AOMORI · The lofty Ou mountain range, with its famously rugged Hakkoda peaks, divides the...

Wonders of Snow and Ice

Hot Spring Haunts

Local Festival Spirit

AOMORI 　　　in Winter

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Aomori CityAOMORI PREF.

Japan’s eighth-largest prefecture, Aomori occupies an area of nearly 9,644.55 square kilometers at the northernmost end of the country’s main island, Honshu. Just across the Tsugaru Strait to the north is the island of Hokkaido. On either side of the prefecture are the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Japan. The lofty Ou mountain range, with its famously rugged Hakkoda peaks, divides the prefecture down the middle, creating two markedly different climactic areas. In winter, dry, clear weather pre-vails in the eastern half of the prefecture—the Pacific Ocean side. The western half gets heavy snow-fall as cold, wet air from the Sea of Japan bounces off the Ou mountains. Ice formations, deep snows, and frosty winds create spectacles of natural beauty that make the region a splendid destination for fans of winter landscapes.　　Aomori is celebrated for its agricultural products, particularly its apples, which have been pro-duced here since the late 1800s. In fact, the apple blossoms that blanket the hills in spring are the prefectural flower. Being surrounded by seacoasts on three sides, the prefecture is known for its tasty ocean bounty as well, especially flounder, scallops, and cuttlefish.　　Handicrafts are another specialty. Tsugaru lacquerware, yahata-uma horse figurines, kokeshi dolls, kogin-sashi embroidered textile accessories, and Tsugaru biidoro glass showcase traditional skills handed down over generations of local artisans.

Aomori in a Nutshell

Aomori Awaits You

Tsugaru Strait

Shimokita Peninsula

Mutsu Bay

Aomori Bay

Aomori

Tsugaru Peninsula

Sea of Japan

Shirakami Mountains

Hirosaki

Hakkoda Mountains

Oirase Gorge

Lake Towada

Hachinohe

Sapporo

Misawa

Pacific Ocean

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Unspoiled natural landscape is Aomori’s greatest treasure. Sometimes-fierce, always awe-inspiring natural landscapes of winter offer experi-ence without parallel anywhere. Best of all, comfortable access by train or automobile takes you directly to entrancing vistas and close-up sights of nature’s winter wonders.

Aomori is a paradise for skiers and snowboarders, with perfect powder snow waiting on its numerous ski slopes. Hiking in the Shirakami mountains and Oirase Gorge, sightseeing by horseback in the woods around Lake Towada, tours of the snow spectacles for which the region is famous are among the various activities to be enjoyed around the prefecture.

Wondrous Winterscapes

Activities Galore for Enjoying the Snow

Aomori is blessed by the bounty of nature, and everything grown on the land and harvested from its seas is delicious. Cuttlefish, scallops, mackerel, and cod, as well as sea urchin and other seafood top the list from the seas. Apples and garlic lead the crops from the land. Such fresh ingredients, simply prepared, are the stuff of the numerous dishes that welcome visitors with warmth and hospitality. The rice and sake of Aomori are famously delicious, assuring you the most pleasant dining experiences.

Cold Season Delicacies of Land and Sea

It’s true that people in Aomori don’t soak in the bathtub much at home. They go out to the onsen—the public baths fed by natural hot springs. People know well the power of a good bath to warm the body and consider it the best way of staying healthy. The hot springs—with sometimes clear, sometimes cloudy, even creamy waters—are diverse. One special pleasure in touring Aomori in winter is the search for just the right spa for you.

Hot Spring Diversity

The festivals of winter are occasions of fun, for reveling in the cold and the snow, and at the same time observing traditional beliefs, celebrat-ing the deities ushering in the coming of spring, and praying for abun-dant harvest for the year. The festivals combine aspects of the new in Aomori as it is today with the depth and richness of historical heritage. Most of the festivals are open to all participants, so don’t miss the chance to join in and add your part to the excitement.

Join the Fun of Winter Festivals

From left: Outings into the mountains on horseback continue even in winter; at the Lake Towada Winter's Tale festival held in February, fireworks mark the close of the event each night during the period of the festival.

From left: Snow-clad trees on the slopes of Mt. Hakkoda; a frozen waterfall in Oirase Gorge; a bustling Aomori marketplace; an inn deep in the mountains operating without electricity.

Left: Aomori Bay Bridge lit up with blue illumination.Right: Traditional crafts of Aomori prefecture include yahata-uma, lamps made by recycling nebuta float parts, and nebuta float decorations.

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Winter is harsh at Lake Towada, but in fleeting moments the clouds part, and the encircling snow-covered mountains reflect upon the waters mirroring the deep blue of the sky. Aomori prefec-ture takes great pride in landscapes like this that display nature’s grandeur. Filling a double caldera created by volcanic activity eons ago, the lake is surrounded by an outer rim rising 600 to 1,000 meters and a vast forested wilderness. Volcanic activity is said to have begun 200,000 years ago and the caldera was formed following a series of six major eruptions that took place between 40,000 and 13,000 years ago. The most recent eruption on record took place in 915, devastating an area 20 kilometers around the volcano and spewing ash that fell as far as Kyoto more than 1,100 kilometers away. Japan’s third deepest lake, Towada’s waters plunge 326.8 meters, so it rarely ices over complete-ly in winter. Its deep waters augment all the more the stunning contrasts of the lake’s surface under clear winter skies and the ancient furrows of the surrounding mountains.

Left: The swan is Aomori prefecture’s symbol bird. The swans migrate to this region from Siberia each year in October and can be seen in various places in Aomori until the latter part of March. Especially famous for flocks of swans are the town of Hiranai on the Natsudomari peninsula, the area around Oirase Gorge and Lake Towada, and the town of Fujisaki in the Tsugaru region. Right: Snow-covered ridges and shifting clouds reflect on the waters of Lake Towada. Sights like this are the special preserve of winter.

Lake Towada Paragon of Winter

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To the Yasumiya area at Lake Towada (Page 24, map ) By Tohoku Shinkansen: From Shichinohe Towada Station about 1 hour 30 minutes by car.* By air: From Misawa Airport about 1 hour 30 minutes by car. By air: From Aomori Airport about 2 hours by car. By Aoimori Railway: From Aomori Station to Misawa Station about 1 hour 10 minutes and from Misawa Station about 1 hour 30 minutes by car; from Hachinohe Station to Misawa Station 19 minutes and from Misawa Station about 1 hour 30 minutes by car. * In winter, there is no regular bus service, so transportation is by taxi.

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The best place to enjoy strolling around the shores of Lake Towada is the area known as Yasumiya. Many of the shops there are closed during the winter season, but from the time of the Lake Towada Winter’s Tale festival (see page 22) held here from early to late February, some of the shops reopen and the area becomes more lively. For a pleasant walk in the clean and bracing air, follow the “Statue of Maid-ens Path” and enter the “Path to Good Fortune,” which takes you to Towada Shrine.

The Oirase Gorge (pages 8–10) was the result of a rupture in the caldera wall of the volcano. The current flowing into the gorge is very strong, so many attempts to stock the lake with fish had failed, as the fish could not return to the lake to spawn. Former miner and developer of the region Sadayuki Wainai made a determined effort, how-wwever, and finally succeeded in 1905, when fry of a species known as princess trout (himemasu) he had released two and a half years earlier, returned to the lake. Ever since the fish has been the pride of the lake and a favorite of local cuisine, either grilled with salt or served sashimi style. The Lake Towada Shokudo diner serves a princess trout set lunch throughout the Towada Winter’s Tale festival period (see page 22).

Left: At left, in this view from the “Statue of Maidens Path,” Ebisu Daikoku Island, actually a pair of islands formed from lava in one of the mountain’s eruptions eons ago, rises out of the lake. Ebisu and Daikoku are deities represent-ing bounty in Japanese lore. The red roofs appearing among the trees are shrines dedicated to the two deities. The picturesque pines, their roots firmly entwined in the rocks, are a local species of Japanese white pine (Pinus parviflora).

“Statue of Maidens” is a commemorative monument by the well-known poet and sculptor Kotaro Takamura created in 1953 to celebrate the fifteenth anniversary of the designation of Lake Towada as a national park. Takamura was by then retired, but he was so impressed by the beauty of Lake Towada when he visited that he agreed to take on the commission. One of his masterpieces, it was to be his last work. “Gazing at my reflection in the lake,” said Takamura, “I felt the deeper understanding that can be obtained when we gaze at ourselves face to face. That is why I placed the two figures facing each other.” (Page 24, map )

Among the legends associated with Lake Towada, the source of water that sustains agriculture in the surrounding countryside, is the story of Hachinotaro (also Hachirotaro), a man who violated an agreement with his friends and was turned into a serpent. The legend goes that the serpent dammed the stream leading out of the lake and took up residence as the guardian of its waters. Towada Shrine serves as the locus of local folk beliefs in such deities of water (suijin). The original shrine was built here in the Heian period (around 800), and follows the sturdy traditions of ancient shrine architec-ture. Even during the deep snows of winter, the shrine can be reached using a side path. (Page 24, map )

“Princess Trout” and New Life in the Lake

Sightseeing around Lake Towada

Towada Shokudo (Page 24, map )486 Yasumiya, Towadakohan, Okuse, Towada; tel. 0176-75-2768 (Japanese only)Open every day March to November; open for year-end/New Year and Lake Towada Winter's Tale Festival 9 AM–2:30 PM (last order 2:15 PM).Grilled Lake Towada Princess Trout Set Meal ¥1,200; Lake Towada Princess Trout Sashimi Set Meal ¥1,200; Marinated Lake Towada Princess Trout Rice Bowl ¥1,330. (Special winter-season discount prices for late November to early April period.) Served while supplies last. Other dishes include udon or soba noodles served with princess trout.

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Aomori is the home of the indigenous Nanbu horse, now extinct, but bred in the region until the early twentieth century. Today the horses found in Aomori are mainly of the Dosanko breed, which are a Hokkaido breed interbred with Western horses, and they continue to be a familiar part of daily life in the prefecture. The Towada Horseback Riding Club has about 40 horses, offering rides for beginners and more experienced riders. Horseback treks, offered by reservation throughout the four seasons, are an especially pleasant way to enjoy winter in the Lake Towada region.

Arts Towada, a city-wide initiative to rejuvenate Towada's urban center through art, is unlike any other. Towada’s entire main avenue—home to its city hall as well as a general hospital, fire station, and other public facilities—is transformed into an art museum. At the heart of the initiative is the Towada Art Center, opened in 2008 and designed by Ryue Nishizawa, of the internationally acclaimed architectural firm SANAA. The Center has a permanent collection of 38 artworks created spe-cifically for its indoor and outdoor spaces. Choi Jeong Hwa's colorful Flower Horse, a nod to Towada's rich history associated with horses, stands just outside the en-trance, adding warmth to the snowy streetscape.

Snow Country Trekking on Horseback

Experience Art Like Never Before

Towada Horseback Riding Club (Page 24, map )115-2 Saihaba, Sanbongi, Towada; tel. 0176-26-2945 (Japanese only); www.towada-joba.com Hours: 9 AM–5 PM (closed Tuesdays)By Tohoku Shinkansen: From Shichinohe Towada Station or Misawa Station about 30 minutes by car; from Hachinohe Station about 1 hour by car.By Aoimori Railway: From Aomori Station about 1 hour 30 minutes by car.

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Towada Art Center (Page 24, map )10-9 Nishi Nibancho, Towada; tel. 0176-20-1127 (Japanese only)towadaartcenter.com9 AM–5 PM (last entry 4:30 PM)Closed Mondays (open when Monday is a national holiday), closed for year-end and New Year holidays; occasionally closed for maintenance, repairs, and special event use.Admission: Permanent exhibition, adults ¥510; special exhibitions ¥600 yen (combined ticket ¥1,000 yen); children 18 and under admitted free of charge.By Tohoku Shinkansen: From Shichinohe Towada Station, take Towada Kanko Dentetsu Bus leaving from south exit No. 1 bus stop, about 35 minutes (get off at Towada Gendai Bijutsukan Mae stop); by car about 30 minutes.

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Photography by Kuniya Oyamada

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Ice Arts in

Oirase Gorge

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Some 15,000 years ago, the rim of the Towada crater ruptured and the waters inside the caldera flooded forth, creating what is now known as Oirase Gorge, with its waterfalls and rapids of every size and proportion extending over a distance of about 14 kilometers. In winter, ice-crystals form over the falls, creating amazing stalactites, columns, and frozen flows. The early morning after a snowfall is a good time to enjoy the sky’s added touches to nature’s art. Fresh powder dusts the fine branches of the oaks of the forest and softly caps the rocks here and there in the stream. Walking through the woods—its quiet enlivened by the chirping calls of the brown dipper birds (kawagarasu)—you suddenly find yourself gazing up at one of nature’s fantastic ice sculptures. Their powerful forms, glistening blue and white, are symbols of the rigors and the beauty of Aomori in winter.

Route to the Yakeyama entrance to Oirase Gorge from the city of Towada. (Page 24, map )By Tohoku Shinkansen: From Hachinohe Station about 1 hour 10 minutes by car; from Shin-Aomori Station about 1 hour 30 minutes by car. By air: From Misawa Airport about 1 hour 10 minutes by car; from Aomori Airport about 1 hour 30 minutes by car.

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Towadako (Lake Towada)

Aomori

Ouse

Samidare no nagare(Samidare Rapids)

Ashura no nagare (Ashura Rapids)

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Tobigane nonagare (Tobigane Rapids)

Shiranuno no taki (Shiranuno Falls)

Shirogane no nagare (Shirogane Cascade)

Shiraginu no taki (Shiraginu Falls)

Shiraito no taki (Shiraito Falls)

Kudan no taki (Kudan Falls)

Furo no taki (Furo Falls)

Choshi otaki (Choshi Falls)

Goryo no taki (Goryo Falls)

Manryo no nagare (Manryo Cascade)

Samusawa no nagare (Samusawa Cascade)

Shimai no taki (Shimai Falls)

Tomoshiraga no taki (Tomoshiraga Falls)

Kumoi no taki (Kumoi Falls)

Sensuji no taki (Sensuji Falls)

Iwasuge no taki (Iwasuge Falls)

Tamadare no taki (Tamadare Falls)

Heisei no nagare (Heisei Rapids)

Kujuku-shima (“Ninety-Nine” Islands)

Makadoiwa (Makado Rock)

Ishigedo no se(Ishigedo Shoal)Byobuiwa

(Byobu Rock)

Fudoiwa (Fudo Rock)

Senryoiwa (Senryo Rock)

Shimeikei(Shimei Ravine)

Hoshino ResortsOirase Keiryu Hotel (Pages 12–13)

Yakeyama

Towada

Oirase Gorge Walking Map

Almost the entire area of Oirase Gorge falls within Towada Hachimantai National Park, a protected zone designated for preservation of the plant and animal life as well as the beautiful landscape of snow and ice. Along the river’s course are famoussights such as Ashura Rapids and the dynamic Choshi Falls, which is approxi-mately 7-meters high and 20-meters across. In some cases you will need to wear snowshoes; please consult your hotel for rental equipment.

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onsen country—home to many different types of hot spin ample supply in different parts of the prefecture. Some areas are spas with numerous inns and hotels clustered together; others are to be found deep in remote valleys where electric power lines havextended. Soaking in a hot bath in the midst of a snow-covered lanone of the special treats of the winter season. Aomori invites you thot springs, where the exotic enjoyments of winter await you.

South and Shimokita Area

1. Shimofuro2. Okuyagen3. Yunokawa4. Tonami5. Takahoko6. Makado7. Tohoku8. Komaki9. Sawasato

Lake Towada Hot Spring Village Aoni Hot Spring

Tsuta Hot SpringThis has been a hot spring bathing spot formore than a thousand years. The Tsuta OnsenRyokan, an inn built here 108 years ago, has been serving customers ever since. The oakwood bath is built directly over the hot spring source, and thewaters bubble forththrough slats in the bathtub floor.

Deep in the snowy mountains is Aoni Onsen, a secluded inn known as “Lamplight Lodge.” As the name suggests, this inn offers guests the experience of lodgings by lamplight. Dining on local cuisine served in the warm glow of lamps and soaking in any of four different waters, you can find an Aomori-style break from the always-online life.

Secluded Hot Spring Retreats

Aomori, Towada, and Hakkoda Area

1. Asamushi2. Hakkoda3. Kansuizawa4. Jogakura5. Sukayu6. Tsuta7. Oirase Keiryu8. Towadakohan9. Kuroishi Onsenkyo

Tsugaru and West Coast Area

1. Hyakuzawa2. Romantopia3. Minamida4. Ikarigaseki5. Hiraka6. Owani7. Nishimeyamura8. Inagaki9. Tappizaki

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This cluster of hot spring baths is located at the Towada city end of Oirase Gorge. Close by is the Towada Onsen ski and snowboard resort, con-venient for sightseeing and recreation. Information: Oirase Keiryukan, tel. 0176-74-1233 (Japanese only)

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(Page 24, map ) Information: Tsuta Onsen Ryokan, 1 Tsutanoyu, Okuse, Towada; [email protected] Tohoku Shinkansen: From Hachinohe Station about 2 hours by car. By Tohoku Shinkansen: From Shichi-nohe Towada Station, courtesy busavailable (advance reservations needed).

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Access & Data(Page 24, map ) Information: “Lamplight Lodge” Aoni Onsen, 1-7 Aonisawa Taki-no-ue, Okiura, Kuroishi; tel. 0172-54-8588www.yo.rim.or.jp/˜aoni/By air: From Aomori Airport about 1 hourby taxi (get off at Michi-no-Eki Nijinoko Koen stop); about 20 minutes by regular shuttle bus.

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Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel

Top: Beneath the massive suspended Mori no Shinwa (Forest Myth) chimney designed by world-renowned sculptor Taro Okamoto a well-stoked hearth (right) fills the main Lounge with the special magic of a wood-burning fireplace. Wall-to-wall windows bring the panorama of the riverside forest up close. Snowfall in the forest at dusk forms a tapestry of nature’s artistry (center). The Kashin (River God) fireplace in the west-wing Lounge also by Taro Okamoto, depicts the splash of the rushing river transformed into nymphs (left). Lounge tea time (coffee, tea, sweets) is 9 AM to 6 PM and bar time (drinks) is 8 to 11 PM .

Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel (Page 24, map )231 Tochikubo, Okuse, Towada; tel. 050-3786-1144 (International call; Hoshino Resorts reser-vations center), www.oirase-keiryuu.jpBy Tohoku Shinkansen: From Hachinohe Station 1hour 30 minutes by car (courtesy bus pick-up by advance reservation); from Shin Aomori Station 1 hour 30 minutes by car; from Shichinohe Towada Station about 50 minutes by car. By air: From Aomori Airport about 1 hour 30 minutes by car; from Misawa Airport 1 hour 20 minutes by car.

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Oirase Keiryu Hot Spring

Located near the Yakeyama end of Oirase Gorge within the boundaries of the Towada Hachimantai National Park, Hoshino Resorts Oirase Keiryu Hotel pres-ents lodgings for “the slow life on the riverbank.” Perfectly situated for exploring the Lake Towada and Oirase Gorge area, the hotel opened its doors for the winter season for the first time in 2017. Dedicated to showing guests the many beauties and pleasures that can only be enjoyed in winter, the hotel operates a shuttle bus supporting walks along a 14-kilometer stretch of the beautiful Oirase stream. With an activity staff to help guests enjoy the attractions of the surrounding area to their fullest, the hotel offers a range of services including advice about the weather and snow conditions, rental footwear, “Mori no Gakko” nature appreciation classes (in Japanese), and guided nature walks along the stream.

From 2017, moreover, a new outdoor hot spring bath (rotenburo) was opened. Built right within view of one of the frozen cascades for which Oirase is famous, the new bath joins together hot spring amenities and attractions of the landscape that cannot be found anywhere else in Japan. Also extraordinary are the newly added Japanese-style and Western-style twin rooms on the mountain-stream side, each with a private outdoor bath on their terraces.

The hotel’s Seiyo Zensho Oirase restaurant serves French-style meals, but with the added attraction of Japanese-inspired elements. Guests will enjoy excellent dining all year around, along with plentiful choices of high-quality sake and fine Tohoku vinted wines.

Amenities to Augment Your Enjoyment of the Snow and Ice

At the Seiyo Zensho Oirase Restaurant opened in April 2016, treat yourself to the nine-course Western-style kaiseki meal, made with fresh ingredients grown at local farms and herb gardens. There is also a buffet-style restau-rant called the “Aomori Ringo Kitchen.” The menu features dishes made with apples, Aomori’s specialty, along with many other colorful dishes. Note: Depending on supply, ingredients may originate outside the Tohoku region.

The Japanese-style rooms on the mountain-stream side each have a private outdoor bath (left). The monochrome world of snow-lit forest filled with the soft sounds of flowing water is a scene set for ultimate peace of mind. Indulge yourself also in the luxury of any of the hotel’s two large hot spring baths including one out of doors. Above: The guestrooms offer creature comforts with warm Aomori-style hospitality, quiet, private times to complement your schedule of outdoor activities.

AomoriOnsen

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Experience Winter in the

Hakkoda Mountains

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Hakkoda is a wilderness mountain area covered with deciduous and evergreen forests in the Towada Hachimantai National Park. In winter the average tempera-ture on its peaks (the highest over 1,500 meters or 5,000 feet) falls to between -10 and -15°C (14–5°F). In the frigid air of the upper elevations of Hakkoda’s peaks, the trees covered in frost and snow turn into breathtaking “snow monsters” march-ing across the snow-white slopes. One of the peaks, Tamoyachi, has several down-hill ski courses covering 3.5 to 6.3 kilometers and tour routes through the moun-tains. Skiers and snowboarders gather here from not only all over Japan but other countries for the thrill of sliding in such an exotic winterscape. Attractions of many kinds await you on Hakkoda, with its long winter sports season extending from late November to mid-May.

Above: From mid-slope to near the ridges are vast forests of Aomori todomatsu, or Maries’ fir, designated as the symbol tree of the city of Aomori. Here skiers slalom through the exotic scenery of “snow monsters” covered with frost and snow. Right: Deciduous forest of beech and other trees covers the mountains from the foothills to mid-slope. Towada Hachimantai National Park Hakkoda (Page 24, map ).

Experience Winter in the

Hakkoda Mountains

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Ropeway into the Snowbound ForestThe frost-covered trees ( juhyo) of Hakkoda are created when snow blown by strong winds blankets the fir trees and freezes in place. These “snow monsters” bring you face to face with nature’s over-whelming power. Located as they are near the high ridges of the mountains, they would ordinarily be out of reach for most sight-seers. The Hakkoda ropeway operates all year round, lifting visitors to snow-covered heights even during the deep winter months. You don’t have to be a skier to see these winter wonders up close.

Snow piled up from ploughing to clear the roads forms corridors, creating sights like the one pictured here in the Hakkoda area during the winter. The route be-tween Hakkoda Sukayu to the Yachi Hot Springs, closed during the winter season, is reopened in April. The “Hakkoda Walk” is organized to traverse the route, ex-tending about 8 kilometers, with walls like this up to 7 meters high on both sides of the route. For information, contact the Aomori City Tourist Information Cen-ter, tel. 017-723-4670; www.atca.info (page 24, map ).

Corridors through the SnowOne of the 101-person capacity “Hakkoda Ropeway” gondolas. A riveting landscape unfolds below. Departures, beginning at 9 AM and ending at 3:40 PM in winter (4:20 PM in summer), are at 15- to 20-minute intervals.

Access & DataHakkoda Ropeway (Page 24, map )1-12 Kansuizawa, Arakawa, Aomori; tel. 017-738-0343 (Japanese only); www.hakkoda-ropeway.jpBy Tohoku Shinkansen: From Shin-Aomori Station about 1 hour 10 minutes by JR “Mizuumi” Bus* (get off at Hakkoda Ropeway stop) or about 50 minutes by car.By Tohoku Main JR Line: From Aomori Station about 1 hour 20 minutes by JR “Mizuumi” Bus (get off at Hakkoda Ropeway stop) or about 45 minutes by car. *Buses from Aomori and Shin-Aomori stations to the Hakkoda Ropeway run regularly throughout the winter.

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Sukayu Onsen Ryokan

Sukayu is a hot spring first established here more than 300 years ago. The legend of the spa goes that a woodcutter in the mountains discovered it when he observed a deer soothing its injuries in the waters. In 1954, Sukayu became the first spa to be designated as a National Hot Spring Health Resort. The Sukayu Onsen Ryokan inn is in the simple, old-fashioned style of hot spring spa. Its huge 264.5-squaremeter bath is famous as the Hiba Senninburo (“1,000-person” Cypress Bath). The massive roof, skillfully constructed without supporting posts interrupting the space, covers bathtubs featuring four different hot spring types, their cloudy waters offering deep relaxation for mind and body. Entry to the baths is not restricted to guests at the inn, so visitors to Hakkoda are urged to drop by after an exciting day seeing the Aomori winter on the mountain. The main baths are mixed bathing; for separate gender bathing, look for the “Tama no yu” sign.

Healing Waters Tapped for 300 Years Await You in the Deep Snows of Hakkoda

AomoriOnsen

Sukayu Hot Spring

Sukayu Onsen Ryokan (Page 24 , map )1 Hakkodasan, Aomori, tel. 017-738-6400 (Japanese only); www.sukayu.jp/TopsDay-use bathing: Hiba Senninburo open 7 AM–5:30 PM (8–9 AM is women only); Tama no Yu open 9 AM–5 PM. Single bath use ¥600 yen; both baths ¥1,000 (including rental towel). By Tohoku Shinkansen: From Shin-Aomori Station about 1 hour 10 minutes by JR bus (get off at the Sukayu Onsen stop).By Tohoku JR Main Line: From Aomori Station about 1 hour 30 minutes by JR bus (get off at the Sukayu Onsen stop).By air: From Aomori Airport about 1 hour by car. *Buses from Shin-Aomori and Aomori stations operate throughout the winter season.

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Hoshino Resorts Aomoriya

The Komaki hot springs of Misawa are known for silky textured, cloudy waters. On the grounds of the Hoshino Resorts Aomoriya is the area’s original springs, called the Motoyu, which is open to visitors and local residents alike (page 24, map ). For local people, who “go to the onsen” almost every day, the Motoyu is nearly an extension of their homes. One of the pleasures of these baths is not only warming your body to the core, but getting a feel for the locale as you listen to the cadences of speech in the local dialect echoing through the steam. The other baths at the Aomoriya include the Ukiyu (“Float-ing” Bath) and the Hibayu (Cypress Bath), and the Ashiyu (Foot Bath), the latter reserved for the exclusive use of Aomoriya guests.

The Aomoriya’s Ukiyu (above) is an outdoor bath built, as if “floating,” out into the water of a natural pond. On winter nights, nebuta festival lanterns project their dynamic lights and colors over the pond, creating a magical scene. The chance to hear the elegant and evocative sound of the Japanese flute fue( ) echoing beneath star-filled skies is not to be missed (live performances held twice each evening at 6 PM and 9:45 PM). The Aomoriya is notable as a resort where, in one place, you can experience attractions from all over Aomori prefecture. Stalls provide spaces for eating and drinking around the periphery of a room decorated in a festive at-ttmosphere, and every evening performances of ohayashi festival music played on ithe flute and drum, shamisen music, and other special events offer guests lively entertainments within the hotel. Such are the sounds, smells, tastes, and hospitality that make an Aomori journey memorable.

Winter Oirase Gorge Tour

Other Tours Organized by Aomoriya

Nature guide-led, half-day tour of the Oirase Gorge introduced on pages 8 to 10 above. Held daily from December through March.

Fee: Adults ¥4,800; children ¥2,500.

Hakkoda Juhyo (Snow Monster) Tour

Guide-led tour of Mt. Hakkoda and the Sennin Buro bath at Sukayu Onsen introduced on pages 14 to 17. Held three times a week between January and March. Fee: Adults ¥7,500; children ¥4,500.Note: Includes lunch and bath fees.

Aomoriya Winter Adventure Tours

AomoriOnsen

Komaki Hot Springs

Hoshino Resorts Aomoriya (Page 24, map )56 Furumagiyama, Misawa; tel. 050-3786-1144 (international call; Hoshino Resorts reserva-tion center); noresoreaomoriya.jpMotoyu hours: 5 AM–11 PM; adults ¥450, children (ages 7–18) ¥150, preschoolers (ages 4 through 6) ¥60; 3 years and under no charge. Ukiyu and Hibayu hours: 8 AM–11 PM; adults ¥1,500, children (ages 4–18) ¥750; 3 years and under no charge. Note: All the baths are free of charge for Aomoriya guests.By Tohoku Shinkansen: From Hachinohe Station about 1 hour by car (courtesy bus pick-up byadvance reservation); from Shin-Aomori Station about 2 hours by car. By Aoimori Railway: From Misawa Station about 10-minute walk (courtesy bus pick-up).By air: From Misawa Airport about 20 minutes by car (courtesy bus pick-up by advance reser-vation); from Aomori Airport about 2 hours by car.

Access & Data 17

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Stove Wagon

Stove Train TourThe Tsugaru Railway has been the northernmost private train company in Japan since its opening in1930. Trains traveling through this region of heavy snows and bitter cold are routinely equipped with potbellied stoves, their fires kept burning as the train makes its way. This tour packages the warm andlively Aomori spirit with a visit to the Tachineputa Museum in Goshogawara, where the huge neputafloats for a local summer festival are made and displayed (page 24, map ) and a ride on a vintage train fitted out with an old-fashioned stove from Tsugaru Nakazato Station to Tsugaru Goshogawara Station. The guide-led tour is conducted 3 times a week in the December to March season. Fee (bento lunch included): Adults ¥7,500; children ¥4,500.

Behind the Aomoriya hotel is a vast landscape garden. Visitors can enjoy a leisurely tour around the paths of the garden from within the comfort of a horse-drawn wagon, in winter covered and warmed by a potbellied stove. Rides depart at30-minute intervals from 9 to 11 AM. The wagon is drawn by one of the Aomoriya’s two horses, named Kirara and Ururu. Dried cuttlefish roasted over the well-stoked stove makes for an aromatic snack while enjoying the wintry scenery. Fee: Adults ¥1,200; children ¥1,000 (3 years and under ¥700); 6 person capacity per ride.

i

The making of great tachineputa lantern floats for Aomori festivals died out once in the late 1910s, but the city of Gosho-gawara revived the tradition eighty years later in 1998. Each year one new float as high as 23 meters is newly made and the latest float along with those made for the previous two years are on display in this museum. The workshop is on the top floor of the museum and visitors can observe the process by which the floats are made. The Goshogawara Tachineputa Festival is held August 4 to 8 each year. www.tachineputa.jp

If you purchase a package of cuttlefish sold in the train, a train crew member will roast it over the stove. Cheerful local matrons sell local products at Tsugaru Nakazato Station. You can also sample miso soup made with fresh-water shijimi clams, a local specialty. i

Note: The tours described on pages 18 to 20 are exclusively for Aomoriya guests. Reservations required 3 days in advance. Please also note that the information provided here is for winter 2016.

(Page 24, map )

(Page 24, map )

Note: In Goshogawara, nebuta is pronounced neputa, following the pronunciation in the local dialect.

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This tour featuring enjoyment of sake, local snacks and the scenery along the route charters a two-car Aoimori Railway train running between five stops on the line between Misawa and Aomori stations. Three Aomori brands of sake are offered, accompanied by one or two local specialty snacks (ade, pronounced “ah-day” in the Aomori dialect) served at each station for a total of nine snacks. Live festival flute and drum music played in the cars adds to the merriment of the party. The sight of the wintry scene of Mutsu Bay coming into view adds yet another treat to the tasty snacks along the way. Held once a week in January and February. Fee: Adults ¥8,640; children ¥4,320; children under 3 years free of charge(Page 24, map ).

Left: Small bottles of three types of sake are served: “Mutsu Otokoyama Classic” (made by Hachinohe Shuzo), “Sekinoi Josen” (by Sekinoi), and “Honjozo Joppari” (by Rokka Shuzo). Enjoy sipping these special brews along with the snacks. There is no need to drink it all, as you can save the rest for home. Middle: Lively festival music, featuring a flute, drums, and a pair of hand cymbals is performed live on the train.Right: At each station one or two snacks are added to a box divided into nine parts.

Winter Exclusive: “Sake no Ade” (Sake and Snacks) Snowscape Train Tour

Misawa Station

Ottomo Station

Noheji Station

Kominato Station

Asamushi Onsen Station

Hokki surf clam sashimi

Oden stew with ginger and miso

Soy sauce simmered (tsukudani) wakasagi pond smelt

Scallops in wasabi and kombu sauce

Roasted dried squid

Kujiramochi sweet

Soft-simmered octopus

Soy sauce simmered (tsukudani) shrimp

Namako (sea cucumber) in ponzu and grated daikon sauce

Note: The tours described on pages 18 to 20 are exclusively for Aomoriya guests. Reservations required 3 days in advance. Please also note that the information provided here is for winter 2016.

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Aomori Trademark TastesEach area of Aomori is known for specialty products, some grown on the land, others the harvest of seas and lakes. Here is a sampler of items perfect for gifts and souvenirs, as we find them at Aomori Prefecture Tourist Center—known as “Aspam”—on the bayside in the city of Aomori.

Sweets Factory Pampam features original apple pies made

with Aomori apples. This seasonal special is made with baked

Kogyoku (Jonathan) apples and sweet-potato paste for a

subtle additional flavor. “Pampam Apple,” ¥310 (Sweets

Factory Pampam).

This local-style treat features the

wheat-flour cracker snack called

Nanbu senbei flavored with

cuttlefish and mayonnaise.

“Aomori Ika Mayo,” ¥380

(Aomori Gyoren).

The prefecture is the top producer of apples in Japan. Among

the numerous varieties, the Sun Fuji, a red apple known for

its fine balance of sweetness and tartness, is most widely

grown. The greenish-yellow Orin variety has very sweet

flavor and pleasant aroma. Two-variety box of 18 apples

containing these two varieties is ¥3,800 (JA Zen-Noh Aomori).

Juicing in an oxygen-free environment makes it

possible to bottle flavor without using antioxi-

dants. The “Kibo no Shizuku” (Nectar of Hope)

juice is made with Fuji apples blended with other

best-of-season apples, and the “Kiiroi Ringo”

(Yellow Apple) juice is made with yellow apples

only. Both 280 ml, ¥150 each (JA Zen-Noh Aomori).

One hundred percent apple juice, delicious

either hot or cold. Nominated by the Japan

Tourism Agency as “the ultimate gift welcomed

anywhere in the world,” this juice is a top-quality

product. “Namioka Apple Cider, Grand Premium”

brand, 720 ml, ¥1,674 (Aomori-ken Jiba Select).

Soft-serve apple ice cream made by the Milk Shop

Bon Serve in the Shimokita peninsula area is a big

hit with visitors to Aspam. A sauce of cubed apples

adds a refreshing tang to this rich and refreshing

treat. ¥300 yen (Aomori Hokusaikan). Scallops from Mutsu Bay are bursting

with sweetness and umami flavor.

Retort-packaged foods make good

gifts as well. Left, “Scallop Curry”

(medium spicy and hot spicy), ¥480;

right, rich and creamy “Scallop Stew,”

¥530 (Aomori Gyoren).

The cuttlefish-shaped package of this famous Aomori

product, senbei crackers made with plenty of

Aomori-caught cuttlefish, is eye-catchingly realistic

and makes a good conversation-topic gift. “Iki-iki

Ika Senbei,” ¥400 (Aomori Gyoren [Aomori

Prefecture Federation of Fisheries Coopera-

tives]).

Most brews of sake made in Aomori are dry. These

three brands are recommended as well-matched for

drinking with snacks or hot-pot meals. From right:

Hirosaki sake, “Joppari Ginjo” (by Rokka Shuzo),

¥1,512; Towada sake, “Hakkoda Junmai Daiginjo” (by

Hato Masamune), ¥2,430; and Kamikita sake “Nebuta

Tanrei Junmai” (by Momokawa), ¥1,102. All 720 ml

(Aspam Bussan).

Access & Data

Aomori Prefecture Tourist Center (Aspam) (Page 24, map )1-1-40 Yasukata, Aomori; tel. 017-735-5311 (Japanese only); www.aomori-kanko.or.jpLocated a 10-minute walk from Aomori Station. Hours

uilding, vary for the different shops and facilities in the buildingso be sure to check the website for details. Closed so be sure to check the website for details. ClDecember 31 and Monday through Wednesday during the fourth week of January.

The shops introduced here are on the first floor; the Nishimura restaurant is on the 10th floor. The observatoryon the 13th floor offers fine vistas of Mutsu Bay, the Aomori Bay Bridge, and the Hakkoda Mountains on the inland side (entrance fees: Adults ¥400; junior and senior high school students ¥300; elementary school students ¥200).

This top-quality Aomori rice, rated “special A” class, is the

product of prefecture-wide efforts in all aspects of rice

growing from soil-improvement to selective cultivation. With

its sticky yet light texture and refined sweetness, this rice

goes well with any cuisine and is a much-talked-about brand

these days. “Seiten no Hekireki” (“Bolt from the Blue”) brand

rice, 2 kg, ¥1,100; 5 kg, ¥2,600 (JA Zen-Noh Aomori).

At the Nishimura restaurant on the 10th floor of the Aspam

building, with its fine location overlooking Mutsu Bay, you can

sample diverse dishes of the local cuisine made with seasonal

ingredients. Set lunches make it easy to order a quick meal

while taking a break from sightseeing. Right: “Three-color” rice

bowl topped with generous helpings of sea urchin, salmon roe,

and scallops (with small dish, pickles, and miso soup), ¥2,880.

Left: Jappa-jiru (simmered stew of cod and daikon flavored with

miso), ¥700. Michinoku Ryori (Local Cuisine) Nishimura open 11

AM to 8 PM; last order 7:30 PM. (Page 24, map ) )23 22

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Winter Festivals 　and AttractionsAomori’s winter attractions embrace nature’s cold while overflowing with human warmth. The festivals are held in venues featuring snow and ice, with stalls set up inside them serving piping hot sake and food. At night, the snowy surroundings are lit up with beautiful illuminations and dramatic displays of fireworks. In solemn rituals rooted in Shinto traditions going back to ancient times, the magical candlelight and dynamic movements of dancers transmit the vigor and devotion of people who live amid the rigors of winter.

World famous English snow artist Simon Beck comes to Aomori to produce works created on the canvas of harvested rice fields (tambo) blanketed with snow, locally called “Tambo Art.” Snowshoe-ing briskly over an expanse 1.5 times the size of a soccer field (70 x 160 meters), he traces lovely geometrical patterns in the snow, walking as many as 40 kilometers a day to complete a work. The patterns created on the snow are etched by contrasts of the light in good weather, and present a beautiful, fantasy-like scene at night under floodlights. Visitors can view the entire work from an observatory located at the Michi-no-Eki shopping center at Inakadate. The snow art works are scheduled to appear in early February. Admission: ¥300. Information: Inakadatemura Tourism Planning Office, [email protected]; www.vill.inakadate.lg.jp

This festival has been celebrated for some 450 years in a small community of about ten households in the Sawada district in the foothills of the Shirakami Mountains in the western part of Aomori. At the Shinmeigu Shrine in the village, candles are lit around the entrance to a cave in the rocks, and the next day the luck of the harvest is divined from the way the wax has run down from the candles. The ethereal light of several hundred candles gives a sense of being transported back to times long ago. Candles can be purchased on site, so anyone can place one as an offering. Held annually from 6 to 9 PM on a date in early February. Admission free of charge. Information: Hirosaki Tourist Information Center, tel. 0172-37-5501

The “Winter’s Tale” festival takes place over a period of about three weeks in a specially built venue on the shore of Lake Towada. Attractions abound. A series of shows are presented on a stage built of snow, hot foods are served in a snow-lit alleyway within the venue and all sorts of cocktails may be enjoyed in a bar built inside a massive snow hut (kamakura). Both children and adults can experience snow-country pleasures, like the snow slide and horseback trekking around the venue. At night, the Statue of Maidens introduced on page 6 is lit up, making a beautiful scene against the backdrop of the lake. The highlight of each day of the festival is the finale, capped by a display of fireworks (8 to 8:10 PM), their colors brilliant against the clear night sky. Admission free of charge. Information: Lake Towada Winter’s Tale Executive Committee, tel. 0176-75-2425 (Japa-nese only); www.towadako.or.jp

Lake Towada Winter’s Tale

Art in the Rice Fields: Simon Beck’s Snow Art

Sawada Candle Festival

Access & Data(Page 24, map )By Tohoku Shinkansen: From Shin-Aomori Station about 30 minutes by Ou Line to Hirosaki Station and about 20 minutes by Konan Railway to Tambo Art Station.By air: From Aomori Airport about 1 hour by Konan Bus to Hirosaki Station and about 20 minutes by Konan Railway to Tambo Art Station.

Access & Data(Page 24, map )By Tohoku Shinkansen: From Shichinohe Towada Station about 1 hour 30 minutes by car*By air: From Aomori Airport about 2 hours 30 minutes by car;from Misawa Airport about 2 hours by car. By Aoimori Railway: From Aomori Station about 1 hour by car to Misawa Station and from Misawa Station about 1 hour 30 minutes by car. *Buses do not run in the wintertime; please use a taxi.

Access & Data(Page 24, map )By Tohoku Shinkansen: From Shin-Aomori Station about 30 minutes by Ou Line to Hirosaki Station and from Hirosaki Station about 45 minutes by car. By air: From Aomori Airport about 1 hour by Konan Bus to Hirosaki Station and from Hirosaki Station about 1 hour by car.

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This festival is held annually in late January in the plaza on the west side of the Nebuta House Wa Rasse, the building at the bayside near Aomori Station that exhibits the history and attractions of the Nebuta Festival. The warm, flickering light of some-3,000 snow lanterns made by hand by Aomori citizens creates a magical scene that delights visitors and locals alike. Information: Aomori City Tour-ist Information Center, tel. 017-723-4670; www.atca.info

(Page 24, map )By Tohoku Shinkansen: From Shin-Aomori Station about 30 minutes by Ou Line to Hirosaki Station.By air: From Aomori Airport about 55 minutes by bus to Hirosaki Station. From Hirosaki Station about 10 minutes by car or take Hirosaki City Belt-line bus (15 minutes; get off at the Shiyakusho-mae (City Hall) stop, walk about 4 minutes to the castle).

Access & Data

The donjon of Hirosaki Castle, which weighs some 400 tons, has been moved slightly away from its original location in order to perform repairs on the stone ramparts, a project to take about 10 years. The beauty of the donjon is unmarred, allowing us to enjoy this impressive sight. The vast Hirosaki Park, where the castle was once the bustling center of the city, is a designated National Historical Site. The winter festival held in the park features some 200 snow lanterns decorated with pictures of medieval-era samurai in warrior dress lit up from within by candles, and some 300 miniature snow huts, also lit from inside, making a splendid scene at night. With plenty of other attractions for both adults and children, including large snow figures made in the shape of historical buildings, a corridor lined with Tsugaru-style color pictures, projection mapping spectacles, and fireworks, everyone soon forgets the cold. The festival is held during 4 days in early February. Admission free of charge. 9 AM to 9 PM. Information: Hirosaki Tourist Information Center, tel. 0172-37-5501;www.hirosaki-kanko.or.jp

Hirosaki Castle Snow Lantern Festival

One of Aomori’s three major winter festivals designated by the national government as Important Intangible Folk Cultural Properties, Hachinohe Enburi consists of traditional dances performed annually between February 17 and 20 in various venues such as the plaza in front of the main building of the Aomori Prefectural Government Hachinohe Office, in the Civic Square of the city of Hachinohe, and in the garden of the Kojokaku, a heritage house built by a wealthy businessman. The costumed dancers, wearing gaily decorated headgear evoking a horse’s head, perform a dance reenacting the movements of rice cultivation from planting of seeds to gathering the harvest as a form of prayer for an abundant harvest. Between their dances are charming “happiness dances” performed by children of the community. Almost all the performances are free of charge, except for the “Oniwa Enburi” presented in the above-mentioned Kojokaku house garden, tickets for which must be obtained in advance. Advance tickets: ¥2,100 (includes a bowl of Hachinohe senbei soup and a serving of sweet amazake sake). Three performances are presented daily February 17-20 at 4 PM, 6 PM, and 8 PM. Information: Hachi-nohe General Tour Information Plaza, tel. 0178-27-4243; www.hachinohe-cb.jp

Hachinohe Enburi

Aomori Snow Light Festival

Access & DataBy train: Within walking distance of Aomori Station. (Page 24, map )

Access & Data(Page 24, map )By Tohoku Shinkansen: From Hachinohe Station about 30 minutes by bus to the Hachinohe Center City Terminal.By air: From Misawa Airport about 50 minutes by bus to the Hachinohe Center City Terminal.

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Hoshino Resorts Aomoriya

Stove Wagon

Stove Train Tour

Goshogawara Tachineputa Museum

“Sake no Ade” Snowscape Train Tour

Aomori Prefecture Tourist Center(Aspam)

Michinoku Ryori Nishimura

Lake Towada Winter’s Tale

Sawada Candle Festival

Art in the Rice Fields

Aomori Snow Light Festival

Hachinohe Enburi

Hirosaki Castle Snow Lantern Festival

Photography: Yuji Ono

Illustrated maps and drawings: Sara Tsutsui

Maps pages 2 and 24: Takashi Kamiizumi

Translation: Lynne E. Riggs

Editorial Supervision: Kateigaho International editorial department, Sekai Bunka Publishing Inc.

Publisher: Aomori Prefectural Government Tourism and International Affairs Strategy

Bureau; Tourism Promotion and International Exchange Division

www.aptinet.jp

www.aptinet.jp/sp (smartphone)

Tel. 0570-025-121 (English)Tel. 03-5460-0522 (International call)www.jal.co.jp

aomoriken-taxi.chu.jp (Japanese only)

(English, Simplified Chinese / Traditional Chinese, Korean)

www.jreast.co.jp (English, Simplified Chinese / Traditional Chinese, Korean)

www.konantetsudo.jp(Japanese only)

www.tsutetsu.com www.aoimorirailway.com(partially in English, Simplified Chinese / Traditional Chinese, Korean)

Tel. 0570-55-0489 (Japanese only)Tel. 054-903-3110 (International call) www.fujidream.co.jp

Tel. 0570-029-709 (English)Tel. 03-6741-8800 (International call) www.ana.co.jp

Note: Flights may be changed or cancelled on short notice. Be sure to check flight information at each airline website.

www.koreanair.com

www.okayair.net

ANA domestic flight reservations / information

Korean Air international flight reservations / information

Okay Air international flight reservations / information

FDA call center

JAL domestic flight reservations / information

Aomori Prefecture Taxi Association

JR Konan Railway

Tsugaru Railway Aoimori Railway

Tokyo

Tokyo

Tokyo (Haneda)

Tokyo (Haneda)

Seoul (Incheon)

Sapporo

Osaka (Itami)

Osaka (Itami)

Tianjin (Binhai)

Osaka (Itami)

Shin-0saka

Nagoya (Komaki)

Sapporo (Okadama)

Shin-Aomori

Aomori

Misawa

Aomori

Shin-Aomori

Shin-Aomori

about 3 hours

about 1 hour 15 minutes




about 2 hours 35 minutes

about 45 minutes




about 1 hour

Tohoku Shinkansen “Hayabusa”

Hokkaido Shinkansen “Hayabusa”

Tohoku Shinkansen “Hayabusa”


about 6 hours

(flights on Wednesdays and Sundays)

(flights on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays)

Shin-Hakodate Hokuto

By Train By Train

By TaxiBy Air (as of May 2017)

Aomori Tourist Information

Access to Aomori Access within Aomori

Limited Express Super Hokuto

Tokaido Shinkansen “Nozomi”

Sapporo (Shin-Chitose)

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AOMORI · The lofty Ou mountain range, with its famously rugged Hakkoda peaks, divides the...

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Transcript of AOMORI · The lofty Ou mountain range, with its famously rugged Hakkoda peaks, divides the...