Ancient Indian Fashion Facts

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Ancient Indian Fashion Facts It may be surprising to some, but garments were not really stitched together during the ancient days in India. Read on to know many such interesting facts about ancient Indian fashion and how those trends are still being used today, in a modified way. India has a rich culture and tradition

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Transcript of Ancient Indian Fashion Facts

Ancient Indian Fashion FactsIt may be surprising to some, but garments were not really stitched together during the ancient days in India. Read on to know many such interesting facts about ancient Indian fashion and how those trends are still being used today, in a modified way.

India has a rich culture and tradition which is reflected in the clothing as well. Indian fashion has seen a metamorphosis since the ancient days. Although, the basics of clothing are the same, we can find a lot of western influences and modern designs that have been incorporated into the basic structure of any Indian outfit. So, what was ancient Indian fashion actually like? It was the time when there were no designers displaying their haute couture to pamper a luxurious line of clientele. Ancient India had its own kind of customs and traditions that were to be followed by generations and we can see its presence felt even today.

Facts on Ancient Indian WardrobeCotton clothing was predominantly used in India during the olden days. This was as early as the Harappan civilization. During the Aryan period, Sari became the traditional clothing of Indian women. Sari is a long piece of cloth that can be wrapped in different ways over the body. Saris were also made in silk apart from the regular cotton ones. (Wealthy women only wore silk in the ancient days.) Saris were generally having the length of five yards or even nine yards, at times. The sari was worn as a skirt with the upper half thrown above the shoulder and sometimes worn over the head as a kind of a veil. Sometimes, the sari was even tucked between the legs to form a pattern of a pant. Even today, the tradition way of wearing a sari is still followed; sometimes with some modifications as well, which would depend upon the latest trends.

The Indian sari has always been a very elegant piece of garment, which was always worn with a choli or a blouse. The choli is a tight fitting blouse that is worn under the sari. This pattern evolved around the tenth century and some of the first designs covered only the front area, with the back being bare in this case. During the ancient days, such blouses were not stitched at all; in fact this garment was simply fastened at the back with a knot. Today, the basic choli is worn in various styles from halters to tube tops and although such designs are considered 'modern', the basics of these can be traced in ancient India.

A startling fact about ancient Indian fashion was that the clothes were not stitched together at all. They did not really have garments that were sewed together! This was because most of the clothing was ready-to-wear, as soon as they left the loom. Examples of these would be the dhoti, the sari, the turban and the scarf. Men wear the dhoti even today; though this is definitely not worn by the average working man; it is still visible on the fashion runways and design houses as well. The dhoti covers the legs and has one end of it that is passed between the legs, which is then tucked behind. Dhotis were generally worn short and did not have the part that covered the chest and the shoulder area. Men combined these dhotis with turbans; these were also wrapped around the head in a particular fashion.

Although the saris and the dhotis have never gone out of fashion, with the Persian influences in Indian fashion, women and men wore long tunics that went down to the knees with pants that were known as churidars. Ancient Indian attire also includes the very popular, versatile, comfortable and stylish salwar-kameez. The salwar is a loose trouser whose basic design has been modified since ancient days. The tunics were worn with churidars or the loose salwars. Indian couture can never be complete without the mention of the bindi. The basic form was a dot, which was worn on the forehead as a symbol of marriage. Today, even unmarried women in India wear the bindi, which is designed in various forms and shapes, colors as well as textures.

Gold was popular since the ancient days in India. This was always worn on the skin at all times. It was always believed that gold, as a metal, has the power to purify anything that it comes in contact with it. Gold was used since the days of the ancient Mohenjodaro and Harappa civilizations. Apart from such ornamental decorations, one also saw the use of flowers worn in the hair and eye makeup that always included kajal for the eyes. Ancient Indian fashion could never be complete without these elements.

By Kashmira Lad

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A thin aerial veil is drawn o'er beauty's face, seeming to hide, more sweetly shows the blushing bride. ~ Richard Crashaw

A traditional Indian wedding is a vibrant and elaborate affair with the blushing bride being the cynosure of the ceremony. The Indian bride has a variety of bridal wear options to shimmer, sparkle and glow as she drapes herself in the choicest of embroidered fabrics and elegant jewels. Although conventionally Indian wear is synonymous with the Sari, the ghagra choli, lehenga and the salwar kameez, most of the people outside India do not know of the multiple choices available in each category. India being a country with diverse religions and cultures, every religion, culture or region boasts of a unique wedding style replete with their regional specialties and diverse rituals.

Types of Traditional Indian Bridal Wear

Since India is home to a large number of cultures and religions, it might be impossible to list down the bridal wear variations in every religion and the following sub-sections. Here are some of the popular Indian bridal wear styles that exist in prominent sections and cultures of the Indian heritage:

The Punjabi Bride: The traditional bride in Punjab can wear either a sari or a lehenga. The colors that are generally worn are vibrant colors like red, orange or magenta. The sari or the lehenga is heavily embroidered with phulkari work which involves use of darn stitch on the wrong side of a coarse cotton cloth with colored silken threads. Although many interesting patterns of phulkari work can be seen, traditional motifs of wheat and barley stalks are commonly printed. Usually, the bride wears gold jewelry. Another characteristic feature of traditional Punjabibridal attire is the chuda that is a set of red and cream ivory bangles.

The Maharashtrian Bride: Owing to the fact that the green color is considered as auspicious and also a sign of prosperity in the state of Maharashtra, the bride is usually draped in a green sari with traditional zari embroidery which involves fine gold or silver threads woven into fabrics. The paithani is perhaps the most popular sari in Maharashtra named after the Paithan region in the state where these saris are woven by hand. Made with the finest silk, the paithani, is characterized by borders of an oblique square design, and a pallu with a peacock design. Also famous is the nauvari sari which is a sari that is nine-yards in length. Although the nauvari style originated in the era of the Maratha empire, where women ventured into the battlefields in crucial times of war, the nauvari sari is a popular form of trousseau in Maharashtra till date. Usually the jewelry includes gold ornaments with pearls. The bride also wears the famous nath which is a pearl crusted nose ring.

The Bengali Bride: The traditional Bengali bride is draped in a Benarasi sari with a wide zari border and a red cheli or veil on her head. The bride wear an attractive headgear called sholar mukut which is a crown carved out of bark of a tree. The bride's forehead is adorned with interesting motifs made with sandalwood paste. The bride wears traditional heavy gold jewelry and her head is covered with a dupatta. Traditionally, the bride wears three types of bangles namely shankha (conch shell bangle), pala (lacquer bangle), and loha (iron bangle).

The Muslim Bride: The Muslim brides are always dressed in cherry red bridal robes. The lehenga or the salwar kameez is heavily embroidered usually with golden work. Silk is generally the fabric of choice in traditional Muslim bridal attire. The bride's head is always covered with a Ghungat that covers not just the head but also the shoulders, back and comes down almost to the waistline

The Catholic Bride: The Indian Catholic bride is no different from Catholic brides across the globe. The traditional Catholic bride wears a white / off-white bridal gown with a delicate veil, where the colors symbolize purity.

The Tamilian Bride: In Tamil Nadu the bride is draped in a red or maroon sari. The kanjeevaram sari is a very popular type of sari that is created in a small town of Kanchi in Tamil Nadu. The traditional bride in Tamil Nadu adorns her hair with fresh orange and white flowers. In addition to the other common jewelry, the bride traditionally wears traditional jewelry like raakudi which is worn in the hair and the oddiannam which is a type of ornamental belt.

Contemporary Indian Bridal Wear

Although traditional bridal attire continues to be popular with Indian brides, many of the brides are always keen on trying out more contemporary or even designer bridal wear for their wedding day. The traditional kanjeevaram sari, Paithani sari do exist, but they have been upgraded with more contemporary designs and motifs. Traditional saris are now made available with more options in terms of the colors as well as the embroidery patterns. Geometrical patterns, abstracts are finding a place in Indian bridal wear as well. The traditional ghagra choli is also now available with more modern patterns and cuts. The traditional Indian bridal wear has now evolved to encompass the more contemporary fashion trends across the globe.

Bridal Sari: The contemporary bridal saris that are available today, retain the elegance of the traditional look and yet manage to add a streak of modern fashion trends with interesting variations. The traditional blouse worn with the sari had traveled beyond the puffed sleeves to include interesting noodle straps, fashionable necklines, and heavy embroidery. The Indian brides have also come up with more modern draping patterns for the sari. The Indian bride is now experimenting with more contemporary colors that were once perceived as rather unconventional. Blushing pinks, marine colors, cool pastel shades, earth colors are now becoming a part of the bridal trousseau.

Lehengas and Ghagra Choli: Just like the sari the lehenga has evolved in this era of fashion and style. The regular lehenga or the ghagra which was like a flared long skirt, is now being experimented with. The Indian bridal wear options now include pleated, embroidered and even fish cut lehengas. The dupatta or the chunari which is an integral part of the Indian bridal wear is now available in more fabrics and more contemporary embroideries, dyes, and even handwork. The choli as mentioned earlier has gone uber cool with sleeve-less, strapless, narrow-strapped, or noodle strap varieties.

What's Hot in Contemporary Indian Bridal Wear

Colors: Although the Indian bridal wear has traditionally been limited to a few colors the Indian brides are increasingly experimenting with more unconventional colors. For those who prefer the traditional colors, there is an option to have an ensemble that blends a traditional color with another to create a balanced look. Rust color, metallic shades with golden or silver tints can make a trousseau look elegant and rich. The more unconventional colors are also in vogue. Earth colors, pastel shades, or the more unconventional lavender, pinks and blues are also in fashion. The key is to maintain the traditional elegance with a streak of modern flamboyance.

Fabrics: Although the traditional silk still remains to be the fabric of choice for most Indian bridal wear, there is now a wide variety of silks like metallic silk and crepe silk. If you are ready to look beyond the silk, you can pick from a wide variety of contemporary fabrics ranging from the crepe, Georgette, or even the exquisite jute varieties. Picking out the fabric largely depends on the style of your wedding ensemble and your personal preference.

Embroidery: The traditional embroidery for Indian bridal wear of course retains the old-world charm but the contemporary embroidery patterns offer to add a modern streak to bridal wear. Modern embroidery patterns range from geometrical shapes, asymmetrical patterns to abstracts. Although many would find it absurd to sport a trousseau that has abstract embroidery over it, you can use these patterns wisely to incorporate them in your traditional look. Expensive crystals, precious and semi precious stones and beads are increasingly used in the Indian bridal wear as well.

Accessories: The Contemporary Indian bridal wear is chic and smart replete with all the right fashion accessories. The traditional heavy golden jewelry is replaced with more elegant gold designs. Diamonds, rubies and other precious stones encrusted in white gold or platinum have become increasingly popular with the brides. The Indian bridal wear is now complemented with interesting fashion accessories be it the jewelry, the sequined clutch bags or even elegant tiaras. The sandals not only match the trousseau in terms of color but also come with fine embroidery and gems. An elegant brooch with diamonds, gems or precious stones is another hot bridal accessory.

The traditional Indian bridal wear symbolized the rich ancient culture, but the contemporary Indian bridal wear brings a subtle blend of the new and the old as the Indian bride awaits at the doorsteps of womanhood with elegance, confidence, and mesmerizing beauty.

By Uttara ManoharRead more at Buzzle: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/indian-bridal-wear.htmlIndian ClothesWith Indian clothes gaining a global appeal, these garments have come a long way in its worldwide acceptance. If you need to revamp your wardrobe, read on to know some of the must-haves in Indian clothes.

Indian clothes are fast gaining prominence in the global market. In India, almost every state has its own distinctive style and ways of dressing and one can see that ethnic wear really rules Indian style of dressing. Women in India still follow the traditional styles of Indian clothes although now one can see a western influence in it as well. Indian clothes, though traditional and ethnic in their appeal, have a large market due to the versatility it offers. They can be structured to look really modern and even ethnic, at the same time. Every community in India has something new to offer as far as the designs are concerned. Colors are used in abundance and this is visible in the colorful costumes of the women in Gujrat and Rajasthan as well. From being rich and elaborate to being glamorous and sensual, Indian clothes have a lot more to offer than you could ever imagine. Take a peek into some of the basics of Indian clothing and why these are a rage even today.

Types of Indian ClothesIndian women and the sari have always been a longstanding affair. This is definitely the most sensual and glamorous outfit that has gone through various modifications along the way. For those who are not really acquainted with a sari, this is a long strip of cloth that is always worn with a top or blouse (choli). This garment can be patterned, plain, having detailed embroidery to almost sheer in its material. This long strip of cloth has varying length of four to nine meters. One end of the sari is draped around the waist and the other is arranged over the shoulder. There are different ways of draping a sari as well, which would depend upon the state or upon the creativity of the person. The tops or the blouse is generally worn with short sleeves but due to the Indo western influence, many designs that incorporate halters and backless designs, are quite popular as well. (Though some fashionistas argue that halter and tube top designs actually originated in the ancient days of India itself and are not a product of western influences.)

Indian clothes also incorporate the Salwar Kameez, which is very popular amongst women for the comfort and the versatility it offers. The Salwar Kameez is a flowing dress and always has the three elements-the salwar, kurta and the dupatta. The styles of the Salwar Kameez also vary and today we can see variations in the fit, lengths of the kurtas, patterns and silhouettes as well. The Indo-western styles have an interesting mix with loads of detailed work as well. Bandhani, beaded sequins, block prints, chikankari are some of the most favorites. This is also called a Punjabi suit because of its popularity in Punjab. The kameez is a tunic worn over the salwar that is baggy with folds or fitting as well. Chiffons, denim, silk, cotton, georgette etc are some of the fabrics that can be used for Salwar Kameez. Halter designs and designer backs have also been infused with the traditional structure of the Salwar Kameez.

Most Indian weddings can never be complete without the heavily embroidered or embellished saris, but another such popular garment in traditional clothing is the Ghaghra Choli or the Lehenga Choli. Also known as the Sharara at times, this traditional dress was first introduced to India during the Mughal rule. The Ghaghra choli also consists of three elements- a long flowing skirt (Ghaghra), a fitting top, also known as the choli and a dupatta. Shararas are mostly fitted till the knee area and flare towards the bottom half. When worn for weddings, these Shararas are heavily embroidered or embellished with various design elements. The dupatta has always been worn to cover the head but today there are various ways used to drape the dupatta, apart from the traditional ways. Bright and loud colors such as red, pink and even gold are very much in demand when it comes to bridal wear. The Lehenga Choli or the Ghaghra Choli also varies in its looks as per the areas or regions in India. These can be shimmering to heavily embellished garments and look grand when teamed with gold accessories and Kundan jewelry that completes the look. Because of the grandeur of such Indian clothing, these are mostly popular for weddings and other formal and typically Indian functions.

The traditional clothing for men has always been the dhoti kurta. Even this ethnic attire has been a part of the Indo-western culture and has seen many modifications till date. Worn on an everyday basis in ancient India, the dhoti kurta was therefore considered as a part of casual wear for men. Today, it is a part of formal wear as well; due to the abundance of designer wear clothing in the market. The dhoti is a rectangular piece of cloth that is worn around the waist and legs. There are various styles of wearing the dhoti as well; this largely depends upon every state in India. Generally, it is folded around the waist and the top ends are tied in the front and the left and the right ends are tucked in the back. The dhoti is worn with a kurta, which is a long fitting garment on the lines of a shirt. The Dhoti Kurta is also worn with a dupatta for formal occasions. In South India, men sometimes fold the dhoti in half and tuck it into the waist so that it only reaches the knees, as it gets too cumbersome to manage.

The Sherwani is another such popular garment amongst Indian clothes. This resembles a coat and is also worn only during weddings and festive occasions. The Sherwani is worn by men although this is very heavily embroidered at times. This coat often fits the body snugly and is generally worn with a loose pant, churidar or even a dhoti. The origins of Sherwani at times it attributed to Central Asia. Donning a Sherwani is considered to be a mark of royalty and a symbol of status, since the ancient days.

As compared to all the above-mentioned outfits, Indian clothing also includes the lungi which is perhaps the most simplest and easy-to-wear attire! This garment is worn around the waist and flows down to the ankles. Worn by men especially in South India, the lungi is now being worn by women as well. The modified and hip version of the lungi is called the sarong or wrap-around skirts that are available in varied lengths. Available in solid colors and zany prints as well, the lungi is a favorite amongst many, especially in areas that have a hot and humid climate. These are tied or fastened at the waist in various ways.

The turban has always been the one main accessory that has blended well with the Indian clothing. This is worn on the head and consists of a single piece of cloth that is wrapped around the head area. Although Indian men today do not really use the turban on an everyday basis, it was a common affair in ancient India, as a means of protection from the heat. Turbans are therefore popular in Rajasthan and are also associated with the Sikh community in India. The turban also has a religious significance in India. The shades of the turban are also used to signify different meanings as well.

Whatever the occasion or region in India, Indian clothing has come a long way from the way garments are styled and their reach, globally. With every state having its own unique and characteristic feature, the variety that one may see in can be mind-boggling at times! Although most fashionable garments have a certain shelf life, they are definitely here to stay!

By Kashmira LadRead more at Buzzle: http://www.buzzle.com/articles/indian-clothes.htmlThe Sari - Mystery and GraceThe quintessential eastern fashion statement, the sari seems to be the most misunderstood garment, in the history of apparels. Though a number of European designers are increasingly vouching for its comfort and beauty, it is still an enigma for western cultures, mysteriously draped and staying in place without any help from pins or buttons!!!!!

A charming folktale goes "The Sari, it is said, was born on the loom of a fanciful weaver. He dreamed about a woman. The shimmer of her tears. The drape of her tumbling hair. The colors of her many moods. The softness of her touch. All these he wove together. He couldn't stop. He wove for many yards. And when he was done, the story goes, he sat back and smiled and smiled and smiled."

The long length of garment in rich hues weaves and warps, is just another few yards of textile, till it is draped on a woman's body. And that is the beginning of the transformation, both for the garment and the woman. The world's oldest surviving fashion statement, the sari first finds mention in the Vedas, the ancient wisdom of the Asian sub-continent. More than 5000 years ago it existed in a similar form and was called `cheera', meaning covering cloth. Some people think that Indian sari is influenced by Greek or Roman toga, which can be seen on ancient Roman statues. This is not correct. Saree is essentially Indian in nature and was best suited to local climatic conditions. Cotton was cultivated in India centuries before Alexander the Great landed on the borders of India and Indian cloth was a wonder to the Greeks. In fact, Herodotus and other ancient western historians thought there were trees in India which grew cloth!

Times changed and its patterns changed too, and after many changes, evolution and styles later, it is today the primary wear of the Indian woman, and still the only wear for the rural Indian woman. More than 75% of the population of the Indian subcontinent wears the sari, in one form or the other.

The dress has survived the test of time, cultural invasions and even colonization. It is to its credit that the Muslim invasions, Europe colonization and even the recent globalization of styles, fashions and cultural ethos, have not managed to dent the authenticity, utility or the fan following of the sari. It still is considered the best dress for occasions like marriages, festivals and gifting to women, across the length and breadth of the country. Another interesting thing that is now seen is the adaptation of the sari for nouveau fashion styles, even by some European fashion houses. One can understand the interest that the classically oriented French culture can have for a classically beautiful garment like the sari.

The sari, in its original form, was a single length of cloth with designs, worn pleated on the lower half of the body and draped across the upper part. It is worn in at least 10 to 15 styles throughout the India, though the ways of wearing above used to be common. In Maharashtra and North Karnataka region, wearing a nine-yard Saree (without a petticoat - long underskirt - which was superfluous) was in vogue till 20th century. In many tribal cultures of India it is still worn like that. But after the entry of Muslim and Middle Eastern influences in India, the petticoat or the undergarment covering the lower half of the body, started. The sari was fastened on this base layer, pleated to allow free movement of the legs, then the remaining garment thrown over the shoulder to drape the top.

The style of draping the sari differs between regions in India. The rural women wear it with the topmost pleat tucked into their backs, going from between the legs, and this seems to be the most comfortable style as far as hard workingwomen are concerned. The warrior queens who went to battle on horseback would wear their saris this way, so do the women who work in the fields, as hard as their men themselves, planting, hoeing and transplanting. The garment is convenient because it leaves the arms and legs free, covers the essential parts and gives a good drape too.

In other areas, styles differ, in the cities, it is worn with more style, even as a glamorous party outfit. The sari can be made to resemble shorts, trousers, flowing gown-like or convenient skirt-wise-all without a single stitch!

The textile used to make this ethereal garment boasts of real variety. From the diaphanous cottons, soft and delicate, the muslin from Dhaka, to the sturdy silks of South India, the weaves and wafts hold sway. Each region has its own special texture and design, depending on the regional crafts and the climate of that particular area. Woven silks, gauzy muslins and textured silk cottons hold sway over millions of female hearts.

The areas which are hot and humid around the year have a unique style where the upper part of the body is not restricted to any more clothing, hence the traditional mundu of South India-Kerala is comfortable for women in those sticky, long months of tropical monsoon.

The garment has undergone functional changes even if its original style has stayed. For instance, the warrior races of Northwest India, the Rajputs developed the `odhni', a slightly shorter garment worn over a flowing skirt and upper garment. The flowing skirt is called ghaghra and owes its origins to the gandharan garment that was wore in these regions in ancient times. The upper garment in the form of a small jacket or blouse is a Victorian addition, because when European cultures came into India, they were in the Victorian era, so even a naked ankle was scandal. For the far more open culture of India, this was difficult, but a mean had to be struck. So the sari adopted the blouse to please the colonial masters. Traditionally, Indian women wore what was called a kanchuki ( a single cloth tied across the breasts, much like a strapless bikini top), and there are many paintings and other evidences to prove this. But those were the times of the Kama Sutra, and for a culture that can come up with a treatise on sex, a revealing female garment was nothing extraordinary. In fact, prudery came to India only after the tenth century, first in the form of the Purdah with Muslim invaders, then Victorian values with the colonizers.

This 'odhni' should be diaphanous, soft and billowing, conceal and yet give away the curves and beauty of its wearer. In fact, that is what the sari is supposed to do, and it does its job quite well.

The sari is perhaps the only garment in the world that can make its wearer look modest and demure while baring the midriff, outlining the hips and draping sensuously around the curve of the waist, What is revealed is much more than what is concealed, the modesty is retained and the sensuousness is effectively conveyed. What better statement of fashion does one need?

Do you think traditional apparel is more graceful than contemporary designs?

Yes, after all, they have centuries of designing behind themNo, modern clothes are more functionalIt depends on the occasionWho wants to be traditional in these racy times?Read more at Buzzle: http://www.buzzle.com/editorials/2-19-2004-50775.asp