www.kingsparkplants.co.uk. Owned and operated by BCP council.

Months of flowering pleasureEvery bulb has its own flowering pleasure. We make sure that we have plenty of varieties to ensure that your beds look impressive from January through to June.

Winter aconites and snowdrops are the traditional harbingers of spring, their bright yellow and white always promise of more to come. These are followed by crocuses, narcissi and the first early tulips. In April and May, it’s time for grape hyacinths, later-flowering tulips and the impressive crown imperials (Fritillaria). Alliums flower from mid-May to far into July.

So, making the right choices can provide you with six months of glorious colour.

PlantingBefore planting make sure the bulbs are free of mould, and are not soft. Just gently squeeze the bulb: if it’s hard, then its fine. But if it’s a bit spongy or moisture comes from it, then through it away.

Loosen the soil thoroughly and work some compost into it if needed. Dig a planting hold and place the bulbs in it, in an upright position. Small bulbs can be scattered.

When to plantSpring-flowering bulbs can be planted from September to December. Do try to plant them before the frost sets in.

Planting depthThe general rule for planting depth is to plant a bulb twice as deep, as it is tall. This means that the right depth for large bulbs such as narcissi, tulips and hyacinths is about 15-20cm deep. The right depth for smaller bulbs is around 5 to 10 cm.

Distance apartLarger flower bulbs need more space between them than small bulbs. Plant large bulbs leaving an average space between them of 12cm, small bulbs need only an average of 5-7cm between them. The space between the bulbs depends on the visual effect you wish to achieve.

For a casual, natural effect, plant the bulbs unequal distances apart. Plant them at equal distances for a more uniform display.

Advice SheetPlanting bulbs

www.kingsparkplants.co.uk. Owned and operated by BCP council.

Soil type and drainageRainwater can be easily drained from a sandy soil. Clay soils, on the other hand, have a tendency to remain moist for longer. Bulbs don’t like having ‘wet feet’, so allow plenty of drainage if you’re planting in clay soil (you can do this by adding sand or compost to it, and scattering fine gravel or cat litter into the planting holes).

Water and frostWater the bulbs as soon as you plant them. This stimulates them to start producing roots. The earlier the roots are formed, the faster the bulb will be able to tolerate cold and frost. Stop watering when the autumn rains are on their way.

Pots and containersPlease refer to our care sheet ‘bulbs in containers’ for more specific guidance for planting up pots.

Making layers of bulbsUse the ‘sandwich’ or ‘lasagne’ system to layer up your bulbs - in the soil or in containers. The lowest layer will contain the bulbs that will flower last, such as tulips. The earlier ones such as cocuses or dward irises are planted over the later flowering bulbs.

Leaving bulbs in the groundMany bulbs can remain the ground after floweing. Leave them undisturbed and give the leaves a change to die back. Next year, they will produce another display of flowers.

Floral accentsThere is always space for bulbs - whatever available space you have. For example in a perennial border, blooms don’t appear until after mid-May. Adding spring-flowering bulbs bring colour earlier. Give bulbs such as crocuses and spring anemones a spot among low perennials at the edge. Amid taller perennials, there is often room for tulips, camassias and stately Alliums. And who can resist a carpet of bluebells at the feet of tall trees?

For further help and advicePlease come into the nursery (with pictures if you have them) and we will be happy to advise you further, or ask your question on Facebook.

Advice SheetPlanting bulbs continued