APPAREL INTERNSHIP at ARVIND, BENGALURU

By-Amrutha Alisary (01)

Department of Fashion TechnologyNational Institute Of Fashion Technology

CONTENTS

Company Profile The concept of Made to Measure Made to Measure in Arvind Departmental Study Project in Arvind Conclusion Bibliography

COMPANY PROFILE

• Arvind Mills was set up with the pioneering effort of the Lalbhai brothers in 1931.• With the best of technology and business acumen, Arvind has become a true

Indian multinational, having chosen to invest strategically, where demand has been high and quality required has been superlative.

• Today, the Arvind Mills Limited is the flagship company of Rs.20 billion (US$ 600 million) Lalbhai Group.

• Fore-vision and Technology has brought Arvind to be one of the top three producers of Denim in the world, and on its way becoming the Global Textile Conglomerate.

• In the early 1980s, the company brought denim into the domestic market, thus starting the jeans revolution in India.

• Arvind Brands Limited manufactures, brands, markets, distributes and retails garments In India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and the Middle East. It has a portfolio of eight brands which includes four international brands. Arvind Brands is one of the largest apparel manufacturing and marketing company in India with overall business size of USD 100 million at whole sale prices.

ARVIND’S MADE TO MEASURE (MTM)

Made to Measure: Concept of mass customization

• Made to measure typically refers to clothing that is sewn from a standard-sized base pattern.

• The fit of a made-to-measure garment is expected to be superior to that of a ready-to-wear garment, because ready-to-wear garments are constructed to fit the manufacturer's definition of an average customer, while made-to-measure garments are constructed to fit each customer individually.

• Typically, a made-to-measure garment will be more expensive than ready-to-wear garment but cheaper than a bespoke one.

• Made-to-measure also requires fewer fittings than bespoke, resulting in a shorter wait between customer measurement and garment delivery. There are basically 3 types of classifications.

Off the Rack or Ready to wear

Made to measure

Bespoke

Types of Mass Customization• In order to deliver products fast, mass customizers need flow manufacturing to

make products fast in small quantities and a spontaneous supply chain which can assure spontaneous availability of materials and make parts on-demand. There are three ways to customize products.

Modular Customization

Adjustable Customization

Dimensional Customization

Made to Measure today• Made to measure is a big thing today. It has been existent in the foreign market

since a decade now with brands as big as Gucci and Hermes using the technology to meet the needs of the customers.

• The sales of made to measure suits have taken off, growing to 25% of its business from 20% in recent years. In an effort to lure more first-timers to the category, brand as big as Brooks Brothers has priced a made-to-measure garment as low as $800.

• To attract fans of Italian designers, Saks, Neiman's and Barneys are pushing made-to-measure or custom suits from Giorgio Armani, Zegna, and Brioni in luxurious fabrics that will set a man back up to $4,000.

• With evolution of the e commerce, the big retailers in the fashion industry are using the opportunity to crack the code of acquiring customers by both growing technologies - Made to measure as well e-commerce.

Made to measure in India• The Indian apparel market is currently estimated to be around Rs 1 lakh crore, of

which about Rs30, 000 crore is ready-to-wear.• The Indian brands that offer Made to measure are :

Made to Measure in India

RAYMONDS

TAILORMAN

VAN HUESEN

LOUIS PHILIPPE

BOMBAY SHIRT COMPANY

CUSTOMIQUE

E-SHAKTI

P.N. RAO

MADE TO MEASURE IN ARVIND

• Creyate is start-up online Custom Clothing Brand launched by Arvind Internet Ltd (AIL). Kulin Lalbhai, the fourth generation of the Lalbhai family and Executive Director of Arvind Ltd.

• The company also aims to reach Rs 1000 cr revenue from E-commerce in 3 years. • Creyate strives to bring people to a fashion identity that is uniquely created by

them. They can create garments on a 3D visualisation engine, it’s like having a very own factory at our fingertips. With more than 100,000 unique products to create, this is the next generation of fashion retail.

Organizational Hierarchy

Made to Measure factories of Arvind

• There are two factories that produce the MTM garments of Arvind. • Arvind Fashions Limited : The factory is dedicated to the manufacturing process of

MTM garments. This factory manufactures men‘s and women‘s formal and casual shirts, men‘s and women‘s jeans and men‘s chinos.

• Arvind Goodhill : One of the two factories of Creyate producing MTM garments.

This factory is solely dedicated to the manufacturing of suits, blazers, formal trousers and waist coats.

PRODUCTS OF CREYATE MADE IN ARVIND FASHIONS LIMITED

• Formal shirts • Casual shirts • Denims • Chinos

Pictorial representation of some customised options available

DEPARTMENTAL STUDY

MERCHANDIZING DEPARTMENT

• Merchandising department handles all the incoming orders for AFL. Its duties include downloading and printing all the tech-packs for each individual order and each of their respective wash care labels.

CAD DEPARTMENT• CAD department uses the software Morgan to make all the patterns for each

order and also develop excel sheets of measurement for each order.After the tech-pack is passed to the CAD department, the measurements of each order is inputted into excel sheets for denims or shirts or chinos as per the order from the tech-packs.

CAD DEPARTMENT

MTM STORE• MTM store issues all fabrics and trims according to consumption mentioned in the

BOM. MTM store has racks for fabric storage and drawers for trim storage. There are eight fabric racks denoted as zones with eight different levels denoted as locations. The fabrics are segregated according to their designs namely solids, stripes, checks and prints.

MTM STORE

SPREADING-LABELLING-CUTTING DEPARTMENT

• The fabric issued is sent from the MTM store to the spreading-labelling-cutting department. In this section, firstly the fabric undergoes spreading.

• Machine used: Spreading-labelling-cutting continuous process machine• Make of machine: Morgan; Model: 203-10-180-50; Type: Fox; S/N: 792; Date

of production: 05/2013• For spreading, firstly a perforated brown paper is spread and then the fabric

on top of it. • Spreading is done manually for all orders as the spreading of only one layer of

fabric is required although a spreading machine is available. The fabric is placed and adjusted properly manually for the labelling to start.

• The labelling takes place when the marker plan, which is exported from the CAD department, is selected on the screen of the labelling machine. When selected, each garment part is labelled.

• When the labelling is completed, the fabrics are automatically sent to the cutting table by the conveyor belt.

• The cutting is also done automatically. • Once the fabrics are sent to the cutting table, the fabrics are covered with a plastic

cover from the roll of plastic at the starting side of the cutting table. • Once the fabrics are placed and plastic covers are placed over the fabrics, the

cutting machine vacuum is turned on such that while cutting, the fabrics stay in place. Once the vacuum is on, the marker plan exported from the CAD department is selected on the screen of the cutting machine.

• When selected, the cutting begins automatically according to the marker plan. • After cutting is completed, the plastic cover is cut at the end, vacuum is stopped

and the fabric cut parts are separated from the brown paper, plastic cover and the excess fabric.

• The cut parts are sent to the sorting section. For checked fabrics and for fabrics that have a printed pattern, cutting is done by hand so as to match the checks and to keep symmetry of the printed pattern.

• The check and printed fabrics are sent to a cutting operator along with the patterns.

• The cutting operator matches the checks and prints and cuts accordingly manually.

SORTING, EMBROIDERY AND FUSING DEPARTMENT

• The cut parts are sent to the sorting section from the cutting section. In the sorting section, the cut parts are sorted according to fusible parts, parts that needs to be embroidered and the other parts are kept in the MTM baskets along with the trims.

• In the sorting section, in addition to sorting, the cut parts are also double checked and an excel sheet is maintained recording all the orders that will be loaded to embroidery or fusing or sewing.

• The fusible cut parts are sent to the fusing section. In the fusing section, the fusible parts are kept on a sheet of interlining with the wrong side of the fabric kept on the resin side of the interlining.

• Once the fabrics are kept on the interlining, the bottom and the top part of the interlining is covered with paper such that the.

• Then the cut parts along with the interlining and paper covers are set on the fusing machine.

• The conveyor belt takes the cut parts into the fusing machine and fusing is completed under a pre-selected condition of temperature, pressure and speed of the machine.

• The parts that needed to be embroidered are sent to the embroidery section. The designs are developed on the computer and font and font size perfected.

• After embroidery is finished, the cut parts are sent to be loaded in the MTM basket and then to sewing. After sorting, fusing and embroidery, all the garment parts are brought together and kept in the appropriate MTM basket along with the techpack to be loaded in sewing.

SEWING DEPARTMENT• Sewing section includes three sewing lines, one for denim, one for chino and

one for shirts.• Each sewing machine operator is highly skilled and graded as A triple star

which is the best of the best among all sewing machine operators. • The sewing line is maintained as a make-through line, that is, one operator

makes one whole garment.• Each day, each sewing machine operator stitches three garments. It is the

minimum quota they have to meet.

MACHINE SPECIFICATION

Single needle lockstitch machine Juki DDL-9000B-SH, Brother S- 7200B-305, Siruba L818F-H1, Juki

DDL5530N, Brother 7200C-433, Juki DDL-9000B-MS

Overlock machine Juki MO-6714DA BE6-44H class, MO-

6716S FH6-

Push button stitch machine Sun star SL-26

Riveting machine NGai Shing development limited;

Model: 45

Bar-tack machine Juki LK-1900AN-HS

Keyhole machine Juki MEB Series MEB3810J

Feed of the arm machine Brother DA-9280-7

FINISHING AND MEASUREMENT CHECKING: FOR SHIRTS

• In this department, shirts are first sent for thread trimming and then finally for measurement checking along with the techpack and measurement chart.

• Threads are trimmed for better finishing and then taken to thread sucking machine where all the excess threads that were stuck on the garment due to static electricity are sucked in.

• In this section, the measurement of the shirts is checked against the measurement chart provided.

• Then they are taken to the spotting section, where spot clearance is done with the help of white petroleum.

• After white petroleum application, the surface is dried with a drier available along with the sprayer.

• The shirt is sent for ironing and then to the shirt folding machine.• Ironing and shirt folding ensures that there are no creases on the garment and

that the shirt is folded in such a way that it fits in the carton box respectively. After finishing, the shirts are sent for packaging.

FINISHING AND MEASUREMENT CHECKING: FOR BOTTOMS

• For bottoms, this department only takes care of initial thread trimming and measurement checking .

• Threads are trimmed as needed and then measurements checked against the measurement chart provided.

• Then the garments are sent to the stain removal section for removing any markings made on the fabric or for the removal of any other possible stains.

• The garments are then taken for washing. • After collecting the garments from washing, they are taken for after wash

measurement checking.• After wash measurement check is done to ensure that there are no drastic

changes in measurement of the garments due to shrinkage and if there are any deviations from the size chart provided, the garments are immediately rejected and issued for a remake.

• If there are no issues with the measurements, they are sent for ironing and then finally for packaging.

WASHING DEPARTMENT• Washing department is a part of the finishing department. • It is mainly used for bottoms. • There are two types of washing: wet wash and dry wash. • Dry washes are solely used for denims whereas wet washes are used both for

denims as well as chinos. • Dry washes include whiskering, PP spray and hand sanding. • Wet washes include rinse wash, enzyme wash, stone wash, Tinting, softening and

bleaching.

QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT• There is no prominent quality control department but there is a provision for

quality checking of the garments .• The quality control takes place in three phases: when fabric comes into the store

from vendors, before issuing the fabrics for sewing and after sewing of garments is finished.

• When fabric comes into the store from vendors, the fabrics are visually inspected on a visual inspection machine.

• During this process of inspection, fabric faults are marked with chalk for faster recognition of faults in the second stage of inspection.

• The next quality check up is done before the fabrics are issued for spreading and cutting. In this process, the fabric rolls to be issued are taken out and a visual inspection is done by an allotted worker upto a certain length.

• During the inspection, fabric faults are noted and those with major defects are avoided.

• The third stage of inspection takes place at the garment stage. In this stage of inspection, the garments are checked for measurements, stitches or any other visually noticeable errors on the garments.

• There is no in-line quality checking facilities.• The sewing machine operators themselves act as the in-line quality checkers.• As they stitch the garment, they constantly keep checking for mistakes.• The concept of not having an in-line quality checking is that if there are in-line

quality checkers, the sewing machine operators will have an excuse to make mistakes but if there are no in-line quality checkers, the frequency of errors will be less as the sewing machine operators will be solely responsible for any errors made.

PHOTOSHOOT DEPARTMENT• Photoshoot department has only one small section within the packaging

department.• The sole purpose of this department is to take photos of garments as a reference

for the customer as well for Creyate as future reference.• After a garment is sent for dispatch, the garment is taken for photoshoot. • The garment is either laid on the floor or draped on a bodice and then taken a

picture.• These photos are sent to the customers to notify them about their garment.• These photos are also kept as references by the factory and the Creyate

department in case any problems arise in the future regarding the garment.

PACKAGING DEPARTMENT• The packaging department is responsible for the packaging of the

garments that have come from finishing.• The packaging department takes the already issued packaging trims

required for a particular order from the store and packed the garments into it.

• The packaging trims for shirts as well as denims and chinos are the same. • For luxury shirts, the packaging trims include brown hangtags and carton

boxes.• For non-luxury shirts, the packaging trims include black hangtags and

carton boxes.• For denims, the packaging trims include black hangtags and carton boxes.• For chinos, the packaging trims include black hangtags and carton boxes.• Before packaging, the shirts are folded in shirt folding machine such that

the unnecessary folding does not leave crease marks.

LOGISTICS DEPARTMENT• The logistics department takes care of the dispatch of all the orders. • The logistics department issues the DC (delivery challan) for dispatching the

garments.• The garments are delivered through Pan India for delivery to other cities than

Bangalore and for deliveries carried out within Bangalore, a local courier is used.

• An excel sheet is maintained to keep a record of all the orders dispatched each day.

PROJECT IN ARVIND

“AN INTEGRATED APPROACH TO REDUCE ORDER RETURNS BY IMPLEMENTING PIVOT SAMPLES IN MTM .”

Research Approach

• This project aspires to identify relevant reorders and rejects causes in MTM business and methods to improve them. It is the authors’ ambition to attain results solid enough to reduce the reorders, company is facing by applying pivot method.

Work Process

The research is divided into four phases to study properly the causes of reorders and rejects and for easy understanding of reader, that are as follows-• Pre study and Problem Identification Phase• Data Collection Phase • Data Analysis phase• Solution Design Phase and Implementation Phase

Methodology approach

Data Collection Phase

• Order tracking – Study the production process of different products being produced from order received to order dispatch

• Product Quality – Detailed study of the products and the customization being offered.

• Past data collection – Collected information about the previous reorders and alterations.

Garment Wise Feedback

Garments

Total Garme

nts Deliver

ed

%

Garment

Feedback

Excellent

% Goo

d %

Average

% Bad % on Delivered

% on

Feedback Received

1964 1120 299 27% 238

21% 20 2% 565 29% 50%

Shirt 1138 58% 656 186

28% 160

24% 12 2% 299 26% 46%

Chinos 454 23% 272 72

26% 41

15% 3 1% 156 34% 57%

Jeans 372 19% 192 41

21% 37

19% 5 3% 110 30% 57%

Garments V/S Alteration & Reorders

Garment

Garment Feedback

Alteration/Reorder % Reorder % Alteration %

1120 267 24% 153 14% 151 13%

Shirt 656 140 21% 72 11% 68 10%

Chinos 272 73 27% 50 18% 23 8%

Jeans 192 54 28% 31 16% 23 12%

Alteration V/S Reorder Performance Month on Month

Garment Feedback

TOTAL Nov Dec Jan Feb March April

267 52 61 37 43 57 17

Chinos

Alteration 23 5 5 4 4 2 3

Reorder 50 8 15 3 7 12 5

Jeans

Alteration 23 6 2 3 3 6 3

Reorder 31 8 5 6 7 4 1

Shirt

Alteration 68 8 18 7 15 16 4

Reorder 72 17 16 14 7 17 1

Division Fault Breakup

Total Nov % Dec % Jan % Feb % March % April %

Total Garments 2900 216

296

304

389

641

468

Total Garments Delivered

2276 199

296

304

389

620

468

Alteration/Reorder 322 67 34% 69 23% 46 15% 48 12% 67 11% 25 5%

Measurement Mistake

178 34 51% 30 43% 27 59% 27 56% 44 66% 16 64%

Customer Preference

79 16 24% 23 33% 10 22% 15 31% 11 16% 4 16%

Production Mistake

46 12 18% 13 19% 4 9% 3 6% 10 15% 4 16%

Design error 9 1 1% 1 1% 3 7% 1 2% 2 3% 1 4%

Measurement reporting issue

7 3 4% 1 1% 1 2% 2 4% 0 0% 0 0%

Tech Error 3 1 1% 1 1% 1 2% 0 0% 0 0% 0 0%

Garments V/S Alteration & Reorders Rate

• Garment alteration/ reorder rate is 23%: Data source: Weekly analysis report(14th November to 30th April)

• Shirt: 21%• Chinos: 27%• Denims: 28%

Product Analysis- • Detailed Product Analysis stage of Reorders/Rejects. Understanding the feedbacks

of the reorder garments.• On Defining defects, frequency and department responsible for the same. Root

cause Analysis of those defects is carried out.• Rejection process are much higher because of Fit and Quality issues.• Reorders due to Lack of Standardization in Measurement taking process are high.• Measurement taking process differs for every style steward.

Several garments and customer feedbacks for returns or rejects were analyzed, and it was concluded that most of the problems were either of measurement mistakes or are of Production Mistake. Measurement Mistakes Customer shows dissatisfaction regarding their fit, it is majorly caused due to Style steward measuring style, or due to miscommunication in CAD department or due to measurement understanding problem by sewing operators. Production Mistake Cause of returns or rejects includes production problems like- Fabric defect, fabric exchanged, wrong trims attachment, site bugs, lack of quality checks and no proper SOPs defined for different styles.

How to Tackle these Problems

Measurement Problem

Introduction of Pivot samples in taking Measurements. Several Size sets will be made depending upon several tryons at different body types.• Pivot samples- Pivot samples will be used to get closest fit of the customer

measurement by determining customer size drop. Production Problem• Setting up Inline Quality check points in-between sewing operations, setting up

SOP to carry out specific job. Development of Re-order tracking system.

SOLUTION PHASE• By analysing previous months data, it was observed that order

rejects/reorders are arising due to measurement/fit problem, low level of responsive manufacturing system or late delivery system.

• Company is coming with new concept i.e Pivot samples are more accurate to take measurements of the customers in order to reduce measurement and fit issues in orders.

• There was Lack of Standardization in Measurement taking process, every style steward view measurement criteria from different perspective.

MTM (Made To Measure)

• In MTM business there is no overview of the fit and look of the garment is available.

• New patterns are made accordingly as per customer measurement.• Fit of the Garment may vary after production due to lack in measuring standards

followed by Style Stewards.• Re-order issues are higher due to fit problems.

MTO(Made To Order) • Pivot Samples will be made available in the stores to try in different fit options

like Slim, Tailored, Regular, e.t.c • Alterations are done as per closest size fit to the customer very wisely.• Base patterns are already ready for each size for the ease of developing

pattern.• A customer will feel more satisfied by trying Pivot Sample himself/herself for

the fit that minimizes re-orders.

What is a pivot?

• It is a fundamental insight of the Lean Startup.• A pivot may mean you changed your customer segment, your channel,

revenue model/pricing, resources, activities, costs, partners, customer acquisition – lots of other things than just the product.

• “Pivoting” is when you change a fundamental part of the business model.• Pivot Samples will be developed after multiple trials of different brands

garments on different people and noting down the appropriate sizes.

Understanding the FIT • In custom shirt selection process Options here include slim fit, tailored fit, and

regular fit. Many people will default to a selection that they think “fits” them in their mind. There are some subtle and other not so subtle differences between the cuts, and its not just about body size, that’s what the individual measurements are for.

The difference between a slim and regular fit

• The fit of office shirt matters because it is usually worn tucked in. The size of body determines the fit that flatters most, not what most people are wearing these days. Purchasing a fitting shirt doesn’t mean to opt for a slim-fit to “fit your body better”.

• Below highlights the general differences between slim and regular fit shirts to help decide which fit to go for.

Slim fit • If the shape of body belongs to categories such as “skinny”, “slender”, “lean” or “slim”, then person most

probably need a slim fit. People of these categories have a tendency to find tucked in shirts spilling out, giving a muffin-like appearance. The sides of slim fit shirts are tapered (crescent-like curves instead of straight down the sides) as a solution. To compensate for the thinner midsection, the sleeves are now tighter as well.

• Have shirts cut in a slim fit for a more athletic type of fit. Customer will find these to be almost form fitting to the body, with higher arm holes and narrower sleeves. The cut to the body will be much more slim.

Tailored fit • These are not as form fitting as the slim fit shirts, but are still shaped more for the body. Not loose, but

not tight either, these are a more comfortable option with less restrictive arm holes. If you need to look your best daily, but your job has you moving around a lot, this might be a better option.

Regular fit • If customer belong to the beefier category, muscle or not, he should be considering a regular fit. The

common misconception is to confuse regular fit with the classic or relaxed fit. While the regular fit will be a good match for the average body size, the classic fit adds more material for an airy feel and utility. The regular fit can still be tapered to body while leaving the right amount of room to breathe in.

Fits(no. of garments)

Production location

Final garment ready date

Men

Shirts (25)

Regular (9) MTM 25-06-2015

Tailored (8) E-City 25-06-2015

Slim (8) MTM 25-06-2015

Chinos (11)

Regular (7) MTM/AFL sampling 20-07-2015

Slim (6) MTM/AFL sampling 20-07-2015

Denims (22)

Regular (7) MTM/AFL sampling 20-07-2015

Tapered (9) MTM/AFL sampling 20-07-2015

Slim (6) MTM/AFL sampling 20-07-2015

Sampling Technique

• The Sampling Technique used in this research is Random Sampling. Random sampling is a probability sampling technique where subjects is subsets of individuals chosen from a larger set(a population). Each individual is chosen randomly and entirely by chance, such that individual has the same probability of being chosen at any stage during the sampling process and each subset of k individuals has the same probability of being chosen for the sample as any other subset of k individuals.

• The following brands were chosen for trial exercises.

Product Brand Fit Chinos Allen solly Slim Color plus Regular Denim Levis Regular v.dot Slim Shirt LP Regular LP Tailored Zara Slim

For Men’s shirts

• After the trials were completed, final measurement sheet was prepared using the corrections observed in shirts, denims and chinos.

• A single set of samples of all fits for shirts went for production for pilot test in AFL.• After the trials of samples, corrections were made and it went for mass production

to cater the needs of different stores in Arvind Exports.

FINAL MEASUREMENT CHART

• After several measurement trial exercises, following are the findings and as per the deviations found it is amended accordingly for the development bulk production of samples for stores.

• Quality check was done for the samples and sent to stores.• Style stewards were given training on how to take measurements using the

samples.• Changes in techpack for the CAD department and sewing operators

38 39 40 41 42 43 44 46 481 NECK 15 1/4 15 1/2 15 3/4 16 16 3/8 16 3/4 17 1/4 18 18 3/42 CHEST 43 1/2 44 1/2 45 1/2 46 1/2 47 1/2 49 50 1/2 54 55 1/23 WAIST 41 42 1/2 44 45 1/4 46 1/2 48 50 54 554 SWEEP 41 43 44 45 1/4 46 1/2 48 50 54 555 SHOULDER 18 1/4 18 1/2 18 3/4 19 1/4 19 3/4 20 20 1/4 20 1/2 216 ARMHOLE 20 1/2 21 21 1/2 22 1/4 22 1/2 23 3/4 25 25 1/2 267 BICEP 16 1/2 17 1/4 18 18 1/2 19 20 1/4 21 1/2 22 228 SLEEVE LENGTH 23 3/4 24 3/8 25 25 3/8 25 3/8 25 3/4 26 26 269 CB LENGTH 29 29 1/2 29 1/2 30 30 30 1/4 31 3/4 31 3/4 32 1/4

10 FRONT LENGTH FROM SS 27 5/8 28 1/8 28 1/8 28 5/8 28 5/8 28 7/8 30 3/8 30 3/8 30 7/811 CUFF END TO END 9 9.5 10 10.25 10.5 10.75 11 11.5 12

Garment Specs - FIT:REGULAR

38 39 40 41 42 43 44 461 NECK 15 1/4 15 5/8 15 7/8 16 3/8 16 3/4 17 1/4 17 3/4 18 1/42 CHEST 40 41 1/2 43 44 1/2 46 47.5 49 51 1/23 WAIST 37 1/2 39 40.5 41 3/4 43 44 3/4 46.5 504 SWEEP 40 41 1/4 42.5 44 45.5 47.25 49 525 SHOULDER 17 1/2 17 7/8 18 3/8 18 7/8 19 3/8 20 20 5/8 21 7/86 ARMHOLE 19.5 19 3/4 20.5 21 1/4 22 22 3/8 22 3/4 23 1/27 BICEP 15 15 1/8 15 5/8 16 16 3/8 16 3/8 17 7/8 18 7/88 SLEEVE LENGTH 24 3/4 25 1/4 25 1/2 25 1/2 25 1/2 25 3/4 26 26 1/29 CB LENGTH 30 1/8 30 1/2 30 3/4 31 31 31.5 31 3/4 32 3/4

10 FRONT LENGTH FROM SS 28 1/2 28 7/8 29 1/8 29 3/8 29 5/8 29 7/8 30 1/8 31 1/811 CUFF END TO END 9 9.5 10 10.375 10 3/4 11.25 11.75 12

Garment Specs - FIT:TAILORED

38 39 40 41 42 43 44 461 NECK 15 15 3/8 15 3/4 16 1/4 16 3/4 17 1/8 17.5 17 1/22 CHEST 39 3/4 40 3/4 41 3/4 43 1/4 44 3/4 45 3/4 46 3/4 48 1/43 WAIST 36.75 37.75 38.75 40.25 41.75 43.25 43.5 45.754 SWEEP 40 41 42 43.5 45 46.5 46.5 495 SHOULDER 17 3/8 17 5/8 17 5/8 18 1/4 18 3/4 19 1/4 19 3/4 206 ARMHOLE 19 1/4 19 3/4 20 1/4 20 7/8 21.5 22 1/8 22.5 237 BICEP 14 3/4 15 15 1/4 15 3/4 16 1/4 16 3/4 17 1/4 17 3/48 SLEEVE LENGTH 26 26 26 26 26 26 26 1/4 26 1/49 CB LENGTH 29 1/4 29 5/8 30 30 1/4 31 31 31.5 32 1/8

10 FRONT LENGTH FROM SS 27 7/8 28 1/4 28 5/8 28 7/8 29 5/8 29 5/8 30 1/8 30 3/411 CUFF END TO END 9 1/2 9 3/4 10 10 1/4 10 1/2 10 3/4 11 11.5

Garment Specs - FIT:SLIM

• Size set garments were manufactured in-house in AFL or Arvind Exports.• Fabric used in Making samples were used from existing stock which were unsold

till now and removed from the range.• Trims were also used from existing stock. RESULTS• In house fits are generated by market survey on fit analysis, recording of the

measurement deviations and fit finalization after several trial exercise on different bodytypes.

• After implementation of Pivot model, following are the points which are noticeable.

1st APRIL TILL 4TH may

Breakup TOTAL MTM % MTO %

Total Orders 475 400 75

Total Garments 499 410 89

Total Garments Delivered 398 353 45

Garments Feedback Received 126 105 21

Excellent 35 28% 28 27% 7 33%

Good 18 14% 14 13% 8 38%

BAD 73 58% 63 60% 6 29%

Alteration/Reorder 60 15% 58 16% 2 4%

Refund 2 3% 2 3% 0 0

• Out of 21 orders 15 reported to have positive feedback on measurement.

• Customers are delighted with this concept, as they are able to perceive how that garment is going to look on them.

• Only 2 reorders till now in which 1 was due to SLA breach.• Pivot Model Concept has rationalized several body mistakes.• Easy for the CAD department in making patterns and adding

ease rules.

• Easy for the Style stewards in taking measurements.

ADVANTAGES OF THE PROJECT• Creyate is experienced based company to make customer feel delight. • Following are the advantages of this project.• Pivot Model Concept has rationalized several body measurement mistakes.• No rejects were faced due to measurement Mistakes.• Act as diversified channel for revenue generation.• Works on Ease and tolerance basis.• Helps in determining the closest best possible fit for customer.• Customer is delighted to know and is able to perceive how that garment is

going to look and fit to his/her body.• Fashion adaptive business model.

ADVANTAGES OF THE PROJECT• Reduction of rejects and reorders can be seen after implementation of Pivot

concept.• Pivot concept helps in providing one angle measurement for all style stewards.• From Customer’s Feedback it can be seen that customer is much more satisfied

with this concept than earlier.• Accurate and Efficient way of recording Measurements.• Its innovative sales technique to increase sales and gain in terms of profit for the

company.• One dimensional or standardized measurement taking process.• Time saving if compared to MTM.

LIMITATIONS OF THE PROJECT-

• The scope is limited to the following categories– Men’s Shirt, Men’s Chinos and denims.

• First and foremost limitation of this project is that Style stewards has to carry several size sets when providing home visits.

• Cost include in production of those size set pivot samples is more.• Bulkier baggage for carrying these size sets interrupts convenience of Style Stewards.• Trained style steward iterations.• Any Pivot sample cannot represent the fabric qualities of whole segment/collection.• Very High price range.• Competitors threat from present and upcoming MTM concepts.• Labour market rigidities.• Quick obsolesce of technologies and softwares.• Shift from MTM to Bespoke business is another threat.• Lack of Skilled personnels.

CONCLUSION

• Mass customization is penetrating within many industrial sectors ranking from products to services such as lifestyle products and clothing.

• Globalization and mass customization is the major direction for future development in the clothing industry. Then only the following scenario is possible: ‘the design is designed in Paris, the fabric bought in Hong Kong and Japan and the garment produced in India.

• India is still at budding stage of mass customization but still companies like Raymonds and Arvind are striving to achieve made to measure business.

• It enables control of offshore manufacturing and solves problems such as large distances and long distribution times in a market situation requiring fast response.

BIBLIOGRAPHY• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Made_to_measure• http://www.realmenrealstyle.com/bespoke-made-to-measure/• http://magazine.wsj.com/fashion/fashion-style/male-order/• Karen L. LaBat, October1, 2013 Body Cathexis and Satisfaction with Fit of Apparel • Graduate Theses and Dissertations Iowa State University Digital Repository @ Iowa State University

“2013 Exploring consumers' fit perceptions and satisfaction with apparel fit in general Eonyou Shin.”• Teri Agins In 2002, “Suit Sellers Size Up A Niche With Made-To-Measure ClotheS”

http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB1036702596796871108• High-street labels like Armani, Gucci & Zegna roll out made-to-measure outfits Vijaya Rathore, ET

Bureau Apr 11, 2013, 05.47AM IST http://articles.economictimes.indiatimes.com/2013-04-11/news/38463310_1_canali-ermenegildo-zegna-mtm

• Marivi Avalos April 10, 2012 09:47

http://fashionbi.com/newspaper/why-e-commerce-is-becoming-a-must-in-the-fashion-industry• http://www.build-to-order-consulting.com/mc.htm • MASS CUSTOMIZATION, the Proactive Management of Variety By Dr. David M. Anderson, P.E., CMC

Build-to-Order Consulting,Excerpts from the Book: Build-to-Order & Mass Customization • How technology can drive the next wave of mass customization February 2014 | by Anshuk Gandhi,

Carmen Magar, and Roger Roberts http://www.infolyst.net/home/index.php/analytics-knowledge

BIBLIOGRAPHY• JP Gownder on July 8, 2011

http://blogs.forrester.com/jp_gownder/11-07-08-its_time_for_mass_customized_clothing_and_apparel_products • Anshul Dhamija, TNN | Mar 4, 2014, 12.28AM IST “Lalbhai Jr bets on custom clothing for e-comm”

http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/business/india-business/Lalbhai-Jr-bets-on-custom-clothing-for-e-comm/articleshow/31356910.cms

• Hein Daanen, Sung Ae Hong, (2008) "Made to measure pattern development based on 3D whole body ‐ ‐ ‐scans", International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, Vol. 20 Iss: 1, pp.15 – 25

• http://www.esquire.com/blogs/mens-fashion/proper-suit-custom-made-to-measure-suit-review-020413 “TECHNOLOGY MEETS TRADITION: CUSTOM TAILORING FROM PROPER SUIT” By Max Berlinger on February 4, 2013

• M. M.Rahman and A.K.M. Masud(2011) “Quality Improvement In Garments Industry Through TQM Approach” International Conference on Mechanical Engineering 2011 http://www.buet.ac.bd/me/icme/icme2011/Proceedings/PDF/ICME%2011-RT-044.pdf

• Mass Customization: The Future of Manufacturing-New technology and changing customer demands are shifting entrenched production systems. And that's great news for SMEs Joe Castaldo || April 21, 2014.

• Annon, (Sept. 1995), ‘Tailor-Made for the Masses: Will Customers be Satisfied with one-to-one Marketing Method?’ Marketing Today

• Summers (Sept.1996), ‘Levi Strauss to Launch Personally Tailored Jeans’,Financial Times.• Vogue (1997), ‘Forecasting on Mass Customisation’.• Ward, D. (June/July 1997), ‘Advanced Software’, Apparel International.• World Clothing Manufacturer (Dec./Jan. 1997), ‘ CAD/CAM in Industry’ World Clothing Manufacturer. • http://davidjamesagency.com/uncategorized/communicating-pivot/