Apparel Merchandising Unit 1
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Transcript of Apparel Merchandising Unit 1
BYMAJOR SIVA SSMPC
Saturday, April 22, 2023 MAJOR SIVA SSMPC 2
To know about Merchandising we should have to know the followings
• What is Merchandising?• Who are Merchandisers?• The qualities a Merchandiser should have• What are the responsibilities of a Merchandiser?• What are the responsibilities of a Junior
Merchandiser?• Works involved in Merchandising• Role & Necessity of a Merchandiser in Garments
Trade
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What is Merchandising?
• The Word Merchandising came from Merchant.• The work of Merchant is to buy and sell.• So Merchandising is to buy and sell products in a
reasonable profit i.e. Merchandising means Trading.
• In common sense in Garments Trade Merchandising is
Buy (Fabrics+ Accessories) Process Sell (RMG)
Saturday, April 22, 2023 MAJOR SIVA SSMPC 4
Who are Merchandisers?
• The Person who deals with Trade, he/she is a Merchandiser.
• The person who deals with the Garments Trade is a Garments Merchandiser.
Saturday, April 22, 2023 MAJOR SIVA SSMPC 5
The qualities, a Merchandiser should have
• Should be technically sound having clear conception about:
1. Textile fiber, yarn & fabrics
2. Dyeing, printing & finishing
3. Garments Manufacturing, washing and dyeing
4. Garments and other testing.• Should have knowledge about collection of an order.• Should have knowledge about Production Planning & Scheduling.• Should have knowledge about sourcing of material• Self-motivated and working ability, smart with fluent speaking and
writing ability in English.• Should have knowledge about costing & commercial activities an
so on.• Should have knowledge about fabric and thread consumption.
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What are the responsibilities of a Merchandiser?
• Sample development.• Price negotiation.• Order confirmation.• L.C. opening. [Import Section].• Sourcing of materials.• Material collection.• Quality checking.• Production planning and control.• Arranging final inspection.• Arranging shipment. [Export Section].
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What are the responsibilities of a Junior Merchandiser?
• Quantity: He should check the supplied goods’ quantity from inventory report.
• Quality: Should check the quality of the supplied goods and get approval from the concern buying office.
• P.P. (Pre Production) Meeting: the scheduling is done and target is also fixed up. Meeting is arranged by the Junior Merchandiser but headed by the Senior Merchandiser. Quality Manager, Maintenance Manage etc. may be present in this meeting.
• Supplying Order Sheet to individual production unit: After checking Quantity, Quality and after the Pre Production Meeting, the Junior Merchandiser prepares & supplies the Order Sheet to the production units.
• production Monitoring as per target & report to Senior Merchandiser.
• Arranging final inspection.
• Arranging shipment.
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Works involved in Merchandising
1) Searching the buyer, showing him the company profile and convince him to place order with the merchandiser’s factory.
2) If buyer shows interest, then collect PDM (Product Development Manual) from him.
3) Prepare costing according to the PDM and submit with the consent of the higher authority.
Practically a Merchandiser should do the following works
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4. Make sample and try to get approval.5. When the costing and samples are
approved, request the buyer to confirm the order and to confirm the total order qty. per style along with lead time.
6. Prepare a TNA(Time and Action) plan with the buyer to meet the shipment without any problem.
7. If everything is ok, then place order with the fabric and accessories supplier.
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Works involved in Merchandising8. Request the suppliers to submit sample to get
approval from buyer. Issue B/B L/C in favor of buyer against Sales Contract.
9. Request the buyer to provide color and size breakdown and request the supplier to produce as per this breakdown.
10. After getting approval, request the supplier for bulk production and in house the materials according the TNA.
11. Submit the sample according to the sample TNA provided by the buyer and approve them.
12. Arrange PP meeting and go to bulk production.
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13. Request the buyer to provide PO and to open Master L/C and adjust the sales contract against the master L/C.
14. Make packing list and get approval15. Submit all the documents to the
commercial dept. before at least one week of shipment.
16. Arrange final inspection as per consent of the buyer. Final inspection may be done by the buyer’s representative or any Third party organization.
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Works involved in Merchandising
17. If goods pass the inspection then inform the commercial dept. and dispatch the goods to the port to hand over to the CNF (Clearer and Forwarder)
18. CNF will forward the goods to the vessel.
19. After receiving the goods, if the buyer provides acceptance, collect payment as per L/C terms and conditions.
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Role & Necessity of a Merchandiser in Garments Trade
1. A Merchandiser plays vital role in garments trade.
2. Basically a Merchandiser is the heart of the trade.
3. The collaboration between buyer and factory, the synchronization of production & quality department is done by the Merchandisers.
4. Merchandisers are responsible for the total order and shipment.
Introduction to Garment Manufacturing
Garment manufacturing is an assembly- oriented activity
with a great range of raw materials, product types,
production volumes, supply chains, retail markets and
associated technologies.
Companies range from small family business to
multinationals.
The clothing industry is labour intensive industry.
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Departments in garment manufacturing unit
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Process flow in garment manufacturing unit
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Process flow in merchandising department
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Responsibilities of a merchandiser
Saturday, April 22, 2023 19MAJOR SIVA SSMPC
Fashion forecasting is a global career that focuses on upcoming trends. A fashion forecaster predicts the colors, fabrics, textures, materials, prints, graphics, beauty/grooming, accessories, footwear, street style, and other styles that will be presented on the runway and in the stores for the upcoming seasons. The concept applies to not one, but all levels of the fashion industry including haute couture, ready-to-wear, mass market, and street wear. Trend forecasting is an overall process that focuses on other industries such as automobiles, medicine, food and beverages, literature, and home furnishings. Fashion forecasters are responsible for attracting consumers and helping retail businesses and designers sell their brands. Today, fashion industry workers rely on the Internet to retrieve information on new looks, hot colors, celebrity wardrobes, and designer collections.
1. Short-term forecasting:
Short-term forecasting focuses on current events both domestically and internationally as well as pop culture in order to identify possible trends that can be communicated to the customer through the seasonal color palette, fabric, and silhouette stories. It gives fashion a modern twist to a classic look that intrigues our eyes. Some important areas to follow when scanning the environment are: current events, art, sports, science and technology. Short-term forecasting can also be considered fad forecasting.
2. Long-term forecasting:
Long-term forecasting is the process of analyzing and evaluating trends that can be identified by scanning a variety of sources for information. It is a fashion which lasts over two years. When scanning the market and the consumers, fashion forecasters must follow demographics of certain areas, both urban and suburban, as well as examine the impact on retail and its consumers due to the economy, political system, environment, and culture. Long-term forecasting seeks to identify: major changes in international and domestic demographics, shifts in the fashion industry along with market structures, consumer expectations, values, and impulsion to buy, new developments in technology and science, and shifts in the economic, political, and cultural alliances between certain countries.
Saturday, April 22, 2023 21MAJOR SIVA SSMPC
Product Development Process
The purpose of the product development process is to certify that the supplier understands and adheres to the specifications established for a specific product. Typically, a retailers objective is to provide their customers with the highest level of quality and service at the most competitive price. Clothing stores can meet this objective most successfully when their supplier fully understands the product development process. The development process is critical to ensuring customers satisfaction and minimizing customer returns. Most retailers approach to product development consists of a multi-step process that must be completed before finished goods are produced. Here are a few common steps in the 1. product development process.2. Product Review Meeting3. Submission of Trimming & Components4. Fit Testing5. Photo Samples6. Performance Testing
1. Product Review Meeting : Apparel buyers, merchandise managers, quality assurance personnel, or other members of the retailers staff can schedule a product review meeting with the supplier. This meeting should be conducted directly after the merchandise manager approves the concept for development. The purpose of the meeting is to review the preliminary product and package specifications and to ensure that the supplier is aware of the companies quality and product development procedures. The meeting should be of a technical nature. Therefore, the supplier should bring to the meeting the appropriate representation from their staff. Expect to discuss the manufacturing process in detail and address any potential manufacturing concerns or limitations in regard to manufacturing the particular item being discussed. In this meeting, the supplier should be provided a preliminary specification files with details of the garment that is to be manufactured. The supplier should be requested within a short period of time to formally acknowledge their understanding of the requirements. It is a good idea to obtain this in writing.
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2. Submission of Trimming:
Before apparel production begins, it is critical that the buyer approves all components that will comprise the finished product. Some buyers will require review of all trimming and others will require the approval of major trim components only. However, others may not require to view the thread. It is important to understand what the buying company wishes to review prior to production. Here are a few examples of items that may need to be submitted for review.
• Lab dips, strike offs (screen printed swatches), reeling of yarn in all colours.• Production fabric, knit downs, handlooms, etc. Most often required in a large enough
size to contain full pattern repeat.• Care labels & main labels• Clothing Components: Buttons, lace, zippers, interlinings, shoulder pads, elastics,
hangers, hangtags, price tickets, etc.• Packaging: ASN labels, chip board, jet clips, tissue paper, polybags, etc.• In addition to trimming, you will most likely be required to submit Fit Samples, pre-
production garment samples, testing samples, TOP Samples (Top of Production Samples), etc. You may also be required to submit documents during this phase such as flammability documents etc.
Saturday, April 22, 2023 24MAJOR SIVA SSMPC
3. Fit Testing:
some fashion companies will require fit testing as part of the product development process. In order to ensure proper fit, steps must be taken to evaluate the garments comfort. This process is to both monitor the manufacturer, but also to make sure the original size specifications developed was proper. Even if the manufacturer follows the spec file perfectly, during the fit process the fit technician may discover that adjustments may be needed. Some companies will conduct the fit testing on live fit models and others will do the testing in fit forms (mannequins). The merchandisers should advise the supplier regarding which size garments they wish to review for fit. Some companies will review only one size, and others like to review the smallest and largest size. For example, if production will be ordered in a scale including small thru double XL, they may require one sample in size small and one in XXL for the fit review. Again, the retailer (or company purchasing your product), should advise you regarding the sizes they require for review.
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4. Photo Samples:
some retailers will require photo samples. These samples are utilized for developing catalogs or advertising. Photo samples typically do not require all final trimming such as brand labels, but the outside appearance of the garment must be in correct silhouette and color. The photos must represent exactly what the finished product will look like when shipped (the outside visual appearance; does not need price tickets, hangers, (etc.).
Unfortunately, retailers can not wait for bulk production samples because catalog photos and advertising photos are needed far before the finished garments are ready to ship from the factory. Again, not all retailers need photography samples. By the way, some companies use digital fabric printing to make samples more quickly if they have an urgent photo shoot pending.
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5. Performance Testing: This is a very important aspect of the product development process. All products developed must pass performance testing requirements. It is the suppliers responsibility to ensure that all products produced meet or exceed the buyers performance standards. Before entering into an agreement to manufacturer apparel, be certain to fully understand the quality standard requirements requested by your buyers. It is normal practice to have both fabric and garments tested before product is delivered. Typically, the testing is done at a third party testing facility such as SGS,ITS, etc. Often times the buyer is the one to assign the testing lab. Some times the retailer (buyer) will submit the garments for testing. However, often the buyer will require that the supplier submits the fabric and garments directly to the testing laboratory and then provide them with copies of the test results. Testing will be done prior to production and after final production is complete. Many retailers will also do surprise testing on garments after they arrive into the stores. This technique is used to discourage suppliers from submitting garments for testing that are not actually the same quality as final production.
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Responsibilities of sampling department
1. Getting clarifications about style details from merchandiser.
2. Checking pattern’s workability.
3. Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s
approval.
4. Informing quality related problems, encountered during
preparing samples, to QC.
5. Minimizing operations and consumption.
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Types of sample prepared
Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609
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30MAJOR SIVA SSMPC
Types of sample prepared
Source: http://www.textiletoday.com.bd/magazine/609
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Saturday, April 22, 2023 32MAJOR SIVA SSMPC
Sewing process flow
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Sewing department
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Sewing department
Production system: Make through system
It is the traditional method of manufacture in which an operator makes right
through one garment at a time.
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Sewing departmentProduction system: Conventional bundle system
1. Sewing machines are arranged in lines.
2. The work flows from the central (store) area to the first
machine, from the first machine back to the store, and
then on to the next machine, and so forth.
3. A distributor stationed at the store is responsible for
receiving and dispatching the work.
4. The work in progress is in the form of bundles.
5. These bundles may be put on to a tray, a box, or a bag,
or the garment parts may be wrapped and tied.
Saturday, April 22, 2023 37MAJOR SIVA SSMPC
Sewing departmentProduction system: Clump system
1. A worker collects a clump of materials from the
worktable and carries out the first operation.
2. After he has completed his part of the work, he
returns it to the table.
3. A worker for the second operation then continues
the work and so on.
4. The process is ' collection - work -return' continues
until the whole garment has been assembled.
Saturday, April 22, 2023 38MAJOR SIVA SSMPC
Sewing departmentProduction system: Progressive bundle system
1. Sewing operations are laid out in sequence.
2. Each operator receives a bundle, does his work, reties
the bundle and passes it to the next operator.
3. There is a storage facility such as rack, bin or table for
storing the inter-process work between each
operation.
4. The work is routed by means of tickets.
5. This system is the most widely used system in the
garment industry today. It is used in shirt factories,
jeans factories, jacket factories, etc.
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Sewing departmentProduction system: Flexible flow system1. A section of sewing operators, each with a supply of work
in a rack at the side, work at an engineered work place.
2. The machines are laid out in such a way that a flow of
work can be planned using the correct number of
operators in sequence.
3. For style A garments, the work distributed after operation
1 can be distributed to the two operators performing
operation 2. On completion, the work from both workers
is then sent to operator 3. After operation 3, the work is
continued by the two operators performing operation 4
and so on.
4. When a new style is to be loaded on to the system, the
number of operators needed for each operation must be
planned in detail to ensure a balanced output.
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Sewing department
Production system: Straight line system
1. The manufacturing process is broken down into several
operations, which take the same time to complete.
2. Groups of operators are required to handle only
individual garments.
3. The garment parts pass from one operator to the next,
until the garment has been completely made up by one
group of operators.
4. The central distribution unit may be a fixed table or a a
conveyor belt (its speed will be set to suit the cycle
time).
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Sewing department
Production system: Synchro flow system
1. Garment parts of the same size and color are
processed separately.
2. Different garment parts can be processed
simultaneously for assembling.
3. At the same time, collars, sleeves, cuffs, pockets, etc.,
from other lines also go down a central line.
4. The different garment parts are then processed
together to form completed garments.
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Sewing department
Production system: Unit production system
A unit production system (UPS) is a computer-controlled production line.
It is a type of line layout that uses an overhead transport system to move individual
units from work-station to work station for assembly.
All the parts for a single garment are advanced through the production line together
by means of a hanging carrier that travels along an overhead conveyor.
Production operations are completed without removing the parts from the carrier.
Automated materials handling replaces the traditional system of bundling, tying and
untying, and manually moving garment parts.
Electronic data can be collected from workstations, which provides payroll and
inventory data, immediate tracking of styles, and costing and performance data for
prompt decision.
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Sewing departmentProduction system: Modular manufacturing
system
1. Modular manufacturing groups operators into teams,
or modules.
2. The team works on one/a few garment at a time
instead of a bundle of garments.
3. The operators stand /sit at their stations and rotate
to different machines as they work, becoming
familiar with multiple steps in producing the
garment.
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