2011

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at the TABLEItaly In new york

lIdIa shares her favorIte local fInds

soUthern calIfornIa fertIle GroUnd for ItalIan veGetaBles

hIstory and flavor PhIladelPhIa’s soUth 9th street Market

on the stove lIdIa’s ItalIan-aMerIcan classIcs

L idia’s itaLy in america

a t t h e T A B L E • 2 0 1 1 3

in this issue

15lidia’s Italy in americaover 20 years ago, I wrote my first cookbook. La Cucina di Lidia was a collection of recipes from my homeland—Istria—that I grew up with and still love to cook. More than a decade later, I decided to present a selection of my favorite classic and authentic Italian dishes to the american public in Lidia’s Italian Table. shortly afterward, I presented a thorough collection of over 350 Italian-american recipes, and began to educate myself and the american public on the differences between traditional Italian dishes and those we’ve grown up with here in america. the more I researched, the more I wanted to go back to the source, which is why I spent more than four years in Italy visiting every region and talking with many of the overwhelmingly dynamic artisans and chefs, presenting these recipes and stories in Lidia’s Italy and Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy.

I soon realized it was time to come back to america. a decade has passed since I presented a collection of recipes, and now I want to look at Italian-american cuisine even more in depth. for example, why is the sicilian muffaletta sandwich specific to new orleans, and how did Italian-style vegetables and wine production begin in california? why is new york’s Italian-american cuisine so special? the answers to these questions and many other fascinating stories from my journey can be found in my forthcoming book—and in the pages ahead.

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5 LIDIA’S ITALY IN NEW YORK

lidia reminisces about her favorite destinations while growing up in new york.

7 ON THE STOVE

lidia shares her favorite Italian-american recipes that have been made and enjoyed many times over in her own kitchen.

9 SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA’S ITALIAN VEGETABLE TRAIL lidia tours farms in southern california, where native Italian produce thrives.

12 HISTORY AND FLAVOR

follow lidia through the city of Brotherly love as she highlights the best Italian restaurants and shops.

15 BEYOND ITALIAN AMERICAN

lidia travels across america to explore culinary traditions honored by various immigrant communities.

17 LIDIA’S MARKET

from her kitchen and restaurants, discover exciting ways to bring lidia’s world into your home.

on the cover: spaghetti and Meatballs—find the recipe at lidiasitaly.com and the platter at qvc.com.

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I arrived in north Bergen, new Jersey, at the age of 12. nine months later, my family moved to astoria, queens, to be closer to our distant cousin louis Matticchio and his family. the Italian population in each of these areas was large, and continues to be today. More than two million descendants arrived in north Bergen alone. those from lombardy found jobs in Paterson’s silk industry, while those from tuscany headed to the Perth amboy terra cotta company. In astoria, I fondly recall spending time on Broadway and Grand as a young teenager, shopping at the Italian bakers and specialty food stores that carried Italian products.

Brooklyn was a sunday excursion, and I got to know it even better later in life when I visited with my friend and fellow restaurateur angelo vivolo. angelo walked me through areas like Bensonhurst, 18th avenue, avenue U, and more.

and we can’t forget those trips to Manhattan. little Italy was and still is a place dear to my heart. the Bronx’s arthur avenue, an area that became home to many Italian stonemasons and laborers, was also a frequent destination for me and my family. I still enjoy going there for hand-pulled mozzarella, Italian sausages, and freshly caught fish.

lidia’s Italy in new york:The Italian way of life--customs, flavors, ingenuity, business savvy, and a tenacious will to survive--has left its mark on America. The Italian way is an integral

part of America today. I am one of those weavers, for I was blessed to be born Italian, and then I was blessed again when I was adopted by America. Now, I am connecting and weaving the two cultures together with the food that I cook and share with you.

—lidia Bastianich

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tour new york with lidia This February, Lidia Bastianich, one of the most iconic figures in the culinary world, will open her arms and welcome a select group of guests to her hometown with a Lidia’s Italy in America New York City experience. The four-day, three-night all-inclusive experience will be like no other of its kind, offering a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to enjoy the company of the master chef herself.

VIP guests will enjoy a private and intimate gala dinner with Lidia at one of her famed restaurants, a private guided tour of Lidia’s Eataly market, a morning excursion to legendary Arthur Avenue, a performance of the hit Broadway show Jersey Boys, multiple cooking lessons and cooking demos from Lidia’s master chefs at some of New York City’s top restaurants, and so much more—all while enjoying deluxe accommodations in the heart of New York City.

To learn more about how you can be part of Lidia’s Italy in America New York City experience, call 877.599.1765 toll-free or email info@elitexp.com.

Casa della Mozzarella 604 East 187th Street 718.364.3867

A traditional Italian deli with what many believe to be the best fresh mozzarella available in the United States. Not a surprise, given the name!

Calabria Pork Store 2338 Arthur Avenue 718.367.5145

Cured and crafted, netted and brined—dried pork hangs from the ceilings of this Arthur Avenue institution. In addition to having countless varieties of sausages and salamis from all parts of Italy, it’s also a full-service deli.

Roberto Restaurant 603 Crescent Avenue 718.733.9503

Come here to feel like you’re having dinner with a large Italian family—but without the drama. You will be served family style from huge platters of the best Italian-American home cooking in a rustic, inviting setting. You’ll walk away from this experience very full and happy.

ARTHUR AVENUE DESTINATIONS

Addeo Bakers 2372 Hughes Avenue 718.367.8316

Now into the third generation of family bakers, this Italian bakery stands out for its breads. Whether it’s seasonal, special occasion, or everyday eating breads, you can find it here in crusty, fluffy, fragrant, and crunchy varieties of all sorts.

Randazzo’s Fish Market 2327 Arthur Avenue 718.367.4139

Lidia’s go-to fish market—a great selection of fish, and the best quality. Inside the store smells like the sea, which means you’ll be getting the freshest product possible.

Biancardi Meats 2350 Arthur Avenue 718.733.4058

A throwback butcher shop with personal service, high-quality meats, and great prices, Biancardi’s devotes itself to southern Italian specialties, such as house-cured pancetta and tripe. You’ll also find trimmed cuts of lamb, veal, and rabbit.

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16 links sweet Italian sausage, with or without fennel seeds

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, or as needed

8 garlic cloves, peeled

1 pound white, shiitake, or crimini mushrooms (or a mix of two or three of them)

3 large yellow onions, cut into 1-inch wedges (about 5 cups)

6 pickled cherry peppers, stemmed and seeded but left whole

2 each medium yellow and red bell peppers, cored, seeded, and cut into 1-inch strips (about 6 cups)

3 cups grated fontina cheese

5 cups grated cheddar cheese

4 cups whole milk

1 (3- to 4-inch) piece day-old Italian bread

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus more for the baking dish

2 cups grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano reggiano

4 large fresh sage leaves

1 pound pipette pasta or other small curved noodle

saUsaGe and PePPers SALSICCIA CoN PePeroNIserves 8 (can be reduced by half to serve 4)

Mac and cheese mACCHeroNI AI formAggIoserves 6 to 8

Poke the sausages all over with a fork. divide olive oil between two large heavy skillets and heat over medium heat. divide the sausages between the skillets and cook, turning occasionally, until the sausages are well browned on all sides, about 8 minutes. about halfway through browning the sausages, whack the garlic cloves with the flat side of a knife and divide evenly into each skillet. transfer the browned sausages and garlic to a 13 x 9-inch baking dish, leaving the fat behind.

while the sausages are browning, prepare the mushrooms. trim stems from the shiitakes, if using. trim stems from the white and crimini mushrooms if you like. cut in half any mushrooms with caps larger than 2 inches; leave smaller mushrooms whole.

Preheat oven to 400°f. scatter the onions and cherry peppers over the fat in one of the skillets, and the

Preheat oven to 400°f. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil for pasta. In a large bowl, combine fontina and cheddar. Pour milk over the cheese and let sit for 30 minutes to an hour, until the cheese begins to break down and dissolve into the milk.

Grate bread on the coarse holes of a box grater to get about 1 1/2 cups coarse crumbs. In a small skillet over medium heat, melt the butter then add breadcrumbs. stir and toss the crumbs until crisp and toasted, about 3 minutes. scrape crumbs into a bowl and let cool. Butter a large baking dish and coat the bottom and sides with a thin layer of some of the crumbs. stir 1 cup of the grated Grana or Parmigiano into remaining crumbs.

despite the seemingly Italian heritage of this dish, peppers are a new world food and were introduced to Italy only after the discovery of the americas. Italian immigrants quickly adopted peppers into Italian-american cuisine, and this dish is now a staple at every Italian street fair—whether in new york, chicago, st. louis, or san francisco.

you may be surprised to see that no stock or wine is in this dish. I prefer to let the sausages and vegetables simmer in their own juices. the flavors blend and mellow a little but still stay intense. the key to making really wonderful sausage and peppers is to caramelize each ingredient separately, then pile them into a baking dish and finish them in the oven.

Macaroni and cheese is a quintessential american comfort food. to most, it brings back warm and fuzzy memories of the childhood family table. even thomas Jefferson had a thing or two to say about this dish: he ordered a macaroni-making machine and instructed the cook to use cheese liberally on the pasta and bake it like a casserole. It appears this “macaroni” was more similar to the spaghetti of today. I can’t help but think that the roots of this dish are Italian. so, as many recipes for macaroni and cheese you might have eaten include some form of roux, cooked flour, and milk, here I give you a dish as an Italian in Italy would make it. this is a simply delicious rendition.

mushrooms over the fat in the other. cook onions, stirring often, until browned and wilted but still quite crunchy, about 8 minutes. cook mushrooms until they have absorbed the fat in the skillet and have begun to brown, about 6 minutes.

slide the mushrooms into the baking dish. spoon onions into the baking dish, leaving behind some of the fat in the skillet. (If there is not enough fat left to coat the bottom of the skillet, pour in enough olive oil to do so.) add the peppers to the skillet and cook, tossing frequently, just until wilted but still quite crunchy, about 6 minutes. slide the peppers into the baking dish, toss all the ingredients together well, and place in the oven.

Bake uncovered, tossing occasionally, until the vegetables are tender but still firm and no trace of pink remains in the sausages, about 25 minutes. serve hot.

Pour cheese and milk into a pot and add the sage leaves. whisk over medium-low heat until cheese melts, about 7 to 8 minutes. stir in remaining 1 cup grated Grana or Parmigiano. Meanwhile, add pipette pasta to boiling water. cook until very al dente (firm when bitten into, about 3 to 4 minutes shy of package cooking time) and drain. return pasta to pot. add cheese sauce and stir until all of the pasta is coated with the sauce. scrape pasta into prepared baking dish and sprinkle with the breadcrumbs. Bake until browned and bubbly, about 20 minutes.

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due to their similar climates, one could call southern california a second Italy. Missing the products of their home country, Italian immigrants transported its seeds and their knowledge to their new home in southern california. they developed what would become one of the largest agricultural communities to grow such Italian produce as artichokes, purple asparagus, and red radicchio.

lidia visited everywhere from san clemente to Modesto, where she learned all about the Italian-american families who cultivated the farms that give this part of southern california its reputation.

FUN FACT did you know that artichokes are some of the oldest known foods? the Greek philosopher and

naturalist theophrastus wrote of them being grown in sicily in 300 B.c.e. In the 1920s, it was Italians who turned most of the cornfields on california’s central coast into a garden of artichokes. as a result, today castroville is known as the “artichoke capital of the world.” every May, the castroville artichoke festival takes over the town. visitors are offered field tours and are able to taste artichokes cooked in every way imaginable. there’s an antique car show; a show of agro art, three-dimensional artworks made of produce; and a run and a walk through the artichoke fields. It comes as no surprise that california accounts for 99.9 percent of the artichokes grown in the United states!

southern california’s Italian vegetable trail

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lidia with the beautiful artichokes of castroville’s

Pezzini farms.

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In the garlic fields at san Martin’s lJB farms. Brent and russ Bonino of lJB farms.

vibrant royal rose radicchio.

wading in the fields of broccoli rabe at andy Boy farms.

standing with Margaret d’arrigo at andy Boy farms.lidia picking a blooming artichoke at Pezzini farms.

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3 cups packed fresh basil leaves

2 cups packed fresh parsley leaves

1 cup toasted unsalted pistachios

8 cloves garlic, peeled

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound spaghetti

1/2 cup grated Grana Padano or Parmigiano reggiano

sPaGhettI wIth BasIl PIstachIo PestoSpaghetti al Pesto di Basilico e Pistacchi from Lidia’s Italy in America

Makes 3 cups pesto

1. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil for pasta. In a food processor, add basil, parsley, pistachios, garlic, and salt. turn on processor and add 1 1/2 cups of the olive oil in a slow, steady stream. Process to make a smooth paste, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl occasionally.

2. add spaghetti to the boiling water and cook until al dente. scrape half of the pesto into a large skillet over low heat and add 1 cup pasta water. Use a spider to drain pasta and transfer to the skillet. drizzle with remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil and toss to coat the pasta with the pesto. off heat, toss with the grated cheese.

note: this recipe makes twice the amount of pesto you will need for 1 pound of pasta. you can freeze half of the pesto for future use: just pack in a plastic container with a thin film of olive oil. thaw in refrigerator before using. you can also cut the recipe in half if you want just enough for 1 pound of pasta.

everybody by now is familiar with pesto made with basil and pignoli nuts, but during one of my visits to sicily I enjoyed a pleasant pesto surprise, where the pignoli were replaced by pistachio nuts. Pistachios are common in the United states, so do try this rendition of basil pesto. toasting any nuts before use brings out the oils and flavors of the nut.

although sicily is known for its delicious pistachio nuts, 98 percent of pistachios eaten here come from california.

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history and flavor in PhiladelphiaItalians have been part of the life of Philadelphia since colonial times. they were part of one of the earliest waves of immigration to Philadelphia and in the mid-18th century consisted mainly of intellectuals, artists, and entrepreneurs. In the late 19th century, many wealthy Italians left Italy for political reasons and came to Philadelphia, followed by blue-collar workers looking for opportunity.

the 9th street Italian Market was and still is a bustling place. home to hardworking immigrants, this market represented the very essence of Italian culture in Philadelphia. today, the market is shared with immigrants from other countries but remains a great place to pick up artisanal Italian imports. some of the best-known shops include the meat market d’angelo Brothers, claudio specialty foods, sarcone’s Bakery, and di Bruno Brothers.

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lou sarcone sr., who runs sarcone’s Bakery.

ralph’s Italian restaurant.

fred landis at claudio specialty foods on 9th street.

lidia at d’angelo Brothers. Claudio Specialty Foods924-26 south 9th street 215.627.1873 claudiofood.com

D’Angelo Brothers909 south 9th street215.923.5637dangelobros.com

9TH STREET DESTINATIONS FOR YOUR OWN PHILADELPHIA ROAD TRIP

Ralph’s Italian Restaurant760 south 9th street 215.627.6011 ralphsrestaurant.com

Sarcone’s Bakery 758 south 9th street215.922.0445

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“Catena Zapata is the Argentina winery of reference,the standard of excellence for comparing all others...”

MENDOZA - ARGENTINA

Wine Spectator

s ince 1902THE CATENA FAMILY

Robert Parker Jr. - Parker’s Wine Buyer’s Guide - 2008

Imported to the US by Winebow Inc., New York, NY - www.winebow.com

5 YEARS IN A ROW, CATENA AND CATENA ALTA MALBEC - www.catenawines.com

MALBEC PIONEER

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a t t h e T A B L E • 2 0 1 1 15

Lidia Celebrates America

food and culture Beyond Italian americanMost cultures celebrate some holiday toward the end of november and december. this past year, lidia had the opportunity to travel from new york to san francisco while shooting a documentary that took a look at deep-rooted culinary traditions focused on christmas eve, christmas day, new year’s, and Passover.

ITALIAN AMERICANS, queens, new york—we anchor this special with a personal look at christmas eve through the eyes of lidia and her extended family. Joining her are family friends and actors stanley tucci and Mo rocca. Mo and lidia take a trip back in time as they visit arthur avenue, the Bronx’s historic market street that is ripe with stories. and back at home, stanley’s and lidia’s extended families sing, cook, and reminisce while enjoying the traditional Italian christmas eve feast of the seven fishes.

MExICAN AMERICANS, san antonio, texas—Mexican americans make up more than 10 percent of the United states’ population, and many of them are concentrated in texas. In Mexico, christmas is symbolized by the strong presence of a nativity scene, often acted out across the homeland. we join four generations of the cortez family in san antonio to celebrate their christmas day traditions.

CHINESE AMERICANS, san francisco, california—the chinese new year is the most important of the traditional chinese holidays. what better place to celebrate this holiday than in san francisco, where the chinese new year is the largest celebration of its kind outside of asia? we spend the day with foodie shirley fong-torres, who tours us around san francisco’s chinatown. then we join shirley’s brother Ben fong-torres, of rolling Stone magazine fame, at the chinese new year Parade.

JEWISH AMERICANS, new york city—along with author ruth reichl, we celebrate Passover in one of Manhattan’s most traditional Jewish neighborhoods. lidia learns how to make matzos while talking through culture and cooking with ruth in an intimate Passover setting at the family of Mark russ, third-generation owner of the Jewish specialty store russ and daughters.

Lidia Celebrates America airs on Tuesday, December 20, 2011, at 8:00 p.m. on PBS.

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a t t h e T A B L E • 2 0 1 1 17

lIdIa’s Market

Lidia’s Italy in America

lidia invites us on a road trip into the heart of Italian-american cooking today. traveling around the United states, lidia visits Italian-american communities that have created something new out of the recipes passed down from their ancestors. lidia shows us how this cuisine is an original american creation that redefines what we know as Italian food while paying tribute to Italy, and she gives recognition to the many industrious Italians who have honored the traditions of their homeland in a delicious new style.

Lidia’s Sauces

lidia strongly believes that in order to get the best final product, you should use the freshest highest-quality ingredients. her sauces include sweet tomatoes, plenty of fresh basil, and extra-virgin olive oil. she still tastes every new batch produced and believes that these sauces are truly unprecedented. varieties include Marinara, tomato Basil, tuscan arrabbiata, vodka, Garden style, chunky eggplant, and artichoke Marinara.

Lidia’s Pasta

lidia’s pasta is made from only the best Italian wheat—milled and formed into rich dough, then cut with bronze dies and allowed to dry very slowly. this intensive process allows the pasta to absorb the sauce, making every bite burst with flavor. varieties include capellini, spaghetti, fettuccine, linguine, Penne rigate, fusilli, rigatoni, and farfalle.

Lidia’s Kitchen on QVC

the shapes designed by lidia—in collaboration with her daughter, tanya—are her own favorites and allow for easy family-style serving. these pieces include a wonderful large shallow serving bowl, matching smaller bowls, oval platters, and a rectangular tray that provides the perfect plate to display sweet treats. another favorite is a set of bakers in small, medium, and large—ideal for baked pastas, meats, or vegetables.

EATALY

eataly is an energetic marketplace, an opportunity to taste and take home the products of artisans who till, knead, and press to bring you the highest-quality products. eataly is the heartbeat of Italy in new york. our bread is made with new york flour, our gelato is whipped up with local dairy, and our meat, produce, and fish are almost always american. Grazie, america!

eatalyny.com

for more information and to purchase lidia’s products, visit lidiasitaly.com

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restaUrant locatIons

Publisher Michael GoldMan

editor-in-chief PaMela Jouan

design director Jana Potashnik BaiRdesign, inc.

Managing editor chRistian kaPPneR

contributing editors Jaclyn Bloch PaMela Jouan

copy editor kelly suzan waGGoneR

advertising advertising@hautelifepress.com

Marketing director katheRine Payne

Photography lidia Bastianich

saBRa kRock

ted axelRod axelrodphotography.com

cover Photo and Mac & cheese chRistoPheR hiRsheiMeR thecanalhouse.com

lidia head shot diana delucia

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hautelife Press makes every effort to ensure that the information it publishes is correct but cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions.

© 2011 all rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.

Felidia 243 east 58th street new york, ny 10022

tel. 212.758.1479 felidia-nyc.com

lidiasitaly.com blog.lidiasitaly.com

Lidia’s Pittsburgh 1400 smallman street Pittsburgh, Pa 15222

tel. 412.552.0150 lidias-pittsburgh.com

Lidia’s Kansas City 101 west 22nd street kansas city, Mo 64108

tel. 816.221.3722 lidias-kc.com

Del Posto 85 tenth avenue new york, ny 10011

tel. 212.497.8090 delpostonyc.com

Becco 355 west 46th street new york, ny 10036

tel. 212.397.7597 becco-nyc.com

Esca 402 west 43rd street new york, ny 10036

tel. 212.564.7272 esca-nyc.com

Eataly 200 fifth avenue new york, ny 10010

tel. 646.398.5100 eatalyny.com

LebLon

Cachaça is unique to Brazil, as it can only be made there. Like France’s Cognac or Champagne and Mexico’s tequila, cachaça has qualities that separate it from any other spirit. Cachaça is made from fresh-pressed sugarcane juice, which is then fermented and distilled. Distillation can be accomplished using two accepted methods: industrial column stills or artisanal alembique copper pot stills. The latter method represents the minority of the yearly production, but it can result in complex, interesting, and wonderful spirits.

Leblon, an artisanal cachaça, is made at Maison Leblon in Brazil’s state of Minas Gerais. The distillery’s mission is to show the world that cachaça can be a noble spirit. The result is a lively pure nose and a full-bodied liquor that exhibits a floral bouquet with light herbal and grassy notes and tastes of sweet sugarcane, crème brûlée, spicy vanilla, and white pepper. The spirit warms in the mouth and leaves a gentle sweetness in the middle of the tongue that flowers as it lasts, much like a refined tequila.

HauteNoTes

HauteCoCkTaiLHauteTasTe

CoRteZ MuLLet CoMPanY aMeRICan GoLD bottaRGa

Cortez Mullet Company is the only outlet producing american Gold Bottarga in the United states. Founder seth Cripe does it all from start to finish: fishing sustainably, using hand-thrown cast nets, leaning the mullet, cutting out the golden roe, and curing the roe with kosher sea salt. When freshly grated, this golden bottarga adds a wonderful complexity to dishes with fresh seafood flavor and balanced salinity. Fishing according to the seasons and using sustainable methods, the Cortez Mullet Company is committed to supporting fishing that ensures the ecological health of our oceans and their marine life. it’s no surprise that top american chefs like Thomas keller, Daniel Boulud, andrew Carmellini, and Michael White now consider Cortez Gold the finest bottarga on the planet.

RubY DIaMonD CaIPIRInHa

6 mint leaves1 tablespoon pomegranateseeds2 oz Leblon cachaça2 oz lychee puree1/2 oz lime juiceDash of simple syrup

Muddle mint and pomegranate seeds in a shaker. shake with remaining ingredients. strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with pomegranate seeds.

From the publisher, HauteNotes is about the discovery of all things innovative and

exciting in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel. Visit hautenotes.com.

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