Amigurumi Parent and Baby Animals Ebook3000

includes

basic crochet

instructions

AMIGURUMIPATTERNS.NET

Crochet soft and snuggly moms and dads with the cutest babies!

http://www.amigurumipatterns.net

Amigurumi Parent and Baby Animals

First published September 2015

© 2015 - Amigurumipatterns.net / Meteoor bvba

Mutsaardstraat 18, 2000 Antwerpen, Belgium

www.amigurumipatterns.net

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AMIGURUMIPATTERNS.NET

Crochet soft and snuggly moms and dads with the cutest babies!


Hi!

Each year we organize a design competition for crochet lovers on

our website www.amigurumipatterns.net. It's the loveliest time of

the year, as it's amazing to see all these creative designs pour in.

The theme of our latest contest, elaborated upon in this book,

reached new heights in terms of cuteness. You'll find the sweetest

baby animals accompanied by their proud parents. A baby penguin

is driven around in his eggshell buggy, baby sloth spends all day on

mom's belly and baby bear celebrates his first birthday ... They will

all steal your heart away.

Occasionally you'll see an adult amigurumi with tired eyes, because

these mommies and daddies are not afraid to admit that parenting

sometimes has its downsides. Those sweet amigurumi babies need

constant attention after all, and a good night's sleep can be hard to

come by. But it takes just one smile or a mischievous look from their

little ones and they are completely in love again.

This new book contains twelve of the participating patterns –

25 characters in total. They all make great gifts for new parents or

playmates for your children.

Maybe you are making your very first amigurumi? Then don’t worry

– it's easy as pie! The book begins with a number of pages dedicated to

explaining all the basics. If you make characters from the patterns in

the book and would like to share the results, your photos are wel-

come at facebook.com/AmigurumiPatterns.net or on instagram with

#parentandbabyanimals. We look forward to seeing your amigurumi!

Happy crocheting!

Joke Vermeiren

www.amigurumipatterns.net


http://facebook.com/AmigurumiPatterns.net



Basic materials | page 6

What you should know before you start | page 7

Stitches | page 8

Mom Tilda & baby Earl armadillo (Patchwork Moose) | page 16

Little Tim the fawn & his mommy (Stuff The Body) | page 28

Maisy mouse & baby Charly (Erinna Lee) | page 37

July the kangaroo & her baby Jumpy (Kamlin Patterns) | page 42

Mama Lulu & baby Bea the sloths (Mevvsan) | page 50

5

16

28

37

42

50

56

66

79

85

98

104

11

0

page 56 | Rosy the T-rex & her baby boys (Lia Arjono)

page 66 | Dashy the beagle & his baby boy (Enna Design)

page 79 | Butterfly Bree & baby caterpillar Calin (Zabbez)

page 85 | Mama bear, papa bear & baby bear (Tales of Twisted Fibers)

page 98 | Mama Octa & her baby octopi (Diceberry Designs)

page 104 | Papa penguin & baby Pierre (Moji-Moji Design)

page 110 | Mama Frida monkey & baby Lila (Jamaica Y Tamarindo)

page 116 | Designers

CONTENTS

Colorful yarn

With every pattern in this book we list the materials used

to create that amigurumi. Any type of cotton, acrylic or

wool can be used. Yarn comes in different weights. The

yarn weight used in the original design is specified in

each pattern, you can however change this to suit your

preference provided you match it with the right crochet

hook. Much of what you need to know is on the yarn

label, but it might take a little bit of decoding. We have

added a chart below to help you make the right choice.

The amounts of yarn you need are rather small and will

vary according to how loosely or tightly you crochet, we

have added an estimate of the amount needed for each

pattern. You could use some of the remnants from other

projects or start with a new ball of yarn.

Crochet hooks

Not only yarn, but hooks as well come in different sorts

and sizes. Bigger hooks make bigger stitches than smaller

ones. It is important to match the right hook with the

right weight of yarn. The size of hook used for the original

design is indicated with each pattern. The crochetwork

should be quite tight, without any gaps through which

stuffing can escape. It is best to use a smaller hook than

stated on the yarn label to achieve this. Hooks are usually

made from aluminium, steel or plastic. Metal hooks tend

to slip between the stitches more easily.

Stitch marker

A stitch marker is a small clip made of metal or plastic.

It’s a simple tool to mark your starting point and give

you the assurance that you’ve made the right number of

stitches in each round. With my stitch marker I always

mark the last stitch of the previous round.

Stuffing and facial features

For the filling polyester fiberfill is advised. You can buy

this at any craft shop. It is inexpensive, washable and non-

allergenic. Be careful not to overstuff your character as

the stuffing might stretch the fabric and show through.

For some patterns safety eyes are used. These are widely

available. Be alert when you apply safety eyes: once you

put the washer on you won’t be able to pull it off again.

So be careful to make sure the post is where you want

it to be before attaching the washer. Alternatively, the

features can be embroidered, which is recommended if

you’re crocheting for children under the age of three. For

embroidery a tapestry needle with a rounded tip is used.

HOOK IN METRIC SIZE

NUMBER

CATEGORY

UK YARN

US YARN

HOOK IN US SIZE

1 2 3 4

super fine fine light medium

2,25 to 3,5mm

3,5 to 4,5mm

4,5 to 5,5mm 5,5 to 6,5mm

B-1 to E-4 E-4 to 7 7 to I-9I-9

to K-10 1/2

Fingering Sport LightWorsted

Worsted

3 ply 4 plydouble

knitting (DK)aran

6

BASIC MATERIALS

* For amigurumi you generally use a hook 2 or 3 sizes smaller than what is recommended on your yarn label and in this table.

*

*

Skill level

Every pattern is marked with a skill level to indicate how

easy they are to make. If this is your first time making

amigurumi it's best to start with an easy pattern and

work up to the intermediate and experienced ones.

Pattern structure

All patterns in this book are worked in continuous

spirals, not in joined rounds. Crocheting in spirals can

be confusing since there’s no clear indication of where

a new round begins and the previous one ends. To keep

track of the rounds, you can mark the end of a round

with a stitch marker or safety pin. After crocheting the

next round, you should end up right above your stitch

marker. Move your stitch marker at the end of each

round to keep track of where you are.

At the beginning of each line of the pattern you will

find ‘Rnd’ + a number to indicate which round you are

in. Although we usually crochet in rounds, occasionally

it happens that we switch to rows. When we switch to

rows, it will be indicated with ‘Row’ + a number.

At the end of each line you will find the number of stitch-

es you should have in brackets, for example [9]. When in

doubt take a moment to count your stitch count.

Abbreviations are used throughout the book. You can

find their explanations on the next pages.

When part of the instructions repeat throughout

the round, we place it between brackets and add the

number of times it should be repeated. We do this to

shorten the pattern and make it less cluttered.

Sometimes we use a more condensed way of writing.

When reading “inc in st 5, 7, 13”, you make a single

crochet in all stitches except for stitch 5, 7 and 13 where

you increase.

When working in rows, you make a turning chain and

turn your piece at the end of each row. Start the next

row in the second chain from your hook.

beginner

easy

intermediate

experienced

a challenge

7

In some patterns we use a diagram

to better explain a difficult part.

In these diagrams each stitch is

represented by a symbol.

WHAT YOU SHOULD KNOW BEFORE YOU START

chain

slip stitch

single crochet

double crochet

treble crochet

treble crochet 2 in one stitch

treble crochet 2 stitches together

BASIC STITCHES

With the stitches explained in the next pages you can

make all of the amigurumi in this book. It's a good idea to

practice all the basic stitches before you start making one

of the characters, as this will help you to read the patterns

and abbreviations more comfortably without having to

browse back to these pages too often.

Chain (abbreviation: ch)

This stitch is the basis for many crochet patterns. If

you’re working in rows, your first row will be a series of

chain stitches. Use the hook to draw the yarn through

the loop (1) and pull the loop until tight (2). Wrap the

yarn over the hook from back to front. Pull the hook,

carrying the yarn, through the loop already on your

hook (3). You have now completed one chain stitch.

Repeat these steps as indicated in the pattern to create a

foundation chain (4).

Single crochet (abbreviation: sc)

Single crochet is the stitch that will be most frequently

used in this book. Insert the hook into the next chain

stitch (1) and wrap the yarn over the hook. Pull the yarn

through the stitch (2). You will see that there are now two

loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook again

and draw it through both loops at once (3). You have now

completed one single crochet (4). Insert the hook into the

next chain stitch to continue the row (5). At the end of the

row (6) you need to bring the yarn up to the correct height

to work the first stitch. Make one chain stitch (7) and

turn the work (8). Start the next single crochet in the first

stitch (don’t count the turning chain as a stitch). To work

into a previous row of crochet, insert your hook under

both loops of the first stitch, as shown in the figure (9).

Slip stitch (abbreviation: slst)

A slip stitch is used to move across one or more stitches

at once or finish a piece. Insert your hook into the next

stitch (1). Wrap the yarn over the hook, pull it through

the stitch and the loop on your hook (2). You have now

completed one slip stitch.

1 2

3 4

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

8

9

1

2

Chain

Single crochet

Slip stitch

8

Double crochet (abbreviation: dc)

Bring your yarn over the hook from back to front before

placing the hook in the stitch. Now insert your hook in

the fourth chain – without counting the loop on the

hook (1). Wrap the yarn over the hook and draw the yarn

through the chain stitch. You now have three loops on the

hook (2). Wrap the yarn over the hook again and pull it

through the first two loops on the hook (3). You now have

2 loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook one last

time and draw it through both loops on the hook (4). You

have now completed one double crochet. To continue

bring your yarn over the hook and insert it in the next

chain stitch (5). Work the first stitch. To raise the yarn,

make three chain stitches. Start the next double crochet

in the second stitch. Be sure to insert your hook under

both loops of this stitch (7).

Triple or treble crochet (abbreviation: tr)

Bring your yarn over the hook twice before you insert

it in the fifth chain from the hook (1). Wrap the yarn

over the hook and draw the yarn through the chain

stitch (2). Wrap the yarn over the hook again and pull

it through the first two loops on the hook (3). Repeat

this last step twice (4 & 5). You have now completed

one triple crochet stitch. To start a second row, bring

your thread to the correct height by making four chain

stitches. Start the next triple crochet in the second

stitch. To start a second row, bring your thread to the

correct height by making four chain stitches.

1

2

3

12

3 4

5 6

7

Double crochet

4

9

5

12

3 4

Triple crochet

5

6

Half double crochet (abbreviation: hdc)


placing the hook in the stitch. Now insert your hook

in the third chain – without counting the loop on the

hook (1). Wrap the yarn over the hook and draw the yarn

through the chain stitch. You now have three loops on

the hook (2). Wrap the yarn over the hook again and pull

it through all three loops on the hook (3). You have com-

pleted your first half double crochet. To continue bring

your yarn over the hook and insert it in the next chain

stitch (4). To start a second row, bring your thread to the

correct height by making two chain stitches.

Increase (abbreviation: inc)

To increase you make two single crochet stitches in the

next stitch.

Invisible decrease (abbreviation: dec)

The standard method of decreasing can leave a small

bump or gap. The invisible decrease is an alternative

method of decreasing which will make your decrease-

stitch look much like the other stitches in the row,

resulting in a smoother and more even crochet fabric.

Insert the hook in the front loop of your first stitch.

Now immediately insert your hook in the front loop of

the second stitch (1). You now have three loops on your

hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook and draw it through

the first two loops on your hook (2). Wrap the yarn over

again and draw it through the two loops remaining on

your hook (4). You have now completed one invisible

decrease.

Invisibly decrease 3 stitches at once

(abbreviation: sc3tog)

Insert the hook under the front loop only of the next

three stitches (1). This gives you four loops on the

hook (2). Wrap the yarn over the hook and draw it

through the first three loops on your hook. Wrap

the yarn over the hook again and pull through the

remaining two loops on the hook (3). You have now

completed one sc3tog.

3

12

3 4

Half double crochet

12

Increase

1 2

12

3

Invisible decrease

Invisibly decrease 3 stitches at once

3

10

Front loops only (abbreviation: FLO)

and Back loops only (abbreviation: BLO)

When making a crochet stitch, you end up with two loops

at the top of the stitch, a front loop towards you (1) and

a back loop (2). When asked to crochet FLO or BLO you

make the same stitch but leave one loop untouched.

Magic ring

A magic ring is the ideal way to start crocheting in the

round. You start by crocheting over an adjustable loop

then you pull the loop tight when you have finished

the required number of stitches. The advantage of this

method is that there’s no hole left in the middle of your

starting round.

Start with the yarn crossed to form a circle (1). Draw up

a loop with your hook but don’t pull it tight (2). Hold the

circle with your middle finger and thumb, and wrap the

working yarn over your index finger (3). Make one chain

stitch by wrapping the yarn over the hook and pulling

it through the loop on your hook (4, 5). Now insert your

hook into the loop and underneath the tail. Wrap the

yarn over the hook and draw up a loop (6). Wrap the yarn

over the hook again and draw it through both loops on

your hook (7). You have now completed your first single

crochet (8). Continue to crochet until you have the re-

quired number of stitches as mentioned in the pattern.

Now grab the yarn tail and pull to draw the centre of the

ring tightly closed (9).

You can now begin your second round by crocheting

into the first stitch of the first round. You can use a

stitch marker to remember where you started.

If you do not prefer this technique, you can start each

piece using the following technique: ch 2, x sc into the

second chain from the hook – where x is the number of

sc stitches you would make in your magic ring.

1 2

Front loops or Back loops only

11

tail

working yarn

tailworking yarn

12

3 4

Magic ring

5

6

78

9

10

SPECIAL STITCHES

These stitches are less commonly used and may not necessarily

be known by heart. When you bump into a stitch that’s new to

you, browse back to these pages to find a tutorial.

Bobble stitch

The bobble stitch creates a soft dimensional bobble in

your crochetwork. Think of it as a cluster of dc stitches

worked in the same stitch.


placing the hook in the stitch (1). Wrap the yarn over the

hook and draw the yarn through the stitch. You now have

three loops on the hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook

again and pull it through the first two loops on the hook.

One half-closed double crochet is complete, and two

loops remain on the hook (2). In the same stitch, repeat

the preceding steps twice. You should have four loops on

your hook. Wrap the yarn over your hook and draw the

yarn through all four loops on the hook (3). One 3-dc-

bobble-stitch is complete. Create a bobble stitch with as

many dc stitches as indicated in the pattern.

Spike stitch

Instead of working into the two loops of the next stitch,

work into the corresponding stitch in the row below the

next stitch (1). Wrap the yarn over the hook and draw

it through the stitch. You now have two loops on your

hook. Wrap the yarn over the hook once more and pull

it through both loops on your hook (2). You have now

completed one spike stitch.

Crab stitch or Reverse single crochet

Crab stitch is also known as reverse single crochet. At the

end of your row of single crochet, do not turn your work –

you will be working from left to right. Insert your hook in

the first stitch to the right (1). Wrap the yarn around the

hook and pull up a loop (2). The new stitch is to the left of

the loop originally on the hook. Pull up a loop and pull it

through both loops on your hook (3).

12

1 2

3

Bobble stitch

1 2

Spike stitch

Crab stitch or Reverse single crochet

1 2

3

Half double crochet decrease

(abbreviation: hdc dec or hdc3tog for more than 2 st)


placing the hook in the next stitch (1). Wrap the yarn over

your hook and pull it through the stitch. You now have

three loops on your crochet hook. Repeat this from the

start in the next stitch (2). You now have five loops on

your hook. Wrap the yarn over your hook once more and

pull it through all five loops on your hook (3). You have

now decreased two half double crochet stitches.

Double crochet decrease

(abbreviation: dc dec or dc3tog for more than 2 st)


placing the hook in the next stitch (1). Wrap the yarn

over your hook and pull it through the stitch. You now

have three loops on your crochet hook. Wrap the yarn

over your hook and draw it through the first two loops on

your hook. You now have two loops on your hook. Repeat

this from the start in the next stitch. You now have three

loops on your hook. Wrap the yarn over your hook once

more (2) and pull it through all three loops on your hook.

You have now decreased two double crochet stitches.

Triple crochet decrease

(abbreviation: tr dec or tr3tog for more than 2 st)

Bring your yarn over the hook twice from back to front

before placing the hook in the next stitch (1). Wrap the

yarn over your hook and pull it through the stitch. You

now have four loops on your crochet hook. Wrap the

yarn over your hook and draw it through the first two

loops on your hook. You now have three loops on your

hook. Wrap the yarn over your hook again and draw it

through the first two loops on your hook. You now have

two loops on your hook. Repeat this from the start in the

next stitch. You now have a total of three loops on your

hook. Wrap the yarn over your hook once more (2) and

pull it through all three loops on your hook. You have

now decreased two triple crochet stitches.

13

1 2

Half double crochet decrease

3

1

2

Double crochet decrease

12

Triple crochet decrease

Back post or Front post single crochet

To make a back post or front post single crochet, insert the

hook from right to left around the vertical post of the next

stitch according to the picture. Wrap the yarn over the hook

and draw up a loop. Finish the single crochet stitch as usual.

OTHER TECHNIQUES

Crocheting around a foundation chain

Some pieces start with an oval instead of a circle. In

these instances, instead of working the first round into

a magic ring, you start with a foundation chain and

crochet around it.

Crochet a foundation chain with as many chains as

instructed in the pattern. Work a sc stitch under the back

loop only of the second chain from hook (1, 2) and under

the back loop only of each remaining chain across as

instructed in the pattern (3). The last stitch before turning

is usually an increase stitch. Now, turn your work upside

down (4) and work into the leftover loops of the chain

stitches on the other side (5). When you've finished this

first round, your last stitch should be next to the first stitch

you made (6). You can now continue working in spirals.

Crocheting into a ring

When you want a center ring that is open, instead of

closed like a magic ring, you start out with a ring of chain

stitches, after which your first round is worked over the

ring. Make a series of chain stitches as instructed in the

pattern, close with a slip stitch in the first chain to make

a ring (1). Now insert your hook into the center of the

ring, instead of into the chain stitch (2). Complete the

stitch in the usual way. Follow the pattern instructions to

determine how many stitches to work into the ring.

Crocheting into the back of a chain

Usually you crochet in the front side of the chain, which

looks like a series of interlocking V's (1). When you turn

your chain, you'll see a small 'bump' on the back side of

each stitch (2). Insert your hook under this bump and

continue as usual.

14

back post front post

Back post or Front post single crochet

Crocheting into a ring

12

Crocheting around a foundation chain

12

34

5

6

Crocheting into the back of a chain

1

2

Invisible color change

When you want to switch from one color to the next,

you work to within two stitches before a color change.

Make the next stitch as usual, but don’t pull the final

loop through (1). Instead, wrap the new color of yarn

around your hook and pull it through the remaining

loops (2). To make a neat color change, you can make

the first stitch in the new color a slip stitch instead of a

single crochet. Don’t pull the slip stitch too tight or it

will be difficult to crochet into in the next round. Tie the

loose tails in a knot and leave them on the inside.

Fastening off

When you've finished crocheting, cut the yarn a couple

of inches / cm from your last stitch. Pull the yarn

through the last loop until it is all the way through (1).

You now have a finished knot.

Thread the long tail through a tapestry needle and

15

1

2

Invisible color change

1

2

Fastening off

insert your tapestry needle through the back loop of the

next stitch (2). This way the finishing knot will remain

invisible in your finished piece. You can use this piece of

yarn to continue sewing the body pieces together.

Joining all parts

First, pin the parts that you want to sew to one another,

so you can evaluate the results and adjust if necessary.

Where possible, use the leftover yarn tail from one of

the pieces to sew the work together, or use a new length

of the same thread colour as one of the pieces you want

to join. Some designers leave the extremities open for

sewing onto the body, others sew them closed.

When open: position the piece on the body and sew all

around it, going through the front stitches of both the

extremity and the body.

When the opening of the extremities is sewn closed be-

fore attaching it to the body, you line up the stitches of

one side with the other side and sew through the front

loop of one side and the back loop of the other side. Use

the same color of yarn as one of the pieces you want to

join together.

Always make sure pieces are securely attached so that

they can’t be pulled off. Make small, neat stitches and

try to make them show as little as possible.

Blocking your crochet items

Blocking refers to the process of stretching and evening

out stitches of a finished crochet item to ensure it is

the proper size and shape. There are different ways to

achieve this, depending upon the yarn used.

– Moisten your fabric. Lay it on a clean towel and put

a second one on top, pressing out as much water as

possible. Pull your item into the desired shape and

pin it to the towel. Let the garment air dry.

– Lay your item on a dry towel on your ironing board.

Place a wet washcloth over your item. Press the hot

iron on your washcloth for a few seconds. Repeat as

necessary. Pull your item into the proper shape and

allow it to air dry. Because acrylics are sensitive to

heat, they should not be steam blocked.

Tilda and Earl are nine banded armadillos. They spend their days curled up and snoozing in

their burrow and their evenings slurping up the bugs like noodles. Their favourite pastimes

include hide and seek in the undergrowth and making mud pies.

skill level

8” / 20.5 cm long 6” / 15.5 cm long

mom baby

16

17

NOTE: This pattern involves a color change in the bobble

stitches. You will need to change to white yarn for every

3-dc-bobble / 5-dc-bobble stitch in the pattern. Switch

back to the main color stated for all other stitches. To

change color smoothly start your bobble in white yarn

but when you have your 4/6 loops left on the hook, yarn

over with the main yarn and pull through all 4/6 loops

on the hook to complete the stitch. When making color

changes, drop the yarn you are not using to the back of

your work and pick it up again when you need it, being

careful not to pull it too loose or too tight when starting

with it again.

TILDA – MOM ARMADILLO

HEAD (in beige yarn)

Rnd 1: start 5 sc in a magic ring [5]

Rnd 2 – 3: sc in all 5 st [5]

Fasten off the first nostril.

Repeat rounds 1 to 3 so that you have two nostrils.

Do not fasten off the second nostril. We continue to

work around both nostrils to join them together.

Rnd 4: working into the current nostril, inc in next 3 st,

sc in next st, working back into the first nostril, sc, inc

in next 3 st, sc in next st and sc back into the remaining

st in the second nostril [16]

Push each nostril in. (picture 1)

Rnd 5 – 10: sc in all 16 st [16]

Rnd 11: sc in next 5 st, inc in next 6 st, sc in next 5 st [22]

Rnd 12: sc in all 22 st [22]

Rnd 13: sc in next 5 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st)

repeat 6 times, sc in next 5 st [28]


Rnd 15: sc in next 7 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 12 st,

inc in next 3 st, sc in next 3 st [34]

Mark st 13 and 26 on the next round with a stitch marker.

This will indicate where to affix the eyes later.


Rnd 17: sc in next 7 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st)

repeat 3 times, sc in next 12 st, (sc in next st, inc in next st)



Rnd 19: (inc in next st, sc in next 4 st) repeat 8 times [48]

Rnd 20 – 24: sc in all 48 st [48]

Attach the eyes in the stitches marked earlier. Stuff the

head with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.

Rnd 25: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 6 times [42]





Rnd 30: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]

materials – mom

– DK / light worsted weight yarn in

beige (90 g / 180 m), gray (50 g / 100 m),

white (30 g / 60 m)

– Safety eyes (20 mm)

materials – baby

– DK / light worsted weight yarn in

beige (60 g / 120 m), gray (25 g / 50 m)

white (20 g / 40 m)


both

– Size 3.5 mm / E-4 crochet hook

– Fiberfill for stuffing

– 3 Stitch markers

– Yarn needle

– Pins

1

Rnd 31: dec 6 times [6]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Using your

yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the front

loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close.

Weave in the yarn ends. Stitch up the hole between

the nostrils.

LEFT EYELID (in beige yarn)

We crochet in rows. Ch 7.

Row 1: start in second chain from hook. Sc, hdc, dc,

hdc, sc, slst [6]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

RIGHT EYELID (in beige yarn)


Row 1: start in second chain from hook. Slst, sc, hdc,

dc, hdc, sc [6]


EAR (make 2, in beige yarn)



Rnd 3: inc 4 times [8]


Rnd 5: (sc, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [12]


Rnd 7: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times [16]

Rnd 8 – 9: sc in all 16 st [16]


Rnd 11 – 13: sc in all 20 st [20]




BODY (in beige yarn)











Rnd 11 – 24: sc in all 60 st [60]





18




Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff the body.

LEFT LEG (make 2, start in beige yarn)

NOTE: You will need to change to white yarn for every

5-dc-bobble stitch. Switch back to beige for all other stitches.



Rnd 3: (inc, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 4: (inc, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [24]

Rnd 5: (5-dc-bobble, sc in next 2 st) repeat 4 times, sc in

next 12 st [24]

Rnd 6 – 10: sc in all 24 st [24]

Rnd 11: (dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat 6 times [18]


We continue working in rows.

Row 13: sc in next 12 st, ch 1, turn [12]


Row 15: dec, sc in next 4 st, dec [6]

Finishing round: sc in next 2 st down the row edge, slst in

next 8 st, sc in next 2 st up the row edge, sc in next 6 st [18]

Slst in the next st and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Stuff the leg.

RIGHT LEG (make 2, start in beige yarn)







Rnd 5: (5-dc-bobble, sc in next 2 st) repeat 4 times,

sc in next 12 st [24]

Rnd 6 – 10: sc in all 24 st [24]







Finishing rnd: sc in next 2 st down the row edge, sc in

next 8 st, sc in next 2 st up the row edge, sc in next 6 st [18]

Slst in the next st and fasten off, leaving a tail for

sewing. Stuff the leg.

HEAD PLATE (start in gray yarn) (picture 2)


5-dc-bobble stitch. Switch back to gray for all other stitches.

Crochet in rows. Ch 2.

19

Row 1: start 3 sc in second chain from hook, ch 1, turn [3]

Row 2: inc in next st, 5-dc-bobble, inc in next st, ch 1,

turn [5]

Row 3: sc in all 5 st, ch 1, turn [5]

Row 4: inc in next st, 5-dc-bobble, sc, 5-dc-bobble, inc

in next st, ch 1, turn [7]


Row 6: inc in next st, (5-dc-bobble, sc in next st) repeat

2 times, 5-dc-bobble, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [9]







Row 11: dec, sc in next 9 st, dec, ch 1, turn [11]

Row 12: dec, (5-dc-bobble, sc in next st) repeat 3 times,

5-dc-bobble, dec, ch 1, turn [9]



Finishing rnd: sc 12 st along the edge of the plate toward

the beginning ch, inc in the base of the ch, sc 12 st back up

the edge of the plate toward the first st made [26]


BODY ARMOUR (start in gray yarn)




Row 1: start 5 sc in second chain from hook, ch 1, turn [5]

Row 2: inc 5 times, ch 1, turn [10]

Row 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 5 times, ch 1,

turn [15]

Row 4: (inc in next st, 5-dc-bobble, sc in next st) repeat

5 times, ch 1, turn [20]

Row 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 5 times, ch 1,

turn [25]

Row 6: (inc in next st, 5-dc-bobble, sc in next 2 st,

5-dc-bobble) repeat 4 times, inc in next st, 5-dc-bobble,

sc in next 3 st, ch 1, turn [30]

Row 7: (inc in next st, sc in next 5 st) repeat 5 times,

ch 1, turn [35]

Row 8: inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, 5-dc-bobble, sc in

next 2 st, (sc + 5-dc-bobble in same st, sc in next 3 st,

5-dc-bobble, sc in next 2 st) repeat 4 times, ch 1, turn [40]

Row 9: (inc in next st, sc in next 7 st) repeat 5 times,

ch 1, turn [45]

Row 10: (inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, 5-dc-bobble, sc in

next 4 st, 5-dc-bobble) repeat 4 times, inc in next st, sc

in next 2 st, 5-dc-bobble, sc in next 5 st, ch 1, turn [50]


Row 12: (sc in next 2 st, 5-dc-bobble, sc in next 4 st,



Row 14: BLO sc in all 50 st, ch 1, turn [50]

Row 15: FLO sc in all 50 st, ch 1, turn [50]






Fasten off. Join yarn again at the first sc stitch of row 20

20

2 3 4 5

and continue to work the armour in rows.

Row 21: (sc in next 2 st, 5-dc-bobble, sc in next 4 st,



Row 23: dec, sc in next 3 st, (5-dc-bobble, sc in next

4 st, 5-dc-bobble, dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat 4 times,

5-dc-bobble, sc in next 4 st, ch 1, turn [45]

Row 24: (dec, sc in next 7 st) repeat 5 times, ch 1, turn [40]

Row 25: (dec, 5-dc-bobble, sc in next 3 st, 5-dc-bobble,

sc in next st) repeat 5 times, ch 1, turn [35]


Row 27: (dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat 5 times [25]

Finishing rnd: sc 26 st along the row edge toward the

beginning ch, sc into the ch and sc 26 st back up to the

start [53]


ARMOUR BANDS (in white yarn)

We will now be working 7 rows of sc into the loops left open

earlier on. Work with the right side facing you. (picture 3)

Band 1 (In the open loops of row 13): sc in all 50 st,

fasten off [50]


fasten off [50]


fasten off [50]


fasten off [50]


fasten off [50]


fasten off [50]


fasten off [50]

Weave in the yarn ends. (picture 4, 5)

TAIL (start in gray yarn)

NOTE: To change from gray to white, work up to the last

stitch, then insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up

a loop as usual when doing a sc, then yarn over with white

yarn pulling it through to complete the stitch.

To change from white to gray after completing each slst

round, insert your hook again into the first slst of the round

(picture 6) and pull through the gray yarn (picture 7), ready

to start the next round in the leftover back loops (picture 8).

Drop the yarn you are not using to the back of your work

and pick it up again when you need it.



Rnd 3: inc in next st, sc in next 4 st [6]

Change to white yarn.

Rnd 4: FLO slst in all 6 st [6]

Change to gray yarn.

Rnd 5: working in the leftover back loops of rnd 3,

sc in all 6 st [6]







6 7 8

21

sc in all 7 st [7]







sc in all 8 st [8]







sc in all 9 st [9]



Stuff the end of the tail lightly. Change to white yarn.




sc in all 10 st [10]
























Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff the tail.

ASSEMBLY

– Stitch the eyelids on making sure to curve them

around the eyes.

– Place the head plate on top of the head between the

eyes, with the back edge resting along round 27 of the

head. Stitch on firmly.

– Flatten the ears and stitch closed. The ears do not need

to be stuffed. Place the ears on the head so that the sewn

edge lies horizontally, directly below the diagonal edge

of the head plate. Sew the ears to the head firmly.

– Starting along round 25 of the body (where the

decreases begin), pin a pair of legs to the body with

a gap of 4 stitches between them and the claws facing

toward the neck edge. Pin the last pair of legs 3 rounds

22

behind the front legs, with the back edges resting

along round 8 of the body. Make sure they are both in

line with the front legs and that the claws point

toward the neck edge. Don’t stitch the legs on just yet.

– Place the head on the neck edge of the body, with the

head closure meeting the top of the neck edge. Adjust

the head to tilt to the side a little and pin in place.

– Rest your armadillo on a flat surface to make sure she

can balance and adjust the legs slightly if she falls over.

When she can balance stitch the legs and head on firmly.

– Drape the armour over the body with the starting chain

of the armour resting on the starting magic ring on the

body. Stitch the armour to the body along the rear and

neck edge, leaving the sides unattached to fall along

side the legs.

– Stitch the tail just under the edge of the armour.

EARL THE BABY ARMADILLO


Ch 4. Stitches are worked around both sides of the

foundation chain.

Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, 3 sc in first st, sc in

next st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the

foundation chain, sc in next st [8]

Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 4 times [12]

Rnd 3 – 7: sc in all 12 st [12]


Rnd 9: sc in next 5 st (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat

3 times, sc in next 4 st [18]

Rnd 10 – 12: sc in all 18 st [18]

Mark stitch 9 and 20 on the next round with a stitch

marker. This will indicate where to affix the eyes later.


inc in next 3 st, sc in next st [24]

Rnd 14: sc in next 5 st (sc in next st, inc in next st)

repeat 3 times, sc in next 6 st (inc in next st, sc in

next st) repeat 3 times, sc in next st [30]

Rnd 15 – 20: sc in all 30 st [30]

Attach the eyes in the stitches marked earlier.

Stuff the head and continue stuffing as you go.






yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the front

loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close.

Weave in the yarn end.

LEFT EYELID (in beige yarn)


Row 1: start in second ch from hook. Sc, hdc, dc, hdc,

sc, slst [6]


RIGHT EYELID (in beige yarn)


Row 1: start in second chain from hook. Slst, sc, hdc,

dc, hdc, sc [6]


23

EAR (make 2, in beige yarn)






Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 12 st [12]


Rnd 9 – 10: sc in all 16 st [16]


Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

BODY (in beige yarn)








Rnd 8 – 19: sc in all 42 st [42]





Stuff the body.




yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop

of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave

in the yarn end.

ARM (make 2, in beige yarn)


foundation chain.

Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, 3 sc in first st,

sc in next 2 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side

of the foundation chain, sc in next 2 st [10]

Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in

next 2 st) repeat 2 times [14]

Rnd 3 – 7: sc in all 14 st [14]





Finishing rnd: sc 2 st down the row edge, sc in next

6 st, sc 2 st up the row edge [10]

Slst in next st and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Stuff the arm with fiberfill.

CLAW (make 2, in white yarn)

The claws are made in one continuous piece, do not

fasten off between claws. Ch 4.

Claw 1: start in second chain from hook, sc in all 3 st [3]

Claw 2: ch 6, start in second chain from hook, sc in all 5 st [5]



Top Row: ch 1, sc 4 st across the edge of the claws, so you

end up back at the first claw [4]

Slst in next st and fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Stitch the claws firmly to the foundation chain of the arms.

FOOT (make 2, start in beige yarn)




foundation chain.

Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, 3 sc in first st, sc in

next 2 st, 3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the

foundation chain, sc in next 2 st [10]

Rnd 2: (inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in

next 2 st) repeat 2 times [14]

Rnd 3: sc in next 4 st, 5-dc-bobble, sc in next 2 st,

5-dc-bobble, sc in next 6 st [14]

Rnd 4: sc in next 2 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 6 st,

3 sc in next st, sc in next 4 st [18]


Rnd 6: sc in next 4 st, 5-dc-bobble, sc in next 7 st,

5-dc-bobble, sc in next 5 st [18]

Rnd 7: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 6 times [12]

Rnd 8 – 10: sc in all 12 st [12]

24

25

Stuff lightly with fiberfill.





in the yarn end.

FOOT SHAPING (with beige yarn) (picture 9, 10)

To shape the toes you will be making three stitches in

between the bobble stitches on the feet. With a needle,

stitch between the first two bobble stitches, into round

5 of the foot, and make a long stitch exiting horizontally

at the other side. Then stitch again in the same place,

looping the yarn around the foot and pulling it tightly.

Repeat this stitch a few times and fasten off securely.

Repeat these stitches twice more between the other

bobble stitches.

HEAD PLATE (start in gray yarn)




Row 1: start 3 sc in second ch from hook, ch 1, turn [3]

Row 2: inc in next st, 3-dc-bobble, inc in next st, ch 1,

turn [5]


Row 4: inc in next st, 3-dc-bobble, sc, 3-dc-bobble, inc

in next st, ch 1, turn [7]








Row 10: dec, (3-dc-bobble, sc in next st) repeat 2 times,

3-dc-bobble, dec, ch 1, turn [7]



Finishing rnd: sc 11 st along the edge of the plate toward

the beginning ch, inc in the base of the ch, sc 11 st back up

the edge of the plate toward the first st made [24]

Slst in next st and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

BODY ARMOUR (start in gray yarn) (picture 11)




Row 1: start 4 sc in second ch from hook, ch 1, turn [4]

Row 2: inc 4 times [8]

Row 3: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 4 times, ch 1,

turn [12]

Row 4: (inc in next st, 3-dc-bobble, sc in next st) repeat

4 times, ch 1, turn [16]

Row 5: (inc in next st, sc in next 3 st) repeat 4 times, ch 1,

turn [20]

Row 6: (inc in next st, 3-dc-bobble, sc in next 2 st,

3-dc-bobble) repeat 4 times, sc into the same st as the

last 3-dc-bobble, ch 1, turn [25]

Row 7: sc in next 7 st, (inc in next st, sc in next 5 st)

repeat 3 times, ch 1, turn [28]

Row 8: (sc in next st, 3-dc-bobble, sc in next 2 st,

9 10 11

26










Fasten off. Join yarn again in the first sc stitch of row

16 and continue to work the armour in rows.

Row 17: (sc in next st, 3-dc-bobble, sc in next 2 st,



Row 19: dec, sc in next st, (3-dc-bobble, sc in next 2 st,

3-dc-bobble, dec) repeat 3 times, 3-dc-bobble, sc in next

2 st, ch 1, turn [20]


Row 21: (dec, sc in next st, 3-dc-bobble) repeat 3 times,

dec, 3-dc-bobble, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [12]

Row 22: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 4 times, ch 1, turn [8]

Row 23: dec 4 times, ch 1, turn [4]


Row 25: dec [1]

Finishing rnd: sc 24 along the row edge toward

the beginning ch, sc in the ch and sc 24 back up

to the start [49]

Slst in the next st and fasten off, leaving a

tail for sewing.

ARMOUR BANDS (in white yarn)

We will now be working 6 rows of sc

into the loops left open earlier on.

Work with the right side facing you.

Band 1 (In the open loops of row 9):

sc in all 28 st, fasten off [28]






fasten off [28]


fasten off [28]


fasten off [28]

Weave in the yarn ends.

TAIL (start in gray yarn)

NOTE: To change from gray to white work up to the last

stitch, then insert your hook into the next stitch and pull up

a loop as usual when doing a sc, then yarn over with white

yarn pulling it through to complete the stitch.

To change from white to gray after completing each slst

round, insert your hook again into the first slst of the round

and pull through the gray yarn, ready to start the next round.

Drop the yarn you are not using to the back of your work

and pick it up again when you need it.

27








sc in all 6 st [6]







sc in all 7 st [7]


Stuff the tail.






sc in all 8 st [8]







sc in all 9 st [9]



Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff the tail lightly.

ASSEMBLY

– Stitch the eyelids on, making sure to curve them

around the eyes.

– Place the head plate on top of the head between the

eyes, with the back edge resting along round 21 of the

head. Stitch on firmly.

– Flatten the ears and sew them closed. The ears do not

need to be stuffed. Place the ears on the head so that

the sewn edge lies horizontally, directly below the

diagonal edge of the head plate. Sew to the head firmly.

– Fit the armour over the body so that the top and bottom

edge meet the starting magic ring and closure of the

body. Sew the armour on firmly along the edges.

– Align the back of the head at round 18, with round

5 on the body and adjust the head to tilt to the side

a little. Make sure the head rests in the middle of the

body, half way between the armour edges, then stitch

on firmly.

– Stitch the tail in front of the armour, so it rests against

the starting chain of the armour and is in line with the

head.

– Pin the feet either side of the tail. Pin the arms either

side of the head, in line with the eyes. When you are

happy with the arm and feet placement, stitch them

both on firmly.

When Tim was a very little fawn, his brothers told him the Bambi story. He's been a bit panicky ever since.

But his mommy loves him and would never leave him alone – not even for a little while.

She encourages him and teaches him to be brave.

skill level

8” / 20.5 cm tall 5” / 13 cm tall

mom baby

28

Earfan: tr 5 in next sc, ch 3, slst in first ch,

tr 5 in the same sc [14]

The next stitch after the earfan can be hidden underneath

the earfan. Make sure you continue in the right stitch.

materials – mom

– Sport weight yarn in white (10 g / 35 m),

black (10 g / 35 m), orange (50 g / 160 m)


materials – baby

– Sport weight yarn in white (10 g / 35 m),

black (10 g / 35 m), orange (30 g / 100 m)


both

– Size 1.75 mm crochet hook


– Yarn needle

MOM FAWN

HEAD & BODY (start with orange yarn)

The color is indicated throughout the pattern.

NOTE: This pattern is for a deer looking to the right. If you

want to make a deer looking to the left, use this alteration:

After you finish round 16 of the head, crochet an additional

9 sc along the edge. The next stitch you will do is the new

beginning of the round. If you use a stitch marker, move it

9 stitches forward. Then continue following the pattern.



Rnd 3: inc in next 2 st, sc in next 4 st, inc in next 4 st,

sc in next 4 st, inc in next 2 st [24]



Rnd 5: sc in next 5 st, earfan, sc in next 8 st, inc in next

4 st, sc in next 7 st, earfan, sc in next 6 st [62] (picture 1)

Rnd 6: sc in next 5 st, (white) earcluster, (orange) sc in

next 5 st, dec, sc in next 10 st, dec, sc in next 4 st, (white)

earcluster, (orange) sc in next 6 st [34] (picture 2, 3, 4, 5)


ADDITIONAL TERMINOLOGY IN THIS PATTERN:

Earcluster (made on earfan): Yarn over the hook 2

times, then insert the hook into the back loop of the

next stitch. Yarn over the hook and draw yarn through

the back loop (4 loops on hook). Yarn over the hook and

draw through two loops (3 loops on hook). Yarn over the

hook and draw through two loops (2 loops on hook).

Repeat 4 times on next 4 tr until you have 6 loops on

the hook. Skip the picot (you can fold it to the front so

it doesn't bother you), yarn over 2 times and make 5

more unfinished triple stitches into the back loops of

next 5 tr (11 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw the yarn

through all 11 loops on the hook. Make sure the picot

stitch (ch 3, slst in first ch) is on the right side of the

shape.

29

Rnd 8: sc in next 11 st, dec 2 times, inc in next 5 st,

dec 2 times, sc in next 10 st [35]


Rnd 10: sc in next 9 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 6 st, inc

in next st, (black) inc in next 2 st, (orange) inc in next

st, sc in next 6 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 10 st [47]

(picture 6)

Rnd 11: sc in next 21 st, (black) inc in next 4 st, sc in next

st, (orange) sc in next 21 st [51] (picture 7)

Rnd 12: sc in next 19 st, (white) BLO dec 6 times, (orange)

sc in next 20 st [45] (picture 8)

Rnd 13: sc in next 19 st, (white) sc6tog, (orange) sc in

next 20 st [40] (picture 9)


next 17 st [35]


next 14 st [30]

With black yarn, embroider baselines for eyes between

Round 9 and 10 (picture 12, 13) and insert the safety

eyes (picture 14, 15). stuff the head with fiberfill.

Rnd 16: sc in next 8 st, (white) sc4tog 4 times, (orange)


30

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

9 10 11

12 13 14 15

Rnd 17 – 21: sc in all 18 st [18]

Rnd 22: sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, sc in next 11 st [19]



Rnd 25: sc in next 8 st, 5 dc in next 2 st, sc in next 11 st [29]

Rnd 26: sc in next 12 st, 5 dc in next 2 st, sc in next 15 st [37]

Rnd 27: sc in next 15 st, 3 dc in next st, 5 dc in next 2 st,

3 dc in next st, sc in next 18 st [49]

Rnd 28: sc in next 21 st, 3 dc in next st, 5 dc in next 2 st,

3 dc in next st, sc in next 24 st [61]

31

Beginning of Rnd 17

End ofRnd 16additional 9 sc

In case you'd like to make a deer looking to the left.

Rnd 29: sc in next 27 st, skip next 4 st for the tail,


Rnd 30: sc in next 26 st, (white) 5 dc in next 2 st, (orange)

sc in next 29 st [65] (picture 16)

Rnd 31: sc in next 27 st, (white) sc3tog, 5 dc in next 2 st,

sc3tog, (orange) sc in next 30 st [69] (picture 17)

Rnd 32 – 34: sc in all 69 st [69]

Rnd 35: sc in next 60 st, skip next 8 st, sc in next st [61]

Stuff the neck with fiberfill.

Rnd 36: sc in next st, skip next 8 st, sc in next 11 st, skip

next 14 st, sc in next st, skip next 14 st, sc in next st,

(white) sc in next 7 st, sc4tog [22]

Stuff the body with fiberfill.

Rnd 37: sc4tog, sc in next 4 st, sc4tog 2 times, sc in next

6 st [13]

Fasten off, leaving a long white tail for sewing. Do not

close the hole yet.

TAIL (in orange yarn)

Attach orange yarn to the first skipped stitch of the tail

hole as shown in picture 18.

Rnd 1: crochet a round of 8 sc along the hole [8]

Rnd 2: (sc in next 2 st, inc in next 2 st) repeat 2 times [12]






The tail does not need to be stuffed. Fasten off, leaving a

long tail for sewing. Using your yarn needle, weave the

yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining stitch

and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.

BACK LEFT LEG (start in orange yarn)

Attach orange yarn to the first skipped stitch of the back

left leg hole as shown in picture 19.



Rnd 3: sc in all 16 st, dec [17]

Rnd 4 – 6: dec, sc in next 6 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next

5 st, dec [17]

Rnd 7: dec, sc in next 13 st, dec [15]

Rnd 8: dec, sc in next 13 st [14]

Stuff the leg with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.

16 17

1918

32

For the tail attach yarn here

Front legs attach yarn

here

For left leg attach yarn

here

For right leg attach yarn

here

Rnd 9: sc in next 6 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 4 st [12]

Rnd 10 – 14: sc in all 12 st [12]

Rnd 15 – 17: (white) sc in all 12 st [12]

Rnd 18 – 19: (black) sc in all 12 st [12]

Rnd 20: BLO dec 6 times [6]

Fasten off leaving a long tail for sewing. Using your yarn

needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of

each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in

the yarn end.

BACK RIGHT LEG (start in orange yarn)

Attach orange yarn to the first skipped stitch of the back

right leg hole as shown in picture 19.



Rnd 3: sc in next 14 st, dec 2 times [16]


dec 2 times [16]

Rnd 5: sc in next 6 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next 6 st, dec [17]

Rnd 6: dec, sc in next 5 st, inc in next 2 st, sc in next

6 st, dec [17]



Stuff the leg with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.


Rnd 10 – 14: sc in all 12 st [12]







in the yarn end.

20 21 22

33

FRONT LEG (make 2, start in orange yarn)

Attach orange yarn to the first skipped stitch of either

front leg hole as shown in picture 19.


Rnd 2 – 14: sc in all 12 st [12]



Stuff the leg with fiberfill.


Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Using your yarn

needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each

remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the

yarn end. Crochet the other front leg in the same way.

SPOTS (in white yarn)

Embroider white spots along the '5 dc in next st' sequences

from rounds 25–27 of the body pattern. Use the picture

on page 36 as a reference.

CLOSING

If necessary, add more stuffing through the hole in the

belly. Using the long white yarn tail, sew the hole shut. Sew

on stitch by stitch, through front loops only. (picture 22)

TIM THE BABY FAWN

HEAD AND BODY (start in orange yarn)





Rnd 4: sc in next 4 st, earfan, sc in next 5 st, inc in next

4 st, sc in next 5 st, earfan, sc in next 4 st [54]

Rnd 5: sc in next 4 st, (white) earcluster, (orange) sc in

next 3 st, dec, sc in next 8 st, dec, sc in next 3 st, (white)

earcluster, (orange) sc in next 4 st [26]

Rnd 6: sc in next 8 st, dec, inc in next 5 st, dec, sc in

next 9 st [29]



(black) inc in next 2 st, (orange) sc in next 5 st, inc in next

2 st, sc in next 9 st [39]

Rnd 9: sc in next 17 st, (black) inc in next st, sc in next

2 st, inc in next st, (orange) sc in next 18 st [41]

Rnd 10: sc in next 17 st, (white) BLO sc6tog, (orange)



next 15 st [31]

With black yarn, embroider baselines for eyes (between

round 6 and 7) and insert the safety eyes. (picture 24)


next 13 st [27]


next 11 st [23]

Rnd 14: sc in next 8 st, (white) dec, sc3tog, dec, (orange)



Stuff with fiberfill.

Rnd 16: sc in next 17 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [20]

Rnd 17: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, (sc in next 7 st, inc)

repeat 2 times, sc in last st [23]

Rnd 18: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st, sc in next 17 st,

inc in next st, sc in next st [25]

34


inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [27]






(inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times [34]

Rnd 23: (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times,

inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, skip next 6 st, sc in next st,

skip next 6 st, sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next

2 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [27]

Rnd 24: sc in next st, inc in next st, (sc in next 2 st, inc)

repeat 2 times, sc in next 13 st, inc in next st, sc in next

3 st, inc in next st, sc in next st [32]

Rnd 25: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, (sc in next 3 st,

inc) repeat 2 times, sc in next 7 st, dec, (sc in next 4 st,

inc) repeat 2 times, sc in next 2 st [36]

Rnd 26: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, (sc in next 4 st,

inc) repeat 2 times, sc in next 23 st [39]

Rnd 27: sc in next 18 st, 8 dc in next st, sc in next 5 st,

dec, sc in next 5 st, 8 dc in next st, sc in next 7 st [52]


Rnd 29: sc in next 24 st, dec, sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in

next 4 st, dec, sc in next 13 st [49]


next 2 st, dec, sc in next 13 st [46]

Rnd 31: sc in next 5 st, ch 2, skip next 2 st, sc in next 15

st, ch 3, skip next 3 st, sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 3 st,

ch 3, skip next 3 st, sc in next 10 st [45]









yarn end.

TAIL (in orange yarn)

Attach orange yarn to the first skipped stitch of the tail

hole as shown in picture 27. Continue following the

same pattern that was used for mom's tail.

23 24 25 26

27 28 29 30

35

For the tail attach yarn

here

For the right front leg attach yarn here

For the left front leg attach yarn here

For the right back leg

attach yarn here

For the left back leg attach yarn here Sew legs

together

FRONT LEG (make 2, start in orange yarn)


front leg hole as shown in picture 28.


Rnd 2 - 10: sc in next 10 st [10]

Rnd 11 - 13: (white) sc in next 10 st [10]

Rnd 14 - 15: (black) sc in next 10 st [10]






yarn end. Crochet the other front leg in the same way.

BACK LEG (make 2, start in orange yarn)


back leg hole as shown in picture 28.


Rnd 2 - 5: sc in next 10 st [10]

Rnd 6: (white) sc in next 10 st [10]

Rnd 7 - 8: sc in next 10 st [10]

Rnd 9: (black) sc in next 10 st [10]

Rnd 10: sc in next 10 st [10]






yarn end. Crochet the other back leg in the same way.

Optional: Sew all legs together as shown in picture 29.

SPOTS (in white yarn)

Embroider white spots as shown in picture 30.

36

Cheeky little Charly is always up to mischief. This morning she woke up, put on her

kitty onesie and hid in a bucket. As her mommy Maisy walked past, little Charly jumped out and

roared 'MEEEOOWW!!' as loudly as her squeaky voice would allow.

skill level

6” / 15 cm tall 4.25” / 11 cm tall

mom baby

design by LittleAquaGirl (Erinna Lee)

37

materials – mom

– Light worsted weight yarn in beige (30 g / 60 m),

light blue (30 g / 60 m) and pink (10 g / 20 m)

– Light Fingering weight yarn in black (leftover)

and pink (leftover)

– 2.5 mm crochet hook

– Pink felt

materials – baby

– Light fingering weight yarn in orange (25 g /

110 m), light blue (leftover), pink (10 g / 45 m),

Ecru (10 g / 45 m), black (leftover)

– 2.0 mm crochet hook

– Black metal brads

both


– Yarn needle

– Sewing pins

– Stitch markers

– Yarn glue

MOMMY MOUSE MAISY

NOTE: Use a 2.5 mm hook and light worsted weight yarn.













Rnd 12 – 16: sc in all 36 st [36]





Stuff the head with fiberfill.





remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn

end. With pink yarn, embroider the nose across round 1

and 2 with the widest part of the nose 3 st apart. With black

yarn, embroider the eyes. Each eye should start between

round 8 and 9 and end between round 11 and 12. The start

point of the two eyes should be 9 stitches apart. (picture 1)

LEG (make 2, start with beige yarn)

Ch 5. Stitches are worked around both sides of the foun-

dation chain.

Rnd 1: start in the second ch from the hook, sc in next

3 st, 3 sc in next st. Continue on the other side of the

foundation chain, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st [10]

Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 2 st, inc in next 3 st,


Rnd 3: BLO sc in all 16 st [16]



Rnd 6: sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 4 st [9]


Change to light blue yarn.


Slst in next st. Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.

Mark the second stitch counting back from the slst.

(indicated blue in picture 2) Repeat rounds 1 to 12 for the

second leg. Crochet another 3 sc at the end of round 12.

Do not fasten off.

BODY (in light blue yarn)

Continuing from the second (right) leg.

Rnd 1: ch 1, sc in the first st after the marked st on the

first leg. Mark this new st you just made (indicated green

38

in picture 2), this will be the starting stitch of the rounds

to follow. Sc in next 8 st. Work a sc into the chain st, sc in

next 9 st on the second leg, sc into the chain st [20]


Stuff the legs with fiberfill.




Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 36 st [36]

Rnd 8: BLO (sc in next 10 st, dec) repeat 3 times [33]















Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Sew the body between round 10 and 14 of the head.

(picture 3) Cut out two triangular pieces of pink felt and

glue them on as a collar for mommy Maisy’s dress.

SKIRT (start in light blue yarn)

Keep the legs directed away from you while you crochet

the skirt, so the pretty side of your crochetwork will

face outward. Join light blue yarn in the first front loop

stitch of round 8 of the body.

Rnd 1: FLO dc inc in all 36 st [72]

Rnd 2: (dc inc in next st, dc in next st) repeat 36 times [108]

Change to pink yarn.


Slst in next st. Fasten off, weave in the loose yarn ends.

1

39

Rnd 11

Rnd 8

2 3

Rnd 10

Rnd 14

last slst of first leg

last sc of second leg

FRONT

BACK

19201

23

4

5

6

7 8

910 11

12 13

14

15

16

1718

Start of Rnd 1 of

bodych

2nd (right) leg1st (left) leg

5 6

ARM (make 2, start in beige yarn)






Rnd 16: ch 2, (3 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st) repeat

4 times [20]



Stuff the arm with fiberfill. Flatten the piece.

Sc across both sides of the piece to close the opening.


Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the arms

to each side of the body between round 20 and 21.

INNER EAR (make 2, in pink yarn)




Slst in next st. Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

OUTER EAR (make 2, in beige yarn)




Align one inner ear with an outer ear, the backs facing

each other.

Rnd 4: With the outer ear facing you, ch 1, sc in next

18 st through both pieces at once [18] (picture 4)

Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing

Pin the ears to the head between round 16 and 17, about

7 st apart. Sew the ears to the head with 4 stitches only.

BABY CHARLY MOUSE

NOTE: Unless otherwise specified, all parts of baby

Charly are identical to those of mommy Maisy, though

crocheted with light fingering weight yarn and a 2 mm

crochet hook.


Follow the pattern for mommy Maisy’s head. Embroi-

der the nose and eyes as mentioned below.

– Using pink yarn, stitch the nose over rounds 1 and 2

with the widest part of the nose 2 stitches apart.

– Embroider the eyes with black yarn. Each eye should

start between rounds 7 and 8 and end between

rounds 10 and 11. The starting point of the two eyes

should be 8 stitches apart. (picture 5)

– Sew rounds 11 to 16 of the head to the body.

SKIRT (start in orange yarn)

Keep the legs directed away from you while you crochet

the skirt, so the pretty side of your crochetwork will face

outward. Join orange yarn in the first front loop stitch of

round 8 of the body.

Rnd 1: FLO dc inc in all 36 st [72]



Slst in next st and fasten off. Weave in the loose yarn

ends.

4

40

Rnd 10

Rnd 7

Rnd 10

7

ARM (make two, start in beige yarn)




Change to orange yarn.


Stuff the arm with fiberfill. Flatten the piece. Sc across

both sides of the piece to close the opening.


Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the arms

to each side of the body between rounds 20 and 21.

KITTY HOODIE (in orange yarn)







Rnd 7: (sc in next 10 st, dec] repeat 3 times [33]

Rnd 8: sc in next 6 st, ch 5 and skip next 5 st, sc in next

7 st, ch 5 and skip next 5 st, sc in next 6 st [29]

We continue crocheting in rows.

Row 9 – 13: ch 1, turn, start in second ch from hook,


Finish with ch 30 to create one tie for the hoodie. To create

the second tie, pull up a loop of orange yarn on the other

side of the hoodie and ch 30. Weave in the yarn ends.

KITTY EARS FOR HOODIE (in orange yarn)






Flatten the piece. Sc across both sides of the piece to

close the opening.



FACE OF KITTY HOODIE

Sew the face of the kitty hoodie before attaching baby

Charly’s ears (picture 6, 7)

– Insert black metal brads between rounds 10 and 11,

5 stitches apart.

– With black yarn, sew eyebrows 1 round above each eye.

– Sew two parallel whiskers with black yarn, each 2

stitches in length, between rounds 11 and 12, and

rounds 12 and 13.

– Embroider nose with pink yarn across round 11.

– Sew on the orange ears between rounds 9 and 10,

12 stitches apart.

– Put the kitty hoodie onto baby Charly’s head and tie

it on with a bow.

– Sew baby Charly’s ears on through the gaps in her

hoodie. Sew 3 stitches of each ear to the head.

41

July is the sweetest mom any baby kangaroo could ever wish for. She is always joyful, energetic

and she loves her baby daughter. Anytime little Jumpy craves a warm hug from mom,

she takes her in her arms and squeezes her tight.

skill level

12” / 30 cm tall 4.5” / 12 cm tall

mom baby

42

design by Kamlin Patterns

materials – mom

– Fingering weight yarn in brown (80 g / 230 m)

beige (10 g / 30 m), black (leftover)


– Bow for decoration

materials – baby

– Fingering weight yarn in brown (20 g / 60 m)

beige (5 g / 15 m), black (leftover)

– Safety eyes (4.5 mm)

– Button for decoration

both

– Size 1.75 mm crochet hook

– Embroidery thread in black

– Yarn needle

– Stitch marker


MOM KANGAROO

HEAD (in brown yarn)







Rnd 7 – 12: sc in all 36 st [36]




Rnd 16 – 17: sc in all 54 st [54]


Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 60 st [60]


Rnd 22 – 28: sc in all 66 st [66]

Insert 10 mm safety eyes between rounds 15 and 16,

with an interspace of 5 stitches. Using black embroidery

thread, embroider an eyebrow above each eye.






Stuff with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.








of each remaining stitch and pull it tight, closing off the

back of the head. Weave in the yarn end. (picture 1)

NOSE (in black yarn)


dation chain.

Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 4 st, 3 sc

in last st. Continue on the other side of the foundation

chain, sc in next 3 st, inc in last st [12]

Rnd 2: (sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next st) repeat 2 times [16]

Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 16 st [16]

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff the nose with

fiberfill. Sew the nose to the head between rounds 6 and

8 (count 6 rounds down from the eyes). Using black em-

broidery thread, sew a vertical line starting at the nose,

down over the magic ring to round 11. Sew a smiling

mouth over round 11. (picture 2)

EAR (make 2, in brown yarn)








Rnd 8 – 12: sc in all 24 st [24]

43





Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the

ears, they do not need to be stuffed (picture 3). Pinch

the ears together at the bottom end sew them together

with one stitch. Now sew the ears to the head over

rounds 25 to 27 with an interspace of about 18 stitches.

Sew a small bow to one ear.

BODY (in brown yarn)

Starting at the bottom.
















Rnd 16 – 25: sc in all 90 st [90]












Rnd 37 – 38: sc in all 48 st [48]


Rnd 40 – 41: sc in all 42 st [42]


Stuff the body with fiberfill and continue stuffing as

you go. Don't overstuff. If you do, the baby might not

fit in the pouch.

Rnd 43 – 44: sc in all 36 st [36]


Rnd 46 – 47: sc in all 30 st [30]


Rnd 49 – 50: sc in all 24 st [24]


Rnd 52 – 55: sc in all 18 st [18]



Fasten off, weave in the yarn ends. Sew rounds 20 to 27

of the head to the body.

BELLY PATCH (in beige yarn)


foundation chain.

1 2 4

44

3

Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 19 st,

3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the foun-

dation chain, sc in next 18 st, inc in last st [42]


Rnd 3: inc, sc in next 18 st, inc in next 5 st, sc in next

18 st, inc in next 4 st [56]


Rnd 5: sc in next 12 st, dc in next 9 st, dc inc in next 10

st, dc in next 9 st, sc in next 16 st [66]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the patch

to the body starting 6 rounds below the neck.

POUCH (in brown yarn)

Ch 19. We crochet in rows.

Row 1: start in the second chain from hook, sc in all

18 st, ch 1, turn [18]

Row 2: inc, sc in next 16 st, inc in the last st, ch 1, turn [20]











Row 13 – 18: sc in all 40 st, ch 1, turn [40]

Row 19: sc in all 40 st [40]

Crochet a finishing round of sc, one sc stitch in each

row end, 3 sc in the corners. (picture 4)


Pin the pouch to the body starting 5 rounds below the

belly patch. Make sure you make it roomy enough for

baby kangaroo to fit in. Sew the pouch to the body with

the leftover yarn tail.

ARM (make 2, in brown yarn)




Rnd 4 – 34: sc in all 18 st [18]


Stuff the arm with fiberfill.





top of the arm. Weave in the yarn end.

We now attach the arms, about 4 rounds below the neck

edge. Thread your yarn needle with a long piece of brown

yarn. Insert it into the first arm, through the body and

out through the second arm. Return through the second

arm and through the body, back to the starting point.

Repeat if necessary. Pull the yarn tight and fasten off.

45

FOOT (make 2, in brown yarn)


foundation chain.



dation chain, sc in next 13 st, inc in last st [32]


Rnd 3 – 13: sc in all 36 st [36]

Rnd 14: (sc in next 7, dec) repeat 4 times [32]

Rnd 15 – 17: sc in all 32 st [32]


Rnd 19 – 21: sc in all 28 st [28]

46



Rnd 23 – 25: sc in all 24 st [24]


Rnd 27 – 29: sc in all 20 st [20]







back of the foot. Weave in the yarn end.

Using black embroidery thread, sew 2 long stitches

through each foot to make toes. Sew rounds 14 to 25

of the top side of the feet to the body.

TAIL (in brown yarn)





Rnd 17 – 31: sc in all 12 st [12]













Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew on the

kangaroo's tail after completing the baby to ensure

the mom kangaroo can balance properly and won't tip

forwards with the baby in her pouch.

JUMPY THE BABY KANGAROO

HEAD (in brown yarn)




Rnd 4 – 6: sc in all 18 st [18]




Rnd 10 – 12: sc in all 36 st [36]



Insert the 4.5 mm safety eyes between rounds 7 and 8,

with an interspace of 3 stitches.








back of the head. Weave in the yarn end. (picture 5)

47

Using black embroidery thread, sew a nose over

rounds 2 to 4. Sew a vertical line starting at the tip of

the nose downward to round 2. Sew a smiling mouth

over round 2. (picture 6)

EAR (make 2, in brown yarn)


Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in the first st,

ch 1, turn [1]

Row 2: 3 sc in the first st, ch 1, turn [3]

Row 3: inc, sc, inc in the last st, ch 1, turn [5]


Row 5: inc, sc in next 5 st, inc in the last st [9]

Crochet a finishing round of sc around the ear; one sc

stitch in each row end, 3 sc in the corners (picture 7).

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Pinch the ears

together at the bottom and sew them together with

one stitch. Sew the ears to the head over rounds 12 to

14 with an interspace of about 5 stitches (picture 8).

Sew a small button to one ear.

BODY (in brown yarn)

Starting at the bottom.








Rnd 8 – 10: sc in all 42 st [42]




Rnd 14 – 15: sc in all 30 st [30]


Rnd 17 – 18: sc in all 24 st [24]


Rnd 20 – 21: sc in all 18 st [18]





Fasten off, weave in the yarn ends. Sew rounds 9 to 12 of

the head to the body.

BELLY PATCH (in beige yarn)


dation chain.



chain, sc in next 6 st, inc in last st [18]


48

49


Sew the belly patch to the body.

POUCH (in brown yarn)


Row 1: start in the second ch from hook, sc in all 6 st,

ch 1, turn [6]

Row 2: inc, sc in next 4 st, inc in last st, ch 1, turn [8]





Crochet a finishing round of sc around the pouch;

one sc stitch in each row end, 3 sc in the corners.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the pouch

to the kangaroo’s body, starting about one row under

the belly patch.

ARM (make 2, in brown yarn)



Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 10 st [10]

Rnd 6: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 3 times, sc in last st [7]


Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuffing the

arms is optional, in the example they are not stuffed. Sew

the arms to the body 1 round below the base of the head.

FOOT (make 2, in brown yarn)



5 6

Rnd 3 – 5: sc in all 10 st [10]

Rnd 6: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 3 times, sc in last st [7]


Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. The feet do not

need to be stuffed. Sew the feet to the body between

rounds 4 and 5.

TAIL (in brown yarn)






Stuff the tail lightly with fiberfill. Sew the tail to the

kangaroo’s bottom.

7 8

Lulu may not be the fastest or most active mother around but she loves her baby like no other.

These two do everything together, from eating leaves and taking naps to just 'hanging around'.

As long as they are together they're as happy as can be.

skill level

9.5” / 24 cm long 4.5” / 11.5 cm long

mom baby

50

design by MEVVSAN

materials – mom

– Worsted weight yarn in light brown (90 g / 180 m),

dark brown (a leftover) and beige (5 g / 10 m)


– Two buttons (6 mm)

materials – baby

– Worsted weight yarn in light brown (25 g / 45 m),

dark brown (a leftover) and beige (5 g / 5 m)


both

– Size 2.75 mm / C-2 crochet hook


– Brown sewing thread

– Yarn needle

51

MAMA SLOTH LULU

HEAD (in light brown yarn)







Rnd 7 – 16: sc in all 48 st [48]









remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. (picture 1)

FACE PATCH (in beige yarn)


dation chain.

Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, inc in first st, sc in

next 5 st, 4 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the

foundation ch, sc in next 5 st, inc in last st [18]

Rnd 2: hdc inc in next 2 st, hdc in next st, sc in next 3 st,

hdc in next st, hdc inc in next 4 st, hdc in next 5 st, hdc

inc in last 2 st [26]

Rnd 3: dc inc in next 3 st, hdc in next 2 st, sc in next 3

st, hdc in next 2 st, dc inc in next 6 st, hdc in next 7 st,

dc inc in next 3 st [38]


(picture 2)

EYE MARKING (make 2, in dark brown yarn)


Before closing the magic ring, place the safety eye

inside and tighten the magic ring around it. Do not affix

the backings yet.


Ch 4 (picture 3), hdc in second ch from hook, hdc in next

2 ch, slst back in first st of round 2. (picture 4)

1 2 3 4

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert the safety

eyes between rounds 2 and 3 on the face patch. Affix the

backs of the safety eyes and sew the face patch to the head.

The curved part of the patch should be placed at the chin

area of the head (picture 5). Once attached use the leftover

yarn tails from the eye markings to sew them to the head.

NOSE (in dark brown yarn)



Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff

the nose with fiberfill. Sew the nose to the face in be-

tween the eyes. (picture 5)

BODY (in light brown yarn)









Rnd 9 – 13: sc in all 56 st [56]















Rnd 27 – 28: sc in all 28 st [28] (Fig. 6)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the body

to the head. (picture 6)

ARM (make 2, in light brown yarn)




Rnd 4 – 7: sc in all 14 st [14]

Stuff lightly with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.


Rnd 9 – 12: sc in all 15 st [15]


Rnd 14 – 16: sc in all 16 st [16]


Rnd 18 – 20: sc in all 17 st [17]


Rnd 22 – 28: sc in all 18 st [18]





of each remaining st and pull it tight to close. Sew the

arms to the body. (picture 7, 8)

52

5 6 7 8

LEG (make 2, in light brown yarn)




Rnd 4 – 7: sc in all 14 st [14]


Stuff lightly with fiberfill and continue stuffing as

you go.

Rnd 9 – 12: sc in all 15 st [15]


Rnd 14 – 16: sc in all 16 st [16]


Rnd 18 – 19: sc in all 17 st [17]


Rnd 21 – 22: sc in all 18 st [18]







53






of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Sew

the legs to the body.

TAIL (in light brown yarn)






Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Lightly stuff the

tail and sew it directly over the magic ring of the body.

CLAW (make 4, in beige yarn)

(Ch 5, start in second ch from hook, sc in next 4 st)

repeat 3 times for a total of 3 toes. (picture 9, 10)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the claws

to the top of the arms and feet. (picture 11)

54

BABY SLOTH







Rnd 6 – 10: sc in all 30 st [30]






Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Using your yarn needle,

weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each remaining

stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end.

FACE PATCH (in beige yarn)


foundation chain.

Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, inc in the first st,

9 10 11 12

13 14 15 16

55

sc in next 3 st, 4 sc in last st. Continue on the other side

of the foundation ch, sc in next 3 st, inc in last st [14]

Rnd 2: hdc inc in first 2 st, sc in next 3 st, hdc inc in next

4 st, hdc in next 3 st, hdc inc in last 2 st [22]

Slst in next st. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

(picture 12)

EYE MARKING (make 2, in dark brown)


Before closing the magic ring, place the safety eye

inside and tighten the magic ring around it. Do not affix

the backings yet.

Rnd 2: ch 3, sc in second ch from hook, sc in next st,

slst in the first sc in the magic ring.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert the eyes

in round 2 of the face patch. Affix the backings to the

safety eyes and embroider a small brown nose between

the eyes.

Use the face patch’s leftover yarn tail to sew it to the

head, making sure the curved part is facing downwards

where the chin area will be. (picture 13)

Use the yarn ends from the eye markings to sew them to

the face.






Rnd 5 – 7: sc in all 24 st [24]







to the head. (picture 14)

ARM AND LEG (make 4, in light brown yarn)





the arms and legs. Sew them to the body. Make sure the

head is facing the side. (picture 15)

CLAW (make 4, in beige yarn)

(Ch 3, slst in second ch from hook, slst in next st) repeat

3 times for a total of 3 fingers.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the claws

to the top of each arm and leg. (picture 16)


Ch 3.

Row 1: start in second ch from hoook, hdc in next 2 st [2]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the tail to

the body where the magic ring is.

BUTTONS

If you would like mother sloth to hang from objects you

can sew a button to one of the front and back legs. On

the opposite legs, pull up a loop of light brown yarn,

ch 4 and slst back into the same spot on the foot. Fasten

off and weave in the yarn ends. Button up the legs.

Rosy never misses a chance to read a bedtime story to her sons since she knows they always sleep

easier when dreaming of the adventures of brave dino knights and dino princesses. No matter

how busy she is, she always finds the time to read at least one tale to them every night.

skill level

7” / 18 cm tall 3” / 8 cm tall

mom baby

56

design by LIA ARJONO

materials – mom

– Sport weight yarn in light green (40 g / 100 m),

yellow (5 g / 10 m), orange (leftover), white

(5 g / 10 m), black (leftover), blue (leftover)

and pink (leftover)


– Craft felt in yellow

– Yarn glue

materials – baby

– Sport weight yarn in dark green (15 g / 35 m),

yellow (leftover), blue (leftover), pink (leftover),

white (leftover), black (leftover)

both

– Size 2.25 mm / B-1 crochet hook


– Yarn needle

– Sewing thread in black

– Sewing pins

57

ROSY, MAMA T-REX

HEAD (in light green yarn)

Start at the muzzle.



Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 6 times [18]











Rnd 14: FLO dec 10 times, sc in next 11 st through both

loops, FLO dec 10 times, sc in next 12 st through both

loops [43]

Rnd 15 – 20: sc in all 43 st [43]

Rnd 21: (sc in next 6 st, dec) repeat 5 times, sc in next

3 st [38]


3 st [33]


3 st [28]


Rnd 25 – 26: sc in all 34 st [34]

Rnd 27: hdc in next 5 st, sc in next 18 st, hdc in next

11 st [34]

Stuff the head firmly and continue stuffing as you go.

Rnd 28: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 11 times, sc in next st [23]


Rnd 30: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 7 times, sc in next

2 st [16]




needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of

each remaining stitch and pull it tight, closing off the

back of the head. Weave in the yarn end. From round 24

onwards you will have gradually created a little lump. This

lump should be facing downwards - you will insert it into

the body when you attach the body to the head.

EYEBALL (make 2, in white yarn)






Rnd 6: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 3 times, sc in next 9 st [15]

Insert the safety eyes into the center of the eyeball.

Stuff the eyeball lightly.

Ch 1, press both sides of the eyeball together so that the

second stitch of round 6 lines up with the last stitch of

round 6 (skip the first stitch of round 6), slst through

both layers to the end. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for

sewing. With the curved side facing upwards, sew the

eyeball to the head between round 23 and round 27


EYELID (make 2, in light green yarn)







Flatten the eyelid. Do not stuff. Ch 1.

Rnd 7: sc through both layers in all 15 st [15]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. With the curved

side facing upwards, sew the eyelid to the head right

behind the eyeball.

NOSTRIL (make 2, in light green yarn)



Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Flatten the nostrils,

but do not sew them together. The nostrils do not need

to be stuffed. Sew the nostrils to the head between

round 12 and 13 with an interspace of 12 stitches. Make

sure the open side faces forward. (picture 1)

MOUTH

Using black yarn, embroider the mouth crossing round

18 from one side to the other. Count 4 rounds below the

starting magic ring of the head; this is the middle lower

point of the mouth.

TOOTH (make 2, in white yarn)


Row 1: start in second ch from hook, inc, ch 1, turn [2]

Row 2: sc in next st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [3]

Row 3: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st [4]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the teeth

to the head right above the black line of the mouth

between rounds 7 and 10.

BIGGER TOOTH (make 2, in white yarn)


Row 1: start in second ch from hook, inc, ch 1, turn [2]

Row 2: sc in next st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [3]

Row 3: sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [4]

Row 4: sc in next 3 st, inc in next st [5]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the teeth

to the head right above the black line of the mouth

between rounds 10 and 14.

BODY (in light green yarn)









Rnd 9 – 20: sc in all 48 st [48]








10 st [28]


next 10 st [26]


Stuff the body firmly and continue stuffing as you go.

58

1

Rnd 30 – 41: sc in all 24 st [24]

Rnd 42: sc in next 9 st, turn [9] Do not finish this round.

We continue crocheting in rows.

Row 43: skip first st, sc in next 6 st, dec 2 times, sc in

next 6 st, turn [14]

Row 44: skip first st, sc in next 11 st, dec [12]


to the head between rounds 23 and 30. Make sure the

rounded side (belly) faces front.

TUMMY PATCH (in yellow yarn)


Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 10 st,

ch 1, turn [10]

Row 2: inc in next st, sc in next 8 st, inc in next st,

ch 1, turn [12]


ch 1, turn [14]


ch 1, turn [16]


ch 1, turn [18]















Crochet a finishing round around the tummy patch, one

slst in each row end. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for

sewing. Sew the edges of the patch to the belly with the

straight edge at the neck and the curved edge at the bottom.

59

SECOND FINGER (make 1 for each hand,

2 pieces in total, in light green yarn)






Fasten off, weave in the yarn end. Stuff the finger firmly.

FIRST & THIRD FINGER (make 2 for each hand,

4 pieces in total, in light green yarn)





Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends on 2 fingers. These

are the 'third fingers'. Do not fasten off on the other 2

fingers. These are the 'first fingers'. Continue working on

these first fingers to make a hand. Stuff the fingers firmly.

HAND AND ARM (make 2, in light green yarn)

Continue from first finger.

Rnd 1: sc in next 3 st of the first finger, sc in next 3 st of

the second finger, sc in all 6 st of the third finger, sc in

next 3 st of the second finger, sc in the last 3 remaining

st of the first finger [18]

Rnd 2 – 3: sc in all 18 st [18]



Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 10 st [10]

Stuff the hand firmly and continue stuffing as you go.





Rnd 12 – 13: sc in all 16 st [16]







remaining stitch and pull it tight, closing off the top of the

arm. Weave in the yarn tail on the first arm. On the second

arm, weave this yarn tail through the arm to the spot

where you would like the arm to be attached to the body.

Count 5 rounds down from the top of the arm; this is the

spot where the yarn goes through (a). Sew the arms to

the sides of the body following the diagram (picture 2).

Start at position (a), insert your needle in the body 14

rounds below the neck. Go through the body, coming out

on the other side, 14 rounds below the neck, go through

the left arm, 5 rounds down from the top of the arm,

coming out on the other side, insert your needle back

into the arm and go through the body once more. When

back at the starting position (a) go through the right

arm, out on the other side and back into the arm. Make a

knot at position (a) and weave in the yarn end. To avoid

flattening the tops of the arms, make sure the yarn goes

in between stitches at point (b) and (c).

LEG (make 2, start in orange yarn)





Rnd 5: (skip 1 st, 2 dc + tc + 2 dc in next st, skip 1 st,

sc in next st) repeat 3 times, change to light green yarn,


Rnd 6: BLO sc in next 42 st [42]

Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 42 st [42]

Rnd 9: (dc5tog, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, dc5tog,

(sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 2 times, sc in next st, (dec,

60

acb

2

sc in next 4 st) repeat 2 times [26]


Rnd 11: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 2 times, sc in next st,

(sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat 2 times, sc in next 5 st [22]

Rnd 12 – 14: sc in all 22 st [22]

Rnd 15: dec, sc in next st, dec, sc in next 17 st [20]

Rnd 16: dec 3 times, sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next 6 st [16]

Rnd 17: inc 3 times, sc in next 13 st [19]

Stuff the leg firmly and continue stuffing as you go.

Rnd 18: (sc in next st, inc in next st) repeat 3 times,


Rnd 19 – 20: sc in all 22 st [22]

Rnd 21: (dec, sc in next 2 st) repeat 5 times, dec [16]


Rnd 23: (dec, sc in next st) repeat 5 times, sc in next st [11]


Rnd 25: dec 5 times, sc in last st [6]


yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the front loop of

each remaining stitch and pull it tight, closing off the top

of the leg. Weave in the yarn end on the first leg. On the

second leg you weave this yarn tail through the leg to the

spot where you would like the leg to be attached to the

body. Count 4 rounds down from the top of the leg; this is

the spot where the yarn will go through. Sew the legs to

the sides of the body between rounds 14 and 15 follow-

ing the same method for attaching the arms (picture 2).

TAIL (in light green yarn)












Rnd 12: sc in next 8 st, inc 3 times, sc in next 7 st [21]













Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the end of

the tail with a bit of fiberfill and gradually stuff the entire

61

piece firmly. Shape the end of the tail to make it pointy.

Sew the tail to the body between rounds 7 and 22.

BOOK COVER (make 2, in blue yarn)


Row 1: Start in second ch from hook, sc in next 8 st,

ch 1, turn [8]



Fasten off, weave in the yarn end. Block before assembling.

BOOK PAPER (in white yarn)



ch 1, turn [8]



Fasten off, weave in the yarn end. Block before assembling.

ASSEMBLING THE BOOK

– Hold the two pieces of the book cover together with the

chain edge from the last round on the top and facing

outwards (picture 3). Pull up a loop of pink yarn at the

end of row 9 through both layers (picture 4). Making

sure all stitches go through both layers, ch 1, sc in

same st as join, sc in each of next 7 row ends.

– Using black sewing thread, embroider a word on the

cover. Weave in the yarn ends. (picture 5)

– Draw a small half moon on paper that would fit on the

front cover of the book. Cut out the pattern when you are

satisfied with the sizing then pin the template and a

piece of felt together. Carefully cut the felt along the

template’s edge then attach the felt with yarn glue.

– Using white yarn, sew the middle of the book paper

at row 6 to the middle of the inside of the book cover.

Weave in the yarn end. (picture 6)

Sew the finished book to the hand. Make a stitch through

the right and left hand sides of the book to the hands.

BABY T-REX

HEAD (in dark green yarn)

Start at the muzzle.










Rnd 10: FLO dec 6 times, sc in next 7 st through both loops,

FLO dec 6 times, sc in next 8 st through both loops [27]

Rnd 11 – 13: sc in all 27 st [27]

Rnd 14: sc in next 4 st, dec, (sc in next 5 st, dec) repeat

3 times [23]


Rnd 16 – 17: sc in all 27 st [27]

Rnd 18: hdc in next 5 st, sc in next 14 st, hdc in next 8 st [27]


62

3 4 65

Stuff the head firmly and continue stuffing as you go.







back of the head. Weave in the yarn end.

EYEBALL (make 2, in white yarn)






Rnd 6: sc in next st, dec, sc in next 7 st [9]

Using black yarn, embroider the eye crossing round 2

from one side to the other. Count 1 round below the

magic ring of the eyeball; this is the middle lower point

of the eye. (picture 7, 8) Stuff the eyeball lightly.

Ch 1, press both sides of the eyeball together so that the

second stitch of round 6 lines up with the last stitch of

round 6 (we skip the first stitch of round 6) (picture 9),

slst through both layers to the end (picture 10). Fasten

off, leaving a long tail for sewing. With the curved side

facing upwards, sew the eyeballs to the head between

rounds 15 and 18 with an interspace of 2 stitches.

63

7 8 109

last stitch

second stitch

skip first stitch

EYELID (make 2, in dark green yarn)


Row 1: start in second ch from hook, 4 sc in next st,

ch 1, turn [4]


Row 3: (sc in next st, inc) repeat 4 times, ch 1, turn [12]



Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. With the

curved side facing upwards, sew the eyelid to the head

right behind the eyeball.

NOSTRIL (make 2, in dark green yarn)



Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff.

Flatten the nostrils. Sew the nostrils to the head be-

tween rounds 6 and 7 with an interspace of 6 stitches.

MOUTH

Using black yarn, embroider the mouth crossing round

12 from one side to the other. Count 2 rounds below the

starting magic ring of the head; this is the middle lower

point of the mouth.

BODY (in dark green yarn)






Rnd 6 – 10: sc in all 30 st [30]






Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body

firmly. Sew the body to the head between rounds 14

and 20. Make sure the rounded side (belly) is facing

the front.

ARM (make 2, in dark green yarn)



Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 12 st [12]



Stuff the arm lightly and continue stuffing as you go.





remaining stitch and pull it tight, closing off the top of the

arm. Weave in the yarn tail on the first arm. On the second

arm, weave the yarn tail through the arm to the spot

where you would like the arm to be attached to the body.

Count 2 rounds down from the top of the arm; this is the

spot where the yarn goes through. Sew the arms to the

sides of the body, about 2 rounds below the neck, follow-

ing the same method for attaching the arms. (picture 2)

LEG (make 2, in dark green yarn)


dation chain.

Rnd 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in next 2 st, inc in

next st. We continue on the other side of the foundation

chain, sc in next 2 st, inc in next st [8]

Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next st, inc 3 times, sc in next

st, inc 2 times [14]


64


Rnd 5: dec, sc in next 3 st, dec 2 times, sc in next 3 st,

dec [10]

Rnd 6: sc in next 4 st, sc3tog, sc in next 3 st [8]


Stuff the leg lightly and continue stuffing as you go.


Rnd 9: sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in

next st, sc in next 2 st [11]


Rnd 11: sc in next st, dec 5 times [6]





top of the leg. Weave in the yarn end on the first leg. On

the second leg, weave this yarn tail through the leg to the

spot where you would like the leg to be attached to the

body: count 3 rounds down from the top of the leg, this is

the spot where the yarn goes through. Sew the legs to the

sides of the body between rounds 5 and 6 following the

same method for attaching the arms. (picture 2)

TAIL (in dark green yarn)










Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the end of

the tail with a small amount of fiberfill and gradually stuff

the entire piece firmly. Shape the end of the tail to make it

pointy. Sew the tail to the body between rounds 5 and 10.

PACIFIER PART 1 (in yellow yarn)




Stuff firmly and continue stuffing as you go.



PACIFIER PART 2 (make 2, in blue yarn)



Fasten off and weave in the yarn end on the first piece.

Sew the yellow piece to the center of this piece (picture 11).

Do not fasten off the yarn tail on the second piece. Con-

tinue working on this piece to join the two blue pieces

together.

– Hold the two blue pieces together. Continue from the

last stitch, sc in all 12 st through both layers (picture 12).

Fasten off and weave in the yarn end.

– Pull up a loop of pink yarn in any stitch on the edge of the

blue piece, ch 28 (picture 13). Put the chains around the

neck, then sc to the blue piece with an interspace of 4

stitches from the first loop (picture 14). Make sure the

yellow piece faces front. Weave in the yarn ends.

11 12 1413

65

Dashy, the beagle dog, is a new dad. He used to struggle with his crying puppy, but now

he's an expert at soothing him. Whenever he hears his little boy starting to whine he puts him

in his carrier and walks a few blocks until he falls asleep.

skill level

12” / 30 cm tall 3” / 8 cm tall

dad baby

66

design by ENNA DESIGN (EMI KANESADA)

materials – dad

– Worsted weight yarn in white (35 g / 70 m),

black (60 g / 120 m), brown (15 g / 30 m) and

pink (leftover)

– Size 4 mm / G-6 crochet hook


– Triangular safety nose (28 mm)

materials – baby + carrier

– Fingering weight yarn in white (5 g / 15 m),

black (10 g / 40 m), brown (5 g / 15 m), blue

(5 g / 15 m) and yellow (leftover)




both


– Yarn needle

– Stitch marker

– Yarn glue

67

NOTE: HANDLING YARN WHEN CHANGING COLOR:

In this project, because you continually switch between

two or more colors of yarn, handling of the yarns may be a

little complicated. Therefore we recommend the following

two methods for color change

– Carry the unused yarn back along the top of the round you're

going to work unless otherwise noted; For example, the

black yarn not in use is carried back along the top of the

round and brought back to the beginning of the next color

change you are going to work (picture 1). Then, crochet over

the yarn you carried back to hide it in the fabric. (picture 2 - 4)

– When you use the same color twice in different places in the

same round, use a different thread for each color change

(picture 5). However, you do not need to have two separate

balls of yarn. You can use the second end of the same ball of

yarn. Every ball of yarn has two ends; the end from the center

and the other end from the outside. (picture 6)

– When you work on the first rounds of the head with black

yarn, you drop the black yarn to the back of the brown part

(picture 7). Picture 8 shows the yarn crossing on the wrong

side. It is important to maintain the correct yarn tension so

that the carried yarn stays smoothly along the inner surface

of the work. If you pull the carried yarn too tight, the work

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

will pucker up. If you leave it too loose, the stitches will be

loosened and you will get an uneven finish.

PAPA BEAGLE DASHY

NOTE: Use a 4 mm hook and worsted weight yarn.

HEAD (start in black yarn)









Starting at the next round, we will crochet the head

with alternating yarns. The color you work with is

indicated before each line. Please note the instructions

for color changes on page 67.

Rnd 9: (black) (sc in next 7 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times,

(brown) sc in next 2 st,

(black) sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st,

(brown) sc in next 2 st, (picture 5)

(black) (inc in next st, sc in next 7 st) repeat 2 times,


Rnd 10: (black) sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next 8 st,

inc in next st, sc in next 3 st,


(black) inc in next st, sc in next 7 st, inc in next st,




Rnd 11: (black) sc in next 18 st,


(black) sc in next 10 st,


(black) sc in next 20 st [60]








Drop the second brown yarn, and fasten off, weave in

the yarn end securely. The black yarn is carried along

the round you're going to work. (picture 1)














Rnd 18: (black) sc in next 8 st, dec, sc in next 5 st,

(brown) sc in next 3 st, dec, (sc in next 8 st, dec) repeat

2 times, sc in next 5 st,

(black) sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 8 st, dec [54]

Rnd 19: (black) sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 7 st, dec,

sc in next st,

(brown) sc in next 6 st, dec, (sc in next 7 st, dec) repeat

2 times,

(black) sc in next 7 st, dec, sc in next 4 st [48]


(brown) (dec, sc in next 6 st) repeat 2 times, dec,

68

9 10

sc in next 3 st,


Rnd 21: (black) sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 5 st, dec,

sc in next 2 st,

(brown) sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next 5 st, dec,

sc in next 4 st,

(black) sc in next st, dec, sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in

next 2 st [36]

Rnd 22: (black) (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 2 times,

sc in next 3 st,

(brown) sc in next st, dec, sc in next 4 st, dec,

(black) (sc in next 4 st, dec) repeat 2 times [30]

Rnd 23: (black) (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat 6 times [24]

Fasten off, weave in the yarn end.

EYELID (make 2, start in white yarn)

Ch 6, join with a slst in the first ch to make a ring.

Rnd 1: Work 10 sc into the ring [10] (picture 9 + tutorial

on page 14)

Change to brown yarn. We work on the first 5 stitches only.

Rnd 2: ch 1, sc in next st, (hdc, dc) in the next st, dc in

next st, (dc, hdc) in the next st, sc in next st [7]

Fasten off, weave in the yarn end. Insert the safety eye

in the center of the starting ring (picture 10). Don't close

the washers yet. Secure the eyelid to the eye with yarn

glue. Insert the eyes between rounds 12 and 13 with an

interspace of 13 stitches. Make sure the eyes are slightly

angled to make the eyes look sleepy. Now close the

washers. Stuff the head with fiberfill.

MUZZLE (in white yarn)


foundation chain.



chain, sc in next 7 st, 3 sc in last st [22]

Rnd 2: sc in next 3 st, sc3tog, sc in next 3 st, inc in next

2 st, sc in next 9 st, inc in next 2 st [24]

Rnd 3: sc in next 7 st, inc in next 4 st, sc in next 4 st, inc

in next st, sc in next 4 st, inc in next 4 st [33]



next 10 st [31]

Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 31 st [31]

Do not fasten off, drop the yarn for later use. Pull out

your crochet hook and put a safety pin or a stitch mark-

er in the loop to keep it from unraveling (picture 11). We

continue crocheting the blaze.

Using the second end of the yarn from the same ball, join

the yarn with a slst in the 18th st of round 7 (picture 12).

We crochet in rows.

Row 1: sc in the same st as where you joined the yarn,



Row 3: dec, sc in next 2 st, ch 1, turn [3]


Row 12: dec, sc in next st [2] (picture 13)

Fasten off, weave in the yarn end. Re-insert your

hook in the stitch where the safety pin was placed

(picture 14). We continue working around both the

muzzle and blaze. (picture 15)

69

11 12 13 14

Rnd 8: sc in next 17 st, sc in next 11 row ends of the

blaze, inc in 2 st across row 12 of the blaze, sc in next 11

row ends at the other side of the blaze, sc in remaining 8

st across the muzzle.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert the safety

nose between rounds 2 and 3 in the center of the muzzle.

Sew the muzzle to the head. Stuff the muzzle as you

sew, do not over stuff.

EAR (make 2, in black yarn)


foundation chain.



dation chain, sc in next 4 st, inc in next st [14]

Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 11 st, inc in next 2 st [17]

Rnd 3: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 12 st, inc in

next st, sc in next st, inc in next st [20]

Rnd 4: inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in

next 13 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times [24]

Rnd 5: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 19 st,

inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st [27]

Rnd 6: inc in next st, sc in next 23 st, inc in next st,


Rnd 7: sc in next 28 st, inc in last st [30]

Rnd 8 – 10: sc in all 30 st [30]






Rnd 16: dec 2 times, sc in next 20 st [22]






Flatten the ears. Do not stuff the ears.

Row 1: work through both layers in each st across.

Sc in next 8 st [8] (picture 16)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the ears to

the head in between rounds 7 and 8.

ARM (make 2, start in white yarn)


foundation chain.


3 sc in next st. Continue on the other side of the

foundation chain, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next st,

5-dc-bobble in next st, 2 sc in next st [12]

NOTE: When you insert your hook in the next st after the

5-dc-bobble st, push the bobble with your middle finger so

that the bobble comes out in front. Make sure the bobble

stays in front when you yarn over and draw up a loop. If the

bobble appears on the wrong side when you work the next

stitch, you can push the bobble out with your middle finger

after you made your next single crochet.

Rnd 2: (sc in next 5 st, 5-dc-bobble) repeat 2 times [12]






Stuff the hand with fiberfill.


Change to black yarn.

Rnd 13 – 21: sc in all 9 st [9]


Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the arms

with fiberfill.

15 16

70

LEG (make 2, start in brown yarn)

Ch 13, join with a slst in the first ch to form a ring. Work

round 1 in the back ridge of the chain. (The back ridge is

the small 'bump' on the back of the chain, the opposite

side of which you usually crochet in.)

Rnd 1 – 6: sc in all 13 st [13]


Rnd 7 – 12: sc in all 13 st [13]

Rnd 13: sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st,

3 sc in next st, sc in next 5 st [17]



Rnd 15: sc in next 7 st, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 st,

3 hdc in next st, sc in next 7 st [23]

Right foot:

Rnd 16: sc in first 8 st, (3-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next

st) repeat 2 times, 4-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next st,

5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next 8 st [23]


Left foot:

Rnd 16: sc in first 8 st, 5-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next

st, 4-dc-bobble in next st, sc in next st, (3-dc-bobble in

71

next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times, sc in next 8 st [23]

Fasten off, weave in the yarn end. (picture 17)

BODY (start in brown yarn)

Now we continue crocheting the body working around

both legs. As you have crocheted round 1 of the legs in the

back ridge of the foundation chain, the front and back loop

of the stitch will be visible at the beginning of your work.

Flatten the leg, ensuring that the toes face forward, and

place a stitch marker in a stitch at the big toe side edge

of each leg (picture 18). We start with the left leg.

Rnd 17: Insert your hook in the marked stitch of the left

leg and draw up a loop (picture 19). Leave a tail at the

beginning; you will use it later to sew the space between

the two legs closed. Sc in all 13 st of the left leg. Continue

on the right leg. Insert your hook in the marked st of the

right leg (picture 20) and sc in all 13 st [26]

Rnd 18: (sc in next 5 st, inc in next st) repeat 4 times,


Starting at the next round, we will crochet the body

with alternating yarns. The color you work with is indi-

cated before each line. Please note the instructions for

color changes on page 67.

Rnd 19: (black) sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next st,


(white) sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, inc in

next st, sc in next st,


(black) sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st [34]



(white) sc in next 11 st,
















(brown) sc in next st,


Drop the brown yarn and fasten off, weave in the yarn

end securely.




Rnd 25: (black) sc in next 8 st, dec, sc in next st,


(black) sc in next st, dec, sc in next 5 st [32]





(white) sc in next 6 st, dec, sc in next 6 st,

72

17 18 19 20







(black) sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 3 st [28]





(white) sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in next 4 st,






(white) sc in next st, dec, sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next 2 st,


Drop the white yarn. Fasten off, weave in the yarn end

securely.



with fiberfill. Sew the head to the body, add extra stuffing

as you sew to make the head stable. Sew the arms to the

sides of the body on the second round down from the neck.

SOLE OF FOOT (make 2, start in pink yarn)




Rnd 3: inc in next 4 st, (sc in 2 next st, inc in next st)


Now we will make the paw with alternating colors.

Rnd 4: (sc in white, inc in next st in pink) repeat 4

times, slst in next 10 st in white [22]

Fasten off. Weave in the pink yarn. Leave a long tail of

white yarn for sewing. Stuff the legs with fiberfill.

To sew the sole to the bottom of the foot, find the

seventh stitch of the sole, and the stitch between the

second and third toe (picture 21). Then pinch the sole

and the bottom of the foot so that these 2 stitches are

facing each other. Place a stitch marker in the 2 stitch-

es (picture 22). Using the leftover yarn tail of the sole,

sew the stitches facing each other one by one. Make

sure to insert your yarn needle through both loops of

the white stitches and through the back loops only of

the pink stitches. (picture 23, 24)

TAIL (start in white yarn)








the tail. Sew the tail the body over rounds 3 to 5

counting up from the top of the leg.

73

21 22 23 24

BABY BEAGLE

NOTE: Use a 2.25 mm hook and Fingering weight yarn.

HEAD (start in black yarn)





Starting at the next round, we will crochet the head

with alternating yarns. The color you work with is indi-

cated before each line. Please note the instructions for

color changes on page 67.

Rnd 5: (black) sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 3 st,

inc in next st, sc in next 2 st,


(black) inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next st,




Rnd 6: (black) (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times,



(brown) sc in next st, inc in next st,

(black) (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st) repeat 2 times [36]

Rnd 7: (black) sc in next 4 st, inc in next st, sc in next

5 st, inc in next st,


(black) sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 4 st,

(brown) sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 2 st,








Rnd 9: (black) sc in next 12 st



Rnd 10 – 11: (black) sc in next 12 st,










sc in next st,

(brown) sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 5 st, dec, sc in

next 2 st,


Rnd 15: (black) sc in next 2 st, (dec, sc in next 4 st) repeat

2 times,

(brown) dec, sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next 3 st,

(black) sc in next st, dec, sc in next 4 st, dec, sc in next

2 st [30]


sc in next 3 st,

(brown) dec, sc in next 3 st, dec, sc in next st,


Drop the brown yarn and fasten off. Weave in the

yarn end securely. Insert the safety eyes between

74

rounds 9 and 10 with an interspace of 8 stitches. Stuff

the head and add extra stuffing as you go.

Rnd 17: (black) (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 18: (black) (sc in next st, dec) repeat 6 times [12]


MUZZLE (in white yarn)


foundation chain.



dation chain, sc in next 5 st, 3 sc in next st [18]

Rnd 2: sc in next 2 st, sc3tog, sc in next 2 st, inc in next

2 st, sc in next 3 st, ch 2 and skip the next stitch for a

space for the safety nose, sc in next 3 st, inc in next 2 st [21]

Rnd 3: sc in next 12 st, 2 sc into the 2 ch, sc in next 7 st [21]


Rnd 5: sc in next 13 st, next we will crochet the blaze.

Ch 7 (picture 25) and work along the length of the

ch, starting in second ch from hook, sc in next

6 ch, skip next st, sc in next 7 st (picture 26)

[21 + blaze]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert

the safety nose in the hole on round 2 of the

muzzle. Sew the muzzle to the head, stuff

the muzzle as you sew. Do not over stuff.

NOTE: If your safety nose has a longer stem,

cut it short to fit into the muzzle so it doesn't poke

through the head. If the washer is too big to fit

inside the muzzle, cut the stem of the nose off and

glue the nose to the muzzle.

EAR (make 2, in black yarn)


dation chain.



chain, sc in next st, inc in next st [8]

Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next 2 st [11]

Rnd 3: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st, inc in

next st, sc in next st, inc in next st [14]

Rnd 4: Inc in next st, sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in

next 7 st, (inc in next st, sc in next st) repeat 2 times [18]

Rnd 5 – 6: sc in all 18 st [18]





Flatten the ear. Do not stuff the ear. We continue

crocheting in rows.

Row 1: work through both layers in each st across.


75

Row 2: sc in next 3 st, dec, ch 1, turn [4]

Row 3: dec, sc in next 2 st [3]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the ears

to the head over rounds 6 and 7.

ARM (make 2, start in white yarn)







the arms.

LEG (make 2, start in white yarn)



Change to brown yarn.


Fasten off the first leg. Create a second leg just like the

first one. Do not fasten off the second leg, we will con-

tinue working on this leg.

BODY (start in brown yarn)

Continue on the second leg, ch 3 (picture 27), join to the

first leg with a slst (picture 28), and continue crocheting

the body working around both legs.

Rnd 7: ch 1 and sc in the same stitch as you made slst, sc

in next 5 st, sc in each half side of ch-3 (picture 29), sc in

next 6 st on the second leg (picture 30), sc in next 3 st at

the opposite side of the ch-3 [18] (picture 31)

Rnd 8: (brown) sc in next 6 st,




Rnd 9: (black) sc in next st,










76

25 26 27 28

29 30 31 32

77

to black yarn, sc in next 5 ch in black.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Weave in the

white yarn end. Sew the tail to the body between rounds

2 and 3 counting up from the top of the leg. (picture 32)

BABY CARRIER (start in blue yarn)


Rnd 2: (inc in next st, ch 10, skip next 2 st) repeat

2 times [20] (picture 33)

Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc in next st, 10 sc into ch 10-

space) repeat 2 times [26] (picture 34)

Rnd 4: sc in next 6 st, next we’ll crochet the strap,

work ch 32 (picture 35) and, starting in third ch from

hook, hdc in each 30 ch along the length of the chain

(picture 36), sc in next 2 st, inc in next st, sc in next 9 st,

inc in next st, sc in next 4 st, next you will crochet the

second strap, work ch 32 and, starting in third ch from

hook, hdc in each 30 ch along the length of the chain,

sc in next 3 st [30 and 2 straps] (picture 37)

Rnd 5: sc in next 6 st, keep both straps directed down

towards you, work ch 1, jump to the other side of the

strap, sc in next 19 st, ch 1 (picture 38), jump to the

other side of the strap, sc in next 3 st [30]

Drop the brown yarn and fasten off, weave in the

yarn end.




Rnd 12: (black) sc in next 2 st, dec,


(black) dec, sc in next 4 st [16]




Rnd 14: (black) sc in next 2 st, dec, sc in next st,

(white) sc in next st, dec, sc in next 2 st,

(black) dec, sc in next 2 st, dec [12]

Rnd 15: (black) sc in all 12 st [12]


with fiberfill. Sew the head to the body, add extra stuffing

as you sew to make the head stable. Sew the arms to the

sides of the body on the second round down from the neck.

TAIL (start in black yarn)

Ch 5 in black, continue with ch 4 in white. Starting in

second ch from hook, slst in next 3 ch in white, change

33 34 35 36

37 38 39 40

Rnd 6: (white) sc in all 30 st [30]

Rnd 7: (blue) sc in all 30 st [30]


Rnd 9: (blue) sc in all 30 st [30]


Change to blue yarn. Drop the white yarn and

78

fasten off, weave in the yarn end.


Rnd 12: sc in next 28 st, bring the top of the strap to the

edge of this round and work through both layers, sc in

next 2 st [30]

Rnd 13: sc in next 6 st, bring the top of the second strap to

the edge of this round and work through both layers,

sc in next 2 st (picture 39), sc in next 22 st [30] (picture 40)


BABY SOOTHER (start in blue yarn)

The soother is made of 3 parts; the base, the center

ball and the ring. (picture 41)

BASE (in blue yarn)

Rnd 1: start 3 sc, 3 hdc, 3 sc, 3 hdc in a magic ring [12]


CENTER BALL (in white yarn)

Rnd 1: start 6 hdc in a magic ring [6]

Draw the yarn through the back loops of all 6 stitches

and pull tightly. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sew-

ing. Put the center ball aside.

RING (in yellow yarn)

Rnd 1: ch 8, join with slst in the first ch to form a ring [8]

Tie the yarn ends together and secure it with a little bit

of yarn glue. Pull the ring through the center of the ball

and secure it with a little bit of yarn glue (picture 42).

Sew the center ball to the base (picture 43) and sew or

glue it to the muzzle of baby beagle. (picture 44)

41 42 43 44

Butterfly Bree has one great love, her baby Caterpillar Calin. With her majestic wings

she flutters from flower to flower. While flying around, mama Bree comforts Calin and rocks him,

gently singing a sweet lullaby. Calin will soon become a beautiful butterfly just like his mother.

skill level

7” / 18 cm tall 3” / 8 cm long

mom baby

79

design by ZABBEZ

materials – mom

– Sport weight yarn in apricot (10 g / 25 m),

white (20 g / 50 m), light blue (15 g /40 m),

dark blue (17 g / 45 m)

– Brown safety eyes (6 mm)

– Florist wire (optional)

materials – baby

– Sport weight yarn in apricot (10 g / 25 m),

green (10 g /25 m) and dark brown (leftover).

both


– Yarn needle


MAMA BUTTERFLY

HEAD AND BODY (start in apricot yarn)







Rnd 7 – 11: sc in all 36 st [36]




Insert the safety eyes between rounds 10 and 11 with an

interspace of 8 stitches. Stuff with fiberfill and continue

stuffing as you go.








80

Rnd 21 – 23: sc in all 30 st [30]









Rnd 31 – 35: sc in all 36 st [36]


Rnd 37 – 38: sc in all 30 st [30]


Rnd 40 – 41: sc in all 24 st [24]


Rnd 43 – 44: sc in all 18 st [18]



Rnd 46 – 47: sc in all 12 st [12]






bottom of the body. Weave in the yarn end.

ANTENNA (make 2, in light blue yarn)



Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Position the

antennas to round 4 of the head, slightly towards the

front. Using your yarn needle, sew them on with the

leftover yarn tail and weave in the yarn end.

ARM (make 2, start in apricot yarn)







Flatten the arm. The arms do not need to be stuffed.

Rnd 15: crochet through both sides at once, sc in all 3 st [3]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the arms to

the body between rounds 20 and 21. Weave in the yarn end.

UPPER WING (make 2 in white yarn and 2 in

dark blue yarn)

Make sure you crochet fairly tightly so the wings are

firm and keep their shape. We crochet in rows. Ch 4.


ch 1, turn [3]

Row 2: inc in next st, sc, inc in next st, ch 1, turn [5]


ch 1, turn [7]

Row 4: inc in next st, sc in next 6 st, ch 1, turn [8]



ch 1, turn [11]

























81

Row 34: dec [1]

Fasten off, weave in the yarn ends.

LOWER WING (make 2 in white yarn and 2 in

dark blue yarn)

Make sure you crochet fairly tightly so the wings are

firm and keep their shape. We crochet in rows. Ch 3.


ch 1, turn [2]

Row 2 – 4: sc in next 2 st, ch 1, turn [2]



ch 1, turn [6]


ch 1, turn [8]


ch 1, turn [10]


ch 1, turn [12]


ch 1, turn [14]


ch 1, turn [16]


ch 1, turn [18]

















Row 31: dec [1]


ASSEMBLY OF THE WINGS

Lay down the 4 blue wings according to the butterfly’s

wings lay-out (picture 1). Put the 4 white wings on top. For

each wing, crochet the blue and white layers together start-

ing at the narrow end of each wing (picture 2, red dots).

NOTE: When you crochet tightly, after you have crocheted

the wings together, they should be firm enough to hold their

shape. However, if you want the wings to be even firmer,

you can crochet a length of wire in the rim.

82

1 2 3 4

5 6

A B

C D

Top left wing A: Insert your hook through both layers at

the end of the wing (red dot) and pull up a loop of dark

blue yarn. Make 3 sc in the first st, sc in next 33 st, inc in

next 3 st, sc in next 14 st, inc, sc in next 2 st, inc, sc in next

15 st, slst in the next st. Fasten off, weave in the yarn ends.

Top right wing B: Insert your hook through both layers

at the end of the wing (red dot) and pull up a loop of

dark blue yarn. Make 3 sc in the first st, sc in next 15 st,

inc, sc in next 2 st, inc, sc in next 14 st, inc in next 3 st,

sc in next 33 st, slst in next st. Fasten off, weave in the

yarn ends.

Bottom left wing C: Insert your hook through both

layers at the end of the wing (red dot) and pull up a loop

of dark blue yarn. Make 3 sc in the first st, sc in next

18 st, inc, sc in next 11 st, (3 sc in next st) repeat 2 times,

sc in next 13 st, inc, sc in next 16 st, slst in next st.


Bottom right wing D: Insert your hook through

both layers at the end of the wing (red dot)

and pull up a loop of dark blue yarn. Make

3 sc in the first st, sc in next 16 st, inc, sc in

next 13 st, (3 sc in next st) repeat 2 times,

sc in next 11 st, inc, sc in next 18 st, slst in

next st. Fasten off, weave in the yarn ends.

Sew the wings together in the center joining

3 stitches in between each wing. (picture 3)

Embroider the structure on the wings with dark

blue yarn according to the example (picture 4).

Make sure you insert your yarn needle through

both layers to strengthen the wings even more.

DOTS (make 2 in dark blue yarn)



Sew the dots on the lower wings.

Finally position the wings to the upper back part of the

body and sew them on tightly (picture 5). Sew through

the top wings and make a slight Y-shape to secure the

wings in place (picture 6). Make sure the upper wing is

positioned entirely on the upper part of the body, while

the lower wing is below the butterfly's waist.

BABY CATERPILLAR

HEAD AND BODY (start in apricot yarn)





Rnd 5 – 8: sc in all 24 st [24]





Change to green yarn.

83



Rnd 14 – 16: sc in all 18 st [18]





Rnd 20 – 21: sc in all 12 st [12]



Rnd 24 – 25: sc in all 5 st [5]




bottom of the body. Weave in the yarn end.

84

ANTENNA (make 2, in green yarn)



Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Position the

antennas to round 3 of the head, slightly towards the

front. Using your yarn needle, sew them on with the

leftover yarn tail and weave in the yarn end.

With dark brown yarn, embroider the eyes between

rounds 6 and 7 with an interspace of 4 stitches.

Optional: you can sew the caterpillar baby in mama

butterfly's arms.

Baby Bear is having his first birthday party today and all his friends are coming. Look at that cake!

Doesn’t it look yummy? Papa and Mama Bear stayed up all night to bake it. Now Baby Bear can’t

wait to eat it. Oh, why won’t his friends hurry up and come over already!

skill level

8.5” / 21 cm tall 5.5” / 14 cm tall

mom / dad baby

85

design by TALES OF TWISTED FIBERS (SERAH BASNET)

materials – mom

– Fingering weight yarn in light brown (60 g /

240 m), dark brown (10 g / 40 m), light pink (15 g /

60 m), dark pink (15 g / 60 m)



– 2 pink buttons (11 mm)

materials – dad


240 m), dark brown (10 g / 40 m), dark blue

(20 g / 80 m)



– 2 brown buttons (11 mm)

materials – baby


160 m), dark brown (10 g / 40 m), light blue

(10 g / 40 m), red (10 g / 40 m)



– 2 blue (heart-shaped) buttons (10 mm)

– 3 star shaped buttons in yellow, green,

light blue (10 mm)

materials – cake

– Fingering weight yarn in light yellow (30 g / 120 m),

white (10 g / 40 m), brown (15 g / 60 m), red (10 g /

40 m), light blue (10 g / 40 m), orange (5 g / 20 m)

all


– A small piece of plastic sheet

– A pair of scissors

– Yarn needle

– Pearl headed pins

– Stitch markers

– Small lengths of dark brown, pink, blue,

yellow and green sewing thread

MAMA & PAPA BEAR

LEG (make 2, start in dark brown yarn)


dation chain.



chain, sc in next 3 st, inc in the last st [12]

Rnd 2: inc in next st, sc in next 3 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in

next 3 st, inc in last 2 st [18]

Rnd 3: inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, inc in next 5 st, sc in

next 5 st, inc in last 2 st [26]

Make the sole: On a small plastic sheet, lay the sole flat,

trace an outline around it and cut out the base. Check

if it stays within the dark brown area. Trim further if

required. Make 2 holes in the center, a few centimeters

apart. Make a second sole following the same instruc-

tions and set them aside.

Change to light brown yarn.


Rnd 5 – 7: sc in all 26 st [26]

Insert sole: Place the plastic sole on the inside of the foot

(picture 1), thread a yarn needle with dark brown yarn, and

holding both pieces together, insert the needle from the

inside to the outside through the first hole (picture 2) and

from the outside to the inside through the second hole (pic-

ture 3). Knot the yarn ends together to secure. (picture 4)

Rnd 8: sc in next 7 st, dec 5 times, sc in last 9 st [21]


86

optional materials for poseable arms

– 16 gauge wire

– Masking tape

– Wire cutter


Rnd 11 – 12: sc in all 13 st [13]

Stuff the foot with fiberfill.

Rnd 13: (sc in next st, inc) repeat 3 times, inc in next st,

(sc in next st, inc) repeat 3 times [20]

Rnd 14 – 17: sc in all 20 st [20]

Rnd 18: (sc in next 4 st, inc) repeat 4 times [24]

Rnd 19: sc in next 20 st. Mark the last worked stitch;

this is where the leg will be joined later. sc in remaining

4 st [24]

Fasten off, weave in the yarn end. Stuff with fiberfill.

Make the second leg following instructions for round

1 – 18.


Rnd 20: slst in the next 5 st. Mark the last st worked as

the end of the round. Do not finish the round. Do not

fasten off. Stuff with fiberfill.


In the next round, we will join the legs. Hold both legs

together, the leg with the ‘live’ stitch should be on the

right and the first leg on the left. Make sure the toes are

facing away from you.

Rnd 1: With the live stitch on your hook, insert your hook

in the marked stitch of the left leg, pull up a loop and

make a sc, this is the first st of the round, you can mark it

with a stitch marker for your convenience, sc in next

22 st, inc in the last st of the first leg. Continue on the

second leg, inc in first st, sc in next 23 st [50]

Rnd 2 – 7: sc in all 50 st [50]




Rnd 11 – 12: sc in all 40 st [40]



Rnd 14 – 15: sc in all 35 st [35]


Rnd 17 – 18: sc in all 30 st [30]


Rnd 20 – 21: sc in all 25 st [25]


Rnd 23 – 24: sc in all 20 st [20]




Rnd 28 – 31: sc in all 12 st [12]

It is very important to stuff the neck as firmly as possible

at this point so it can support the weight of the head.




remaining stitch and pull it tight, closing off the neck.

Weave in the yarn end.




Rnd 3: (sc in next st, inc) repeat 6 times [18]

Rnd 4 – 6: sc in all 18 st [18]

Rnd 7: [left arm] 4-dc bobble stitch in next st, sc in next

st, dec 4 times, sc in last 8 st [14] [right arm] sc in next 8 st,

dec 4 times, sc in next st, 4-dc bobble stitch in last st [14]

87

1 2 3 4



Rnd 10 – 25: sc in all 12 st [12]

If you’d like to make poseable arms, follow Poseable arm

instructions. If you’d prefer to make stationary arms, stuff

the arms with fiberfill and skip immediately to round 26,

then sew the arms to the body.

Poseable arm instructions:

– Cut the yarn, leaving a tail long enough to work one

more round and sew. Do not fasten off, instead put a

stitch marker in your loop to prevent your crochet work

from unraveling.

– We now insert wire and stuffing into the arm. Measure

the length of the arm first, then the area above the chest

where the wire will go through the body and then the

second arm; add an additional inch /2.5 cm. This is the

total length of wire needed.

– With a wire cutter, bend one end to make an eyelet

(picture 5). Wrap some masking tape around the eyelet to

prevent it from poking through the stitches (picture 6).

Insert this end into the first arm and stuff around it

lightly. (picture 7)

Rnd 26: dec 6 times [6] (picture 8)

Sew the gap closed (picture 9). Do not clip off excess yarn.

– Insert the other end of the wire into the area where the

arm will be placed. This will be between round 7 and 8

counting down from the top of the neck. Push the wire

all the way through to the other side where the second

arm will be placed (picture 10). Bend the tip into an

eyelet, secure with masking tape.

– Do not clip off excess yarn. Instead, push the yarn needle

back inside the body (from the point where you inserted

the wire) and bring it out from the tip of the neck.

(picture 11)

– Follow round 1 – 25 to make the second arm. Insert wire

and stuffing (picture 12). Work round 26 and sew the

gap closed. Repeat the previous step with the leftover

yarn of the second arm. Using these two strands,

tie a couple of knots to secure the arms to the body.

Clip off excess yarn ends.





88

5 6 7 8

9 10 11 12






Rnd 9 – 19: sc in all 64 st [64]








Fasten off, weave in the yarn end. Stuff firmly while

leaving some space in the center for the neck that will

be inserted later.

MUZZLE (in light brown yarn)




Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 24 st [24]

slst in the next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sew-

ing. Insert the 20 mm safety nose through the magic ring

and stuff the muzzle. Pin the muzzle between rounds 12

and 20 of the head and sew it in place.

EYES

Indent eye area: Following this step will define the

face. With pearl headed pins, mark the points for the

eyes to be sewn on, between rounds 15 and 16 on either

side of the muzzle (this would be the second stitch on

89

the face from the seam of the muzzle on both the left

and right sides) (picture 13). Thread a yarn needle with

light brown yarn and insert it from the neck opening

into the head (picture 14), bringing it out at one of the

marked points. Push the needle back in through the

stitch next to it (picture 15), bringing it out through the

second marked point. (picture 16) Push the needle back

in through the stitch next to it (picture 17), and back out

through the neck opening (picture 18). Remove the pins

and pull both ends of the yarn tightly. Once you are sat-

isfied with the look, knot the yarn ends to secure (pic-

ture 19). Clip off excess yarn and hide the knot inside

the head. Insert the safety eyes in place (picture 20).

Embellish mama bear’s eyes: Thread a yarn needle

with dark brown yarn. Insert the needle through the

neck opening and embroider the embellishment around

the eyes.

EAR (make 2, in light brown yarn)





Rnd 5 – 7: sc in all 32 st [32]



Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the ears.

90

13 14 15 16

17 18 19 20

21 22 23 24

The ears do not need to be stuffed. Sew them on either

side of the head between rounds 6 and 12.

Make movable head: To make the head movable, thread

light brown yarn and insert the needle through the center

of the magic ring on the head and out through the neck

opening (picture 21). Count down 7 rounds from the top

of the neck. Now insert your needle through the neck

at this point (picture 22), then back through the neck

opening on the head (picture 23), bringing it out through

the magic ring again (picture 24). Slide the head down

the two strands of yarn until it sits perfectly on the neck.

Knot the yarn ends together a few times to secure. Clip off

excess yarn and push remaining yarn back into the head.

DRESS FOR MAMA BEAR (start in dark pink yarn)

NOTE: When the pattern calls for making a 'dc in the ch 1

space of one of the previously worked rounds', work as fol-

lows: yarn over, insert hook in the ch-1 space on the indicated

round, pull up a long loop to the height of a dc, yarn over and

pull through the first two loops, yarn over and pull through

the remaining two loops. (pictures 25 – 30)

The dress changes color several times. You don't need to

cut your yarn for each color change, carry the yarn on the

inside of your crochetwork and pick it up when it's needed.

We start with the waistband. Ch 45, join with a slst to the

first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1: start in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in all 43 st [43]

Change to light pink yarn.

Rnd 2: work this round in BLO. dc in next 2 st, ch 1, skip

the next st, (dc in next 3 st, ch 1, skip the next st) repeat

10 times [43]

Rnd 3: dc in next 2 st, ch 1, skip the next st, (dc in next

3 st, ch 1, skip the next st) repeat 10 times [43]

Change to dark pink yarn.

Rnd 4: dc in next 2 st, dc in the ch-1 space on round 2,

(dc in next 3 st, dc in the ch-1 space on round 2) repeat 10

times [43]


Rnd 5 – 6: repeat rounds 2 and 3.

Fasten off this color. Change to dark pink yarn.

Rnd 7: dc in next 2 st, dc in the ch-1 space on round 5,

(dc in next 3 st, dc in the ch-1 space on round 5) repeat 10

times [43]


Bib (start in light pink yarn)

Join light pink in one of the stitches on the waistband of

the dress (this is the ch 45 at the start). We work in rows.

Row 1 – 2: sc in next 12 st, ch 1, turn [12]




91

25 26 27 28

29 30





Fasten off this color. Change to light pink yarn.



Fasten off, weave in yarn ends. With dark pink yarn,

sc all around the bib to neaten the row ends.

Shoulder straps

Find the center of the back of the dress. Count 6 st to the

right and mark this stitch. Count 6 st from the center to

the left and mark this stitch.

Join dark pink yarn on the marked st on the right and ch

22. Starting in seventh ch from the hook, sc in the next 16

ch. Join with a slst to the next st on the waistband, slst in

the next 10 st on the waistband, ch 22, starting in seventh

ch from the hook, sc in the next 16 ch. Join with a slst to

the next st on the waistband. Fasten off and, weave in the

yarn ends.

Sew the 11 mm pink buttons on the bib, slip the dress up

the legs and button the straps.

OVERALLS FOR PAPA BEAR (in dark blue yarn)

Trouser leg (make 2)

Ch 24, join with a slst to the first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1 – 5: hdc in all 24 st [24]


Make the second trouser leg. Do not fasten off. In the

next round, we join the trouser legs.

Rnd 6: Hold the first trouser leg on the left of the work-

ing piece. Insert your hook in any one of the stitches of

the first trouser leg and slst to join. We continue on the

second trouser leg. hdc inc in the first st, hdc in next 22 st,

hdc inc in next st, jump to the first leg, hdc inc in next st,

hdc in next 22 st, hdc inc in the last st [52]

Rnd 7 – 10: hdc in all 52 st [52]

Rnd 11: (hdc in next 11 st, dec) repeat 4 times [48]



Fasten off.

92

Bib (in dark blue yarn)

Lay the trousers flat and find the center. Count 6 st to

the right and mark this stitch. Count 6 st from the center

to the left and mark this stitch. We will work in rows on

these 13 st only. Join dark blue yarn to the first marked

stitch on the right.

Row 1: ch 2, hdc in the next 13 st, ch 2, turn [13]

Row 2 – 3: hdc in all 13 st, ch 2, turn [13]

Row 4: dec, hdc in next 9 st, dec, ch 2, turn [11]

Row 5: hdc in all 11 st, ch 2, turn [11]

Row 6: dec, hdc in next 7 st, dec [9]

Fasten off. Join dark blue yarn to the base of the bib on

the right and sc along the row ends, slst along the top

9 st, sc along the left row ends. Fasten off, weave in the

yarn ends.

Shoulder straps

On the back of the trousers, find the center of the waist.

Count 6 st to the right and mark this st. Count 6 st from

the center to the left and mark this stitch. Join dark blue

yarn to the marked st on the right and ch 26. Starting in

seventh ch from the hook, sc in the next 20 ch. Join with

a slst to the next st on the waistband, slst in next 10 st

on the waistband, ch 26, starting in seventh ch from the

hook, sc in the next 20 ch. Join with a slst to the next st on

the waistband.

Fasten off, weave in the yarn ends. Sew 11 mm brown

buttons on either side of the bib. Slip the overalls up the

legs and button the straps.

BABY BEAR

LEG (make 2, start in dark brown yarn)


dation chain.

Rnd 1: start in second ch from the hook, sc in next 4 st,

3 sc in last st. Continue on the other side of the founda-

tion ch, sc in next 3 st, inc in last st [12]


Change to light brown yarn.






Stuff the foot with fiberfill.

Rnd 8 – 10: sc in all 12 st [12]


Counting anti-clockwise, mark the third st from the ‘live’

stitch with a stitch marker. This is where we will join the

other leg later. Fasten off and stuff the leg with fiberfill.

Repeat rounds 1 to 11 for the second leg. Do not fasten off.

Slst in the next 4 st. Mark the last st as the end of the round.


In the next round, we will join the legs. Hold both legs to-

gether, with the working leg on the right and the first leg

on the left. Make sure the toes are facing away from you.

Rnd 1: Insert your hook in the marked stitch of the left

leg and make a sc, this is the first st of the round, you can

mark it with a stitch marker for your convenience, sc in

the next 14 st. Continue working on the second leg and


Rnd 2 – 4: sc in all 30 st [30]


Rnd 6 – 12: sc in all 24 st [24]



Rnd 14 – 18: sc in all 12 st [12]

Stuff the neck firmly.




remaining stitch and pull it tight, closing off the body.





Rnd 5: (sc in next st, dec) repeat 2 times, sc in last 3 st [7]


Fasten off. Do not stuff. Insert wire following Poseable

93

arm instructions for Mama and Papa Bear and attach the

arms between rounds 9 and 10 of the body, counting

down from the top of the neck.








Rnd 7 – 15: sc in all 48 st [48]





Slst in the next st. Fasten off, weave in the yarn end. Stuff

firmly while leaving some space in the center for the neck

that will be inserted later.

MUZZLE (in light brown yarn)






Slst in the next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Insert the 15 mm triangular safety nose through the

magic ring. Stuff the muzzle lightly and sew it in place

between rounds 8 and 17 of the head. Next, indent the

eye area following instructions given for mama and papa

bear and place the 12 mm eyes between rounds 12 and 13

on either side of the muzzle.






Rnd 5 – 7: sc in all 24 st [24]


Slst in the next st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for

sewing. Flatten the ears and sew them on either side

of the head between rounds 4 and 11.

Embroider a line above the eyes with brown yarn following

Embellish mama bear’s eyes instructions. Next, following

94

Make movable head instructions, attach the head to the

body between round 7 and 8 counting down from the top

of the neck.

OVERALLS (in light blue yarn)

Ch 20, join with a slst to the first ch to form a ring.

Rnd 1 – 2: hdc in all 20 ch [20]

Fasten off. Make the second trouser leg but do not

fasten off. In the next round, we join the trouser legs.

Rnd 3: hold the first trouser leg on the left of the

working piece. Insert your hook in any one of the

stitches and join with a slst. Hdc in all 40 st around

both trouser legs [40]



Next, we will work on the bib. We crochet in rows.

Row 1: slst in next 4 st. ch 2, turn, hdc in next 7 st [7]

Row 2 – 4: ch 2, turn, hdc in next 7 st [7]

Fasten off. Join blue yarn to the base of the bib on the right

and sc along the row end, slst along the top 7 st, sc along

the left row end. Fasten off, weave in the yarn ends.

Shoulder straps

On the back of the trousers, find the center of the waist.

Count 3 st to the right and mark this stitch. Count 3 st

from the center to the left and mark this stitch. Join light

blue yarn to the marked stitch on the right and ch 22.

Starting in the seventh ch from the hook, sc in the next

16 ch. Join with a slst to the next st on the waistband,

slst in the next 5 st on the waistband, ch 22, starting in

the seventh ch from the hook, sc in the next 16 ch. Join

with a slst to the next st on the waistband.

Fasten off, weave in the yarn ends. Sew the 10 mm blue

buttons on either side of the bib. Slip the overalls up the

legs and button the straps.

PARTY HAT (in red yarn)



Rnd 3 – 4: sc in all 10 st [10]


Rnd 6 – 7: sc in all 15 st [15]





Rnd 12: reverse sc in all 25 st [25]

Fasten off, weave in the yarn end. Embellish the hat by

sewing 10 mm plastic star shaped buttons on it.

You can either tie two strings on the hat and fasten it on

baby bear’s head or sew it on the head permanently.

BIRTHDAY CAKE

CAKE (in light yellow yarn)








Rnd 8: bpsc in all 56 st [56]

Rnd 9 – 11: sc in all 56 st [56]


Rnd 12: hdc in all 56 st [56]

Change to light yellow yarn.


Rnd 14 – 15: sc in all 56 st [56]

Rnd 16: bpsc in all 56 st [56]








Fasten off and sew the gap closed.

CHOCOLATE ICING (in brown yarn)

Rnd 1 – 7: Follow rnd 1 to 7 of the cake instructions [56]


95

slst in the next st. Next we will work on the chocolate drips.

Drip 1: ch 5 (picture 31), start in second ch from hook,

sc in next 4 ch (picture 32), slst in the next 3 st on the

spiral. (picture 33, 34)

Drip 2: ch 8, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next 6 ch,

slst in the next 5 st on the spiral.

Drip 3: ch 4 (picture 35), start in third ch from hook, hdc

in next 2 ch, slst in the next 4 st on the spiral.

Drip 4: ch 8, start in third ch from hook, dc in next 6 ch,

skip next st on the spiral and slst in the next 3 st.



Drip 6: ch 3, start in second ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch,


Drip 7: skip the next st on the spiral, 5 dc in next st,

skip 1 st, slst in the next 3 st on the spiral.



Drip 9: ch 7, start in third ch from hook, dc in next 5 ch,

skip 1 st on the spiral and slst in the next 4 st.

Drip 10: skip the next st on the spiral, 5 dc in the next st,

skip 1 st on the spiral and slst in the next 4 st.

Drip 11: ch 4, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next

2 ch, slst in the next 5 st on the spiral.

Drip 12: ch 7, start in third ch from hook, hdc in next


Drip 13: skip the next st, 5 dc in the next st, skip 1 st on

the spiral and slst in the next 3 st.

31 32 33 34

35 36 37 38

39 40 41 42

96

97

Drip 14: ch 4, start in second st from hook, sc in next


Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Pin this layer

on top of the cake and sew in place, making sure all the

chocolate dribbles are also sewn to the cake.

CREAM AND CHERRY (make 6, start in red yarn)





Slst in the first st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Arrange all six pieces in a circle on top of the chocolate

icing and sew in place.

CANDLE (start in blue yarn)




Do not fasten off. We will work on the remaining length

of the candle later.

Making the flame: Cut a short length of orange yarn

(about 4 inches / 10 cm) and fold it in half. Insert your

hook from the inside of the magic ring and pull the loop

in from the center (picture 36). Take another strand of

orange yarn that is slightly longer than the first one.

Insert one end of the yarn through the loop (picture 37,

38) and make multiple knots to secure the ‘flame’ inside

the body of the candle (picture 39). Pull the two strands

of the yarn sticking out from the magic ring (this is to be

the flame) until the knots sit securely against the inside

of the magic ring. Next, we go back to working on the

body of the candle.


Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing (picture 40).

Snip off the excess yarn that is visible outside the lower

body of the candle. Carefully loosen the fiber of the or-

ange strands. Once it is loose and fuzzy, hold your scis-

sors vertically and trim into shape (picture 42). Finally,

hold the yarn between your thumb and index finger and

gently twist to give it a flame-like shape. Sew the candle

on the center of the cake.

Being a mom is hard. Being a mom eight times over, is nearly impossible! But not for Mama Octa.

With a tentacle for each of her kids, she'll always be there to get them out of a tough (ink) spot.

skill level

6” / 15 cm tall 1.5” / 3.5 cm tall

mom baby

98

design by DICEBERRY DESIGNS (MAXINE VELASCO)

materials – mom

– Worsted weight yarn in white (15 g / 7 m),

purple (25 g / 10 m), light pink (leftover) and

dark pink (leftover)

– Oval safety eyes (12 mm x 9 mm)

– A roll of steel wire or pipe cleaners (8 pcs)

materials for 8 babies

– Worsted weight yarn in light pink (10 g / 5 m)

and light green (10 g / 5 m)

– 16 round safety eyes (4 mm)

both

– Size 3 mm / C-2 hook

– Size 2.5 mm / B-1 hook

– Polyester fiberfill

– Super glue

– Black embroidery floss

– Yarn and thread needles

– Scissors

99

NOTE: It is not recommended to use steel wire in a toy for

young children.

NOTE: Use a 3 mm hook unless otherwise specified.

MAMA OCTA

BLUSH CHEEKS (make 2, in light pink yarn

with a 2.5 mm hook)




HEAD AND BODY (in purple yarn)










Rnd 10 – 11: sc in all 54 st [54]


Rnd 13 – 16: sc in all 60 st [60]


Rnd 18 – 19: sc in all 54 st [54]











Rnd 30 – 31: sc in all 18 st [18]

Insert the oval safety eyes between rounds 19 and 20 with

an interspace of 7 or 8 stitches. Do not fasten the backings

yet. Embroider a slanting line on the edge of the plastic

eyes to create lashes for Mama Octa. Then fasten the eyes.

Begin stuffing the head with fiberfill.





Continue to stuff the body up to the neck, and then give

it a good squeeze to make sure the stuffing fills the head

nicely, as well as to stretch the fabric to an oblong-like

shape. Add extra stuffing if needed. (picture 1)

Next we continue crocheting the tentacles.

WORKING THE TENTACLES

Rnd 36: sc in the next 3 st, (ch 51, start in second ch from

hook, sc in all 50 remaining ch, sc in next 6 st on the body)

repeat 7 times. Make the last tentacle by ch 51, start in

second ch from hook, sc in all 50 remaining ch, sc in next

3 st on the body [448] (picture 2)

Rnd 37: sc in next 3 st, (sc in next 100 st on the tentacle,

skip 1 st, sc in next 5 st on the body) repeat 7 times, sc in

next 100 st on the tentacle, skip 1 st, sc in next 2 st on the

body, skip 1 st, BLO slst in the last 2 st [840]

Skip 1 st and BLO slst in the next two stitches. Fasten off

the purple yarn, leaving a tail for sewing. (picture 3)

Rnd 38: Pull up a loop of white yarn, slst in the same st,

slst in next 4 st, (sc in all 100 st on the tentacle, slst in next

5 st on the body) repeat 7 times, sc in all 100 st, slst in next

1 2 3 4

5 6 7

8 9 10

11 12 13

100

st on the body [840] (picture 4 – 7)

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

CLOSING THE TENTACLES

Wiring:

Hold the octopus with its wrong side facing you. Measure

the length of a tentacle, which should roughly be 9 or 10

inches (23 to 25 cm). If using steel wire, follow Step A. If

using pipe cleaners, follow Step B.

A – Steel wire: Take the steel wire roll and cut double

the length of one of the tentacles (20 inches / 50 cm)

plus 2 – 3 inches / 8 – 9 cm for allowance. Repeat 7

times more for the other tentacles. Take one piece of

wire and insert the end into the topmost end of the

tentacle's wrong side. Continue threading it in until

half of its total length is through. Fold it in two at the

halfway point so that the tentacle is lined with a double

up length of wire. Keep the extra length in place with a

pin at the base of the tentacle and bury the ends of the

wire into the stuffing to prevent it from poking you as

you work (picture 8, 9). Proceed to row 1 afterwards.

B – Pipe cleaner: Line the center part of the tentacle

with a pipe cleaner. Loop the top end into the topmost

st to secure and to keep it from poking through the

fabric. Then with the main color yarn, sew the wire in

place at three sections starting from top, middle and

bottom of the tentacle (picture 10, 11). Proceed to row 1

afterwards.

Finishing (in white yarn) (picture 12, 13)

Row 1: Fold the tentacle in half lengthways, making sure

the stitches are aligned evenly. Then with the working

yarn slst the two topmost sc stitches together. Continue

to slst the stitches together for the next 48 st. Fasten off,

weave in the yarn ends. Repeat row 1 for the rest of the

seven tentacles. (picture 14, 15)

To finish the wiring, divide the wire lot in two, then care-

fully bundle and twist four tails together (picture 16). Next,

bend and bury the twisted tails into the stuffing to

finish (picture 17). Stuff the space under the wire

with fiberfill to secure it in place.

14 15 16 17

101

UNDERBELLY (in white yarn)









ASSEMBLY

With the right side of the underbelly facing you, match

the edges of the underbelly with the edges of the open

base of the body. Thread the leftover yarn tail onto your

yarn needle and use whip stitch to sew the two edges

between the tentacles together. Make sure your stitches go

underneath the 'V's on the edges of both the body and the

underbelly (picture 18). Continue around until you reach a

tentacle. Sew the tentacle to the underbelly by passing the

yarn needle underneath the 'V's of both of the sc stitches at

the base of the tentacle (picture 19). Continue joining with

whip stitch until you reach the next tentacle then join the

tentacle as described before. Continue all around, stuffing

the body as you go. Make sure the body is stuffed firmly

before you finish sewing it closed.

Optional: You can use white yarn to whip stitch the base of

the tentacles to round 6 of the underbelly for extra stability.

Sew the blush cheeks in between rounds 20 to 24, near the

eyes. With dark pink yarn, embroider a mouth in between

the blush cheeks, two rounds underneath the eyes.

18 19 20 21

102

103

BABY OCTOPUS

NOTE: Use a 2,5 mm hook.

HEAD (in light pink or light green yarn)





Rnd 5 – 8: sc in all 24 st [24]


Stuff the head with fiberfill. Insert the safety eyes in round

6 with an interspace of 4 to 5 stitches.




22 23 24 25

TENTACLES (in light pink or light green yarn)

Ch 8, join with a slst in the first ch to make a circle.

Rnd 1: sc in all 8 st, join with a slst in first st [8]

Rnd 2: (ch 10, start in 3rd ch from hook, dc in next 7 ch,

dc + slst in last ch, slst in next st on the starting ch) repeat

8 times.

Ch 1 and fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Use this

leftover yarn tail to sew the tentacle piece to the bottom

of the octopus over round 11. (picture 22 – 25)

104

Papa Penguin is such a loving and conscientious father who will do anything to protect his new son.

Mama Penguin happily goes off for a few weeks to feed on fish and build her strength back up. She knows that

Papa will make a great success of hatching and looking after their precious baby until she returns.

skill level

9” / 23 cm tall 3” /6 cm tall

dad baby

design by MOJI-MOJI DESIGN (JANINE HOLMES)

materials – dad

– Light worsted weight yarn in black (35 g / 100 m),

white (25 g / 70 m), dark orange (15 g / 40 m),

light orange (10 g / 30 m), dark yellow (5 g / 15 m),

light yellow (5 g / 15 m), gray (5 g / 15 m)

– Clear safety eyes with black center (12 mm)

materials – baby + carriage

– Light worsted weight yarn in black (10 g / 30 m),

white (20 g / 55 m), dark orange (5 g / 15 m), light

orange (leftover), gray (10 g / 30 m)


– 2 pipe cleaners

– Plastic drinking straw

– Decorative button, approx 1 cm diameter

– 4 x 0,5 cm buttons for center of wheels

both

– Size 3.25 mm / D-3 crochet hook

– Polyester fiberfill

– Yarn needle

– Sewing needle

105

NOTE: To make the eyes shine brighter paint the backs with a

coat of silver nail polish.

PAPA PENGUIN

HEAD AND BODY (start in dark orange yarn)






Rnd 6 – 15: sc in all 30 st [30]

Change to light orange yarn.

Rnd 16 – 18: sc in all 30 st [30]

Change to dark yellow yarn.


Rnd 20 – 21: sc in all 36 st [36]

Change to light yellow yarn.





Rnd 25 – 47: sc in all 42 st [42]

Stuff the head and body. Do not cut the yarn.

First leg

We continue crocheting with the attached yarn.

Rnd 1: sc in next 21 st, skip next 21 st [21]

Now we continue working in the 21 st from round 1 only.





Stuff the leg.




of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Fasten

off, weave in the yarn end.

Second leg

Rnd 1: Leaving a long yarn tail at the beginning, pull

up a loop of white yarn in the stitch immediately to

the left of the first leg. Ch 1 (does not count as a st),

sc in same st as joined yarn, sc in each remaining st

around [21]

Rnd 2 – 6: follow the pattern and instructions for rounds

2 – 6 of the first leg.

Use the yarn tail you left at the beginning of the second

leg to sew closed the gap between the legs.

FOOT (make 2, in gray yarn)







Rnd 8: (slst in next st, 4 ch, slst in second ch from hook,

sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, slst in next st) repeat 6

times [6 spikes made]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the main

part of the foot. Oversew the edges of the toes to-

gether in three pairs. Sew the feet to the bottom of the legs.

TAIL (in black yarn)






Rnd 6: (sc in next 3 st, inc in next st) 3 times [15]



Rnd 9 – 11: sc in all 21 st [21]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff the tail

and oversew the top of the tail flat. Place the tail at the

back of the penguin so that the pointed end is level with

the bottoms of the feet. Sew to the body along the flat

edge at the top of the tail. Your stitches should follow

the dotted line in picture 2.

BEAK, FACE AND BACK PANEL (start in light orange yarn)















Rnd 14 – 15: sc in all 30 st [30]


Rnd 17 – 19: sc in all 36 st [36]


Row 1: slst in next 2 st, sc in next 14 st, slst in next 2 st,

ch 1, turn [18]

Row 2 – 5: slst in next 2 st, sc in next 14 st, slst in next

2 st, ch 1, turn [18]

Row 6 – 7: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 5 st,

dec 2 times, sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next st,

ch 1, turn [18]

Row 8: sc in all 18 st, turn, ch 1, turn [18]

Row 9: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, dec 2

times, sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, ch 1,

turn [18]


Row 11: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 5 st, dec 2

times, sc in next 5 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, ch 1, turn [18]

Row 12 – 15: 1 ch, sc in all 18 st, turn [18]

106

1 2 3

Row 16: sc in next st, inc in next st, sc in next 6 st, inc in

next 2 st, sc in next 6 st, inc in next st, sc in next st, ch 1,

turn [22]


Row 41: skip first st, sc in next 19 st, skip next st, sc in

last st, ch 1, turn [20]

















Row 50: skip first st, sc in next st, skip next st, sc in last

st, ch 1, turn [2]

Row 51: skip first st, sc in last st [1]

Fasten off, weave in the yarn end. Insert the 12 mm clear

safety eyes between rounds 13 and 14 with an interspace

of 9 stitches. Stuff the beak and face. Pin the chin in

place. Pin the back panel over the back of the penguin

(picture 3). Sew it in place using the black yarn and back

stitch around the chin and down both sides of the panel,

sewing the lower edges of the panel to the tail. Your

stitches should follow the dotted line in picture 3.

FLIPPER (make 2, in black yarn)








Rnd 11 – 13: sc in all 12 st [12]


Rnd 15 – 17: sc in all 15 st [15]


Rnd 19 – 23: sc in all 12 st [12]



the flipper. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn tail

through the front loop of each remaining stitch and

pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn end. Sew the top

rounded edge of the flippers to the upper sides of the

back panel, with the top of the flippers level with the top

row of light orange on the body.

107

BABY PIERRE

HEAD AND BODY (start in white yarn)




Rnd 4 – 7: sc in all 18 st [18]





Insert 6 mm black safety eyes in between rounds 4 and 5


Rnd 10 – 14: sc in all 21 st [21]


Rnd 16 – 17: sc in all 18 st [18]


Stuff the head and body.




remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Weave in the yarn

end. Sew a decorative button to Pierre's tummy.

CAP (in black yarn)




Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 18 st [18]

Rnd 6: hdc + dc in next st, 2 tr in next st, dc + hdc in next

st, sc in next st, slst in next st [8] Do not finish the round.

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Position cap on

top of penguin's head and sew in place with the pointed

part of the cap at the center front and the back of the

cap touching the single black stripe on the neck.

BEAK (in light orange yarn)



Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Do not stuff.

Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn tail through the

front loop of each remaining stitch and pull it tight to

close. Weave in the yarn end. Sew the beak to the center

of the face just below the pointed part of the cap.

FLIPPER (make 2, in gray yarn)



Fasten off, leaving a long yarn tail for sewing. Do not

stuff. Oversew the tops of the flippers closed. Sew to the

sides of the body just below the single black stripe on

the neck.

108

FOOT (make 2, in black yarn)




Row 1: Fold work in half and placing all stitches through

both sides to join. Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in next

3 st, turn [3]

Row 2: (3 ch, slst in st at base of 3 ch, slst in next st) repeat

2 times, 3 ch, slst in st at base of 3 ch [3 toes made]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the feet to

the base of the penguin.

EGG SHELL BUGGY

HANDLE

Cut two 18 cm lengths of pipe cleaner. Holding the

lengths together, bind a doubled up strand of black yarn

tightly around the pipe cleaners, securing both ends with

a knot. Bind a doubled up strand of orange yarn tightly

around the middle 2.5" /6 cm of the pipe cleaner, over

the black yarn. Sew the ends of the orange yarn inside the

black binding for a neat finish.

INNER SHELL (in white yarn)






Rnd 6 – 10: sc in all 32 st [32]

Rnd 11: (slst in next st, 5 ch, slst in second ch from hook,

hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, skip next 2 st, slst in next st)

repeat 8 times [8 spikes made]


OUTER SHELL (in white yarn)

Rnd 1 – 10: follow rounds 1 – 10 of the inner shell pattern.


Rnd 12: follow pattern for round 11 of inner shell.


With the wrong sides facing, place the inner shell inside

the outer shell, lining up the points. Place the ends of

the handle in between the two layers of the shell on

either side of the carriage. Three of the points on the

rim of the shell should be behind the handles and five

points should be in front. Pin in place and oversew the

shell edges together all the way around, putting an

extra stitch or two through the place where the handles

emerge from the shell.

WHEEL (make 4, start in dark orange yarn)






With a strand of white yarn, embroider a line of running

stitches in between rounds 2 and 3. Weave in the ends on

the back of the wheel. Sew a small button to the center of

each wheel.

CHASSIS POLE (make 2, in white yarn)

Rnd 1: leaving a long tail at the beginning, start 6 sc in a

magic ring [6]

Rnd 2 – 9: BLO sc in all 6 st [6]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert the plas-

tic drinking straw into the tube. Using your yarn needle,

weave the yarn tail through the front loop of each

remaining stitch and pull it tight to close. Use the yarn

tails to sew the center back of each wheel to the ends of

the chassis poles. Sew the chassis poles to the underside

of the eggshell carriage. (picture 4, 5)

109

4 5

110

Frida made a nice little sling for her baby girl, so she can carry her at any time. Little monkeys are very

lively and fast – Frida must be careful, because if she doesn't hold her firmly, little Lila wriggles out of her

cocoon and crawls into her mom's hair!

skill level

11” / 28 cm tall 3” /8 cm tall

mom baby

design by JAMAICA Y TAMARINDO

materials – mom

– Light worsted weight yarn in beige (10 g / 30 m),

light brown (35 g / 100 m), red (10 g / 30 m), white

(leftover), yellow (leftover), pink (leftover),

fuchsia (leftover) and violet (leftover)

– Size 4 mm / G-6 crochet hook


materials – baby + sling

– Fingering weight yarn in beige (5 g / 15 m),

light brown (15 g / 45 m) and some colorful bits

for the tiny flowers


– 2 tiny black plastic beads

– Stretch fabric

– Sewing needle and thread

both


– Yarn needle

– Stitch markers

– Optional: Felting needle

– Optional: Yarn glue

111

MOM FRIDA

NOTE: Use worsted weight yarn and a 4 mm crochet hook.

SNOUT (in beige yarn)




Rnd 4: sc in next st, inc in next st, (sc in next 2 st, inc in

next st) repeat 6 times, sc in last st [28]


Rnd 6: sc in next 2 st, inc next st, (sc in next 4 st, inc in

next st) repeat 6 times, sc in next 2 st [42]

Rnd 7 – 10: sc in all 42 st [42]




Start with the first leg.



Rnd 3 – 24: sc in all 12 st [12]

Fasten off and weave in the yarn ends.

Create a second leg just like the first. Don't fasten off the

second leg, we will continue working on this leg. Stuff

the legs firmly with fiberfill to support the weight of the

body and head.

Optional: To achieve firmer legs you can use a felting

needle and felt the fiberfill as you stuff the piece.

BODY AND HEAD (in light brown yarn)

Hold both legs together, making sure the leftover loop at

the end of the second leg is where the legs meet (picture 1).

Using your yarn needle join the legs through their center

by making a small, firm stitch using the same color yarn

(picture 2). Now continue crocheting all around the

joined legs.


Rnd 2: sc in next 10 st, inc 4 times, sc in the next 10 st [28]


Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 35 st [35]


Rnd 7 – 9: sc in all 35 st [35]


Rnd 11 – 12: sc in all 28 st [28]



Rnd 15: (sc in next 2 st, dec) repeat 5 times, sc in last st [16]

Stuff the body firmly with fiberfill and continue stuffing

as you go.

Rnd 16 – 25: sc in all 16 st [16]

Stuff the neck firmly with fiberfill to support the weight

of the head.

Optional: To achieve firmer parts you can use a felting

needle and felt the fiberfill as you stuff the piece.

In the next round we will attach the snout to the body.

Rnd 26: sc in next 4 st. Count 8 st and mark the next

stitch using a stitch marker. You now have 8 central st

from your last stitch to your marker (picture 3). Take

the beige snout and count 8 st from the last st. Mark

the next stitch with a stitch marker (picture 4). Now

hold both pieces together, matching the 8 stitches

between the markers. Sew them together using your

yarn needle. (picture 5)

Take the leftover loop from the neck on your hook,

BLO sc in next 27 st on the snout, sc in last 4 st on the

neck [35] (picture 6)

Sew the snout to the neck with a stitch in the center and

tighten with a knot. (picture 7, 8)


10 st [30]

Rnd 28: sc in next 22 st, (sc in next st, inc in next st)

repeat 4 times [34]

Rnd 29 – 30: sc in all 34 st [34]

Rnd 31: sc in next 22 st, (sc in next 4 st, inc in next st)


Stuff the snout. Insert the safety eyes between rounds

27 and 28 with an interspace of 2 stitches.

Rnd 32 – 34: sc in all 36 st [36]

Stuff the head with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.


Rnd 36: sc in next 2 st, dec, (sc in next 3 st, dec) repeat

5 times, sc in the last st [24]




Fasten off. Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn tail

through the front loop of each remaining stitch and pull

it tight, closing off the top of the head.




Rnd 3 – 17: sc in all 10 st [10]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff only until

round 4. Sew the arms between rounds 13 and 14 of the

body.




Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Stuff firmly.

1 2 3 4

5 6 7 8

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Sew the tail to the back of the body, between rounds

5 and 6.










it tight, closing off the ear, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Flatten the ears, the ears do not need to be stuffed.

Sew them to either side of the head over rounds 27

to 30.

SKIRT (start in red yarn)

We continue in the leftover front loops of round 6 of the

body. Keep the legs directed away from you while you

crochet the skirt, so the pretty side of your crochetwork

will face outward. Join with red yarn in the first front

loop stitch of round 6 of the body.






Rnd 5: BLO sc in all 56 [56]

Slst in next st and fasten off. Weave in the yarn ends.

FLOWER (in red, yellow, pink, fuchsia and violet yarn)


Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in all 15 st [15]

Roll the piece to create the flower and sew together with

a small stitch at the back of the flower. Sew or glue the

flowers to the head, making a crown. (picture 9 – 12)

WRAP SLING (made of stretch fabric with a color of

your choice)

Cut 2 pieces of fabric measuring 8" / 20 cm long and

2.5" / 6 cm wide. Sew both pieces together (picture 13)

and turn them inside out (picture 14, 15). Turn one of

the ends to twist the shape (picture 16). Match the ends

and sew them together.

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13 14 15 16

9 10 11 12

BABY LILA

NOTE: Use Fingering weight yarn and 2.5 mm crochet hook.

SNOUT (in beige yarn)




Rnd 4: sc in next st, inc in next st, (sc in next 2 st, inc in

next st) repeat 4 times, sc in the last st [20]


Rnd 6: sc in next 2 st, inc next st, (sc in next 4 st, inc in

next st) repeat 4 times, sc in next 2 st [30]

Rnd 7 – 8: sc in all 30 st [30]




Start with the first leg.




Create a second leg just like the first. Don't fasten off the

second leg, we will continue working on this leg. Stuff

the legs with fiberfill.

BODY AND HEAD (in light brown yarn)

Hold both legs together and join with a slst.

Rnd 1: sc in the 14 st around both legs [14]

Rnd 2: sc in next 6 st, inc 2 times, sc in the next 6 st [16]

Rnd 3: (sc in next 3 st,inc in next st) repeat 4 times [20]

Rnd 4 – 5: sc in all 20 st [20]



Stuff the body with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.

Rnd 8 – 15: sc in all 12 st [12]

Stuff the neck firmly with fiberfill to support the weight

of the head. In the next round we will attach the snout

to the body. Take the snout and line it up with the body.

Match the 6 central stitches and sew them together using

your yarn needle.

Rnd 16: Take the leftover loop from the neck on your

hook, sc in next 25 st. Crochet in BLO over the snout to

achieve a neat finish [25]


6 st [22]

Rnd 18: sc in next 18 st, (sc in next st, inc in next st)

repeat 2 times [24]

Stuff the snout. Sew the black plastic beads between

rounds 16 and 17 in the center of the face with an inter-

space of 1 stitch.

Rnd 19 – 22: sc in all 24 st [24]

114

Stuff the head with fiberfill and continue stuffing as you go.


4 st [20]






it tight, closing off the top of the head. Weave in the yarn

end. With dark brown yarn, embroider a horizontal nose

underneath the eyes over 2 stitches. Embroider a straight

line from the center of the nose, one round down.




Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flatten the

arm. The arms do not need to be stuffed. Sew the arms

between rounds 7 and 8 of the body.



Row 1: start in second ch from hook, 4 sc in the next st,

2 sc in the next st, sc in next st, slst in next 9 st [18]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the tail to

the back of the body.



115


Rnd 3: slst in all 12 st [12]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Sew the ears on

either side of the head over rounds 16 to 18.

FLOWER (in red, yellow, pink, and violet yarn)


Row 1: start in second ch from hook, sc in all 8 st [8]

Roll the piece to create a flower and sew it together with

a small stitch at the back of the flower. Sew or glue the

flowers to the head, making a crown.

Patchwork Moose (Kate E Hancock)

United Kingdom

Kate makes the cutest little crochet

creatures to brighten up your day.

Amigurumi has drawn her into crochet. She saw

these adorable little creatures and knew she had

to learn to make them for herself.

Mevvsan (Mevlinn Gusick) Portugal

Mevlinn is a college graduate with a BFA in Fine Arts

Painting. Her interest in knitting and crochet begin when

her aunt showed her how to knit. It peaked her curiosity

and here she is today, crocheting amigurumi whenever

she gets the chance. Every day she makes something special

with her own hands and gives it to those she loves.

LittleAquaGirl (Erinna Lee) Australia

Erinna is a scientist by day and a crochet

lover by night. Until a year ago she had never

designed her own amigurumi. The competition

inspired her to try it the first time and with

great success! Her cute design made it to an

incredible third place in the contest.

Zabbez The Netherlands

Bas is always busy creating beautiful things that

make him and others happy. He is inspired by

nature, plants and flowers. Making amigurumi

puts him in a good mood. Each time he crochets

another round or changes to a new color, his

designs become more vivid and playful.

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Diceberry Designs (Maxine Velasco) United States

Maxine is a lover of all arts and crafts but she once

by passed crochet when it was taught in a

mandatory elementary class. Years later she was

thrilled to discover how this craft could bring her

sketches to life and knew this would be the start of a

lifelong passion for making her own stuffed toys.

Lia Arjono Indonesia

Lia loves crafting as much as she loves

cute things. When her mom intro

duced her to crochet, she immediately

fell in love with amigurumi and soon

began designing her own cute and

colorful characters.

Moji-Moji Design (Janine Holmes) United Kingdom

Janine has always loved working with yarns and fibers

and has a professional background in both woven

and printed textiles. Crochet is the most recent

addition to her list of skills and since discovering

the endless creative possibilities of amigurumi

it looks set to remain a definite favorite!

Enna Design (Emi Kanesada) United States

Emi is an Amigurumi artist with a background

in interior design and jewelry design. Her

creations are inspired by the Japanese 'Kawaii'

culture in her DNA. Her brain is always full of

fun imaginings and her hands are always busy

trying to keep up with them!

117

Tales of Twisted Fibers (Serah Basnet) Nepal

Serah decided she needed to learn to crochet after

discovering amigurumi three years ago. She has been

doodling character sketches and bringing them to life

with a hook ever since. Her mission is to spread

amigurumi love in her hometown Gangtok (India) and

in Kathmandu (Nepal) where she currently resides.

Stuff The Body Poland

Natalia loves crocheting but she does not like

assembling limbs, making parts fit to each

other, or sewing them together. That it why she

invented seamless crocheting. Every time she

finds a new way to seamlessly shape crochet

creatures, she feels like a winner!

Jamaica Y Tamarindo (Eugenia Arancibia)

Argentina

Eugenia loves all of the amigurumi she creates.

With just a ball of yarn, she can bring a character

to life. Seeing them grow and having people

react to her designs, makes her the happiest

designer in the world!

Kamlin Patterns Czech Republic

Katka can create almost anything

using her crochet hook and a ball

of yarn. She's inspired hundreds

of people to pick up a crochet hook

and create handmade toys for their

children.

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Joke Vermeiren Belgium

Joke started collecting patterns on amigurumipatterns.net

and compiled this book with care. She’s an enthusiast with a

heart for the creative and loves showing their work, helping

them get the word out about their new designs. She enjoys

picking up a crochet hook on a quiet winter evening. Ask her

anything through [email protected].

A special thank you goes out to everyone who participated in this contest and all amigurumi fans

around the world who voted for their favorite characters, to the 12 designers who participated

in this book and who were a joy to work with, to Bruno for helping me climb high mountains,

to Riet for being my 'chief assistant', to Joost for making the most amazing pictures, to Janine

for reading through the book with care, to everyone who volunteered as a proofreader to test

one of the English patterns (Ashton Kirkham, Jeana Clark, Alisha Lingle, Katie Courtney,

Kirsteen Stewart, Kristi Randmaa, Maria Marta Albala, Noah McLeroy, Serena Chew, Jill Con

stantine, Shelley Jones, Shir Reichert, Susan Mackie, Terry Rios, Melissa Campbell, Amanda

French, Iris Dongo, Roni Swiderski, Katie Strange, Michelle Donnelly, Lucy Fyles, Barbara

Roman), to printing house Graphius for their care, and to all my amazing Facebook fans for

their support and enthusiasm!

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mailto:[email protected]

Pictures made by proofreaders after trying the patterns from this book. Show your work on

facebook.com/AmigurumiPatterns.net or on instagram with #parentandbabyanimals.

http://www.facebook.com/Amigurumipatterns.net


Amigurumi Parent and Baby Animals Ebook3000

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