Agricultural Extension Service University of Minnesota St. Paul, Minnesota Extension Bulletin 375

Pants have become a major fashion item in the past few years. They look just as appropriate

at a cocktail party as they do in the privacy of your back yard. However,

it might be wise to give more consideration to who wears pants outside the home

or off the boat and the campground. Accumulation of birthdays doesn't count nearly as much

as accumulation of pounds.

Look at yourself objectively. Should you be wearing pants? If in doubt-don't.

Thine Lu Bloxham Extension Clothing and Textile Specialist

Washington State University

Th1s publicatiOn has been reprmted for use m Mmnesota w1th perm1ss1on of the Cooperative Extension Serv1ce, Washmgton State Umvers1ty

Issued m furtherance of Cooperative extensiOn work m agnculture and home economics, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, m cooperatiOn w1th the US Department of Agnculture Roland H Abraham, D1rector of Agncultural Extens1on Serv1ce, Umvers1ty of Mmnesota, St Paul, Mmnesota 55101 We offer our programs and fac1llt1es to all people Without regard to race, creed, color, sex, or national ongm

~ivvhehi'y6q ~elect a pattern, . keep your figure in · ·~ind. f,he pants that look. elegant on your neighbor

may, t)e a t(;)tal catastrophe on you. -~ - - ~,.;' . '

', ·-;.;; .·

: e<.:Aip.~b:ugg~rs.witl) fitted thighs are unflattering H YC>~ nave prominetJt hips.

•; Paht~ with tapered legs are best on a slim, w~ll-proportioned figure. ·

'~ . -: . . . . . . . , : . .

• Be.iJ,bdttomsthat are tight through the thigh and ·. kn~e will accentuate prominent hips and thighs.

• Side zippers accentuate hips that are prominent or curvy ..

·. Pants with wide, straight legs would be a QOOd · choice if you want to camouflage heavy thighs.

Select pattern size by your measurement at the fullest part of the hip-usually 8 to 9 inches below the waistline. Buying by your hip measurement

··. will rnean fewer pattern alterations.

If you are making pants for the first time, and want a perfect fit, choose a pattern with a full-length leg. This rnakes Jt easier to establish the grain line.

Be sUre the back of the pattern has a deep curve ln the crotch seam, similar to the solid line in

· Figure 1, This seam shape provides sitting. room. Sorne patterns have a shallow curve (dotted line,

.· Figure 1 ). This seam shape pulls down in back anq will be uncomfortable when you sit or stand.

0 ••• •• • • •

Corduroy; brocade,. denim, duck, terrycloth, pique', .and fhmnel. are a few of the many fabrics suitable .fotirants. ·Knits are excellent, since they stretch asyqu move. Stiff fabrics are not good for tightly

.. fitted, pants, b~cause they do not mold easily to boqysh.ape. ·

. ;3

LINE

BACK

w z _I

z ~ a: CD

I

::E <( w C/)

w 0 U5

Figure 1 Checking Shape of Crotch Seam

---r---- WAIST I I I I I

HIP

-------- THIGH

-.---- KNEE I

I I --,---1 I

I' t-1 a' z' w' ...JI

I w, g, U)l

I

Figure 2 Personal

Measurements

WAIST

• I

Figure 3 Crotch Depth

Figure 4 Crotch Circumference

CROTCH~ I

DEPTH 1 I~-+--- :-CROTCH I I I CIRCUM-

: __ f::! l£' ___ _1 ----- : FERENCE I \ I

11 CROTCH \ I l------0::.:....:..:::....:....:::..:..:_-'if'r.;__....=c..:...=-t---f I

TH IGH

KNEE

---- .!..

Figure 5 Measuring the Pattern

I

I I I I I

~SIDE I LENGTH

Discarded men's slacks, in uoao ;':ctltldil excellent pants. But don't press trousers or those with a tUnfh ;r'tAl"iMil

synthetic fibers unless you can also use crease line. This line cannot be ironed out.

Lightweight or scratchy fabrics may need a llr:tfng. You should be able to care for it in the same way as the rest of the garment. If the outer fabric is washable, the lining should be, too.

Because pants patterns are difficult to fit on the figure, it is important to know your measurements. Then you can check your pattern and alter it where it needs it.

Wear the undergarments that you plan to wear with the pants. With the help of a second person, take the measurements listed in the chart and illustrated in Figures 2, 3, and 4.

Measure the corresponding places on each pattern piece as shown in Figure 5. If your pattern does not have a crotch line, draw one in at the base of the crotch seam. Keep it at right angles to the grainline. Then draw in the hip, thigh, and knee lines-also at right angles to the grainline.

Enter both sets of measurements on the pants measurement chart. Compare the two columns to see if the pattern needs alteration.

Record the adjustment needed (plus or minus) In the right-hand column. If large adjustments (3 inches or more) are necessary, consider purchas­ing a different pattern size.

After you alter the pattern, you are ready to cut the fabric. However, you may want to try out the pattern first, using muslin or an inexpensive fabric. Then you can make additional changes, if neces­sary, after you fit the pants on your figure. Use this as a master pattern whenever you make pants.

4

. Thigh

· AtJullest part, _· inches below waist

At fullest part of leg, _ inches below waist

0-3/4 II

1" for a tight fit

2" for a roomier fit

1" for a tight fit

2" for a roomier fit

Pattern Adjustment Measurement ( + or -)

-·---

r-------~~------~-----+----------+-----------t-~------·~------------

Crotch Depth

Crotch Circumference

side Length·

Sit on flat surface. ·Measure from waistline along side hipline to flat surface·

From center front to center back waistline between the legs

From waistline to desired length, plus hem allow­ance

1/2" for 35" hips or less

3f4" for 35 to 38" hips

1" for hips over 38"

Y2-i" for average figure

3" for full figure

Check by com­paring with comfortable pair of pants

0

r-~--------r--------------+-----------+------------+-----------·~------------Knee

Calf

Instep and Heel ·

At fullest part of knee

At fullest part of calf

At fullest part of instep and heel

* Use the minimum amount of ease for knit pants.

5

2"

2"

i" or more I I i

l

To Increase To Decrease

Figure 6 Waist Adjustments

To Increase To Decrease (Spread) . . (Tuck)

Figure 7 Hip Adjustments

.. _.-.-_., __ ··_~_-,·_·t•);0!N~~;;t1;(~f,A~f:€:2r·1r'I -· <".: ." .. - ;•.:-.<- .

To increase or decrease the •vYaistnfue, ~dd b(tkk~·::.<:,r/ off one-fourth of the. total a:ltenitip.n at the . side. "~ .. seams.·. See Figure 6 .. ·.· .. ·.. ·· · ,_._,>·~,_··.':.: ··

·l.f a- large- _·.adj~ustme.n~t0.'i§ ··n~.Qess~ry,_·-··· ¢h.~h~~~-~~~~~\-;'trf/'•, waistline.·darts,too; • •rhesedal'ts·.ah3 an;irp,p·&tt~nf .,, part ofJit ln pants: . Yotl_ may>iJeect to. ch~m~e.··'fh~;·.:·~::);.~ position, direction, or length·t_o fit Your figure·;_·· · ·•

' . . ·. ,·' ~· . . ; ' ,•·' ... ,. . . "•,/ ;;· -~·.:_.::··,:,: .'· .

If you have prominent or very roul1dact hip$·,;.y~'l.J · ·. may- need to add- ah extra dart. Todothis; eUmipate'· the original dart and draw two new darts; one ·.o·n each side of the original position: • Your,figl)r~ .wiil-····­dictate the .size and shape of the neyvda.rts. The' · more prominent the shape, the larger the dart. · · ·

'. - .~~ '.; -~ .

•-·······~a~crea~~):He·-P,~tterl'l()rily)n_.the-t??tck . ,;,- :

. . · If your hips ·are extra promin~~t,> increase the. side .· .. sealnatthe hipline.lnstea,d'qf.widening the entire · pattern. · .. If your hips are flat; decrease ·the side . ·

s.earf1.1Vlark ohe:-fourth of the ~uno~nt to be changed a.tthe hi•pline.Th'en drawanev(searn• ~apering from th$ walsttothe knee. . See Figure 8 .. · Jrwrease or. decrease the same atnount on pattern Jront and

·back.

. - . . . . ·. . .

A p~rson with larg,e thighs will often have Jarge .· hips,. or aperson with small thighs will ~ave small .

···.·;.'hips; . lfthis is the case, a hip adjustment may also .. take. car~ ofj~e thigh adjustn,ent,· ·· · · ·

·····•·-;t.fn0t,widen dY.nartow.thepattern~atUte·thigblin$ .. ·. · · · ·" ·'Add or st1btrft6t6ne4ourth. of. thE) ~irrlou~f·n~~ged:at,···.

ea,ch sea[O. · ... See ,F'i'gQre 9... Draw a. new q!Jt~i:ng'•lf~e on· the .sic;Je· seam-tape,,ring from tf'le :h1pl.ille to. ttle ... ·

. &~J~~~f~I~k:t:~~!~s~t;t~~n~~r~f~~~~':

;-.. -.·. --~ ·--." : " ... ·.· '

J:J)~~·N.t~~[·~·Ux~~n~ z~\Jfr~~i:k~~~ir~u~l~,·•; .. ·· . ·····

• i~~~~~~~~'~b~~~~$(: ITMt)fi~t~a::;~f~~1~(~· .· .; .. xre·atn···£tpd '$p,re.ad t~e patter h. ,pieqijs;theneqe$sary · ...

•.:•·•J.!~ii~l~;~~~~~~~!~eb~~1;*"t~:i~!~·· · ··. · ..... ~ :0~~~·~· ;,id~~.i~hgth ~g~in .. · ,·If ~his.:additi~n m~ltes· it

....... ~~if0~~~~~~B~ttt~tt~rr~~;~~,~h~~~q.ts at.ttia· ·~ "0 '.·. ;~;' ~ • ' ' : .-. ; •• :. ' :

. ·_. :'<'~-: :::- . . .. ·.· ..

To Increase To Decrease

Figure 8 Hip Adjustments

THIGH LINE

Lengthen. (Spread)

. .· .. Fi~ure 10 ·.Crotch Depth· Adjustment

I I I· I ,. I. I ..

Shorten (Tuck)

Figure 11 Crotch Depth Adjustment

Figure 12 Adjustment for Wide Seat

Figure 13 Adjustment for Flat Seat

To shorten the crotch, measure up from the "lengthening-shortening" line the amount to be shortened. Draw a line parallel to the "lengthen­ing-shortening" line. Bring the two lines together and pin or tape the fold flat. See Figure 11.

Check the side length again. If shortening the crotch has made the pants too short, split and spread the pattern on the lower leg "lengthening­shortening" line.

It is not unusual to have a protruding seat or a flat seat.

A shape that is wide through the seat requires ad­ditional length in the back of the pants. To get this additional length, add 1f4 to V2 inch at the cen­ter back waist seam. Also increase the front and back inner leg seam. See Figure 12. The differ­ence between your crotch length measurement and that of the pattern will help determine how much to add. Taper the additions to make smooth seam­lines. This figure type may need a large back hip adjustment in addition to this alteration.

Figures with a flat seat require less length in the back of the pants. To get this, remove V4 to V2 inch at the center back waistline. See Figure 13. Decrease the back inner leg seam, too. Use your crotch length measurement to determine how much. Draw new seamlines, tapering smoothly.

A second alteration is sometimes necessary after the first fitting. If the pants are still too big, pin out a small amount at the front inner leg seam. A small back hip alteration may be necessary in com­bination with this adjustment.

Most patterns have "lengthening-shortening" lines both above and below the crotch. To change

8

length, use the line below the crotch. The line above the crotch is needed only if the crotch depth requires adjustment.

To lengthen the pants, split the pattern on the "lengthening-shortening" line and spread the de­sired amount. To shorten, fold out the desired amount on the "lengthening-shortening" line.

These measurements are of particular concern when snugly fitted pants are fashionable. It is a good idea to have 2 inches ease at the knee and calf to allow for bending and sitting. Pants width at the hem must be at least as large as your instep and heel, or your pants will be too tight to wear. Be sure to increase or decrease front and back seams equally. See Figure 14.

After you cut out the pants, you need to do two jobs of pressing before you start to stitch.

Press a crease in the front of the pants legs. Use the pattern markings as a guide to determine where the crease should fall.

To prevent baggy knees, stretch the fronts along the lower leg seams. With the folded fronts on the ironing board, press the side and inner leg seams from 3 inches above the knee line to 3 inches above the hem. Stretch as you press until V4 to V2 inch is added to the seam length. See Figure 15. As you press, swing the crease line forward slightly from the point 3 inches above the knee.

Trim the excess V4 to V2 inch from the hem edge.

9

To Increase To Decrease

Figure 14 Knee, Calf, Instep and

Heel Adjustments

t-- STRETCH~

t SWING

Figure 15 To Prevent Baggy Knees

Figure 16 Sewing Darts

Figure 17 Sewing Crotch Seam

If you stretch the fronts 1/4 inch, trim 1/4 inch all the way across the lower edge of the hem.

Stretch fabrics and knits do not need to be press­ed. They can be stretched as you stitch the leg seams.

This same procedure will work with baggy knees in ready-to~wear pants. To use this method in ready-to-wear, you will need to rip the side and inner leg seams from the hem to 3 inches above the knee.

Pants are usually constructed in the following or­der: stay stitching, darts, inner and side leg seams, crotch seam, zipper, waistband, and hem. The crotch seam will not bunch or bind if sewn after the leg seams.

Before stitching darts, take a look at yourself in the mirror. Does your figure curve abruptly below the waistline? If so, curve the darts slightly to allow more fabric to cover your curves. See Fig­ure 16. This will help eliminate puckers at the dart ends and create a smoother fit.

Stitch the front crotch seam from the bottom to the top, starting at the inner leg seamline. Also stitch the back crotch seam from the bottom to the top, overlapping the front crotch stitching about 1 inch. Stretch the back curve about 1f2 to 3.4 inch by pulling the seam with your fingers as you stitch. See Figure 17. Doing this will keep the seam from splitting when you bend or sit.

Even after accurate alterations and construction, slight fitting adjustments are sometimes necessary. Perhaps there is too much ease at the thigh line, a slight droop in the seat, or a pucker at the end of the front darts. Make any necessary adjust-

10

ments before the pants are completely finished. Always fit pants with the waistband pinned or bast­ed in place because you cannot judge fit without it.

During the fitting process, take a very critical look at the pants. Check the grainline, ease, balance, darts, and seamlines. If you make any change, also make it on the muslin or tissue pattern. Then you will have better fitting pants the next time.

A pattern with a full-length leg can easily be alter­ed for shorts. Draw a line parallel to the crotch line at the desired length of the shorts. Allow at least another 2 inches for a hem. Add Y2 inch to the inner leg seam length. Taper to the side seam. This gives the appearance of an even hem when the shorts are finished. See Figure 18.

Determine how many inches of extra fullness you want at the hemline and add one-fourth of this amount to each seam. For example, if you want a 24-inch hem, and your pattern measures 12 inch­es, you will need to add 12 extra inches. Put one­fourth of this amount, or 3 inches, at each seam.

Draw lines from the hemline tapering inward to a slim knee line. See Figure 19. Then taper out­ward to the crotch line on the inner leg seam and the hipline on the side seam. Vary the fit at the knee and thigh according to individual preference.

Widen the hemline of both sides of each pattern piece at least 4 inches. Draw lines from the ex­tended hemline to the hipline and the point of the crotch. See Figure 20.

11

Figure 18 Shorts

Figure 19 Bell Bottoms

Figure 20 Hostess Pants