An Adventure Around Australia In A Ute

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Suzanne T hompson

N

D V E N T U R E

R O U N D

U S T R L I

I N

U T E


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The Author lives a simple life in a small town, in Queensland Australia. She counts her life asone of being blessed by good fortune and health and optimism and has had the opportunity toshare some experiences. She has a love of all things from the natural world, includinggeological formations and history and the understanding of gratitude and how each day is agift.


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Dedicated to Mary


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Copyright Suzanne Thompson

The right of Suzanne Thompson to be identified as author of this work has been asserted by her in accordancewith section 77 and 78 of the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in

any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the priorpermission of the publishers.

Any person who commits any unauthorized act in relation to this publication may be liable to criminalprosecution and civil claims for damages.

A CIP catalogue record for this title is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978 184963 621 6

www.austinmacauley.com

First Published (2014)

Austin Macauley Publishers Ltd.25 Canada SquareCanary WharfLondonE14 5LB


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Acknowledgments

Acknowledgments to Gary, my children, Emma and Natasha, and all the kind people who helped uscomplete the journey.


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Walking the beach along Crowdy Bay a most beautiful feel of crushed pipi shells beneath my feet,along with the order and the unconformed patterns left in the sand, by the wind in the pools as I pass them

by, like the scales of a snake or feathers of a bird; such order yet imperfection at the same time.

Not a sign of pollution anywhere, all I see are the tyre tracks, which I feel is an intrusion into this place ofperfections and rare beauty.

An ancient headland uplifted by the forces of volcanic eruptions over 20 million years ago alongside bedsof smooth lava and assorted colours of clays and different textured rocks.Like a kid in a lolly shop is how I feel when I come upon such wonders.

These deteriorated coastal headlands, each one so different in its geological formation along this exteriorcoastal edge of N. S. W. which we travel and then onto explore the rest of the coastal continent.

Camped in this national park. Within a short stroll, protected by sand dunes lies a beach which was onceused for sandmining. Mined for its rutile, and what a strange irony to think that from a place so pure andbeautiful its gifts are transformed into titanium and used to make missiles and spacecraft, as were manyraw sand materials such as this, along with the sand beaches of Rainbow near Fraser Island in Queenslandbefore Gough Whitlam put an end to it in 1978. And so for now these sands now rest in peace and quiet.

This journey we have embarked on is an exciting one perhaps because its all new , each day a newunfolding experience. Yet I find every new destination in which we set up our camp for a few days seemsmore amazing than the previous location.

It was going to be an adventure plus a challenge, this year long trip in our U Bute camper that sits onthe tray of our Hi Lux Ute.

This is our turtle home, and with all its storage, it amazes me and others how all that house folds upand sits on top, about 8" higher than the metal storage which carries all our gear, like topping on a cake.

When all is set up its quite spacious and homely with the hall runners, dining room, queen bed and 2 metrex 3 metre spare room space.


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After a brief visit to the Gold Coast and Ballina visiting relatives we found our first camp which was ata very windswept Redcliff camp ground near Brooms Head N. S. W. Geologically fascinating with rockstrata exposing ancient bedding rocks dating back from when this headland was still connected withGondwana; coal layers, mudstones, sandstones, ironstone, basalt, slate any many more. Perched high onthe hill surrounded by wallabies, views of the many migrating whales close to shore, gazing out to the vastblue Pacific Ocean. A track to ride our push bikes, a tea tree lake behind us, with an added visit from adear old friend Kay who just happened to be passing by with a sticky bun who dropped in for a cuppa; seenour first snake by the bins.

We later unslid the wagon and left it standing on its free standing strong metal legs and drove around ableak and grey, rainy Yamba town, and fitted in a wash load and also a recharge of the computer at aLaundromat. Showers at night, a freezing cold and windy experience although the fire kept me warmafterwards. We were very happy and excited at this new life that awaited us.


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Red Rock Camp site

Next destination was Gibraltar Range National Park,such a vast difference in temperature. Picked upsupplies in Grafton, a town much more tidied up since my last visit, steeped in Australian history andshady trees.

The Gwydir Highway wound uphill past rolling green pastures, temperate plants of different shapesand colours, different from what I am used to in Queensland. . Through the lovely town of Bellingen,

Second camp was a bit more closed in with limited sites, but a roof over the wood pile which weplaced ourselves opposite proved invaluable.

An old slab cabin built by a man called Mulligan who once had grand ideas and dreams of building ahydro electricity station there and damming the river. Although his original cabin was burnt down andrebuilt it still retained a small amount of past gone nostalgia and energy, I could imagine it still while

standing beside the stone fireplace. We enjoyed nice long walks and studied the plants, delicate natives Ihad never seen before, yet so hardy in such a harsh temperature variation, tea trees with colours of yellow,pink, purple, blue. Star flowers, white, orange, mauve, out along the escarpment which stood high over adistant stretching valley, and mountains which went on for miles and miles.

Breathtaking scenery, where deep green valleys of ancient rainforest has stood nestled by the walls,either side sheltered from extremes of fires and loggers, and weathering a cold and harsh environment as Istood and gazed upon this wonder in October 2011. One of our most coldest bases in the dismal rain withticks latching on, but oh the hot shower was magnificent. Met one of the many lovely fellow campers inthe site next door where we shared tales.


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Such a good feeling to move on as it always is, a new adventure, A trip to Glen Innes for supplies to awonderful old charming supermarket in the original old wooden store, surrounded by leadlight windowfeatures as many of Australian buildings once proudly displayed on the shopfront windows. Best lunch at apub of lamb chops served with fresh peas and beans- then on to Man River reserve located on the oldGrafton to Glen Innes road once used by strong horses, men and bullocks to transport from the coast, wool,timber and whatever else was required to build a township at the top of the mountain 1,500 metres abovesea level. These beautiful green pastures nestled by a clear rushing river amidst giant granite boulders leftby an ice age long ago; the crystal clear river which I later discovered from a friend in Armidale presently

has a controversy attached concerning the mining of antimony. I found an interesting stone while siftingthrough its sands when sitting in its freezing waters; a quartz chunk laced with peridot. We saw a platypus,


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plus a strange little critter between a koala, a possum and a fox which would come past our camp eachnight to check us out.

Suzie writing her memoirs where the platypus lived nearby

A day trip into Washpool World Heritage National Park was a delight, quite a good hike, about 8 km,

though the weather was good. Very ancient gums and rainforest mosses and lichens; in all the 2,600different shades of green that apparently exist I believe. Ticks latched onto both Gary and myself while westopped and ate our picnic lunch at the waterfall, luckily Gary got the one from my neck out whole,although it still caused discomfort for weeks. The one in the back of Garys knee gave him a lot of painand stress with his leg swelling for days. ,

Through the winding narrow road we made our way to Dalmorton, an old gold mining town; not muchthere these days. Through an old tunnel carved out of the rock by convicts; still a few of the old farmersaround with their old houses fading through the times of history. Came out at Nymboida Hotel, where wehad lunch. Owned by Russell Crowe who had preserved its history of when it was once a Cobb and Cocoach stop. Great little museum full of all the memorabilia of his exciting life.


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The wonders of the rainforest


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Returning to the coast and the town of Minnie Waters, which held fond memories of years gone bywhen we were young and kids were small, still doing the same things as we are doing now really, a simpleand happy life; treasured days in the sands of time gone by, never to return Not much had changed in thetwenty-five years since we last camped there, a few improvements on amenities and camp sites. We made

camp on a beachfront site to gaze upon the rolling waves and view the many whales, one of which came inso close Gary believed it to be a log floating until it moved, basking in the warm clean shallow waters, safefrom the Japanese whale hunters.

The small hamlet of Woolihad grown a little, houses well maintained and waters still clean and clear. Iwas glad to see it was not too developed in its serene sleepiness and hope that it remains that way. Had anasty cut on an oyster shell while removing them from the rocks.

Sawtell, a little town just a little further down the road was our next stop. A caravan park with lovelyhot showers and washing machines and a powered site, I was very grateful to get back to a littlecivilization once again. , Such a picturesque spot with its lighthouse on the hill; a great area to watch thepassing whales, also a short walk to a township with a few little upmarket cafes and shops. The SawtellCinema is a treasure owned by the same family for its entire life. Around the 1930s I think it began. Burntdown once years ago and then rebuilt in art deco style and so charming. It was there I watched two movies,

one being Jayne Eyre, with a dear friend Mary, and also Red Dog with a dear husband Gary, a moviewhich all dog lovers will enjoy Im sure.

Moonrise


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Python

Sunrise

Heading up through the beautiful Bellingen Valley,one of my favourite areas in N. S. W,. consistingof a township which has retained an element of its original style and buildings; a very expensive place tolive these days. On towards Dorrigo and then to Armidale, calling into another little township namedHillsborough, which did and still mines gold. Arriving at my dear friends house where we proceeded toventure out to a back yard barbie with fresh caught fish and good company and two people who were partof my six degree of separation world once again.

After our pleasant visit to friend Kays - we go back a long time - we then headed out to a place called

Styx River camp area, which borders on the New England National Park, also a World Heritage site.Located just outside the small hamlet of a town called Ebor which was once had a very different terrainbeing in the form of a huge shield volcano 20 million years back; its eruption was similar to the force ofthe one Pompeii delivered, although not as populated in these parts.

Ebor has a charming little coffee shop with very friendly owners. Our first night camping was one ofthe coldest nights I can remember. When we arrived we had only two other campers at first then within afew hours it was a school camp with a large group of boys and teachers all over the place for three days.We had a great spot right by the river. After my nightly shower I rugged up in flannelette pyjamas anddressing gown which I purchased in Dorrigo op-shop, and had to keep rotating from back to front of fire tokeep warm The following afternoon we rode our pushbikes up to the other campsite, past the friendly cowsand bull near the entrance to The New England National Park.

The following day we rode our bikes up again and parked them behind a small rental forestry hut forwhich they charge sixty dollars per night and took a track up behind it into the National Park LyrebirdTrail, a truly spectacular experience. Ran into a couple along the way who were from Gympie - another sixdegree moment;. strangely Gympie people seem to turn up in many places I have travelled. This walk wasthrough very ancient primordial beech tree forests and stunning sheer cliff walls, covered with moss andlichens, the air felt so pure and fresh. With every new step I hauled my weary body through being everconscious of falling debris from the surrounding mighty walls and gazed out over the eaglesnest look outat a view of the seemingly unending Great Dividing Range, Australias inland back bone-. complete witheagle.


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Rainforest Beauties

Moving on along the old Kempsey Rd, which was one of the routes of the long hauls from coast tomountains, we came across a scenic patch of ground at a place called Georges Junction. We set up camp inan old river bed on high ground, way above the present flowing watercourse, debris was hanging high inthe trees all around, evidence of past torrential rains and flood waters. A huge storm came in one night and

scared the shit out of me, the noise reverberated all around the surrounding mountains which cradled us intheir crevices. Lightning and heavy rain continued to pummel the canvas all night long. I had my headburied into Garysside under the blankets and could still see the flashes of lightning, the air was alive withenergy. So glad the riverbeds we were camped in were just down from where two forks meet into one andthe river did not rise overnight and carry us away. , Stayed for another couple of days; poured all day andnight. Loved watching the soft white clouds hanging in the creases and folds of the dense green forestedmountains while all around us we could hear the distant slide of rocks and landslides giving way,continuing to be weathered as they have all throughout time. This area felt very isolated. We walked up thecreeks, passed a red bellied snake about arms distance from me, popping out of one of the ledges. I wasnot afraid, I felt more privileged to be part of this beautiful isolated piece of paradise with its unique birdlife, sounds and colours.


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In my element walking up a wild creek

Moved on out, lucky no trouble getting up and out of the washed away road which we drove in on toget there, passing large chunks of rock along the road. The only other vehicles we came across muchfurther along were a couple of road working machines doing repair to the damaged road and clearingdebris. Not too many people use this road any more as I think it could be quite dangerous, with weatheringwalls on one side, and a sheer ledge dropping off the other side, wearing away with each new storm; butfantastic scenery. From Armidale to Bellthorpe we only passed the two work trucks till we reachedBellthorpe, a quaint little town I would have liked to stop at. Instead it was lunch in the Kempsey cafe withall its charm.


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Gary collecting wood for the fire at Georges Junction

Holding a rock up

I am not sure if you believe in orbs or not but strangely if you look really close into this one thatappeared on my photo you can see a face of an old cowboy with his hat like an old bushy Slim Dusty

lookalike, a well known Australian singer. This fire kept us warm and dried out our clothes.There was one incident while camping at this spot, when I woke to a large cow eating my shirt which Ihad soaking in a bucket. She was enjoying it as the soap suds frothed at her mouth, she did not want to letgo of it either though I did get it back.


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Coming down the pass from Georges Junction through partly hand cut rock

Our next stop was the beautiful township of South West Rocks a coastal N. S. W. town; along the waywe drove through townships of Gladstone and looked at Smithton and Hat Head,

We pulled into a bit of luxury, well, my standard of it anyway, which means a laundry and cleanshower block. It was one of those four star big four parks which are usually well kept. It was on the way toTrial Bay jail, an old remnant of an early prisoner detention centre while the Second World War was inprogress. They helped build a sea wall of which only a small section now remains We rode our bikes intotown, swam in the very chilly ocean, watched whales swimming past and enjoyed what it had to offer. Ofcourse I found a house that I wanted to buy and live in as I do in many places we visit, it was a pushbikeride to the waterfront & shop, for $27900. A block of land a few houses away was selling for $38000, oneI must go back to one of these days.

All freshened up and off to Crescent Head. Called in to look at a lighthouse where I felt the presence ofspirits while walking up past the old lighthouse keepers place; my suspicions were proved correct when Ispoke to the people who had just been staying in it for the weekend. It had freaked them out they had paid$ 767 for six of them for two nights. On my bucket list goes that one.

Next camp was by a blocked off river, now privately owned across from the beach. The few othercampsites were crowded, ours was isolated except for one other up behind the trees. On the way we passeda beautiful python on the road at which I got out and shooed it into the bush in case some stupid idiotmight run it over. After our set up, walked the length of the beach and got back just before a huge stormhit; great energy in the air and clouds. This place was called Limeburners National Park, and I discoveredlater from some interesting old chap I spoke with, it was where they used to make the limestone from thecrushed oyster shells which gave such strength and resilience to the early building materials and mortar.There we had a nice headland to walk up, hill enshrouded with rainforest. From the top we could still spota few whales heading south.

This place was very relaxing yet we did a lot of beach walking, sometimes ten kilometres There wereblack swans and other assorted bird life on this lake river inlet. After our four or five days we packed up


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and ventured to the next spot. One day we listened to the Melbourne Cup, a famous horse race in Australia,in the front seat of the car in the pouring rain; too much excitement for one day. Tick bite in my neck wasstill very itchy.

Coast from Hill

Our Campsite

Next stop was Wauchopeand such a hot day. I had left my hat at a coffee shop in Crescent Headwhich was a shame, that hat has travelled all over the world with me. Anyway got another one, gotsupplies and drove up towards Ellenborough Camp Ground about thirty kilometres out; great little campspot.

But before that we went looking for Werrikimbe National Park and what an adventure that was, uplogging roads, and through some really wild terrain, lot of forest destruction, also many pockets of beauty.Tried to find Moorebank, then turned around, then tried Yaras and then had to turn around. It seemed likeall our destinations were cut off from us, after being stopped by trees, rocks and dead ends. We found aplace called Wild Bull camp site. It was getting on dark and we felt like we were lost in the woods, onthese really, really bad jagged rocky roads Set up camp in a poky little area, where the tables and chairshad been hacked to pieces, and a huge quarry full of charcoal lay near; felt really eerie. But the following

morning the creek was so nice to wash in, rinsed my hair and felt like new again after we packed up.


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Nope cant use this track

After setting up at Ellenborough we had to go into Wauchope once again to get a slow leaking tyrerepaired, which was only $18. 00 but did not last long. .

Our week atEllenborough was fun, floating down the rapids on my floating surf mat, checking out allthe wild herbs, mullien, opium poppies, nettles, docks, daisys and a million more; it was a beautiful wildgarden. I discovered from one of the locals that it was a camp for people back in the depression days wheremany lived. His mother was born there in the 1930s when times were very hard. Not like the leisureplayground it is today with all the travellers and their flash caravans. One rig that was there was enormous,must have been about $450 grands worth They did not seem to mingle with the others while we were there,just holed up in their luxury. We met lots of people, a few too many we thought ,who kept yacking as wewere trying to pack and get away. , I think we have been living in this isolation for too long.

Passing scenery

We took a great drive over the back road, called Tom's Creek Road, through some magnificentscenery, old winding road, past dairy farms all the way up to the plateau ofComboyne where the viewswere so fantastic and the air so clean. Had lunch at a cute little cafe, strangely there was no hotel in town, I

am sure in its heyday it must have had a grand old building that perhaps burnt to the ground, as many ofthe old hotels did.


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Lunch stop Comboyne cafe

A drive down through to Laurieton on the coast after we had been out to visit the Ellenborough Falls,very long drive, Falls, out in the middle of nowhere. A few hippy type dwellings about at a place calledElands, sadly looking wilder than hippies or perhaps I am just changing,. but I think many people are a lotmore messier and dont care about self pride as much as they used to be.

Down the mountain on the other side, found a lovely swim spot in what was once a well maintainedstate park recreation area, with stone steps and bridges and pathways, fast flowing streams with walls onother side carved from the rivers course, and a huge area of pollution and sludge banked up from someonedamming it with large rocks, which I removed and sent the gunk on its way downstream, allowing the

fresh water to push on through. Now sadly all run down and rubbish left lying about by wild animals of thehuman species variety. , We came across an old railway line which once hauled out all the mighty timberfrom this area. This was still going on now, by more modern methods.

I also collected a leech on my foot. and watched it swell with my blood till we got back to the car andsizzled it with a hot match.

Arriving in Laurieton we found a cabin and went out for dinner and did some washing; it was a thrill tolook at a TV again. This is a town we have come to know very well as we think we may retire heresomeday.

The following day we decided to go for a drive inland and try to find one of the largest trees in N. S.W. Unfortunately the signs were not too good and we drove about many back roads and did not find it. Iam sure its not going anywhere soon, I will find it one day. I was not feeling very well as I think I mayhave poisoned myself trying out all the different weeds in my travels. We went way up to some lookout

which was a wild road, and all fogged out anyway, but the stands of rainforest we did come across, inbetween all the logging, was awesome. Giant Red Cedars and Beech trees, quite a magical drive althoughvery unkempt roads, the sign even stated Council ends any roadwork from way back. Came across a nicelittle waterfall with a lone Japanese photographer who had come up in his conventional hire car, I am surehe was not aware of how rough the road was which I thought very brave of him.


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Waterfall in from Hannam Vale

We were camped atKylies Beach, a nice little spot up from Crowdy Head National Park, inland fromLaurieton for a week or so. Normal routines of long beach walks, day trips, reading and writing. A ladyonce wrote a book from a little cabin in the forest from here, named The Man of The Headland, so Ithought it would be a fitting place to begin writing my journey which is where I wrote the beginning of thisbook.

These campgrounds we stay at are all very well looked after and the amenities, shower and toiletscleaned daily. There was a long beach stretch which we walked, and what I loved about it was there wasnothing in between here and Crowdy Head, only sand dunes and wilderness. Unlike Queensland whichlikes to exploit some of its coastal land to the max with houses and buildings everywhere. Like the GoldCoast, Gary had a most amazing experience while standing peacefully fishing from the beach. A kangaroo

came right in front of him and swam out to sea followed by a dingo in hot pursuit on its heels trying tocatch it, the poor kangaroo was swimming and treading water a hundred metres out right up till Gary left atdark to come home. The following morning we spotted roo foot prints heading back into the bush, we hopeit made it to safety but nature has its own rules. From then on I began to notice more dingo tracks in thesand so felt a bit wary when I was about seven kilometres or so from the camp while on my walks, Viewsfrom this headland were superb.

Hill Lookout


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Camp site Brettie Reserve

Next journey was back inland to Brettie Reserve. On the road we loved the Thunderbolt HighwayAfter a lunch stop and shop atGloucesterwhere I kept running into the same lady who I had a nice

little chat with and waved at the many times we passed her by in the street, it was so funny. I was as if wewere old friends from way back but we had only just met and chatted in the supermarket but sometimespeople just seem to click andbounce off each others energy. We drove out to the beautiful Free Camp sitenestled down in a valley by a creek. This became home for a week, where we rode our bikes up overmountains and paths, enjoying all the wonders of simplicity and nature; we had noisy neighbours with agenerator which we were glad to be rid of when they left. This place was once where all the locals used tocome and have their New Years Eve celebrations in times gone bye so I heard.

After here we went back to Gloucester, loaded up on reading material from the ladies at one of the

church sale op shop stores and drove up to Barrington Tops Wonderful drive and excellent vacant campsite to choose wherever we wanted. This area has a walk around bog lake where wombats live, sadly weonly seen two dead ones on the road

Thursday, 20 October 2012, is one of the coldest nights I have ever felt. Clear skies, frozen fingersholding the torch to read by in bed; Garys body nice and warm to hug into. Following day walked up to anancient beech forest set amid massive escarpments, sheer 1000 foot high walls of basalt.

Looking over Barrington Tops


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The Old Moonan Pub

The road

Then we drove down the western side to a small old gold mining town called Moonan Flats, verycharming hotel where we had a beer. Since 1846 it had been operating and not much structural change,except a few repairs. The land on this side of the mountains had been totally cleared and was sad, a fewodd trees here and there still stood.

One night a gun went off and I thought it may be some crazy man going for the camp shoot out, veryscary. A week later I found out that one of the most wanted man in N. S. W. was spotted up there thatweek, lucky it was only some dick head hunters freaking out the campers.

Down from here we made our way to Yagon nearSeal Rockswhere it rained for much of the week,which was beginning to get on my nerves Met a nice young couple who we invited over for a meal andplayed a bit of music, brave German girl and nice young driller from Canada who told me some distressingfacts about how much drilling for oil and gas which is going on in the Arctic circle. We went out for a fewday trips, and had a hot shower at the camp ground up the road, very nice too. This is a very beautiful partof the coast.

We had word from our tenant she wanted out, so after a few days staying in the luxury of mybrothershouse in Salamander Bay, we turned around and headed back towards Gympie Town to sort out another

tenant and clean up house and grounds. We stopped at Apsley Falls just outside of the town of Walcha forfive days by a grand waterfall.


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Aspley Falls near Walcha

A trip back home to survey the house and re-rent it via a real estate agent and pack all our gear inside acontainer My birthday was on the way home on the 6 December. We stayed in Warrick at a nice little hotelwith a owner who reminded me of a certain film star, I turned fifty-six.

An Adventure Around Australia In A Ute

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