Apparel Construction Review. Sewing Machine Needle thread + bobbin thread= stitch To bring up...
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Transcript of Apparel Construction Review. Sewing Machine Needle thread + bobbin thread= stitch To bring up...
Sewing Machine Needle thread + bobbin thread= stitch
To bring up bobbin thread, hold needle thread while turning hand wheel
Replace needle with flat side to back
Loud/unusual noise=stop sewing!
Sewing Machine Parts Machine Parts/Function –
thread guide feed dog Tension stitch length regulator take-up lever presser bar lifter hand wheel
Equipment Scissors vs. Shears
Needles vs. Pins
Seam Ripper, seam gauge, tape measure pinking shears, safety pin, interfacing
Pressing Plain seams – press open
Serged seams – press to one side
Press on the back/wrong side
Iron Temperature based on fabric type
Pressing Tools Pressing Ham = darts, curved seams
Sleeve Board –looks like small ironing bd.
Seam Roll – won’t leave marks from edges
Needle Board = for corduroy, velvet
Pattern Symbols Know how to measure the grain line
Place-on-fold arrow
Symbols help you cut, mark, sew
Fabric Selvage=smooth finish, won’t ravel
Lengthwise=parallel to selvage, straight grain, runs vertical on a person
Crosswise – runs selvage to selvage
Bias = 45 degree angle, greatest stretch
Layout Layout ALL pattern pieces before cutting
Cutting layouts illustrated on guide sheet
Cut with fabric flat on table
Cut notches OUT, away from the pattern
Pattern Envelope Fabric yardage chart – on back
Fewer pieces= easier pattern
Notions=thread, buttons, zipper, elastic…
Multi-size patterns=several sizes on one
The Pattern Press with dry iron before pinning to
fabric
Printed on each piece = pattern #, size, view, name & number of piece
Know all symbols (see handout)
The Pattern Size Pattern sizes are not the same as RTW
Choose size for shirt based on bust msmt.
Choose size for skirt based on hip msmt.
Pattern alterations=lengthen/shorten, etc.
Sewing Right sides of fabric together
Seams = 5/8” wide
Regular stitch=2 ½ Basting= 4 or 5
Backstitching – only 3-5 stitches
Sewing Techniques Staystitching – sewing one layer of
fabric to prevent stretching
Insert elastic with a safety pin
Trim vs. clip
Sew at a slow, constant speed, guide fabric…don’t pull.
Serger Cut, sew, overlock the edge
Can’t replace a regular machine Can’t sew over pins or backstitch
2 needle threads, upper & lower looper
Each thread has its own tension regulator