Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB
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Transcript of Alain Mavon, Skin Research Director, Oriflame Cosmetics AB
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• Founded in 1967 in Sweden
• International beauty company selling direct
• Portfolio of approx. 1,000 cosmetics products
• €1.4 billion /7300 employees
• 3.5 million Oriflame Consultants
• Catalogues (150M) distributed in 40 languages
• 90% of all Oriflame Consultants in many markets using online tools
• Sustainability: long-term commitment
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PLANT STEM CELLS
Alain Mavon, Ph.D
AN ‘ON TREND’ & SUSTAINABLE SOURCE OF ACTIVE INGREDIENTS
May 21-23,Roma, Italy
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Mibelle, 2008 PhytocellTechTM
of malus domestica
2% extract reduced by 15% wrinkles in a month”
AN APPLE A DAY MAY KEEP WRINKLES AWAY …!
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”3lab immediatly put the apple-stem cell extract in its Deluxe M Cream, out this month ….
Lancôme tweaked its own version of the apple complex in the new Absolue Precious cell …
For a more recession friendly, Lumene, offers its new ExCELLent Future Deep Repairing Cream, just under $30 ”
- Sarah Brown, VOGUE US, Nov 2009, p 154 -
Created the buzz …....!
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I Can’t Believe The Hype – Beauty Products With Plant Stem Cells …!
Posted: 06/30/10
“Plant stem cell is the most advanced scientific innovation that reverses the signs of skin aging
through the power of cell regeneration”Global Cosmeceuticals Market Outlook 2016, Feb. 2013
…. ALTHOUGH STILL LACKING RIGOROUS DATA OF EXTENSIVE HUMAN STUDIES AND RESEARCH ON STEM CELLS, INTEREST CONTINUES TO RISENext Generation Cosmeceuticals, S. Malerich, D. Berson, Dermatol Clin 32 (2014) 13-21
Power Plant - Sustainability, because farming isn’t involved fewer natural resources are needed. - April Long, ELLE, Skin Care, Feb. 26, 2013 -
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Copyright ©2013 by Oriflame Cosmetics SA ТВОИ МЕЧТЫ - НАШЕ ВДОХНОВЕНИЕ
IM-MORTAL : theoritical ability to an unlimited number of division
Shoots - Roots
Meristems
PLANT STEM CELLS SOURCE OF PLANT GROWTH & RENEWAL
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PLANT STEM CELLSBIOTECHNOLOGIES
… ACCESS TO “SECONDARY METABOLITES”
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… are low molecular weight compounds that aid in the adaptation of the plant to their environnement.
Because of their siginificant biological activity, plant secondary metabolites have been used in traditional medecine for centuries.
Plant secondary metabolites
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Initiation, growth and cryopreservation of plant cell suspension culturesN.R. Mustafa, Nature Protocols 6, 715–742 2011
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PLANTLETS and CALLUS
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Mother cultures
Callus induction/
growth
Cell Suspension/
inductionUp-scaling Production
Loss of productivity over time Spontaneous genetic variation of suspension cultures Shear sensitivity, slow growth rates, low oxygen requirementLow content of secondary complex metabolites
PLANT STEM CELLS BIOTECHNOLOGIES
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“PHARMA” INDUSTRY ?
Paclitaxel / Taxol, Anti-cancer drug(BMS, >$1 billion)
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Initial Taxol demand 25 Kg/year
340,000 KG OF BARK
OR 38,000 TREES
Taxol is Extracted from bark of pacific yew tree (taxus brevifolia)
11 chemical steps, using 13 solvents, 13 organic reagents !!!!!
Chemical Synthesis
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Recent advances towards development and commercialization of plant cell culture processes for the synthesis of biomolecules, S. Wilson & S Roberts, Plant Biotech. J., 10, 249 -268, 2012.
About 250 kg
Today’s production is based on plant stem cell
in 75,000 liters’ bioreactors
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Bio-guided elicitation (anti-oxidant in tubo assay)
Jasmonic Acid or Me Jasmonate
Unpublished data, Oriflame, 2013
Extract of reference -Green Tea
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Cultured cambial meristematic cells as a source of plant natural products, E.K. Lee et al. Nature Biotech 28, 1213-17 (2010) & Plant natural products from cultured multipotent cells S. Roberts et.al.
Nature Biotech 28, 1175-76 (2010)
Cambial Meristematic Cells C.M.C.
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Cultivation of rare / protected species No overexploitation of land
No seasonal / geographical variation of crop No pesticides, fertilisers, heavy metals or GMO
Less water & energy consumption Local sourcing & simplified harvesting
Controlled conditions & high purity of Extracts
PLANT STEM CELLSBIOTECHNOLOGIES
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Brutal Facts
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The June 2013 UNs’ report projects a
population of 9.6 billion by 2050
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Because of their siginificant biological activity, plant secondary metabolites are used in traditional medecine
About 75% of people worlwide rely on
Traditionnal Medecine to meet their primary
healthcare needs
60% of anti-cancer drugs, from natural origin
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consumers
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Green becomes the New Black in skin care
*Source: Euromomitor International, Beauty and personal care skin care ; passport, Feb 2014
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Green / Sustainable consumers’ trend
*Source: Datamonitor Consumer Survey, 2013
Europe
22 30 36 15 34 47 36 25 40 20
Asia Pacific
23 46 55 44 13 29 27
Americas
56 26 48 25
Middle East and Africa
36 50 49
GLOBAL TOTAL 34
Consumers who say that green and sustainable production methods
influence their personal care purchases*
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NATURAL INGREDIENT CLAIMS ARE HIGHLY INFLUENTIAL FOR OVER HALF OF GLOBAL CONSUMERS* , 20 country average, 2011
Natural ingredients in personal Care
*Source : Datamonitor Consumer Survey, 2011
VERY HIGH / HIGH
VERY LOW / LOW MEDIUM
17% 30% 54%
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Health & … money
*Source: Datamonitor Consumer Survey 2013
70% of skincare shoppers globally1 agree that health and beauty
products formulated with "natural" ingredients are better for them.
86% of skincare shoppers1 globally consider it reasonable to charge
a premium for "natural" products
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Use of Science to achieve differentiation and deliver multifunctional skincare
in a growing anti-aging market
…… so scientists will become more important in all areas of our universe, from retail, clothing and food to branding, luxury and space tourism.
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loyalty driver
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“…..So you’re not going to take a cow, … probably not a silk worm
or a tree to Mars.
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How NASA Prints Trees
Posted Feb 9, 2014 by Emelie Rutherford
“So instead of taking the whole organism …- so that you’re 3D printing an array of cells that then can secrete or produce these products? ”
…NASA-funded researchers Rothschild & Gentry said !
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PLANT STEM CELLSBIOTECHNOLOGIES
…“The science is still in its infancy, but we’re at the beginning of something very exciting.”
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Copyright ©2013 by Oriflame Cosmetics SA ТВОИ МЕЧТЫ - НАШЕ ВДОХНОВЕНИЕ
Grazie!
Agriculture in Ancient Rome