ASSEMBLYMANUAL

WELCOME TO THEHOBIE WAY OF LIFE

Congratulations on the purchase of your new HOBIE Getaway and welcome to the HOBIE® sailing family. The HOBIEGetaway cannot be outgrown. It can be sailed by children up through senior citizens. A single adult can sail it at top

performance - and a crew of four can cruise in comfort.

We offer this manual as a guide to increased safety and enjoyment of your new boat. The purpose of this publication is toprovide easy, simple and accurate instructions on how to get your Getaway ready for the water. Please read them carefully

and familiarize yourself with the boat and all of the parts spread before you.

Whether you are a new sailor or a veteran of many years, we recommend that you read this thoroughly before your first sailand TRY IT OUR WAY FIRST! If you are new to sailing, this manual alone is not intended to teach you how to sail. There aremany excellent books, videos and courses on the safe handling of small sailboats. We suggest that you contact your local

sailboat dealer, college or Coast Guard Auxiliary for recommendations.

Watch for overhead wires whenever you are rigging, launching, sailing or trailering with the mast up. CONTACT OF THEMAST WITH POWER LINES COULD BE FATAL! Be certain that the rigging area and the area that you will be sailing in are

free of overhead power lines. Report any such power lines to your local power authority and sail elsewhere.

We take pride in presenting the Getaway to you and hope that you'll take as much pride in owning her.

Fair winds and good sailing!

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This assembly manual takes you step-by-step through the setting-up andsailing of your new HOBIE Getaway.

This manual will help you understandeach part in detail.

Setting up your Getaway PAGE

Getaway terminology............................2List of parts...........................................3Knots to use .........................................4The hulls...............................................4Crossbars & Trampolines..................4-7Mast assembly ..................................8-9Mast Wires ...........................................9Stepping the mast ...........................9-10Main Sail and Battens ...................10-11Raising the main sail ..........................11Downhaul and adjustment ..................11Mainsheet...........................................12Rigging the jib sail ..............................12Rudder assembly ...............................13Tiller cross bar and Extension ............13Righting line........................................13

Sailing your Getaway .................PAGEBalancing the boat ...................................14Steering ....................................................14Sail power.................................................14Turning......................................................15Launching.................................................15Righting the boat......................................15Docking and landing ................................16Rudder tuning...........................................16Trailering...................................................17Safety tips ..................................Back page

GETAWAY ASSEMBLY MANUAL

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Getaway Terminology

MAST

DOWNHAUL

RUDDER CASTINGS

TILLER ARM

SHROUD

HULL

BRIDLE

FORESTAY

SAIL CLEW

MAIN SHEET SYSTEM

RUDDER

SAIL

BATTENS

F O R E S T A Y / B R I D L EADJUSTER

MAST FLOAT

SMALL PARTS

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LARGE PARTSYou should have:

(2) Hulls with hardware

➀ (1) Mast float

➁ (1) Box of small parts

➂ (1) Sail, battens and sail bag

➃ (1) Forestay assembly with jib, bag

➄ (1) Tiller cross bar, Tramp rods

➅ (1) Front cross bar (Spreader)

➆ (1) Rear cross bar

➇ (1) Main cross bar (Mid)with Trampoline

➈ (2) Rudder assemblies

NOT SHOWN:(1) Upper mast section(1) Lower mast section(2) Trampoline lace rods

Check the boat and parts carefully to be sure that all of the parts arepresent and that the boat is in good order.

LIST OF PARTS

Mainsheet systemDownhaul lineRighting lineShroud wiresMain halyard lineTrampoline lace lines

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2

3

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6

7

8

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THE HULLSLay the hulls on the ground, on their sides with bottoms to thecenter (graphics down), as shown above. A tarpoline or padsunder the hull may be desirable if the ground surface is rough.Place the hulls about seven feet apart.

CROSSBARS ANDTRAMPOLINESThe forward and maintrampolines are rolledonto the front crossbar.Posit ion the crossbarbetween the hulls nearthe forward cross barsleeve in each hull.

The Bow Spreader Barhas slides, eye straps,bridle wires (2) and theroller furler installed.Posit ion it near therecesses on each bow.

Remove the bolt that isthreaded into theplastic block on eachend of the BowSpreader Pole.

ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

KNOTS TO USE

FIGURE 8 KNOT BOWLINE KNOT HALYARD KNOT CLEATING OFF A LINE

1. 2.

FIGURE 8 KNOTAT END OF LINE

Main Beam with Trampoline

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The rear crossbar has the main sheet traveler car and swivelcam cleat installed. Position it near the aft crossbar sleeve ineach hull.

Note: There is one plug in the rear of each hull. These plugsare used to drain the hulls. The plugs should be in placebefore sailing. Remove the plugs after sailing to drain anywater that may have leaked into the hulls. It is best to travelwith and store the boat with the plugs removed to allow forpressure changes due to heating, cooling and altitudechanges. This will prevent warping of the hull surface.

Slide the other hull ontothe crossbars until thehulls come in contactwith the stop plates(located on theunderside of the mainand aft crossbars).

Lifting one hull, or theother, at the rear canhelp align the socketfor the forwardspreader bar.

Using a cross bar as a lever arm, pull the hull to an uprightposition so that the crossbars are horizontal.

Insert the crossbars into one hull. Seethat the crossbars seat fully into theirsockets in the hull.

Unroll the trampolines from the forward crossbar. Slide themain trampoline bolt ropes into the hull trampoline tracks.Soapy water can be used as a lubricant (Do not use an oil orsilicon lubricant on the trampoline track or the bolt rope).Sliding the bolt rope into the track is a 2 person job. Oneperson should pull the trampoline and the other feed the boltrope into the track.

Be sure thef o r w a r dspreader is fullyseated in bothhulls.

Re-Install the screwsinto each end formthe outside of thehull. Do not overtighten or compressthe plastic hullmaterial.

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Carefully feed thetrampoline into the tracks.

Continue to feed thetrampoline equally on bothsides.

As the trampoline becomes moredifficult to feed, Alternate from oneside to the other keeping thetrampoline somewhat even. You cansit or lay on the trampoline to stretchit a bit.

Work your way across thetrampoline to the otherside, then tie off with halfhitches.

Pass the l ine through thegrommet in the trampoline.

Pass the line back through theeyelet, then over to the firstslide. Pass the line to the firstcutout and around the rod.Then back to the first slide.

Continue to each slide andcutout across the tramp.Come back to the startingpoint and begin tighteningthe lace line to pull thetrampoline tight.

After both main trampoline halves are in place, but not laced,install the forward trampoline following the same technique aswith the main. Except, because the forward trampoline is one

piece, it is necessary toalternate from side to sidewhile feeding it into thetracks.

Once the forwardtrampoline isnearly all the wayinto the track itmay benecessary to usethe BowSpreader Pole for

leverage to pull it taught. Tie a lace line to the grommet. Wrapthe line around the beam and then pass it back through thegrommet again. This will create a 3:1 purchase to help pull thetrampoline forward. Once again, alternate from side to side tokeep the trampoline even. Carefully feed at the opposite endto prevent the trampoline from getting wedged in the trackopening. Pull the trampoline all the way tight.

LACE FORWARD TRAMPOLINE - Slidethe longer (of the two provided) lace rodinto the forward trampolines pocket. Tie

the laceline to theeyelet.

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LACE MAIN TRAMPOLINE - Tie a bowline knot to the forwardleft/port grommet in thetrampoline.

Pass the l ine through theopposite grommet, top/downand then through the lacingflap.

Come up through the next(left) grommet and thencontinue to lace towardsthe aft of the trampolinefollowing this pattern(down through the rightgrommets and up throughthe left grommets). Keep

the laces loose at this time. Lace as far aft as the line will go.

Locate the aft lace rod. Feedthe rod through the rear pocketas shown. Center the rod, fromleft to right, in the pocket.

Locate the aft lace lines. Tieto the rear grommets using along looped bowline as shown(left and right sides).

Let the tramp hang below the aftcrossbar. Pull the lace lines underthe cross bar and tight. Begin theaft lacing by routing the left line up

and over the first lace peg.Cross over to the next pegthen down and around therod. Pull the lace line tightthen up and over the pegand then over to the nextone and so on... Thenstart with the right sideand work towards the

center.Image to left shows the properrouting of the lace lines aroundrod and peg.

When you reach the center,the pattern must be changedslightly. Pass up and over thelast peg, before the center, and then down around the rod inthe gap between tramp halfs. Then, come up and through the

trampoline grommet on theopposite side. Once tied offloosely at the center, cinch theline tight from each side workingtowards the center.

Tie off to the maintrampoline grommets justforward of the aft crossbar.

Once the aft lace is tight, begincinching the center lace tightfrom forward to aft. You willnotice that as you get thetrampoline tight you will havemore lace line aft to complete thelacing.

Work your way aft until the entire trampoline istight. Tie off the line with a few half hitches.

Tuck the lace flap into theopposite side lace line. Theflap will help keep you drierwhile sailing and keep linesfrom slipping into the waterbetween the laces.

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Insert the upper section into the lower section. *Werecommend that the uppersection be bonded into the lowersection with epoxy. The mastcan be used without bonding theupper section into the lower tomake storage easier if desired.

Install the mast float to the uppermast section as shown. Be surethe blunt end of the float is facingforward towards blunt side of themast. You may have to loosenthe bracket bolts that passthrough the mast head to get thescrews aligned in the float.

Pass the halyard line through themast head from rear (track side) tofront. Pull both ends of the halyarddown the mast and tie off at thehalyard cleat on the side of themast near the base.

MAST ASSEMBLYTo step the mast upright, position themast base next to the mast step ball.The mast top and float should bepositioned to the rear of the boat inthe center of the rear crossbar. Thearrow stickerson the mast andmain crossbarmust be aligned.

Turn the mast onto it’s side to alignthe arrows.

MAST ASSEMBLY

WARNING!! The lower section of the mast is aluminumand displays warnings against assembling and sailing

near overhead wires andpower lines. The uppersection is fiberglass and isdesigned to help preventinjury that can occur if themast does contact a highpower line. Before raising themast, check that you are in asafe area and alwaysremember this warning.

* Getaway mast extrusion to CompTip assembly(normally performed by dealer prior to delivery)

The purpose is to bond the two section together andseal out water. This will also keep the joint in properalignment. This can affect sail shape if the fitbecomes loose.

Use some masking tape or the like, and mask off thearea above and below the joint to make clean upeasier. Also block off the luff tracks to prevent gluefrom bridging the sail openings due to excess glueoozing out of the joint.

Be prepared to use force during the insertion. Airtrapped inside the joint can prevent easy insertion.(The small black cap just below the joint can beremoved and an air-release path can be pokedthrough the foam if needed.) Place the mast on sawhorses or blocks. Place the base of the mast againsta solid, padded object.

Apply the bonding agent to the inside and outside ofthe mating sections. Fit the two parts together as faras possible. If force is required, hold the uppersection and pull the entire assembly a few inchesaway from the “solid object” (wall, tree, post) slidethe assembly up against the “solid object” with someforce. When the mast assembly (base) contacts the“solid object” the inertia will help slide the CompTip(upper section) deeper into the lower section.Repeat as many times as necessary to fully seat thesections together.

Prop the mast up so that the track is straight up andthen sight down the length with your eye to check thealignment at the joint. Straighten if necessary.

Remove masking tape before glue dries.

Allow bonding agent to dry.

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Once again, check the wires to see that they are positionedproperly on the mast tang shackle and that they are routed tothe hulls over the mast.

Attach the adjusters to each hullas shown. Be sure the adjustercover boots are installed on thewires first. Attach the side stay(shroud) wires to the top hole oneach side of the boat.

Slide the boots over the wire andadjusters.

STEPPING THE MAST

Before continuing, once again check for overhead power linewires that could contact the mast when raising it or whenmoving to the water for launching.

Stand on the trampoline near the rear crossbar and lift themast to your shoulder.

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MAST ASSEMBLY continued...Connect the mast base to thestep ball by positioning the stepball inside the mast base cup.

Pass the pin through the mastbase as shown. Pass the ringthrough the pin to keep it captive.This pin should remain in placewhile sailing.

MAST WIRESLocate the mast wires anduncoil. There are two side staysattached to a shackle. Find thejib assembly with swivel andupper pig tail. Pull all three wiresto the mast tang. Hang thepigtail wire between the two sidestay wires on the shackle.

Attach the shackle to the lowerhole in the mast tang. Tightenthe screw pin with pliers.

Use the safety wire provided tokeep the pin from backing outdue to vibration. Thread the wirethrough the pin head and aroundthe shackle hoop. Twist theends together with pliers to lockthe pin in place.

Route the two side stays to eachhull. Be sure there are no tanglesor twists in the wires. The wirethat crosses the mast should berouted over (on top of) the mast.

Check to be sure the wires arenot crossed. Check that they areclear to allow the mast to swingto the upright position.

WARNING!!Watch for overhead power lines. Never rig,

trailer or sail the boat near overhead power lines.Mast contact with a power line

could be fatal.

STEPPING THE MAST continued...

Be sure to keep the arrows at themast base and front crossbaraligned. Face forward on theboat with a wide stance forstability. Walk forward whilelifting the mast until the sideshrouds go tight preventing themast from further forwardmovement.

Lean your weightagainst the mast tohold it in thisposition. The mastb a s e / c r o s s b a rarrow alignment isno longer required.

Insert the forestayadjuster into the furler drum one or two holes and pin in place.

Run the furling line from the drumto the cleat next to the mast.Pass the line through the cleatand tie a small figure 8 knot in theend of the line to keep it fromslipping back through the cleat.

At this time, pull the furling line tounwind the drum completely.The drum will be rewound whenthe sail is unfurled.

After stepping the mast, adjustments can be made to tensionthe wires and for raking the mast forward or aft. Positioningthe shrouds lower in the shroud adjusters will rake (lean) themast aft. This can help boat-handling in higher winds.

There is a limit to the amount of mast rake aft that is possible.This will be seen when the main sail block on the sail clewnears or touches the block attached to the rear crossbar whenfully sheeted while sailing. Too much mast rake will not allowyou to sheet the sail properly. It may also be more difficult totack the boat.

At this time adjust / tension theshroud wires lower in theiradjuster plates, one side at atime. Use the main halyard tohold the mast up while your crewmakes the adjustments. Be verycareful to tie off the halyard atthe mast cleat in such a way asit will not slip during this

process. You will be holding the mast with this line alone.Step aft and away from the boat on the side to be adjusted.Tension the halyard line to ease the shroud tension on thatside. Lower one side a few holes then refasten the keeper pinand ring. Do the same for the opposite side. Repeat until allthree mast supporting wires are taunt and the shroud wiresare as nearly equally adjusted as possible. Once the properadjustments are made, you will not have to repeat this processagain. Unless you want to make adjustments to the mast rakeangle.

MAIN SAIL AND BATTENS. Unfurl the sail on the trampoline.Getaway sails are shipped fromthe factory with the battensinstalled. It is important that themeans of securing the battens inthe sail be understood.

Note that the batten ends have a"V" jam cleat molded into them.

These "V" jam cleats will keep the tension line from slipping inonly one direction. Note the hollowed-out side of the cleats.Pull the line from the flush side toward the hollowed side whencleating.

Batten pocket

Start here with abowline knot

Cleat at mouth of each tip

Hollowed-out side of tip

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Once the sail is ful lyhoisted, pull the halyard,with tension, forwardand away from themast. Then pull the lineback against the mast.(Keep the line centeredwith the mast). This willplace the locking beadbelow the “2 fingered”

hook. Release the halyard to engage thehook. Repeat the process if the sail doesnot remain at the top of the mast. Tie offthe halyard to the cleat.

DOWNHAUL AND ADJUSTMENT

Tie the downhaul line to the grommet at thebottom of the main sail nearest the mast.Use a bowline knot.

Pass the l ine down andthrough the downhaul cleatlocated in the mast track.

Pass the line back up and through thedownhaul (tack) grommet. Using the 3:1purchase this creates, tension the luff of thesail until the sail looks smooth and horizontalwrinkles are removed.

Tie off the line at the cleat.

The downhaul should be tensioned justenough to remove the horizontal wrinkles inthe sail luff (forward area). The boat willperform best with light tension in light air anda bit more when the wind is stronger. When

not sailing, totally relieving the tension on the downhaul willgreatly reduce sail flogging from wind.

RAISING THE MAIN SAIL

As shown, hook the halyard to the top ofthe sail.

Feed the top portion of sail into the masttrack opening.

Begin pulling on the halyard line. Usecaution to be sure the sail feeds smoothlyinto the mast while raising.

It will be necessary to help feed the sailinto the track while hoisting.

Hoist the sail all the way to the top ofthe mast.

The lines are threaded througheach batten end cap but are nottensioned. To tension the battens.pull tension on the line forcing thebatten into the pocket and cleat it.

Tension each batten so that thebatten is well seated and thewrinkles in the batten pockets areremoved. Excessive battentension will cause the sail to bemore difficult to handle. Many sailors release the battentension at the end of the day. This action releases thepressure that might otherwise be stretching the sail while it isnot in use.

Tie a small figure 8 knot in the endof each line to prevent the battensfrom falling from the sail if the linereleases from the cleat. For extrasecurity, tuck the line under itself.This insures that the line will notwork it’s way loose from the jamcleat.

Hook

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2

3

4

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The jib is held furled by a snap hookthat is attached to the j ib clew.Before releasing the snap hook, spinthe jib clockwise 2 or 3 turns to startspooling the furler line onto the furlerspool. Release the hook from theloop and attach the 2 jib clew blocksto the snap hook. The jib can now

be unfurled by pulling on the jib clew or tightening one side ofthe jib sheets. This action will automatically roll the furling lineonto the furler spool as the jib un-furls. (If the jib is not furledand the line is also not loaded in the drum, wrap the jibaround the forestay until it is furled. Then when youunfurl, it will load the drum as desired.)

To furl the jib, ease off on themainsheet tension and releasethe jib sheets, pull on the jib furlerline. Keep light tension on the jibsheet as the sail is being furled toget a nice tight wrap. Cleat thefurler line in the furler cleat tokeep the sail furled.

There is a luff adjustment line that is installed at the jib top(head) and may need to be adjusted. While the mainsheet istensioned, and the forestay is taunt, there should be justenough tension to smooth the sail and remove the horizontalwrinkles at the luff. Too much tension can damage the sail orpull the head or tack grommet out when under sailing loads.To adjust the line you must tip the boat onto it’s side or dropthe mast down to access the tensioning line at the jib top.

If the boat is being put away for the day the snorkel should beinstalled. To do so, unhook the jib clew blocks and snap thehook onto the loop sewn into the sail. This will keep the sailtightly furled while the snorkel is installed. Re-attach thezipper and slide the snorkel up the sail as it is zipped up.

The main halyard can be used to pull the snorkel up over thejib, but if the sail is tightly furled, the halyard will not berequired. Route the halyard under a shroud and hook to thesnorkel and hoist. Tie the halyard to the halyard cleat.

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RIGGING THE JIB SAILThread the jib sheet line starting fromthe eye next to the starboard (rightside) swivel cleat. Pass the l inethrough the stainless eye and tie afigure 8 knot. Thread the onthe endthrough one of the jib clew blocks andthen through the swivel cleat. Passthe line through the swivel eye andthen the jaw and onto the main

trampoline. Cross over to the port (left) side and repeat theprocess in reverse ending at the stainless eye with anotherfigure 8 knot.

The jib is furled on the forestay andcovered by a "snorkel". To removethe snorkel, simply unzip as it is pulled

down.

MAINSHEET SYSTEM

Connect the main sheet block to thetraveler car. Attach the shackle that ispart of the blockthrough the clevis pinon the traveler car.Hook the mainsheetto the "clew"grommet at the rearof the main sail.

The tail end of the main sheet lineis used for traveler adjustment.Pass this line end through theswivel cleat jaws (from forwardtowards rear of the boat) theneye. Pass the line through thetraveler car. Pass the line through

the stainless eye on the rear side ofthe cross bar. Tie a figure 8 knot inthe end of the line to keep it fromcoming out of the eye. When sailingupwind, cleat the traveler more tothe center of the boat. On a reachacross the wind or when sailingdownwind adjust and cleat thetraveler further out the track. Whensailing in strong winds you can move the car further out to helpkeep the boat more level and limit heeling or tipping.

Keep the mainsheets loose when the boat is on the beach toprevent an accidental capsize.

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RUDDER ASSEMBLY

There is a left and a rightrudder. Note the armsextending from the upperrudder castings. These"upper rudder" castingshave an angle molded intothem. The arms should beangled towards the center ofthe boat. You will also see a

colored tab on the end of each arm, one green, one red. Thered tab indicates the left rudder and the green the right.

As shown, line up the rudder pintles(metal pegs on the hulls) with therudder castings (holes with plasticbushings).Push theruddercastings downonto thepintles. The

rudder arm may need to be unlockedto allow easy positioning.

Insert the retainer pins to lock therudders in place. The pins will preventthe rudders from falling off the boat inthe event of a capsize.

The rudders are locked in the down position by pushing therudder arm aft which will seat the rudder. Push the arm downto engage the locking cam. To release, lift the arm, then pullthe arm forward until the rudder is in the "up" position. Placethe arm down to engage the upper casting with the lowercasting. Beaching will automatically release the rudders. Keepa small amount of lubricating grease on the plunger and cammechanism. If this assembly becomes dry, it will inhibit properfunction.

TILLER CROSSBAR AND EXTENSION

The rudder arms are connected bya bar called the tiller crossbar. Oneend is labeled starboard (right) andthe other port (left). There is a holein each end of the tiller crossbarand a pin on swivel on each rudder(tiller) arm. The pin is to be insertedinto the hole in the arm such that

the tiller crossbar is above the tiller arm and the tiller extensionis on top of the tiller crossbar. Capture the tiller arm to thetiller crossbar with the keyhole retainer clip on the tiller arm.

Be sure that the tiller extensionhinge is on top.

Install the hiking stick.

INSTALLING THE RIGHTING LINE

A self-retracting righting-line is provided with the boat. Threadone end of the line through a grommet located at the rear ofthe trampoline (on one side or the other of the boat) from thebottom, going upwards. Tie a figure 8 knot in the end of theline. The knot will be on top of the trampoline and the righting-line below. Thread the other end of the righting-line forward tothe main crossbar (under the boat). Pass the line through thering attached to the underside of the main crossbar. Pass theline across the main crossbar to, and through, the other ring.Pass the line through then back to and up through the aftgrommet on the opposite side. Pass the line upwards throughthe grommet. Tie a figure 8 knot in the end of the line (the knotwill be on top of the trampoline).

Refer to page 15 for righting techniques.

NOTES:

The cooler lids may not be water tight. The storage areas arenot to be considered dry storage areas.

Freezing weather conditions can damage the boat if water istrapped inside the hulls or aluminum extrusions. These areasmust be drained and dry during freezing conditions

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SAILING YOUR GETAWAYSafe and sane guideline for the beginner; and an easy reviewfor the experienced.

Always wear a life jacket when boating.

BALANCING THE BOATWhen sailing, sit on the upwind side of the boat (wind on yourback) just in front of the tiller, facing the sail. Balance yourweight further outboard as the boat begins to tip or heel overwith the wind in the sails. Tuck one foot under the hiking strapfor balance. Use your hand that is forward to hold and controlthe mainsheet. Use your hand that is aft to steer.

STEERINGSteer the boat by pushing the tiller away from you to turntowards the wind. Pull the tiller towards you to turn away fromthe wind. Keep the movement of the tiller to a minimum toprevent over-steering. This will help you keep the boat movingin a straight line as you pay attention to other watercraft andsail adjustments.

SAIL POWERFace the sail in order to pay close attention to the trim oradjustment of the sail. When the front of the sail, just behindthe mast, luffs or flutters in the breeze, you lose power. Tostart moving, pull the sail in just enough to stop the sail fromluffing. There are also short ribbons hanging on either side ofthe sail. Follow the diagram of sail and course adjustmentsabove using the "tell tails" to get the most performance out ofthe sail for all angles of sailing. The tell tails react to air flowingover the sail and will help you see that the sail is pulled in tootight or too loosely. If you pull the sail too tight you will stallthe sail power. Ease the sail out until it luffs, then pull it in justa little until it stops luffing. You will adjust the trim wheneverthe wind changes direction or you change course.

Refer to the sail trim diagram below for approximate sailsettings for the different points of sail or directions you will besailing. Note the "can't sail zone". You cannot sail in thisdirection due to the fact that the sail will luff constantly whenpointed into the wind. If you get stuck in irons (or stop pointedinto the wind) you will need to reverse the rudder and push thesail forward to back-wind it. The jib should be back winded bythe crew to assist. This will back the boat up. Reverse therudders and let the sail out until the boat is positioned moreacross the wind (close reach). Then you can correctly trim thesail and start moving forward.

WIND

COMINGABOUT

FALLINGOFF

HEADING UP

WIND

CAN'T SAIL IN THIS

AR

EAClose Hauled Close

Hauled

Close ReachClose Reach

Medium Reach

Broad

Rea

ch

Medium Reach

Broad Reach

Dow

nwin

d R

un

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TURNINGTo tack or turn the boat into and across the wind to theopposite direction (also known as "coming about"), follow thepoints of sail guide illustration and take the boat to the closehauled point of sail. This is when you are nearly 35 degreesfrom sailing straight into the wind. With the boat movingforward and not stalling, push the tiller away from you slowly.When the boat is pointing straight into the wind the boat willbecome level. Ease the mainsheet trim out just a little. At thistime move your body to the other side of the boat, switchhands with tiller and mainsheet and begin to bring the rudderback to straight. The crew should move across the trampolineat the same time. The crew is responsible to ease the jibsheet just after the main sail is released and sheet the jib ontothe new course before the mainsheet is trimmed. This actionby the crew will prevent the boat stalling head to wind. As theboat comes across the wind and falls off onto the opposite,close hauled point of sail, bring the tiller all the way back tothe straight position and pull the mainsail back in for theproper sail trim. If you stall pointing into the wind and youcannot steer the boat, refer back to the sail power descriptionconcerning getting stuck in irons.

When sailing downwind, the turn from one point of sail acrossto the other is called a jibe. The jibe is completed by turningaway from the wind (falling off) to the opposite point of sailrather than into the wind as when tacking. Care must be takenwhen attempting a jibe as the boat will be at full power andyou cannot easily de-power it without turning back into thewind. Also, be aware that the boat will be less stable in thismaneuver as the sail will now have to swing clear across fromfully out one side of the boat to fully out the other.

To start a jibe, turn the boat away from the wind and let thesail out slowly. Keep the turn going at a steady rate and beginpulling the sail back in as the boat nears the straight downwinddirection. This will help prevent the sail from slamming all theway across when the sail fills from the opposite side. Duckbelow the sail to avoid getting hit as the wind fills the sail fromthe opposite side and swings across the boat. Attempt tocontrol the speed of the sail while it crosses the deck bymaintaining some tension on the mainsheet. Then ease themainsheet out quickly as the boat turns past the downwinddirection onto the new point of sail. Trim the sail correctly forthe desired point of sail.

LAUNCHING THE BOATLaunching the boat is easiest when the boat can be pointedinto the wind to keep it de-powered and floated into deepenough water to lower the rudders. It is possible to launch inshallow water with the rudders partly up. Try not to steer withtoo much force on the rudders until you lock them in the downposition. Keep the sail loose and trimmed out completely untilyou can power up and steer away from any obstacle. Trim thesail in quickly to get the boat moving forward and steer awayfrom the wind slightly to prevent stalling into the wind.

When launching from a beach where the wind is blowing fromthe beach towards the water you simply keep the boat pointed

into the wind. Drift backwards with the rudders in the upposition and your weigh towards the front of the boat. Stayforward as the boat drifts into deeper water.You can hold thesail out to catch wind backwards to increase reverse speed.Then move to the rear and lower the rudders. It will be easiestto lower only one rudder while moving backwards. Then lowerthe other when the boat begins to move forward again. Beaware of the intended direction you wish to sail when loweringthe rudder and steer the boat as the rudder drops into thewater. There will be a lot of force on the rudder to turn oneway or the other when going backwards. Plan ahead and steerthe rudders so that they will be pointing in that direction beforedropping it into the water. Steer the boat while goingbackwards so the bow turns away from the wind and towardthe direction you wish to sail. As the sail begins to fill withwind, the boat will slow then begin to move forward. Trim inthe sail and off you go.

RIGHTING THE BOATIf you tip the boat over, staywith the boat. The boat willnot sink and is easy to right.It is not necessary, but it iseasier, to right the boat whenthe bow and the mast arepointed into the wind as inthe following diagram.

There will be less windresistance and bettercontrol in this position.Be sure the mainsheetis released, then swimaround to the bottom of theboat. Skipper and crewshould climb up on the hulland stand up. Using therighting l ine, skipper andcrew pull the righting line that is against the upper hull andhold the line while slowly leaning back away from thetrampoline. Lean to approximately 45 degrees for bestleverage. As the mast and sail lift out of the water and theupper hull begins to drop back into the water, drop down toyour knees then into the water. Hold onto the righting line nearthe crossbar or the crossbar itself near the hull that you werestanding on. This will prevent the hull from being lifted into theair by momentum which could cause the boat to capsize onceagain. Be well aware of the hull and crossbar coming downover your head. Holding the crossbar or righting line will alsoinsure that you remain with the boat when it is righted. Climbaboard and continue sailing.

centerline of the rudder pivotpins down, across the leadingedge of the blade and draw apencil line along that length.Measure the distance from thepencil line to the most forwardspot 12" down the blade fromthe bottom of the casting..

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DOCKINGDocking the Getaway properly will prevent damage. Alwaysdock and rig on the leeward side of a dock (the side the windreaches last). Come in slowly and always be aware of thewind direction so you can properly de-power the boat whenneeded. The stronger the wind the more difficult the dockingwill be. Until you feel confident, you may want to practice witha friend who will remain on the dock and help slow you down ifnecessary.

BEACH LANDINGSLanding on a beach is simple. The idea is to reach the beachin the point of sail nearest straight into the wind as possible.This will assure that you can properly de-power the sail oncebeached.

Approaching a beach when the wind is blowing from the beachout towards the water will require some planning so that youmaintain power. Turn into shore just before the hulls orrudders touch bottom. Plan so the final tack towards thelocation you choose to land is the tack that is nearest straightinto the wind. Get a little closer to the beach than you need onthe pervious tack to account for wind shifts in direction andspeed. This will give you a little room for error. This will allowyou to point a little further away from the wind after the tack togain speed before heading up into the beach to de-power atthe last moment.

When approaching a beach when the wind is blowing onshore,sail in towards the beach from either side of the landing spot.Sail in just short of touching the bottom with the rudders. Allowsome distance to turn the boat out towards the water and intothe wind just out from the landing spot. Turn sharply to headinto the wind and stall the boat. Raise the rudders and driftback onto the beach.

Always keep the boat pointed into the wind while beached andkeep the sail trimmed out and un-cleated.

RUDDER TUNINGYou may adjust the rake of your rudder blades on your HobieGetaway. The amount of rake in a rudder blade affects the"feel" at the ti l ler. Basically, more forward blade rakeneutralizes the pull on the tiller and less forward rakeincreases the pull on the tiller. Tuning blades for a comfortablefeel is a matter of individual preference but a close to neutral"feel" generally provides the best steering. The followingsketches are of a Hobie 16 rudder assembly but theadjustments are the same. 1) The first step in making any rudder rake adjustment is todetermine the existing rake. This is done with the rudderassembly hanging on the boat's transom, blade down andlocked. Using a straight edge or snap line, extend the

Rudder blade rake is pre-set at the factory to 1-1/8". Thisamount will be best for the average sailor and is a goodstarting point from which to begin any adjustments.

2) To make any adjustmentto the rake, unlock the tillerarm from the rudderhousing and leave itunlocked.

3) If you wish to increasethe amount of forward rakein the rudder blade, turn therake adjusting screwcounterclockwise using a

3/16" Allen wrench. Determine the increase in the rake byextending a new line from the centerline of the pivot pins. Re-measure the distance from the pencil line to the leading edge.Continue to adjust and measure until you have the desiredamount of forward rake.

4) If you wish to decrease the amount of forward rake turn theadjusting screw clockwise using a 3/16" Allen wrench. Checkthe decrease in the rake by the procedure in step 3 above .

5) Next, while holding the rudder forward against the lowercasting, carefully latch the tiller arm down onto rudder housing.Loosen the adjusting screw on top of the tiller arm about 3/4turn. Slide the adjusting screw forward (toward bow of boat)until it stops, then retighten. See sketch C.

Screw

Sketch B

1-1/8"

Aft for more pull onthe tiller

Forward for lesspull on the tiller

12"

Sketch C

Screw

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6) Hobie Cat rudder bladesare preset to break awayfrom the locked downposition at 17-26 pounds bytesting with a line around therudder blade seven inchesabove the lowest tip of theblade. Once the rake ischanged, the breakawaytension should berechecked. The tension maybe adjusted by turning the3/4" internal screw in thehousing. The screw tensionsan internal spring. Turn itclockwise to increaseand counter clockwiseto decrease the tension.

TRAILERINGCAUTION: Boat and mast should be securely attached totrailer with adequate tie-down straps. Failure to do so couldcause extensive damage or serious injury!

LOADING YOUR TRAILERThe weight of the boat, equipment and additional gear shouldnever exceed the manufacturer's rated weight capacity. Properdistribution of the load is of vital importance. Too much weighton the hitch will cause "tail dragging" of the towing vehicle,impairing steering and raising headlights into the eyes ofoncoming traffic. Too little or negative weight on the hitch, andthe trailer will sway or "fishtail". The solution to properdistribution is often adjusting movable gear. A morepermanent solution is to shift the axle position before takingyour boat to water the very first time.

TOWINGExtra caution is necessary when towing any trailer. Theheavier the rig, the more time required to accelerate, pass,and stop. For this reason, the maximum speed for vehicleswith trailers is less than without a trailer in most states. A longrig requires a larger turning radius. Curbs and obstructionsshould be given wide clearance. Most boats on trailersobstruct the rear view of the driver. When this happens, anadditional rear view mirror on the right side of the towingvehicle is required by law.

The trailer boatman should be familiar with traffic and highwaylaws relating to the towing of trailers. Towing a Hobie hasparticular hazards that should be mentioned. A Hobie is verywide. Obstacles should be given plenty of room when you arepassing them. Tie down straps or lashings should be ofsufficient size and diameter and placed on all four corners.

The mast support on a trailer is subject to a lot of side-to-sidemotion and consequently may fatigue where it is welded to thetrailer. All this can be reduced by tying a line from each bow tothe mast support. This will stiffen the rig up and prolong the lifeof the trailer.

LAUNCHING AND RETRIEVINGPrepare boat for launching at the top of the ramp or parkingfacility. Remove all tie-down straps, check boat plugs andfasten boat painter. Do not release winch line until the boat isin the water. Back trailer to the left if possible; backing leftgives better launching visibility. Avoid dunking wheel bearingswherever possible. Never leave the towing vehicle unattendedon the ramp with only the parking brake set. If vehicle must beleft while on the ramp, set transmission in "park" or first gear,in addition to setting the parking brake. In retrieving your boat,make sure that the boat is properly placed on the trailer. Pulltrailer up steadily to prevent spinning the wheels.

MAINTENANCELights: Most state laws require two red taillights on the rearthat may be combined with the stop and turn signals. Vehiclesover 80 inches in width require clearance lights. If lights aredunked, waterproof light fixtures should be used. If water isallowed to enter, the lamp may crack and short out the entiresystem. Water also promotes contact corrosion. Always carryspare lamps. The wire coupling to the towing vehicle shouldbe high enough to stay dry. Never rely on the trailer hitch forground connection. Four-pole connectors should be used.

The mast should not extend over three feet behind the rearlight assembly.

Wheels: Tires should ALWAYS be inflated to manufacturer'srecommended pressure. Always carry a spare wheel and ajack that fit the boat trailer. If wheel bearings are alwaysdunked, waterproof bearings and caps should be considered.If water is allowed into the hub, lubricating grease will floataway and bearings will burn out or seize, causing damage anda safety hazard. Waterproofed bearings should be inspectedprior to each boating season, others more often. Special careshould be given when traveling on unimproved roadways withsmall diameter wheels.

If a spare wheel is not available, a spare wheel bearing setshould be taken on long trips in case the grease seal has beenbroken.

FRAME AND ROLLERSRust should not be allowed to accumulate. Remove rust andrepaint with anti-rust paint. Some trailers offer galvanizedcoating to prevent rust. Rollers should roll freely and shouldnot have checks, breaks or flat spots.

TOWING VEHICLEMost vehicles are limited in towing capacity. Towing heavyloads places extra demands on the engine, transmission,brakes and other systems vital to the vehicle. Towing"packages" are available through most auto dealers andshould be considered for heavy boats.

CAUTION / SAFETY TIPS

• Watch for overhead power lines. Never rig,trailer or sail the boat near overhead power lines.Contact with a power line could be fatal.

• Sail to your experience. Do not try to do morethan you can. Do not take the Getaway out in thesurf and do not head out for the ocean unless youare a real professional.

• Wear a life jacket. Wearing life vests while sailingis important for everyone. Due to the large numberof novice sailors that have purchased the Getaway,it is even more important to review this safetyissue. Wearing a life vest is a smart thing to do.Also, a sailboat could sail away by itself if a personwere to fall overboard. The best advice to a sailoris to stay with the boat. If they happen to falloverboard, or when righting the boat, they shouldhold onto the boat and not let it get away.

• Learn the right-of-way rules and when in doubt, give way to others.

• Adhere to car roof rack manufacturer's weight limitations and tie down suggestionswhen car-topping the Getaway. (The combinedweight of the Getaway hulls and mast is approx.150 lbs.)

• When trailering the Getaway be sure to tie theboat and all the loose parts to the trailer in asecure manner. Stop and check the tie downsoften.

• Hobie Cat does not recommend leaving theGetaway in the water on a mooring. Acceleratedwear to the boat and rigging will be experienced.Damage to the hull material is possible. Limitationof the mast rotation and tensioning of the riggingare required to lessen this wear. Inspect riggingoften and tape rigging rings and shackles to preventloosening.

For your nearest HOBIE dealer or

for help and information call:

1 (800) HOBIE - 49

HOBIE CAT4925 Oceanside Blvd.

Oceanside, CA. 92056Phone (760) 758-9100 Fax (760) 758-1841