Anarchist's Home Companion (CookBook)

8/10/2019 Anarchist's Home Companion (CookBook)

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Home Companion. First Release: June 1st 1989(Canada Day...what a country!)



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The Anarchist's Home Companion. _______________________________________________________________________________

Table Of Contents: _______________________________________________________________________________

I An Introduction to the Anarchial Arts. Pg. 3

II The Tools of the Arts................. Pg. 4 III Mild Anarchism........................ Pg. 5 IV Anarchy for Amusement................. Pg. 6 V Anarchy for Profit.................... Pg. 8 VI Havoc and Hell........................ Pg. 10 VII The Black Arts........................ Pg. 12

VIII Theft:................................ Pg. 13 A Single Party Theft.............. Pg. 14 B Multiple-Party Theft............ Pg. 15

C Other Forms of Theft............ Pg. 16 IX Destruction:.......................... Pg. 19 A Home Made Weapons............... Pg. 21 B Interesting Ideas............... Pg. 22 C The Fun Part.................... Pg. 23

X Deception............................. Pg. 24 XI Sub-Forms............................. Pg. 25 XII Weapons and Explosives:............... Pg. 26 A Home-Made Explosives............ Pg. 27 B Chemical Explosives............. Pg. 39 XIII General Anarchy....................... Pg. 41 XIV More Easy Gadgets..................... Pg. 43 XV Complex Explosives:................... Pg. 50 A Common "Weak" Explosives........ Pg. 51 B Thermite Reactions.............. Pg. 53 C Nitrogen-Containing High Exp.... Pg. 54 D Other Stuff..................... Pg. 56 XVI Stars, Flares, and Color Mixtures..... Pg. 57

XVII The Chemistry of Pyrotechnics......... Pg. 64 Note Sheets........................... Pg. 70



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Chapter One: An Introduction to the Anarchial Arts _______________________________________________________________________________

First off, I guess I must allot for those of you who don't know what I meanwhen I say Anarchy. (ALWAYS capitalize that word...don't forget!) Well, maybeI should start off with a definition..

Anarchy: <`an-ahr-kee>...noun. 1. A social structure without law and order, government, or authority. 2. Utter confusion. 3. A rebellion against what's accepted as right or correct.

Ya...right outta Webster's own, there. Well, I HOPE that you got someidea as to what I'm talking about from that. If not, toss this out...itisn't for you. Done? Okay. Now that only the REAL people of the world arehere, we may commence the study of the perfection of this art, and examinesome of the newer developments and state-of-the-art achievements in thisreligious pastime.



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Chapter Two: The Tools of the Arts _______________________________________________________________________________

Explosives - A personal favorite. As everybody knows, there are many,many, files floating 'round out there on this topic.

I have seen docs and plans for everything from thefront axle car bomb to the exploding ball-point pen.So, you should have no trouble with this section...

Flammables - Gasoline, hairspray, ANYTHING that burns enthusiastically classifies. However, with the availability of gasoline, and the relative inexpensivity, (now .68/gal!), this most often becomes the chosen fluid. Attain some, and I'll tell you what to do with it later...

Projectiles - Yes, even the most basic of prehistoric weaponry can be the Anarchist's best friend. Everything from rocks to eggs to your little brother classifies, anything that can

be used to damage or destroy when thrown will do... however, due to the relative inexpensiveness and

availability of rocks leads to their wide usage... Instability - C'mon, let's not be silly. Every Anarchist is so BECAUSE

of an inherent mental imbalance. A true Anarchist is a psychopathic Anarchist. This REALLY comes in handy when preparing for a "run", for to an Anarchist, quite simply, the mad, the impossible, isn't. This is sometimes referred to by Anarchists as "guts" or "balls"...

Transportation - (Preferably motorized... be real). Or, in many cases, a flock of such. A mandatory requirement for a successful authoritative attack, for true Anarchists don't get caught at the scene...



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Chapter Three: Mild Anarchism _______________________________________________________________________________

As much as people would like to deny it, prank calls, yes, prank callsare a form of what could be known as "pre-Anarchy". It can even be found inThe Specter's infamous satire of the loser, "Anarchy for the PreAdolescent",under "Major Devilment for the American Youngster." Face it, EVERYBODYas made prank calls once in a while for entertainment, and we still do, yetnow it's more for profit than for amusement. Even the universally-despised jokes, phrases, and clauses told to preteens by their visitinggrandparents such as, "Excuse me, but is your refrigerator running?" and,"Is there a John in the house?" are heard from time to time spewing forthfrom the mouths of giggling infants into the phone receiver into your hatefulear. It's unavoidable. Yet they do successfully annoy you, therefore, inessence, completing SOME form of mild anarchy. Face it, like it or not,these little jerks are the future freaks and Anarchists of America...

More inventive forms of this nature include ringing doorbells andrunning, putting a modem on auto-redial at an enemy's home, letting air outof your neighbor's tires, and selling fake raffle tickets...(100% profit!)

Yet, we must move on...



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Chapter Four: Anarchy for Amusement _______________________________________________________________________________

Yes, Anarchy CAN be an entertainment outlet for a slow Saturdaynight! Just get a couple friends together, grab some brew, and you're offto wreak unholy havoc upon society! But what to do first? Hmm, you consultyour ever- ready "Anarchist's Handbook," and espy the chapter, "FunThrough Blatant Destruction of Property!" Aha. That's the one, but how?Well...

A. Spray Paint - Fun stuff! Sure, why not, for no reason at all, just go out and paint "@#$% You!" all over everything in sight, or maybe the infamous Anarchy sign, an encircled "A" everywhere? Why not, YOU won't have to clean up that mess? Hey! Why not paint "Can't Drive 55" signs all up and down Interstate 75 like on Sammy Hagar's album? A warning, though. Park OFF of the InterState, like in a parking lot on a nearby road. That way, when the pigs see you, you've got plenty of time to scramble to the car and get away. Also, paint can be "picked up"

quite easily from any drug store or hardware store, or, if you're not "into shoplifting," it's relatively cheap. A movie's about $4.50, a can of paint's $1.75 or so, I don't know, haven't BOUGHT any in quite some time.. But in any case, it's cheap entertainment. Not even a new flick can get your heart racing like a cop chase can.

B. Destruction - Where are those bricks I threw back here?!? Hmm, maybe one or two would look good in Ms. Johnson's living room? Sure, the colors match beautifully! But, aw shucks, the door's shut. No need to bother the sweet old bitch, we will just have to put them there ourselves...but how? A window -- perfect. Just toss 'em in there! I'm sure

she'd like to thank you for your good day, but the Good Book says that we shouldn't do something for the thanks that we receive, but just out of the goodness of our heart...so, get out of there before she sees you and tries to thank you personally it's the "good thing".

C. An Invasion - (of privacy, that is!) Blackmail material, possibly? I wonder... Grab your ever-handy beige boxes! A swift kick to the bottom of the phone box should cause it to open freely. Alligator clips, do your stuff.. But if you'd prefer continual results, simply plant a "bug" in their house when you're there, like under the kitchen table, and, can't forget, under the bed... There are

literally hundreds of plans circulating for the quick- 'n-easy construction and usage of this homemade hardware also, don't gripe if you can't find any, 'cause if you can't, then you just haven't been looking!



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Chapter Five: Anarchy for Profit _______________________________________________________________________________

Financial gain is the goal, social disruption is the route. No, I'mnot talking about becoming a "hit-man" for the mob or anything, just someclean fun, and a little profit on the side. Sure, you could use step "C"above for blackmail and information hostage purposes, but let's be a littleinventive, that's been being done for YEARS..

No, you can't say that making people pay "protection money" isinventive. G'zus, it's on the "A-Team" every week, for chrissakes! Let'sthink.. Watch we make money by calling with MCI, Metro, and Sprint, but,that's not outright collection of payment, that's...well, that's morelike SAVING money, like clipping coupons in the newspaper, if youwill...you get what you want for a lower price than usual. We need money,and we need it NOW! Maybe if you're.. "into" this stuff..<ahem>..you couldpossibly CREATE an imaginary employee at some company deep within thebowels of the conglomerate computer? Maybe send his paychecks to amysterious P.O. Box? Sure, why the hell not? Hey, this P.O. Box stuffsounds good. I wonder...

Visa...MasterCard...American Express...Diner's Club...K-MartCredit Cards! Sure, goods on credit! It's the AMERICAN way, after all, isn'tit? Why not do some late-night trashing? G'z..you'll have to miss DavidLetterman!?! Just go up to the video store, (Highland's the easiest:they've a "no-questions-asked" return policy), and "buy" a VCR. (I'm sureyou can get ahold of your mummy's credit card for an hour or so to do a littleshopping..). Next stop, Radio Shack. Waltz inside like you're some richpreppie/yuppie with all the money in the world, and he won't notice theholes in your faded jeans, he'll think that they're "in." Sunglassesalways work best, for some reason, rich people tend to wear 'em a lot. (Whynot slip a pack of ten'a dem cheap-ass Tandy disks into your jacket aslong's you're there? Don't worry...alltheir "security systems" are

Tandy-Made, so they always work like crap anyhow..) Yes, sir, I'd like tobuy THAT model. Yes, that's right, the TX156-34YI38Ejr. Yes, I thinkthat'll be all. Here's my card. I'll sign...okie. Thank YOU, sir.(After all, you need some toons for tonight's trashing..) Now, return yourmummy's card, and, as soon'z it's dark, we're off! (But don't forget toreturn the box and the VCR after tonight, you can buy them on somebody else'scard tomorrow! Or else mommie'll get mad...)

Try to locate an "everything store," like K-Mart or Major's. These placesare the most open, the most disorganized. 9 times out of 10 there will bea couple large trash bins behind the store. Whatever they try to tell you,they most often will NOT lock these, because that's the job of the stockboy, and he's most often more concerned with Jenny, the salesclerk in

Electronics to bother once he's off work. Most of their stock boys are about16 or 17, so as long as they're NORMAL teen-agers, they'll do as little aspossible to keep from being fired. Why lock the bins, sir, who would wantto go in THERE?!? I would.. EVERYTHING they have goes in there. Thesalesclerks are SUPPOSED to rip the carbons in half, but we know how oftenthey REALLY do that. Even when they do, it's no problem getting the name,number, and anything else you may need for card identification off of aripped carbon, they usually stick to each other anyhow.. Get one kid to keepwatch, and everybody else go fishing for anything...computer access codes,(good luck at K-Mart!), telephone numbers, credit check phone numbers, but,



most of all, look for card carbons! These will provide you with a limitlesssource of TV-Ad goodies and mail-order stuff.. This search should takeanywhere from :30 min to all night, depending on cop surveillance. Fillsuitcases and travel bags with anything that looks important, you cansort it all out at home.. (This is one good thing about K-Mart, there's noproduce section..no rotting food to sift through..)

Got it all? Now, just flip on a local station, or MTV, or whatever, and,before you can say "I Love Ma Bell," you'll run across 9 or 10 million ads forstuff like "Ronco 'In the Shell' Egg Scramblers" and "ACME Nosehair Clippers"and the like..write down the phone number for the company that makes whateverproduct you could want, and give them your name, (off of the card, stupid!),and your card number..and presto! In 4 to 6 weeks, you've got your own brandnew set of Ronco Party Circumcisers..free of charge. (YOU try to say "I LoveMa Bell"...*I* can't!) Another good idea is to cruse over to the 7-11 and,onceyou've gotten your Slurpee, buy a lot of mail-order magazines, (ie. NinjaMagazines, etc.) They've got a lot of card order forms and phone numbers..But, don't forget! NEVER SEND THE GOODS TO YOUR HOME! That's the PERFECTloser thing to do.. Always find a "drop point," like a vacant house which isfor sale, or a P.O. Box. You cannot be traced back through either method...Have fun...



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Chapter Six: Havoc and Hell _______________________________________________________________________________

Just what you've been waiting for, I knew it. Well, there are SOmany different forms of Anarchial aggression that it would be impossible toeven TRY to list them all. New and inventive methods of destruction are beingconjured up every day, so I'll just try to give a brief overview. First off,I'd like to state that you don't HAVE to be a stoner or a headbanger to be anAnarchist, you don't even have to drink alcohol. You can be perfectly NORMALand...well, I guess if you didn't do any of that you wouldn't be normal,would you? Anyhow, you can be perfectly NORM..er..ODD..and still be anAnarchist at heart you don't have to be into blatant destruction, you don'teven have to like heavy metal music...but it helps. Who knows, maybe youjust like to replace normal light bulbs with gasoline-filled ones? Maybeyou just, for some reason, enjoy running down little kiddies.. YOU can't helpit. So, if you can't help it, pursue it. Become the best hit-and-runartist on your block! Maybe even in the whole county! Modify yourvehicle to your interests and mount a kangaroo bar on the front of yourFord Bronco or S-15, so that the people you run over slide more easilyunder your car...maybe even put a window in the floor so you can see

who you just helplessly maimed? Ms. Johnson? Oh- hello...did you enjoythe bricks? You did? That's good. If they convulse, you did it right.

A good way to make a great start on a successful career as another oneof "those 'Anarchial @#$holes'" is to try drowning the neighbor's cat intheir pool. Hmm, knowing how much cats hate water, we'll have to try to finda way around their fears...see how thoughtful Anarchists have to be? Ithink that it's a very good training for future life myself.. Hmm, howzaboutthe infamous TV favorite, "cement shoes?" Perfect. But how to get the catinto cement? Ah- replace the kitty litter with cement and spike the cat'swater with something like the cyanide found in many medicines. It's barelyperceptible, so the catill get blitzed off of its ass and then go to thekitty litter, and get stuck inside.. Cats make a LOT of noise when they

realize that they've been trapped, so act quickly before suspicions arise..Slip the cement out of the bin, (don't forget to use "no-stick" PAMbefore!), with the cat stuck by all four legs inside, and have a friendwash out the bin quickly..it should be somewhat clean, so then re-fill itwith kitty litter before you are noticed. Hurry up, or you'll miss all thefun. Drop the kitty into the pool. If you used the right cement, then youwon't have to worry about it sinking.. It is actually quite interesting theway that all the cat's fur floats in the water with every current! Wild..

Next target...the dog! Make your own lynch plan for the dog, Ihaven't perfected one as of yet, they are too big and noisy.. (I don'tconsider chihuahuas and the like to be dogs..they are just sub-dogs) You cantreat sub-dogs as cats, though, if you want the cat to have some company...

Hey, why not try the bird? Easily captured, easily cemented! It reallyis quite funny watching a bird try and fly with it's feet cemented.. don'tworry, they sink just as well as anything... Most of all, though, have funat it..experiment!



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Chapter Seven: The Black arts _______________________________________________________________________________

Well here it is, the path to true Anarchy... Are you worthy of the titleof a true Anarchist? We will soon see. The Black arts are Theft,Deception, Destruction and all sub-forms of Anarchy. To master thetechniques involved takes time and patience but most of all, it has to be inyour blood! You can always tell the difference between a True Anarchist anda dabbler... Pulling the fire alarm at school doesn't cut it (Althoughthat can be fun during a slow day)... Anyone can do that, BUT, can you doit without getting caught? Well,that is the tough part. Even at an earlyage one can see the signs of Anarchy emerge... if a kid watches MisterRogers all day, forget it but if he builds crude weapons out of householditems and delights in torturing the family pet, his sister etc.. then hehas potential.

Anarchy usually starts off small and grows over a long period of time...at first, primitive forms of Anarchy such as crank calls, nicky nine doorsand petty theft will begin the process. At this point, frequentfailure or getting caught may put a stop to the increasing chaotic

tendencies within the person in question. If the little bastard issuccessful in his endeavors, however, he will move on to bigger and betterthings. The real fun stuff starts in high-school... there are endlesspossibilities for amusement at the expense of others... these will bedocumented later. One thing to remember however is that there are manyobstacles which stand in your path such as COPS, locks, alarms and ofcourse, the most important thing to watch out for is carelessness on yourpart. It is because of carelessness that many good hellraisers have met theirfate. Well, enough bull@#$%, let's get started!



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Chapter Eight: Theft _______________________________________________________________________________

Theft is one of the most common forms of Anarchy, almost everyone doesit at one point in their lives... Even the Pope probably stole dime-storecandies when he was a kid... Not everyone, however, will perform thismaneuver to the same extent or with the same rate of success. TheCARELESS ones get eliminated by the forces of good. Regardless of themotive, the objective is always the same... To acquire at no cost and withminimal effort, items which are not originally or rightfully yours... Thereare two sub-classes of theft. These are single party theft and multipleparty theft (with accomplice). Regardless of the type of theft, thereare three important elements to consider: Planning, Execution, andESCAPE. The latter is probably the hardest part and must be plannedcarefully. A plan is always required for a successful theft and shouldoffer a high probability of success with as little risk as possible.



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Part A: Single party theft _______________________________________________________________________________

It is a good idea to make a surveillance sweep of the targetarea beforehand in order to decide on the best route to the desired item and aquick escape route. Always have at least one alternative escape route incase of unexpected intervention by cops or onlookers which render yourfirst one impassable. Once you have entered the target area, time is ofthe utmost importance... Get in and out as quickly as possible... Bediscrete and do not attract attention. Always make a quick scan for mirrorsor cameras, try to stay out of direct sight of others.

Sometimes, the easiest things to take are items which are kept right infront of the cashier... all it takes is for him to turn his back for onesecond and before you know it... FREE JUNK FOOD! Be alert, if there are otherpeople present, do not go directly to the desired item. Browse a little, buttake the first reasonably safe opportunity to make your way over to it.Pocket the item quickly without looking at it or fumbling with it. DO NOTrush out of the area immediately if you don't have to, be casual and maybeeven make a purchase. If you are confronted however, GET THE $#@! OUT Take

the quickest one of your escape routes that you can, if you are perusedthen you must leave a difficult trail to follow. Dodge on and out ofbuildings or cars, backtrack, hop fences or do what ever you have to do tolose them. If possible, motorized transport is a good idea... (cover thelicense plate) If not, then work with what you have, create obstacles as yougo, such as throwing objects at your pursuers or knocking things down in yourwake.

Sometimes, a good cop chase can really give you a good feeling... It suresatisfies the Rambo in me! If you are forced to deviate from your plan dueto unexpected interference, follow your instincts... but remember that atrue Anarchist doesn't get caught at the scene! If it seems inevitable thatyou will be caught, stash the goods somewhere safe until you can collect it.

After you have bin caught then it's all over...unless, you lie like abitch or your captor turns out to be a friend of the family. If youescape, then you have successfully completed your mission. Hopefully youwill have the foresight not to hit a store in your neighborhood or one thatyou go to regularly. Try not to hit the same place every time... that'sdangerous!

For an added challenge, you may want to try to swipe items storedbehind the cashier's counter. There are ways to do this such as the classic"Can I use your phone? I'm stranded and need to call home" Heh, if they letyou then your only problem is how to distract their attention. For thisreason, it is often easier to execute a successful theft if you have anaccomplice...



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Part B: Multiple party theft _______________________________________________________________________________

In a multiple party theft, the basics are the same but certainadjustments must be made to your plan. First you must decide who will dowhat... One person as to distract the attention of onlookers while theother performs the actual crime. You should have included a signal in yourplan so that the you can discretely inform your buddy that you have thegoods and it's time to leave. A third person may have been posted as alook-out and if so, must also be kept aware of what's going' on.

One of the important tricks is to make it look like you don't know anyof your accomplishes... don't walk in together or leave together, unless youget burned. If you are confronted, then it is not always necessary for allthe members of your team to flee if you have successfully convinced the telleryou are not together.

The guy with the goods has to split BUT while the Cashier is chasinghim, or calling the cops, what better opportunity will the other two have tofill their pockets? If it becomes necessary for all parties to run, at least

you now have an added benefit due to the fact that if you split up, it'sharder to catch all of you. It is an unwritten rule that a guy who getscaught can't squeal on the others if there is a chance they can get away withit. You should have a specified rendezvous point and time if you split up soall the parties (minus those who were bagged) can meet and decide onappropriate actions to take to insure no further problems will arise.

After a few hits with the same people, you should have a kick-ass teamand will be able to tackle anything! One thing though, always watch your backcause as Stalin said "You can't trust anyone, not even yourself."



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Part C: Other forms of theft _______________________________________________________________________________

Well, if your not into stealing' from convenience stores, there aremany available sources of "low-cost" items, such as cars, houses, purses &wallets and my personal favorite... school lockers!

Cars are easy... just get a 1.5 ft. long piece of flexible but sturdywire (coathanger will do) and bend a loop at the end to fit over the lockbutton. Slide the wire through the gap between the window and the middlesection of the car (not the top of the window). Now loop the end around thelock button and pull. For newer cars that do not have the lockbutton buthave the switch by the lever on the inside door panel, you need moreequipment. You will need a flashlight, a mirror and a coathanger.

Before you begin, look through the opposite window at the door yourgonna open and memorize where everything is positioned. Now, tape the mirrorto the outside of that window with the reflective surface facing into thecar. If you have a friend helping you, you don't need the mirror as your

friend can stand on the opposite side of the car and see through that windowwhere you have to move. Now slip the coathanger in as above and use thewindow to bend it as you insert it so it touches the inside of the door...using the mirror or your friend to guide your movements, unlock the doorand there you go!

If you are in a hurry or don't need to worry about noise or anything,just throw a brick through the window. Remember to search the dashboard,glove compartment and back window ledge. If you have a lock pick set and canuse it, go for the trunk to!

Motorcycles are a cinch to swipe. All you need are a pair of vice-grips,a screwdriver and a dime. Jam the screwdriver into the ignition, clamp the

vice-grips to the shaft of the screwdriver and twist... -=SNAP!=- Now justpress the start button and away you go! When you've had your fun and ya wannaditch the bike, drop the dime into the ignition keyhole and give it aquarter turn to turn off the engine.

Now, the most risky but often most profitable source is a house. Beforeyou even approach the house, phone to make sure they're not in. If you don'thave their number or they are a bunch of rug-pilots who don't have a phone,ring the doorbell... once you have established the fact that they are nothome, you can decide on your method of entry.

To break into a house, Your two sources of entry are doors and

windows. Before I start describing methods to bypass locks and bolts,remember that if you think there is a security system on the house FORGET ITand move on... why risk it? Anyway, there are many types of door locks andfor most you will need a lock pick set which will be dealt with in aseparate chapter. If you have a lot of time and are in a deserted area, youcan use various power tools to destroy the door itself. Windows are theharder to reach but more simply bypassed entry routes. There is either adeadbolt or a simple twist/pull lock for both, you just blow a hole in thewindow just above the lock (with a bee-bee gun) or bar and use wire or athin screwdriver to knock the bar out or release the lock.



Apartment buildings are also a good target... just go into the frontdoors and press every intercom button on the panel. Some deluded idiot willlet you in. If not, wait `till a resident comes in and pretend to befumbling for the door key... he will of course, open the door for you...Heh. Once you get in, make sure no one is home... then grab a pillow case ora garbage bag and take everything that is even remotely valuable! Once youhave done that, cut the phone line and GET THE @#$%^ OUT!!! MissionAccomplished....

Lockers!The easiest way to get money or goods for nothing. One way is to write

down the serial # and the combination of the lock your using this year andthen next year, find it and voila! In the mean time, you have to findalternate methods to keep you busy for a whole year, but look... there arehundreds of lockers! With little peckers you can stand behind them andsimply watch them enter the combination.

If you want to hit a locker belonging to an older student, you have tobe covert about it. You might as well start close to home by easily breakinginto the lockers on either side of yours. This method is simple but requirestime and you will need a hex-driver. Look at the inside panel of your lockerthat forms the wall separating it from the adjacent one. If the heads of thebolts are on your side, you will have no problems. Just unscrew the bolts and

remove the panel... Hmm... now why didn't you think of that before? Well, now you know. Most of the schools supply spin combo locks thatare hard to pick so if all else fails, use those heavy duty metal shears tocut through the shank. Once your in, you are on your own... Have fun!

The last type of theft I will discuss is the art of picking pockets.This method is becoming more and more difficult with the advent of self-defense lessons... yes!... even little Grandma Johnson could be a black belt.Basically all you have to do is either run by the victim and snatch it, orwait `till they put it down somewhere where you can whisk it away. Once youhave the purse or wallet, there are many things you can do... Money! I'm sure

you can all find a use for that... Credit Cards! Now we're talking! You cango crazy ordering and carding everything you desire (not to your house)...You may find a spare key in there to, if so, look at the I.D. in thewallet to find out their address and away you go! Geez, what a week forthe poor sucker eh! First his wallet now his house and car!!! Heh, always bethorough...

NOTE: ALWAYS LEAVE THE SCENE AS YOU FOUND IT SO THE VICTIM WILL TAKE LONGER TO NOTICE A CRIME HAS BEEN COMMITTED.



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Chapter Nine: Destruction _______________________________________________________________________________

Ahhh, there's nothing' like a good hour of destruction to relieve allthat tension after failing your math exam. Yeah you remember, the one youwere supposed to be studying for while you were mixing explosives in thegarage.

This form of Anarchy allows for more creativity than most. You canstick to doing mild damage with your hands or you can obtain a widevariety of weapons for more severe effects. It is usually easier to make yourown weapons and there are a large number of chapters dealing with theproduction of explosives and simple weapons. For a successful strike on yourtarget area, you will need the following:

o Camouflage (dark clothing, mask)- To prevent discovery & Identification

o A small bat or solid stick/bar - To eliminate people or dogs who get in

the way & to increase destructive power

o A small, "efficient" weapon - For serious emergen- cies only! (knives or

mini-chucks are good)

o Flashlight - So you can see!

o Several projectiles - To increase fire power and range

o Smoke Bombs - A valuable tool,

o FIRE - .......... A MUST!!!!

o Explosives - Not compulsory for the job but they sure add a spark to the evening!

o Spray Paint - To mark out your territory & let the world know you were there...

o Lock Picks & a Bag - Just in case an easy target for theft presents itself while your vandalizing.



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Part A: Home-Made Weapons _______________________________________________________________________________

Mini-Chucks:

These little babies are easy to make and are easily concealable. Allyou need are a pair of those metal nut-crackers and a 2 foot length ofchain. First, take the nut crackers and cut through the hinge with metal-shears, being sure to leave the rivets intact. Now open up the last link ateach end of the chain and close them around the rivet shaft on the metalbars. HEY! Look what you've done... little nun-chakaus.

Tennis Ball Bombs:

Cut a one inch slit in the tennis ball and stuff it full of woodenmatch-heads. (A little gunpowder adds to the effect) Once the ball is firmlypacked, it will detonate on contact with a solid surface producing largeamounts of flame and flaming projectiles.

Flaming Darts/ Exploding Darts:

Take ordinary darts and wrap an oil soaked strip of rag around theshaft. Then just light and throw. For an exploding dart, tie a cherry bombto the shaft using a twist tie and light the fuse.

Molocov Cocktail:

Fill a Pepsi bottle half way to the top with gasoline, insert a rag,light and throw... instant hell fire!



_______________________________________________________________________________

Part B: Interesting Ideas _______________________________________________________________________________

Try out these nasty thoughts on your local loser:

Personalized Lawns:

Sure! Why not leave your initials on the guys lawn using gasoline orweed-killer? Better yet, if your artistic, a graphic picture of himpumping the local stray dog... heh, long-lasting damage!

Hose Through The Mail Slot:

Stick the end of the garden hose through the mail slot in his door,then crank the faucet and run like a *&^%er! If you do this at 3am, his housewill be floating down the street before he even wakes up.

Address Switching: Use your trusty screwdriver to switch address numbers and steal mailboxesthroughout the neighborhood. Heh, if you find the right numbers, you canmake three houses in a row with the same address, the fun part is when youorder a party-size pizza to that address. (If you are really on the ball youcan rip off the delivery car while Guido is walking from door to door).



_______________________________________________________________________________

Part C: The Fun Part _______________________________________________________________________________

Once you have all your equipment, your ready to go. Easy targets aremail boxes, bird feeders, X-mas lights (when in season) and greenhouses. Theweapon you will use most is the bat or steel bar you brought along in yourtrusty Anarchist's bag. Remember to spray paint the traditional encircled "A"where ever you go to let the world know Anarchy is alive an' well.

If you possess a slight sadistic streak, domestic pets can makeamusing targets. The classic " "cement shoes" is good to drown the neighborscat in their pool. Fire can be used in countless ways to destroy almostanything. The good part is once you've set the fire, it will continue to dodamage while you are running' to the next target. The interesting thing iswhen you are spotted and chased.

Now you have to use some direct methods to evade capture. Start offmild by simply running. If they persist, create obstacles as you go byknocking things down in your wake, jumping' fences, cars, etc.. If thatfails, try a few smoke bombs lobbed over your shoulder to block their

view... NO! Hmmmm well it's time to get serious because you smoke too muchto stay ahead for long. Sooo, use the explosives... that should do it butif not, just turn around, whip out the projectiles or the weapon of yourchoice an' just beat the living' &^%$# out of `em. Now you can go home, beingsure to spray paint an encircled "A" on Mr. Johnson's bleeding forehead...(heh, I doubt he'll chase you next time).



_______________________________________________________________________________

Chapter Ten: Deception _______________________________________________________________________________

Well, anyone who has done anything similar to the acts describedabove must also have found it necessary to lie once in a while. Remember thatto get away with lying, you must make the lie seem like reality. If youconvince yourself that it is true then others are more likely to believeyou. It's a good idea to make sure all the people involved in the caper havethe exact same story.

Always stick to your story and never stray from it. Try to havesupporting evidence on your side too, go for realism! Unfortunately, no bookis gonna turn a lousy liar into a good one... it has to be in your blood, itdoes, honest!



_______________________________________________________________________________

Chapter Eleven: Sub-Forms _______________________________________________________________________________

Aside from the themes outlined above, there are many other formsof Anarchial behavior. Some people are specialists in one area likePyromaniacs or assasins. Others tend to be less proficient in a wider rangeof areas. For those of you who are specialists, SPEAK UP! There are manypeople who are hungry for material which you could provide from yourexperience. Those of you who don't even bother and are just reading thisbook for entertainment... "*&^% OFF!" I don't have time for pussies... Iwould suggest that you find out what your specific interests are and pursuethem. Whatever your topic is, there is a book on it somewhere... believe me!If you are not sure where your skills lie, then start small until you findthem. I know your all probably saying "C'mon, get on with it @$$hole!" So,here we go...



_______________________________________________________________________________

Chapter Twelve: Weapons & Explosives _______________________________________________________________________________

Introduction:

Assuming that you have read the first bit in this series and that you area true Anarchist, I'm sure you will find this chapter both interestingand useful. We have compiled some of the easiest to make but mostdestructive devices in the Anarchist's arsenal of home-made weapons andexplosives. A true Anarchist has a remarkable ability to overcome anyobstacle using only the materials at his disposal. I am not saying that youneed to know 100 different ways to kill a man with a stapler, just that youshould be able to get by using whatever you have. This chapter shows youa few ways to increase your destructive power using simple householditems. Remember that there is a certain element of risk involved inhandling some of the devices which you will see, so please use caution.Neither myself nor anyone associated with the creation of this bookwill take any responsibility for damage or injury sustained as a result ofattempting any of the procedures depicted.



_______________________________________________________________________________

Part A: Home-Made Explosives _______________________________________________________________________________

The Motor Mine _______________________________________________________________________________

This device causes basically the same damage as the "basic mine", but itis more convenient if the intended victim happens to miss stepping onit.

Materials: Film Canister ( or any container ) ----------

Match Books ( 17 fill a Black's film canister )

Wire ( preferably long lengths )

Small Electric Motor

Battery & Push-button Switch

Method:

First, take the lid of your container and make a small hole in it.This should be big enough to hold the axle of the motor snugly. You need tomake a small cardboard disk or, if you can find one, a small plastic gear-like piece meant to fit on an electric motor. You have to cover this smalldisk ( about 1 cm. wide ) with the brimstone from the matchbooks.

Fill the container with match-heads, push the motor's axle through thelid and push the disk onto the axle from the other side. Now put on the lidand tape the whole thing up, plus the motor so it doesn't wobble around. Hook

your wire up to the terminals on the motor and then to a switch or abattery or whatever. Conceal the mother and stand back. You will hear ahigh pitched screech of the motor grinding and then BOOM! Works well.



_______________________________________________________________________________

Time Bomb _______________________________________________________________________________

This device isn't too hard to make, but it does have a limitation.It doesn't work on the principle that the time you set it to is when it goesoff, it's more of a mechanical thing....just read.

Materials:

o Some sort of container o Wooden Matches ( 17 boxes fill a film canister but if

you want a bigger bomb, buy about 50 or so boxes and fill a 2ltr. pop bottle.

o Small Electric Motor o Friction Disk ( see previous file "motor mine" ) o Wire o Battery ( 9 volt should do it ) o Cheap Clock with hands o Electrical Tape

Method: 1) Make the "motor mine" explained above. 2) Instead of both leads going straight to the battery, you will have a clock in between, with the faceplate taken off. 3) Tie the positive and negative leads to the clock hands and set them to an appropriate distance apart. 4) When the hands meet, this will complete the circuit which will start the motor. The Friction disk will spin and rub against the matchheads and KABOOM!!

Note: To increase the power of this device, gun powder may be added to The match-heads to fill the container.

Here's a Diagram: __________ Clock with hands-> ! \ __!___

________________________________!___\ /~ ! | | ___________ _ ! ~o ! | +-~ |_______+___-/ | ! ! | ____##____<-Motor [ ] | !_________! | !* * * * *! [9v ] | | !* * * * *! [___] |________________| !* * * * *! !* * * * *! ^ !* * * * *! Battery ~~~~~~~~~~~

^ Container filled with match-heads



_______________________________________________________________________________

Napalm Bomb _______________________________________________________________________________

Napalm is, in itself a very simple substance. It can be used forin the construction of many simple explosive weapons. Here's a good one:

Materials: ---------- Gasoline Dishsoap (Joy is good)

A Nail Ammonia PelletsA Drill Flexible WireA Coke can

Procedure: ----------

[1] First, make a mixture of 1/2 Dish-soap and 1/2 Gasoline. [2] Cut the top off of the Coke can and fill it with the mixture. [3] Take the drill and put a hole in the ammonia pellet big enough so

that the nail can fit through it. [4] Put the nail through the pellet and wire it to the top of the can

so that the nail can be slipped out easily, allowing the pellet to drop into the mixture. [5] Attach some string or fishing line to the nail head and detonate

from a distance by pulling the string.

WARNING: DO NOT LET THAT PELLET FALL INTO THE MIXTURE UNTIL YOU ARE SAFE OR YOUR WIFE WILL SOON BECOME A WIDOW! Wait until you are ready to set it off to pull the string... It should look like this:

Ammonia Pellet /

<====[*]====() <- Nail | | | | <- Coke Can | | |===========| |===========| |===========| <- Mixture |===========| |===========| ~-----------~



_______________________________________________________________________________

Das Crackkerwork! _______________________________________________________________________________

Das Crackkerwork: A neat way to scare the $#!^ out of someone and to ---------------- cause moderate amounts of damage.

Materials: o A rocket engine (The bigger the better but class ---------- A will do fine)

o A fire cracker

o Tape

o A kick-ass nature

First, take the engine, it will have one hollow end and the otherend is filled with the rocket fuel (it resembles clay). Take ascrewdriver or something hard and start grinding up the substance from theinside.

Don't grind up the thing totally though. Now put the firecracker inside the engine, with the fuse sticking out of the convenient hole.The hole is usually used for solar flares.

Now tape up the son of a bitch so that it's black an' mean looking.

Finally, light it and throw it, the fire cracker will go off (butwon't damage the engine), then the engine will ignite and go whippingaround. It makes a lot of ruckus and the exhaust can cause damage.

Diagram: ----------

Fuse/ _ / | |~~| |__| <- Fire-cracker inside engine body | | and fuse through little hole in | | rocket substance. |__|

Basically, it looks like one mean fire-cracker...

Have fun with Das Crackkerwork !



_______________________________________________________________________________

Smoke Bomb _______________________________________________________________________________

Materials Diagram ----------- ---------

- Coffee can - screen \ <-fuse - Fuse or Rag - \__\___ - Gunpowder - !__/___! - Motor Oil - ! \ !<- gunpowder - Screen - coffee can ->!__/___! - Lighter - !______!<- motor oil


1) Pour a 1/2 inch layer of motor oil into the coffee can. 2) Pour in some gun powder ( The more, the merrier ) 3) Cut a 6" diameter circle of metal screening and poke a

small hole in the center of it. 4) Place the screen on top of the can and secure it. 5) Insert a dry fuse or oiled rag through the screen so

that it reaches the bottom of the can. 6) Light the fuse.

This device will produce extremely large amounts of smoke and flame.



_______________________________________________________________________________

How To Make A Fuse _______________________________________________________________________________

One reason for which many well made bombs fail is the lack of agood fuse. To make a dry fuse, you will need the following:

o Several sheets of tissue paper (The kind used for machee) o Gasoline/Kerosene o Gunpowder o A paint brush o Patience

Method: ---------

1) Use the paint brush to apply a thin film of gasoline on a sheet of tissue paper.

2) Let dry 3) Sprinkle a thin line of gunpowder onto the paper 4) Roll the paper up tightly from one end

5) Apply a few more layers by repeating steps 1&2 and rolling each new layer around the existing fuse. 6) Let the whole thing sit for a couple of hours 7) Apply a final coating of gasoline with the paintbrush 8) After it is completely dry, it will work beautifully

Note: ------- Experiments are currently being done in an attempt to design

a fuse which will burn under water.



_______________________________________________________________________________

Tennis Ball Grenade _______________________________________________________________________________

Most of you have probably heard of the Tennis Ball Bomb. It is ahandy explosive or noisemaker. The Tennis Ball Grenade is based on the sameidea but does more damage.

You will need the following:

1) A Tennis Ball 2) A Knife 3) Several boxes of wooden matches (not safety matches) 4) Hockey Tape 5) Gunpowder 6) A Sparkler 7) Flint

Method: -------

1) Cut a small round hole in the ball with the knife 2) Take the flint (the kind used for flip-top lighters) and crush it into a powder 3) Separate the wire handle from the sparkler and grind it up 4) Mix the flint and sparkler powder together with gunpowder 5) Pour the mixture into the tennis ball 6) Cut off the match-heads and pack the ball with them until you can't fit anymore into it. 7) Use the tape to cover the hole completely 8) The grenade will explode on contact with any solid surface, producing large amounts of flame and flaming projectiles. 9) [optional] For a delayed blast grenade, insert a dry fuse into

the hole before you tape it up. These babies are easy to make, light weight, concealable and do plentyof damage for their size....in general, a kick-ass weapon. You can make dozensof them for hours of enjoyment.



_______________________________________________________________________________

The Boom-Box _______________________________________________________________________________

The Boom-Box is simple to make and is very effective. It isan antipersonnel device and works on one or more victims.

Materials: ----------

o A metal box with a hinged lid o String o A mouse trap o C-4 or any volatile plastic explosive o Tape


1) Secure the mousetrap to the bottom of the box (inside)

with tape. 2) Tie a piece of string to the trip-bar of the mouse trap 3) Place a wad of C-4 where the cheese would normally go and

be sure that the spring loaded bar will hit it 4) Set the trap 5) CAREFULLY tape the other end of the string to the inside

of the lid so that it is taught when only half open 6) Close the box 7) Leave the box somewhere where the intended victim will find

it, when he does...he will open it and BOOM!

Diagram: --------

\ / \ <- lid string -> / \

____/_____\. | / | | o/____ |

mouse trap -> | ======= | <- metal box with C-4 ~----------~



_______________________________________________________________________________

Exploding Pen _______________________________________________________________________________

This device is hardly a weapon but it is a mild explosive andwill serve as a good prank or practical joke. If you wanted to increase thepower of the explosive, it would not be hard to hard to turn it into adestructive device with a few alterations to the construction.

Materials: ----------

1) A ball point "click" pen 2) Gun powder 3) 8-10 wooden match heads 4) 1 wooden match 5) A piece of sand paper (1 1/2" X 2")

Procedure:

---------- 1) Unscrew pen and remove all parts except for the button at

the top of the pen 2) Stick the match inside the pen where the ink fill was 3) Roll the sand paper around the match with the rough side

facing in so it touches the match head 4) Put the remaining match heads in, be sure they are inside

the sand paper 5) Put a wax stopper in the other end of the pen where the ball

point came out 6) Fill the front part of the pen with gunpowder and make sure

that the wax prevents it from spilling out

The finished pen should look like this:

Wax stopper Gun powder Matches & Sandpaper \ | | \ | | \ _______________|___________________________|________

<___________________________________|________________|=== / /Clicker

Applications: -------------

Basically, anywhere there is writing to be done, there isa target for this device. Think of exams!! Heh, I don't think many people willbe asking to borrow a pen from now on.



_______________________________________________________________________________

The Cat Bomb _______________________________________________________________________________

This bit is for amusement only. We suggest that you do not try this outat home.

It has come to my attention that a real panic can be generated by acat-bomb in a supermarket or department store.

A cat-bomb is a simple and inexpensive thing to make.

Materials: ---------- 1 cat - large 1 sparkler or 1 ft. of waterproof fuse 1 acetylene/oxygen torch 1 book of matches

Procedure:

---------- Squeeze all air and $#!^ out of cat, being careful not to kill same. Insert torch nozzle into cat's ass. Turn on a 50/50 mixture of the gasses, inflating the cat to approximately 1/3 larger than normal. Insert either sparkler or fuse into cat's ass being careful to minimize gas release (some recommend stapling the orifice shut after insertion of fuse) very messy!

Deployment: ----------- Place cat in a place of demonstration, and light fuse with matches. Retire quickly to a safe place, (entrails will be a-flying soon)

Cautions: --------- Recent experiments with larger animals have shown a 10 minuterailroad flare to be of substantially greater sealing capacity than the fuseor sparkler method. Greater gas retention and thus a greater explosion arepossible in this manner.



_______________________________________________________________________________

Part B: Chemical Explosives _______________________________________________________________________________

Astrolite Mixtures _______________________________________________________________________________

Astrolite: ----------

Astrolite is a liquid explosive which was a product of rocketpropellant research in the 60's. Astrolite A-1-5 is said to be the world'smost powerful non-nuclear explosive. It is approximately 2 times more powerfulthan TNT and is safer to handle.

Astrolite G -----------

Astrolite G is a clear liquid explosive especially designed toproduce very high detonation velocity, 8600 mps (meters/sec.) compared with

7,700 mps for nitroglycerin and 6,900 mps for TNT...In addition, avery unusual characteristic is that the liquid explosive has the abilityto be absorbed easily into the ground while remaining detonatable... Infield tests, Astrolite G has remained detonatable in the ground for 4 days,even after being exposed to rain.


Mix 2 parts (by weight) of ammonium nitrate with 1 partanhydrous hydrazine. The 2:1 ratio is not exactly perfect but if you screwaround with the mixture, you will find a better formula. Hydrazine is quite

hard to get ahold of. It is used in; Rocket fuel, agricultural chemicals(maleic hydrazide), drugs (antibacterial & antihypertension),polymerization catalyst, solder fluxes, photographic development & divingequipment. Hydrazine is a chemical that you should be careful with.

Astrolite A/A-1-5 -----------------

Mix 20% (weight) aluminum powder to the ammonium nitrate, and thenmix with the hydrazine. The aluminum powder should be 100 mesh or finer.Astrolite A has a detonation velocity of 7,800 mps.



_______________________________________________________________________________

Sodium Chlorate Mixtures _______________________________________________________________________________

Sodium Chlorate: ----------------

Sodium chlorate is similar to potassium chlorate, and in mostcases can be a substitute. Sodium chlorate is also more soluble in water.You can find sodium chlorate at any hardware/home improvement store. It isused in blowtorches and you can get about 3 lbs. for $7.50

SC Rocket Fuel -------------- Mix 50% sodium chlorate

35% rubber cement10% epoxy resin hardener 5% sulfur

You may want to add more sodium chlorate depending on the purity you

are using.

SC Incendiary Mixture SC Impact Mixture --------------------- ----------------- Mix 55% aluminum powder Mix 50% red phosphorus

45% sodium chlorate 50% sodium chlorate 5% sulfur

SC Filler Explosive SC Gunpowder ------------------- ------------ Mix 85% sodium chlorate Mix 65% sodium chlorate

10% vaseline 22% charcoal 5% aluminum powder 13% sulfur A sprinkling of graphite



_______________________________________________________________________________

Chapter Thirteen: General Anarchy _______________________________________________________________________________

J.L. Hudsons! Bring a good, strong magnet with you, and head forthe clothing section... Look at the clothes on the rack, look at the tag...

___________________ | | | X X X X X X X | |:::::::::::::::::::| |___________________|

See that row of colons ^^ I drew? Well, that represents themagnetic strip which they use for inventory purposes. If you erase this stripwith the magnet, the cash register won't be able to read the tag and the ladywill have to enter the whole number... this gets very nasty if you erasethe tags on almost every shirt, blouse, etc. in the store... most of thestuff has more than one tag, be sure to erase both...

Anywhere: Bring a small screwdriver with you, find one of thosedrinking fountains that has a cooling system, (it makes a humming sound every

so often, and there is a fan).. Reach underneath, behind it and find thecoolant line that is the largest. Next, find the little valve on it, it willhave a cap on it. Remove the cap and you will see what looks like abicycle- type valve. Poke it with the screwdriver until some air is suckedinto the system.. Then get out of there, the compressor will make somestrange noises, then will quit. In a few minutes, it will cool off, and tryto start again. This cycle will destroy the compressor...ha.

Restrooms: Take the toilet paper and pull off a section about 4 feetin length. Stick it in the toilet the flush it down.. If you still haveyour screwdriver, turn the water inlet valve to full - this is that valveon a normal toilet...

-*==0 | |

-------

It's a little hard to understand, but it is usually capped, take offthe cap. If you do it right, the whole roll of toilet paper will be gonein no time - keep doing it 'till it floods...!

Any Store! Some stores have a security system that employs the useof little plastic buttons, slips, or disks that are fastened to articlesof clothing. Inside these articles are a piece of copperish-looking foilcoated with some green plastic marked, "Inventory Control - Property of the

Store." (In some cases, this piece of plastic is placed on a string all byitself..)

Take this piece of plastic and do any of the following - drop it intoa bag or the pocket of another piece of clothing, (they won't be able to findit but it will trigger the alarm all the time!).. Find a little kid standingall by himself, and tell him it's a special magic card, and to keep it!(Once he leaves, the alarm will go off, and his parents will getbusted..) Or, of course, you can drop it into the bag of another customer,that's always fun..



Any Large Department Store: Sometimes there are phones laying aroundin unsupervised check-out booths, (like in hudson's or something), pick upthe phone, and dial a three digit number - this usually connects you withanother part of the store - after some real pranking around the whole store,you might want to walk around and see what you've done; (usually, there willbe a small store directory taped into the handset, it always comes in handy.)

The HardWare Department: Find a small cylinder of methylacetylene propeniene, (or the tradename "mapp"), and jam a small nail intothe top, not allowing too much gas to escape at one time... The smell of thegas you will soon find out is -->terrible<-- and if left around slowlyreleasing the gas, it might cause an explosion, (if it is near the electricaland lighting dept.), or most likely it will cause some really pissed customerswho smell the stuff; it really smells bad!!

Elevators: Remember when your parents got pissed when you messed withthe buttons on an elevator? Well, forget that - find the switch,usually a pushtype, and turn it off when you are at a floor. Most peopledon't know how the hell to work it, and will get quite pissed...

Also, push and stick one of the buttons down, (lets say the highestfloor so it is in a non-traffic area), with some gum or tape or a nail; theelevator will always seek that floor when it's not being called by other

floors - over time, it becomes slower and slower... At A Large Department Store: Find one of those brass disks on thefloor.. Stand on it and turn your whole body counter-clockwise to unscrew it.Take a look inside, and you'll see a pair of wires that look very thin,there is a good chance that those are serial register bus wires. Stripthem, (with your handy-dandy swiss), and touch them together, if there is asmall spark, you're in luck. If there is a large spark forget where youread this - this will effectively knock out all the data transmissionsfrom each register to the master computer, depending on the setup, eachregister might go dead.. (What a mess...)



_______________________________________________________________________________

Chapter Fourteen: More easy gadgets _______________________________________________________________________________

These devices aren't of the chemical nature, so they shouldn't be hardfor anyone to build. They are also the kinds of devices which can beimproved by simply making them bigger.

_______________________________________________________________________________

Simple mine _______________________________________________________________________________

This is where it all started. The simple land mine is used inother devices. The device itself isn't complicated, but takes patience tomake it work well.

Materials: Film Canister (or Folger's Coffee can if you wanna blow away the block)

Packs of matches (17 fill a film canister).

Patience.

First, take the lid of the canister or can, etc. and cut a square holein the lid the width of the striking strip on a book of matches (about 5mm).Next, cut 4 striker strips off the matchbooks. With these you must make a"box". You might want to leave an extra millimeter of cardboard on the edgeof the strips, and bend them so you can glue the edges of each striptogether. Because it's hard to glue just edges together.

Form the box around a pencil or something, so you can have supportwhen gluing it. Make sure the whole inside of the box is the brimstone sideof the strips. What it will look like when it's made is a 3cm long hollowbox, with the ends open. You then push this box halfway through the lid withthe hole in it. Now cut the joint edges of the box only on the top side ofthe lid, so you can fold these sides down to the lid, to hold it better. Itnow will look like a lid, will a cross of cardboard on the top side, and onthe underside, the rest of the box is sticking out. Next cut your matchheads off and fill the canister.

Then, take 2 or 3 matches, tape them together tightly, and insertthem Carefully in the "box" from the top side of the lid. MAKE SURE they fit

snugly, otherwise they'll slip about and won't strike the insides of thebox and therefore light everything else.

Finally, put the lid on, and tape the son of a bitch up as muchas possible, over the lid as well. Bury the whole thing in the ground so justthe "button" (the 2 or 3 matches, which are about half way into the box)are sticking above ground. And when someone steps on it, BOOM! Of coursewith a film canister, the explosion isn't too big, but if you had a Godamncoffee can, you could blow someone's foot off. Or a 2 litre pop bottle, usingthe cap in place of the lid!!



_______________________________________________________________________________

String Cannon _______________________________________________________________________________

Once again, the basic principle of the mine is used here.

Materials: Container.

Matchbooks.

Piece of piping with one end closed off (makesure it is possible to put a hole in theclosed end though). ABS piping (availableat Home Hardware) Blacks is good becausethe film canisters fit PERFECTLY. But onlythe see through ones. Ask Blacks forTRANSPARENT film canisters.

String.

Violent nature.

Ok, make a basic mine (you MUST have the mine to do this). But don't putin the match heads yet. Pierce a hole in the bottom of the canister (bigenough for strong string to fit through). Now, once you have made the 2 or3 match button (from the first mine explained) you will be pulling it fromthe bottom rather than stepping on the top.

Tie the string to the matches in the brimstone box and then bringthe string through the bottom of the canister, fill the canister with matchheads, and put on the lid. Once again, the more you tape, THE BETTER. You wantto hold this explosion as much as possible, so when it goes off it's morepowerful. Put a hole (for the string) in the blocked end of the piping. Youmight find it hard to the string through, but try and get it through a

small a hole as possible. You don't want anything coming out the back!A good idea is to, insert the string through the pipe, THEN do the

rest explained above. And drop the mine CAREFULLY down to the bottom of thepipe. Now walk around like you have a shotgun and whenever you want to blowsomething away, just point and pull the string. A spray of match heads,fire, plastic bits etc. will fly out, pretty impressive I guess.



_______________________________________________________________________________

Mortar _______________________________________________________________________________

Basically, that's exactly what this is. It shoots out projectilesthat explode on contact. Useful for small scale war.

Materials: 4 or 5 cans.

Strong tape (or a welder if you can get your hands on one)

Matches (MUST be "eddy lights" (the ones with the different coloured tip))

Squashball or dogball, as long as it's hollow (a tennis ball can be used, but you need cans wide enough to house it)

Ronson's lighter fluid

Will to blow something up.

Basically, this device is quite easily made, you just need some goodtools to do it properly. First, take one of the cans, and cut the entire topof of it (this might be hard with pop cans, since they have a high edge whichgets in the way of using a can opener). Then, on the bottom of the can, cutabout 3/4 of it out, so you have a semi-circle of tin missing on the bottom,like in this diagram:

______ /}*****\

/ }******\ * = amount of tin left on bottom [ }*******] of can. [ }*******] \ }******/ \}*****/ ~~~~~

Do exactly the same thing to all the rest of the cans as explainedabove (NOT the last one though), making sure that the open part in the bottomof each can alternates with the one below it. In other words, if you lookeddown the barrel of the thing, you'd see a semi-circle missing on the left,then the right (directly opposite) then the left etc. It must look this way.

When you get to your last can, leave the bottom on and still cut thewhole top off. Now you must tape/weld all these cans together (with the onewith the bottom on the bottom, naturally). This might be hard if youused pop-cans since the edges would be very rough (because you'd need toactually CUT off the top, not use a an opener). Anyway, now that's done.

Last, make a small hole in the side of the bottom can (as close as youcan get to the bottom). It just has to be big enough to squirt the Ronson'sinside. Next, you need to make "Roly Poly Match Heads". You must find a ballthat is hollow, and will fit as best as possible in the cans, so it doesn't



wobble too much, but doesn't have trouble coming out the end.

Make a small slice in the ball (not a hole), and start pouring in cutoff match heads (eddy lights, remember) until it's quite tightly packed. Putthis down the barrel of the mortar, tilt it upright at about a 45 degreeangle. Squirt some ronsons into the small hole at the bottom (and a bitaround the hole, in case it doesn't catch right away), light it, and BOOM.The ball should go VERY far if the cannon is made well, and it will explodewhen it lands to boot!



_______________________________________________________________________________

Simple Rocket Launcher _______________________________________________________________________________

Materials: ABS piping (at least 8 cm diameter, so the fins of the rocket can be fit inside, and it should be about 4 feet long). Also get a smaller piece of ABS piping about 1 foot long and 3 inches wide (home hardware will tell you what diameters the piping comes in exactly).

This one foot piece will need to be cut in halfwith a hack saw.

Switch (get it at Radio shack)

9 volt battery

Alligator clips (Radio shack of $#!^)

Small rocket (buy smallest size at Merry Landtoys at Bloor and Yonge)

3 "A" sized engines.

Solar flares (3 come with the engines, but it's good to get another pack of them)

Mine. This is if you want an explosion at theend.

Relatively easy (as I always say) to build. After you've cut thesmall piece of ABS in half. Tape the two "handles" to the bottom of the largerpiece of ABS (the launcher itself), one will act as the front handle, and the

other will have the "switch" on it.Tape them in places where it's comfortable to you. You will be holding

it most likely on your right shoulder, and your left arm will be outfront supporting you, and your right arm will be close into you, ready topull the switch, and the back end of the barrel will be resting on yourshoulder (don't worry, barely anything comes out the back, just a bit ofsmoke).

Next put the rocket together (you can read the instructionsyourself). *BUT*, since the rocket only supplies fins for the back end(because your supposed to be launching it up, not less than something like 70degrees (which is considered "ballistic")), you will have to make makeshift

fins for the from so the rocket is pointing straight ahead inside thelauncher, not the from end sagging down, and only the back end up.

The good part about getting he smallest rocket is, the transparentfilm canisters (once again, they are the better of the two types, so ask forthose), have sort of a circle that juts out on the lid, which fits EXACTLYinto the cardboard body of the rocket. So, voila, you can put a mine on thefront. It seems they make these things fit nicely just for us anarchistdoesn't it?



Anyway, once you have the rocket built, you should now hook up somelong wire to the switch you have, and have one end going to the battery, andfrom the other terminal on the battery to the rocket, and the other endof the switch to the rocket. Here's a diagram...

________________________

________________<-----__ < rocket inside II *II

^ * = switch front handle

Close up diagram:

+ -

_____________________] ] < put alligator clips [ _____________] on ends of these

&&&&&&&&&&&&&[&& H & ]&&&&&&&&&&&&&& wires (which should [ & A & ] be taped along the

on/off > \# & N & ] body of theswitch [ & D & ] launcher) and clamp

[ & L & ] them to the solar [_& E &_] flare, which is in the back of the engine.

& = ABS plastic

Obviously, if you have a mine, the "button" on the top of the mine willbe facing outwards, so when it lands, boom. The weight of the engineshould balance the weight of the bomb on the front. Well, there you haveit. Just point, and launch!



_______________________________________________________________________________

Chapter Fifteen: Complex Explosives _______________________________________________________________________________

This chapter deals with the instructions for creating somedangerous explosives. If you intend to make any of these explosives, do soin SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, as they are all dangerous and could seriously injureor kill you if done in larger amounts. If you don't know anything aboutchemistry, DON'T DO THESE EXPERIMENTS! I am not joking in giving thiswarning. Unless you have a death wish, you shouldn't try any of thefollowing unless you have had prior experience with chemicals.

I am not responsible for any injury or damage caused by people usingthis information. It is provided for use by people knowledgeable inchemistry who are interested in such experiments and can safely handle suchexperiments.



_______________________________________________________________________________

Part A: Common "weak" explosives _______________________________________________________________________________

A. Gunpowder: 75% Potassium Nitrate 15% Charcoal 10% Sulfur

The chemicals should be ground into a fine powder (separately!) witha mortar & pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercely, butif in a closed space it builds up pressure from the released gases and canexplode the container. Gunpowder works like this: the potassium nitrateoxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then burn fiercely. Carbondioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases released.

B. Ammonal: Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) withaluminum powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the %composition for Ammonal, so you may want to experiment a little using small

amounts.

C. Chemically ignited explosives:

1. A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar(sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of magnesium)when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it. What occurs isthis: when the acid is added it reacts with the potassium chlorate to formchlorine dioxide, which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well.

2. Using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works verywell for imitating volcanic eruptions. I have given it the name 'MPG

Vulcanite' tm). Here it is: potassium chlorate + potassium perchlorate +ammonium nitrate + ammonium dichromate + potassium nitrate + sugar + sulfur+ iron filings + charcoal + zinc dust + some coloring agent. (scarlet=strontium nitrate, purple= iodine crystals, yellow= sodium chloride,crimson= calcium chloride, etc...).

3. So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it.Mixture: ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust. When adrop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid whichreacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes theiodine (giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purplewhen mixed with iodine vapor). It also may ignite the hydrogen and beginburning.

Ammonium nitrate: 8 grams

Ammonium chloride: 1 gram Zinc dust: 8 grams Iodine crystals: 1 gram

4. Potassium permanganate + glycerin when mixed produces a purple-colored flame in 30 secs-1 min. Works best if the potassium permanganateis finely ground.



5. Calcium carbide + water releases acetylene gas (highly flammable gasused in blow torches...)



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Part B: Thermite reactions ______________________________________________________________________________

The Thermite reaction is used in welding, because it generates molteniron and temperatures of 3500 C (6000F+). It uses one of the previousreactions that I talked about to START it!

Starter=potassium chlorate + sugar Main pt.= iron (III) oxide + aluminum powder (325 mesh or finer)

Put the potassium chlorare + sugar around and on top of the main pt.To start the reaction, place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid on top ofthe starter mixture. STEP BACK! The ratios are: 3 parts iron(III) oxide to 1part aluminum powder to 1 part potassium chlorate to 1 part sugar.

When you first do it, try 3g:1g:1g:1g!

Also, there is an alternative starter for the Thermite reaction.The alternative is potassium permanganate + glycerin. Amounts: 55g iron(III)oxide, 15g aluminum powder, 25g potassium permanganate, 6ml glycerin.



_______________________________________________________________________________

Part C: Nitrogen-Containing High Explosives _______________________________________________________________________________

A. Mercury(II) Fulminate

To produce Mercury(II) Fulminate, a very sensitive shock explosive,one might assume that it could be formed by adding Fulminic acid to mercury.This is somewhat difficult since Fulminic acid is very unstable andcannot be purchased. I did some research and figured out a way to makeit without fulminic acid. You add 2 parts nitric acid to 2 parts alcoholto 1 part mercury. This is theoretical (I have not yet tried it) so please,if you try this, do it in very* small amounts and tell me the results.

B. Nitrogen Triiodide Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive explosive.Never store it and be careful when you're around it- sound, air movements,and other tiny things could set it off.

Materials-

2-3g Iodine 15ml conc. ammonia 8 sheets filter paper 50ml beaker feather mounted on a two meter pole ear plugs tape spatula stirring rod

Add 2-3g Iodine to 15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for 5minutes.

DO THE FOLLOWING WITHIN 5 MINUTES! Retain the solid, decant the liquid (pour off the liquid but keep thebrown solid...). Scrape the brown residue of Nitrogen Triiodide onto a stackof four sheets of filter paper. Divide solid into four parts, puttingeach on a separate sheet of dry filter paper. Tape in position, leave to dryundisturbed for AT LEAST 30 minutes (preferably longer). To detonate, touchwith feather. (WEAR EAR PLUGS WHEN DETONATING OR COVER EARS- IT IS VERYLOUD!)

C. Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton)

Commonly known as Smokeless powder, Nitrocellulose is exactly that-

it does not give off smoke when it burns.

Materials-

70ml concentrated sulfuric acid 30ml concentrated nitric acid 5g absorbent cotton 250ml 1M sodium bicarbonate 250ml beaker ice bath



tongs paper towels

Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30 mlnitric acid. Divide cotton into .7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece inthe acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive bathsof 500ml ater. Use fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml1M sodium bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until nobubbling occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels to dry overnight.

D. Nitroglycerin

Nitroglycerin is a *VERY* dangerous shock sensitive explosive. It isused in making dynamite, among other things. I am not sure as to theproportions and amounts of chemicals to be used, so I shall use estimates.

Materials-

70ml conc. sulfuric acid 30ml conc. nitric acid 10 ml glycerin ice bath 150ml beaker

Put the 150ml beaker in the ice bath and make sure that it is verycold. Slowly add the 70ml sulfuric and 30ml nitric acids to the beaker,trying to maintain a low temperature. When the temperature starts to leveloff, add about 10ml glycerin. If it turns brown or looks funny, **RUN LIKEHELL**. When Nitroglycerin turns brown, that means it's ready to explode...If it stays clear and all works well, keep the temperature as low as youcan and let it sit for a few hours. You then should have some Nitroglycerin,probably mixed with nitric and sulfuric acids. When you set it off, youmust not be nearby. Nitroglycerin can fill 10,000 times its original areawith expanding gases. This means that if you have 10ml's of Nitroglycerinin there, it will produce some 100,000ml's of gases.

To make it into dynamite, the Nitroglycerin must be absorbed intosomething like wood pulp or diamaeceous earth (spelled something like that).



_______________________________________________________________________________

Part D: Other stuff _______________________________________________________________________________

A. Peroxyacetone

Peroxyacetone is extremely flammable and has been reported to beshock sensitive.

Materials-

4ml Acetone 4ml 30% Hydrogen Peroxide 4 drops conc. hydrochloric acid 150mm test tube

Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solidshould begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in awater bath at 40 celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours.Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at

least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick andlight it (while staying at least a meter away).

B. Smoke smoke smoke...

The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Sincethis reaction is not all that dangerous you can use larger amounts ifnecessary for larger amounts of smoke.

6g zinc powder 1g sulfur powder

Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should

be created.



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Chapter Sixteen: Stars, Flares, and Color Mixtures _______________________________________________________________________________

This is serious stuff, and can be really dangerous if you don't treatit seriously. For you kids out there who watch too many cartoons, rememberthat if a part of your body gets blown away in the REAL world, it STAYS blownaway. If you can't treat this stuff with respect, don't screw around with it.

Each part will start with a set of safety rules. Don't skip over them.Read 'em and MEMORIZE 'em!! At the beginning, there will be a set of generalrules that always apply. Then there will be some things that you HAVE TO KNOWabout the materials you will be using and making this time. Read it thoroughlybefore starting anything.

Pyrotechnic preparations and explosives are, by their verynature, unstable, and subject to ignition by explosion or heat, shock, orfriction. A clear understanding of their dangerous properties and due care inthe handling of ingredients or finished products is necessary ifaccidents are to be avoided. Always observe all possible precautions,particularly the following:

1. Mix only small batches at one time. This means a few grams, or at most, an ounce or so. Don't go for big mixes -- they only make for bigger accidents. The power of an explosive cubes itself with every ounce. (9 Ounces is 729 times as powerful as one ounce.)

2. When weighing chemicals, use a clean piece of paper on the scale pan for each item. Then discard the used paper into a bucket of water before weighing the next ingredient.

3. Be a safe worker. Dispose of any chemicals spilled on the workbench or equipment between weighings. Don't keep open containers of chemicals on your table, since accidental spillage

or mixing may occur. When finished with a container, close it, and replace it on the storage shelf. Use only clean equipment.

4. Where chemicals are to be ground, grind them separately, NEVER TOGETHER. Thoroughly wash and clean equipment before grinding another ingredient.

5. Mixing of batches should be done outdoors, away from flammable structures, such as buildings, barns, garages, etc. Mixes should also be made in NON METALLIC containers to avoid sparks. Glass also should not be used since it will shatter in case of an accident. Handy small containers can be made by cutting off the top of a plastic bottle three or four inches from the bottom. Some

mixes may most conveniently be made by placing the ingredients in a plastic bottle and rolling around until the mixture is uniform. In all cases, point the open end of the container away from yourself. Never hold your body or face over the container. Any stirring should be done with a wooden paddle or stick to avoid sparks or static.

Powdered or ground materials may also be mixed by placing them on a large sheet of paper on a flat surface and then rolling them across the sheet by lifting the sides and corners one at a time.



6. Never ram or tamp mixes into paper or cardboard tubes. Pour the material in and gently tap or shake the tube to settle the contents down.

7. Store ingredients and finished mixes where they will not be a fire hazard away from heat and flame. Finished preparations may be stored in plastic bottles which will not shatter in case of an accident. Since many of the ingredients and mixes are poisonous, they should be stored out of reach of children or pets, preferably locked away.

8. Be sure threads of screw top containers and caps are thoroughly cleaned. This applies also to containers with stoppers of rubber or cork and to all other types of closures. Traces of mixture caught between the container and closure may be ignited by the friction of opening or closing the container. Throughout any procedure, WORK WITH CLEAN CONDITIONS.

9. ALWAYS WEAR A FACE SHIELD OR AT LEAST SHATTERPROOF SAFETY GLASSES. Any careful worker does when handling dangerous materials. Be sure lenses and frames are not flammable.

10. Always wear a dust respirator when handling chemicals in dust

form. These small particles gather in your lungs and stay there. They may cause serious illnesses later on in life.

11. Always wear gloves when working with chemicals.

12. Always wear a waterproof lab apron.

13. If you must work indoors, have a good ventilation system.

14. Never smoke anywhere near where you are working.

15. Make sure there are NO open flames present, and NO MOTORS (they produce sparks inside.) No hot water heaters, furnaces, or pilot

lights in stoves!! Sparks have been known to very readily explode dust floating in the air.

16. ALWAYS work with someone. Two heads are better than one.

17. Have a source of water READILY available. (Fire extinguisher, hose, etc.)

18. Never, under any circumstances, use any metal to load chemicals or put chemicals in. Fireworks with metal casings are worse to handle than a live hand grenade. Never use any metal container or can. This includes the very dangerous CO2 cartridges. Many people have

been KILLED because of flying fragments from metal casings. Again, please do not use metal in any circumstance.

19. Always be thoroughly familiar with the chemicals you are using. Some information will be included in each bit, but look for whatever extra information you can. Materials that were once thought to be safe can later be found out to be dangerous stuff.

20. Wash your hands and face thoroughly after using chemicals. Don't forget to wash your EARS AND YOUR NOSE.



21. If any device you've built fails to work, leave it alone. After a half hour or so, you may try to bury it, but never try to unload or reuse any dud.

22. If dust particles start to form in the air, stop what you are doing and leave until it settles.

23. Read the entire file before trying to do anything.

24. NEVER strike any mixture containing Chlorates, Nitrates, Perchlorates, Permanganates, Bichromates, or powdered metals don't drop them, or even handle them roughly.

These rules may all look like a lot of silly nonsense, but let's lookat one example. When the move "The Wizard of OZ" was made, the actress whoplayed the good witch was severely burned when one of the exploding specialeffects got out of hand. The actress who played the bad witch got reallymessed up by the green coloring used on her face, and the original actor whoplayed the Tin Man got his lungs destroyed by the aluminum dust used tocolor his face.

The actor we know of as the tin man was actually a replacement. Thepoint is, these chemicals were being used under the direction of people a

lot more knowledgeable of chemicals than you are, and terrible accidentsstill happened. Don't take this stuff lightly.

We will be using the following materials this time. Get familiar withthem. Some can be highly dangerous.

Aluminum Dust (and powder) Al

An element used for brilliancy in the fine powder form. It can be purchasedas a fine silvery or gray powder. All grades from technical to superpure(99.9%) can be used. It is dangerous to inhale the dust. The dust is alsoflammable, by itself. In coarser forms, like powder, it is less dangerous.

Antimony Sulfide Sb S 2 3

Also known as "Black" Antimony Sulfide. (There is also a "Red" form, whichis useless to us.) This is used to sharpen the report of firecrackers,salutes, etc., or to add color to a fire. The technical, black, powder issuitable. Avoid contact with the skin. Dermatitis or worse will be the result.

Barium Chlorate Ba(ClO ) * H O3 2 2

Available as a white powder. It is poisonous, as are all Barium salts. Itis used both as an oxidizer and color imparter. It is as powerful asPotassium Chlorate and should be handled with the same care. Meltingpoint is 414 degrees.

Barium Nitrate Ba(NO ) 3 2



Poisonous. Used as an oxidizer and colorizer. The uses and precautions arethe same as with a mixture containing Potassium Nitrate.

Charcoal C

A form of the element carbon. Used in fireworks and explosives as areducing agent. It can be purchased as a dust on up to a coarse powder. Usedust form, unless otherwise specified. The softwood variety is best, andit should be black, not brown.

Copper Acetoarsenite (CuO) As O Cu(C H O ) 3 2 3 2 3 2 2

The popular name for this is Paris Green. It is also called King's Greenor Vienna Green. It has been used as an insecticide, and is availableas a technical grade, poisonous, emerald green powder. It is used infireworks to add color. Careful with this stuff. It contains arsenic.

Copper Chloride CuCl 2

A color imparter. As with all copper salts, this is poisonous.

Copper Sulfate CuSO *5H O 4 2

Known as Blue Vitriol, this poisonous compound is available as blue crystalsor blue powder. Can be purchased in some drugstores and some agriculturalsupply stores. Used as a colorizer.

Dextrin

This can be purchased as a white or yellow powder. It is a good cheap gluefor binding cases and stars in fireworks.

Lampblack C

This is another form of the element carbon. It is a very finely powderedblack dust (soot, actually) resulting from the burning of crude oils. It isused for special effects in fireworks.

Lead Chloride PbCl 3

Available as a white, crystalline, poisonous powder, which melts at501 degrees. As with all lead salts, it is not only poisonous, but thepoison accumulates in the body, so a lot of small, otherwise harmless dosescan be as bad as one large dose.

Mercurous Chloride HgCl

Also known as calomel or Mercury Monochloride. This powder will brighten an



otherwise dull colored mixture. Sometimes it is replaced byHexachlorobenzene for the same purpose. This is non poisonous ONLY if it is100% pure. Never confuse this chemical with Mercuric Chloride, which ispoisonous in any purity.

Potassium Chlorate KClO3

This, perhaps, is the most widely used chemical in fireworks. Before itwas known, mixtures were never spectacular in performance. It opened thedoor to what fireworks are today. It is a poisonous, white powder that isused as an oxidizer. Never ram or strike a mixture containing PotassiumChlorate. Do not store mixtures containing this chemical for any length oftime, as they may explode spontaneously.

Potassium Dichromate K Cr O2 2 7

Also known as Potassium Bichromate. The commercial grade is used infireworks and matches. The bright orange crystals are poisonous.

Potassium Nitrate KNO 3

Commonly called Saltpeter. This chemical is an oxidizer which decomposes at400 degrees. It is well known as a component of gunpowder and is also used inother firework pieces. Available as a white powder.

Potassium Perchlorate KClO 4

Much more stable than its chlorate brother, this chemical is a whiteor slightly pink powder. It can often substitute for Potassium Chlorate to

make the mixture safer. It will not yield its oxygen as easily, but to makeup for this, it gives off more oxygen. It is also poisonous.

Red Gum

Rosin similar to shellac and can often replace it in many fireworksformulas. Red Gum is obtained from barks of trees.

Shellac Powder

An organic rosin made from the secretions of insects which live in India.

The exact effect it produces in fireworks is not obtainable from other gums.The common mixture of shellac and alcohol sold in hardware storesshould be avoided. Purchase the powdered variety, which is orange in color.

Sodium Oxalate Na C O 2 2 4

Used in making yellow fires. Available as a fine dust, which you shouldavoid breathing.



Strontium Carbonate SrCO 3

Known in the natural state as Strontianite, this chemical is used for addinga red color to fires. It comes as a white powder, in a pure, technical,or natural state.

Strontium Nitrate Sr(NO ) 3 2

By far the most common chemical used to produce red in flares, stars andfires. Available in the technical grade as a white powder. It does doubleduty as an oxidizer, but has a disadvantage in that it will absorb somewater from the air.

Strontium Sulfate SrSO4

Since this chemical does not absorb water as readily as the nitrate, itis often used when the powder is to be stored. In its natural state it isknown as Celestine, which is comparable to the technical grade used infireworks.

Sulfur S

A yellow element that acts as a reducing agent. It burns at 250 degrees,giving off choking fumes. Purchase the yellow, finely powdered form only.Other forms are useless without a lot of extra and otherwise unnecessaryeffort to powder it.

Zinc Dust Zn

Of all the forms of zinc available, only the dust form is in any waysuitable. As a dust, it has the fineness of flour. Should be either of thetechnical or high purity grade. Avoid breathing the dust, which can causelung damage. Used in certain star mixtures, and with sulfur, as a rocketfuel.



_______________________________________________________________________________

Chapter Seventeen: The Chemistry of Pyrotechnics _______________________________________________________________________________

Most pyrotechnic mixtures follow a very simple set of chemical rules.We'll go over those now. Most mixtures contain an oxidizing agent, whichusually produces oxygen used to burn the mixture, and a reducing agent, whichburns to produce hot gasses. In addition, there can be coloring agents toimpart a color to the fire, binders, which hold the mixture in a solid lump,and regulators that speed up or slow down the speed at which the mixtureburns. These are not all the possibilities, but they cover most all cases.

Oxidizing agents, such as nitrates, chlorates, and perchlorates providethe oxygen. They usually consist of a metal ion and the actual oxidizingradical. For example, Potassium Nitrate contains a metal ion (Potassium)and the oxidizing radical (the Nitrate). Instead of potassium, wecould instead substitute other metals, like sodium, barium, or strontium,and the chemical would still supply oxygen to the burning mixture. But someare less desirable. Sodium Nitrate, for example, will absorb moisture out ofthe air, and this will make it harder to control the speed at which themixture will burn.

In the following examples, we'll use the letter "X" to show the presenceof a generic metal ion.

Note that Nitrates are stingy with the oxygen that they give up. Theyonly give one third of what they have.

Some Some Nitrate Nitrite Oxygen

2XNO ---> 2XN0 + O 3 2 2

Chlorates are very generous, on the other hand. They give up all theoxygen they have. Furthermore, they give it up more easily. It takes lessheat, or less shock to get that oxygen loose. Mixtures using chloratesburn more spectacularly, because a smaller volume of the mix needs to bewasted on the oxidizer, and the ease with which the oxygen is supplied makesit burn faster. But the mixture is also MUCH more sensitive to shock.

Some Some Chlorate Chloride Oxygen

2XClO ---> 2XCl + 3O 3 2

Perchlorates round out our usual set of oxidizing tools. Perchloratescontain even more oxygen than Chlorates, and also give it all up. However,they are not as sensitive as the Chlorates, so they make mixtures that are"safer". That is, they're less likely to explode if you drop or strike them.

Some Some Perchlorate Chloride Oxygen



XClO ---> XCl + 2O 4 2

Reducing agents, like sulfur and charcoal (carbon) simply burn theoxygen to produce sulfur dioxide and carbon dioxide. It's usually best toinclude a mixture of the two in a pyrotechnic mixture, as they burn atdifferent speeds and temperatures, and the proper combination will helpcontrol the speed of combustion.

Also, when extra fast burning speed is needed, like in rocketsand firecrackers, metal powder is often added. The finer the powder, thefaster the burning rate. The proportions change the speed, as well.Magnesium powder or dust is often used for speed. Aluminum dust works, butnot as well. Zinc dust is used in some cases. Powdered metal, (not dust)particularly aluminum or iron, are often used to produce a mixture thatshoots out sparks as it burns. In rare cases, it is desirable to slow downthe burning speed. In this case, corn meal is often used. It burns, so actsas a reducing agent, but it doesn't burn very well.

Coloring agents are very interesting. It's long been known thatvarious metals produce different colored flames when burned in a fire. Thereasons are buried in the realm of quantum physics, but the results are whatmatters, and we can present them here. Note that if we use an oxidizing agent

that contains a colorizing metal, it can do a double job. It can produceoxygen and color.

Barium -Barium salts give a pleasant green color. Barium Nitrate is most often used.

Strontium -Strontium salts give a strong red color. Strontium Nitrate is a very convenient material for red.

Sodium -Sodium salts give an intense yellow color. So intense in fact that any sodium compounds in a mixture will usually wash out other colorizers. As has been said, Sodium Nitrate absorbs moisture from the air, and so is not really suitable to impart color. Instead,

Sodium Oxalate is usually used. This does not absorb lots ofwater, but has the disadvantage of being very poisonous.

Copper -Copper salts are used to give a blue color. Blue is the mostdifficult color to produce, and it's usually not too spectacular.

Usually Copper Acetoarsenite (Paris Green) is used. This compound contains arsenic, and is very poisonous. Since it still doesn't produce a very memorable blue, it's often used with mercurous chloride, which enhances the color, but is also poisonous, and expensive, to boot.

Potassium -Potassium salts will give a delicate purple color, if they're very pure. The cheaper lab grades of potassium nitrate often contain traces of sodium, which completely obscure the purple color. In

order to get the purple coloring, very pure grades must be used, and you must be very careful to mix it in very clean vessels, and scoop it from the supply jar with a very clean scoop. The color is certainly worth the effort, if you can get it.

Some mixtures that burn in colors also contain binders, that holdthe mixture together in a solid lump. These lumps are usually referred to asstars. The balls fired from a roman candle or the colorful showers sprayedfrom aerial bombs are examples of stars. Depending on the mixture, the binder



is either a starch called dextrin or finely powdered orange shellac. Ashellac-like material called red gum is also used on occasion. In somemixtures, the shellac powder also helps produce a nice color. Shellacmixtures are moistened with alcohol to get them to stick together. Dextrinmixtures are moistened with water.

If the colored mixture is to be used as a flare, it's just packed into athin paper tube. If it's to be fired from a roman candle, it's usuallyextruded from a heavy tube by pushing it out with a dowel, and the pieces arecut off as the proper length pops out. Stars fired from an aerial bomb areusually made by rolling the moist mixture flat, and cutting it with aknife into small cubes. Stars that are extruded are often called "pumpedstars" those that are rolled out are "cut stars".

The following are formulas for mixtures that burn with various colors.Parts are by weight.

Red

Potassium Chlorate 9Sulfur 2Lampblack 1Strontium Nitrate 9bind with shellac

dissolved in alcohol

Blue

Potassium Chlorate 9 This one is inferiorCopper Acetoarsenite 2 Potassium Chlorate 12Mercurous Chloride 1 Copper Sulfate 6Sulfur 2 Lead Chloride 1bind with dextrin Sulfur 4in water bind with dextrin in water

GreenBarium Chlorate 8 Barium Nitrate 3Lampblack 1 Potassium Chlorate 4Shellac Powder 1 Shellac Powder 1bind with alcohol Dextrin 1/4

Bind with alcohol

Yellow

Potassium Chlorate 8 Potassium Chlorate 8Sodium Oxalate 3 Sodium Oxalate 4Lampblack 2 Shellac Powder 2

Bind with shellac in Dextrin 1alcohol or dextrin Bind with alcoholin water

White

Potassium Nitrate 6Sulfur 1Antimony Sulfide 2



bind with dextrin inwater

Orange

Strontium Nitrate 36Sodium Oxalate 8Potassium Chlorate 5Shellac Powder 5Sulfur 3Bind with alcohol

Purple (ingredients must be very pure)

Potassium Chlorate 36 This one has more of a lilac colorStrontium Sulfate 10 Potassium Chlorate 38Copper Sulfate 5 Strontium Carbonate 18Lead Chloride 2 Copper Chloride 4Charcoal 2 Lead Chloride 2Sulfur 12 Sulfur 14Bind with dextrin in Bind with dextrin in waterwater

Brilliant White

Potassium Perchlorate 12Aluminum Dust 4Dextrin 1Bind with water

Golden Twinkler Stars - Falls through the air and burns in an on andoff manner. The effect is spectacular. A pumped or cut star.

Potassium Nitrate 18Sulfur 3Lampblack 3Aluminum Powder 3Antimony Sulfide 3Sodium Oxalate 4Dextrin 2Bind with water

Zinc Spreader Stars - Shoot out pieces of burning zinc and charcoal.These stars are much heavier than usual, and require larger charges if they'reto be fired from a tube.

Zinc Dust 72Potassium Chlorate 15Potassium Dichromate 12Granular Charcoal 12Dextrin 2bind with water

Electric Stars - Stars that contain aluminum powder



Potassium Nitrate 15 Potassium Chlorate 60Aluminum, fine 2 Barium Nitrate 5Aluminum, medium 1 Aluminum, fine 9Black Powder 2 Aluminum, medium 4Antimony Sulfide 3 Aluminum, coarse 3Sulfur 4 Charcoal 2bind with dextrin in Dextrin 5water bind with red gum in

water

Potassium Perchlorate 6Barium Nitrate 1 Potassium Perchlorate 4Aluminum 20 Aluminum, medium 2Dextrin 1 Dextrin 1bind with shellac in bind with shellac in alcoholalcohol

Simpler Zinc Spreaders

Potassium Nitrate 14 Potassium Chlorate 5Zinc Dust 40 Potassium Dichromate 4Charcoal 7 Charcoal, medium 4Sulfur 4 Zinc Dust 24

bind with dextrin in bind with dextrin in waterwater

Willow Tree Stars - Use large amounts of lampblack -- too much to burnfully. Gives a willow tree effect.

Potassium Chlorate 10Potassium Nitrate 5Sulfur 1Lampblack 18bind with dextrin in water

As always, don't forget that it's just plain stupid to go buying allthese materials from one chemical supply house. When you buy it all as agroup, they know what you plan to do with it, and they keep records. Ifanyone goes investigating the source of homemade fireworks and checks withyour supplier, there will be a lead straight to you. Be sure to cover yourtracks.



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Notes: _______________________________________________________________________________

Look for the next in the series:Phone Phreaking

and Electronic Devices



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Notes: _______________________________________________________________________________

Anarchist's Home Companion (CookBook)

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Transcript of Anarchist's Home Companion (CookBook)