ANIM HAIR BIBLE · 2019-03-13 · the hair strands. NATURAL HAIR HOW WE DEFINE IT Making the choice...

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H A I R B IBLE

G U I D E T O C A R I N G F O R

N AT U R A L H A I R

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system, without prior permission from ANIM Naturals

NOT FOR RESALE


We define natural hair as hair which has not undergone

chemical processing treatments such as relaxers and texturisers.

These chemicals contain compounds that break down the

structural bonds that are responsible for producing curls in

the hair strands.

NATURAL HAIRHOW WE DEFINE IT

Making the choice to go natural can often be daunting because there is so much information and it is difficult to know where to start. We’ve created this guide for you to walk with you through some of the basics of natural hair care to

ensure you reach all your hair goals.

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Once you have decided to go natural, you will have to allow your hair to return to

its natural unprocessed state. This can be acheieved through 2 different methods:

THE BIG CHOP

This entails cutting off chemically processed

ends using either hair shears/scissors or a

clipper leaving behind only the unprocessed

natural hair.

PROS

• Low maintenance style

• One texture to deal with

• Water doesnt ruin style

CONS

• Limited style options

RETURNING TO NATURAL


TRANSITIONING

This is the process of allowing your natural

hair or “growth” to grow out gradually,

while trimming off straight relaxed ends

incrementally.

Ultimately when you finally take the leap remember that your choice should be for you,

your lifestyle, and your hair’s health. If you’re confident in your decision, you will feel as

beautiful as ever.

PROS

• Hold on to length

CONS

• Different hair texures

• Difficult to style daily

• Needs lots of attention

Tip: If you’re uncomfortable with this length of

hair, wear wigs or braids while your afro grows

out to your preferred length.


So now that you have a better idea of what natural hair is and exactly how to begin the process of growing it, the next step is to know the structure of your hair in order to understand the kinds of products best suited for your particular hair type.

There are 3 factors to take into account when analyzing your hair to determine your unique hair type: porosity, texture and curl pattern.

Porosity is a measure of the hairs ability to absorb and retain moisture. Knowing your porosity is the best way to identify how to moisturze your hair.

To test your hair porosity : Drop a product free hair strand in

a glass of water for 5 minutes.

POROSITY

HAIR TYPEDIAGNOSE YOUR HAIR

Obs

erve

stra

nd a

fter

5 m

inut

es

LOW POROSITY

NORMAL POROSITY

HIGH POROSITY


LOW POROSIT Y • Cuticles lay tightly flat along the hair strand. This makes it difficult for moisture to enter the hair shaft. Lighter oils such grapessed oil are recommended when sealing this type of hair because such oils are better able to penetrate the hair hair strand. The application of electronic heating cap or or microwavable deep condition cap during the conditioning process will also assist in relaxing the cuticles to allow for better penetration of moisture.

NORMAL POROSIT Y • Cuticles lay flat but have enough room to allow for the penetration of moisture. A lightweight moisturiser such as a good leave-in and oil are sufficient for keeping moisture. Sealing butters used sparingly are also a good option for this hair type.

HIGH POROSIT Y • Cuticules are wide open and moisture enters but cannot be retained in the hair shaft. Requires the application of thicker sealing products such has viscose oils and butters. High porosity is often associated with hair that hasbeen heat damaged or chemically processed.

Note: Maintaining proper moisture is important for all hair types, but coily hair is even more susceptible to damage if it lacks moisture.


TEXTURE

Hair texture refers to the thickness (circumference) of your hair strands. There are three main categories of hair texture each with varying needs: fine, medium or thick.

CURL PATTERN

This refers to the shape of each of your

hair strands which can either be straight

hair (type 1 hair), wavy (type 2 hair),

curly (type 3 hair) or coily (type 4 hair).

There are a few nuances in the tightness

of the curls within each of these

categories. Hair falling in the straight

to wavy side of the spectrum, does not

require heavy moisturisers as these

can weigh the hair down resulting in a

lifeless oily appearance of hair.

Conversely, hair falling along the curly to

coily side of the spectrum benefit from

the use of heavier oils as because these

hair types generally suffer from dryness

and require heavier conditioners and oils

to maintain moisture

NOTE: Remember no curl pattern is

better than another. The only “good hair”

is healthy hair. All curl patterns were

created equal!

FINE TO MEDIUM

Use lightweight moisture sealing options such as a water based leave-in or just pure water and a sealing oil such as grapeseed or argan oil.

MEDIUM TO THICK

Use heavier oils and butters such as olive oil, castor oil, shea, or cocoa butter.


CURL PATTERN

STRAIGHTTYPE 1

TYPE 2

TYPE 3

TYPE 4

CURLY

WAVY

COILY

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CARING FOR YOUR NATURAL HAIR

Growing healthy natural hair requires that you build your own hair care regimen.

It is useful to keep it simple and sustainable to ensure you remain consistent in

your hair maintainance. A simple step by step routine that fits into your lifestyle is

all you need to maintain those luscious locs.

ASSESS YOUR HAIR • Know your

hair type and determine its condition.

This will inform you hair needs.

Depending on the level of damage your

hair has sustained, time spent on the

various steps of your regimen would vary.

NOTE BAD HABITS • Common

practices such as colouring, or excessive

use of heat styling should be limited as

this can cause damage and prevent you

from reaching your hair goals.

LOC & PROTECT • Hair care

occuring daily or a few times in the

week should include your moisturisation

routine (LOC/LCO method) and short

term protective styles.

CREATE A SCHEDULE • Cleansing,

conditioning, treatments and protecting

form the foundations of healthy hair.

These elements and their frquency will

vary to address your unique hair problems.

BUILDING YOUR REGIMEN

Below are some fundamental elements that need to be included in any natural

hair care regime.

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WASH DAY REGIMEN

DETANGLING

Minimizes breakage and makes hair easier to handle

Always begin by finger detangling and following up with combing as this reduces the amount of shedding and/or breakage you may sustain during your grooming session. See page 16 for a guide on detangling

CLARIFYING

Keeping your hair and scalp clean is essential to growing healthy hair.

Ordinary shampoos often contain artificial foaming agents that strip the hair of moisture. Here are some alternative, 100% natural “no-poo” options that you can use to clarify your hair and scalp.

AFRICAN BLACK SOAP • This soap is mild enough to ensure that your hair is cleansed effectively without stripping it of it ’s natural oils. This form of cleansing uses soap composed of the saponified plant matter indigenous to West Africa.

APPLE CIDER VINEGAR RINSE • An ACV solution is a great way to remove build up on the hair and scalp. Mix 3 parts water and 1 part apple cider vinegar together and use this as a rinse during the clarifying step of your regimen. ACV also assists in balancing the pH of the hair and scalp.

CLAY WASHES • Cleanse your hair using either bentonite or rhassoul clay. Create a paste by mixing one part clay with one part ACV solution. Apply mixture to the scalp and strands, leave for 15 minutes, then rinse off.


CONDITIONING

Ensures your hair replenishes the moisture taken out by clarifying

There are two main types of conditioners - rinse out conditioner and deep conditioner. A rinse out conditioner is typically used on hair after every wash, right after you’ve clarified it, and is left in for no longer than 5 minutes and rinsed out thereafter.

A deep conditioner (DC) on the other hand is often formulated with proteins and hydrolized oils which provide and extra moisture boost for the hair. A deep conditioning treatment must be left in for a minimum of 15 minutes to be effective.

See the ANIM DIY Deep conditioning recipe on page 15

PROTEIN TREATMENTS

Hair consists of proteins and requires proteins to remain strong and healthy

The purpose of this type of treatment is to strengthen hair and prevent breakage by fortifying your hair shafts and strengthening the hair strands. You can identify a protein in a formulated product as the ingredient name will contain the word “protein” in it. e.g. hydrolysed keratin protein, wheat protein, soy protein, milk protein or silk protein.

NATURAL PROTEIN TREATMENTS • Whole proteins foundin cold pressed coconut oil, avocado, seed oils like chia or hempfor instance can also be used as a protien treatment.


TOWEL DRYING Removes excess water fromthe hair so that you canstyle the hair as preferred

During this process it is essential to use a towel that will provide maximum absorption with minimal friction. Traditional cotton towels cause snagging which leads to breakage and require more friction in order to absorb all the excess water. Microfibre Towels are a superior option to the traditional towel as they absorb 10 times more water than ordinary cotton towels and cause minimal friction leaving your hair frizz free and your curls bouncy.

SCALP CARE Scalp care is essential for the maintance of natural hair. Apply an antifungal, antibacterial oil to your scalp at least once a week both to moisturise and protect the scalp. Jamaican black castor oil, tea tree and rosemary oil are known to have both anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties.

Regular massages of the scalp will also promote blood circulation around the hair follicles which is essential forstimulating hair growth.

DAILY MAINTENANCE

The LOC/LCO method of retaining moisture is essential to any natural hair regime. We’ve created an easy to use infographic to guide you on how to use LOC/LCO for daily maintenance of your natural hair.


LOC /LCO METHOD

This method is based on the simple logic that in order to impart

moisture to the hair strands one needs to apply a water based product.

In order prevent this moisture from evaporating one needs to apply an oil

based product to seal in the moisture.

See the ANIM Naturals Wash day regimen for a guide on how

to use ANIM products for the perfect LOC/LCO routine.

LEAVE IN/LIQUID

Waterbased product ( first ingredient listed is Aqua)

provides moisture needed by your hair

OIL

Creates a barrier that prevents moisture from evaporating from

the hair strands

CREAM

Often in the form of a butter such as shea butter or cocoa butter.

Provides and extra layer of moisture sealing power.

L

O

C


5 STEPWASH DAY REGIMENWITH ANIM NATURALS

STEP 0

PRE-POO (optional)

Provides an extra moisture boost and contributes to maintaining the gener-

al health and growth of your hair.

YOU WILL NEED:

• ANIM Aloe Vera Gel, • ANIM Jamaican Black Castor Oil• ANIM Bamboo Comb

Pre-poo treatments are particularly recommended for the

dryer winter months. The ANIM Naturals DIY pre poo

is also known to boost hair growth and improve scalp

health so you can’t go wrong with incorporating this into

your natural hair care regime.

HOW TO

• Combine equal parts of the ANIM Aloe Vera Gel

& ANIM Jamaican Black Castor Oiland stir until

the mixture produces a creamy white lotion.

• Section hair into quadrants and lightly mist with-

water.

• Working section by section, apply the mixture from

root to tip.

• First finger detangle each section to loosen any large

knots which may be torn out from just combing.

• Gently detangle each section by working from tips

to roots using the ANiM Curl Care Bamboo Comb.


STEP 1:DETANGLING

YOU WILL NEED:

• - ANIM Curl Care Bamboo Comb

HOW TO:• Part hair into sections and apply either the ANIM

DIY Pre-Poo Treatment or the ANIM Chia Seed Leave- In Conditioner.

• Use your fingers to detangle sections of hair by care-fully separating knots section by section throughout your hair.

• Follow with the ANIM Bamboo comb, working sec-tion by section, combing from root to tip in order to thoroughly detangle hair and distribute product evenly

• Twist each section into two strand twists

STEP 2 CLARIFY

YOU WILL NEED: • ANIM African Black Soap

No-Poo Clarifying Wash• Apple Cider Vinegar

The ANIM African Black Soap No-Poo Clarifying Wash is a gentle moisturising “no-poo” scalp and hair cleanser.

HOW TO USE:• Open nozzle and apply liquid directly to scalp • Massage lather into scalp and work lather into the hair

strands.• Rinse lather thoroughly with warm water • Re-balance hair’s pH level by following with and apple

cider apple cider vinegar rinse. See page 11 for apple cider vinegar rinse mixture ratio

• Rinse out Apple Cider Vinegar


STEP 3CONDITION / DEEP CONDITION

YOU WILL NEED:

• 2 tbs - ANIM Aloe Vera Gel• 1 tbs - ANIM Jamaican

Black Castor Oil• 4 tbs - ANiM Shea

Butter Conditioner

The ANIM Naturals Shea Butter Conditioner can be used as a deep conditioner by combining it with the ANIM Jamaican Black Castor Oil and ANIM Aloe Vera Gel.

HOW TO:• Mix all ingredients in a bowl until all ingredients combine• Apply to damp hair and cover with a plastic cap.• Apply a deep conditioning cap and leave in the treatment for 30

minutes.• Rinse out treatment and squeeze out excess moisture using the

ANIM Microfibre Towel and proceed to the next step of your hair routine.

STEP 4: TOWEL DRY

YOU WILL NEED:

• ANIM Microfibre Towel

Using the ANiM Curl Care Microfiber towel, gently dab the

towel on the hair in sections until all the excess water has

been absorbed into the towel. You can also use the convenient

loop sewn into the towel to wrap your head with the towel in

order to further absorb excess water into the towel.

STEP 5: LOC/LCO MOISTURE RETENTION

YOU WILL NEED:

• ANIM Chia Seed Leave-In Conditioner

• ANIM Shea Butter with Jamaican Black Castor Oil

This step can be completed at the end of your wash day regimen and can also be used as a daily hair care regimen to ensure your

hair retains moisture. - See inforgraphic on page 14.

• Beginning on damp, detangled sections, apply a pea-sized

amount of the ANIM Chia Seed Leave-In Conditioner to

complete the ‘L’ step of this method.

• As both your ‘O’ and ‘C’ of your LOC method apply the

ANIM Shea Butter with Jamaican Black Castor Oil which

contains both the ‘O’ and ‘C’ in order to seal in moisture.

• Braid hair into a protective style like flat twists, two strand

twists or three strand plaits.


NIGHT TIME ROUTINE CHECKLIST

A consistent night t ime routine that protects your precious crown from your tossing and turning while you sleep is essential to reaching your #hairgoals. Here’s a checkl ist to help you make sure that you have al l the tools you need

in your arsenal.

WIDE TOOTH COMB AND LEAVE-IN CONDITIONER

NIGHT BRAID

LOC PRODUCTS

SATIN BONNET

DETANGLE NOURISH

STRETCH DRY PROTECT

TOUBLESHOOTING

NATURAL HAIR


TOUBLESHOOTING

NATURAL HAIR

STRETCHING HACKS

Every now and then you might want show off your hard earned length retention. In this case you’ ll need safe ways of stretching your curls because #shrinkageisreal.

Stretching natural hair is also essential for effectively maintaining moisture levels. Both nat-ural oils occuring on the scalp in the form of sebum and oils applied externally work more effectively when applied to stretched hair.

Here are 3 popular methods of safely stretching your hair.

IONIC HAIR DRYERS • Ionic dryers emit negatively charged ions that allow water molecules divide into smaller particles that evaporate faster.

This cuts down the amount of time needed to dry or stretch the hair which in turn cuts down the amount of time your hair is exposed to heat.

TENSION METHOD • Working section by section, stretch the section of wet or damp hair, holding it taut at the ends and running the hair dryer along the hair starnds until section is sufficiently stretched.

AFRICAN THREADING • This technique has its roots in many African cultures and involves using a thread (weaving thread or good old wool) to bind sections of hair from root to tip, effectively stretching out tightly coiled hair.


CONDITIONING HACKS

Particularly if you have low porosity hair, you will benefit from adding some heat to your deep conditioning process. This allows the cuticles to relax and lift so that the product can more effectively penetrate the hair strands. Here are some suggested methods of applying heat.

BAGGIE METHOD • This technique simply involves a pair of plas-tic shopping bags and a warm cloth (soaked in hot water and wrung). Cover your deep conditioned hair with one of the plastics and place your warm cloth on top of it. Finally place the second bag over the cloth and let the deep conditioner to do its work.

ELECTRONIC DEEP CONDITIONING CAP • This is a cap with heat pads that are placed on your head. You then sit beneath it as you would a steamer at the salon. Available on https://bebouncehair.com

MICROWAVABLE DEEP CONDITIONING CAP • Place a plastic bag over your head. Heat up your microwaveable deep conditioning cap in the microwave, place over plastic bag and allow to sit for at least 15 minutes. Available at www.marleygrey.co.za

HACKS

MOISTURE RETENTION

BELOW ARE THE 5 COMANDMENTS OF MOISTURE RETENTION.


HACKS

MOISTURE RETENTION

BELOW ARE THE 5 COMANDMENTS OF MOISTURE RETENTION.

ALWAYS APPLY PRODUCT(S) on damp hair to allow for their optimal absorption into strands.

MAXIMISE ON MOISTURE already on your hair after rinsing by always applying a leave-in and a sealant (oil or butter) using the LOC/LCO method on damp hair.

DEEP CONDITION HAIR at least once a week.

KEEP YOUR HAIR AND TIPS secured in protective hairstyles.

FOR LOW POROSITY HAIR steaming of hair allows the closed cuticles to open up thus enabling moisture to enter into the hair shaft.


HACKS

LENGTH RETENTION

MOISTURE • Dry hair will break. Stay moisturized.

TRIMMING • Clip those split ends off using a sharp pair of scissors or hair shears (pre-ferrable). Holding onto damaged ends results in mid shaft breakage, leading to poor length retention. Trim as frequently as is needed.

PROTECTIVE STYLES • Keep hair in a style that keeps those ends tucked away e.g. roll and tuck styles, cornrows, braids, flat twists, buns (ensure all installations are never tight to prevent stressing of roots and edges - tight installations are a gateway to traction alopecia).

MANIPULATION • Any kind of hair handling needs to be done on damp hair with a leave-in applied onto it to provide slip. Damp hair is more elastic than dry hair and thus is less susceptible to breakage. Always handle your precious locs with care.

NIGHT TIME • Always cover your hair with a satin scarf or bonnet to prevent drying and breakage of strands on cotton sheets and pillow cases. For extra protection against breakage consider investing in satin pillow cases.

BELOW ARE THE 5 COMANDMENTS OF LENGTH RETENTION.


HACKS

LENGTH RETENTION

HACKS GENERAL

MAINTENANCE

AVOID REPEATEDLY WEARING STYLES which expose your ends to the elements and clothing. This leads to accelerated breakage. Such styles include wash and goes, twist/braid outs, bantu knot outs.

TOUGH, IMPENETRABLE KNOTS ARE AN UNFORTUNATE OCCASIONAL FIND IN NATURAL HAIR. If finger detangling does not loosen these knots, simply snip them off and keep it moving. Tearing/pulling these knots out only brings added breakage in the hair surrounding the knot

TREAT YOUR HAIR AS YOU WOULD A SILK GARMENT - it ’s just as delicate. “Heavy handedness” is not an option when handling natural hair.

BELOW ARE THE 5 COMANDMENTS OF LENGTH RETENTION.


F E E L B E A U T I F U L , N A T U R A L L Y .

W W W . A N I M N A T U R A L S . C O . Z A

ANIM HAIR BIBLE · 2019-03-13 · the hair strands. NATURAL HAIR HOW WE DEFINE IT Making the choice...

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Transcript of ANIM HAIR BIBLE · 2019-03-13 · the hair strands. NATURAL HAIR HOW WE DEFINE IT Making the choice...