Antiaging skin care formulation with antiglycation technology and stabilized retinol reduces fine...

1
P6659 Antiaging skin care formulation with antiglycation technology and stabi- lized retinol reduces fine lines and deep wrinkles in a human clinical study Hanh Pham, MS, Mary Kay, Inc, Addison, TX, United States; David Gan, MS, Mary Kay, Inc, Dallas, TX, United States; Krupali Patel, MS, Mary Kay, Inc, Dallas, TX, United States; Michelle Hines, PhD, Mary Kay, Inc, Dallas, TX, United States; Tiffany Florence, PhD, Mary Kay, Inc, Dallas, TX, United States; Wanli Zhao, Mary Kay, Inc, Dallas, TX, United States High glucose diets and the accumulation of nonenzymatic glycation products have been implicated as contributing factors in skin aging, especially in patients suffering from diabetes. Glycated proteins, such as collagen, have been shown to accumulate in skin, leading to impaired function and accelerated signs of skin aging. Retinol is recommended by dermatologists to reduce fine lines and wrinkles and is widely used in many antiaging cosmetic products. Although retinol is highly effective in topical application, it can lead to skin dryness and skin irritation. In addition, retinol is known to be chemically reactive and potentially unstable in cosmetic formulations. With these factors in mind, we developed an antiaging skin care treatment containing antiglycation technology and stabilized retinol. This topical treatment inhibited formation of advanced glycated end (AGE) product, carboxymethyllysine (CML), in ex vivo human skin biopsies. Contrary to drying retinol formulations, this nonirritating formulation was determined to increase skin moisturization 12 hours after topical application. In a human clinical study, this antiaging skin formulation significantly reduced fine lines and deep wrinkles as determined by an expert grader and measured by full face image analyzer, while increasing skin firmness and elasticity. Supported by Mary Kay, Inc. P7051 Appearance of uneven facial texture is improved by a facial moisturizer containing cosmetic ingredients that boost cellular energy Rosemarie Osborne, PhD, The Procter and Gamble Company, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Debbie Reichart, MS, The Procter and Gamble Company, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Jim Li, MS, The Procter and Gamble Company, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Joseph Kaczvinsky, PhD, The Procter and Gamble Company, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Ziyi Wang, MS, The Procter and Gamble Company, Beijing, China Background: A complex of cosmetic ingredients (niacinamide, Pal-KTTKS, and an olive oil derivative) has been shown to increase cellular energy factors ATP and NAD + /NADH as well as cellular metabolism in aging skin cells. In parallel, the ingredients also affected biomarkers of skin structure and protection from oxidative damage. In vitro responses to the complex were increased by addition of dill seed extract. In the current work, we evaluated a daily-use facial moisturizer formulation containing the complex, without and with dill seed extract, for effects on the appearance of aging facial skin. Methods: A 12-week, randomized, double-blind study was completed with 35-65 year old women exhibiting moderate to moderately severe cheek skin texture, defined as fine lines, wrinkles, pores, and bumpiness. Moisturizer formulations were applied twice daily. The test formulation containing a complex of niacinamide, Pal- KTTKS peptide, and an olive derivative (olive oil-derived fatty acids modified with PEG-7) was compared to a formulation with complex plus added dill seed extract, and a negative control formulation. Changes in facial texture were assessed by both expert grading and computerized analysis of digital images. Skin elasticity was measured by Cutometer. Results: Daily use of the test formulation provided significant improvement in the appearance of uneven skin texture within 4 weeks as compared to the control formulation, by both expert grading and digital image analysis. The improvement increased in magnitude for the duration of product use (12 weeks). The improved skin appearance was accompanied by an increase in skin elasticity. Addition of dill seed extract to the complex improved skin elasticity further than complex alone. Conclusion: Daily use of a cosmetic moisturizer containing niacinamide, Pal-KTTKS, and an olive derivative improved the appearance of uneven facial skin texture. Addition of dill seed extract to the complex boosted skin elasticity and firmness. These results suggest that daily use of moisturizer formulations containing ingredi- ents related to skin energy can aid improved appearance of aging skin. 100% is sponsored by P&G Beauty. P7078 Assessment of niacinamide in vivo skin penetration from a cosmetic moisturizer formula Chu Zhu, PhD, Procter and Gamble Co, Cincinnati, OH, United States; David Oertel, PhD, Procter and Gamble Co, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Mary Werner, Procter and Gamble Co, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Russell Spruell, PhD, Procter and Gamble Co, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Tammy Wagner, Procter and Gamble Co, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Tom Cambron, PhD, Procter and Gamble Co, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Yiping Sun, PhD, Procter Gamble Co, Cincinnati, OH, United States A human in vivo study was conducted to compare niacinamide penetration from a new cosmetic moisturizer formula versus the current formula. Niacinamide skin penetration was significantly increased from the new formula. The assessment of niacinamide skin penetration was accomplished via tape stripping followed by HPLC analysis. The results showed that the new formula can deliver significantly more antiaging actives at a faster rate. The increase of niacinamide resulted from the change of product chassis and an increase of the niacinamide level in the new formula. In addition, in a pilot study, confocal Raman spectrometry was used to study in vivo niacinamide skin penetration and showed the same trend as tape stripping study. Furthermore, the niacinamide penetration can be visualized via tape stripping followed by MALDI-MS imaging. Supported by Procter and Gamble Co. P6807 Clinical assessment of efficacy and safety of a night cream containing vitamin C in facial photoaging Un Sun Park, MD, Theraskin, S~ ao Bernardo do Campo, Brazil; Adilson Costa, PhD, PUCCAMP, S~ ao Paulo, Brazil Background: Ascorbic acid acts as an important antioxidant in the skin, modulating the effects of UV-induced damage.The objective of this study was to assess the efficacy and safety of a night cream containing ascorbic acid for the treatment of facial photoaging. Methods: Thirty-five female volunteers 30 to 65 years of age and facial photodamage (Glogau II and III) participated in this study. During 60 days they applied the cream to the face daily at night. Evaluations were performed at the first day of application of the product (day 0), after 30 days, and after 60 days. At these visits, the volunteers were clinically assessed. Results: Clinical evaluation from dermatologists showed a statistically significant improvement in wrinkles, fine lines, flaccidity, elasticity, smoothness, hydration, uniformity of skin tone, texture, spots, and general appearance of the facial skin. Conclusion: The product improved the general appearance of the skin and showed excellent tolerability. It should be considered as an option when treating aging skin with photodamage. 100% sponsored by Theraskin. AB28 JAM ACAD DERMATOL APRIL 2013

Transcript of Antiaging skin care formulation with antiglycation technology and stabilized retinol reduces fine...

Page 1: Antiaging skin care formulation with antiglycation technology and stabilized retinol reduces fine lines and deep wrinkles in a human clinical study

P6659Antiaging skin care formulation with antiglycation technology and stabi-lized retinol reduces fine lines and deep wrinkles in a human clinicalstudy

Hanh Pham, MS, Mary Kay, Inc, Addison, TX, United States; David Gan, MS, MaryKay, Inc, Dallas, TX, United States; Krupali Patel, MS, Mary Kay, Inc, Dallas, TX,United States; Michelle Hines, PhD, Mary Kay, Inc, Dallas, TX, United States;Tiffany Florence, PhD, Mary Kay, Inc, Dallas, TX, United States; Wanli Zhao, MaryKay, Inc, Dallas, TX, United States

High glucose diets and the accumulation of nonenzymatic glycation productshave been implicated as contributing factors in skin aging, especially in patientssuffering from diabetes. Glycated proteins, such as collagen, have been shown toaccumulate in skin, leading to impaired function and accelerated signs of skinaging. Retinol is recommended by dermatologists to reduce fine lines andwrinkles and is widely used in many antiaging cosmetic products. Althoughretinol is highly effective in topical application, it can lead to skin dryness andskin irritation. In addition, retinol is known to be chemically reactive andpotentially unstable in cosmetic formulations. With these factors in mind, wedeveloped an antiaging skin care treatment containing antiglycation technologyand stabilized retinol. This topical treatment inhibited formation of advancedglycated end (AGE) product, carboxymethyllysine (CML), in ex vivo human skinbiopsies. Contrary to drying retinol formulations, this nonirritating formulationwas determined to increase skin moisturization 12 hours after topical application.In a human clinical study, this antiaging skin formulation significantly reducedfine lines and deep wrinkles as determined by an expert grader and measured byfull face image analyzer, while increasing skin firmness and elasticity.

AB28

d by Mary Kay, Inc.

Supporte

P7051Appearance of uneven facial texture is improved by a facial moisturizercontaining cosmetic ingredients that boost cellular energy

Rosemarie Osborne, PhD, The Procter and Gamble Company, Cincinnati, OH,United States; Debbie Reichart, MS, The Procter and Gamble Company,Cincinnati, OH, United States; Jim Li, MS, The Procter and Gamble Company,Cincinnati, OH, United States; Joseph Kaczvinsky, PhD, The Procter and GambleCompany, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Ziyi Wang, MS, The Procter and GambleCompany, Beijing, China

Background: A complex of cosmetic ingredients (niacinamide, Pal-KTTKS, and anolive oil derivative) has been shown to increase cellular energy factors ATP andNAD+/NADH as well as cellular metabolism in aging skin cells. In parallel, theingredients also affected biomarkers of skin structure and protection from oxidativedamage. In vitro responses to the complex were increased by addition of dill seedextract. In the current work, we evaluated a daily-use facial moisturizer formulationcontaining the complex, without and with dill seed extract, for effects on theappearance of aging facial skin.

Methods: A 12-week, randomized, double-blind study was completed with 35-65year old women exhibiting moderate to moderately severe cheek skin texture,defined as fine lines, wrinkles, pores, and bumpiness. Moisturizer formulations wereapplied twice daily. The test formulation containing a complex of niacinamide, Pal-KTTKS peptide, and an olive derivative (olive oil-derived fatty acids modified withPEG-7) was compared to a formulation with complex plus added dill seed extract,and a negative control formulation. Changes in facial texture were assessed by bothexpert grading and computerized analysis of digital images. Skin elasticity wasmeasured by Cutometer.

Results: Daily use of the test formulation provided significant improvement in theappearance of uneven skin texture within 4 weeks as compared to the controlformulation, by both expert grading and digital image analysis. The improvementincreased in magnitude for the duration of product use (12 weeks). The improvedskin appearance was accompanied by an increase in skin elasticity. Addition of dillseed extract to the complex improved skin elasticity further than complex alone.

Conclusion: Daily use of a cosmetic moisturizer containing niacinamide, Pal-KTTKS,and an olive derivative improved the appearance of uneven facial skin texture.Addition of dill seed extract to the complex boosted skin elasticity and firmness.These results suggest that daily use of moisturizer formulations containing ingredi-ents related to skin energy can aid improved appearance of aging skin.

ponsored by P&G Beauty.

100% is s

J AM ACAD DERMATOL

P7078Assessment of niacinamide in vivo skin penetration from a cosmeticmoisturizer formula

Chu Zhu, PhD, Procter and Gamble Co, Cincinnati, OH, United States; DavidOertel, PhD, Procter and Gamble Co, Cincinnati, OH, United States; MaryWerner, Procter and Gamble Co, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Russell Spruell,PhD, Procter and Gamble Co, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Tammy Wagner,Procter and Gamble Co, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Tom Cambron, PhD,Procter and Gamble Co, Cincinnati, OH, United States; Yiping Sun, PhD, ProcterGamble Co, Cincinnati, OH, United States

A human in vivo study was conducted to compare niacinamide penetration froma new cosmetic moisturizer formula versus the current formula. Niacinamide skinpenetration was significantly increased from the new formula. The assessment ofniacinamide skin penetration was accomplished via tape stripping followed byHPLC analysis. The results showed that the new formula can deliver significantlymore antiaging actives at a faster rate. The increase of niacinamide resulted fromthe change of product chassis and an increase of the niacinamide level in the newformula. In addition, in a pilot study, confocal Raman spectrometry was used tostudy in vivo niacinamide skin penetration and showed the same trend as tapestripping study. Furthermore, the niacinamide penetration can be visualized viatape stripping followed by MALDI-MS imaging.

d by Procter and Gamble Co.

Supporte

P6807Clinical assessment of efficacy and safety of a night cream containingvitamin C in facial photoaging

Un Sun Park, MD, Theraskin, S~ao Bernardo do Campo, Brazil; Adilson Costa, PhD,PUCCAMP, S~ao Paulo, Brazil

Background: Ascorbic acid acts as an important antioxidant in the skin, modulatingthe effects of UV-induced damage.The objective of this study was to assess theefficacy and safety of a night cream containing ascorbic acid for the treatment offacial photoaging.

Methods: Thirty-five female volunteers 30 to 65 years of age and facial photodamage(Glogau II and III) participated in this study. During 60 days they applied the creamto the face daily at night. Evaluations were performed at the first day of application ofthe product (day 0), after 30 days, and after 60 days. At these visits, the volunteerswere clinically assessed.

Results: Clinical evaluation from dermatologists showed a statistically significantimprovement in wrinkles, fine lines, flaccidity, elasticity, smoothness, hydration,uniformity of skin tone, texture, spots, and general appearance of the facial skin.

Conclusion: The product improved the general appearance of the skin and showedexcellent tolerability. It should be considered as an option when treating aging skinwith photodamage.

nsored by Theraskin.

100% spo

APRIL 2013