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Athens: foundAtion of the west

Historical Notes

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En In the heart of the arid Attica peninsula rise the pillars of democracy, philosophy, sports and dramatic arts which hold up the temple of western civilization. The perfec-tion of the Parthenon and the sensuality of the caryatids seem, by the whim of the Hellenic gods, to have survived the plun-der, the wars, and the centuries. The name Athens comes, specifically, from Athena, the goddess of wisdom who according to legend fought with Poseidon for control over the city. Her victory was reflected in the construction of a temple on the Acro-polis. The land which held the first Olympic Games in history, around the 8th century

B.C., and the first of the modern era, in 1896, was again the capital of the sports world in the summer of 2004. The world once more fixed its gaze on this metropo-lis, cradle of the great thinkers of antiquity such as Socrates, Plato and Aristotle, and one of the major cultural centers of Euro-pe. Discover for yourself the immutable va-lues that survive in the shadow of the Par-thenon. Athens, protected by all the gods of the world, fascinates and enchants from dawn until the setting sun, and then also, of course, under the pale light of the moon in unpretentious neighborhoods like Psiri and Gazi

foundation of the west historical notes

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A practical guide Athens is an enormous city sprinkled with hills and populated, along with the metro-politan area, by over three million people. The rapid demographic growth following World War II and the warm temperatures of its Mediterranean climate have created a city that is quite spread out. Because of that, this guide focuses on the places of greatest interest and does not seek to be an encyclopedia of the Greek capital. We have chosen the priority spots to allow you to enjoy an unforgettable getaway for a weekend or, at the most, four or five days. So in the following pages we will stop only at certain neighborhoods, monuments and museums, ignoring vi-sits that require travelling further, and we provide helpful hints to make any travel around the city more pleasant.

Athens:

The Greek capital is a city with 6,000 years of history, which is told quickly. In prehis-toric Athens, facts mix with mythology, giving rise to all kind of myths and legends. The fertile civilization of the Pelasgus, its first inhabitants, developed around 4000 B.C. Some 2,000 years before Christ, these people handed it over to the Hel-lenes, who carried the city to the triumphs of the golden age. Cecrops, founder of the city-states, as well as Erechtheus, Aegeus, Theseus and Codrus, were the most famous kings during the Mycenaean age. According to tradition, after the last of these died at the hands of the Dorians (1100 B.C.), the monarchy ended and the oligarchy began. During the years of Peisistratus’ tyranny (second half of the 6th century B.C.) moments of glory were also achieved. Commerce and craftsman-ship flourished, colonies were founded and exploitation of the silver mines of Lavrion

was begun. Likewise, promotion of the arts and letters was encouraged, the first public library in the world was inaugurated and the city was beautified with temples, buildings, fountains and forests. At that point, the journey on the path to classical perfection had already begun. Ceramics followed an opportune evolution, moving through the black-figure style (630 B.C.) to the achievements in the red-figure style (525 B.C.) Toward the middle of the 6th century B.C., Athens was acclaimed as the primary ceramic-producing center of the Mediterranean. The whirlwind of progress swept the tyrannical regime along with it. In 513 B.C., Harmodius and Aris-togiton assassinated the tyrant Hipparchus and were venerated thereafter as national heroes. Between 508 and 507 B.C., Cleis-thenes established in Athens the basis for the democratic regime and guaranteed the citizens freedom and equal rights.

In the early 5th century B.C., during the Persian invasions, the Athenians won well-deserved honors as defenders of Hellas. Under the rule of Pericles (461-429 B.C.), Athens reached the peak of its splendor. The great achievements of the Golden Century of Pericles can be seen in the immortal monuments of the Acropolis. During the 4th century B.C., following the catastrophic Peloponnesian War, Athens and democracy tried to rebuild. The city became the cradle of philosophy and rhetoric, establishing itself as the cultural center of the ancient world. In 323 B.C. two historic events occurred that were tragic for Hellenism: the death of Alexander the Great at the age of 33, and the fall of democracy in Athens. Both changed the course of history. After that, Athens began a progressive political decay, although it remained the cultural center of the ancient world until the year 529 of our era, when

an edict by Emperor Justinian put an end to the schools of philosophy and required all Athenians and Greeks to convert to Christianity within a period of three months.

From 529 until 1834, Athens remained a small city with barely a few thousand inhabitants, completely devastated during the War of Independence (1826-1827). From the middle of the second century before Christ, Athens, as did all of Greece, remained under Macedonian and Ro-man control. During this era, it preserved a privileged cultural and political position, despite holding secondary status in the Empire. The birth of Christianity marked a long period of occupation and decline, which culminated 1458 with the start of four centuries under the Turkish yoke which left an indelible trace. At the end of

the 18th century, Athens endured the sack of a great part of its classical past which fell into the hands of wealthy collectors, although generally speaking, it had been plundered for nearly two thousand years by Romans, Heruli, Goths, French crusad-ers, Almogavars, Florentines, Venetians and Turks. The establishment of Greek independence in 1830 put an end, in large part, to this disastrous phase of Athenian history. Previously, in 1821, the Greeks had rebelled against the Turks, an enterprise in which they had the support of Great Britain, France and Russia, after 1827.

At the peak

A shadow of the past

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On December 1, 1834, Athens was de-signated the capital of the country. The city so often destroyed was reborn at the hands of the best 19th century architects of Europe, who bestow on the city its cha-racteristic neoclassical aura. Mussolini de-clared war on Greece in October of 1940 and the German army entered Athens in April of 1941. Following this struggle, a civil war broke out in which the United States armed one of the sides in order to keep the communists from coming to power. In April of 1967, the coup led by Georgios Papadopoulos resulted in the installation of a Military Junta which lasted seven years. The regime fell in 1974 after a failed attempt to take Cyprus. During the 50s and 60s of last century, Athens’ appearance changed dramatically. The population doubled, as people living in the rural areas abandoned their lands to move to the capital in search of work and a bet-ter life. The need to house so many new arrivals led to the destruction of beautiful

baroundTransportation Helpful hints

Revival

neoclassical buildings, replacing them with blocks of apartments with severe geometric lines which changed the landscape of Attica. The fashion at the time among the owners of large or small villas was to demolish the villas in order to raise buildings with several floors, occupying one or several apartments themselves. In this manner, Athens became an enormous metropolis of more than three million inhabitants. Following the mistakes of those years, a revaluation process was begun in the city, restoring and renovating monuments and buildings, and creating pe-destrian streets and new parks Greece joi-ned the European Union in 1981 and four years later became the first Cultural Capital of Europe. After the successful celebration of the Olympics in 2004, the authorities are currently trying to promote a message of optimism and color, to achieve an even more beautiful city, one that is closer to the citizen and to its visitors.

Athens is in the same time zone as the rest of Eastern Europe, in other words, GMT + 2 hours (GMT + 3 after the last Sunday in March to the Saturday before the last Sunday in October), like Bulgaria, Roma-nia and Finland. It has a Mediterranean climate, with hot, dry summers and gentle winters. In January, the average tempera-ture pushes 10°C, while in July, it goes up to 27.5°C. Rain falls mainly from Novem-ber to March and it can even snow during the heaviest winters. The best time to visit the Greek capital is in the Spring, when the climate is comfortable and the prices are lower. Another good time coincides with Autumn, a season which offers pleasant temperatures, a warm and transparent sea and very bright days. In the summer time, hordes of tourists gather and the prices rise along with the mercury in the ther-mometers.

The city’s primary attractions can be visited by using a combination of the foot routes and public transportation, which was notably improved for the Olympics in 2004 and consists of networks of buses, street-cars and the metro. Most of the important monuments are located downtown. Public

transportation is cheap and very popular. Tickets are sold at the terminals and at certain kiosks (peripteral). The blue and white buses operate every day from 5:00 a.m. to 12:30 a.m. and there are night ser-vices as well, which run along the primary routes. The yellow trolleys operate in the most visited areas of the city. However, in most cases, it’s best to walk. The metro, which has been recently expanded, oper-ates from 5:30 a.m. to midnight. Line 1 runs from north to south between the suburb of Kifissia and the port of Piraeus. The metro network (www.ametro.gr) has two other lines: the number 2 line, which connects Sepolia and Dafni, with a midway stop near the Acropolis; and the number 3 line (Monastiraki-airport). In addition, there are the streetcar lines which connect the center of the city to the coast: one runs from Syntagma to Neo Faliro; another from Syntagma to Glyfada; and the third from Neo Faliro to Glyfada. There are several radio-taxi companies in Athens, such as Athina, Ermis, Hellas and Ikaros. The yel-low taxis are also allowed to stop along the street. When there are few available, it is quite common to share the vehicle – but not the fare – with other people. It is not

customary to tip, but taxi drivers to tend to keep the change if paid with a bill. The service is less expensive than in other Eu-ropean capitals, despite the fact that some taxi drivers try to cheat naive tourists. Because of this, make sure that the taxi meter works and is turned on at the very start of the run. Extra fees are charged for luggage, for a run to the airport, and for night runs. Despite the government’s ef-forts, downtown Athens still has problems with traffic and pollution. This, together with the fact that it is extremely difficult to park in downtown Athens, invites one to leave the car for another time when mov-ing around the city.

Athens is as safe as any other European city. As always, it is wise to avoid deserted areas at night and be alert for pickpockets who tend to take advantage of the care-less in the most crowded areas. It is best

to leave objects of value at home or keep them out of the reach of thieves.

Banks normally open from Monday to Thursday from 8:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. and Fridays from 8:00 a.m. to 1:30 p.m. There are numerous ATMs throughout the city and many of the hotels, restaurants and businesses accept credit cards. Shops are generally open to the public on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday from 9:00 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. and on Tuesday, Thursday and Friday from 9:00 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and from 5:00 p.m. to 6:30 p.m. The large stores and businesses located in the more tourist areas do not close their doors until later and often do not close during mid-day. Tips are not mandatory, although it is customary to leave a 10% tip at restau-rants and cafeterias if the service has been good.

Greek cooking amasses thousands of years of wisdom around the stove and its basic ingredients are in keeping with the pillars of Mediterranean culture: olive oil, olives, tomatoes, cheese, bread and wine. For the Greeks, eating is a pleasure and an important social activity, and so they spend hours and hours at the table, whether at home, or in the tavernas, or at restaurants. In addition to an excellent variety of wines, they eat dishes that have become true worldwide symbols, such as the famous Greek salad with tomato and feta cheese, or mousaka. There are infinite varieties of this last rural dish, made of layers of fried eggplant alternated with layers of potato and ground meat, covered with bechamel sauce and baked. It also incorporates Turkish influences from the years of Otto-man occupation, which are reflected above all in the heavy use of lamb among the meats. Pita, for example, reached Greece from the Near East and can be filled with sweet or savory flavors. It is worthwhile to taste appetizers such as dolmadakia (rice and ground meat with spices, served wrapped in special vine leaves), gigantes (large oven-roasted beans with tomato and

The healthy implicity of the Mediterranean recipes

bdeliciousCuisine

plenty of oregano), horta (very healthy wild vegetables dressed with plenty of lemon, oil and salt), keftedakia (small meatballs with typical Greek spices) and melit-zanosalata (a paste of roasted eggplant with minced onion, crushed garlic, parsley, vinegar and oil). The cocktail par excel-lence is ouzo, which tastes like licorice. Among the most popular dishes, one should not miss the grilled octopus served with a little lemon and dressed with oil and vinegar; and stifado, a rural rabbit stew spiced with cumin, cloves and cinnamon, to which is added little caramelized onions. Among the fish, red mullet and swordfish abound, prepared on the grill and served with lemon and olive oil. To finish off the feast, there is nothing better than farm-house yogurt, a kataifi (honey, pistachio and “angel hair jam” ), kourambiedes (a paste similar to the Christmas almond sweet “polvorón” ) or loukoumades, a type of honey-based fritter. There is nothing like Retsina, a white wine with a slight taste of pine resin, to accompany a meal; or Sa-vatiano, just right for seafood and salads. Greek coffee, given the Turkish influence, is served very strong and sweet.

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bpartyPrimary events and feasts New Year’s Day On January 1, the first day of the year. It coincides with the feast of Saint Basil, which is celebrated in the churches. It is traditional for families to organize a large meal in which they serve vasilopita, a type of pastry baked with a coin in it; whoever finds the coin in their portion is assured of twelve months of good luck; or, at least, that’s what they say.

EpiphanyOn January 6 , the Day of the Kings and, therefore, also of presents, Greeks traditionally bless the waters, ports, boats, beaches, and all elements related to the sea. In some places a cross is thrown into the water and the young people dive to recover it; the winner will have a year of good luck.

ApokriesThis is the Greek Orthodox carnival par ex-cellence and it begins 58 days before Holy Week, around the months of February and March. Often during this period, tourists may enjoy numerous open-air events such as concerts, dances, costumed parades, displays of local folklore... The Plaka neighborhood holds many of the festivities and its streets are packed with masked musicians and participants.

Clean Monday This day is the beginning of the Orthodox Lent and is celebrated by flying kites, especially from Philopappau hill.

Independence Day It is commemorated every March 25 by military parades and air shows. This is a day that celebrates the end of the Otto-man occupation and reaffirms the Greek identity.

Holy Week This is a very important period for the Orthodox religion in Greece, taking prece-dence over Christmas. In the large Good Friday processions, the faithful bring out the figure of Jesus and move through the streets amid the fervor and adoration of the people. The days usually end with fam-ily lamb-based meals and fireworks.

Labor Day This occurs on May 1.

Acropolis Rally Organized in June, it is one of the oldest events on the international racing calendar (www.acropolisrally.gr).

Hellenic FestivalHeld in the summer, from June to Septem-ber, they call to mind the performances by ancient Greeks in the theaters of Herod Atticus and Epidaurus. Currently, the best artists and dancers in the world perform under the light of the moon on these mythical stages (www.greekfestival.gr).

Lykavittos Festival From June to September, some of the best jazz and blues musicians of the day come together at the theater on Lykavittos hill.

RockwareThis festival, which is scheduled for three days at the end of June, is the main music gathering of the year in Greece, with per-formances by Greek pop and rock groups as well as international performers.

Festival of the VirginThe celebration of the Virgin’s Assumption (August 15) brings the country almost to a complete halt. Many women go to the churches.

Patriotism Day Every 28th of October, the Greeks com-memorate not falling under the fascist influence during World War II.

Athens Marathon The sporting event par excellence calls to mind the birth of the primary athletic discipline in Greece. In early November, thousands of professionals and amateurs arrive from all over the world to run the same 42-kilometer 192-meter route that Philipedes covered in 490 B.C., carrying word of the victory over the Persians; hav-ing barely managed to fulfill his mission, he died of exhaustion. The finish line is at the Panathinaiko stadium and it is worth the try (www.athensclassicmarathon.gr).

Christmas December 25 and 26th, St. Stephen’s Day, are national holidays celebrated together with family.

PlakaThe winding narrow pedestrian streets of this neighborhood located at the feet of the Acropolis are among the most enchanting and most often visited of Athens. The Ro-mantic poet, Lord Byron, was one of the outstanding figures who lived in this part of the Greek capital, heir to medieval Athens. Picturesque plazas surrounded by stairways, street vendors with shoes, disks , books and recordings, and tavernas serving typical foods follow one after the other on any route through this neighborhood, in which are found most of the monuments and the best craftwork shops. Plaka not only attracts tourists, but is also one of the favorite spots for Athenians to eat out or take a stroll, as automobile traffic is restricted.

MonastirakiPlaka’s western streets carry the visitor to this neighborhood which owes its name to the Monastiraki Square monastery and lies alongside the Agora and the Acropolis. Its Ottoman past can be seen in its streets, present still not only in the atmosphere but in the buildings, such as the Mosque of Fethiye, built by Turks at the end of the 15th century to commemorate the visit of Sultan Mehmet. The Monastiraki flea market, one of the major events in the neighborhood, is held every Sunday on the small Avisynias square and sur-rounding streets. Everything imaginable can be found here: from antique telephones to all kinds of knickknacks, to crystal liquor sets and desks made of carved wood. Just one thing: come ready to bargain.

PsiriThis lively neighborhood is located between Monastiraki and Evripidou street, an faded old industrial district which today brings together a large part of Athenian creativity, providing the avant-garde counterpoint to classical Athens. As if that weren’t enough, it has also become, almost without trying, the fashionable evening spot, a place where night owls find their place among the traditional tavernas. With all that, it’s no surprise that it is known as the Soho of Athens, a neighborhood of narrow streets flanked by large neoclassic homes and pretty byzantine churches. It is inhabited by artists, students and intellectuals who have found in this little corner a place where they can hone their talents and live as they have dreamed. The urban development transformation has continued in parallel with the social revitalization. Houses that were in ruins have been renovated and private enterprise has turned old factories and shops into theaters and appealing art galleries. Haute cuisine has also placed Psiri on a leading culinary scene and helped to throw off the burden of poverty. In spite of its recent reputation, the best of old Psiri is still here.

GaziThis is another of the livelier neighborhoods, especially at night, and the one with some of the best restaurants. In its street, trendy spots abound, like Bios, a music and theater center, and GazArte, where the fashionable have a drink. The funky Tapas and Mamacas, a hip version of the typical Greek taverna, is also worth a visit.

ThissioThis neighborhood lies south of Gazi, offering a great atmosphere and infinite number of terraces on which to spend the afternoon or dine outside on a plate of pasta or a salad. At night, it fills with fun-seekers, especially on Iraklidon street.

OmoniaLocated to the north of Psiri, it is one of the oldest and most diverse neighborhoods of the city, along with Exarcheia. It has a rich history and is considered the best place to listen to rembetika. At its edge lies the Central Market, where meat, fish and spices such as vanilla, saffron and thyme abound. 100 years ago, Omonia was one of the larg-est and most elegant squares of downtown Athens, the country’s so-called “kilometer zero”. The 1950’s and 1960’s, characterized by a disastrous urban development policy, have left their mark here. It has currently has taken the opposite path as Psiri and Gazi and over the years has lost itself to squalor. Some of its motley corners are populated by prostitutes, drug addicts and street vendors. The Olympics have changed this trend somewhat, and have helped to open art shops and a pedestrian walk, as well as to drive a plan to renovate the neoclassic facades.

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AcropolisIn Athens, the past always waits for the visitor here in this place with the name that means “high city”. This ancient walled settlement is the architectural jewel of Greece and its temples make up one of the famous skylines in the world. The Parthenon, which represents perfection in architecture, stands out among them all. It was consecrated to Athena, daughter of Zeus, the guardian who “loves people as the shepherd loves its sheep”, according to the playwright Aeschylus. This marble Doric temple contained the treasure and a colossal gold and marble statue of the goddess standing twelve meters high. Although it is one of the best preserved sites of ancient Greece, the grandeur that it shows today is far from the multicolored majesty of yesterday. The original temple was destroyed in 448 B.C. and its successor was sacked by the Goths and Persians. The insults did not stop here. In the 6th century, Christians transformed it into a Byzantine church dedicated to the Virgin of Theotokos. After 1466, the Turks converted it into a mosque and later into a magazine. During the Venetian Morosini’s century, a projectile hit the outside and in 1802 Count Elgin, British ambassador to Turkey at that time, appropri-ated a large part of the frieze which today is on exhibit at the British Museum. Despite the pillage, the Parthenon is still the symbol of an entire country and a pillar of western civilization. At the same time, however, the Acropolis is much more.

Acropolis Museum The treasures which were saved from pillaging, along with the original caryatid pieces and several kore –statues of ancient Greek divinities– are on display in this building, which replaced the old one, which ran out of room. The friezes, sculpted in marble, are on display in the same fashion in which they adorned the Parthenon, leaving spaces for the sculptures that remain in London. One can also see a fragment of the pediment be-longing to the ancient temple dedicated to Athena (520 A-D.), built before the Parthenon and later destroyed, as well as the frieze of Athena Nike, richly decorated with scenes of battles between Greeks and barbarians in the presence of the gods. A special room in the new museum, which is mostly glass, remains empty in the hope that London will return the works stolen by Elgin in 1799.

Theater of Dionysus One of the major public areas in ancient Greece is located along the eastern side of the Acropolis. Only a few foundations are preserved of this theater’s original construction, with the most visible ruins belonging to a later era. On this stage the first tragedies of Aeschylus, Euripides and Sophocles, as well as the comedies of Aristophanes, had their debut. Its stone auditorium, dating from the 4th century B.C. was able to hold 15,000 spectators and its ruins are among the most evocative of Athens.

Theater of Herodes Atticus Near the above, we find this other stage, built in the 2nd century during the Roman oc-cupation. During the Hellenic Festival, which is held in the summer, from June to Sep-tember, its stairs are packed with people and some of the best artists and dancers in the world come to perform.

AgoraAlthough the place is a jumble of monuments and ruins from different periods, during the best age of Athens, around the 5th century B.C., it was the center of political, commer-cial, religious and social life. The Athenian heart has beat from this public plaza for 1,200 years. The classical temple to Hephaestus, the best preserved in Greece, dominates this place which resonated with the speeches of Socrates, where democracy was born, and where Saint Paul preached. The courts, temples and public offices were headquartered in this area, where the most modest of Athenians - merchants and shopkeepers - rubbed elbows with officials, politicians and philosophers. The visit may be completed at the en-trance to the Agora Museum, which holds a somewhat extravagant collection of objects found in the surrounding areas. It occupies an impressive two-story structure dating from the 2nd century B.C. and was restored by the American School of Archeology in 1956. Displayed in its showcases are a small and delicate head of Athena Nike, a vessel from the year 530 B.C., fragments of etched ceramic, a terracotta water clock, and an enor-mous bronze Spartan shield, among many other pieces.

National Archeological MuseumAnyone wishing to submerge themselves in the roots of Antiquity should visit this exhibit, which features the precious gold mask of the Mycenaean king, Agamemnon, who appears in the Iliad as the leader of the Greeks; a statue of Apollo around 2,600 years old; and two bronze sculptures of the goddess Artemis. After a complete reno-vation, this world-renowned museum opened its doors once again in the summer of 2004. It occupies a 19th century building and is, without a doubt, the best museum in Greece, housing one of the most magnificent collections of classical Greek ob-jects. Some of the most fascinating pieces make up the Mycenaean collection, which includes several gold objects from the 16th to 11th centuries B.C.; and the bronze collection , such as the statue of Poseidon from 460 B.C.

Roman Forum In the 1st century, the Romans moved the Athenian Agora to this place, which was established as a commercial and administrative center until the 19TH CENTURY. Its greatest attraction was the Tower of the Winds, a giant marble octagon created by the Syrian astronomer Andronikos Kyrrestes in 50 B.C., which served at the same time as sundial, weathervane and compass. The Gate of Athena Archegetis dates from the era of Julius Caesar. Since the 1940s, archeologists have used this area as a warehouse for small and unclassified findings from all over the Attica region. Because of this, the place is sprinkled with fascinating pieces such as the wall of uneven capitals located near the Vespasianae, a rectangular building with a central patio housing 68 latrines lined up on along the four sides.

Temple of Olympian Zeus Located very near the National Gardens, it was one of the largest of Antiquity, dedicated in this case to the god of the gods: Zeus. Construction on it began in the year 515 B.C. and it was not finished until 700 years later, under the Roman emperor Hadrian. Today, 16 of the 104 original Corinthian columns are still standing, 17 me-ters tall. At the edge of the site there is another singular monument: Hadrian’s Arch. The impressive ruins make it easy to imagine the glory of the entire structure.

National GardensThis park, located hear the Syntagma Square offers a pleasant refuge in the center of the city and provides shelter to several types of peacock and a small botanical museum. Its shaded areas invite you to take a relaxed walk in full summer heat. They were created in 1839 for Queen Amalia.

Panathinaiko Stadium This elegant sports venue was built with three-tone stones in 1896 for the first Olym-pics of the modern era. Ernst Ziller’s design was based on the plans of a 4th century B.C. stadium originally located on that same land. During the 2004 Olympics, the stadium housed the fencing events and it was here that the marathon ended. It is located in the middle of the city, across from the National Gardens and near the hill of Ardettos, the slope of which is used for the staircase.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier This monument is located in front of Parliament –the old Royal Palace- and is worth visiting particularly for the ceremony in which the guards are changed on the hour. Soldiers from the Greek infantry, known as evzones, march in their dress uniforms, comprised of the traditional short skirt, white shirttails, red fez and clogs with pom-pons, the dress of the rebels who won the war of independence. The solemn chang-ing of the guard is performed every Sunday at 11:00 o’clock.

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Athens has one of the most impressive cultural heritages of Europe, which it continues to display with great enthusiasm, above all during the Hellenic Festival. In 1985, the city became the first European City of Culture, an initiative spearheaded by actress Melina Mercouri. The Ministry of Culture’s website (www.culture.gr) offers a list of the most out-standing cultural events. In the area of sports, soccer and basketball have captured the attention of Athenians.

TheaterThe two primary events are the Hellenic Festival and the Lykavittos Festival, which are held from June and September. In the former, the performances of ancient Greeks are called to mind on summer nights, in the theaters of Herodes Atticus and Epidaurus. Musical performances are also held on these stages, as well as in the open-air theater of Lykavittos. The National Theater of Greece (www.n-L.gr) combines classical and experi-mental performances.

Music Many tavernas, especially in the Plaka neighborhood, offer music and dance shows at night for the tourists. The Athens State Orchestra usually plays at the Megaron Mousikis Athenon (www.megaron.gr). This modern venue holds ballet, opera and classical music performances as well as conferences. The Greek National Opera (www.nationalopera.gr) hosts great musical performances. The Rockware festival is mandatory attendance for those who love pop and rock. To listen to the best jazz in the city, you must to go the Halfnote Jazz Club. Rock music enthusiasts prefer the informal Rodon, which offers live concerts, while the most authentic rembetika – blues sung by immigrants from Asia Minor who appeared in Greece during the twenties– can be found at Stoa Athanaton, inside the Central Market.

MoviesThe more than 100 traditional and modern movie theaters make the Greek capital a great place to enjoy the seventh art. Many of the halls close during the summer to give way to the open-air screens, such as the theaters in Paris, Psiri and Thission. Asty projects the original versions of independent films.

DanceEvery night, from May to September, the Dora Stratou Dance Theater company (www.gr-dance.org) organizes a Greek dance and music show at the open-air theater at Philopap-pau, a hill that rises across from the Acropolis. The National Ballet Company performs at the Olympia Theater.

SportsThe Acropolis Rally, which takes place in June, and the Athens Marathon, which is held in early November, are the two primary sporting events on the yearly calendar. However, the sports that gather the most fans throughout the year are soccer and basketball. Rivals in the former discipline are AEK, the Olympiakos and the Panathinaikos, while these last two multisport clubs are the primary competitors in the latter.

The office of the Greek National Tourism (GNTO), near Syntagma Square, offers all kinds of information and makes available brochures about the city. Their contact information is:

GNTO OfficeAmalias, 26210 331 0392info@gnto.grwww.gnto.gr

INFORMATION

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