AQUA COMPOSITA From Hugh Plat‘s Delightes for Ladies, 1609
Transcript of AQUA COMPOSITA From Hugh Plat‘s Delightes for Ladies, 1609
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AQUA COMPOSITA
From Hugh Plat‘s Delightes for Ladies, 1609
D. Steeuens Aqua Composita
Take a gallo of Gascoign wine, of ginger, galingale, cinnamon, nutmegs & graines,
Annis seeds, Fennell seeds, and carroway seeds, of each a dram; of sage, mints, red
roses, thyme, pellitory, rosemary, wild thyme, camomil, lavender, of each a handfull,
bray the spices small, and bruise the herbs, letting them macerate 12. house, stirring it
now & then, then distill by a limbecke of pewter keeping the first cleare water that
commeth, by it selfe, and so likewise the second. You shall draw much about a pinte
of the better sort from euerie gallon of wine.
- Sir Hugh Plat, Delightes for Ladies, first published in 1609. Originally printed by
Humfrey Lownes, London; reprinted by Crosby Lockwood & Son Ltd, London,
1948, with introductions by G.E. Fussell and Kathleen Rosemary Fussell. Page
59.
My Redaction
For one gallon of Gascoigne (Gascony) wine:
One dram of each:
Ginger
Galingale
Cinnamon
Nutmegs (seed and ground?)
Anise seed
Fennel seed
Carroway seed
A handful of each:
Sage
Mints
Red roses
Thyme
Pellitory (from Shiphard Farm, Australia)
Rosemary (from my garden)
Wild thyme
Camomile
Wild lavender (made do with lavender from my garden)
Bray the spices small – bruise/tear them into small pieces. And bruise the herbs (as with
mortar and pestle). Put herbs in wine for 12 hours to macerate (soften or separate into
parts by steeping in a liquid), stirring now and then. Distill, keeping the first and second
clear ―water‖ or liquid. Expected yield: a pint for every gallon of wine.
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1 dram = .0625 ounces, or 27.34375 grains
Adaptations: I made one quarter of the recipe. As distilling is illegal, I was going to
have to macerate herbs and spices in already-distilled brandy. I expect that macerating it
first and then distilling would produce a somewhat different flavor, something both
lighter and more refined. I looked for brandy made from Gascony wine. I found
Gascony in France is still making lovely white wines, and that brandy made from them is
known as Armagnac. I can‘t vouch for the quality of the Armagnac I purchased. It was
golden, not clear as required in the recipe.
I had some spice decisions to make:
I could get galingale from a good Asian grocery.
I found two herbs touted as Pellitory. In his World Spice Plants (p. 39), Johannes
Seiderman claims anacyclus pyrethrum is the Pellitory used by Romans, and that one gets
oil from the root that has a hot flavor and is not toxic. I couldn‘t find a place to purchase
this, nor find a source for the plant. I was able to obtain Parietaria officinalis, or Pellitory
of the Wall, from Shiphards Herb Farm in Australia. Shiphards specializes in medieval
herbs.
Red roses could be flower petal or rose hips. I determined to use rosewater made from
flower petals because I thought the flavor would be nicer.
Medicinally the recipe gives no guidance as to its use; anecdotally, I am told aqua
compositemakes a good stomach settler or anti-nausea medicine if a few drops are added
to a glass of water. Since the recipe doesn‘t give any hint as to its use, besides as a base
for other beverages, there is no way to know what the author or Mr. Plat intended it to be
used for.
In an attempt to guess at its purpose, I used this recipe for analysis in my Winter
University class on Galen‘s medicine. I had to go as far afield as Discorides (a
contemporary of Galen‘s) to get exact references to some of the various herbs, but it
seems clear, given the very rudimentary understanding I have of humoural medicine, that
this beverage is intended to warm and dry the stomach. (Please see chart of herbs at end).
Ingredients History The websites used for ingredient histories are listed at the end of the document with
Sources. Their urls are generally self-explanatory. Some sources are referenced in the
individual ingredient texts below.
Anise Seed
From the family Umbelliferae, Pimpinella anisum is also known as Aniseseed,
Sweet Cumin, Annissamen, Anise Cultivé, or in Spanish Anís, or Pericón, though the
latter is actually Mexican marigold, which has a peculiar aniselike aroma. Star anise is
Illicium verum. An annual growing to two to four feet, with feathery green leaflets, anise
puts down a long taproot and produces small white and yellow flowers as well as a fruit
that, when dried out, is referred to as aniseed. The seed-that-is-really-fruit is grey-green
or greenish-brown when ripe.
Anise may have first come from Asia, but it has since spread to Europe, Northern
Africa, the Middle East, and North America. Ancient Egyptians and Romans used it as a
spice. Licorice, the source of licorice extract, has a similar flavor but is a completely
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separate plant from a different family. However, since aniseed oil is often used to
enhance the flavor of licorice candy, distinguishing the flavors can be difficult. Although
star anise has a similar name and contains the same distinctive aromatic compound
(anethole) as anise, it is from the Illiciaceae family and is not related.
Pliny, in his treatise on natural history, mentions anise and states that the best was
grown on the Greek Island of Crete. He also tells us that anise was used to substitute
lovage in seasonings, as well as to alleviate headaches, soothe the stomach, clear the
eyes, and treat colics and coughs. Pliny, as well as Pythagoras, also strongly
recommended anise steeped in wine as a remedy against scorpions. The ancient Romans
also used it to flavor bridal cakes.
According to Democritus, the humble anise was the best cure for melancholy.
In England, under King Edward I, anise was used to pay taxes; in early English
herbals anise was also called Anny and Annyse.
In early Italian herbals anise was also indicated as helpful for nursing mothers.
Finally, in old astrology treatises anise was associated with the planet Mercury,
and according to old plant-lore it protected the lungs.
Full strength anise seed oil can cause vomiting and seizures; and, as will most
essential oils, it should not be ingested but only applied externally as aromatherapy.
Several sources I consulted agreed: Do not take the essential oil, except under
professional supervision.
Brandy Distilled From Gascoigne Wine
The term ‗brandy‘ isderived from brandywine, from the Dutch brandewijn,
meaning 'burnt wine'. It is a general term for distilled wine, usually 40–60% ethyl
alcohol by volume. In addition to wine, this spirit can also be made from grape, pomace,
or fermented fruit juice. Unless specified otherwise, brandy is made from grape wine. It
is normally consumed as an after-dinner drink. Modern brandy made from wine is
generally coloured with caramel coloring to imitate the effect of long aging in wooden
casks; pomace and fruit brandies are generally drunk unaged, and are not usually
coloured. Concentrated alcoholic beverages were known in ancient Greece and Rome and
may have a history going back to ancient Babylon. Brandy as it is known today first
began to appear in the 12th century and became generally popular in the 14th century.
―Long before the 16th century, wine was a popular product for trading in
European region. In the early 16th century, a Dutchman trader invented the way to ship
more wine in the limited cargo space by removing water from the wine. Then he could
add the water back to the concentrated wine at the destination port in Holland. They
called it "bradwijn," meaning "burned wine," and later became "brandy."
(http://www.cocktailtimes.com/history/brandy/index.html, last accessed February 22,
2008).
Chamomile
According to http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-chamomile.htm (last accessed
February 10, 2009), chamomile or camomile refers to two different geni of plant in the
Asteraceae family: Anthemis nobilis, known as Roman chamomile; and Matricaria
recutita, known as German chamomile. It is found in temperate zones of Europe, Asia,
North America, and Australia. According to the English Tea Store, The best quality
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Chamomile comes from the Nile Delta in Egypt
(http://www.englishteastore.com/camomile.html, last accessed February 10, 2009).
Both Roman and German chamomile plants are fairly short, the first reaching a
height of 8-12 inches (20-30 cm.), and the second, 6-24 inches (15-60 cm.). The flowers
of both are comprised of white petals arrayed around a yellow disk.
Ancient Egyptians were aware of the benefits of chamomile, and it was used
medicinally in the time of the Roman emperors. According to Lifescript.com, it is viewed
as an official drug in some 26 different countries around the world, not including the
United States. Perhaps the most famous "historical" use of chamomile is as a tea to
soothe Peter Rabbit after he eats too much in Mr. McGregor's garden. (see
http://www.lifescript.com/Health/Alternative-
Therapies/Herbs/Can_Chamomile_Benefit_Your_Health.aspx?trans=1&du=1&gclid=C
MPjh42t05gCFQECGgodC1QR0g&ef_id=1350:3:c_a9e05abbb965079799241e35efeba2
44_2540396255:0aaD09BkOIYAADLU-JUAAAAX:20090211014948, last accessed
February 10, 2009)
Caraway
Caraway (Carum carvi) is used as a vegetable, as well as an herb, and comes from
the same family (Apiaceae), as dill, anise, and cumin. Some of the names of caraway tend
to create confusion because they derive from a root word that refers to the similar herb,
cumin. Both the English and the Dutch refer to caraway as Wild cumin/Wilde komijn. In
Icelandic, cumin is Kummin, while caraway is Kúmen.
Like the other members of its family, caraway is a tall plant, with feathery green
leaflets. It grows to a height of 1½ to 4 feet (.46 to 1.22 meters). The flowers are white,
and the fruit, which looks like ribbed seeds and is often incorrectly referred to as seed, is
grey-green or greenish-brown when ripe.
While there are reports that its use has spanned 5,000 years, caraway was
certainly used by 1552 B.C. in Thebes, as reported in a medical record on papyrus. It is
also reportedly one of the first condiments used in Europe. According to both
WiseGeek.com and BigOven.com, it's believed that caraway seeds have been used in
Europe longer than any other condiment. They were found in Switzerland 8,000 years
ago and were first recorded in the medical papyrus of Thebes in 1552 BC
(http://www.bigoven.com/whatis.aspx?id=caraway20seed and
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-caraway.htm, last accessed February 10, 2009).
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Cinnamon
Native to Ceylon (Sri Lanka), true cinnamon, Cinnamomum zeylanicum, dates
back in Chinese writings to 2800 B.C., and is still known as kwai in the Chinese language
today. Its botanical name derives from the Hebraic and Arabic term amomon, meaning
fragrant spice plant. Ancient Egyptians used cinnamon in their embalming process. From
their word for cannon, Italians called it canella, meaning "little tube," which aptly
describes cinnamon sticks.
In the first century A.D., Pliny the Elder wrote of 350 grams of cinnamon as being
equal in value to over five kilograms of silver, about fifteen times the value of silver per
weight.
Native to Burma, cassia is botanically-known as Cinnamomum aromaticum or
Cinnamomum cassia. It is a member of the same family as true cinnamon, but it has a
stronger flavor thus requiring less in volume in recipes. Most commercial ground
cinnamon is actually cassia or a combination of cinnamon and cassia. This practice is
permitted with no restriction by most countries, including the United States.
Cassia is usually a better choice for savory dishes, rather than sweets.
Dried cassia buds resembling cloves are used in the East for pickles, curries,
candies and spicy meat dishes. Tiny yellow cassia flowers have a mild cinnamon flavor
and are sold preserved in a sweetened brine and used to perfume sweets, fruits, teas and
wines. (Home Cooking, Peggy Trowbridge Filippone ,
http://homecooking.about.com/od/cookingfaqs/f/faqcassia.htm, last accessed February 2,
2008).
Fennel Seed
Technically, fennel seeds are not seeds at all, but actually the fruits of the sweet
fennel plant, an herb which has been cultivated for culinary use for thousands of years.
However, most cooks call the fruits ―seeds‖ by convention, since they are small and
usually sold in a dry form which looks exactly like a seed.
There are several different cultivars of the fennel plant, which is also called
Foeniculum vulgare. One cultivar, Florence fennel or finocchio, is cultivated for use as a
vegetable. It produces a large bulb and thick stalks which can be cooked like a root
vegetable. Sweet fennel, on the other hand, is a bulbless fennel which produces green
fronds and fruits, and it is used like an herb rather than a vegetable.
Fennel is usually grown as an annual, since it does not do well in the cold. The
plant smells like anise or licorice, and has feathery fronds of foliage with umbels of
bright yellow flowers. The seeds are usually allowed to dry on the plant, which is gently
shaken over dishes or clothes to release the seeds once they have matured fully. Once
harvested, the seeds are picked through and then packaged. They can be eaten or used to
start new fennel seedlings.
Since fennel seed looks and smells a great deal like anise seed, many cooks use
the two interchangeably. It is a good idea to clearly label both spices to avoid confusion,
since anise is more pungent. WiseGeek.com claims that fennel aids digestion, while anise
does not. (http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-fennel-seed.htm, last accessed February 10,
2009).
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Galingale
Galingale is the edible root of the galanga plant. The formal title for the galanga
plant is Alpinia officinarum, although the root is known as galangal, galingale, iam kieu,
kha, or gao liagn jiang. The word ―galanga‖ is actually derived from an Arabic word,
khalanjan, which means ―Chinese ginger.‖ The plant has dark green spear shaped leaves
which can get quite long, and flowers which strongly resemble irises. Some people
actually grow galanga as an ornamental, since it is rather attractive.
The plant is in the ginger family, so it comes as no surprise that galanga root
strongly resembles ginger. There are a few differences, however. Galanga root is more
white and creamy than ginger, and it also has a distinct peppery flavor which is more like
mustard than ginger.
Most cooks work with greater galangal, a more rugged, hardy plant which is
widely distributed. Lesser galangal is essentially limited to Southeast Asia, where it is
used in specialty recipes (from http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-galanga-root.htm, last
accessed February 10, 2009).
Ginger
Ginger's current name comes from the Middle English gingivere, but ginger dates
back over 3,000 years to the Sanskrit srngaveram meaning "horn root" with reference to
its appearance. In Greek it was ziggiberis, and in Latin, zinziberi.
Although it was well-known to the ancient Romans, ginger nearly disappeared in
Europe after the fall of the Roman Empire. Thanks to Marco Polo's trip to the Far East,
ginger came back into favor in Europe, becoming not only a much-coveted spice, but also
a very expensive one.
Ginger (botanical name Zingiber officinale) is in the same family as turmeric and
cardamom. It is native to Southern Asia and has long been a staple addition to Asian
cuisines.
Ginger is quite popular in the Caribbean Islands, where it grows wild in lush tropical
settings. Jamaican ginger is prized for its strong, perky flavor, and this island currently
provides most of the world's supply, followed by India, Africa and China.
The gnarled, bumpy root of the ginger plant is the source of this wonderful spice.
Although it is easily grown in tropical regions of the south, you will rarely be treated with
blooms during cultivation at home the way it does normally in the wild. It can easily be
grown in a flowerpot at home, but be sure to bring it indoors when the weather turns cool.
(from About.com: Home Cooking, Peggy Trowbridge Filippone,
http://homecooking.about.com/od/foodhistory/a/gingerhistory.htm, last accessed
February 2, 2008).
Family Zingiberaceae
Zingiber officinale (Ginger, Gengibre, Gingembre, Sheng Jian (Chinese),
Singabera (Sanskrit), Spanish: Jengibre, Ajenjibre, Jenijibre)
Asarum canadense (Wild Ginger)
Native to southeast Asia, ginger is now cultivated in the US (including Hawaii),
India, China, the West Indies, and other tropical regions. Ginger root is a tender creeping
perennial from the tropics that grows to about four feet high, producing thick, aromatic,
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fibrous, knotty, buff-coloured tuberous rhizomes. The stems are erect and annual with
long, narrow, lance-shaped leaves. The plant can produce stalks of sterile, fragrant, white
or yellow flowers. The root of the Chinese ginger does not separate as easily from the
skin as does the Jamaican variety. The rhizome is unearthed when the plant is about ten
months old. (from Innivista website, Ginger,
http://www.innvista.com/health/herbs/ginger.htm, last accessed February 2, 2008).
illustration copied from Plant Cultures: Exploring Plants and People,
http://www.plantcultures.org/plants/ginger_history.html, February 2, 2008.
Because ginger is not found in the wild, its origins are uncertain. It is likely to
have originated from India as ginger plants there show the most biological variability.
Potted ginger plants were carried on local vessels travelling the maritime trade routes of
the Indian Ocean and South China Sea in the 5th century AD and probably before. The
plants would have rapidly spread to many other countries along the way.
In the 16th century ginger was introduced to Africa and the Caribbean. It is now
cultivated throughout the humid tropics.
History
Ginger has a long history of use in South Asia, both in dried and fresh form. The
Hindu epic Mahabharata written around the 4th century BC describes a meal where meat
is stewed with ginger and other spices. It was also an important plant in the traditional
Indian system of Ayurvedic medicine.
In the Manasollasa literature written in the 11th century AD ginger was
mentioned as a flavouring for buttermilk drinks. Its use as a food became much more
widespread by the 13th century AD with the advent of Muslim rule in India. It became
popular to prepare meat dishes and drinks using ginger pastes. Fruit juices, tea, buttermilk
and curd products were spiced with ginger.
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Ginger was also highly important as an article of trade and was exported from
India to the Roman empire 2000 years ago where it was valued more for its medicinal
properties than as an ingredient in cookery.
It continued as an article of trade to Europe even after the fall of the Roman empire,
with Arab merchants controlling the trade in ginger and other spices for centuries. By
medieval times, it was being imported in preserved form, to be used in sweets.
Together with black pepper, ginger was one of the most commonly traded spices
during the 13th and 14th centuries. Arabs carried the rhizomes on their voyages to East
Africa to plant at coastal settlements and on Zanzibar. During this time in England,
ginger was sought after, and one pound in weight of ginger was equivalent to the cost of a
sheep.
(Plant Cultures: Exploring Plants and People,
http://www.plantcultures.org/plants/ginger_history.html, February 2, 2008)
Lavender
Lavender, whose scientific names are Lavandula angustifolia, L. officinalis, L.
spic, L. stoechas, L. dentata, L. latifolia, and L. pubescens, is an herb in the mint family
that is primarily employed for its fragrance in the garden and in personal care products,
but also finds its way into culinary use. The different varieties are sometimes categorized
as English lavender, French lavender, Italian lavender, and Spanish lavender. Lavender
also is known as aspic, lavandin (usually refers to particular hybrids), spike lavender, and
true lavender. Lavender plants are aromatic evergreen sub-shrubs that are native to the
Mediterranean region. Lavender grows to a height of one to three feet (30 to 90 cm). Its
blue to lilac-colored flowers bloom from July to September.
The name lavender derives from the Latin lavare, meaning ―to wash.‖ The
Romans used lavender to scent their baths, and also discovered its medicinal properties.
The Romans introduced lavender to Britain during their early times there. This nursery
rhyme, first printed out of period in the late 17th century, reportedly bears witness to the
cultivation of lavender near London at the time:
Lavender’s blue,
dilly, dilly,
Lavender’s green.
When I am king,
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dilly, dilly,
You shall be queen.
(From http://www.drugs.com/npc/lavender.html and http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-
lavender.htm, last accessed February 10, 2009)
Mint
With species in the mint genus native to Australia, North America, Europe, and
Asia, mint is an herb that includes more varieties than just the popular spearmint and
peppermint. In fact, many other herbs used as seasonings come from the same family
(Lamiaceae), including basil, catnip, oregano, rosemary, and sage. Wintergreen, which
might be expected to be related to mint, is actually from a different family
(http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-mint.htm, last accessed February 10, 2009).
There are three chief species of mint in cultivation and general use: Spearmint
(Mentha viridis), Peppermint (M. piperita), and Pennyroyal (M. pulegium), the first being
the one ordinarily used for cooking.
(http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/m/mints-39.html, last accessed February 10,
2009).
Members of the mint family produce green bushy plants. While most varieties
attain a height of 1-3 feet, they are nevertheless sometimes used as ground cover. Leaf
color varies by species, and the flowers may be white, pink, or lavender.
(http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-mint.htm, last accessed February 10, 2009).
Spearmint (Mentha spicata printed as
Mentha viridis LINN.)
Unsurprisingly, mint was chewed as a breath freshener early in history. Ovid
recounts the story of a nymph named Minthe or Menthe who was about to be seduced by
Hades, God of the Underworld, when his wife, Persephone, coming upon them, turned
her into a plant. Mint was used in Ancient Greek funeral rites, as well as in an ancient
fermented barley drink (according to botanical.com, cited above).
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Nutmegs
Nutmeg was once an important product in the European spice trade of the Middle
Ages. It became phenomenally expensive, and controlling the centers of nutmeg
production gave a country considerable political power. The Dutch eventually traded
New Amsterdam, which later became New York, to England in exchange for the only
source of nutmeg at the time, Run Island in Indonesia. It has historically been used for
medicinal purposes in China, and its use dates back as far as the fifth century.
Nutmeg comes from a tree in Asia that grows to about fifteen feet tall. The
nutmeg seed, however, is what gives us the spice of nutmeg.
Nutmeg can be hallucinogenic or poisonous in large doses, but these are rarely
reached accidentally. Nutmeg is chemically similar to the drug MDMA, or ecstasy, in
large doses, but it is rarely used recreationally, as it has quite unpleasant side effects and
may not wear off for days. Nutmeg poisoning, resulting from quantities over 25 grams, is
characterized by body aches, convulsions, dehydration, heart palpitations, nausea, and
severe depression (from http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-nutmeg.htm, and
http://deepfitness.com/4567/What-Is-Nutmeg-And-What-Can-It-Do-For-Me.aspx, last
accessed February 10, 2009).
Pellitory
Parietaria officinalis (Pellitory-of-the-Wall), also known as Lichwort or
Hammerwort, is a small Mediterranean herb of the Nettle family. Its long narrow leaves
are non-stinging, and it has small pink apetalous flowers. The plant grows in crevices and
on walls, hence the name. It was once used as a medicinal herb and in the making of
certain metheglins.
(From wordnet.princeton.edu/perl/webwn,
home.olemiss.edu/~tjray/medieval/cooking.htm,
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pellitory_of_the_Wall, and
http://www.naturdoctor.com/Chapters/Vitamins/Herbs/Parietaria_diffusa.html, last
accessed February 10, 2009).
Red Roses
Rosa rosacea
Both rose petals and rose hips can be used in mead. Petals and hips have
distinctly different flavors when steeped; hips are, after all, the fruit of the rose. Every
variety of rose has a distinctive aroma to impart, not all of them pleasant. Since roses
have been around in pretty much their current form for about 50,000 years, and have been
a long-standing source of human fascination, one does not have to seek far to find the
older varieties that were around pre-1600. There are a number of very helpful Old Rose
societies, and gardens where old roses are grown exclusively, such as the rose garden I
visited years ago at a thirteenth century castle in Bingen, Germany, where the garden was
planted in the drained moat, and an old pink rose trained up the remains of the tower.
Just think of what the soil must be like after centuries of refuse dumping.
Roses can change character throughout the growing season, or even at different
times of day. One must be careful to avoid roses that have been treated with pesticides or
fungicides (roses are particularly prone to fungi). One must choose one‘s rose petals and
hips with care.
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Rosemary
From the mint family Lamiaceae, the Latin name for rosemary is Rosmarinus
officianalis, and the compound word rosmarinus means ―dew of the sea.‖ This is
probably a reflection of the rugged environment which rosemary prefers; the
Mediterranean plant grows best when largely left alone, and is often found on the cliffs
and rocks along seashores. Rosemary was one of the plants that, according to the
Capitulare de villis, was grown in medieval monasteries. In medieval times, people
exchanged rosemary as a symbol of loyalty and remembrance, and it was frequently used
in memorial wreaths for this reason as well. The herb is still associated with memory in
Western culture.
Rosemary is highly drought resistant but has poor resistance to freezes. It is
usually a largely maintenance free plant, unless it is over-watered, in which case the roots
may rot, causing the plant to droop and die. Rosemary also takes well to pruning, and can
be shaped into an attractive bush or low hedge.
Culinary use of rosemary stretches back for centuries; it has been recorded as a
culinary ingredient since before the common era. Rosemary also has an ancient tradition
in cosmetics for both women and men. Rosemary has mild antibacterial properties,
making it an excellent choice as an addition to shaving toner, and the scent of the herb is
also supposed to help with relaxation.
(From Gernot Katzer‘s Spice Pages, http://www.uni-graz.at/~katzer/engl/Rosm_off.html
and http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-rosemary.htm, last accessed February 10
Sage
The sage varieties used as spice stem from the Mediterranean and Asia Minor.
There are hundreds of species of sage in the Salvia genus, but the version most frequently
used in cooking is Salvia officinalis. This variety of sage is native to Southern and
Eastern Europe (from http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-sage.htm, last accessed
February 10, 2009). This is another herb with a horde of differently flavored cultivars:
there are probably between a dozen or so races of just Salvia officinalis, plus many more
"quasi-sages" that are close cousins within the Salvia genus (such as "Pineapple Sage" or
"Clary Sage").(http://growingtaste.com/herbs/sage.shtml, last accessed February 10,
2009)
The names of sage in almost all European tongues derive from the classical Latin
name of that plant, salvia. This name is thought to derive from salvere, to save, thus
indicating the medical value of the plant. (http://www.uni-
graz.at/~katzer/engl/Salv_off.html, last accessed February 10, 2009)
Sage has been grown in Central Europe since the Middle Ages. In the 9th century
Charlemagne ordered that sage be planted to grow on the imperial farms. It was greatly
valued for its ability to ―heal‖ fevers, colds, and on some occasions even epilepsy. Sage
tea was widely popular in 16th century England even before black tea became the
commonality among tea preference.
(http://www.spiceislands.com/ProductDetail.aspx?Id=cb2fcfa1-a86a-4802-9855-
def5f642964c, last accessed February 10, 2009)
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Sugar
Sugar use by man may have originated in Polynesia and spread to India. In 510
BC the Emperor Darius of what was then Persia invaded India where he found "the reed
which gives honey without bees". The secret of cane sugar, as with many other of man's
discoveries, was kept a closely guarded secret as the finished product was exported for a
rich profit.
It was the major expansion of the Arab peoples in the seventh century AD that led
to a breaking of the secret. When they invaded Persia in 642 AD they found sugar cane
being grown and learnt how sugar was made. As their expansion continued they
established sugar production in other lands that they conquered, including North Africa
and Spain.
‗The invasion of Arabs into India nearly 1,000 years later in 642
A.D. led to the spread of sugar cane to the rest of the world. The Arabs
discovered sugar cane and learned how it was processed by the Indians.
They brought the cane with them as they conquered much of Europe,
introducing it to lands such as North Africa and Spain. For many years,
however, the rest of Europe was stuck with honey, because sugar did not
make it to the west until the crusades. The first record of sugar in England
occurs in the year 1099.‖ (Former Fat Guy,
http://www.formerfatguy.com/articles/sugar-coated-truth.asp, last
accessed February 26, 2008).
Outside of Spain, sugar was discovered by western Europeans as a result of the
Crusades in the 11th
Century AD. Crusaders returning home talked of this "new spice"
and how pleasant it was. The first sugar was recorded in England in 1099. The
subsequent centuries saw a major expansion of western European trade with the East,
including the importation of sugar. It is recorded, for instance, that sugar was available in
London at "two shillings a pound" in 1319 AD. This equates to about US$100 per kilo at
today's prices so it was very much a luxury.
In the 15th
century AD, European sugar was refined in Venice. This seems to
indicate that even then when quantities were small, it was difficult to transport sugar as a
food grade product. In the same century, Columbus sailed to the Americas, the "New
World". It is recorded that in 1493 he took sugar cane plants to grow in the Caribbean.
The climate there was so advantageous for the growth of the cane that an industry was
quickly established. (How Sugar Is Made – the History,
http://www.sucrose.com/lhist.html, last accessed February 22, 2008).
―It was only with the opening up of the West Indies and the creation of
plantations of sugar cane with slave labor in the 18th
century that bulk supplies of sugar
for Europe became available, bringing its price down and putting it within everyone‘s
reach…‖ (Acton and Duncan, 1985, p. 9). Nowadays cane sugar is used to ―prime‖
bottles, to generate a secondary fermentation once the beverage has been bottled, to
create carbonation. I do not generally prime my bottles, and will note in the recipe if I
have done so.
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Thyme
Thyme is a culinary herb native to the sunny Mediterranean hillsides of Southern
Europe. The species of thyme most commonly used in food is Thymus vulgaris, but there
are over a hundred species of thyme. In all cases, it is the small, tender leaves of thyme
which are used for seasoning, while the thin, woody, and sometimes wiry stems are
avoided. The small clusters of white to pale purple flowers, which form distinctive balls
at the end of the stems, are also usually avoided for cooking, although they are sometimes
used in teas and herb sachets. (From http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-thyme.htm, last
accessed February 10, 2009)
Long before thyme became a flavoring ingredient, it was a symbol of courage for
the Romans. Even earlier, however, the Egyptians used it to mummify the dead.
The use of thyme has been recorded as far back as 3000 BC when it was used as
an antiseptic by the Sumerians. The early Egyptians also used thyme as one of the
ingredients in their mummification process.
The hills of Greece are covered with wild thyme, and thyme honey from the tiny
pink and lavender blossoms is plentiful. To the ancient Greeks, thyme came to denote
elegance, and the phrase "to smell of thyme" became an expression of stylish praise.
Thyme was widely used: medically, in massage and bath oils, as incense in the temples
and as an aphrodisiac. Even the origins of the word thyme are Greek: from the word
thymon meaning "courage."
The Romans also associated thyme with courage and vigor, bathing in waters
scented with thyme to prepare themselves for battle. The Scottish highlanders of old
would prepare a tea of wild thyme for the same purpose, as well as for warding off
nightmares. During the Middle Ages, European ladies embroidered a sprig of thyme on
tunics for their knights, again as a token of courage (from http://www.sallys-
place.com/food/columns/gilbert/thyme.htm and
http://www.bigoven.com/whatis.aspx?id=Thyme, last accessed February 10, 2009)
The Bottle
Let us begin with Pliny, the Roman historian of the first century A.D. Because
the Phoenicians had used blocks of soda taken from their ships' cargoes, near their
campfires, explains Pliny, the heat of the fire had combined the soda and sand to form
mankind's first glass. It's a romantic story, but Pliny is wrong. The Phoenicians were not
the first to discover glass, but then Pliny did not have the benefit of modern research
techniques, which have proven glass to be at least 14,000 years old.
About 12,000 B.C. the Egyptians perfected a green glass glaze and with it coated
pebbles and stones to make jewelry. It took another 5,000 years for the jewelers to
discover that a pure glass bead could be formed by building up layers of the glaze. The
necklaces made in those lost ages were not unlike the strands of inexpensive, gaily
colored glass beads so common today.
The first glass bottles and jars were created during that same period. The process
was so slow and tedious, however, that only kings and queens or people of immense
wealth could afford them. Thin threads of molten glass were skillfully wound around a
mold of wet sand which was later removed. These coveted jars served as containers for
perfumes, cosmetics and ointments. Some of the glassware was used as tear vases. When
a king or important official died, mourners shed their tears in the little bottles, which
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were then sealed in the tomb. The deceased would see these tokens of grief when he
reached the next world.
A dramatic advance in the art of glassmaking occurred in Syria about 250 B.C.
when the "blown" method of making glass replaced "wound" glassware. How the
discovery was made no one is quite sure. Perhaps an artisan was stirring a batch of
molten glass with a hollow rod and decided to clear the end by blowing through the rod.
Or perhaps a glassmaker blew through a hollow glass rod which had been closed by heat
at one end. At any rate, a much more practical means of producing glass had arrived.
With one puff the glassblower could obtain a finished shape. No longer was glass made
by the slow and expensive "wound" process suitable only for royalty's purse.
A further refinement came with the discovery that molten glass blown into a mold
would give a uniform, distinct shape. With the two new processes, bowls, vases, glasses,
and cruets were produced in countless numbers. Even some "frivolous" objects could be
afforded for the first time—toys, finger rings and twisted glass bangles.
The use of glass bottles began to spread after the first century BC, though glass
had already been in use for four thousand years by then. Seneca wrote, ―It seemed a poor
thing to have a vessel proof against shocks…‖ (Kingsley & Decker, 2001).
With the bottle came the cork stopper sealed with pitch, marked with pittacium or
inscription indicating place of origin, year of manufacture and its contents, a boon to
modern archaeologists.
Glass became the property of the average man, and people who used it in those
days liked it for the very same reasons glass is useful today. It was leakproof, evaporation
was slowed, it did not leave a taste—especially when oils, wines and honeys were kept in
the containers for any length of time. Men of science adopted glass jars for their
chemicals and medicines, and traders preferred glass containers for carrying certain
cargoes on long voyages. But, best of all, the glass vessels could be used over and over
again.
According to Wikipedia, not the world‘s most documentable source, Sir Kenelme
Digby is considered the father of the modern wine bottle. During the 1630s, Digby owned
a glassworks and manufactured wine bottles which were globular in shape with a high,
tapered neck, a collar, and a punt. His manufacturing technique involved a coal furnace,
made hotter than usual by the inclusion of a wind tunnel, and a higher ratio of sand to
potash and lime than was customary. Digby's technique produced wine bottles which
were stronger and more stable than most of their day, and which, due to their dark color,
protected the contents from light. During his exile and prison term, others claimed his
technique as their own, but in 1662 Parliament recognized his claim to the invention as
valid.
Color, or lack of color, then became an area of experimentation, especially in
glassware intended to please the eye as well as being practical. Artisans in Syria, Persia
and Arabia added chemicals such as cobalt, manganese and copper to give color to glass,
and were constantly on the lookout for new means of obtaining colors.
Advances were often made by trial and error or perhaps accident. One story tells
of a glassmaker who, while bending over his mixture of molten glass, lost a silver button
from his coat. The mixture instantly turned a bright yellow, much to the amazement of
the glassmaker. Another story tells of silver coins thrown into a mixture with the hope
that a sparkling silver glass would appear. Instead, the mixture turned a dull black.
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However, when gold dust was tried, the particles were imprisoned in the glass. The result
was not yellow or gold but a deep ruby red!
Completely transparent glass was also much sought-after. Pliny mentions that
"The highest value is placed upon glass that is entirely colorless and transparent as
possible, resembling crystal." For centuries the iron deposits in the sand had kept the
glass from being clear. Finally about 200 A.D. the Romans discovered the right
ingredients to render glass entirely transparent—so clear, in fact, that they called it
"cristallo" because it reminded them of rock crystal.
(http://www.saudiaramcoworld.com/issue/196210/beauty.in.glass.htm, last accessed
February 10, 2009)
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Herbs and Spices
Humoural Qualities per
Discorides
Galen’s Notes on Humoural Qualities
Anise seed generally warming, drying,
pain-easing,
Cardamom A decoction (taken as a
drink with water) is able to
heat.
Caraway warming (442) warming (diuretic)
Chamomile dissolving, urinary,
dispersing,
Cinnamon sharp, warming and bitter.
(oil) (p. 75)...differs in
kind from cinnamon
having another nature.
Now all cinnamon is
warming, diuretic,
softening and
digestive.(18)
D: It is effective with cardamom
for fistulas, decaying flesh, watery lungs, carbuncles
[infected boils] and gangrene; and rubbed on for chills
which recur, tremors, and those bitten by virulent beasts.
Distilled wine no reference
Fennell seed lessens nausea (459).
Heating.
stored like pellitory for year-round use
Galingale no reference
Ginger warming and digestive
Heliotrope expels phlegm and bile
Lavender sharp and bitter (399-400)
Musk no reference
Nutmeg according to the taste very
astringent
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Pellitory draws out or expels
phlegm. Warming
Rosemary warming
Thyme is able to drive out
phlegmy matter (415)
Wine no specific notes on
Gascony wine; white wine
is thin and easily digested
wine is nourishing; "the thick, red ones are the most useful of all
wines for the production of blood, since they require the least change
into it.". Sweet wines are warmer than harsh ones
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SOURCES
Acton, Bryan, and Duncan, Peter. Making Mead. G.W. KJent, Inc., Michigan. 1996.
Arikha, Noga. Passions and Tempers: A History of the Humours. Ecco Press, New
York. 2007.
French, R. Medicine Before Science, Cambridge University Press, England. 2003.
Grant, M. (trans.) Galen on Food and Diet. Routledge Press, New York. 2000.
Jones, W.H.S. (ed). Hippocrates. Airs, Waters, Places. Harvard University Press,
Massachusetts. 1984.
Keirsey, David (1998). Please Understand Me II: Temperament, Character, Intelligence.
Del Mar, CA: Prometheus Nemesis Book Company. pp. 26. ISBN 1-885705-02-6.
Kingsley, Sean and Decker, Michael. Economy and Exchange in the East Mediterranean
During Late Antiquity: Proceedings of a Conference at Somerville College, Oxford-29th
May, 1999. Oxbow Books, England. 1999.
Lutz, Peter L. (2002), The Rise of Experimental Biology: An Illustrated History, Humana
Press, p. 60, ISBN 0896038351
Nutton, Vivian. The Unknown Galen. 2002.
Plat, Sir Hugh. Delightes for Ladies, Humphrey Lownes, London, 1609. Reprinted by
Crosby Lockwood & Son Ltd., 1948, with introductions by G.E. Fussell and Kathleen
Rosemary Fussell.
Powell, Owen. Galen: On the Properties of Foodstuffs. Cambridge University Press,
2007.
Tracy, Theodore James. Physiological Theory and the Doctrine of the Mean in Plato and
Aristotle, The Hague and Paris. 1969.
Websites used to research ingredients are listed in the text. They include:
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-anise.htm
http://www.bigoven.com/whatis.aspx?id=anise20seed
http://www.cocktailtimes.com/history/brandy/index.html
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-chamomile.htm
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http://www.englishteastore.com/camomile.html
http://www.lifescript.com/Health/Alternative-
Therapies/Herbs/Can_Chamomile_Benefit_Your_Health.aspx?trans=1&du=1&gclid=C
MPjh42t05gCFQECGgodC1QR0g&ef_id=1350:3:c_a9e05abbb965079799241e35efeba2
44_2540396255:0aaD09BkOIYAADLU-JUAAAAX:20090211014948
http://www.bigoven.com/whatis.aspx?id=caraway20seed
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-caraway.htm
http://homecooking.about.com/od/cookingfaqs/f/faqcassia.htm
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-fennel-seed.htm
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-galanga-root.htm
http://homecooking.about.com/od/foodhistory/a/gingerhistory.htm
http://www.innvista.com/health/herbs/ginger.htm
http://www.innvista.com/health/herbs/ginger.htm
http://www.plantcultures.org/plants/ginger_history.html
http://www.drugs.com/npc/lavender.html
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-lavender.htm
http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/m/mints-39.html
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-mint.htm
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-nutmeg
http://deepfitness.com/4567/What-Is-Nutmeg-And-What-Can-It-Do-For-Me.aspx
http://www.naturdoctor.com/Chapters/Vitamins/Herbs/Parietaria_diffusa.html
http://www.uni-graz.at/~katzer/engl/Rosm_off.html
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-rosemary.htm
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-sage.htm
http://growingtaste.com/herbs/sage.shtml
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http://www.uni-graz.at/~katzer/engl/Salv_off.html
http://www.spiceislands.com/ProductDetail.aspx?Id=cb2fcfa1-a86a-4802-9855-
def5f642964c
http://www.sucrose.com/lhist.html
http://www.formerfatguy.com/articles/sugar-coated-truth.asp
http://www.wisegeek.com/what-is-thyme.htm
http://www.sallys-place.com/food/columns/gilbert/thyme.htm
http://www.bigoven.com/whatis.aspx?id=Thyme