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Transcript of Anti-Ageing Trends - The · PDF fileAnti-Ageing Trends Markets, Targets, Ingredients . 2...
1
Stefan Bänziger, PhD
Anti-Ageing Trends Markets, Targets, Ingredients
2
Anti-Ageing Trends Contents
RAHN
Market Data (Facial Care)
Trends
Conclusion
3 3
About RAHN
4 4
Business Areas
EnergyCuring
Globally active in
development and sales of
high-perfomance raw
materials for radiation curing.
Cosmetics
Global sales of high-quality
raw materials and active
ingredients for innovative
cosmetics applications.
Scent & Taste
Innovative fragrance and
aroma compositions and
selected raw materials for the
food industry.
5 5
Products and Services
We offer our customers solutions with real added value thanks to many years of experience
in cosmetics development and extensive expertise in sales and consulting.
Products
RAHN-Cosmetic Actives / Active ingredients
Antioxidants Emulsifiers Peeling agents
Plant extracts Gelling
agents/hydrocolloids Eye catcher beads
Emollients Surfactants
Laboratory activities and product development
Supervision and support of customer projects
Product and laboratory training for customers and suppliers
Creation of cutting-edge formulations
Integration of our raw material suppliers’ product ranges
Development of further applications
Development of additional active ingredient concepts
Services
Professional consulting
Efficient customer service
Quick and easy raw material
sampling
Customised solutions
Trainings for customers and sales
Strong international sales and
distribution network
Implementation of latest
regulations, safety aspects
Up-to-date, comprehensive product
documentation
6 6
Market Data
7 7
Global Market Facial Care
/ Mintel
8 8
European Market Facial Care
/ Mintel
9 9
Global Market Facial Care: Top 10 Claims by Region
Global Asia Pacific Europe Latin America North America
Botanical/Herbal Botanical/Herbal Botanical/Herbal Botanical/Herbal Botanical/Herbal
Moisturising / Hydrating Moisturising / Hydrating Moisturising / Hydrating Moisturising / Hydrating Moisturising / Hydrating
Vitamin/Mineral Fortified Vitamin/Mineral Fortified Dermatologically Tested Dermatologically Tested Ethical - Animal
Dermatologically Tested Long-Lasting Long-Lasting Vitamin/Mineral Fortified Vitamin/Mineral Fortified
Long-Lasting Brightening / Illuminating Vitamin/Mineral Fortified Long-Lasting Long-Lasting
Ethical - Animal Time/Speed Brightening / Illuminating Time/Speed Brightening /
Illuminating*
Brightening / Illuminating Whitening Ethical - Animal Male Seasonal
Time/Speed Ethical - Animal Time/Speed Brightening / Illuminating Paraben Free
Male UV Protection No Additives/
Preservatives Damaged Hair Time/Speed
No Additives/
Preservatives Dermatologically Tested Organic Female Dermatologically Tested
/ Mintel
10 10
Global Market Facial Care: Top 5 Claims by Sub-Category
81%
11%
8%
1%
/ Mintel
11
Trends
12
Executive Summary
1) Consumers are more wary of what they buy and
therefore are demanding more information about a
product’s ingredients, provenance, manufacturing
process and safety testing.
• Natural / Sourcing can be an important issue
• Free-from marketing is on the rise
• Sun care and sensitive skin are gaining
importance
2) The market becomes more segmented and expands
to new categories and claims
• Tapping into niches
13
PIF
Safety Assessment
Exposure
NOAEL
MoS
Trend 1: Awareness More and more Date are Required
• Nanomaterials (Art 16/19)
• Declaration of subsidiary technical
material (Art 19)
• Animal Experiments (Art 11)
• Safety Assement (Annex 1)
• Impurities (Annex 1)
• Claim Substantiation (Art 20)
14
Trend 1: Awareness
• Natural products are preferred
Botanicals are extensively used for
natural touch
exotic touch
anti-ageing properties
product seems safer
Consumer Driven
15 15
Trend 1: Awareness Sustained Management of Natural Resources
/ Mintel
16
CELLIGENT®
Ethyl Ferulate + Carnosolic Acid + UMP
Uridine Monophosphate (UMP) is
isolated from sugar molasses obtained
during sugar manufacturing.
Trend 1: Awareness Sustained Sourcing / Provenance
SLIMEXIR®
X-Melt® + Artichoke extract + Levan
The Artichoke extract is obtained
from the stock of artichokes which
are used in the food industry.
17
• „Natural“ products are preferred
• Animal experiments are cruel
Trend 1: Awareness Consumer Driven
18
• „Natural“ products are preferred
• Animal experiments are cruel
• Preservatives are dangerous
• Nanomaterials are harmful
• Sun exposure threatens the skin
• Sensitive Skin
Trend 1: Awareness Consumer Driven
/ New England Journal of Medicine; April 2012
Free from
19
Basic formulations when applied to skin and exposed to UV-light, often induce harmful ROS
• The application of cosmetic
products leads to increased
photosensitivity of the skin
/ Jung K. et Bänziger S., HPC Today, Vol. 8(2) March/April 2013
20 20
CELLIGENT®
Intelligent Skin Protection
Efficacy data
• Effective cell and DNA protection
during solar irradiation (in-vitro study)
• Stem Cell protection (in-vitro study)
• Rapid regeneration of UV-related cell
and DNA damage (in-vivo erythema study)
• „After Sun Rescue Treatment” (user test)
• Protects skin and cosmetic products against
formulation-induced ROS formation (ex-vivo study)
Ethyl Ferulate
Carnosolic acid UMP
21
CELLIGENT® completely reduces the detrimental pro-oxidative effect of basic formulations
• The application of cosmetic
products leads to increased
photosensitivity of the skin
• CELLIGENT® protects the skin
from free radicals and neutralises
undesired side effects provoked
by cosmetic products
• Improved photo-resistance of the
skin
/ Jung K. et Bänziger S., HPC Today, Vol. 8(2) March/April 2013
22 22
Trend 1: Awareness – Sensitive Skin DEFENSIL-PLUS® - natural skin care for conscious consumers
Sensitive skin: hyper-reactive, easily-irritable
Occurence : 60% of women / 40% of men
35% of UK women are looking for products , designed f
or sensitive skin, but only 14% of EU-launches are so
→ potential for growth and NPD
DEFENSIL-PLUS® :
Eases symptomes AND improves quality of life
Free from preservatives, perfumes, colorants, PEG’s,,…
Pure Natural Power!
23 23
Trend 2: Segmentation
Exploring New Consumer Groups
MILLENNIALS
17-34 years old
GENERATION X 35-46 years old
GENERATION NEXT <16
BABY BOOMERS 47-65 years old
SENIORS 65+
24 24 / Minte Oxygen, Food and Drink Packaging Trends – UK January 2012
Packaging factors influencing choice
of food and drink
“Attractive”
Trend 2: Segmentation - Millenials Design aware / Digital natives
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
All 16-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55+
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
All 16-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55+
Agreement with statements on alcoholic
drink packaging
“Eye catching”
25 25 / Mintel Oxygen, Marketing to Millennials – US – August 2012
Opinions about saving and spending money
“I will sometimes buy luxury items that I cannot afford to keep up to date.”
Seeking Luxury
0%
5%
10%
15%
20%
25%
30%
All Millennials Gen X Baby Boomers Seniors
Trend 2: Segmentation - Millenials
26 26 / Mintel Oxygen, Attitudes Towards Corporate Social Responsibility – US – September 2012
In the past six months, have you chosen to purchase a particular product
(instead of a similar product) based on any of the following?
Trend 2: Segmentation - Millenials Socially Responsible
0% 10% 20% 30% 40%
Made by employees who are compensated fairly
Fair trade
Improves the lives of others
Not tested on animals
Donates a portion of its profits to a charity
Produced locally
Environmentally friendly
Energy efficient
Millennials All
27 27
Delayed adolescence
Protection / Early prevention line
Socially responsible
Organic ingredients
Design aware / Luxury seeking
Appropriate packaging
Digital natives
”Prep-App”
Skin Care for Millennials
Join
us!
CELLACTIVE®-HYDRO and you can dance all night long!
28 28
Trend 2: Segmentation - Men Still the customers of tomorrow?
/ Mintel Facial Skincare – US – May 2012
• 17% of men use facial cleansers or
medicated products (vs 57% of
women
• Compared to 40% of male
teenagers → once men have dealt
with teenage acne, companies
struggle to retain these consumers
• Information to choose products
comes from friend/family (30%), TV
(20%), and None of the above
(50%) → low level of interaction
with facial care products that
needs to be boosted
Multifunctional – Cleansing
Moisturising
29 29
Skinkeeper – Targeting Golfers RADICARE® - the hole-in-one for your Skin
NE
W!
Overall ROS-Protection!
30
Conclusions
• Hydrating formulations and plant-based
ingredients are an integral part of facial care,
present in 6/10 new launches in 2012
• Botanicals are selected for their anti-ageing
properties or to add a natural or exotic touch or
to make the products feel safer.
Provenance might become more important
• Consumers are more wary of what they buy and
the European market for facial care is very much
about safety
• Free-from marketing is on the rise
• High level of launches for sensitive skin
Moisturising
Botanical / Herbal / Natural
Safety
Free From
Sensitive Skin
UV-Protection
Millenials
Men
31
Conclusions
• Consumers lernt that UV-protection is
important;
However, the industry is not yet fully
aware that basic formulations might
increase photosensitivity
• There is inceased segementation and expansion
into new categories and claims .
E.g. Milenials / Men’s care
Moisturising
Botanical / Herbal
Safety
Free From
Sensitive Skin
UV-Protection
Millenials
Men
32
THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION
33
Presentation Phytoark 10/13
Utilisation of this document or parts thereof as well as product names for commercial or industrial
applications is subject to explicit written approval by RAHN AG. This information is based on our own
experience to date and we believe it to be reliable. It is intended only as a guide to use at your discretion
and risk. We cannot guarantee favourable results and assume no liability in connection with its use, or
the use of the methods or products described. None of this information is to be taken as a license to
operate under, or a recommendation to infringe patents.