Almohadon 01

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Step 1) Gather your materials. I purchased 1 1/4 yds. of suedecloth that kinda has a similar sheen and texture as velvet (or so I tell myself... I refused to buy expensive actual velvet or the Christmasy crushed panne stuff). I also bought a 16-inch round pillow form, thread, a long upholstery needle (5") to help tuft the pillow, and a cover button kit with two 1 1/4 inch buttons. Step 2) Cut two rectangles of fabric that each measure 38.75" x 16". Step 3) Time to create grid of dots that will serve as your smocking pattern. Be sure to mark on the wrong side of both pieces. There will be five columns and 30 rows of dots on each rectangle. The column of dots begin 5 1/2 inches from each long edge, and the rows begin 1 1/4 inches from the short edges, and are spaced 1 1/4 inches onward. The dots will therefore form squares with sides that are all 1 1/4 inches long. Hard to see, but I used a regular pencil to mark my grid. Be sure your pencil or marker doesn't bleed or show through on the right side, as some of the dots will remain un-pintucked and therefore visible on the other side when the pillow's finished.

Transcript of Almohadon 01

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Step 1) Gather   your  materials. I   purchased   1 1/4 yds. of suedecloth that kinda has a similar sheen   and   texture   as   velvet   (or   so   I   tell myself...   I   refused   to   buy   expensive   actual velvet or the Christmasy crushed panne stuff). I also   bought   a   16-inch   round   pillow   form, thread,  a  long upholstery needle (5")  to help tuft the pillow, and a cover button kit with two 1 1/4 inch buttons.

Step 2) Cut   two rectangles  of   fabric   that  each measure 38.75" x 16".

Step 3) Time to create grid of dots that will serve as your smocking pattern. Be sure to mark on the wrong side of both pieces. There will be five columns and 30 rows of dots on each rectangle. The column of dots begin 5 1/2 inches from each long edge, and the rows begin 1 1/4 inches from the short edges, and are spaced 1 1/4 inches onward. The dots will therefore form squares with sides that are all 1 1/4 inches long.Hard to see, but I used a regular pencil to mark my grid. Be sure your pencil or marker doesn't bleed  or   show through  on  the   right   side,  as   some of   the  dots  will   remain  un-pintucked  and therefore visible on the other side when the pillow's finished.

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Step 4)  Draw diagonals  on   the  grid   to   show where the fabric will be gathered (pintucked). In  the  leftmost  column,  the diagonals  will  be drawn from the top right of one "box" to the bottom left. A box will be skipped in between, as   the   diagonals   alternate   directions   and column  placement  down   each   row.   This  will look   like   a   lattice   smocking   pattern,   except backwards, if you've ever done that:In the photo above, the horizontal lines I drew were a previous effort to make my dot-marking process faster (I stopped measuring and began eye-balling   it   after   awhile).   So,   those   have nothing   to   do   with   how   everything   will   be sewn.Step 5) This is the only time you'll use a sewing machine. With right  sides  together,   stitch the two rectangles together at the two short sides. Trim the seam. This will create a large loop like an   infinity   scarf.   If   everything  was  measured properly,   a   5/8   in.   seam   allowance   should make it so the dots are still spaced 1 1/4 inches apart across the seam. Some of your diagonals will have to cross the seams to ensure that the smocking pattern continues evenly all the way around the edge of the pillow:

Step 6) Double-thread your hand needle so the thread is less likely to break. You can also use quilting   thread,   upholstery   thread   or something else more durable. Begin on a row at the top of one of the rectangle sides. You'll be smocking downward along the column, not across   the  row.  Begin  by   sliding  your  needle through   the   second   dot   from   the   left,   from right to left. Bring it all the way through, so that the knot at the end of the thread is stopped:Secure the stitch by passing through one more time.

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Step 7) Stitch   through   the   dot   that   is connected  by   the diagonal.  The diagonal   line indicates   that   this   needs   to   be   gathered. Gather the fabric by pulling tautly so the two stitches meet.

Secure the gathered stitch.

Step 8) Moving downward, stitch through the dot that connects the next diagonal below the one you just gathered. Let that stitch lay flat. Secure   it   so   you   don't   accidentally   pull   or gather it.

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Step 9) Stitch   the   dot   that   connects   the diagonal   --   since   there's   a   drawn   line   there, gather that stitch. Secure it.

Step 10) Continue this method down the entire length  of  both  rectangles.  When your   thread gets   short,   just   knot   it,   re-thread   and   start where you left off. You're essentially following this initial pattern, where the numbers indicate the   order   in   which   to   stitch   your   needle through the dots:

You'll be doing the same sort of the thing for the subsequent columns, except for the second and fourth columns you'll be gathering the dots in the opposite direction.

Here's what one gathered column looks like on the wrong side of the fabric:

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Step 11) Working   on   a   flat   surface,   fit   your pillow form into the smocked loop.

To   create   pleats,   Follow   the   folds   that   the smocked edge created.  This   is  pretty easy   to figure out based on how the fabric lays.

Step 12) Pinch the ends of each pleat and stitch through,   about   1/4   in.   from   the   raw   edge. Continue stitching around the circle of pleats, making   sure   the   pleats   lay   in   the   same direction. Pull  tautly so all  the edges meet in the   middle,   but   not   too   tightly   that   the smocked part gets pulled down from the edge of the pillow form. Once you get around the way around,  secure   the   thread so  the  pleats stay snug.

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Step 13) Do the same thing on the other side. This  may  be   trickier   since   the   cover  will   be pretty snug around the pillow form.

Step 14) Now, with the buttons still off, tuft the pillow if desired. This creates the "dip"  in the center  of   the  pillow on  both  sides  by  tightly stringing thread through the stuffing. I did this using a 5" upholstery needle, which was long enough to hold onto while I pushed it through the other side of the pillow. I probably ran the thread through each side about a dozen times to  make   sure   the   tuft  was   secure.  Knot   this tightly once you're satisfied with the tuft.

Step 15) Cover your buttons with small circles of leftover pillow fabric. Or, an alternative is to buy matching or decorative buttons that you'd like to put in the middle of the pillow. I've only ever  covered buttons  with messy  fabric  glue, but decided this time to get a button cover kit that came with two 1 1/4 inch buttons and a little   gadget   for   snapping   the   back   on   the button to hide the fabric edges in between. I bought this thing for under $3 at Joann's and it was super simple and nifty:

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Attach   the   buttons.   There   were   little   metal loops on the backs of the buttons I used, so I was   able   to   string   the   thread   through   and attach it to pillow where the pleats met. I had to keep it loose enough to where I could still lift an edge to make knots underneath.

Done! Now take a picture of it propped up on your   couch   and   brag   about   it   on   Facebook. Everyone  likes  a  good Urban Outfitters  knock-off.