even have to fold it. Just collapse the poles and stuff the whole

thing in the bag which comes with it. When setting up, only the waterproof

fly and its support pole need to be fastened to the tent if bad weather is ex-

pected. If the weather is warm and no precipitation is expected, the fly is

not needed. Catoma also offers a model specific ground sheet which can be

clipped to the tent and stored without being removed. This is another time

saver. The sheet is made of a durable fabric

similar to the main body of the tent. The tent’s

floor extends up the sides about 8” providing a

seamless, waterproof barrier to the elements.

With the exception of the vents, the remainder

of the tent is also waterproof and carries a life-

time warrantee. Two sides of the tent’s interior

are lined with mesh pockets for organizing and

storing smaller items. In addition, the tent

comes with a mesh gear loft which clips to the

ceiling. I found there were more pockets than

I needed during my recent maiden voyage with

it. Being able to stay organized I found to be a

real asset which the tent made easy. Another

feature I found useful is the double door design.

The tent has a full sized screen door at each

end. In addition to the roof vent this provides extraordinary ventilation, pre-

venting condensation from building up inside during the night. Unlike many

tents, the doors do not have a solid panel of the same size and shape as the

screen. Each door has a vestibule which contains a zippered center section

to allow access and prevent rain from entering when closed. Because the

vestibules leave about two inches of space between them and the ground, air

Page 50 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

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PRODUCT REVIEW CATOMA OUTDOORS 2 UP 2 MOTORCYCLE TENT

The brand new Arai XC series “redefines how

open-face helmets are supposed to look—

and protect,” according to the company.

The most telling feature is the ex-

tended coverage of the lower jaw-

cheekpad area that offers more

facial coverage without sacrific-

ing the traditional open feel of

the helmets. With the XC, the

lower jaw now extends 1 3/16

inches forward compared to

previous—and traditional—

open-face three-quarter shape

helmets. The look itself is in-

triguing. Someone at Arai has

compared the look to that of “an

ancient Greek warrior’s helmets

with the jaw extensions. Defi-

nitely cool. But like everything we

do, primarily, our objective is to

build a better helmet for riders.”

Indeed, Arai says the XC is contin-

uing proof of its longstanding emphasis

on “rider protection above all,” and its tradition of improving on what works

instead of simply changing for the sake of change or “short-lived marketing

headlines.”

There are two models in the new XC series: standard XC and XC-RAM.

The RAM’s upper-vent system is borrowed directly from the top-of-the-line

race helmet, the Corsair-V. The advantage is improved airflow and helmet

stability. It also has a fully-removable Arai Dry-Cool® liner.

The standard XC model’s ventilation utilizes Arai’s TDF-3 and DDL-

4 intake and exhaust vents taken directly from the Arai’s “ultimate

street helmet,” the RX-Q. Side cowl exhausts complete the XC’s ad-

vanced ventilation package.

A vented neck roll on both models takes advantage of existing

airflow from around the rider’s neck to further enhance helmet ven-

tilation by extracting more heat build-up from the interior.

Like all Arai helmets, the XC series is handmade in Arai’s sto-

ried environment of skilled artisans rather than the alternative of

mass production. They are available in sizes are XS through 3XL

in four solid colors: Diamond White, Aluminum Silver, Black

Frost, and Diamond Black. Suggested retail price for the XC is

$499.95, and $559.95 for the XC-RAM.

Complete information and the location of your nearest Arai retailer

can be found at www.AraiAmericas.com.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 51

is allowed to circulate even when they are completely closed. At first I wasn’t

sure this was a good idea for cool nights but I did not find it to be a problem.

In fact I appreciated the feeling of not sleeping in a “plastic bag.” I was pro-

tected from the weather but never had that stuffy feeling of my old tent. The

vestibules also allow you to keep your boots outside while at the same time

being protected from precipitation.

Unlike my older hexagonal shaped tent, the rectangular shape provides ex-

tremely efficient use of space. Although roughly the same size as my older

shelter, this tent feels bigger because there are no odd shaped corners. Even

with my Byer Tri-Lite folding cot, Thermarest, sleeping bag, and all my gear,

there was plenty of room to spare. The tent could easily accommodate two

people and most of their gear. For one person you feel like you have the hotel

to yourself. I even had room to set up my Kermit chair.

The only downside I could find is that when packed, the tent is still rela-

tively long, about 30”. Depending on the width of your panniers this may or

may not be an issue. The storage bag supplied with the tent is not waterproof

although I was told by a Catoma representative that it would keep the tent

relatively dry in all but the most extreme rain. We’ll see. The bag is a side

opening design with a roll flap closure similar to Ortlieb Dry Duffle Bags.

Because the bag is made of light weight material stuffing the tent into the

bag is not as easy as it could be. Nevertheless I didn’t feel this presented a

serious problem.

Although I’ve only used it once, I’m convinced I’ll probably never take

my old tent on another motorcycle trip. This product takes setting up and

breaking camp to a new level of convenience and really does feel like home.

Details: Sleeps 2; weight-12.5lbs; packed dimesions- 29.5” x 6” x 6”; cen-

ter height-56”; floor area- 77” x 84”. For more information please visit

www.catomaoutdoor.com.

PRODUCT SPOTLIGHT

ARAI ‘REDEFINES’ OPEN-FACE HELMET DESIGN AND FUNCTION WITH NEW 2011 XC SERIES

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web: www.circlecycle.net

201-945-2200

For over 25 yearsCircle Cycle has helped

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Our variety of powersports products is second to none. Whether you’re rid-

ing offroad, backroads, or onthe track, we’re here to get you

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In northern New Jersey there isn’ta friendlier or more knowledgeable staffthan ours. We’re happy to help you find

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give us a call or stop in - we’re always ready to help!

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Located in Arden, only 15 minutes fromPhilippi, on the beautiful Tygart Riverin West Virginia, our bed & breakfast isthe perfect place to call home whileexploring the Mountain state.

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The Charlesworth Hotelis New Jersey’s REAL backroads’ hideaway

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Home of the BEST sunset on the Jersey Shore

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Try our Full Throttle Breakfast Special every Saturday + Sunday

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Page 52 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

B A C K R O A D S ’ M O T O - I N N M E M B E R S EAT AND STAY WHERE YOU’RE WELCOME

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 53

M O T O R C Y C L E M A R K E T P L A C E ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

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We cater to road racers and support all Track Day organizationsCheck us for Suspension Setups • One-piece Road Race suits in stock

Closed Sun-Mon • Open: Tues-Thurs 9:30AM-7PM • Fri 9:30AM-6PM • Sat 9AM-3PM

Brands you Know and TrustFrom Long Island’s PremiereMotorcycle Outfitters…

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Page 54 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

B A C K R O A D S ’ M O T O - I N N M E M B E R S EAT AND STAY WHERE YOU’RE WELCOM

The Boat House

Restaurant

FEEL THE WARMTH

The Only Outdoor

Lakeside Dining on

Swartswood Lake

1040 Cty Rd 521 • Swartswood, NJ

973-300-0016

www.theboathouserestaurantonline.com

Member

Serving Lunch,

Dinner and Sunday Brunch

Tuesday ~ Sunday 11am-9pm

Brunch 10am-2pm • Closed Mondays

Excellent Ride Destination

‘50s-Style Drive-In RestaurantFull and Varied Menu

Room for the Whole Gang

Located at Ross’ Corners • 1 Route 15 • Augusta NJ • 973-300-2300

www.chatterboxdrivein.com

~~ BIKE NIGHT IS BACK EVERY THURSDAY NIGHT at ~~

THE CHATTERBOX DRIVE-INGREAT FOOD • GOOD TIMES • EXCELLENT RIDING

Ask about our Diners Club.Gift Cards available.

SERVING BREAKFAST & LUNCHTUESDAY-SUNDAY 7AM~3PM

Daily specialty items including burgers, homemade soup & pastries

Route 739 ~ just south of Milford Rd ~ Dingmans Ferry, PA

570.828.1920 • www.forkliftcafe.com

As seen in November 2010 Great All American Diner Run

130 County Route 519 • Belvidere, NJ • 908-475-4772

Red Wolfe InnPalatible Copius Victuals

(Good Eatin’ Food)

The secret of Western New Jerseyand a Culinary Delight

Open Tuesday - Friday @ 5pmSaturday and Sunday@ 4pm

Dine indoors or alfresco

Have a beautiful ridefollowed by a great meal

Tues. thru Sat. 11am-10pmSunday: Breakfast 9am-Noon

Lunch and Dinner served until 9pm

The RivertonTravel along the scenic

backroads of the Delaware river.Meet the Markopoulos family

and taste chef George’sGreek American cooking.Best bar menu, lunch or dinner.

Fresh poppers, perogies, calamari, clamsand crispy wings with 8 different sauces.

John, Christina, chef George and Eoanna welcome you and your friends.

The Riverton Hotel and RestaurantAt Belvidere-Riverton Free Bridge, Riverton, PA

610-498-4241 • www.rivertonhotel.com

Member of

The Runway Cafeat the Blairstown Airport36 Lambert Road • Blairstown, NJ

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B A C K R O A D S ’ M O T O - I N N M E M B E R S EAT AND STAY WHERE YOU’RE WELCOM

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 55

M O T O R C Y C L E M A R K E T P L A C E ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

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Riding with the Tribe

Basic Group Riding on the Backroads 101

This is a subject that has been touched on by many people and in many

riding publications, but we thought we’d look at it, not from the large parade

or large groups on the highway point of view, but of those riding groups that

enjoy the less traveled county and farm roads; the slightly more aggressive

riding groups. Some of these you might agree with, maybe some you won’t.

But, they are all worth thinking about regardless of your style of riding.

* Most groups tend to ride together often and so know some of the basic

rules, the type of riding they’ll be doing, and the skill levels of their group.

But, if you have some new riders joining your posse then it would do you

well to explain the basic rules of the ride to the newcomers.

* Always arrive at the ride’s starting place with a full tank of gas.

* Keep group rides small. Any more than 7 or 8 and it can easily get out

of hand. If you have a larger group break them into smaller squads.

* Riding is not racing. Save that for the track.

* If the lead rider makes a turn he should wait till the rider behind him is

in sight and sees the turn. That rider, in turn, should wait for the rider behind

him or her and so on. You need to keep an easy eye on the rider behind you.

* If you have a designated leader you should have a designated “Sweep.”

This Sweep Rider will always be in the back and if you have them in your

mirror then you know your group is together.

* If you get separated in a town by a stoplight or traffic, in most cases,

simply continue ahead. If a turn is made the last rider should be waiting there.

If needed, and can be done safely, pull to the side of the road to gather the

group.

* Along the backroads it might be fun to enjoy a brisk pace, but once you

are entering a town or congested area slow down. It is not only prudent, but

the polite thing to do. We are all ambassadors of our sport.

* When in town or traffic consider yourself invisible. To some car drivers

you might as well be.

* If you have a novice or tentative rider it’s okay to let one rider lead them

along at a more sedate pace, separate from the main group. You never want

to get a rider in over their heads. It never ends well.

* This thought might fly in the face of conventional group riding mentality,

but we find this to be sensible and beneficial to those riding in a group – es-

pecially a spirited group. Throw away the staggered formation mantra!

Although it looks good in parade or on the big highways, on twisty and

hilly county roads there is only one line – THE RIGHT LINE!

* Keep your distance. Space cushioning is a must, especially when you do

not know what is around the turn or beyond that rise.

*If you spot debris on the road point it out with your foot. This allows the

riders behind you to know there is something on the road ahead.

* Communication is a great thing – most hand signals are universal, but

you would want to let new riders know what they are. Radio and Bluetooth

communication is a wonderful thing and being able to converse with fellow

riders adds to the fun and safety.

* Don’t just peel away from your group. If you can’t finish the entire ride

tell your fellow riders that you plan on heading off along the way.

* It’s okay to back off. If you are in a group and you don’t feel comfortable,

for whatever reason, signal to the side and let somebody in the group know

how you feel. It’s okay to get to the end of the pack; the rider ahead of you

will wait at the next turn for you. Offer to be the Sweep Rider. Everybody

wants everybody to have a good and safe time and finish the day.

* Know your limits. If you are a new rider don’t try to go out riding with

motorcyclists that have been doing this for years. Better to find somebody

to ride with as you put on more miles and get more experienced.

* Mentoring. If you know of a rider who is just starting out mentoring is a

great thing to do. It allows the beginner to learn from your experience and

you will probably make a friend for life.

Page 56 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Welcome to the Jungle - The Art of Learning to Ride SkillfullyA column dedicated to your riding survival

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 57

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M O T O R C Y C L E M A R K E T P L A C E ALL THAT GOOD STUFF

Some time ago,

while watching Bobby

Flay’s Throwdown! se-

ries on the Food Net-

work, my interest was

piqued. Seems this par-

ticular challenge had to do

with ice cream, sundaes

specifically. Next to riding,

there’s almost nothing better in

this world. The Throwdown!

challenger was Julia Reynolds of

the Ice Cream Man in Greenwich,

NY. Greenwich, NY is a nice little

hop while up in Lake George, so

while at Americade this year I made

it a point to get to this gem in the ice

cream world.

The Ice Cream Man has

been around since the early

1980’s, originally owned by

Keith and Charlene Mann, thus

the name. The original 16x20 log

cabin was expanded in 1995 to include inside seating and a screened porch,

as well as expanding the ‘dipping’ area. In 2001, Julia took the reins and

has been making her delicious ice cream, both soft and hard, ever since.

So what can you expect when visiting the Ice Cream Man? First off,

you’ll arrive at a nice country building with a big gravel parking lot. There

are a couple of walk-up windows and some tables outside to enjoy your

creamy treat. The homemade flavors, of which there are over 300, change

regularly and you will find 30 of them listed on their daily flavor board.

Julia uses Danish Cream as the base for her delights and, for you folks who

bother yourselves with butterfat content and carbohydrates (why do you

even eat ice cream then?) the hard ice cream is 14% butterfat and 18

grams/half cup of carbs while the soft ice cream is 10% and 23 respectively.

Those seeking out the soft ice cream should only make the trip during the

summer, though.

As for the actual flavors, I’m certainly not listing all 300 but you’ll get

the idea of their creativity from these: Orange Pineapple, Chocolate Sam-

bucca, Coffee Brownie, Maple Walnut and Caramel Apple. Of course you

can always get the standards

of Vanilla, Chocolate and

Danish Cream – pure sweet

cream with no extracts. One

of their best sellers is Almond

Joy, another standard and I

can attest to it being ab-

solutely delicious.

If you find yourself arriv-

ing with an appetite for more

than just ice cream, the Ice

Cream Man will satisfy that

as well. They offer a variety

of sandwiches, also all freshly

made on home baked breads

using fresh vegetables and

meats, as well as home made

soups. You can indulge such

things as the Battenkill

Bovine Mooey Gooey which

is warm roast beef on toasted

pumpernickel with cheddar

cheese and Russian dressing

or, for those saving them-

selves for dessert, the

Farmer’s Delight made up of

lettuce, tomato, onion, cucum-

ber and bean sprouts with Ital-

ian dressing on rye bread. All

sandwiches are served with a

side of chips, macaroni, po-

tato or pasta salad.

If you happen to be cele-

brating a special event, such

as Tuesday, you might want to

do that with one of their spe-

cialty ice cream cakes. These

are three-inch, two-layers

high and ALL ICE CREAM –

no cake filler. You can make

Page 58 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

Shira’s

Summertime

Ice Cream

Ride

Stumpy’s YAMAHAYour Toy Store at the Shore

YAMA-HOTLINE • 732-776-55141207 Route 35 South • Neptune, NJ • www.stumpys.com

Specializing in Ducati, BMW,MV Agusta, Triumph and Aprilia

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Give us a call or stop on by41 Ballard Rd • Middletown, NY

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thE icE crEAm mAN

417 stAtE routE 29, grEENwich, Ny 12834

518-692-8382 • www.thE-icE-crEAm-mAN.com

up your own or choose from

their traditional favorites

such as vanilla and chocolate

with rich fudge sauce and

chocolate crumble or per-

haps the Nutty Delight fea-

turing Creamy Cashew

(vanilla ice cream dotted

with roasted cashew halves)

and Peanut Butter in My

Chocolate with fudge sauce

and chocolate crumbles and

topped with a gourmet nut

blend. Get the Epi pen ready

folks!

You can enjoy the Ice

Cream Man during the sum-

mer months, May thru Sep-

tember, everyday from 11am

to 9:30pm and Fall hours

thru mid-October are Tues-

Sun. 11am to 8:30pm. Please

call 518-692-8382 to con-

firm, as their website was

not up-to-date.

Since this great creamy

culinary delight is in such

wonderful riding territory,

we’ll give you a velvety ride

on some delectable roads

starting from Lake George.

You might not want to wait

until next Americade to get

your fill of Ice Cream Man

lusciousness. Enjoy the ride

and have a scoop for me.

you can find a route from lake george to the ice cream man:

http://www.sendspace.com/file/qige2n

and a return route: http://www.sendspace.com/file/o7q1iv

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 59

7872 Main St. / Rte. 23A, Hunter, NY • 518-263-5025 • www.fairlawninn.com

The perfect home base when riding the CatskillsEnjoy the day’s ride and return to the comforts of the Fairlawn Inn

Walk to Restaurants • Delicious Homemade Breakfast

2010 #1Inn of Distinctionin NY by NYSH&TA

Festival Season is Here at Hunter Mountain** Thrill to the Longest Canopy Zipline Tour **

Michael Abraham

Nothing provides quite the jolt to the senses or ruins one’s mood like riding

smack-dab through the middle of a mountaintop removal coal mine. After

90 miles of glorious Southwest Virginia backroads, I suspected I had taken

a wrong turn at the previous intersection of two roads that were unmarked in

all directions, and now I knew I did. It was unseasonably hot and the shade

provided by deep woods only moments earlier was gone, replaced by the

dust, filth, and destruction of the open earth mine.

My riding mates, Michael Cecchini and John Swift and I pulled up along-

side a parked coal truck and asked the driver for directions, which he gra-

ciously offered. We retraced our path, re-entered the cooler forest, and

eventually found our way into Abbs Valley and the towns of Boissevain

(rhymes with “hose-main”) and Pocahontas. These were our intermediate

destinations on our way to historic Matewan, scrunched along the West Vir-

ginia/Kentucky border.

But I’m getting ahead of myself.

The plan was for these two friends and me to ride our classic Honda 6-

cylinder CBX motorcycles to the deepest heart of Appalachia. Mike and

Swifty live in the sauna that is the Washington, DC metropolitan area. They

would trailer to my house in Southwest Virginia and from there, we’d ride

our antique bikes to the Tug Fork of the Big Sandy River town of Matewan,

of the Hatfields and McCoys and one of the pivotal battles of the modern

labor movement. Thus, Three Sixes on the Tour de Tug.

Trying to skirt as many traffic-lights as possible, I led our multi-cylinder

expedition around Bluefield to our first stop at Pocahontas. This town, a for-

merly bustling coal community with residents imported from all over the

world in its heyday, is now a crumbling, dilapidated wreck. The roof of the

former company store collapsed a few years ago and much of the downtown

area is in an advanced state of decrepitude, as if the neutron bomb hit and

nobody was left to take care of anything. There was a modern, single-story

brick bank branch with a drive-through window across from the wreckage,

conveniently equipped with a shaded park bench from where loiterers could

watch plaster fall. Another building nearby displayed an ornate, multi-faceted

façade, but with a collapsed building behind it.

Page 60 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

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ROAD TRIPtWO-and-a-tHiRd SixeS On tHe tOuR de tug

Even those with an unnatural interest for the macabre soon tire of Poca-

hontas’ cheerless karma. So we motored east into West Virginia into

Bramwell.

But, you might ask, the title of this tale is Two-and-a-third sixes. What

happened? Well, inexplicably, Mike, who owns a stable of exotic, mostly

Italian motorcycles fit for a king, was unable to get either of his two CBXs

ready for the journey. So he rode my 1989 Honda Pacific Coast instead, spoil-

ing my theme. With its V-twin engine lurking deep within shrouds of white

plastic, we were now at 2-1/3 sixes. Whatever.

In Bramwell, we drove slowly on the brick streets, where at one time 40

custom-designed mansions housed coal mine owners. One house that re-

cently sold for $375,000 would have brought easily $2-million where Mike

and Swifty live.

Not five miles later on US-52, the two-lane arterial of the southern West

Virginia coalfields, we became stuck in an interminable traffic jam. We

ducked into a nearby blissfully cool convenience store in the coal camp of

Maybeury where an androgynous, overweight cashier said a truck had jack-

knifed on the road ahead, “Traffic has sat there for over an hour already. Take

this little road beside the store and generally take every right turn you come

to. In 15 miles, you’ll be on the other side of the wreck.”

Thus began our unplanned excursion into the Deliverance-like backwoods

of McDowell County. “Mak’-dal,” as the residents call it, is the last sip of

coffee in the cup that mimics the state of West Virginia. In spite of yielding

from its ruggedly steep mountains more coal than any county in the Eastern

USA, it is by far the poorest in the nation’s third poorest state.

It was an impossibly

tight road, with some

hairpin turns sharp enough to read our own license plates. My CBX is the

late model, made in only two model years, 1981 and 1982. It is a long, grace-

ful beast with a satisfying growl in the higher rev ranges. It is a surprisingly

agile cornering machine on all but the slowest turns. Mike on the porcine Pa-

cific Coast was often right on my heels. Mike said the PC was like a Disney

character dancing hippopotamus, bulbous but agile on its feet.

Swifty’s and my CBXs were different animals, more feline. Swifty’s early

model, sans saddlebags and fairing, was tiger-like, with a lean snarl from its

six mufflers and a bad attitude. It was like the original Honda CB-750 on

steroids, with an engine too wide to be contained by mere naked bike garb.

With my 1981 version, Honda had de-tuned the engine and fixed everything

wrong on the original: better brakes, heavier forks, and a stouter swing-arm

with a mono-shock. Then they fitted it with a functional color-coordinated

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 61

BRANCHVILLEMOTORS 63 Ethan Allen Hwy

Ridgefied, CT

203.544.7901www.Branchville.com

Tues-Fri: 9am-6pm • Sat: 9am-4pm

The Metropolitan Area’sEuropean Riding Center

Headquarters forMoto Guzzi

TriumphVespa

We stock new andpre-owned vehicles

Conveniently located acrossfrom the Branchvilletrain station on the

Danbury line of Metro North

Carrying only the best in motorcycling gearand apparel for scooterists.

Visit our Ebay store for our clearance and closeout items.

ROAD TRIPtWO-and-a-tHiRd SixeS On tHe tOuR de tug

fairing and saddle-bags. It was the lion, the king of the jungle personified.

Hear me roar!

In spite of the panache and sexiness of the CBXs, they were sales floor

anchors and were soon relegated to the dust-bin of moto-history. Yet they en-

gendered awe and envy wherever we parked them.

After what seemed like a lifetime, we finally emerged downstream of the

wreck and resumed our way towards Welch, the county seat of Mak-dal. I

sat in the shade while Mike and Swifty

took photos of the yellow-stone Ro-

manesque Revival style courthouse with

bullet holes in the walls and stone stairway

where beloved Matewan Police Chief

“Smiling” Sid Hatfield died in a hail of gunfire in on August 1, 1921. More

on him momentarily. I took note of the significant foliage growing from the

eaves and gutters of nearby buildings and pondered the fecundity of Mak-

dal.

Westward again, we passed through Iaeger, whose decrepitude matches

Pocahontas’, and then over Indian Ridge into Wyoming County. The 600

feet or so of elevation gain took a smidgen of an edge off the excruciating

heat of the day, but it quickly returned on the other side.

In the vicinity of Hanover we saw remnants of a flooded creek paralleling

the road. Wherever there was sufficient flat space, there were houses lining

the highway, often across the creek. Each invariably had piles of muddy de-

bris stacked against the side of the road. Each bridge was privately owned,

with substantial damage to most. Some had missing spans, others had eroded

abutments. A musty, humid air mingled with the sweet redolence of roadside

wildflowers. In Gilbert we saw scores of dirt-bikes and ATVs, vacationers

in town to ride the Hatfield and McCoy off-road trail.

Given the advanced hour of the day, we re-set our sights on Williamson

rather than Matewan, reckoning that

Williamson, a larger community, might be

more likely to have accommodations.

Cresting a rise 20 miles from our destina-

tion, we spotted storm clouds brewing.

With trees swaying and leaves falling all around, cooler air blissfully arrived.

We rode several miles in a driving rainstorm. In Williamson, we found a hotel

that was entirely on stilts to keep it above floodwaters. We parked the mo-

torcycles by the elevator underneath, covered out of the rain. Views of the

nearby Tug Fork were blocked by a substantial flood-control earthen em-

bankment.

The next morning had all the promise of being equally miserably hot as

yesterday, so we got an early start southbound towards Matewan. Matewan

is the Jericho of West Virginia, surrounded on one side by a significant con-

crete wall built for flood control and on the other side by the hillside. Huge

Page 62 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

movable steel doors rested open alongside the three roads and two railroads

that penetrated the wall into the town. We wandered the two blocks of down-

town. A bank clerk escorted us to the back of one of the downtown buildings

where metal plugs had been shoved into bullet holes in a brick wall. We

pushed a yellow button on the wall and hidden speakers informed us about

the horrific Battle of Matewan in May, 1920. It told us that thugs hired by

the mine owners arrived in town to

evict recalcitrant union-joining

miners. Eleven people were killed

in the melee. The police chief,

“Smiling” Sid Hatfield survived,

only to be gunned down brutally –

17 bullets were found in his body

– at the courthouse in Welch fif-

teen months later. Nobody was

ever convicted of his killing. It was

a turning point in national labor re-

lations from which ramifications

still reverberate.

Five guys covered in sweat and

sawdust were refurbishing the roof

lines and gutters on an old Main

Street home. One of them said,

“Matewan is one of the most flood

prone towns in the country. We

found mud in the first floor gutter

that was left here from the flood of

‘77.” That flood destroyed every

car, most of the commercial buildings, and a third of the private homes. It

took several more devastating floods before the Army Corps of Engineers

built the wall around the town in 1997.

Mike and I walked halfway over the bridge spanning the tempestuous Tug.

It was difficult to fathom that this placid stream, perhaps 70 feet wide and 3

feet deep could wreak so much destruction on this and other neighboring

communities.

We entered a small lodge where the owner, wearing a huge red chef’s hat

told us about the history of Matewan and the nation’s most iconic feud, be-

tween the Hatfield family of West Virginia and the McCoy family of Ken-

tucky, a century-old story that still resonates with discord and conflict. He

said, “This town has recently applied for status as a National Historic Park.

With the incredible history we have here and with the Hatfield and McCoy

off-road trail, tourists are beginning to arrive in larger numbers.”

Leaving Matewan, we turned

southbound and crossed the Tug

into Kentucky where we found SR-

194. This nearly deserted, twisting

mountain road through a deep forest

was easily the equal of many of the

more famous motorcycling roads of

the Southeast. We put our geriatric

bikes through their paces, wonder-

ing how anyone could find newer

bikes more satisfying. We rode into

Virginia through Breaks Interstate

Park and into the town of Haysi,

where we called on an old friend

named Jane. “There is a lot to like

here,” she told us wistfully, “but

there is painfully little money to be

made.”

After riding fun and scenic SR-80

south to Saltville, another historic

town, I decided that Mike and

Swifty were probably tired of riding

behind me. On beautiful and twisty SR-42, they ran ahead, only to be scolded

by a state trooper for passing on a double-yellow. Kids!

Where we visited isn’t Dollywood. Nevertheless, it belongs on more

tourists’ destination lists. Mike said, “The area is pretty depressing, so it’s

kinda hard to be cheerful about it. But what I feel in my heart about the

friendly, resilient people and their strong families and communities makes

me feel good about the ride and the region.” It’s a great place to take your

motorcycle, whether antique or not.

BACKROADS • AUGUST 2011 Page 63

HudSOn ValleyRide For Kids®

SUNDAY, AUGUST 7Rain or Shine!

Location:Central Valley Elementary School,

45 Rte. 32, Central Valley, NY(Exit 16 off I-87)

Sign In: 8-9:45amInfo: 800-253-6530 • www.rideforkids.org

Mon., Sept. 26 thru Sun., Oct. 22011 Fall FiestaA Full Week of Riding Fun

The Publick HouseSturbridge, MA

508-347-3313 • Rooms: $89/nightAsk for Backroads when booking

We’ll spend our first night at the

Publick House’s Country Motor Lodge

nestled in an apple orchard

near the main inn. Enjoy a great ride

into New England on the way to our

more northern stop…

Ocean Point InnEast Boothbay, MERooms: starting at $89/night

800-552-5554Mention Backroads for a 10% discount

Perched at the tip

of a scenic, rock-

bound peninsula

in East Boothbay,

we’ll spend two

days exploring

the ‘Fingers’ of

Maine’s coast

with its historic

lighthouses, quaint villages and

all the lobsta rolls you can eat.

What would a Backroads’ Rallybe without a stop at…

The Gray Ghost InnWest Dover, VT

Single $59 • Double $98/night800-745-3615

It’s back to our old friendsCarina and Magnus and theirnever-ending hospitality. It may

only be one evening, but we’ll enjoya great meal, roasting marshmallowsaround the campfire and tall tales

on the front porch.We could end it here, but we’ll head south to Hunter Mountain and…

Colors in the CatskillsThe Hunter Inn

Rooms: starting at $110/night800-270-3992

Mention Backroads for discount

This will be the 4th year that

Colors in the Catskills will be held at

Hunter Mountain, in conjunction with

Octoberfest. Hunter Inn is within

walking distance, so we’ll enjoy a

great day’s ride then park the bikes

and join the festivities.

Monday, Sept. 26 Tues-Wed, Sept. 27-28 Thurs, Sept. 29 Fri-Sun, Sept. 30-Oct. 2

Join us for all or part, but do join us.It’s shaping up to be one of our best Rallies yet.

CALL TODAY: MIMSLYN INN, LURAY, VIRGINIA • 540-743-5105 • www.MimslynInn.com

Join us for our fourteenth Spring Break as we head south to Luray, Virginia. We’ll stay at the historicMimslyn Inn which has 80 years in hospitality and home to some of the best riding in the area.

ROOMS ARE VERY LIMITED (we mean it this time) so reserve now.Historic rooms are $99/night • Larger suites are $199/night

Please call 540-743-5105 and ask for the Backroads Group for special discount.

ALL ROADS LEAD TOBACKROADS SPRING BREAK XIV

MAY 17 - 20, 2012MIMSLYN INN, LURAY, VIRGINA

Page 64 AUGUST 2011 • BACKROADS

http://www.jmcorp.com

http://www.olympiamotosports.com