Choosing Quality Apparel Apparel Development 2 Objective 3.01.
Apparel quality management part 1
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Transcript of Apparel quality management part 1
WHAT IS QUALITY?
What would someone mean by the quality of a
shoe?
Let us suppose that it is a man’s shoe that he is asking about.
Does he mean by good quality that it wears a long time?
Or that it takes a shine well?
That is feels comfortable?
That it is waterproof?
That the price is right in consideration of whatever he considers
quality? Or it is good in design?
Put another way, what quality-characteristics are important to
the customer? - Deming
WHAT IS QUALITY?
• Product quality is based on a product attribute. How will you differentiate the quality between woven shirt and sweater?
• User-based quality is fitness for use, How will you differentiate the quality between women garments and kids garments as a wearer?
• manufacturing based quality is conformance to requirements, Which quality parameters will be followed when manufacturing thermal wear and sweat jacket?
• value based quality is the degree of excellence at an acceptable price
Zara jacket or mango jackets are products gives value for money
QUALITY types?
Assurance: The act of giving confidence, the state of being certain or the act of making certain.
Quality Assurance: The planned and systematic activities implemented in a quality system so that quality requirements for a product or service will be fulfilled.
Control: An evaluation to indicate needed corrective responses; the act of guiding a process in which variability is attributable to a constant system of chance causes.
Quality Control: The observation techniques and activities used to fulfill requirements for quality.
•
•
DEFINITIONS OF QUALITY
• Conformance to specifications
• The degree to which a product or
service meets the needs of the
customer
• Uniformity around a customer-
defined target
• Exceeding customer expectations
The customer is the most important part of the process.
FEW RETURNS
IMPACT OF HIGHER QUALITY ON VALUE
HIGHER
QUALITY
LESS WAIST
LESS REWORK
FEW
REJECTION
LESS BACKLOG
FEW
COMPLAINTS
LOWER COST
HIGH
PRODUCTIVITY
HIGHER
VALUE
MARKETING &
MARKET RESEARCH
REQUIREMENTS &
SPECIFICATION
DESIGN&
DEVELOPMENT
PROCUREMENT
PROCESS PLANNING &
DEVELOPMENT
PRODUCTION
INSPECTION, TESTING &
EXAMINATION
PACKAGING &
STORAGE
SALES&
DISTRIBUTION
INSTALLATION
&
OPERATION
TECHNICAL ASSISTANCE &
MAINTENANCE
DISPOSAL
QUALITY MUST BE CONSIDER AT ALL STAGES IN THE LIFE CYCLE, AS SHOWN BELOW, OF A PRODUCT.
Quality inspection in apparel industries
“Visual examination or review of raw materials, partially finished components of garments and completely finished garments in relation to some standards, specifications, or requirements, as well as measuring garments to check if they meet the required measurements.”
QUALITY INSPECTION IN APPAREL INDUSTRIES
• Do to control quality of garments.
• Checking of fabric,
• Sewing thread,
• Button,
• Stitching,
• Zipper and other trims,
• Garments measurements/size etc
according to required standard or specification is
known as inspection.
Quality inspection is important for every section of
apparel industries.
STEPS IN APPAREL INDUSTRIES TO CONTROL QUALITY
RAW MATERIAL INSPECTION
IN PROCESS INSPECTION
FINAL INSPECTION
RAW MATERIALS INSPECTION
It is done for the raw materials which are used in the
apparel production like fabric, sewing thread, button,
other accessories etc.
It is also termed as ‘incoming material inspection.
Normally this is mainly done for fabrics using 4 point
system or 10 point system.
ONLINE OR IN-PROCESS INSPECTION
This is done during the manufacturing process so that if there is
any problem in the process that will be rectified in that stage
itself.
This will be carried out by the quality controllers periodically
say every two or three hours.
They will check the measurement and defects and make the
inspection report which will be intimated to the production in-
charge.
FINAL INSPECTION
This inspection is done after the goods are manufactured and
packed in carton boxes and which are ready for the shipment.
The goods are inspected and will be graded as per
acceptable quality level (AQL) which is prescribed by the
buyer.
The goods can be shipped after the final inspection is passed.
QUALITY INSPECTION IN APPAREL INDUSTRIES
IN SAMPLE MAKING SECTION
IN-MARKER MAKING SECTION
INSPECTION IN FABRIC SPREADING SECTION
INSPECTION IN FABRIC CUTTING SECTION
INSPECTION IN FABRIC SEWN SECTION
INSPECTION IN PRESSING & FINISHING SECTION
QUALITY INSPECTION IN SAMPLING
MAINTAINING BUYER SPECIFICATION STANDARD
CHECKING THE SAMPLE AND ITS DIFFERENT ISSUES
MEASUREMENTS CHECKING
FABRIC COLOR, GSM, FASTNESS ETC PROPERTIES REQUIRED
CHECKING
SPI AND OTHER PARAMETER CHECKING
ANY OTHER DETAILING CHECKING
QUALITY CONTROL IN MARKER MAKING
TO CHECK NOTCH OR DRILL MARK
FABRIC WIDTH MUST BE HIGHER THAN MARKER WIDTH
FABRIC LENGTH MUST BE HIGHER THAN MARKER LENGTH
MATCHING OF GREEN LINE
CHECK PATTERN SIZE AND DIMENSION
MATCHING OF CHECK AND STRIPE TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION
CONSIDERING GARMENTS PRODUCTION PLAN
PATTERN DIRECTION CONSIDERATION
FABRIC SPREADING ACCORDING TO CORRECT
ALIGNMENT WITH MARKER LENGTH AND WIDTH
MAINTAIN REQUIREMENTS OF SPREADING
LAY CONTAINS CORRECT NUMBER OF FABRIC PLY
CORRECT PLY DIRECTION
TO CONTROL THE FABRIC SPLICING
TENSION CONTROL
QUALITY CONTROL IN FABRIC SPREADING
The dimension of the pattern and the cut piece should be same and accurate
CUT EDGE SHOULD BE SMOOTH AND CLEAN
NOTCH SHOULD BE CUT FINELY
DRILL HOLE SHOULD MADE AT PROPER PLACE
NO YARN FRAYING SHOULD OCCUR AT CUT EDGE
AVOID BLADE DEFLECTION
MAINTAIN CUTTING ANGLE
QUALITY CONTROL IN FABRIC CUTTING
MORE SKILLED OPERATOR USING
INPUT MATERIAL CHECKING
SPECIAL WORK LIKE EMBROIDERY, PRINTING PANEL CHECK
GARMENTS MEASUREMENT CHECK
SIZE MISTAKE CHECK
SHADE VARIATION WITHIN THE CLOTH
CREASED OR WRINKLE APPEARANCE CONTROL
QUALITY CONTROL IN SEWING SECTION
CUT PANEL AND ACCESSORIES CHECKING
MACHINE IS IN WELL CONDITION THREAD COUNT CHECK
NEEDLE SIZE CHECKING STITCHING FAULT SHOULD BE CHECKED
SEAM FAULT CHECK
MISMATCHING MATCHING OF TRIMMING
WRONG PLACEMENT OF INTERLINING
Proper inspection of the garments including measurement, spot, dirt,
impurities Water spot
IN SECURED OR BROKEN CHAIN OR BUTTON
PROPERLY DRIED IN AFTER PRESSING
GET UP CHECKING
QUALITY CONTROL IN FINISHING SECTION
SHADING VARIATION CHECK SMOOTH AND UNFOLD IN POCKET
PROPER SHAPE IN GARMENTS WANTED WRINKLE OR FOLD IN LINING
COLLAR CLOSING
SIDE SEAM
EVERY PARTS OF A BODY
WRONG FOLD
SLEEVE PLACKET ATTACH
CUFF ATTACH
BOTTOM HEM
BACK YOKE
• Done through Fabric Inspection machine.
• Very important for every industries .
• In fabric inspection their checks several things i.e. in fabric are there any defect available or not. In fabric, fabric defects viz. off shade or shade variation, hole in fabric, barre effect etc. can be visual after entering into the store room. For those defects it will be problem able for making garments making.
• In fabric inspection, also test fabric strength, color, quantity
• To check fabric there are different system i.e. 4 point system, 10 point system etc.
FABRIC INSPECTION
FABRIC INSPECTION
FABRIC INSPECTION
FABRIC INSPECTION
During stitching fabric frequently brakeage of sewing thread is one of
the great problems for garments manufacturing.
So that it is necessary to check
• THREAD CONSTRUCTION,
• SEWABILITY,
• COLOR,
• IMPERFECTION,
• FINISH, PACKAGE
• THREAD NUMBER,
• THREAD PLY,
• THREAD TENACITY,
• THREAD ELONGATION,
• WINDING,
• YARDAGE OF SEWING THREAD.
SEWING THREAD INSPECTION
The final quality of any garment is also affected by trims and accessories
applied in it.
So that it is necessary to check
• BUTTON,
• ZIPPERS
• INTERLINING,
• LABEL &
• TAGS
also need to check so that quality can be maintain according to required
quality.
FOR BUTTON,
• BUTTON STRENGTH,
• BUTTON COLOR,
• QUANTITY ETC ARE CHECKED.
TRIMS AND ACCESSORIES INSPECTION
• Inspecting different parts of garments before sewing are called in
process inspection.
• It starts from marker making, than fabric spreading, fabric cutting,
fabric sewing, pressing or finishing checking is done in process.
• MARKER MAKING
• FABRIC SPREADING
• FABRIC CUTTING
• SORTING/ BUNDLING
• FABRIC SEWING
• SEAM DEFECTS
• ASSEMBLY DEFECTS
• PRESSING/ FINISHING DEFECTS
IN PROCESS INSPECTION
2. Distorted Grading:
• Unbalanced patterns which would cause twisted seams,
• puckering,
• pleating and
• a general uneconomical yardage waste.
PATTERN GRADING DEFECTS
1. Grade Not Conforming to Specification measurements
• Finished product not measuring to specified dimension
• component parts not fitting in relationship to notches,
• openings and seams such as armholes sleeve heads neck
bands,
• neck openings and side seams inseams,
• waist measurements and etc.
MARKER
MARKER INSPECTION
• It is necessary to check all the parts of garments pattern are in marker.
• In marker labelling or coding of pattern should be checked
• Pattern direction should be checked.
• Pattern grain line is very important thing which must be considered
during marker making.
• During marker making every pattern pieces dimension should be
accurate.
• During marker making fabric length and width should be considered.
MARKER INSPECTION
•Notches & drill marks
•Knife clearance
•Checks and stripes (mittering)
•Marker width
MARKING DEFECTS
Shaded Parts:-All component pans not included in same section.
Pieces not Symmetrical:-Will not sew together without puckering or
pleating.
Not Marked by Directional Lines:-Bias will not lit together, causing
twisting, puckering. pleating and a general mismatching of component
parts.
Skimpy marking:-Marker did not use outside perimeter of pattern.
Notches and Punch Marks:-Left out., not clearly marked or misplaced.
Marker Too Wide:-Parts will not catch in lay, causing skimpy garments or
requiring results.
MARKER DEFECTS
Pattern moved after partially marked to fit into space.
Marker Too Narrow:-Results In wasted material
Mismatched Plaids-Marker did not block component parts to match.
Misdirected Napping:-Patterns not marked in same direction and napped
fabrics.
SPREADING
Factors which must be checked
• Fabric Nature
• Ply alignment
• Ply tension/slackness
• Bowing
• Splicing
• Grain-line
• Shade variation
• Selvedge alignment & tightness
• Fabric width
• Checks
• Static electricity
SPREADING INSPECTION
1. Uneven Spreading:-Front edge of lay is not even, resulting in front or
back edge of marker not catching all ply.
2. Narrow Material:-Bolts or rolls of material too narrow to cover
marker width.
3. Missed Sectional Breaks:-Sectional marker breaks too long or too
short. Parts in lay will be short or material wasted.
4. Improper Tension:-Cloth spread too tight or too loose, causing parts
not to fit in sewing or distorting dimensions of garments.
5. Mismatching Plaids:-Material spread too loose or too tight causing
plaid lines to run diagonally or bow.
6. Misdirected Napping:-Air pockets not removed. Napped material
reversed in spreading.
7. Improper Matching of Face of Material:-Not spread face down, face
up or face to face as required.
SPREADING DEFECTS
FRAYED EDGE
FUZZY, RAGGED OR SERRATED EDGES
Marker Making
↓
Fabric Spreading
↓
Placing Marker Paper on to the Lay
↓
Fabric Cutting
↓
Numbering
↓
100% checking & Parts Replacing if needed.
↓
Shorting & Bundling
↓
Sewing/Assembling
CUTTING INSPECTION
•Ply to ply fusion
•Single edge fusion
•Pattern precision
•Notches & drillers
•Cutting Equipment precision
CUTTING INSPECTION
1. Misplaced Piece Rate Tickets or Bundle Members:-Attached to, or marked on, wrong
bundles, causing mixed sizes or land shades.
2. Drill Marks:-Drill marks misplaced, not perpendicular, omitted or wrong side drill
used.
3. Opening Slits:-Cut under above to the side or at incorrect angle. Not cut through
entire bundle or omitted.
4. Improper Cutting:-Not following marker lines, resulting in distorted parts. Letting
knife lean causing top and bottom ply to be of different sizes.
5. Notches:-Misplaced, too deep, too shallow or omitted.
6. Oil Spots:-Equipment improperly oiled or cleaned.
7. Improper Knife Sharpening:-Causing ragged, frayed or fused edges on bundles.
CUTTING DEFECTS
It is necessary to check numbering, sorting, and
bundling is done accurately.
SORTING/ BUNDLING
DEFECTS
1. Not Stacked in Numerical Order: Bundle numbers
not in order on rack skid or box.
2. Matching Linings: Wrong size or wrong material.
• Stitching Defects
• Needle damage
• Skipped stitch
• Thread breaks
• Seam pucker
• Wrong stitch density
• Uneven stitch
• Staggered stitch
• Improperly formed stitch
SEWING INSPECTION
Skip stitches
•Improper threading.
•Poor clamping or insufficient
pressure (flagging).
•The needle needs replacing.
•Wrong size needle.
•Wrong type of needle for the
material.
•Lubrication.
•Wrong thread for the
application.
•Poor quality thread.
•Needle size and thread weight
are mismatched.
•Worn thread guides, paths or
eyelets