Analysis of perfumes and deodorants

Analytical TechniquesFor

Evaluation OfPerfumes,

Deodorants AndAnti-Perspirants

Vikhyati Patel15MCT111

QACT SEMESTER II

C.E.

Content• Perfumes Extraction Process Fragrance notes Types of perfumes Types of fragrance ingredients Techniques Stages of analysing perfumes Evaluation of perfumes

• Deodorants V/S Anti-Perspirants General Composition Mechanism of action Evaluation of anti-Perspirants and Deodorants

Perfumes• Perfume is a mixture of essential oils or aroma

compounds, fixatives and solvents - used to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces "a pleasant scent".

• Types of perfumery ingredients:I. Odorants: they give typical odour: 1)Concretes

2)Absolutes 3)Tinctures

4)ResinoidII. FixativesIII. Extenders

• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume• http://www.perfumerbook.com/Perfume%20Bases%20&%20Fragrance%20Ingredients.pdf

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https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Perfume

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Fragrance notes• Notes in perfumery are descriptors of scents that can be

sensed upon the application of a perfume.

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• https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Note_(perfumery)• http://www.fragrancecellar.com/the-fragrance-vocabulary/

Types of perfumes

Natural perfumes

Synthetic perfumes4

• “Analysis of Cosmetic Products”; A. Salvador, A. Chisvert; Elsevier Publishers; First Edition 2007; Page: 243


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TYPES OF FRAGRANCE INGREDIENTS Five carbon isoprene unit: Terpene

“Analysis of Cosmetic Products”; A. Salvador, A. Chisvert; Elsevier Publishers; First Edition 2007; Page: 243

• Monoterpene hydrocarbons

(e.g.: limonene)

• Sesquiterpene hydrocarbons

(e.g.: α-farnesene)• Alcohols (e.g.: cis-3-hexenol)

• Monoterpene alcohols (e.g.: linalool)

• Phenols (e.g.: eugenol)

• Sesquiterpene alcohols (e.g.: farnesol)

• Aldehydes (e.g.: 2,6-nonadienal)

• Terpene aldehyde (e.g.: citral)

• Terpene ketones (e.g.: β-ionone)

• Ketones (e.g.: cyclohexanones)

• Lactones (e.g.: γ-undecalactone)

• Esters (e.g.: methyl salicylate)

• Terpene esters (e.g.: linayl acetate)

• Oxides (e.g.: eucalyptol)

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TechniquesAlthough there is no single "correct" technique for the formulation of a perfume, there are general guidelines as to how a perfume can be constructed from a concept.Many perfumes include colorants and anti-oxidants to improve the marketability and shelf life of the perfume, respectively.Basic framework:Perfume oils usually contain tens to hundreds of ingredients and these are typically organized in a perfume for the specific role they will play. These ingredients can be roughly grouped into four groups:Primary scents (Heart) : Can consist of one or a few main ingredients for a certain concept, such as "rose". Alternatively, multiple ingredients can be used together to create an "abstract" primary scent that does not bear a resemblance to a natural ingredient. - For instance, jasmine and rose scents are commonly blends for abstract floral fragrances. Cola flavourant is a good example of an abstract primary scent.

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Burr, Chandler (2003). The Emperor of Scent: A Story of Perfume, Obsession, and the Last Mystery of the Senses. New York: Random House.

9 Modifiers: These ingredients alter the primary scent to give the perfume a certain desired character.- For instance, fruit esters may be included in a floral primary to create a fruity floral.Calone and citrus scents can be added to create a "fresher" floral. The cherry scent in cherry cola can be considered a modifier.

Blenders: A large group of ingredients that smooth out the transitions of a perfume between different "layers" or bases. These themselves can be used as a major component of the primary scent. - Common blending ingredients include linalool

and hydroxycitronellal.

Fixatives: Used to support the primary scent by bolstering it. Many resins, wood scents, and amber bases are used as fixatives.


Why to analyse the perfume?

• Whether the perfume manufacturer fulfils the desired quality such as ratio of fragrance ingredients, absence/presence of undesired compound- Quality Control

• To quantify the fragrance ingredients, since they will be incorporated in the cosmetic products later.

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Stages of analysing Perfumes1.Sensorial Evaluation: smell, viscosity, colour and

clarity of the oil are assessed.2.Odour/Smell test: which helps to determine if an oil

is really what it is claimed to be, since certain adulterants can be identified by this test.

3.Physical Test: specific gravity, optical rotation and refractive index are determined.

4.GC-MS evaluation.

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https://www.perkinelmer.com/lab-solutions//resources/docs/APP_011482_01_CharacterizationofPerfumeFragrances.pdf

Olfactory Characterization• The “noses” of trained person are useful for checking the notes of

the perfume.• Electronic Nose zNose® invented by Electronic Sensor Technology, Southern California is known for separation and quantification of the individual chemicals with an odour in few seconds.

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• Use of spectroscopic analytical techniques, like UV/VIS, IR, Nuclear Magnetic Resonance (NMR), provide the valuable information about the quality.

• Chromatographic Techniques such as Gas Chromatography (GC) by both Injection or Headspace (HS) are most widely used techniques in perfume industries.

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• For further classification: Flame ionization detector(FID) and Thermal conductivity detector (TCD), establish Korats index (KI) for each compound , which represent a relative measurement of retention time with respect to a group of known hydrocarbons.

• MS detectors provide greater sensitivity and higher selectivity than the above one.

• LC and TLC can be applied to determine low volatile or thermolabile fragrance chemicals.

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http://www.compoundchem.com/2015/09/21/deodorants-antiperspirants/

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http://www.shutterstock.com/pic-174211835/stock-vector-armpit-sweat-armpit-sweating-beauty-female-armpit-sweat-eccrine-sweat-glands-apocrine-sweat.html

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http://ochemdaily.blogspot.in/

General Composition 23


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http://www.sweathelp.org/hyperhidrosis-treatments/antiperspirants/antiperspirant-basics.html

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http://link.springer.com/chapter/10.1007%2F978-3-642-59869-2_8#page-1

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http://www.slideshare.net/parth241989/analysis-of-cosmetic

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http://image.slidesharecdn.com/analysisofcosmetic-130121025614-phpapp01/95/analysis-of-cosmetic-36-638.jpg?cb=1358737090

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http://www.slideshare.net/parth241989/analysis-of-cosmetic

Specific Tests35

Analysis of perfumes and deodorants

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