ARCT'ALG ALG - A3 brochure.pdf · visi A CR Te available enery enables cells to reactivate teir...

ARCT'ALG®

EpidErmal protEction

hydration

regeneration

Soothing effect

dErmic rEvitalization regeneration

firming effect

anti-aging

cryoprotEction

Arctic peptide: natural synthesis from an alga

Oct. Nov. Dec. Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May June July Aug. Sep.

Fre

sh a

lgae

µm

ol/g

EXSYMOL S.A.M. - 4 avenue Albert II - MC 98000 MONACOTél. : +377 92 05 66 77 - Fax : +377 92 05 25 02 - mail : [email protected] - www.exsymol.com

arctic pEptidE: adaptivE stratEgy for survival

chondrUS criSPUS: red alga

Cold induces a general metabolism slowdown in every living organism. As a result, in arctic regions, various defensive strategies have been developed in order to resist these extreme conditions.

Exsymol has identif ied Chondrus crispus, a red alga that is capable of surviving under these extreme conditions by accumulating several metabolites.

“Over wintered” Chondrus crispus is therefore characterized by high amounts of polysaccharides (carrageenans), f loridosides (combination of glycerol and galactose), taurine and by an especially high concentration of a peptide: L-citrullyl-L-arginine.

All these metabolites are involved in the preservation of the alga’s integrity when exposed to extreme conditions. The alga also consumes these metabolites in order to stimulate its regeneration and growth during spring.

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Anti-dehydrAtion And skin regenerAtionSkin has developed different strategies to limit water loss. Among these strategies, some are mechanical such as the lipidic f ilm, the epidermal tight junctions, and some are biological such as keratinocytes proliferation or the natural moisturizing factors (NMF) whose osmotic properties are able to attract and retain water.Recent studies have shown that the mechanisms responsible for maintaining an optimal skin hydration under stress highly rely on the skin regenerative properties. Skin protection and regeneration are therefore mandatory to maintain an optimal skin hydration.

Typical zone of proliferation of this red algae, along

the rocky coasts of Atlantic.

ArCt’ALg: eCoresponsibLe nAturAL synthesis

The alga is sampled from nature and isolated in order to obtain a unialgal biomass of the highest purity.

The alga is then exposed to very low temperature and luminosity for a long period of time before the harvest. This treatment induces the natural production of citrullyl-arginine and the resulting “over-wintered” Chondrus crispus is extremely rich in arctic natural peptide.

The whole process of harvest and biosynthesis of the arctic peptide is conducted in order to maintain a sustainable development.

CitruLLyL-Arginine: A nAturAL ArCtiC peptide

This arctic peptide is the only metabolite the alga does accumulate, and its concentration rises as the conditions are becoming more and more extreme (drop in temperature, shorter light exposure and rise of nitrate salts).By March, the arctic peptide concentration can reach up to 10% of the alga’s dry weight. It therefore appears as a critical factor for the alga survival since it is used as a stock of energy for its proliferation.

Through this induced natural adaptive process, also known as elicitation, Exsymol has foreseen an innovative way to produce natural peptides.

Figure 1 – Schematic representation of the repartition of few of the components involved in skin barrier function

AQUAPORIN 3

FILAGGRIN

TRANSGLUTAMINASE-1

EP

IDE

RM

IS

LIV

ING

CE

LLS

ST

RA

TU

M C

OR

NE

UM

ArCtiC peptide And CosmetiC benefits

The arctic peptide is at the same time a component of the NMF (L-citrulline) and an energy storage compound (L-arginine):

- L-citrulline is a constituent of the NMF and reinforces the skin barrier function

- L-arginine is a source of energy capable of optimizing different metabolic reactions such as regeneration and lipolysis. It also has anti-glycation properties.

H2N

HN

NH2O

NH

OH

NH

HN NH2

O

O

L-arginine L-citrulline

Citrullyl-L-arginine


COSMETIC APPLICATIONS

SkIN bENEFITS

According to the biological properties of the active, evidenced by our scientific validated tests,

- ARCT’ALG can be applied for FACE CARE & BODY CARE - in products for moisturization, skin protection, skin regeneration... - and for all types of skins.

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INCI Name: CHRONDRUS CRISPUS eXTRaCT

ArCt'ALg®

ArCt’ALg is an original and standardized red alga (Chondrus crispus) extract. Cultivated in an arctic biotope, this alga synthesizes and accumulates a natural arctic peptide that has many cosmetic benefits as it is a constituent of the NMF and a source of arginine.

According to our scientific tests, ARCT'ALG brings major benefits, to all types of formulation, for - skin protection (hydration, thermo-protection…), - and skin regeneration (energy production, cytostimulation…)

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ALG

®

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ALG

®

arct'algbenefits of a naturally-induced peptide

In partnership with experts of algae cultivation,

we have transcended Chondrus crispus culture.

Our standardized and innovative extraction

process has generated a breathtaking revealer of

beauty based on Chondrus crispus actives.

Innovative and unique process to

produce a natural peptide.

Other regular Chondrus crispus extracts only

contains traces of cit-arg peptide.

Preserves biodiversitY

avoid over extraction

Green and innovative extraction

Extraction of all accumulated actives using expert technologies.

arct’alg sustainable process

ecoresPonsibLe ProdUction oF tHe arctic PePtide

Unialgal selection

Cultivation in water tanks for controlled conditions

Exposure to an arctic biotope forpeptide elicitation

Harvest of the algae at the peak concentration of arctic peptide

13% Floridosides

44% Mineral salts (calcium, magnesium...)

7% ARCTiC pepTide (cit-arg)

2% Citrulline

2% Taurine

0.5% Arginine

ARCT’ALG

ARCT’ALG improves an adaptive processing of filaggrin precursor in response to barrier disruption.

ARCT’ALG prevents extensive water evaporation and thus maintains (or rapidly restores) water circulation within the epidermis.

60

65

70

75

55

55.5

6.57

7.58

Thic

knes

s (µ

m)

6

Transglutaminase-1 is an enzyme able to create crosslinks between proteins of the corneocytes envelope and is also a key marker of the stratum corneum terminal differentiation. Unstressed skin is characterised by a thin staining.

24 hours after exposure to acetone, transglutaminase-1 staining (intensity and thickness) is higher.

Barrier function is still under repair

The treatment with ARCT’ALG allowed to recover a similar transglutaminase-1 staining to control.

Repaired and differentiated skin

Aq

uA

poR

in-3

Aquaporin-3 protein creates transmembrane pores that enable water transport across cell membranes, thus facilitating hydration of the basal and suprabasal living layers of the epidermis.

3 hours after exposure to acetone, aquaporin-3 staining (intensity) is strongly decreased.

Limitation of water fluxes Prevention of extensive water loss

The treatment with ARCT’ALG preserved a similar aquaporin-3 staining to the control.

Normal skin waterflow

ARCT’ALG improves skin condition (dehydration limitation), which is favorable to accelerated skin barrier recovery.

0

2

45

78

Control Acetone ARCT' ALG 1%

3

1

6

0

1

3

4

5

6

2

In order to assess ARCT’ALG’s protective and regenerative abilities, human skin explants were exposed to acetone which leads to a disruption of the skin barrier function and to a strong dehydration. This method was reported to induce corneocyte disorganisation and surface lipid removal leading to increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL).This model system, mimics surface lipids’ decrease associated with skin aging and seasonal stress (winter xerosis).

We have determined the benefits from topical application of ARCT’ALG (1%), based on an histological study showing a sequence of early and late events triggered by epidermal disruption with acetone.

Filaggrin is a multi-functional protein playing a key role in epidermal hydration and barrier function. It is a precursor of free amino-acid part of the NMF in the stratum corneum.

3 hours after exposure to acetone, filaggrin staining (intensity and thickness) is decreased as compared to control.

Barrier function is compromised

The treatment with ARCT’ALG preserved a similar filaggrin staining to the control.

normal skin nMF protection

FiLA

GG

Rin

TRA

nsG

LuTA

Min

Ase

-1K

i67

(nu

CLe

AR

An

TiG

en)

Ki67 is a specific marker of keratinocyte proliferation. The epidermis is characterised by a permanent renewal.

24 hours after exposure to acetone, Ki67 staining is higher.

Barrier function is still under repair

The treatment with ARCT’ALG allowed to recover a similar Ki67 staining to control.

normal epidermis renewal

Complete recovery

Complete recovery

Normal basal expression

normal basal proliferation

+ acetone

ARCT’ALGoptimizesregeneration

ARCT’ALGpreserveshydration

Inte

nsity

(a.u

.)In

tens

ity (a

.u.)

Pro

lifer

ativ

e ce

lls /

bas

al la

yer c

ell (

%)


Control

Control

Control + acetone

+ acetone

+ acetone + acetone + ARCT’ALG

+ acetone + ARCT’ALG

+ acetone + ARCT’ALG

+ acetone (equivalent to aged skin and seasonal stress)

Control (hydrated skin)

Hydration and barrier function



Clinicaltest

TeW

L H

ydR

ATio

n

ARCT’ALG shows unique capacities for protection and repairing of the epidermis, basically due to the presence of the arctic peptide citrullyl-arginine (as a source of energy, and detoxyfier).This peptide, precursor derivative of arginine, is also a regulating agent in skin re-epithelialization (healing).

skin epidermal protection and repair

SkincryoprotectionCold induces metabolism slow down and a decrease in activity (collagen production). ARCT'ALG is able to protect skin cells against cold.



Realized under dermatological control, a clinical trial was performed on 35 women aged 30 to 60. The volunteers received a treatment with ARCT'ALG (1%) applied twice a day on the face for 28 days.

Tewameter (TM300) evaluation:

ARCT'ALG

placebo

+18%

+0,5%

Improvement of trans epidermal water loss (%)0 5 10 15 20

ARCT'ALG +40%

Improvement of skin hydration (%)

0 20 40 60 80

+60%14 days28 days

Dermatologist evaluation:

ARCT'ALG achieved 100% volunteers satisfaction.

Control Cold shockCold shock +ARCT’ALG

(2.5%)

Cold shock +ARCT’ALG

(5%)

0

25

50

75

100

125

Col

lage

n pr

oduc

tion

(% o

f con

trol)

+41%0

25

50

75

100

125

Met

abol

ism

activ

ity(%

of c

ontro

l)

+35%+17%

39%

pro

tect

ion

77%

pro

tect

ion

HS

P70

exp

ress

ion

(col

d sh

ock

prot

eins

)

A treatment with ARCT'ALG enables cells to recovery their optimal activity.

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MechanisM: The arctic peptide is a source of arginine and a precursor for collagen production.

DERmAL REViTALizATiOn

ARCT'ALG

eneRGizinG meTABoLiC ACTiviTy CoLLAGen

Pro collagen I production study (NHDF 17 years) after 14 hours of treatment with ARCT'ALG in aged medium (1% SVF).

Metabolic activity study on cells (MTT test - NHDF) after 14 hours of treatment with ARCT'ALG in aged medium (1% SVF).

CLiniCAL TEsT

sK

in A

pp

eA

RA

nC

e

pR

imo

s e

vA

Lu

AT

ion

Control ARCT' ALG 2.5%

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

% o

f met

abol

ic a

ctiv

ity

/ con

trol

Control Arctic peptide 0.5%

0

30

60

90

120

150

% o

f AT

P p

rodu

ctio

n/ c

ontr

ol

ATP production study on a fibloblast culture.

Control ARCT-ALG 2.5%

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

% o

f AT

P p

rodu

ctio

n/ c

ontr

ol

imA

Ge

vis

iA C

R

The available energy enables cells to reactivate their metabolisms for a rejuvenative process.

0

50

100

150

200

IL-1

(pg

/mL)

UVB UVB + hydrocortisone

1%

AnTi AGesAnTi - GLyCATion

Measure of proteins carbonylation induced by ROS (H2O2)

AnTi - oxidAnT

0

20

40

60

80

100

H2O230 mM

H2O2 + ARCT' ALG

1%

% o

f car

bony

lised

pro

tein

s

-89%

0

20

40

60

80

100

Fructose 2,27 M

Fructose + ARCT' ALG

2.3%

% o

f car

bony

lised

pro

tein

s

Measure of proteins carbonylation (eGFP) induced by a sugar (fructose) - 7 days of incubation.

--88%

0

20

40

60

80

100

MGO10 mM

MGO + ARCT' ALG

2.3%

% o

f car

bony

lised

pro

tein

s

Measure of proteins carbonylation (eGFP) induced by a glycotoxin (MGO) - 3 days of incubation.

-70%

UVB + ARCT' ALG

1%

UVB + chondrus

crispus 1%

Reconstructed epidermis exposed to U.V.

ARCT'ALG has a soothing effect equivalent to hydrocortisone, limitating the inflamm'aging process.

Regular Chondrus crispus extract does not offer this soothing effect.

AnTi-sTREss pROpERTiEsAnTi - inFLAmmAToRy

ARCT'ALG has demonstrated its efficacy against the oxidative cascade. It does block the by-products of glycation which are now reconized as a major source of skin premature aging.

Each cell's metabolism is rised and enables the production of proteins.

Among the produced proteins, each cell produces more collagen for a plumping effect.

+35% +10%


Realized under dermatological control, a clinical trial was performed on 35 women aged 30 to 60. The volunteers received a treatment with ARCT'ALG (1%) applied twice a day on the face for 28 days.

soFTness+15%

0 10 20 30

+20%14 days28 days

LuminosiTy+24%

0 10 20 30 40

+38%14 days28 days

RAdiAnCe+30%

0 15 30 45 60

+40%14 days28 days

GeneRAL AppeARAnCe+29%

0 15 30 45 60

+43%14 days28 days

before Afterbefore

After before After

Wrinkle reduction : -11.5%Roughness : -14%

+35%

phYsiCO-ChEmiCAL ChARACTERisTiCs


AnALYTiCAL COmpOsiTiOn

L-citrullyl-L-arginine* 0.5% Floridosides 0.9% Taurine 0.15% Preservatives sqf 100%

pREsERVATiVEsDifferent preservative systems can be studied in order to fit with your requirements. Please contact us for additional details about the available versions.

TOLERAnCE sTuDYARCT’ALG is perfectly tolerated. Tolerance and toxicity studies were performed using both in vitro (cell culture and reconstructed epidermis) and in vivo (human volunteers) methods.

FORmuLATiOn Advised doses ≥ 0.5%ARCT’ALG is not temperature sensitive.

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AVAiLABiLiTY ARCT’ALG is available in 1, 5 and 30 kg drums.

Limpid to slightly opalescent, colorless to yellowish liquid pH ≈ 5.5Density at 20°C ≈ 1.0Miscible with waterNot miscible with concentrated alcohols.

TEChniCAL ChARACTERisTiCs

EXSYMOL S.A.M. - 4 avenue Albert II - MC 98000 MONACOTél. : +377 92 05 66 77 - Fax : +377 92 05 25 02

E-mail : [email protected] - Internet : http://www.exsymol.com

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