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t h e i n f l i g h t m a g a z i n e o f a i r u g a n d a p a r t o f t h e
i s s u e n u m b e r 0 0 2 m a y – j u l y 2 0 1 0
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LAKE VICTORIA SERENAR E S O R T
A WORLD AWAY FROM THE CITYJust 15 Kilometres from Kampala and 35 Kilometres from Entebbe, on the shores of lake victoria, rests a
resort of ultimate beauty, tranquility and peace. This newest addition to the Serena family is the perfect resort to unwind and escape the stresses of city life.
PO Box 37761, Kampala, Uganda, Lweza-Kigo road, Off Entebbe road or Call +256 41 7121000, Fax +256 41 7121550 e-mail: [email protected]
The central lounge and reception The rooms and suites
Maisha Mind Body and Spirit Spa The pool and garden view
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
K
A4_ad.pdf 4/29/10 9:26:37 AM
Welcome Aboard!
It is my pleasure to thank you for making Air Uganda your airline of choice.
My job as Airport Services Agent is to make sure your airport check-in and boarding
experience is smooth, exceptional and reliable at Entebbe International Airport.
Our ground handling customer service is dedicated to providing:
Friendly and efficient customer service from all our airport staff.•
Professional team members that can assist you through the airport processes.•
Assistance with how you can benefit from your Celestars Frequent Flyer •
Programme.
On-time, unrivalled performance. We are proud of our punctuality record (for the •
first quarter of 2010 Air Uganda achieved an average of 90 per cent on-time
punctuality across the network).
Occasionally you may experience an inconvenience or delay that is usually out of our
control, such as bad weather, which can impair aircraft fuelling, boarding of passengers
and loading catering. Even when a delay is unavoidable, we seek to minimise customer
inconvenience.
As part of our fleet plan, Air Uganda acquired a second Bombardier CRJ regional jet in February 2010 enabling more flexibility
inflight scheduling and network expansion.
The new 50-seater CRJ enabled us to introduce daily flights to Kigali in line with our business plan.
In December last year, with our sister airlines, Air Mali and Air Burkina (all members of Group Celestair) we launched the Celestars
Frequent Flyer Programme which rewards our frequent travellers with ‘free miles’ that can be redeemed for flights, extra baggage
allowance and upgrades on our two-class MD87 aircraft. This programme has become increasingly popular with our regular business
travellers. Registration for Celestars can be done on our website (www.air-uganda.com) and is very easy to manage online.
With our flexibility of up to 30-minute check-in before flight departure, we encourage our passengers to sleep or work longer but
still always arrive on time for check-in. Check-in counters close 30 minutes prior to departure to enable enough time for the remaining
preflight documentation procedures that are required for a safe and on-time flight departure.
On behalf of Airport customer services and the entire team at Air Uganda, we extend our heartfelt gratitude for your continued
support that has allowed Air Uganda to grow and provide you with an improved range of services and destinations.
So, sit back, relax and allow our friendly, caring cabin attendants to serve you while you read more about Air Uganda!
Enjoy our latest edition of the in-flight magazine which you are welcome to take home and share with your friends.
We look forward to serving you again.
Ms JOYCE KABASIITA
Airport Customer Services Agent, Entebbe.
EDITORIAL
t h e i n f l i g h t m a g a z i n e o f a i r u g a n d a p a r t o f t h e
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5 UGANDA IS TRULY THE PEARL OF AFRICAUganda offers the visitor unparalled dramatic landscapes, a profusion of wildlife and unique experiences.
CONTENTS
REGULARS
Editorial by Cabin Crew Manager
Book World
Air Uganda Flight Schedule
Healthy Travelling
Route Map
Offices
Tips for the Traveller
Crossword Puzzle & Sudoku
1
33
47
48
49
50
51
52
12 ANOTHER KENYADiscover some magical parts of Kenya, away from the usual tourist tracks.
16 WHAT’S NEW ON THE WATERFRONT Things are changing in historic Dar es Salaam with modern developments moving alongside the older buildings.
20 COFFEE FROM AGES PAST It is coffee’s social aspect that makes it so important and unique in Zanzibari culture.
22 CARVED DOORS THE KENYA COAST’S LIVING HISTORY A stroll through the alleyways of Mombasa’s old town reveals exquisitely carved wooden doors.
30 THE SHOEBILLUganda is arguably the most alluring country in Africa to birdwatchers.
36 WHAT IT’S ALL ABOUTSuccessful people give you results. Others will give you their rationale.
38 ACROSS AFRICA WITH A CAMERAFollow the journey of one of the first wildlife photographers, Cherry Kearton, on an epic trek nearly 100 years ago.
41 MEXICO WELCOMES UGANDA TO THE 9TH WORLD WILDERNESS CONGRESSConservationists are working tirelessly to rescue wild areas from being damaged to serve human needs.
44 HERE BE ELEPHANTSSome weighty advice on where to get the best sightings of everyone’s favourite animal.
Cover picture: Casting net for fishing on
Lake Victoria.
34 SUPERFOODSSome sound dietary advice for good health and a long life.
24 MOUNT ELGON A REAL WILDERNESS ADVENTUREA spectacular ancient volcano, flanked by a natural wilderness that will thrill the adventurous.
28 SLEEP? EASY!How 95% of those suffering from trouble sleeping can be helped without resorting to prescription medicines.
Camerapix Magazines Ltd Rukhsana Haq
Roger Barnard
Cecilia Gaitho
Sam Kimani Fatima Janmohamed Azra Chaudhry, U.K Rose Judah
Rukhsana HaqJenifer B. MusiimeDesire Barugahare
Publishers:
Editorial Director:
Editor:
Editorial Assistant:
Senior Designer:
Design Assistant:
Production Manager:
Production Assistant:
Editorial Board:
ASANTE meaning ‘Thank you’ in Kiswahili
is published quarterly for Air Uganda
by Camerapix Magazines Limited
P.O.Box 45048,00100 GPO Nairobi, Kenya
Telephone: +254 (20) 4448923/4/5
Fax: +254 (20) 4448818 or 4441021
E-mail: [email protected]
Editorial and Advertising Office:
Camerapix Magazines (UK) Limited
32 Friars Walk, Southgate, London, N14 5LP
Tel: +44 (20) 8361 2942
Mobile: +44 79411 21458
E-mail: [email protected]
Correspondance on editorial and advertising
matters may be sent to either of
the above addresses.
Printed in Nairobi.
©2010
CAMERAPIX MAGAZINES LTD
All rights reserved. No part of this
magazine may be reproduced by any means
without permission in writing from
the publisher.
All photographs by Camerapix unless
otherwise indicated.
5 UGANDA IS TRULY THE PEARL OF AFRICAUganda offers the visitor unparalled dramatic landscapes, a profusion of wildlife and unique experiences.
WELCOME ABOARD
5 12
16 20
22
34
38 44
30
41
24
36
28
Pearl of Africa
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 5
Pearl of Africa Uganda is Truly the
Uganda, the warm heart of Africa, offers the visitor unparalleled
dramatic landscapes, a profusion of wildlife and unique experiences,
Asante reports.
country focus: Uganda
>>
Pho
tos
© C
amer
apix P
ublis
hers
/D
avid
Plu
th
This picture: Lake Mutanda is a small freshwater lake with several islands, located
in Kisoro district. It is nestled in the foothills of the Virunga Mountain Range at an
altitude of 1,800 metres (5,900 feet).
6 | air uganda | may – july 2010
Uganda, once the ‘Pearl of Africa’ has cast off the layers of its grim past and
now stands proudly lustrous. After a decade of peace the land is flourishing, the
towns and cities bustling with trade and activity, the economy expanding and the
people as welcoming as always.
Straddling the Equator in the heart of Africa, Uganda is blessed with an abundance
of natural assets. The size of Britain and lying between the two clefts of the Rift Valley,
Uganda’s terrain ranges from snow-capped mountains to lake-filled valleys, from extinct
volcanoes to highland plateaux. The country’s varied beauty is breathtaking.
Nicknamed the Breadbasket of Africa, Uganda is one of the most fertile countries on
the continent. It receives more than 2,000 millimetres (78 inches) of annual rain feeding
streams, rivers and lakes which cover 25 per cent of its surface. The resulting vegetation
– tropical rain forests, savannah scrub and Afro-alpine flora are host to an awe-inspiring
variety of wildlife including the threatened gorilla. All of this rich heritage is being jealously
guarded by the current government to retain its splendour for everyone’s enjoyment today
and in the future.
Some of Uganda’s features are outstanding. The country boasts the second largest
fresh water lake in the world, Lake Victoria, where the boundaries of Uganda, Tanzania
Uganda, the warm heart
of Africa, offers the visitor
unparalleled dramatic
landscapes, a profusion
of wildlife and unique
experiences.
country focus: Uganda
Above:
Despite the constant building,
Kampala remains green and inviting.
Opposite top left:
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, home
to over half the world’s estimated
600 mountain gorillas.
Opposite top right:
Endangered mountain gorilla.
Right:
Beautiful joyous children of Uganda.
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 7
country focus: Uganda
>>
and Kenya converge and the River Nile starts its 6,400 kilometres
(3,977 mile) journey to the Mediterranean. Close to Lake
Albert in the west, the Nile waters are thrust through a 6-metre
(20-foot) gash in the rocks producing the awesome spectacle of
Murchison Falls plummeting 42 metres (138 feet).
The force of the river, harnessed by the Owen’s Falls Dam near
its source at Jinja, provides the country with its major electricity
supply and much of its earnings; both Tanzania and Kenya also
benefit from this hydroelectricity scheme.
Other commercially exploitable assets include rich sources of
minerals and metals such as phosphates, graphite, magnesite,
dolomite and limestone, copper and gold, and – potentially – oil in
the Rift Valley.
With stability restored, the people are able to reap rewards
from the country’s natural gifts and exploit their native
entrepreneurial skills. Eighty seven per cent of the country’s GDP.
The major cash crops include coffee, cotton, tea, tobacco and
maize. The natural fertility and abundant rainfall allow farmers to
produce two or even three crops a year. Future developments look
to other horticultural products such as vegetables and flowers for
export to Europe and the Middle East.
Diversity of the land is reflected in the diversity of the people.
Although there are four major groups, Bantu, Nilotic, Nilo-Hamitic
and Sudanic comprising over 33 ethnic groups, speaking over
40 languages, the people are united in their efforts to restore
Uganda to its previous posterity.
Diversity of the land is reflected in the diversity of the people
8 | air uganda | may – july 2010
country focus: Uganda
Left:
Casting net for
fishing on Lake
Victoria.
Right:
The thundering
Murchison
Falls, where
the mighty Nile
is funnelled
through a
7-metre
(23-foot) cleft in
the rocks.
Uganda has a rich history dating back 500,000 years when,
according to fossil evidence, early humans inhabited the western
Rift Valley. The Bantus have an agricultural heritage; by 5,000 BC
Bantu groups living in the west, south and east of modern Uganda
tilled the land and smelted iron, later adopting south-east Asia
crops such as yams and bananas today’s staple food crops for the
average family.
Pastoral immigrants from the Ethiopian region intermarried with
the agricultural Bantus and established pastoral aristocracies in
western and central Uganda. Nilotic nomadic groups migrated
from the north by the first millennium AD and eventually
established the dynasty of Bunyoro.
For centuries the various groups have traversed the Ugandan
plateaux, merging and clashing and establishing new groups and
languages. Out of these diverse groups developed several states
or kingdoms: in the west and centre the original Bachwezi empire,
later superseded by the centralised kingdoms of Bunyoro and
Nkore which in turn became dominated by the more cohesive and
liberal kingdom of Buganda. Buganda continued to dominate until
colonisation in the late 1800s.
In the late 1700s Arab and European traders of cloth, utensils
and guns, in exchange for ivory and slaves, were closely followed
by Muslim and Christian missionaries, explorers such as Grant and
Speke, and finally European colonialists. After innumerable political
squabbles amongst the colonial powers, Uganda eventually became
a British Protectorate in 1894.
The financially-stretched British resorted to indirect rule,
relying on Bugandan agents to administer the rest of Uganda.
This administrative legacy still has political repercussions for
modern Uganda and resentments have reverberated throughout
this century, causing much bloodshed. Ethnic hostilities even
threatened the birth of independent Uganda which eventually
occurred in 1962.
After the terrifying times of President Milton Obote and Idi
Amin, the current political situation has a healthy broad-based
government drawn from all political parties and groupings.
The government aims to achieve a more equal distribution of
power through its new constitution. And it is this new political
climate which has secured peace for the country and restored
optimism and energy to the people.
>>
Most visitors, of course, are attracted to this distinct country by its game parks, its majestic mountains and lush landscapes
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 9
country focus: Uganda
On arrival, visitors are impressed by the modern, efficient
Entebbe Airport run on international standards. It has been greatly
renovated and expanded since the dramatic days of the Entebbe
raid when Israeli troops liberated the PLO-hijacked French plane.
Entebbe is only half-an-hour’s lakeside drive from the thriving
capital, Kampala, also on the shores of Lake Victoria. The capital
was once the site of a Bugandan palace where the royal impala
grazed. From this picturesque tradition the city derived its name:
Kasozi ka Impala or Hill of Antelopes. But rather than one hill,
Kampala, like legendary Rome, was built on seven. The original hill
on which British explorer and adventurer, Captain Frederick Lord
Lugard, built a fort and administrative post, is now known as Old
Kampala Hill. The fort still stands and although the government
offices have moved to Nakasero Hill, now the city centre, it is one
of the main tourist attractions of the city.
Other places of interest to visitors include the prestigious
Makere University – the first in East Africa; the National Museum
housing several cultural, ethnological and musical collections; the
imposing Parliament Buildings; Nommo Art Gallery dedicated to
local artists; the ancient Bugandan Kasubi Tombs; the macabre
Martyrs’ Shrine and other religious centres including the Bahai
Temple unique in Africa.
Kampala is one of the most pleasant cities to walk around.
Not only is it safe from muggings and pestering but the pleasant
climate and temperature, enhanced by cool lake breezes and the
green landscaped streets make it a delightful place to meander in.
It may rain most days, but the wettest and possibly less pleasant
months are February to April and October to December.
The visitor is spoilt for choice when it comes to hotels,
restaurants and cafes. Local and international cuisine are on offer
as is accommodation to suit every one’s taste and pocket. Almost
every week new hotels, apartments and places for refreshment
open their doors, making Kampala a dynamic, energizing city.
Most visitors, of course, are attracted to this distinct country by
its game parks, its majestic mountains and lush landscapes.
A trip to Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in the south-west is a
unique experience for even the most sophisticated world traveller.
It is there that over half the world’s estimated 600 gorillas live on
the brink of extinction. The park is contiguous with Rwanda’s Parc
National des Volcans – made famous by the film Gorillas in the Mist
and infamous by the murder of conservationist Dian Fossey – and
Zaire’s Parc National des Virugas. But due to the civil strife in both
these countries, gorilla viewing is more practical from the
Ugandan side. >>
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 1
NFT Consult Ltdyour virtual HR department
1. Staff Outsourcing.2. Staff Recruitment.3. Training and Personal development.4. In-depth staff background checks.
NFT Consult – UGANDA Plot 6/8 Kyaggwe Road, Nakasero, Kampala. P.O.Box 26411 Tel: 256 (0) 414-237904/24 256 (0) 312-266904
NFT Consult – RWANDA Plot 8721, Golf Course Road, Nyarutarama, Kigali. P.O.Box 5595 Tel: 250 (0) 252 570099 250 (0) 755335419 General Email: [email protected] Website: www.nftconsult.com
NTF.indd 1 4/14/10 3:41:41 PM
10 | air uganda | may – july 2010
country focus: Uganda
Uganda enjoys
a variety of
watersports
like whitewater
rafting (Far
left) and bunjee
jumping (Left).
Conveniently situated in the leafy, up-market residential suburb of Kololo, within 5 minutes of the CBD and close to all major embassies.
Protea Hotel Kampala is the brand new alternative in luxury accommodation, offering a variety of services and facilities. GUESTs can unwind and refresh with a cocktail on the terrace, overlooking the plush
landscaped garden.
For more information, visit www.proteahotels.com
To protect these rare creatures viewing is strictly limited.
Only small parties of adults are escorted through the forest to
the most recent viewing site.
From there on the ranger tracks the gorillas until, if lucky, the
party comes upon the gentle giants quietly munching, grooming
or socialising. Most visitors are mesmerised by these near-
human creatures; but tight rules govern visitors’ behaviour
to both parties’ benefit. Although the primates have been
‘habituated’ to humans, aggression is possible and an attack by a
210 kilogrammes (460 pounds) silverback male is a formidable
prospect. Visitors must remain quietly at a distance, making no
sudden movements. Flash photography is forbidden so 800 or
1200 ASA film is recommended to record these black-coated
creatures in their shady habitat.
Regulations also insist that visitors are healthy for two reasons.
Firstly trekking through the highland forest is physically demanding
and requires both strength and stamina. Secondly their genetic
closeness makes the gorillas susceptible to human disease – a
disease that could swiftly wipe out their remaining number.
But apart from these singular creatures, Mgahinga Gorilla
National Park is home to another rare primate, the golden
monkey and endangered mammals such as leopard, elephant
and several cat species. Twelve endemic bird groups inhabit the
park including the handsome francolin, the Rwenzori turaco and
stripe-breasted tit.
Visitors may also be tempted by guided hikes and climbs
through the park or a trip to the Garama Cave, once home to
Iron age communities.
Nearby Bwindi Impenetrable National Park – containing one
of the largest natural forests in East Africa including six square
kilometres of bamboo – offers another rare opportunity to view
the gorillas but the dense undergrowth makes the trekking more
challenging and is not to be undertaken by the faint-hearted.
However the rich ecosystem makes the effort worthwhile.
Other much-visited destinations including the lush, forested
western highlands fringed by the ‘Mountains of the Moon’. The
area boasts three lakes named after British Queen Victoria’s
sons, four national parks and several forest reserves. Each of
these magnificent parks has unique features and ecosystems:
Semuliki enjoys hot springs, averaging temperatures of 106ºC
(223ºF), providing a specialised micro-habitat for such strange
creatures as the lung fish which inhabit the mud pools. Toto
Game Reserve encompasses much of Semuliki Forest with its
lakeshore flats, swamps, dramatic forested escarpments and
wooded streams. Kibale National Park is the wettest of the
parks offering a unique moist evergreen forest habitat hosting a
profusion of primates and diverse wildlife. But the priceless jewel
of them all is Rwenzori Mountains National Park or ‘Mountains
of the Moon’. It is a land of mists and mysterious rock and ice
formations, weird overgrown vegetation, and the echoing, eerie
screeches of the nocturnal hyrax. Such are the opportunities of
this park, it takes a minimum of six or seven days to savour its
splendours.
Apart from rewarding game watching and healthful trekking
in the photogenic landscapes of the western highlands, there is
golfing at Fort Portal and swimming or fishing in Lake Saka, a
crater lake eight kilometres from the town.
Less well-known tourist sites include Lake Victoria’s 84 Sese
Islands, unspoilt refuges of tranquillity and hospitality. Untouched
by civil strife, and off the usual tourist tracks, the people are
warm and welcoming and the islands safe to explore on foot.
Alternatively the local fishermen offer opportunities for impromptu
boat trips around the islands, or bicycles are available for hire on
the main island of Buggala.
Many of the islands are uninhabited and the untouched forest
and verdant vegetation are bursting with wildlife, colourful birds
and butterflies.
But no matter which part of Uganda toured, the mode of
travel or the time of year, the visitor will be amazed by the
spectacular landscapes, the warmth of the people and the
diversity of wildlife.
Most will agree that little appears to have changed since the
1900s when Winston Churchill exclaimed in My African Journey.
‘For magnificence, for variety of form and colour, for profusion of
brilliant life – plant, bird, insect, reptile, beast – for vast scale .
‘Uganda is truly the pearl of Africa.’
>>
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 11
country focus: Uganda
Conveniently situated in the leafy, up-market residential suburb of Kololo, within 5 minutes of the CBD and close to all major embassies.
Protea Hotel Kampala is the brand new alternative in luxury accommodation, offering a variety of services and facilities. GUESTs can unwind and refresh with a cocktail on the terrace, overlooking the plush
landscaped garden.
For more information, visit www.proteahotels.com
12 | air uganda | may – july 2010
destination: Kenya
The Samburu were faultlessly accommodating. They parted
ranks, admitted me with a smile and refrained from visibly
laughing as I performed their vertical dance with all the
grace and skill of a drunken sailor.
My intrusion didn’t faze them for a moment. That afternoon
they had been hurling themselves skywards – with regular mass
perambulation to vary the pace – for long enough to have entered
into something approaching the sort of euphoric trance that I
believe is fruitfully called upon by African marathon runners. I
locked into the rhythm of their chant with my own, threw my
head back and managed a good two or three leaps before I
became painfully aware of how my kneebone is connected to my
thighbone. I would be aware of it for some days.
Living above the equator in the Great Rift Valley and Northern
Frontier areas of Kenya, where the northern desert merges
into the foothills of Mt. Kenya, the Samburu are cousins of the
better-known Maasai warriors from the south, and though they
don’t appear on quite as many postcards, book jackets, films,
photographs and paintings, are no less striking. Tall,
straight-backed, proud, strong and handsome, these cattle
herders and hunters have a highly-regarded position in a country
of 30 languages, said to have the greatest diversity on the
continent. They enlisted with British forces in World
War II and are now well represented in Kenya’s
armed forces and police.
For Peter Cadot they, and the Laikipia
Maasai people, are an essential
component of his Loisaba Wilderness
private game ranch of 150 square
kilometres, a short plane hop
from Nanyuki in Mount Kenya
National Park. A white
Kenyan of long heritage in
the former British colony,
Peter and his family have
carved out a remarkable
retreat on the edge of
the Laikipia Plateau
escarpment; one
that incorporates
a wildlife
conservancy,
a working cattle station and a luxury lodge of seven rooms.
From the decks, balconies and dining verandahs of the lodge
are views that sweep dramatically down 300 metres and out
over a compelling terrain of open red oat grass plains, acacia
scrub, and a two-river system supporting 50 species of wildlife
and – one of the largest biodiversities after the Serengeti/Mara
ecosystem – 250 bird species.
The same size as the Ngorongoro Crater and larger than many
of Kenya’s principal game parks, Loisaba is high enough for a
year-round temperate climate which actively encourages a wide
range of adventure activities – game drives, camel trekking, horse
riding, rafting, mountain biking, climbing, hiking, bird watching
and, with the aid of five-passenger Squirrel helicopters, trout
fishing on Mount Kenya, trips to Lake Turkana and the northern
deserts, and morning hilltop breakfasts. Promising that “mind,
body and soul will surely be invigorated”, the Cadots welcome
their wanderers back to the pleasant garden complex of the lodge
each evening with such enticements as a health spa, swimming
pool, tennis courts, fine meals, and a large well-cushioned lounge
with open fires and an intriguing library. Formerly the home of
Count Ancelotto, it’s hard to understand why he left.
The Cadots’ engaging 18-year-old daughter, Chala, and local
tribesman Tom Ledapus – recently shorn of his long plaited and
beaded hair on the occasion of his marriage – provided the
introduction to the Samburu village where my lower limbs were
given such unexpected exercise. Somewhat less demanding was
Glenn A. Baker investigates some magical parts of Kenya, away from the usual tourist tracks.
Another
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 13
the excursion with Peter to Loisaba’s two sets of increasingly
renowned Star Beds.
The original set are tucked away in kopje of rocks above the
vast Kiboko waterhole in one of the eastern valleys. The newer
Koija set are some eight kilometres further south, on the banks
of the Ewaso N’giro River. Reached by a suspended footbridge
from the opposite bank, these part-thatched roof, A-frame
buildings with net-covered four-poster wheeled beds (that are
placed beneath the stars each night) are cantilevered over the
fast flowing river below.
The Koija Star Beds are a joint venture with local villages,
whose red-garbed warriors not only stand guard over their
esteemed guests at night, warning off any big cats, elephants
and rare wild dogs which may have wandered off course, but also
prepare their meals and maintain their sleeping platforms.
Call it eco-tourism, call it cultural tourism, Loisaba Wilderness
represents a new front in African adventure, one gaining greater
and greater momentum. In the wake of Redford and Streep in
Out Of Africa two decades ago visitors swarmed across the main
game parks of Kenya, surrounded by ‘The Big 5’ and by almost as
many Big 4s (as in 4-wheel-drive vehicles). Today the swarms are
fewer and, while many safari visitors still make a beeline for the
destination: Kenya
>>
The Samburu are cousins of the better-known Maasai warriors
teeming herds and endless grassy plains of the Maasai Mara, just
as many are venturing further afield, to the more rugged north
and to the more specialised lodges and refuges. The overriding
desire is privacy, personal experiences, cultural interaction and
the possibility of delving into an Africa beyond just the roar of a
lion or the grunt of a hippo.
An hour or so away by light aircraft, low over mountains,
desert, lush and dramatic Rift Valley formations and some
Colonial-era plantations and farms that really do look as if they
have been painted on the lid of a chocolate box, is another
treasured hideaway being inexorably discovered by a larger slice
of the tourism flow.
The Meru National Park, also in the Northern Frontier District,
has an immediate claim to your recognition. It was in this
oft-neglected corner of the extensive and admirable Kenyan
reserve system that George and Joy Adamson raised and then
set free Elsa, the lioness of Born Free book, film and song fame,
followed by the cheetah Pippa of The Spotted Sphinx fame. In fact,
the private retreat Elsa’s Kopje – Meru’s equivalent to Loisaba –
atop Mughwango Hill was the site of the Adamson’s first base of
operations, Elsa’s Camp.
The diverse and often dramatic 870 square kilometres of Meru,
behind the Nyambeni Hills, attracts considerable praise. Leaf
through guide books and you come upon enough comments –
“One of Africa’s most beautiful national parks”, “One of Kenya’s,
and the world’s, best parks” and “Unspoilt wilderness that instills
the feeling of real Africa” – to lead to an inescapable conclusion.
Here the terrain is not only wild but the beasts in residence are
less accustomed to the human species. When sighted through
the baobab trees or doum and raphia palms they seem somehow
more special and rewarding than the jaded lion who urinates on
your back tyre and falls asleep on a track rut. Not that they don’t
present themselves – a rather strident young elephant challenged
me for road space as I was making my way to a hippo wallow in
the Rojewero River, one of the 13 that cross the park.
With habitats ranging from dry bush to forest, swamps to
grasslands, near-desert savannah to acacia groves, river to
mountain, waterfall to sudden rocky outcrop, Meru takes on the
appearance of a number of parks. It boasts some distinctive and
rare game, such as the reticulated giraffe, Grevy’s zebra, lesser
kudu, the gerenuk and the palm nut vulture. When the clouds
clear in the early morning and late afternoon the views of Mt.
Kenya can add a spectacular dimension to the visual panorama
of the day. The attraction is equally strong to both the guests of
the park’s lodges and those who buy a ticket from the gatehouse
and take advantage of the excellent network of roads to meander
about in a hire car.
Adamson had a deft touch in establishing a camp and the
builders of Elsa’s Kopje have since taken every advantage of
the prime position he staked out to integrate a classy retreat
that fits seamlessly into the rock face and takes every possible
advantage of views over Mughwango Plains. In a reclining chair
Pho
to ©
Cam
erap
ix P
ublis
hers
/Kar
l Am
man
n
14 | air uganda | may – july 2010
The Kenya experience will always, rightly, include the migration
hordes in the Maasai Mara, the pink flamingo flocks by Lake
Nakuru, the Mt. Kilimanjaro view from the game-laden Amboseli
National Park, the 19th century ambience of Old Mombasa Town
and the aquatic wonders of the Lamu Archipelago. But increasingly
it is coming to embrace the more private splendours of retreats
such as Loisaba Wilderness and Elsa’s Kopje.
with a drink in hand, the setting sun on
the distant Nyambeni Hills sears into the
consciousness. A number of the rooms
are works of art in themselves, built into
and around natural rock formations, like
sumptuous caves. Only when the maid
lowers the screens in the evening while
you are off swapping day’s tales in the
lodge bar, dining room or outdoor setting,
do you attain any sense that you are in a
‘hotel room’.
Like Loisaba, there is a strong eco-
tourism ethic at play in the establishment
and operation of Elsa’s Kopje. Also a
part of the Classic Safari Camps of Africa
group, this is again ‘small and special’
with just nine unique rooms built with
materials from all corners of Kenya and
incorporating locally constructed furniture
and evocative African design. Low, yellow
lighting allows the lodge to blend into its
environment; a strategy so successful that
I learned over breakfast that a buffalo had
wandered through the kitchen and dining
area while I was slumbering in my comfy
‘cave’. The same approach is used on night
game drives, with infra-red light revealing
a multitude of undisturbed nocturnal
creatures.
Top:
The Samburu in
their habitat –
the lowlands.
Right:
Maasai Mara,
famous for its
annual migration
of Zebra,
Thomson’s
gazelle and
wild beest; a
migration so
immense it is
called the Great
Migration.
>>
Pho
to ©
Cam
erap
ix P
ublis
hers
/D
avid
Plu
th
destination: Kenya
Pho
to ©
Cam
erap
ix P
ublis
hers
/Kar
l Am
man
n
era saedI giB derahS nehw retteB
.devreser sthgir llA .cnI ,ediwdlroW stroseR & sletoH doowratS 0102© .egrahc ecivres dna TAV fo evisulcnI .eciton roirp tuohtiw egnahc ot tcejbus era setaR
etageleD yliaD etaR
$ morf 54 rep nosrep
.rehtag seugaelloc erehw si notarehS laiceps htiw rehtegot sseccus no nalP
.setar ecnerefnoc dna gniteem
000 024 414 652+ ro alapmak/moc.notarehS
16 | air uganda | may – july 2010
What’s New onThe Waterfront
Things are changing in historic Dar es Salaam, with modern developments moving
in alongside the older buildings. Kate Nivison went to investigate and found that
Dar has not lost its soul.
destination: Dar es Salaam
In the misty Indian Ocean dawn, there’s something timeless
about the scene along the Kivukoni Front that overlooks one
of Africa’s finest harbours. At this hour, away from the main
build-ups of traffic into the city centre, there are still more
cyclists and pedestrians than jostling taxis, cars and buses, and
it’s still possible to imagine what this famous waterfront must
have looked like in the days when dhows ruled the waves of
the Swahili coast. Here and there between the coconut palms
fishing boats can be glimpsed setting out for the morning catch.
Early risers in the 100-year-old Azania Front Lutheran church
are warming up with harmonised hymn-singing for the first daily
service, their voices mingling with the call to prayer from the
mosques around Indira Ghandi Street. Seabirds and pied crows
raucously settling disputes over whatever has washed up on the
beach overnight complete the dawn chorus.
Purists maintain that ‘Peaceful Harbour’ is a mistranslation
of Dar es Salaam, which in fact means ‘House of Peace’. But
whichever you prefer, the illusion of peaceful timelessness
Pho
to ©
Kat
e N
ivis
on
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 17
destination: Dar es Salaam
doesn’t last long. This is East Africa’s second largest port,
and the third fastest growing city on the continent. As the sun
comes up, colours brighten and looming, bulky shapes become
clearer. The wake from a huge container ship is rocking a tiny
motorboat, and the Kigamboni ferry, already half-way across to
the far shore, seems intent on beating an in-bound oil tanker to
its berth.
The recently opened and very impressive Port Control Tower
near the local ferry terminal is one of the first buildings to catch
the sun – its construction being an indication of the way the
port has grown in the last 10 years. A new container terminal
and storage facilities on the southern curve of the harbour
have eased the congestion which once prevented the port from
reaching its potential. In fact in broad daylight, it’s clear that
many other tall buildings with a look that is more Dubai than
Dar have sprung up along the waterfront as well as in the town
centre and suburbs. The theme is blue – and the bluer the sky
the better they look. Some are hotels such as the Kilimanjaro
Kempinski with its famous views of the harbour and gardens full
of tropical blooms. Others are banks, including the twin towers
of the Bank of Tanzania, or expensive apartment blocks.
One of the most eye-catching of the new-comers to the scene
is the gleaming Utumishi building. Non-Kiswahili speakers could
mistake it for a swanky Japanese car company headquarters,
but in fact Utumishi stands for the Public Service Commission –
a newly formed government body that combines the civil service,
local government and education offices under one roof. Dar
may no longer be the capital – it officially lost that role in the
1970s to the more centrally situated town of Dodoma – but
many important institutions remain, even though the National
Assembly moved to Dodoma in 1996.
Until the turn of the new century there were few buildings
higher than a palm tree, including the High Court and Post
Office. Brick-red tiles the colour of the Lutheran Church spire,
or older pan roofing used to dominate the waterfront skyline,
but these are dwindling now, while the spires of other churches
such as St.Joseph’s Cathedral and the minarets of mosques
are being dwarfed by much taller structures. Fortunately, some
of these older buildings with their shady verandas, overhanging
balconies and wooden shutters have been restored in a nick of
time, so that the general aspect is still one where the old and
the new rub along together in a pleasing mix of styles. Possibly
there will also be some much needed renovation work on the
steps leading down to the beach itself, which was once a popular
place where families would walk, play and enjoy the sea breezes
that are a relief when the humidity is high.
There are still plenty of large spreading trees beneath whose
shade informal markets spring up all along the Kivukoni Front
from the local ferry terminal right round to the Zanzibar ferry
terminal. Between these two bustling hubs are the fruit and
vegetable sellers, and lads selling roasted maize cobs or Chinese
CDs and watches. Occasionally a coconut vendor will stop by
on his bike and use his machete to crack open his wares on
the kerbstones. Beyond the local ferry terminal is the main fish
market – a boisterous place from which all kinds of interesting
seafood soon makes its way onto the ‘bend-down’ pitches lining
the waterfront when the afternoon catch comes in. Yells and
laughter from haggling housewives and mini-bus drivers add
to the atmosphere, and cooking smells get more pungent and
enticing. The restaurants round the terminals attract whole
families in search of a cool drink and nyama choma, the hefty
traditional (usually beef) barbeque, before the ferry leaves in the
usual last minute burst of chaos – or the sun goes down.
Walk past the fish market onto Ocean Road, and it’s easy to
see why this hook-shaped northern peninsula which catches the
trade winds and sea breezes was considered a suitable location
for State House, prestigious hospitals, fine villas and the golf
course. It’s also on the way to a further peninsula, Msasani, long
noted as a place of escape from the heat of the city. The Dar
es Salaam Yacht Club is here, tucked into a sheltered bay, and
together with the nearby Slipway, it’s a venue for the sailing and
watersports crowd. At The Slipway there is good shopping and
Pho
to ©
Wik
iped
ia
Above:
A panoramic
view of the Dar
es Salaam city.
Left:
The city is
situated on a
massive natural
harbour on the
Eastern Indian
Ocean coast
of Africa, with
sandy beaches
in some areas. >>
This is East Africa’s second largest port, and the third fastest growing city in the continent
18 | air uganda | may – july 2010
waterside eating, and the whole of the Msasani peninsula is known
for the laid-back style of its luxury hotels. With names like White
Sands, Oyster Bay, Beachcomber and Mediterraneo, they look as
good as they sound, and offer not just superior rooms, chalets
and apartment accommodation, but fine dining for non-residents
and access to private beaches. Activities such as water-skiing,
canoeing, sail-boarding and kite-surfing are growing in popularity,
especially at weekends, and a new beach access road is nearly
finished. If conditions aren’t quite right for your chosen sport in one
place, it’s easy to find somewhere else where they will be near-
perfect.
Offshore are some of the best coral reef structures on Africa’s
Indian Ocean coast, incorporated in a marine park. Trips are
available from the hotels or other agencies to idyllic Mbudia island
for snorkelling and scuba diving. On Bongoyo island, camping is
allowed for a fee. Naturally, the marine park is protected from
fishing, but there are plenty more fish in the sea, and lots of
them will finish up in delicious sauces, or served as part of the
increasingly popular trend to ‘fusion’ dishes in the restaurants of
the peninsula.
When it comes to eating out, the whole city, and not just the
waterfront zone, has seen a boom in interesting possibilities.
To underline the international atmosphere, there are 16 Indian
restaurants listed in the city guide, half a dozen Chinese, and the
same number of coffee shops and fast food outlets. The rest of the
scoreboard looks like Italy with seven, Japan with four, and Thailand
and Korea with two. Then it’s one each for Portugal, Mexico,
Lebanon and Malaysia. ‘Multi-cuisine’ and ‘Continental’ account for
at least 40 more listings, so no one’s going to feel left out.
As for shopping, it depends on what you want – an authentic
Tanzanian experience, or something that feels like every big city
anywhere. For local colour and souvenirs, there is always Kariakoo,
said to be the largest covered market in Africa, where haggling is
destination: Dar es Salaam
the norm, and no one takes no for an answer. It can be quite
hectic, and a few Kiswahili phrases are a great help, but while
there are still markets like this, Dar is in no danger of losing its
soul to the developers.
That’s not to say that new ventures aren’t welcome. One in
particular, the Mlimani City Mall, has generated a lot of interest
since its opening in November 2008. This is Tanzania’s first
fully-enclosed air-conditioned shopping centre, with a lot more
besides. It is the result of a US$ 80 million investment by a
Botswana group, and the city is very proud of it. As well as
all the usual names – Shoprite, Game,
Truworths and Vodaphone and many
smaller enterprises, there is also an office
park, a hotel and upmarket residential
properties.
Indian music extravaganzas, art
exhibitions showing both national and
international works, hotel wine-tasting
festivals, new cultural centres and galleries
with expert Makonde carvings, Maasai
beadwork and Tinga Tinga painting – there’s
always something to see and do in Dar.
And in the magic hour before the sun goes
down behind the waterfront, when the cool
ocean breeze lowers the humidity and wafts
the smell of spicy cooking to your window,
you might just get a hint of why they called
it the House of Peace.
Above:
Dar offers a
range of exciting
recreational
opportunities;
swimming,
snorkeling, fishing
and sailing head
the list of active
sports.
Left:
Ferry terminal
bustle below
the Port
Control Tower.
>>
Pho
to ©
Kat
e N
ivis
on
Pho
to ©
Kat
e N
ivis
on
20 | air uganda | may – july 2010
feature
Christopher J. Varady looks into coffee drinking in Zanzibar,
and finds that little has changed over the centuries.
Coffee From Ages Past
Pho
to ©
Chr
isto
pher
J.
Vara
dy
With a robust trading and cultural connection
reaching into antiquity, coffee is perhaps
one of the main products and cultural
elements which links Zanzibar to the Middle East. The
Arabica coffee grown on the islands has been traded
for centuries, since the time when dhows plied the East
African coast, aided by the monsoon winds. In fact, the
Swahili name for coffee, kahawa, is obviously reflective
of the shared trade in this precious commodity between
African and Arab peoples.
The age of the dhow and empires spanning the East
African coast have long passed into history. However,
the art of coffee preparation and drinking is, to this
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 21
feature
origins coffee. With African-electronica fusion music playing in
the background, it’s easy to imagine scenes of old Stone Town in
the steam swirling up from a cup of this unique coffee.
But perhaps it is coffee’s social aspect that makes it so
important and unique in Zanzibari culture. Coffee is a drink not
to be drunk alone, but rather is a connector between people and
a tool for leisure time. In Zanzibar, the bazara (a cement bench
which is part of the exterior of most homes) is everywhere in
Stone Town. Flanking the ornate wooden doors of the houses,
the bazaras served as a way to receive guests and serve them
coffee, without compromising the intimacy of the home’s interior
which was so valued in early Islamic cultures. Since its historical
beginnings, the residents of Stone Town sat on the bazaras
outside their homes to socialise in the breezes which blow on
the Indian Ocean shore in the mornings and evenings. Playing a
game of bao or cards with coffee is ubiquitious in Stone Town’s
constricted alleys. Bazaras and coffee link the home to the
community. In Stone Town today, this way of life is just as alive
and potent as it was in the days of the Sultans and dhows.
day, virtually identical in Zanzibar as it is in Jeddah or Cairo.
Interestingly enough, it serves the same purpose as well.
Coffee, like Swahili cuisine, makes use of the abundant spices
and tastes which are indigenous to the islands. Preparation
involves traditional methods which rely on adding the grounds
to boiling water and flavouring the coffee with cardamom,
cinnamon, or ginger. The coffee is served scalding hot in small
porcelain cups with a maximum dose of caffeine. Don’t look for
milk to be added, as this is not the Europeanised version of the
drink. Coffee here is strong, black, and spicy. Neither is sugar
ever added: coffee is only sweetened with kasata (a dry sugar-
and-coconut based desert) or halua (a jelly-like treat traditionally
reserved for Arabic special occasions).
Zanzibar’s two best coffee houses, Msumbi Coffee House
and the Zanzibar Coffee House, both serve coffee according to
professional standards. They are as serious about their coffee
as the best wine connoisseurs. Both use only local beans, which
are roasted and ground on the premises. The intimate setting
of both coffee houses lends itself to savouring this true-to-its-
Pho
to ©
Chr
isto
pher
J. Va
rady
Pho
to ©
Chr
isto
pher
J.
Vara
dy
Left:
It is coffee’s
social aspect
that makes it
so important
and unique
in Zanzibari
culture.
Right:
To preserve the
fresh taste of
the bean, coffee
must be stored
properly.
Bottom Right:
Coffee served
scalding hot
with a maximum
dose of caffein
and abundant
indigenous
spices and
tastes.
The Arabica coffee grown on the islands has been traded for centuries
22 | air uganda | may – july 2010
In its quest to control trade routes across the oceans,
resulting in violent wars between the Arabs and the
Portuguese during the 15th and 16th centuries, and later as
a significant trading centre, dealing in ivory, gold, species and
slaves, the Kenyan Coast became a combination of cultures of
Bantu, Persian, Arab and Indian traders, that produced unique
architectural structures, particularly the elaborately carved
doors and verandahs.
A stroll through the alleyways of Mombasa’s old town reveals
a variety of exquisitely carved wooden doors that stand infront
of many homes, a functional part of history that can be found in
many places along the Coast.
The Kenya Coast’s Living History The Kenya coast is a favourite international holiday destination with its magnificent coastline, spectacular bird sites and
stunning marine life. However, it also has one of the most powerful remnants of history in Africa, says Jagruti Asher.
feature
Carved Doors
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 23
These doors have carved designs of geometric patterns with
variable images. Many have Islamic verses protecting the
home. These are the most sought-after doors by antique
collectors.
The Omani style doors introduced by the Mazrui and the
El-busaidy Arabs are distinctive in their appearance and
decoration. “They are delicately carved with floral patterns with
motifs of lotus flowers, rosettes and date palm designs
decorated heavily with iron studs and rivets giving a rich look”.
The Gujerati style doors were introduced by the Indian settlers
in the 1840s. They have the unique feature of being built with
shutters for the sake of security for many of the premises
belonged to traders who owned shops. They are carved at the
lintel and in the middle part of the doors. They are thought
initially to have been brought directly from India, but were later
made locally.
The most extraordinary of all the doors are the Siu doors.
The decoration of these comprise floral carvings filled with lime
and red paint. The door structure has a thick frame with carved
support and huge abstracts of lotus flowers on the doors. It is
believed that this style was influenced by the arrival of Indian
traders who settled at Siu by the late 14th century. These doors
are very rarely found today and can be seen preserved at the
Lamu Museum.
The most unusual doors, owing to their structural design, are
the Lamu style doors. These doors are decorated only at the
centre post with geometric designs. They are named Lamu style
as they are believed to have originated in Lamu stone town in
the 18th century.
Kijumwa style doors are named after Ahmed Kijumwa, who
carved them between 1890 - 1920. These doors are heavily
carved with attractive and decorative designs. There are only
around 16 of these doors found at the Coast.
The contemporary Swabu style doors, are said to be designed
by Ali Swabu. These doors are attractive with styles of flowery
motifs such as sunflowers, rosettes, palm leaves and other
decorations.
The doors that have a vague appearance and variation in
patterns, as opposed to the traditional Swahili doors, are called
the contemporary door styles. These are mostly the work of
amateur carvers.
Because of the complexity and intricacy of this art, the
traditional beauty of carved doors is gradually disappearing
due to the lack of transfer of skills from the old to the younger
generation. Fortunately, the Mombasa Old Town Conservation
office is involved in preserving these pieces of art for posterity.
These beautiful doors in ancient times reflected the status
and way of life of the owners, as well as their attribution of style
and identity of the craftsmanship of the carvers.
Judging from their features, such as the complexity of the
designs and their great height and size, they were probably
made tall as a form of protection (probably due to wars) and
wide enough to allow animal carts to pass through into the
yards of the houses. These massive doors would also have been
the main opening of the house, leading to a courtyard and to a
series of patios leading in turn to many rooms.
Peculiarly enough, these doors at one time did not have any
provision for being locked from the outside as perhaps they
would have been manned at all times.
Midway up the doors, the elegant door-knockers are secured
for the familiar hodi, hodi knock.
An interesting feature of these impenetrable entrances
was that they were often double doors hinged with iron spikes
plunged into the walls to hold them in place.
Because of their great weight they must have required a team
of men to open and close the main doors. This necessitated the
addition of a much smaller door opening – basically a cut-out in
the main door – to allow one person at a time to enter or leave
the house.
The tradition of these carved doors on the Coast started with
the arrival of sea traders from India, Oman and Zanzibar and
the skills of carving the doors probably originated around the
Persian Gulf and spread to India and the nearby countries. It
is believed that the carvers’ immaculate styles expressed their
mythology, legends and folklore on wood.
According to Mr.Kassim Omar, the Acting Principal Architect
of Mombasa Old Town Conservation Office, “the beauty of these
doors has enchanted the local people as well as the tourists,”
but he also notes that “these doors are also gradually fading
away as when owners renovate their houses, they opt not to
retain the doors. Some of the doors need urgent restoration
and repairs.”
“These doors are made of hardwood such as the African
Mahogany teak, locally known as Mbamba Kofi. “Mombasa
has around 200 of these doors and Lamu over 350,” explains
Mr.Kassim. In all he notes that “many styles of carved doors
are predominantly found in Lamu,” one of the oldest preserved
towns in Kenya.
The carved doors are distinguished by style, eight of which
are generally found on the Coast. The Bajuni style doors are the
oldest, dating back to the 12th century AD. The earliest doors
of this kind are to be found in Siu, a village in Pate Island.
Mombasa has around 200 of these doors and Lamu over 350
feature
Left:
Beautiful carved
doors; it is
believed that
the carvers’
immaculate
styles expressed
their mythology,
legends and
folklore on
wood.
24 | air uganda | may – july 2010
feature
Rose’s last chance’ or ‘Rose’s first chance’ reads the
sign, depending on whether you are viewing it as
you head to or from Mount Elgon. For us, it was our
last chance to taste Rose’s fabulous omelettes at her cheap
lodgings in Budadiri before we were met by Aron, our guide,
along with James and Alex, the two porters.
Budadiri, a lovely settlement amidst spectacular mountain
scenery at 1,250 metres, is the terminus for public transport
in the form of overcrowded minibuses or matatus plying the
route from Mbale, the main town in eastern Uganda. It is the
starting point for treks up Mount Elgon, and the last place to
buy foodstuffs. We stocked up on rice, eggs, salt, sugar, and
plantains, and headed towards the mountain.
Once past the village the trail became steep, passing
through plantations of the local Bugisu people. Maize,
plantains, coffee, peas, beans, and potatoes grow in
abundance, and cattle rearing is also popular. “The soil is
very fertile, and farmers sell their produce all over Uganda”,
commented James while picking some passionfruit. We took
a last sip of water before conquering the ‘wall of death’, once
Elgon’s most dangerous spot. The passage along a series of
steep cliffs has been made a lot easier with the installation of
an iron ladder. In the past, swinging branches were not always
that reliable.
Had we known what awaited us on the first day, we probably
wouldn’t have started. Facing the steep ridges in Budadiri, we
thought it would take us two days to cross them. But towards
the end of day one we found ourselves sitting exhausted and
thirsty in high grass, having already passed the green walls,
and with worse to come. The trail continued up steep terrain,
the ground made all the more slippery by rain. James and
Aron preferred going barefoot while carrying 20 kilogrammes
plus their own cooking equipment on their backs. In the late
afternoon, having climbed a total of more than 1,800 metres,
we reached Sasa river camp at a height of just over 3,000
metres. The bamboo forest growing around the camp seemed
impenetrable, but it was pierced by a small path used by locals
to obtain forest products long before the first visitors arrived.
Mount Elgon was gazetted as a national park in 1993, having
been a forestry reserve since 1938, and it is the forth – largest
national park in Uganda at 1,145 square kilometers. The
mountain provides clear water for a fast-growing population of
more than seven million people. It is also a water catchment
area for major lakes and rivers in both Uganda and Kenya.
Mount ElgonA Real Wilderness AdventureMount Elgon in eastern Uganda is a spectacular ancient volcano, flanked by a natural wilderness that will thrill the
adventurous. Trekking to the top of the 4,321-metre peak is a testing but rewarding challenge, as Reto Kuster reports.
Mount Elgon in eastern Uganda is a spectacular ancient volcano, flanked by a natural wilderness that will thrill the
adventurous. Trekking to the top of the 4,321-metre peak is a testing but rewarding challenge, as Reto Kuster reports.
‘
Pho
tos
© C
amer
apix .
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 25
feature
Increased agricultural activities, however, are endangering the
park’s fragile ecosystem. There are other conflicts, too, which
have yet to be resolved: “we used to collect honey and medical
plants deep in the forest”, said Aron. “But in a national park,
you can’t just pick any plant
you want.”
Early explorer, Henry Morton Stanley was, in 1875, the first
person to bring news of Mount Elgon to the outside world. In
1890 Frederick Jackson, a British explorer, climbed to the
caldera accompanied by 400 men. He reached what is known
today as Jackson Summit, at a height of 4,161 metres. There
is an array of peaks looking similarly high and it was only in the
20th century that Wagagai was found to be the highest point
at 4,321 metres.
Covering some 4,000 square kilometres, Mount Elgon has
the largest surface area of any extinct volcano in the world,
and geologists believe that this broad base indicates that Elgon
may once have been higher than Mount Kilimanjaro. To locals,
the mountain is known as Masaba, after the legendary father
of the Bugisu tribe living on its slopes. Wagagai, the highest
peak, is named after Masaba’s wife in that legend.
Climbing mount Elgon is still a real wilderness adventure in a
seldom-visited area. We spotted three chameleons, perfectly
camouflaged creatures. Several species inhabit the forests of
the mountain, even at 3,000 metres. Locals fear chameleons
and believe they bring bad luck, although these reptiles are
perfectly harmless. Other creatures are
rarely seen, though there are beautiful
beetles, butterflies, and other insects in
abundance.
Mud cave camp, at 3,500 metres,
is the base for exploring the peaks.
The night was cold and rainy, but as
we set off early in the morning the sky
was bright and blue. Giant lobelias,
endemic to Mounts Elgon and Kenya,
are common at this altitude. As we
approached Jackson’s pool, a shy duiker
antelope fled in surprise.
I had wondered before why Elgon
was dubbed the ‘mountain of illusion’.
With the sudden change in weather
conditions, it became apparent why
many explorers lost their way and lost
their illusions, too. Gaining height all the
time, we continued in cold rain, walking
over rocks barely covered in moss. Every time we thought
we had made it, an even higher peak appeared through the
mist. I stopped counting the ups and downs as I continued
my almost robot-like progress, interrupted only by one short
halt for chocolate and tea. The weather made me think of
dismal European days, but the scenery was still terrific. Finally,
a wooden plate reading ‘Wagagai Summit 4,321 metres’
indicated the highest point. Tired, we looked down.
Strong wind and rainy weather did not encourage a long break at
the top, so we soon started the descent. Just as we reached our
camp, a rainstorm pounded down. March to October is the rainy
season, but “the mountain doesn’t care about seasons. It can be
wet at any time”, James put it while warming up at the campfire.
The next morning was freezing cold, and since the last volcanic
eruption on Elgon happened about 10 million years ago, there
was no hope of warming up the natural way. Park Ranger, David
accompanied us until the end of the trek. “Sometimes, buffaloes
roam the area in search of salt,” he said, an AK-47 gun over his
shoulder, “and then there are poachers who try to kill them.” A few
years back, when Uganda was suffering badly after the years of
civil war, Mount Elgon was a favourite smuggling route for goods
from Kenya. Nowadays, the economy has caught up and smuggling
has stopped. “It no longer makes sense to carry the stuff over the
mountain”, explains David.
The trail passes through wide plains and a swampy area
covered with red orchids. Colobus monkeys watched our
Mount Elgon has the largest surface area of any extinct volcano in the world
Left:
Rock bluff near
Mount Elgon
dominates the
surrounding
landscape.
Right:
The town of
Mbale, where
the Mount Elgon
National Park
headquaters is
located.
>>
26 | air uganda | may – july 2010
passage from the treetops as we neared Piswa Patrol hut.
On the ground, other creatures caught our attention: army
ants roamed in long procession of thousands, protected
by big individuals with powerful jaws capable of delivering a
painful bite. “They will eat everything in their way, and there
is nothing you can do to stop them”, warned our guide,
removing an army ant from his foot.
Tourism is still a low-key affair on the mountain of illusion,
and all porters and guides work part-time, making their
main income as farmers. Still, visitor numbers grow, and
Aron is confident that one day locals may gain more from
ecotourism.
In the shadow of famous Kilimanjaro and Mount Kenya,
Mount Elgon is still a secret among East Africa’s trekking
destinations. There are no souvenir shops, no pestering
touts, just pure nature during the five-day circuit. Easily
reached from the capital Kampala, with no special
equipment needed and away from the mass tourism track,
Elgon has huge potential as an ecotourism destination.
feature
Left:
The beautiful
Sipi Falls,on the
way to Mount
Elgon.
Below:
Elephant in
Mount Elgon,
but they are
still rarely seen
by hikers.
Mount Elgon is still a secret among East Africa’s trekking destinations
>>
28 | air uganda | may – july 2010
One of the most common problems that people seek my
help for is insomnia. While this is due to neurological or
physical causes in a tiny percentage of my clients, 95
per cent of those suffering from trouble sleeping can be helped
without resorting to prescription medicines. Why? Because
most of the people who suffer from this problem do so for an
unexpected reason – they try too hard to go to sleep and worry
too much if they have difficulty in doing so.
WORRY-CAUSED INSOMNIAStart by analysing your insomnia and clearly identifying
whether it is caused by worry. Is your inability to sleep caused
by a specific problem that keeps cropping up, or is it just that
however hard you try, you just cannot go to sleep? Let’s tackle
the first assumption – that your insomnia is problem-related.
A large proportion of clients report that when they can’t
sleep the cause is a specific worry. They may have argued with
a friend or partner and be angry, their child may have brought
home a bad school report, they could have made a mistake at
work, or scratched the car. There are a million causes that can
unleash worry gremlins. And worry, in turn, releases chemicals
into the brain that get the heart and mind racing, pushing the
chances of a good night’s sleep into the background. You are
no doubt aware that worry gremlins do their most destructive
work at night. Your brain is in ‘top gear’ and the anxiety takes
on an importance that is wholly out of proportion to the greater
scheme of things. If you allow it to take control, it will not only
ruin your sleep, but you will certainly feel much worse for fear in
the morning.
So tackle the problem head on! Confront that gremlin! Think
about what you are worrying about and consciously ask yourself
to define this. Then get out of bed, take a sheet of paper, and
write out exactly what it is that you can’t stop thinking about.
Leave the paper and a pencil on your bedside table, and make
a conscious decision to deal with the problem after breakfast,
saying to yourself that you will put it aside until then.
SLEEP? EASY!By Walter Glaser
healthy living
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 29
The chances are that you will find an amazing thing
happening. Your subconscious mind will act like the search-
engine on your computer, and when you wake up the best way
to solve the problem may have worked its way to the surface
of your mind. Many clients who have followed this advice have
reported that, once they have written down the problem, they
have woken up in the morning, – or even in the middle of the
night – knowing exactly what to do. If that happens, write down
your thoughts and you will have no problem going back to sleep.
But letting the gremlins take control of your conscious mind
at the time when you should be sleeping will only send it into a
frenzy of counter-productive activity. So deliberately identifying
and then setting the problem aside is the first, and very
important, step. Once you have done this, you are at the same
level as the person whose insomnia is not caused by worry, and
in both cases you can now move to the next step.
DON’T TRY TOO HARD TO GO TO SLEEPSome time ago I spoke to a friend – a successful doctor
specialising in sleep disorders who told me about some
interesting research he had been doing for many years. In the
process he had, many years ago spoken to a famous brain
surgeon who had worked with head-wound sufferers in the First
World War.
During the shelling and trench warfare the surgeon had
patched up soldiers suffering from head and brain injuries. In
some cases this damage had affected patients so severely that
they were never able to sleep again. The surgeon had always
believed that total lack of sleep would cause the patients to
die, but this was not generally the case. Those patients who
could not sleep and got no rest usually did die. But the ones
who were able to rest and go into a state of alpha where the
brainwaves and heart rate reduces noticeably (as in yoga,
hypnosis or medication) often lived out their full life-spans. He
concluded that it was rest, and not sleep, that the brain really
needed.
I find that once my clients understand and accept the fact
that it is rest rather than sleep that is essential for their well
being, it brings about a profound change and takes away the
fear of insomnia. They no longer ‘try too hard’ and if they
follow my suggestions their results are generally a spectacular
improvement.
The next move is to get your mind into the ‘alpha’ mode so
that you can completely relax and put your brain into ‘low gear’,
thus allowing it to slow down into the comfort zone.
Close your eyes and concentrate on the back of your eyelids.
Most people, after they have done this for a few moments,
start to see a pattern that looks a little like a black background
with dots and shapes slowly drifting across it. If you can’t see
this, it doesn’t matter either, but it you can, concentrate on
that random pattern. Then focus on your breathing. Visualise
that, with every breath, you breathe in relaxation and breath out
tension. As you do this for a minute or two, you may observe
that you are feeling far more relaxed than you have been for
a quite a while, are very much at peace. You can feel your
breathing slow down and this is because your heart rate will
have dropped and the same will have happened to your blood
pressure. If you stayed in this mode all night without going to
sleep, you will get all the rest that your brain and body needs.
Many of my clients go to sleep very easily and naturally at
this point, and if you do this also, that’s fine. But if you are still
awake after five or 10 minutes of going into alpha, here is a
technique that those who have tried it, swear by.
THIS WILL DO IT!The method technique that will solve the problem involves
being totally counter-cyclical! Say to yourself that you do NOT
want to go to sleep for the moment because you want to try
an experiment. But know this! What I am about to suggest is
probably one of the hardest tasks you could possibly set for
your mind.
As you lie there, concentrate on the last thing you did before
going to bed the night before, i.e. 24 hours ago. And remember
in detailed terms – not in generalities. What did you do? You
may have cleaned your teeth, or had a glass of water. Replay
the last thing in your mind, and then work backwards from that.
Did you get undressed? If so, in what sequence? Did you watch
television? If so, try and replay the sequence of the show, but
remember that everything has to be played BACKWARDS in
your mind. Remember the end of it first and work backwards
to the beginning. If you ate a meal, start by remembering the
dessert in detail and finish with the soup or appetiser.
Don’t for a moment think this is easy to do. It’s a real mind-
bender! And what you will find happening is that, after a few
minutes, your mind is going to object. You’ve made it work too
hard and its tired. Your subconscious will take over, decide that
it all too hard, and you will drift off to sleep.
Don’t allow your mind to move on to any other thoughts. It is
the backwards - thinking game or nothing! And it works. Should
you wake up an hour or two later, the challenge is to go back to
the point in the memory game where you fell asleep and keep
working backward from there. Very shortly you’ll be back in
dreamland.
And that’s it. Most of my clients tell me this works as well
as for them as it has always done for me. I haven’t had to
take a sleeping pill for ages. One client, who does a lot of
intercontinental flying and had really bad insomnia found that a
single melatonin tablet (a non-prescription, anti-jet-lag medication
available from health food shops and pharmacies) also helps
greatly if his mind is really racing, but most people don’t need to
take anything at all.
Sleep well!
healthy living
30 | air uganda | may – july 2010
The Shoebill
Uganda is arguably the most alluring country in Africa to
birdwatchers, not only because of the unusually high
number of species recorded within its borders, but also
because it offers easy access to numerous bird-rich habitats that
are often very difficult to reach elsewhere on the continent.
Sir Frederick Jackson (1860-1929), a former Governor of
the Uganda Protectorate and keen ornithologist once described
the country as a “hidden Eden ... and wonderland of birds”. He
was right, as no other country in Africa can match Uganda’s
amazing diversity of habitats and this richness is reflected in the
remarkable 1008 recorded bird species that include the rare
Shoebill stork – arguably one of Africa’s most sought-after birds. A
great sportsman and explorer, Jackson devoted all his spare time
to studying natural history and was founder and President of the
Uganda and East Africa Natural History Society. As a collector, he
donated many specimens of the Shoebill to The Natural History
Museum in London.
This avian curiosity is now very often the main motivational factor
behind the many ornithological tours to Uganda, who will charter
dug-out canoes and head into the papyrus swamps in search of the
one bird which epitomizes Uganda – the enigmatic Shoebill, a huge
and somewhat prehistoric-looking relative of the pelican.
Although the Shoebills distribution ranges as far north as
the Sudanese Nile, it was among the last African birds of
comparable size to be introduced to science. It was, however,
alluded to by early European explorers to the Sudan, who wrote
of a “camel-sized flying creature” known by the local Arabs as
abu markub, which means ‘Father of the Shoe’, a reference to
the bird’s distinctive bill.
First described by the eminent English naturalist John
Gould (1804-1881), he named it ‘Balaeniceps rex’, “the most
extraordinary bird I have ever seen for many years”, words that
doubtless echo through many people’s minds when they have
their first encounter with the species.
Gould knew he had something truly exceptional, for he had
seen the collection of birds shot by Mansfield Parkyn, Esquire of
Nottingham, on the banks of the Upper White Nile in 1850, and
later the live specimens collected there by the British Consul in
Khartoum, John Petherick, who created a sensation at London
Zoo by sending them several Shoebills in 1862. Gould’s name
for the species means ‘King Whalehead’, and for most of its life
as a mysterious, monstrous, almost mythical inhabitant of the
impenetrable marshes of the Upper Nile and its tributaries, it
has gone by the English name of ‘Whale-headed Stork’.
nature & wildlife
Text and images from Peter Holthusen.
The Shoebill and the Hammerkop (Scopus umbretta) are the
‘missing links’ that connect pelicans and storks, and including
the pelican lineage in the Ciconiiformes order expresses this
more adequately than other taxonomic treatments do.
So far, two fossil relatives of the Shoebill have been
described: ‘Goliathia’ from the early Oligocene period of Egypt
and ‘Paludavis’ from the early Miocene of the same country.
It has been suggested that the enigmatic African fossil bird
‘Eremopezus’ was a relative too, but the evidence for that is very
spurious indeed. All that is known of the latter species is that
it was a very large, probably flightless bird with a flexible foot,
allowing it to handle either vegetation or live prey.
Long in the leg and broad in the wing, standing well over a
metre high and dressed entirely in dull, slate-grey plumage,
the Shoebill is dominated by its feeding apparatus, a huge and
powerful appendage ending in a ferocious nail-like hook-tipped
bill that grows to more than 20 centimetres, the largest among
all living bird species. Seemingly aggressive and primitive in
appearance, the bird has caused taxonomists constant vexation
and bafflement over its affinities. Gould thought it was allied to
the pelicans, but it has characteristics that place it close both
to storks and to herons.
Shoebills occur throughout the swamps and marshes of
Sub-Saharan Africa, but in their stronghold in Uganda they seem
to prefer floating vegetation or ‘sudd’, formed notably, though
not exclusively, by papyrus. They generally keep to the more open
areas, avoiding dense stands of pure papyrus and tall grass,
which obstruct its take-off. Sluggish and largely solitary, they
will often utilise channels widened or even opened by roaming
Hippos and Elephants. The Shoebill consumes up to half its body
weight in food daily. It tends to hunt in water that is shallow
and poorly oxygenated, preying on fish, frogs, reptiles, such as
young crocodiles, insects, small mammals and birds, usually by
ambush, standing motionless on banks or floating vegetation.
African lungfish are especially favoured. At the beginning of
the dry season, the lungfish takes the precaution of burrowing
into the mud at the bottom, wrapping its tail around its head and
secreting slime. If and when the swamp is baked dry, it will be
able to survive in a state of suspended animation, obtaining all
the oxygen it requires by absorbing it through a pair of finger-
shaped projections from its gut. The Shoebill prevents many of
them getting to this stage. As it wades slowly through the water,
clogged with vegetation, it holds its huge bill vertically downwards
so that it can focus both its eyes on the water. If it spots a
lungfish lurking on the mud at the bottom or feels it with its feet,
it lurches forward with its whole body and plunges its bill into
the water. Using its wings as arms, it pushes itself upright again
with a foot-long lungfish wriggling in its great beak.
nature & wildlife
Uganda is arguably the most alluring country in Africa to birdwatchers
The strike, when it comes, is spectacular in its speed and
power, the massive bird flapping and pouncing downward to
grasp the passing prey in its inescapable mandibles. The sharp,
upcurving edges of the bill and hooked-over tooth gripping,
crushing and piercing in one decisive moment. Partially
nocturnal and sluggish, the Shoebill supplements its diet by
probing the mud for nutrients with its bill. They also fly with their
heads and necks folded back.
As the breeding season approaches usually in the months
of April to June, the male and female start engaging in a bill
clacking courtship display prior to mating. The birds are solitary
nesters, laying one to three oval, whitish eggs over the course
of two to three days in a large, flat nest built amidst swamp
grasses or sedges, usually on the ground in remote areas.
These eggs are incubated primarily by the female for 40-50
days until they hatch, while being fed at intervals during the day
by the male. The silvery brown chicks remain helpless for some
time, the young birds being dependant on the skilful hunting of
their parents. In common with several other members of the
stork family, a nesting Shoebill will stop the eggs and chicks
from overheating in hot weather by filling its ample bill with
water and sluicing the nest. Usually only one nestling survives,
possibly as a result of sibling rivalry or external predation.
The African population is estimated at between 5,000 and
8,000 individuals, the majority of which live in Uganda, Tanzania
and Sudan. Estimating its numbers has proved very difficult,
however. This and other evidence suggests that the Shoebill
probably survives well enough in its marshland habitat in these
countries, in addition to Zaire, Zambia and parts of the Democratic
Republic of Congo. Records from other countries are few and
seem generally to refer to vagrants (the bird soars to great
heights and clearly possesses good dispersive abilities), although
there is also a chance a small population breeds in Malawi, where
local people in the Liwonde National Park have a name for the
species. Smaller (and probably non-
viable) resident populations
inhabit Rwanda’s
Akagera National
Park, the Baro River
floodplain in south-
western Ethiopia and
possibly Burundi and
the Central African
Republic.
In their
Ugandan
stronghold,
Shoebills >>
32 | air uganda | may – july 2010
nature & wildlife
>> are mainly seen in the Mabamba Swamp near Entebbe on
the shores of Lake Victoria, the banks of the Nile River in the
Murchison Falls National Park, the Ishasha sector and Lake
Kikorongo in the Queen Elizabeth National Park, Lake Kyoga
and the southern fringe of Lake Albert that adjoins the Semliki
Wildlife Reserve.
More difficult to quantify is the threat posed by the
international animal trade, which is restricted by the Shoebill’s
inclusion on CITES Appendix II and by the legal protection
afforded to the bird by Uganda and other countries in its range.
Nevertheless, the Shoebill is still in high demand by the zoo
trade and appears unable to breed successfully in captivity,
which places a very high price-tag on wild individuals captured
for sale – at US $10,000 to $15,000; it is the world’s most
expensive bird. One can only hope that a recent proposal to
upgrade the Shoebill to CITES Appendix I will soon render all
such trade illegal under international law, although it would
perhaps be naive to think it would eliminate the trade entirely.
All the same, this is a bird the African Red Data Book lists as
‘Of Special Concern’, owing to swamp drainage and general
disturbance and modification of its habitat.
Whatever its status, the Shoebill is one of the truly great
African species and the survival of the bird is paramount
considering the increasing number of dedicated ornithologists as
well as the novice birdwatchers who travel to Uganda to get a
glimpse of this rare and bizarre bird.
The Onyx Jewellers has been established for over 35 years and has earned the reputation
as one of Kenya’s most prominent retailers of fine jewellery, precious and semi-precious
gemstones namely Tanzanites, Tsavorites and Diamonds as well as exquisite hand-
crafted sculptures and carvings.
Boasting a range of jewellery that is as diverse as its client base, our shops have
over the years, been frequently visited by various heads of state, dignitaries
and other high-profile personalities who have all enjoyed the Onyx
shopping experience and regularly commission pieces that today serve as
a continued testament to our commitment to, aesthetic designs, expert
craftsmanship and attention to detail.
The Onyx Jewellers remains dedicated to creating exquisite and delicately
designed pieces of fine jewellery that would suit any occasion.
Today these prestigious jewels and more are available from our shops at
the Nairobi Hilton Hotel, at our fine jewellery gallery located in Nairobi’s
ABC Place on Waiyaki Way and at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.
If you would like to make an appointment or to visit any of our shops please contact us on;
+ 254 (0)733 786 117/118/119 or email: [email protected]
We look forward to seeing you!
Left:
The Shoebill
is a very large
stork-like bird. It
derives its name
from its massive
shoe-shaped bill.
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 33
For more information contact: Books ’R’ Us LTD, | P.O. Box 45048, 00100 G.P.O. Nairobi, Kenya Tel: +254 (20) 4448923 / 4 / 5 | Fax: +254 (20) 444 8818 or 4441021 Email: [email protected] www.camerapixpublishers.com
Books‘R’Us
‘Birds stun our senses with the beauty of their perfection, whether
soaring on the wing or seen in the hand, when every detail can
be marvelled at, and it is this that the paintings in this book strive
to capture. But there is something more: each bird has its own
charcter, every species its own charcteristics. The achievement of
this book is that the words and paintings combine powerfully to
bring this to the fore.’
Jonathan Scott
Featuring two large-format hardback coffee table books, portraying a
journey through Uganda, acting as a stimulus to tourism,
as well as being the ideal souvenirs of a visit.
A Gallery of East Africa Birds Size: 280 mm length 280 mm widthPages: 136 printed 4/4 with full colour illustrations Cost: USD 39.00
Field Guide to the AmphibiansSize: 120 mm length 170 mm widthPages: 230 printed 4/4 with full colour illustrations Cost: USD 24.00
book world
At last, a book that will allow you to identify most of the amphibians found in the
world famous biodiversity hotspots of the Eastern Arc Mountains and Coastal
Forests of Tanzania and Kenya. This guide allows both the English and the
Swahili reader to identify and obtain natural history and conservation information
for the 122 species of amphibians found in the hotspots. In addition, the book
provides important background information on habitat types and presents a
historical perspective for those not familiar with the area and its fauna.
34 | air uganda | may – july 2010
Superfoods The way to good health
Imagine a superfood – not a drug – powerful enough to help
lower our LDL (bad cholesterol) levels, reduce the risk of
heart disease and cancer and, for an added bonus, enhance
our looks without getting bankrupt. Did I mention that there
are no side effects? Guess what? These life-altering not-so-
expensive, natural super foods are available right now in your
local supermarket. Superfoods are a group of wholesome foods
that are a pack of essential nutrients. They’re particularly low in
calories, help us to keep healthy, give us more energy and help us
to look fantastic and fit. Medical professionals have researched
and found that that superfoods also provide protection against
various diseases, and promote a healthy lifestyle now and for the
future. The antioxidants found in these products are a class of
vitamins, minerals and enzymes that may help eliminate chemically
active oxygen molecules thought to contribute to aging and
chronic ailments such as cancer, heart disease and Alzheimer’s
disease.We just need to plan a healthy diet consisting of enough
amounts of superfoods that will help us maintain our weight, fight
disease, and live longer. Here are some of the superfoods which
can be very easily included in a daily diet.
Green TeaGreen tea is loaded with health benefits. Green tea is the only type
of tea that is not fermented, keeping the antioxidants in the green
tea very powerful. An antioxidant called epigallocatechin gallate
(EGCG) present in this green tea has been proven to be very
effective in lowering cholesterol levels and reducing the risk of
heart attacks and strokes. There is also evidence that green tea
increases metabolism that can promote weight loss, combined
with exercise and a healthy diet. Green tea contains fluoride;
it helps prevent tooth decay by killing the bacteria that causes
plaque. It is also a great source of Vitamin C, thus helping to
reduce stress and prevent flu. One of the main ingredients in
green tea is catechin, and studies performed at the National
Cancer Institute in Tokyo have shown that catechin use lowers
the incidence of cancer by more than 50 per cent if
consumed in sufficient quantities.Therefore drinking
just 2 to 3 cups a day can strongly boost the
immune system and thus help reduce the risk of
many dangerous health ailments.
Soy Soy and its products, such as soy milk, tofu, soychunks , soya
flour, soya nuts etc., is an excellent source of soy isoflavones
which may help to reduce the osteoporosis risk. In fact Soy
isoflavones have an oestrogen-like effect which helps to control
menopausal symptoms, and thus acts as a boon to women going
through the pre-menopausal phase. It helps to minimise hot
flushes and vaginal dryness in women. Several studies have
indicated that a regular intake of soy foods may help to prevent
hormone related cancers such as breast cancer, prostate cancer
and colon cancer. Soy is also a good source of lecithin and vitamin
E. These natural antioxidants prevent oxidation of LDL
cholesterol, leading to a reduced risk of any heart
disease. It can easily be included in our daily diet
by adding it in salads, vegetable curries, chapatis/
breads, dessert like cakes or can be had as soya milk.
Dark GreensGreen leafy vegetables are considered to be the major contributor
of vitamins and minerals in the diet. Dark green vegetables such
as kale, amaranth, collard greens, spinach, broccoli, asparagus
etc. are packed with vitamins A and C, iron, calcium and other
phytonutrients. They help in preventing night blindness, cataracts
and any kind of chronic fatigue. In fact certain dark green
vegetables like arugula, broccoli and kale supply phytochemicals
such as indoles that help stop cancer before it starts. Green leafy
vegetables like amaranth, spinach and mint are good sources of
folic acid. (100g = 120 - 140ug). Women of childbearing age who
may become pregnant and those in the first trimester of
pregnancy should consume adequate folic acid. This reduces the
risk of neural tube defects and anencephaly during foetal
development. Researchers of Harvard School have found that daily
consumption of leafy greens can cause a 23 per cent
reduction in coronary heart disease. These greens
also contribute to the fibre content of the diet. Fibre
helps to reduce constipation and diverticulosis. It is
advisable to include at least 50 grammes of leafy greens
daily in one’s diet.
BerryAnother excellent super food recommended by health experts is
the berry. This fruit is regarded as a gift of nature, as the wonder
fruit is full of antioxidants. A good source of vitamin C and folic
acid, it is known to have anti-cancer nutrients. In fact according to
the researchers at The United States Department of Agriculture
(USDA), blueberries are ranked as the number one antioxidant
fruit. Some studies suggest that blueberries not only strengthen
Dietician and Sports Nutritionist, Deepshikha Agarwal, offers somesound dietary advice for good health and a long life.
healthy living
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 35
our immune system, but may also guard against neurological
disorders, such as Alzheimer’s. They may also aid in protecting
eyesight and guarding against urinary tract infections. Cranberries
are also highly rated as a skin cleansing food as its moisture
content is 87 per cent, even though skin eruptions
may appear at first in some cases. If one has a
craving for sweets then he/she can replace the
calorie rich sweets with these low calorie hydrating
fruits having natural sugars.
OatsUnlike many other carbohydrates, oats – even the instant kind –
digest slowly, so they have little impact on your blood sugar. Oats
are not only low calorie grain but are also rich in various nutrients
like magnesium, potassium, zinc, selenium, protein etc. Oats
contain one of the best amino acid profiles of all grains. Oats,
oat bran, and oatmeal contain a specific type of fibre known as
beta-glucan. Oats, via their high fibre content, are already known
to help remove cholesterol from the digestive system that would
otherwise end up in the bloodstream. Therefore they indirectly
help to decrease the LDL cholesterol from oxidation and protects
us from any cardiovascular disease. Oats are also an excellent
source of magnesium, a mineral that acts as a
co-factor for enzymes involved in the body’s use of
glucose and insulin secretion. Therefore they can
be included in a diabetic diet very easily.
Olive oil Olive oil has healthy fat that increases satiety, taming your
appetite. Heart disease is the leading cause of death for both men
and women nowadays. Dietary olive oil protects the
endothelium, the lining of our blood vessels, keeping those
arteries clear so that our heart can get enough oxygen and
nutrients to keep pumping, thus help to maintain the blood
pressure and keep our heart disease free. Extra Virgin olive oil is
better than the other variety of olive oil because it contains more
polyphenols, antioxidants that help to keep your heart healthy. In
fact, olive oil’s protective function has a beneficial effect on ulcers
and gastritis. The anti-microbial activity of the polyphenols
of olive oil works against Helicobacter pylori, bacteria
responsible for the development of peptic ulcers and
gastric cancer. Therefore it is advisable to substitute
butter and other refined oils with olive oil to improve
gastrointestinal health. Olive oil is very well tolerated by
the stomach.
Yogurt Dietitians often refer to plain yogurt as the perfect food. With zero
carbohydrates and trans fat, it can stave off hunger by keeping
blood sugar levels steady. With 20 per cent calcium for
growing bones, it serves as very good medicine. Its enzymes
help to keep the body cool, and it is also a good healer. The
bacteria in curd can help digest food and thus, alleviate the
problem of stomach infection like inflammatory bowel disease
and H. pyloriinfection. Eating yogurt on a regular basis can help
you absorb the nutrients in other foods as well. One should try
including curds in every meal. It can be in any form like buttermilk,
salad dip, khadi, raita etc. Those who are lactose-intolerant can
consume yogurt, as bacteria present in it breaks
down the lactose before it enters your body.
Those suffering from vaginal infection have also
been found to have benefitted from yogurt.
AvocadosAvocados are the best fruit source of vitamin E, an antioxidant
that helps to prevent cellular damage by preventing the
formation of free radicals. The flesh of a ripe avocado soothes
sunburnt skin. Just cut the fruit in half and rub it gently over
the affected areas. Avocados are a good source of potassium
also, a mineral that helps regulate blood pressure. They are
higher in potassium than a medium banana. Although they are
fruits, avocados have a high fat content – almost 88 per cent
of their total calories – about 20 times as compared to other
fruits. A typical avocado contains 30 grammes of fat, but 20
per cent of these fats are health-promoting monounsaturated
fats, thus giving it distinct health benefits. One cup of avocado
has 23 per cent of the recommended daily value of folate.
Studies show that people who eat diets rich in folate have a
much lower incidence of heart disease than those
who don’t. The vitamin E, monounsaturated fats,
and glutathione in avocado are great for the
heart areas. They can be included in our daily
diet by adding them in preparations like salads,
dips, soups, and in garnishing non-vegetarian
dishes, or it can be had as whole fruit itself.
SalmonLean fish are always good alternatives for healthy meats in
your diet. However, salmon is extra special because it contains
Omega 3s. Omega-3 is beneficial in reducing inflammation in the
body, preventing cardiovascular disease, diabetes, some types
of cancers, slowing cognitive problems such as Alzheimer’s
disease. Canned salmon contains large amounts of
calcium and vitamin D (because fish bones are not
removed). Salmon is an excellent source of selenium
mineral that helps protect the body from damaging
effects of free radicals, which can weaken the cells
and leave them prone to infection and other diseases.
36 | air uganda | may – july 2010
I am working as hard as I can. I have been making 20 calls a day.
I have been working out for the last three years. I buy flowers
for my partner every month, but our relationship is far from
passionate. I have done 400 presentations for my business and
have not had a single sale yet. I can’t seem to cross to the next
level in my sport.
Does any of this sound familiar? Hard work, energy, blood, sweat, and tears – to deduce a few
of the payments people make in the pursuit of success from
the above list of complaints – doesn’t mean anything. It’s also
unfortunate that the majority of people only focus on what they do
rather than the results they’re getting. The results of what you put
in are what comprise your score card. What is on the score card
is all that matters.
Results are all that matters. You have either seen or experienced what would be classified as
unfair situations, such as the following examples:
A person working and trying hard to achieve a certain sales •
target, while another colleague cruises by with, seemingly, a
lot less effort.
Two people going to the gym – as an outsider, you would say •
that person A is working really hard in the gym compared to
person B; yet person B has the better results in 12 weeks.
Two students studying for their exams, one studying a lot •
more than the other; yet the one who seemingly studied less
gets the better grades.
It seems unfair. I used to say that. But that is the reality. What makes these so-called underdogs win? They do the right things needed to get the results. They do the
smart things that matter. Everything in life has a formula. Get
the formula right, and you get the right result. The results you
have in your life right now will tell you something about what you
are putting into it. Successful people have an orientation for the
outcome. Everything is based on results – not the resources spent
on something, not the time taken, not how much energy was put
into something, none of that. It is simply all about
the results.
What it’s all about?Wherever you are in your life is a result, whether you like
it or not. Your weight is a result. Your health is a result. Your
relationship status is a result. Your cash flow is a result, and your
net worth is a result.
Results, results, results – results are all that matter.
If any of the results in your life need changing, then you must
review what you are doing. As the famous saying goes, if you keep
on doing what you have always done, then you will keep on getting
what you have always gotten.
“Successful people give you results. Others will give you their
rationale.”
To change your financial results, you must change what you are
doing or how you are doing it. And you must do so now. To change
your sporting result, you need to change what you do or how you
are doing it. And now, some of you might say, “I’m not getting the
results I desire, and I’ve tried and tried and tried”.
There is no point banging your head against a brick wall wanting
to get to the other side.
Don’t try to rationalise why you are not getting the results. It’s
a waste of energy. Instead try another avenue; maybe there’s a
different path that another person who is achieving the result you
want is using, and maybe you could do the same. Chances are, if
he or she is achieving the desired result, so can you.
What you must ask yourself is, Do you want to be
mediocre or successful?
Do you want to
be forgotten or
remembered?
Do you want to live a
full life or one where you
constantly ask yourself,
“Could I have done that?”
A very successful person
always told me to be a
feature
“Successful people give you results. Others will give you their rationale.”
This is an excerpt from Kevin Abdulrahman’s book Winning The Game Of Life.
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 37
are the one calling the shots and, believe it or not, you will start
getting the results you want. You plan and then take action steps
to achieve the result within a certain time frame.
Here are three quick tips to steer you on the right track to achieve results.
Do what other successful people in your area of interest are 1.
doing. In other words, you cannot spend your time in cooking
classes if you want to be a top badminton player. You must
learn and play with the best on the badminton court.
Spend time to learn and become great at whatever you are 2.
choosing to excel in. Most people give up after a week or so
of trying things out. Successful people never stop learning in
order to one day become the best that they can be, as long
as they know that they are on the right track.
Look at the results you are achieving. If your results and your 3.
vision match, continue with the actions you’re taking. If they
don’t match, then ask yourself what changes need to be
made and take action.
feature
“results-based person.” Since then, I have taken on being results
orientated. Today, talk is cheap to me. Anyone can talk, and a lot
of people do a lot of talking. I have found that only a few people will
materialise what they talk about and, hence, I deal only with those
people in my day-to-day activities. I am more interested in results
than talk.
Results are also what I coach people on! You must develop and master the weapon of being results
orientated. Your result could mean achieving a certain ranking
in your business organisation. It could mean attaining certain
financial success or hitting certain targets at work. Or your result
could be winning the gold at the next Olympics. Getting results, for
you, could be having the ability to choose how to spend your days
without any worries, the ability to go to the beach and sip from
a coconut knowing your finances are of no concern. Your result
could be the ability to give the best to your family – your time. It
could be spending two full days of every week with the people you
love and care about the most; it could be the time you spend giving
to others.
To help you master the weapon of being results orientated, you
must understand the concept of living life by design, as opposed to
living life by default. The masses are living every day of their lives
by default, with no plan whatsoever, hoping that things will stack up
in their favour. Unfortunately, the majority of people think this way,
and hence, their end results are not what they’d
wished for.
When you live life by design (in other words, when you plan), you
have the results in mind and can move ahead, constantly tweaking
every step on the way if need be. When you live life by design, you
You can get Kevin Abdulrahman’s books and request for him to
speak / train your group by going on https://www.KevInspire.com.
38 | air uganda | may – july 2010
Today, virtually every tourist to Africa carries a camera and
it is possible to take acceptable photographs of wildlife
without a great deal of skill or effort, and at little risk to
one’s personal safety.
It was all very different 100 years ago. Cameras were bulky,
heavy and inconvenient to carry around. Negatives were made
on fragile glass plates, and some early wildlife and landscape
photographers took a portable darkroom around with them. Each
photograph had to be carefully thought out before pressing the
shutter since it was not possible to rattle off a sequence in quick
succession as one can these days with a motor-drive camera.
The exploits of famous 19th century explorers such as
Livingstone, Speke and Burton have remained well-known,
but there were other pioneers whose names have become
largely forgotten. One of these is Cherry Kearton, who, with a
fellow traveller and writer, James Barnes, crossed the African
continent from east to west, often on foot, beginning in April
1913 and ending with their return to London 14 months later.
Moreover, Kearton took a heavy cine camera with him on his
travels. Cine was in its infancy at the time, and cameras were
Across Africa with a Camera
hand-cranked, although in the depths of Africa such simplicity
was probably a good thing. Kearton had already travelled
extensively and was an accomplished photographer, so he was
well prepared for the epic journey.
The journey began at Mombasa, and the party travelled
through Uganda and the Congo before arriving at Matadi, on the
Congo River near the west coast. It was one of the first great
feats of African exploration that did not aim to discover new
lands or create records, nor were wild animals shot for trophies
for Cherry Kearton was also a pioneer conservationist.
Kearton’s journey was made for the express purpose of
making a film of Africa, its people and the wildlife as it really
existed, so that people in the west could see it for themselves,
rather than through the imagination of artists who often had
never been near the continent.
The safari began in earnest in Nairobi where Kearton and
Barnes recruited a large troop of African porters to carry their
equipment, and also the services of a young white hunter who
was well acquainted with much of the country on their planned
route.
history
Roger Barnard follows the journey of one of the first wildlife photographers, Cherry Kearton, on an epic trek nearly 100 years ago.
.
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 39
On 2 June 1913, they made their longest and hardest march –
22 miles without water – until they reached the Ewaso Nyiro river.
Cherry Kearton described the experience:
“It was like marching into a painting. To the north rose
mountain after mountain in fantastic form. In the first mile we
descended 900 feet. Buffalo and rhino spoor were plentiful, rock
rabbits abounded, but we saw no other living thing until in the
afternoon we sighted a troop of giraffe in the distance.”
A few days later they arrived at an area with an abundance of
wildlife. Elephant, rhino, giraffe, zebra, gazelle, leopard and lion
had all left traces that could be ‘read’ by an experienced tracker.
Cherry Kearton and his colleague quickly began to set up hides,
behind which they could wait and watch, to photograph the
unsuspecting animals when they came to drink at the waterholes.
In fact, for many days they had no success at all, and inside
their hiding places the daytime temperatures soared. But there
were other days when they were well repaid for their patience and
discomfort, and Kearton’s cameras were busy taking both movie
and still pictures.
There were moments of high excitement, such as when a pride
of lions assembled just a few feet from their flimsy grass shelter.
They spent an anxious night, with just one rifle between them,
listening to the roars of these beasts at close quarters, but
fortunately the animals did not trouble them.
Before leaving the waterholes Cherry Kearton captured a cine
sequence of a dozen giraffes drinking together – not a particularly
remarkable picture by today’s standards for cameras with long
telephoto lenses, but it was quite a coup in 1913. Giraffes are
easily startled, and the presence of a number of them caused
other, smaller animals to follow them, knowing that it must be
safe from predators.
Kearton had set his heart on filming buffalo, but he realised
that a flimsy grass-covered hide was totally unsuited for the task.
So he returned to Nairobi to purchase a galvanised water tank.
The ever-resourceful photographer planned to sink the tank into
the middle of a swamp, partly filling it with stones to weigh it
down. The plan was to get into the tank before he was spotted by
buffalo and, once in, he was safe to film them since the buffalo
could not easily cross the swamp to attack them. This ingenious
solution enabled Kearton to obtain some fine close-up shots of the
herd.
More weeks of travelling, at first by train and then by Lake
steamer, brought the expedition to Uganda, which they clearly
admired. Barnes wrote: “Uganda is a country that is bound to
impress even the most casual of visitors.”
After a stay at Kampala they headed west and, on Christmas
Day, 1913, reached a beautiful lake that Kearton calls ‘Llonga-
Llonga’: “one of those liquid gems that nature seems to have
placed in exactly the sort of setting to display its beauty – a little
sheet of light-blue crystal lying in the depths of what must have
been once an old volcanic crater.” The lake is difficult to find on
modern maps and presumably is one of the crater lakes to the
south of Fort Portal.
They got their first experience of the forests in the foothills
of the Ruwenzori Mountains. “One day,” wrote Kearton, “for the
space of 20 minutes the enshrouding clouds lifted, and we caught
a glimpse of the gleaming peaks way above the high, forest-
covered blue-grey hills. There lay, exposed for that fleeting space
of time, nearly 30 miles of gleaming ice and snow! Then the
clouds closed down and no one would have known that there was
a mountain within a thousand miles.”
After crossing the Semliki River, Kearton managed to obtain
some pictures of an enormous crocodile. From what must have
been a hastily constructed shelter the photographer saw the
monster rise out of the water, walking on all four legs with “atleast
two feet of space between its bulk and the sand”.
history
>>
40 | air uganda | may – july 2010
Kearton estimated this crocodile to be “atleast 30 feet in
length”, but one has to seriously question this since Nile
Crocodiles today reach a maximum of 16 feet.
Since food was becoming short, the expedition could not
stay long but continued westwards, entering the Congo where
they found some elephant tracks. Cherry Kearton and Barnes
climbed up into a tree near a waterhole and made a platform of
reeds on which they set up their film camera and prepared for
action.
A fine herd of elephants soon appeared, just as the pair were
attacked by thousands of safari ants. Despite being driven nearly
frantic by the ants, they had the presence of mind to keep
turning the camera handle and got some excellent pictures. As
soon as the animals had passed, however, Kearton and Barnes
threw caution to the winds and rushed to the waterhole where
they tore off their clothes and washed the ants off them.
Just beyond the frontier station of Irumu they reached the
edge of the great Equatorial forest. To the western travellers
it was an impressive sight and from here the mighty stands of
timber stretched right through to the west, as well as north and
south for 800 miles. The contrast with just a few miles to the
east – where there were few trees – was stark.
The dark forest made filming very difficult and time was
running out if they were to catch the monthly steamer at
Basoko. By this time Kearton and Barnes had been on the
march for nine months and were feeling the strain.
Part of the remaining journey was made by dug-out canoe
along the rivers that took the place of roads through the great
forest region. With the aid of African paddlers, when the going
was good up to 30 miles a day could be travelled.
They continued by canoe, perhaps driving their paddlers
rather too hard in their desire to reach the steamer in time, for
the men were on the verge of mutiny, whilst Barnes developed
a bad dose of fever. Finally, after paddling until midnight, they
reached the Barumba fort, a river station where the steamer
would be calling. There, the two exhausted men learned to their
relief that the steamer would be calling next morning. They had
won their race against time by just a few hours.
After boarding the steamer Cherry Kearton found that he
had lost 40 pounds since starting out from Mombasa. Barnes
was lighter than he had been at school. All the cabins were full
so they had to sleep on deck and thus endured a further 14
uncomfortable days on the river.
On reaching the Atlantic Ocean they transferred to an ocean-
going ship that took them back home to England. The most
precious part of the cargo – the 12,000 feet of film that they
had shot on the journey – was packed in wooden boxes that
were themselves stored in watertight steel cases. When they
got home they found that less than five per cent of the film
had been damaged, a remarkable achievement after so many
months in difficult tropical conditions.
That film would in due course be edited and shown to the
public in cinemas and halls up and down the country, allowing
hundreds of thousands of people to gain an insight into Africa
for the first time.
Kearton and Barnes also related their adventures in an
illustrated book: Through Central Africa from East to West which
was published in 1915 and from which the accompanying
photographs were taken. In the years that followed Kearton
made many more journeys overseas and his cine films were a
great hit with the public.
history
>>
.
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 41
The hand of the clock is ruthlessly striking wilderness areas off the face of the
earth, one by one. Scars leave cracks in the landscape and the earth greys with
the age of man. Islands of pristine wilderness are being ambushed by development
and before we can turn back, they will be tainted or totally lost, says Charles
Tumwesigye and Sandra Slater-Jones.
Mexico Welcomes Uganda to the 9th World Wilderness Congress
feature
Below: Crop raiding by mountain gorillas in Southern Bwindi, Uganda.
Pho
tos
© C
harles
Tum
wes
igye
& S
andr
a Sla
ter-
Jone
s
42 | air uganda | may – july 2010
Conservationists are working tirelessly to rescue wild areas
from being damaged to serve human needs. Protected
areas, as a result, are being secured globally but in
order to earn their keep they have to be altered in some way.
As an example, to sustain tourism in protected areas roads,
trails, buildings, and facilities are developed and, as a result,
the natural systems are often adversely impacted. The WILD
Foundation (an international organisation based in the US)
and its sister organisations in Africa and the UK promote the
importance of protecting areas in their most intact form, to
safeguard the “life support services” these areas provide (clean
water, air, balancing global climate, medicinal plants and much
more) while also preserving the spirit of untamed land. This type
of protected area is termed ‘wilderness’. The only form of human
intervention usually permitted in such areas is traditional resource
utilisation by indigenous residents – which must be historically and
ecologically justified – and scientific studies and recreation that
have no technological impacts. It is not only encouraged that new
wilderness areas are secured globally, but also that wilderness is
zoned into existing protected areas.
The 9th World Wilderness Congress – dubbed ‘WILD9’ – was
held in Merida in the Yucatan Province of Mexico in November
2009. Every four years the World Wilderness Congress brings
scientists, protected area managers, government officials and
leaders, artists, writers, photographers and film makers,
indigenous leaders, academics and the private sector together,
to find practical solutions to ensure that wilderness is recognised
and protected on a global scale. The wilderness network
developed at each Congress keeps track of and supports the
many outcomes and resolutions that are produced, and that
target practical conservation and community accomplishments
are followed through. Vance Martin, Director of the WILD
Foundation explains, “the Congress in
not an institution, but rather a global
community of people (professionals
and the public) who understand the
importance of wild nature to the health
and prosperity of human communities,
and want to act on its behalf.”
Charles Tumwesigye, Chief
Warden of Uganda’s Bwindi
Impenetrable National Park and
Mahinga Gorilla National Park, which
protects half of the world’s population of
mountain gorillas and other endangered
species, was a speaker at the World
Wilderness Congress in Mexico. Bwindi
Impenetrable National Park not only
keeps half of the world’s population of
mountain gorillas but is also a World
Heritage Site inscribed by UNESCO in
1994. The park is surrounded by a very high human population
of local communities. Mr. Tumwesigye participated in a pre-
congress Wilderness Seminar with protected area managers
from all over the globe where various wilderness policies and
strategies were discussed, as well as a Government Forum
where various issues and solutions of wilderness management
feature
>>
Left:
Charles
Tumwesigye
(left) and other
delegates at
the 9th world
wilderness
congress.
Below:
Merida,
state capital
of Yucatan
Province of
Mexico, was
the venue for
the 9th World
Wilderness
Congress.
Right:
Mayan ruins,
Yucatan provice
in Mexico.
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 43
were brainstormed and debated. Mr. Tumwesigye also addressed
the Native Lands and Wilderness Council, which met during
WILD9, about the importance of the relationship the Bwindi
Impenetrable National Park has developed with the surrounding
communities to improve its management as a wilderness area.
In this talk, Mr.Tumwesigye indicated that previously communities
in the southern part of the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park
were hostile to the park as a result of frequent crop raiding by
mountain gorillas and other wild animals from the park. The park
habituated a group of gorillas in this area for tourism but no
sooner had the group been habituated than it started spending
more than 50 per cent of its time outside the park on community
land, which increased the conflict and exposed the endangered
mountain gorillas to disease. With support from development
partners (especially African Wildlife Foundation – AWF), the park
convinced the local communities to sell part of their land next
to the Bwindi Impenetrable National Park where gorillas were
ranging outside the park for use as a ‘buffer zone” to the general
wilderness area of Bwindi. This 12 kilometres by 350 metres
‘buffer zone’ has been used for problem animal intervention
measures that are also aimed at improving community livelihood
through growing buffer and commercial crops that are not
palatable to the gorillas, and generate income for communities.
The outer boundary of the buffer zone has been planted with a live
fence of Mauritius thorny plant that prevents gorillas and other
wildlife from crossing into community land. This intervention has
significantly reduced crop raiding incidents in southern Bwindi by
over 80 per cent since 2006.
To further increase tourism benefits to communities around the
park, the communities (through their umbrella organisation,
Nkuringo Conservation Development Foundation – [NCDF]) were
linked to a partner to help build and manage a high end eco-lodge
for them. In addition, the national park authority gave the
communities “first priority” to purchase six of the eight available
gorilla permits for the Nkuringo gorilla family. That way, the
ommunities are able to market their lodge and attract clients
who want to track the mountain gorillas. The lodge has been
operational since August 2008 and the income from the lodge
has been used by NCDF to support community development
projects including schools and other livelihood projects (heifers,
piggery, apiary and a modern craft shop).
All these have contributed to livelihood improvement and the
once-suffering community that considered the national park
as a necessary evil is now a very happy community obtaining
a wide range of benefits from conservation. As a result,
the relationship between community and park has improved
dramatically. The Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA), charged with
managing all wildlife protected areas in Uganda, is now using the
transformation of communities in southern Bwindi as a model
for community engagement in protected area management.
Mr.Tumwesigye can now look back and sigh with relief that his
work of managing mountain gorillas and their wilderness habitat
has been made easy with local community participation.
Much gratitude to Flora and Fauna International and to
Vance Martin and The WILD Foundation for the support for Mr.
Tumwesigye to represent Uganda Wildlife Authority at the 9th
World Wilderness Congress.
feature
Conservationists are working tirelessly to rescue wild areas from being damaged to serve human needs
44 | air uganda | may – july 2010
Not so long ago, a trip to the zoo in many large cities
wouldn’t have been complete without a visit to the
Elephant House and a ride on one of these wonderful
creatures. At London Zoo great excitement greeted the arrival
in 1865 of Jumbo, a huge African bull weighing over six tonnes,
who gave rides and became a national favourite. Possibly his
name was Jambo, the Swahili word of greeting, but Jumbo he
became, and elephants have lived with it ever since.
Ironically, the public’s increasing awareness of the stress
caused to such intelligent and social animals when kept in
captivity has persuaded many zoos, including London Zoo, that
keeping them is no longer a humane option. The remaining
animals are now in controlled breeding programmes in freer
surroundings elsewhere.
All this has happened at a time when interest in elephants has
increased, largely thanks to excellent television documentaries.
Now that it’s not so easy to see live elephants at home, people
often prefer to take a long-haul flight to their natural habitats. And
so the legend on early explorers’ maps – ‘Here be elephants’ –
has regained some of its original truth.
‘Going on safari’ is no longer the preserve of wealthy adults.
Some African game parks are now actively encouraging families
with children of walking age to try a mini-safari to spot their
favourite animals. And if elephants don’t top everyone’s list before
they’ve actually seen a live one, it usually takes only one good
Here be Elephants
sighting of a family group with babies or a majestic lone tusker to
do the trick.
Of course, every ellie-fan knows that African elephants are
larger and have bigger ears than their Asian cousins whose
females don’t grow tusks. It is also true that the kind of elephant
experience you will have on each continent varies greatly. In
South-East Asia, elephants have been work animals for many
centuries, while almost all attempts to domesticate their African
relatives have failed. Ellie-fans often have strong views on the
subject. Some don’t mind seeing them trained, working and
comparatively tame if it means getting the opportunity to feed,
stroke or ride one, help with bath-time, or even being ‘given a lift’
by that versatile trunk – in which case they will head for Sri Lanka,
India or Thailand. Others prefer seeing them in the wild, so it has
to be an African safari.
When it comes to the chances of seeing African elephants,
several factors come into play, not least the drastic drop in
their numbers. At the time when London Zoo’s Jumbo left
his homeland, there were literally millions of his kind all over
sub-Saharan Africa, excluding only the true equatorial forests
and the driest southern parts. Even a century later there were
probably over two million of them. But by 1989, numbers had
crashed dangerously below the half-million mark, in spite of bans
on poaching and ivory sales. East Africa was the worst hit, with
only 16,000 elephants left in Kenya from its once mighty herds.
Kate Nivison gives some weighty advice on where to get the best sightings of everyone’s favourite animal.Photos by Kate Nivison
Above:
One of Africa’s
finest sights – a
family group on
the move in the
Maasai Mara.
nature & wildlife
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 45
Tanzania’s famous Serengeti and Selous national parks also lost a
similar proportion. Tanzania still has more elephants than Kenya,
but estimates vary.
With the numbers down, visitors can no longer expect to see
the magnificent spectacle of hundreds of elephants congregating
socially. Clan sizes are smaller, as indeed are the elephants
themselves since the average age now is younger, but family
groups led by a dignified matriarch and her relatives with their
young, of perhaps a dozen individuals, are still to be seen in
national parks such as Kenya’s Maasai Mara, Amboseli and
Tsavo where the visibility is good because the vegetation is fairly
open. The dry season offers the best sightings because the grass
is lower and the bush cover sparser. Also, elephants have to
congregate at rivers or waterholes to drink, so most camps are
within reach of such places.
Wardens realise that visitors would be disappointed if they didn’t
see elephants during their stay, and will try to make sure that they
do. Sometimes the process is helped by ‘collaring’. In the Samburu
in northern Kenya, Anastasia, the matriarch of the ‘Royal Family’ >>
clan has been fitted with a collar containing a SIM card that sends
out a text message every hour announcing her (and therefore her
family’s) whereabouts, and the same technique is being used on
lone bulls.
Rather different conditions are found in Botswana, which
actually has the most elephants (possibly 76,000). However,
they are scattered over vast areas, and game viewing is not as
commercially organised as in South Africa, where the Kruger
National Park is well in the lead. Fortunately the situation, both
for viewing and population numbers in southern Africa generally is
improving with the end of various wars. The Zambian herds in the
Luangwa, Kafue and Zambesi valleys are on the increase again
after severe decline, and South Africa is exporting elephants to
Mozambique.
One great place to see mature elephants roaming around is
the Victoria Falls area. They often cross between Zambia and
Zimbabwe by island-hopping and swimming across the Zambesi
well upstream of the Falls, and many family-run game lodges and
camps have been set up between Livingstone and the Caprivi Strip.
nature & wildlife
African elephants are larger and have bigger ears than their Asian cousins whose females don’t grow tusks
46 | air uganda | may – july 2010
Left:
Elephant-back
safaris are
very popular
in South east
Asia.
Below:
Parade at the
Elephant
Festival,
Surin,Thailand.
Pho
to ©
Kat
e N
ivis
on
Although the little town of Victoria Falls has grown a lot in recent
years, it’s not uncommon to see one or two mature females with
their young strolling across the roads near town, drinking by the
river, or even scratching their chins on the roof of a private car
full of wide-eyed passengers. The message is, don’t hoot – it can
sound like a challenge; don’t leave the car; then back off or move
on very slowly. If there are youngsters, be extra wary. No-one in
their right mind would try to feed them, but some still do, with dire
results. These generally placid females are accepted by the local
people and vice versa, but they are still wild, and may attract bulls
from elsewhere.
Sitting in a car being used as a back-scratcher by a wild
elephant is about as personal as most of us want to get. But for
even closer encounters of the not-so-wild kind, South-East Asia is
the place. In India, the elephant god Gamesh has been worshipped
for millennia and elephants were much used in royal and religious
ceremonials, so it is around temples and palaces that most
trained elephants now live. The ride up to the Amber Palace near
Jaipur in the swaying howdah of a patient giant in her best finery
including full face-paint is a never-to-be forgotten experience. But
then neither is encountering a procession of elephants on their
way to work along a road carrying their packed lunches of leaves
and sugar cane. Sadly the number of elephants in Asian cities is
declining because traffic pollution weakens their lungs, but a better
option is an elephant-back photo safari in the game reserves.
Sri Lanka definitely has some trump cards in the elephant
stakes. The ‘inland capital’ of Kandy has up to 50 elephants
who amble round the town with their mahouts collecting fodder
or clearing rubbish when they are not rehearsing for Asia’s
most spectacular festival, the Kandy Perahera. Every night for
almost two weeks, usually in August, increasing numbers of
brilliantly liveried elephants take part in wonderful torchlight
street processions accompanied by glittering troupes of dancers,
musicians and acrobats. On the last night, the Temple Tusker
himself bears the sacred relic of the Buddha’s tooth in a jewelled
casket. Being a religious festival, its actual date is decided annually
only in January according to moon phases and other auspicious
signs, so it isn’t really geared for mass tourism.
Some southern Sri Lankan resorts offer elephant-back safaris,
and so does the north of Thailand where there are forest work
camps around Chiang Mai in particular where you can see the
‘workers’ practising their skills at rolling and stacking logs – or
football. Getting very busy and commercialised now is the Elephant
Festival at Surin, north-east Thailand, (always held on the third
Saturday of November) where there are mock battles, tugs of war
and elephant polo.
The resorts of both Thailand and Sri Lanka may have young
elephants visiting the hotels, who often walk to work by splashing
along in the sea. One favourite is a mature female called Monica,
who specialises in birthdays and weddings at the beach hotels in
the Wadduwa area of south-west Sri Lanka. In her sequinned red
satin gown, she makes a wonderful bridesmaid/backdrop and gets
herself into every picture. The only way to top the sensation of
being picked up in the gentle coils of Monica’s trunk is to visit the
Elephant Orphanage at Pinnawella. Here you can watch the babies
being bottle-fed, then see over 50 elephants of all ages pushing
and squealing with glee as they charge down to the river for their
twice-daily bath, which is clearly as much fun for them as it is for
their delighted visitors.
>>
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 47
AIR UGANDA FLIGHT SCHEDULE
For any information contact your preferred Travel Agent or our Sales & Reservation Office on +256 (0) 412 165 555 in KAMPALA
ENTEBBE – NAIROBIFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 202
NAIROBI – ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
ENTEBBE – JUBAFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
JUBA – ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
ENTEBBE – ZANZIBARFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
ZANZIBAR – ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
ENTEBBE – DAR ES SALAAMFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
DAR ES SALAAM – ENTEBBE FLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
ENTEBBE – MOMBASAFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
MOMBASA – ENTEBBE
U7 20206:30 Hrs08:30 Hrs
07:40 Hrs09:40 Hrs
Monday – FridaySaturday
U7 204 18:30 Hrs 19:40 Hrs Daily
U7 203U7 203U7 205
08:15 Hrs10:15 Hrs20:20 Hrs
09:25 Hrs11:25 Hrs21:30 Hrs
Monday – FridaySaturday
U7 120U7 120
10:25 Hrs15:00 Hrs
11:25 Hrs16:00 Hrs
Monday – ThursdayFriday & Sunday
U7 120 12:15 Hrs 13:15 Hrs Saturday
U7 119U7 119
12:05 Hrs17:00 Hrs
13:05 Hrs18:00 Hrs
Monday – Thursday
U7 119 13:55 Hrs 14:55 Hrs
U7 340 14:00 Hrs 16:25 Hrs Tuesday & Thursday
U7 341 16:55 Hrs 19:30 Hrs Tuesday & Thursday
U7 320U7 320
10:45 Hrs15:30 Hrs
12:30 Hrs17:15 Hrs Sunday
Monday – Friday
U7 321U7 321
13:05 Hrs 14:50 Hrs19:35 Hrs
Monday – Friday17:50 Hrs
U7 340U7 340
14:00 Hrs09:30 Hrs
15:30 Hrs11:00 Hrs Sunday
Tuesday & Thursday
FLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCYU7 341U7 341
17:30 Hrs13:00 Hrs
19:30 Hrs15:00 Hrs Sunday
Tuesday & Thursday
ENTEBBE – KIGALIFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
KIGALI – ENTEBBEFLIGHT NUMBER DEPARTURE TIME ARRIVAL TIME FREQUENCY
U7 350U7 352
08:00 Hrs09:00 Hrs
07:45Hrs08:45 Hrs Saturday
Monday – Thursday
U7 351U7 353
08:15 Hrs09:15 Hrs
10:00 Hrs11:00 Hrs Saturday
Monday – Thursday
Sunday
Daily
Friday & SundaySaturday
11:55 Hrs SundayU7 340 09:30 Hrs
U7 341 12:25 Hrs 15:00 Hrs Sunday
U7 352 16:15 Hrs 16:15 Hrs Friday & Sunday
U7 353 16:30 Hrs 18:15 Hrs Friday & Sunday
48 | air uganda | may – july 2010
Knee to chest: Bend forward slightly. Clasp hands around the left knee and hug it to your chest. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Keeping hands around knee, slowly let it down. Alternate legs. Repeat 10 times.
Shoulder roll: Hunch shoulders forward, then upward, then backward, then downward, using a gentle, circular motion.
Shoulder stretch: Reach right hand over left shoulder. Place left hand behind right elbow and gently press elbow toward shoulder. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.
Arm curl: Start with arms held at a 90-degree angle: elbows down, hands out in front. Raise hands up to chest and back down, alternating hands. Do this exercise in 30-second intervals.
Forward flex: With both feet on the floor and stomach held in, slowly bend forward and walk your hands down the front of your legs towards your ankles. Hold the stretch for 15 seconds and slowly sit back up.
Overhead stretch: Raise both hands straight up over your head. With one hand, grasp the wrist of the opposite hand and gently pull to one side. Hold stretch for 15 seconds. Repeat on the other side.
Ankle circles: Lift feet off the floor, draw a circle with the toes, simultaneously moving one foot clockwise and the other foot counterclockwise. Reverse circles. Do each direction for 15 seconds. Repeat if desired.
Neck roll: With shoulders relaxed, drop ear to shoulder and gently roll neck forward and to the other side, holding each position about five seconds. Repeat five times.
Other Tips for a Comfortable Flight
For your own comfort try • and travel light.
Wear loose clothing and • elasticated stockings made of natural fibre.
Increase your normal • intake of water and only if need be, drink alcohol but in moderation.
Use moisturising cream to • keep your skin from drying out.
Take off shoes in the • plane to prevent your feet from swelling up or wear shoes that will cope with expanding ankles.
Avoid heavy meals during • the flight.
Short walks once every • two hours are excellent for circulation.
Try to touch your toes • when waiting in the aisle to stretch your hamstrings.
On arrival at your • destination, have a hot shower or a relaxing bath.
On arrival a quick jog, • brisk walk, or a vigorous scrub will help stimulate your circulation.
These gentle exercises, which you can carry out easily during your flight, will help blood circulation and reduce any tiredness or stiffness that may result from sitting in one place for several hours. Check with your doctor first if you have any health conditions which might be adversely affected by exercise.
Foot pumps:
Start with both heels on the
floor and point feet upward
as high as you can. Then
put both feet flat on the
floor. Then lift heels high,
keeping the balls of your feet
on the floor. Continue cycle
in 30-second intervals.
Knee lifts:
Lift leg with knees bent while
contracting your thigh muscles.
Alternate legs. Repeat 20 to 30
times for each leg.
HEALTHY TRAVELLING
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 49
HEALTHY TRAVELLING ROUTE MAP
50 | air uganda | may – july 2010
AIR UGANDA CONTACTS AND OFFICES
Kampala Sales Office:
Tel: +250 (0) 412 165 555 /
+256 (0) 312 165 555
Email: [email protected]
Fax: +256 (0) 414 258 267
Jubilee Insurance Centre, 1st Floor,
Podium Level,Plot 14 Parliment Avenue,
P. O. Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda.
Dar es Salaam Sales Office:
Tel: +255 (0) 222 133 331/5/6
+255 (0) 783 111 992
Email: [email protected]
c/o Holiday Africa Tours and Safaris
(Opp. Habib African Bank)
Indiragandhi Street,
P.O. Box 22636
Dar es Salaam, Tanzania.
Nairobi / Mombasa Sales Office:
Tel: +254 (0)20 313 933
Email: [email protected]
5th Floor, Jubilee Insurance Building,
Wabera Street, Nairobi, Kenya.
Zanzibar Sales Office:
Tel: +255 (0) 242 233 506/7
Email: [email protected]
Cine Afrique Cinema Malindi
PO Box 251, Zanzibar, Tanzania.
Juba Sales Office:
Tel: +256 (0) 477 153 912
Email: [email protected]
Hai Suk Street, (Opp. the Mosque)
Juba, Sudan.
Kigali Sales Office:
Tel: +250 (0) 252 577 926/
+250 (0) 252 577 928 /
+250 (0) 788 380 926
Email: [email protected]
Office No. 26 UTC (Union Trade
Centre) Building, Town Centre.
Kigali, Rwanda.
Head Office:
Tel: +256 (0) 414 258 262/4
+256 (0) 417 717 401
Email: [email protected]
Fax: +256 (0) 414 500 932
Meridiana Africa Airlines (U) Ltd
Plot 11/13, Lower Kololo Terrace
P.O.Box 36591, Kampala, Uganda.
PLEASE NOTE :
After working hours on
weekdays (17:45hrs - 21:00hrs),
Saturday (14:00hrs - 21:00hrs)
and Sunday (07:30hrs - 21:00hrs)
For assistance please call our Entebbe
ticketing office on
Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485
+256 (0) 417 717 222
Entebbe International Airport
(Ticketing Office):
Tel: +256 (0) 414 321 485
+256 (0) 417 717 222
Email:[email protected]
2nd Floor, Passenger Terminal
Building, Entebbe, Uganda.
may – july 2010 | air uganda | 51
LandUganda is a compact country, with an area of 236,580 square kilometres – roughly the size of Great Britain.
ClimateAlthough situated on the equator, Uganda’s relatively high altitude tempers the heat, and humidity is generally low. Throughout the year sunshine averages about 6 to 10 hours a day. There are two rainy seasons: the main long rains, which start late in February and end in April, and the short rains, which start in October and run until about the middle of December. The region around Lake Victoria, however, receives rain at almost any time of the year.
TopographyIt is located on the equator, within the eastern plateau region of the African continent and between the eastern and western ridges of the Great Rift Valley. Near the borders several mountain masses stand out strikingly from the plateaux.
EconomyUganda is blessed with fertile soils that support a wide variety of food and export crops, both annual and perennial. Agriculture is the dominant sector of Uganda’s economy. The major traditional export crops are coffee, cotton, tea, horticulture, tobacco and sugar cane, while groundnuts, maize, beans, sorghum and millet have emerged in recent years as cash crops for the peasant farmers.
LanguageEnglish is the official language and is also the medium of instruction in Uganda’s education system, from primary school up to university level. Swahili is also spoken. There are some 30 indigenous languages spoken in the rural areas. The most common of these are Luganda and Luo.
Electric supplyAll installations are of British standard and appliances should be fitted with the square, three-pin plugs of British specifications. The voltage is 240 volts, 50 Hz for domestic use. The voltage fluctuates continually, however, and proper surge protectors are advisable for any expensive equipment.
TimeUganda is three hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). Timeremains constant throughout the year.
PeopleThe people are warm, friendly, and full of humour. They are anxious to make friends with visitors and are continually asking guests whether they are comfortable and enjoying themselves. A large number of people speak English.
ExcursionsUganda is beginning to develop an excellent tourist infrastructure, with first-rate roads and communication facilities. Uganda’s national game, forest and recreational parks are indeed some of the spectacular showpieces Africa has to offer. They do have regulations regarding off-the-road driving, game watching, and so on, which are clearly stated at the entrance gates of parks or on leaflets supplied by the tourist offices. Mountaineering safaris to the Ruwenzori Mountains in the western Rift Valley are now becoming a favourite Ugandan expedition. Similar safaris can also be organised to climb Mount Elgon in the east, sharing the border with Kenya.
HotelsThere are international-standard hotels in Entebbe, Kampala and Jinja, as well as in many of the smaller towns. Camping, rustic bush camps and guest houses are also available. The Kampala Sheraton, the Serena Kampala, the Grand Imperial, and the Nile Hotel, all in the national’s capital are by the best. There are many other less expensive, but quite nice hotels in the city. Outside Kampala, most towns also have a variety of moderately priced and budget hotels.
Banking hoursThere is a wide range of banks in Uganda, particularly in Kampala. Their hours are generally from 0830 to 1400 on weekdays, and Saturdays from 0830 to 1200. Forex bureaux keep longer hours – 0900 to 1700 on weekdays and 0900 to 1300 on Saturdays. ATMs are available in the larger cities.
CommunicationsTelephone, Telex, fax and airmail services connect Kampala to all parts of the world. Services are available at the General Post Office and its many branches, as well as in the main hotels. International direct dialling is available and now there are a number of Internet cafes.
Medical servicesUganda has good health services, with some good government and private hospitals and clinics in the major cities. Air rescue services are available.
CurrencyUganda Shilling (UGX). Notes are in denominations of UGX 50,000, 20,000, 10,000, 5,000 and 1,000. Coins are in denominations of UGX 500, 200, 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. You can change money at banks and hotels. Although the forex bureaux usually have better exchange rates.
Credit cardsInternational credit cards are accepted in major hotels and shops.
Working hoursShops and businesses are generally open from 0830 to 1730 on weekdays, with a lunch break between 1300 and 1400. Some businesses are open on Saturday, at least until midday. Small, local shops or kiosks on the side of many roads are generally open much later, until about 2130 and on weekends and holidays as well; they stock basic food and household items.
Public Holidays
20101 January New Year’s Day26 January Liberation Day8 March International Women’s Day2 April Good Friday5 April Easter Monday1 May Labour Day3 June Martyrs’ Day9 June National Heroes’ Day11 September Eid al-Fitr (End of Ramadan)9 October Independence Day17 November Eid al-Adha (Feast of the Sacrifice)25 December Christmas Day26 December Boxing Day
Note:The two Muslim holidays, Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha are timed according to local sightings of various phases of the moon and the dates given above are approximate.
CustomsBesides personal effects, a visitor may import duty-free spirits (including liquors) or wine up to one litre, perfume and toilet water up to half a litre and 270 grammes of tobacco or 200 cigarettes. Other imported items, not exceeding US$100 may be brought in duty free and without an import licence, provided they are not prohibited or restricted goods, are for personal use, and are not for resale.
Note: A special permit is required to export game trophies.
Health requirementsVisitors from areas infected with yellow fever and cholera required certificates on inoculation. All visitors are advised to take an antimalarial prophylactic beginning two weeks before their arrival and continuing for six weeks after their departure. A gamma globulin injection provides some protection against possible infection by hepatitis and is well worth taking.
Visa and immigration requirementsVisa applications may be obtained at Uganda diplomatic missions. Two photographs are required for visas, which are usually issued within 24 hours. Visas are also available at the country’s entry points. Check with the Uganda diplomatic mission in your country if visa is required as some countries are exempted.
Taxi servicesTaxis are immediately available at Entebbe International Airport. They can also be found outside most hotels in Kampala and at most of the country’s major centres. All don’t have meters, so make sure the fare is negotiated in advance.
Car rentalSeveral firms operate car hire services in Kampala. Vehicles may be hired with or without driver. For trips outside the city it is possible to hire insured cars appropriate for the trip (a four-wheel-drive vehicle with a driver-translator is recommended).
Entebbe International AirportThe main point of entry is Entebbe International Airport, about a 30-minute drive south of the capital, Kampala. Although modest, the modern airport does provide automated passenger facilities, currency exchange, postal services, banking facilities, telephoned, duty-free shops, gift shops and a restaurant and bar.
SecurityThe same rules apply for Kampala as for almost any city anywhere.Becareful and take the usual precautions to safeguard yourself and your belongings. Do not leave valuables in your car. Walking at night in all major centres is reasonably safe.
TIPS FOR THE TRAVELLER IN UGANDA
52 | air uganda | may – july 2010
2
23
7
26
69
56 7 2
9
8
3 725
4 16
8
59 1 6
9 238
6
26
27
29
28
24
25
232221
20
19
161514
13
12
11
9
7 81 2 3 54 6
10
17 18
Clues Across
1. Sore pooch turns to foretell the future (9)
9. Regarding in fabled Old King for mixed race (6)
10. Stand to this and get noticed (9)
11. Set on fire in sign items. (6)
12. There’s many of these blocks in this magazine! (9)
13. Bent and yellow, with a dangerous skin! (6)
17. Portray within a tractor (3)
19. Music that could make angel remit charm (10, 5)
20. Move pit and earn a gratuity (3)
21. One that gets into the Pop Charts (6)
25. Even a rough male could be called this! (9)
26. Shows contempt for mixed soul Financial Times (6)
27. You could find one on the beach, or evil fears
stirred (4, 5)
28. Two girls sing these at Festive time (6)
29. Offering to make less hard? (9)
Clues Down
2. Beat in race within trout ranges (6)
3. A spore reforms into musicals (6)
4. Provides for felines? (6)
5. Partner-to-be with expectations? (11, 4)
6. A running order favouring little weight (9)
7. Suitable game for a loner? (9)
8. A meeting of minds? (9)
14. New kid on the block has novel dial (5, 4)
15. Gout in car produces historic battle (9)
16. Speak low? (5, 4)
17. G.I. on this creature is huge (3)
18. A gentle knock from the faucet (3)
22. Be there and take notice (6)
23. Restore and go (6)
24. Vet ran in confusion for a drink here (6)
CROSSWORD PUZZLE & SUDOKU
Place a number from 1 to 9
in every empty cell so that
each row, each column and
each 3x3 box contains all the
numbers from 1 to 9. No
number can appear twice in a
row, column or 3x3 box.
Do not guess – you can work
it out by a process of
elimination.
Crossword
Answers across1. Horoscope; 9. Creole; 10. Attention; 11. Ignite; 12. Paragraph; 13. Banana; 17. Act; 19. Regimental march; 20. Tip; 21. Single; 25. Gentleman; 26. Flouts; 27. Life saver; 28. Carols; 29. Tendering
Answers down2. Outran; 3. Operas; 4. Caters; 5. Prospective wife; 6. Programme; 7. Solitaire; 8. Telepathy; 14. Fresh face; 15. Agincourt; 16. Small talk; 17. Ant; 18. Tap; 22. Attend; 23. Repair; 24. Tavern
Sudoku
LAKE VICTORIA SERENAR E S O R T
A WORLD AWAY FROM THE CITYJust 15 Kilometres from Kampala and 35 Kilometres from Entebbe, on the shores of lake victoria, rests a
resort of ultimate beauty, tranquility and peace. This newest addition to the Serena family is the perfect resort to unwind and escape the stresses of city life.
PO Box 37761, Kampala, Uganda, Lweza-Kigo road, Off Entebbe road or Call +256 41 7121000, Fax +256 41 7121550 e-mail: [email protected]
The central lounge and reception The rooms and suites
Maisha Mind Body and Spirit Spa The pool and garden view
C
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CM
MY
CY
CMY
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A4_ad.pdf 4/29/10 9:26:37 AM
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