Adventures NW Magazine Fall 2012

ADVENTURES

>>> EXTENSIVE OUTDOOR EVENTS CALENDAR INSIDE

SPECIAL SECTION

BRITISH COLUMBIAFree.

FALL.2012

takeenjoy keep

CLIMBING THE BUGABOOS

RUNNING IN vICTORIA

HIKING THE JUAN DE FUCA TRAIL

BIKING AUTUMN’S BEST RIDES

SNORKELING wITH SALMONINTO THE TOMBSTONES

GEORGE DySON’S BAIDARKASA SEASON IN ANTARCTICA

NW >>>

SUNDAY SEPT. 23

2012 (First wave at 11am)

HOVANDER PARK

FERNDALE, WA

Over 20 Spectator friendly obstacles. Boundary Bay beer garden, several local food vendors, live music, kids zone and a bonfire! Costumes are encouraged and you can SIGN UP as a family, team or individual! KIDS are only $10, STUDENTS are $20 and ADULTS are $30

MUD:

MUDDIER:

MUDDIEST:

race | play | experience 3

K2 • Burton • Arc’teryx • The North Face • Volkl • Nordica, Lange • Ride • Jones • Marmot • Smith • GNU • Marmot • Rossignol • Atomic • Marker

360-671-10441-800-600-1044

Voted best Ski & Snowboard shop in Bellingham!

WARREN MILLER TICKETS AVAILABLE

@ SPORTSMAN CHALET!

www.sportsmanchalet.com

2420 James St., Bellingham, WA

Cascadia Weekly

Swap, Oct 13-14

Drop off starts 10/8

Labor Day Ski & Board SaleAug 29th to Sept 3

TICKETSON SALESEPT.19

INSPIRED FILMMAKING INTREPID ATHLETES IMMENSE MOUNTAINS

TICKETS TRAILERS PHOTOS MUSIC

SPOKANEYAKIMA

RICHLAND/TRI-CITIESBELLINGHAM

OLYMPIATACOMABELLEVUE

EVERETTBREMERTON

SEATTLEAUBURN

KIRKLAND

Martin Woldson Theater at the FoxCapitol Theatre

Chief Joseph Middle SchoolMount Baker Theatre

Washington Center for the Performing ArtsPantages Theater

Meydenbauer CenterHistoric Everett Theatre

Admiral TheatreMcCaw Hall at Seattle CenterAuburn Performing Arts CenterKirkland Performance Center

Oct. 20Nov. 02Nov. 03Nov. 08Nov. 09Nov. 10Nov. 11Nov. 14Nov. 15Nov. 16 & 17Nov. 18Nov. 20 & 21

SAVE ON TICKETSBuy 10 or more tickets and get $2 off every full price

ticket, FREE SHIPPING, & a download card for a

CALL NOW: (800) 523-7117

TICKETING DISCOUNTSWITH PURCHASE

Bellingham tickets available at Mount Baker Theatre (mountbakertheatre.com,

360.734.6080), Fairhaven Bike & Ski, Sportsman Chalet, and Tickets.com

Ticket holders receive savings coupon at eventFROM THE FOLLOWING SPONSORS:

4 race | play | experience

Steph Abegg has climbed extensively in various climbing areas across western North America. her home range is the North Cascades, where she enjoys the rugged glaciated beauty. No matter the difficulty of the route, she always has a camera along, docu-menting the adventure and capturing images of the

spectacular terrain. Visit her at: www.StephAbegg.com.

ANitA K. boyle is a graphic de-signer, illustrator and poet who lives just outside belling-ham. She has lived in the pacific Northwest over fifty years, and still considers the contemplative beauty of this place as her greatest inspiration. Visit her at egressstudio.com.

brett bAuNtoN’S photo credits range from National Geographic to

Nature’s Best magazine to Whatcom Places, Alaska and Washington tourism, Audubon and Sierra Calendars. the uSpS featured brett’s pacific Crest trail image on a “Won-ders of America” stamp. brett’s studio, ArtScan is located in the bay Street Village in bellingham. Visit his new website at www.baytobaker.com.

Along with being an admitted summer-lover and fall-phobe, MiKe MCQuAide is a bellingham writer, guidebook author and bike addict. his latest book, 75 Classic Rides: Washington (Mountaineers books) was published in May. his blog is www.mcqview.blogspot.com.

JeSSiCA NeWley is a graduate student at Western Washington

university, pursuing a Master’s degree in envi-ronmental education. She is an avid SCubA diver, passionate about the environment, and enjoys the adventure that photography brings. Jessica is currently teaching at the North Cascades institute (ncascades.org) as part of her Master’s program.

A bicyclist, backpacker, kayaker, and regular contributor to Adventures NW, lAurAl riNgler has published al-most 80 articles and blogs at lauralringler.com. She was reading eugene linden’s The Octopus and the Orangutan on the Juan de Fuca trail in the days just before seeing the gi-ant pacific octopus up close and personal.

CrAig roMANo is currently is-land hopping, researching his next book, Day Hiking San Juan and Gulf Islands. the book includes a chapter on Victoria and the Saanich peninsula, which means more great trail running! Author of eight books; when not hik-

ing and running, he can often be found napping with his cats, giuseppe and Scruffy gray. Visit him at Craigromano.com.

As he enters the quiet eye of a mid-life storm, freelance scribe ted roSeN distills his world-weary musings into fine droplets of hopeful mirth. his lousy back has re-centered his adven-tures on european travel rather than rocky tent floors, and he likes it that way.

on a typical day at 80°01’S, 119°57’W,

AbigAil SuSSMAN wore two layers of long johns, a patagonia r1 hoodie, a light down puffy, insulat-ed Carhartt overalls and jacket, goggles, a toque, and a buff. She spent most days shoveling snow and is not being at all facetious when she says she enjoyed it. Shout out to becky and Nick for the ad-vice and to all byrds and pigs.

liSA toNer grew up hiking and backpacking in the North Cascades. She began climbing with the bellingham Mountaineers in 2006, and has sum-mited many peaks in the Western united States and british Columbia. though she spent this past summer cycling through europe, she often dreams of alpine scenery and the feeling of solid granite beneath her rock shoes. She can’t wait to return to the mountains.

CONTRIBUTORS FALL | 2012Volume 7. Issue 3

A Look Ahead:

Winter Hikes

Riding Galbraith

Saving Vendovi Island

John Scurlock’s Lonely Lookouts

Our Winter Issue


INSPIRATIONS IN THIS ISSUE

Phot

o by

John

D’O

nofri

o

COVERRappelling from the summit block of Bugaboo SpirePhoto by Steph Abegg

Snorkeling with SalmonRuminations from the River Jessica Newley 10When Dreams Come True Climbing in the Bugaboos Lisa Toner 14No Time for Tea, I Have to Run Making Tracks in Victoria, BC Craig Romano 18Hiking the Juan de Fuca TrailCoasting on Vancouver Island Laural Ringler 22Chasing the Sun Autumn Bike Rides without the Gore-Tex Mike McQuaide 26The Colors of Autumn The Splendor of the North Cascades Brett Baunton 30Into the Tombstones A Journey to the Arctic John D’Onofrio 32George Dyson From Tree House to Turing’s Cathedral Ted Rosen 38When Clouds Become Mountains A Season in Antartica Abigail Sussman 42

A Look Ahead:

“All we have, it seems to me, is the beauty of art and nature and life, and the love which that beauty inspires.”

- Edward Abbey

Out & About 8eARTh: The Art of Nature 37Cascadia Gear 47Race | Play | Experience Calendar 48Advertiser Index 56 Next Adventure 58

DESTINATIONS

Client: Whidbey Island BankPub: Adventure NWAd: “Possibilities” Ad Size: Live: 2.375" x 9.625" Trim: N/A Bleed: N/A

There’s A WorldOf Possibilities

Out There.

www.wibank.com

6 race | play | experience >>> Go to to read ANW stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.AdventuresNW.com >>> Go to to read ANW stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

100% green powerCO2

NEU

T RAL

Carbon Neutral

Adventures NW proudly supports hundreds of important local & national organizations, events and efforts, including:

> DEADLINES Winter

Article queries Sep 1Ad reservations Oct 20

Final ads & calendar listings Nov 1

Spring Article queries Dec 1

Ad reservations Jan 20Final ads & calendar listings Feb 1

Summer Article queries Mar 1

Ad reservations Apr 20Final ads & calendar listings May 1

FallArticle queries Jun 1

Ad reservations Jul 20; Final ads & calendar listings Aug 1

Adventures NW magazine is printed by Lithtex NW Printing Solutions, Bellingham

> FIND Adventures NW is available free at hundreds of locations region-wide: throughout Whatcom, Island, Skagit, and San Juan coun-ties, at all Washington REI stores, in select spots in Snohomish Co., Leavenworth, Winthrop, Wenatchee, Vancouver, BC, at area visitor and transit centers, and through numerous races and events.

> SUBSCRIBE Have ANW mailed to your home, your work, or as a gift subscription. Info at AdventuresNW.com. Multi-copy subscriptions are available, with discounts based on quantity and location.

> ADVERTISE Let Adventures NW magazine help you reach a diverse, receptive audience throughout the Pacific Northwest, and be part of one of the most valued and engaging publica-tions in the region. Info is at AdventuresNW.com or by writing to dennis @ AdventuresNW.com.

> CONTRIBUTE Adventures NW welcomes original article queries—including feature stories, expert advice, photo essays, the Next Adventures shot, etc. For information: john @ AdventuresNW.com.

FALL | 2012Volume 7. Issue 3

ADVENTURES Nw

Adventures NW magazinewww.AdventuresNW.com

John D’Onofrio Publisher/Editor

john @ adventuresnw.com

Dennis BrounsteinAdvertising Sales

dennis @ adventuresnw.com

Jason RinneProduction Manager

jason @ adventuresnw.com

Marian JensenAccounting

accounting @ adventuresnw.com

> EVENTS Have your outdoor-related event, race or public outing listed in the quarterly race|play|experience calendar and the regularly updated online version. Write to dennis @ AdventuresNW.com for information.

Mount Bakery

Thanks cycling fans for another great Tour de France! • Visit us at our Fairhaven location next to WECU

mountbakery.com • 360-715-2195

scratch-baked pastries & desserts • coffee • breakfast • lunch & ... now serving dinner downtown! Wednesday-Saturday 3:30-9pm

>>> Go to to read ANW stories & the race|play|experience calendar online. race | play | experience 7 >>> Go to to read ANW stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

Autumn MusicI love autumn. Make no mistake: I’m a big fan of summer too. The long, lingering evenings, the carpets of wildflowers that turn alpine meadows into fields of light, the exhilaration of plunging into glacier-fed lakes. And frankly, truth be told, I’ve been known to enjoy winter and spring quite a bit also. Each season has its own riches and delights here in the Great Northwest. But autumn is my favorite. I love the way the low-angle sun gleams on the Salish Sea at this time of year. I love the crisp morning air and hunting chan-terelles in the fragrant forest. I love the reds, oranges, and purples of the heather and huckleberries, the crimson berries of the mountain ash, the yellow leaves of big leaf maple and the stunning gold of larches against a cobalt blue sky.These idyllic autumn days are made all the sweeter by the knowledge of how quickly they pass and dissolve in winter’s embrace. It’s a time of year where it is especially vital to seize the day, put aside the busy-ness of life and get out and play. Turn around and it’s November and all of those vivid colors pass like a dream, blown away by the cold wind. Timing is everything.And there’s so much to do in Autumn: biking, running, hiking, climbing, and yes, snorkeling with salmon are all ways that you can connect to this most ephemeral season. Adventure beckons. In this issue, we highlight British Columbia, that wonderland just across our northern border, with features on the Bugaboos, Vancouver Island’s Juan De Fuca Trail, and running in that most charming of Canadian cities, Victoria. BC is paradise for

outdoors-lovers of all stripes and autumn is an ideal time in which to avail yourself of these pleasures. Capturing the beauty of this most colorful season, Brett Baunton’s stunning photographs illuminate the landscapes of

the North Cascades in all their glory, high-lighting the photographer’s passion for the beauty that surrounds us. Brett likes autumn too.We have some more exotic treats as well: One of our favorite writers, Abby Sussman reflects on an enlightening season spent in Antarctica, 750 miles from the South Pole. You’ll also be introduced to Tombstone Territorial Park, way up in the northern Yukon Territory, one of North America’s newest - and most spectacular - parks. Adventure abounds.We’ve also been busy building out a new Adventures NW website. The new site has loads of stories from the magazine, photo galleries, tons of outdoor resources, gear reviews and a new, better-than-ever, com-prehensive events calendar. Check it out at AdventuresNW.com. Our goal is to be the source for information about outdoors fun

in Cascadia - and beyond. But it’s not just about information. We strive to inspire you to have your own adventures, whatever they may be. Life is short, and like these ephemeral seasons, passes in the blink of an eye.

Timing is everything.

&SamsaraA new film from Director Ron Fricke (Baraka), Samsara explores the wonders of our world from the mundane to the miraculous, looking into the unfathomable reaches of man’s spirituality and the human experience, illuminating the links between humanity and the rest of nature.

Filmed entirely in 70MM, Samsara was filmed over a five-year period in 25 countries.

Starts October 5th at the Pickford Film Center, Bellingham

ADVENTURESNW >>> Present

The

“Visually breathtaking. Unlike anything you will ever see.”

- Indiewire

Check out Doctober at the Pickford: Great documentaries all month long! pickfordfilmcenter.org

8 race | play | experience >>> Go to to read ANW stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.AdventuresNW.com

&OutAbout

September Running, Biking, Paddling, Spawning...and Jazz

Here in our corner of the Pacific Northwest we are blessed with

an embarrassment of riches when it comes to outdoor fun in the sun (or fun in the rain, as the case may be). Events for runners, walkers, cy-clists, paddlers, and more, provide countless opportunities to experience the fun of competition, savor the great outdoors and build community - one race at a time.

Of course, the month of May brings us the big mama - Ski to Sea - but September has emerged as one non-stop extravaganza of outdoor action (and antics). We thought we’d highlight a few of the many September divertissements soon to be found on the streets, hiking trails, bike trails, beaches, and yes, mud pits of our cor-ner of the known universe. One curious thing: all of these events involve beer. Coincidence? I think not.

Bellingham Traverse: Spawning Fun and Good Works for 11 Years

There’s really nothing else like the Bellingham Traverse. Really. Celebrating the lifecycle of the salmon, this multi-sport adventure race pulls

out all the stops. With divisions for solo (Chinook), tandem (Coho), and relay teams (Chum), the Traverse features a greenways run, mountain bike, road bike, trail run, paddle and “team trek”. At the finish line: what else but Traverse Red Ale, brewed especially for the event by Boundary Bay. And you will never hear so many bad puns about fish in one day in your entire life. Trust me on this.

This year’s Traverse will happen on September 15th, and will support the Kulshan Community Land Trust. The race starts at 12:30 at The Bellingham Farmer’s Market. For more info or to get in on the fun: http://nwtraverse.com/bellingham-traverse/home.

On the Waterfront: 15K and Jazz at the Bellwether

Saturday, September 8th will be a great day to be beside the water

in Bellingham. The eighth annual Fairhaven Runners Waterfront 15K of-fers up a chance to run along the edge of Bellingham Bay from Fairhaven to downtown Bellingham and back. With views out over the water and back to Mount Baker, the route is a scenic de-light - and a local favorite.

And in an inspired bit of schedul-ing, that same afternoon you can enjoy

the sights and sounds of the second annual Bellwether Jazz Festival, at Tom Glenn Commons at the end of the Bellwether Peninsula. A free event, the jazz festival will be serving up a heady mix of live jazz, food booths and the obligatory beer garden. Music will be provided by Carlos Cascante’s Tumbao, Crossing Borders, Blues Union and the Thomas Marriott Quartet. The fes-tivities are presented by The Jazz Project in association with the Port of Bellingham.

“We are so privileged to run this waterfront course,

wending our way around the marina and scenic coastal property as we race back toward Fairhaven,” says Steve Roguski, owner (with his wife Genevie) of Fairhaven Runners. “Wouldn’t it be nice to linger awhile and savor the wa-tery scene? Well, for the second year, you have the opportunity to do just that! We hope you include the Bellwether Jazz Festival in your race day plans.”

Jud Sherwood, director of the Jazz

polly Favinger and rene Wendt at the Waterfront 15K.photo courtesy Fairhaven runners & Walkers

>>> Go to to read ANW stories & the race|play|experience calendar online. race | play | experience 9

Project agrees that the convergence of the race and the music is perfect. “After finishing a 15K, I can think of no bet-ter way to savor the experience and cel-ebrate the Bellingham waterfront than to drink a Boundary Bay beer in a public park while listening to jazz. Truly pure Bellingham.”

The race starts at 8:30 am and the jazz starts at 1 pm. Just another glorious day in the City of Subdued Excitement.

For more info on the Waterfront 15K: http://cob.org/services/recreation/races/fairhaven-15k.aspx

For more info on the Bellwether Jazz Fest: http://www.jazzproject.org

Whatcom Events introduces Muds to Suds

Whatcom Events, those fun-loving folks who bring you the Ski to Sea Race each year, invite you to get down and dirty at Ferndale’s Hovander Park on September 23rd. The newly introduced Muds to Suds race is a wild 3-mile long obstacle course that includes no fewer than 18 muddy obstacles. Participants are encouraged to dress up for the event (prizes will be awarded for the most creative cos-tumes). Divisions include kids, stu-dents, adults and fossils.

“We will also be collecting peo-ples dirty muddy shoes after the race,” organizer Mel Monkelis

says. “Green Sneakers will be collecting, cleaning and donating the shoes to those people that need them. We encourage everyone to consider this.”

At the finish line, you’ll find food vendors, live music and (of course) a Boundary Bay beer garden. Fire trucks will be on hand to hose off participants and a bonfire will blaze to warm you up.

Muds to Suds will also be a plas-tic water bottle-free event, featuring Zip2Water (on-demand filtered water to fill racers water bottles). Whatcom Events has become a champion of Zip2Water - they can now provide it for any local races or events, according to Monkelis. Contact [email protected] for details.

The fun starts at 11:00 am. For more info: http://www.mudstosuds.com/

Chuckanut Century set for September 16th

Boundary Bay Brewery & Bistro is home base for the Chuckanut Century, one of Whatcom County’s premier bike rides on September 16th. The family-friendly event offers scenic, supported

rides of 25, 38, 50, 62, 100 or 124 miles ranging from a south loop beside the wa-ters of Bellingham, Samish and Padilla Bays to a northern route with million dollar views of Mt. Baker, the Canadian Cascades and Vancouver Island. If there are more beautiful places to ride a bike, let me know. Proceeds benefit Whatcom Hospice.

The event is presented by the Mount Baker Bike Club. For more info: http://www.chuckanutcentury.org

the Chuckanut Century

355 Harris Ave Suite 108, Bellingham, WA 98225

Call or text [email protected]

TAKE THE LEAPPASSENGER FERRY BETWEEN

BELLINGHAM & THE SAN JUANS

Custom transportationfor your San Juan Island

adventure.

Visit AdventuresNW.com for complete listings of Outdoor events through 2013


When the water first hits my face, it’s like being stung by little bees all over my cheeks. To top that off, I

have an instant ice cream headache and if I don’t get my footing soon I’m likely to drown in four feet of water. As an avid scuba diver, the irony of that fact is not lost on me, and I take a second to gather myself. I’m standing in the middle of the Skagit River wearing a dry suit, 40 pounds of weight, and carrying my trusty underwater camera set-up. All around me are some of the most important and spectacular wild animals in the Pacific Northwest: Salmon.

Eight hours of snorkeling in 36 degree water in the middle of December may not be everyone’s cup of tea, but last winter, while living up at the North Cascades Institute, I ventured out to find new ways to feed my passion for the underwater world and natural history. Living in close proximity to the Skagit River, I knew I had a

Story and photos by Jessica Newley

SnorkelingSalmon

with

>>> Go to to read ANW stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.AdventuresNW.com


unique opportunity to get a close look at the amazing salmon runs and per-haps a few pictures too - if I was lucky.

Cycle of LifeThe Skagit River flows down from

the heart of the North Cascades, west through Sedro-Woolley and Mount Vernon, down to the Skagit flats, where it drains into Skagit Bay, a branch of the Puget Sound. The Skagit is the only large river system in Washington that supports populations of all five native species of salmon. Throughout the year, and mainly in the fall, the Skagit and its tributaries contain runs of Chinook, Coho, Pink, Sockeye, and Chum Salmon. Last winter was a particularly good run for the Pink Salmon, also known as humpies.

Along the lower tributaries, which feed into the Skagit River watershed, the smell of decaying fish cannot be missed. I have to admit; I have grown oddly attracted to it. Salmon carcasses litter the shore, picked apart by scav-engers and other predators, in a giant process of regeneration. The pieces that are left decompose and reinvigorate the river shorelines and vegetative commu-nities with a new supply of nutrients needed for a healthy habitat. Other members of the ecosystem also help with this process. Whether it’s a bear snagging salmon from the river and taking their bodies up into the woods, or a bald eagle flying high and dropping a salmon or two into the trees, salmon bodies play an important role in cycling nutrients through the ecosystem.

Salmon have long been important - economically and culturally - in the Pacific Northwest. Native-Americans of the region would hold annual cel-ebrations to mark the return of the Salmon and ask for a bountiful har-vest. When Lewis and Clark arrived on the Columbia River, there were an estimated 16 million salmon returning each year, a staggering number that was in large part responsible for the flour-

ishing indigenous communities of the northwest. Shortly thereafter though, the pioneers started to arrive, and with them new techniques for fishing and, in particular, canning. These technologies greatly skewed the balance of man and fish in ways that we are still experienc-ing today. In fact, less than 3 percent of the salmon that graced the Columbia in the days of Lewis and Clark now return.

Just up the road from the Cascade River, a tributary to the Skagit, is the Marblemount Fish Hatchery. One of the eighty-plus hatcheries in Washington State, this facility aids in maintaining salmon and trout popula-tions. This is a controversial subject, but proponents assert that hatcheries fuel the state’s commercial and recreational fisheries and support the many jobs that depend on them. Hatcheries were first introduced in the late 1800s when fish stocks radically collapsed due to overfishing, cannery waste and habitat destruction.

The “down side” to the proliferation of hatcheries is that as more hatchery

salmon reproduce with wild salmon, there is a risk of loss of genetic diver-sity. Hatchery-bred salmon produce offspring that are less hardy than wild salmon, making them more susceptible to disease and other threats.

Salmon have specific habitat re-quirements for spawning and maturing successfully. Upon entering the cool, clean, waters of the Cascade River, it is clear that these habitat characteristics are present. This includes fine gravel for redd (nest) making, riparian vegeta-tion and overhanging trees for shade, a good amount of large woody debris along the river banks to slow the flow down, and the right amount of velocity and stream temperatures.

My first clue that this may be a good place to take a look under the sur-face was the hordes of local fishermen on the banks of this particular part of the Cascade River. Donned in full gear and ready for the frigid waters, weird looks from these fishermen didn’t stop me. A closer look around the riverbank revealed large numbers of dead salmon, decomposing along the shore. Upon seeing this I couldn’t wait to stick my head under. Here goes nothing!

Down underImmediately, I am struck by the

strength of the water as it flows around

Jessica Newley and her ‘Secret Window’

Seeing her scars close up, looking her in the eye, and feeling her weak

muscles pulsating against my glove brought tears to my eyes.

>>> Go to to read ANW stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

my legs and torso. Even water that seems to lazily drift by is challenging to stand in without getting swept over. Luckily a large tree with roots growing out from the bank has slowed down the flow of a large area, suitable for safe entry. Looking out to the middle of the river, it wouldn’t take more than a slight slip to take me down river on an adventure I was not ready for. So, close to the bank I stayed, and soon I had my first peek into a world that I will never forget.

Instantly I was in the middle of hundreds of Pink Salmon. Males, females, fry (juveniles), eggs, mates, and enemies, they were all there, sur-rounding me in the icy water. There’s something extraordinary about being amongst these primordial beings and watching them in their natural habi-tat. It’s like peering in through a secret window into the lives of one of nature’s wildest creatures. While watching the fish swarm around me and make their redds, defend their territory, court a mate, or just plain get feisty with each other, I begin to understand a little more of the complexity of this species. I don’t know their whole story, but I try to imagine all they have been through.

Seeing their battle scars and bacteria-laden scales gives me a clue.

By the time I encounter these fish, they have traveled 70 miles from the Puget Sound, up the Skagit, and into the Cascade River. Along their journey they have fought off disease, dodged fishhooks, and escaped from predators. When they finally reach their native spawning grounds, they barely have enough life left in them to reproduce before they die. After all of this, my presence in the water didn’t seem to concern them. They didn’t seem to care at all. From a photographer’s stand-point, this gave me a great opportunity to get up close and personal with the charismatic creatures.

When trying to take pictures of salmon, it is necessary to wade for long periods of time in the water. This can get very cold, very fast, even through a dry suit and layers and layers of undergar-ments. But this also means there is much more time to witness their behavior and let them get to know you. To get a quali-ty picture it is important to get very close to the fish, especially when using a wide-angle lens. Luckily with the Pinks, this was not all that difficult to do. I found the most challenging part was staying in

one position relative to the school. I am used to ocean photography,

and being in the rushing, shallow water of the Cascade River, things were differ-ent. In order to hold my position I ended up doubling the amount of weight that I normally might use to dive with. This allowed me to stay put and allow the fish to swim up to, and past me, while I pho-tographed them. The obvious flip side to this method is that this weight is also very dangerous and I would not recom-mend that anyone try this at home. One slip into a deeper section with weights that cannot be quickly removed would spell the end.

Patience is essential. It took me a while before I got the hang of things, and finally, you could say it all just “clicked”. Since then I’ve enjoyed many happy and satisfying moments among the salmon and have taken many qual-ity photographs of this spectacular spe-cies. But, there is one special moment I had on a cold November day in the Cascade River that I will never forget.

After waiting patiently for some time in the river; cold, tired and about to end the day, I noticed a female humpy becoming very comfortable with me. There were hundreds of fish



around, but this female had very distinctive markings and was loaded with bacteria. It seemed as though every time I looked around, there she was. It wasn’t long before I could put out my hand and she would brush against it, positioning herself each time for a nice belly rub. Seeing her scars close up, looking her in the eye, and feeling her weak muscles pulsat-ing against my glove brought tears to my eyes. I couldn’t imagine all she had been through and wished I knew her story. I named her Sugar, the sweetest salmon I’ve ever known, and the time we shared together that day will never leave my mind.

Getting to intimately know these beautiful beings has been a transcen-dent experience, well worth braving the cold and the weird looks from fishermen. I took away photographs, memories and great stories to share. This fall, when the salmon run starts on the Skagit, I’ll be there...


We Frame Awesome.

bellinghamframeworks.com

Awesome.

Downtown Bellingham & LyndenDowntown Bellingham & Lynden

VotedBest Yoga!in Bellingham

12-week Fall Session: Sept 17 - Dec 9

New Student

Discount

$20 Off!

Flexibility Core Strength Vibrant Energy & Inner Bliss!

YOGA

yoganorthwest.com 360.647.0712

1440 10th Street Fairhaven Bellingham

T h e B . K . S . I y e n g a r Y o g a C e n t e r o f B e l l i n g h am

Check our website for more info.

N O R T H W E S T

Welcome to our

F r e e Classes Sept 10-16


Story by Lisa TonerWhen Dreams Come True: Climbing in the Bugaboos

WHOOSH! Calm skies become turbulent, jarring me out of my

climbing-induced reverie. The wind rips loudly over the sharp ridge upon which I stand, with a sound like tear-ing canvas. Huddling closer to the wall of cold granite, I pay out rope to my climbing partner - who also happens to be my husband. The rope twitches. He is braving unpleasant territory far above, but is moving up quickly. As I respond automatically to the slight tugs on the rope, my mind begins to swirl with the wind.

AnticipationI gaze at my surroundings: granite, ice,

sky. I realize, as if for the first time, that I am high on the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire, deep in British Columbia’s Purcell Wilderness. I find myself in this wild land-scape thanks to a combination of premedita-tion and spontaneity. Only three days ago, we were surfing weather websites. When an

unusual high-pressure system appeared, I was prepared. I pulled out the packing list and route descriptions that I had filed away years before. By the next morning, we were driving north across the border into Canada.

At the Bugaboo trailhead, we wrapped our car in chicken wire to prevent the notori-ous Bugaboo rubber-eating porcupines from dining on its soft parts. We hefted our packs and hiked the steep trail that would take us to the base of the iconic spires and the Applebee Campground.

Our first climb was a fun warm-up on the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire, where we en-joyed easy climbing, classic photos, and even an alpine composting toilet. Over hot choco-late that evening, we gazed at the next day’s objective: the Northeast Ridge of Bugaboo Spire. This is a striking line that climbs 12 pitches up a sharp ridge, traverses a convo-luted, knife-edge summit, and descends the other side via the long, technical Kain Route. From camp, we could see the entire route. It looked big.

The alarm rang early. Hurrying from


camp in the predawn, we initially felt the frantic “off to the races” feeling one gets when approaching the base of a popular climb. Glancing repeatedly over our shoulders, we preemptively dreaded the inevitable crowds and backups. However, as the sun turned the glaciers pink, we had an eerie realization: nobody else was coming. As we roped up for the first pitch of the climb, it was silent. We would be the only people on the mountain.

As promised, it was amazing: the climbing consisted of enjoyable, aesthet-ic moves on solid granite. The setting was spectacular due to the exposure and surrounding scenery. It was all that I had imagined. Then, halfway up the route, where our guidebook told us to move right into a series of easy chimneys, a beautiful 5.9 crack variation beckoned us. We climbed it, but failed to recon-nect with the chimneys. Instead, we hur-ried up into increasingly bare and break-able rock, entering the dreaded territory known to climbers as “off-route.”

HesitationNow here I am - alone on a windy

ledge, thousands of feet above solid ground. I’ve done dozens of long routes in the mountains and usually enjoy the solitude of alpine belays. But I can’t stop staring at our dubious anchor, a horn of rock slung with a thin cordelette, a simple

loop of 4-millimeter nylon cord. It breaks nearly every safety rule in the book, but it’s our only option. I look away from the anchor, hoping to find solace in the beautiful scenery, but I only notice the in-creasingly threatening clouds nearby. The

Bugaboos make their own weather and are notorious for sudden, severe thun-derstorms. The wind gusts louder, and a cold wave of dread creeps through me as I peer upward, trying to spot Jon. I begin to wonder, Why are we here?

In one sense, the answer is obvious: we are climbers, the weather is good, and this is one of the most coveted moderate routes in North America. I have had my sights set on it ever since I was a 19-year-old newbie climber. When I bought the Mountaineers’ climbing textbook, Freedom of the Hills, I was struck by its iconic cover photo: climbers on Bugaboo Spire. I thought to myself, “Wouldn’t it be crazy if I climbed that someday?” Subconsciously, I set my mind on writing this climb into my life story.

Climbing is a relatively new human experience. Before the 1800s, mountains were seen as ugly, a curse upon humani-ty. Today, our eyes are open to the beauty of the mountains and we readily yield to their call to adventure. But why do

As the sun turned the glaciers pink, we had an eerie realization: nobody else was coming. As we

roped up for the first pitch of the climb, it was silent. We would be the only people on the mountain.

in the heart of the bugaboos(l-r) Snowpatch Spire, pigeon Spire, bugaboo Spire

(front), howser towers (behind).photo by Steph Abegg


climbers climb? The mountaineering lit-erature is filled with various attempts to explain this. Some climbers wax poetic about the transcen-dence of living on the edge in remote places. Others, such as David Roberts, question climbers’ self-absorbed, com-petitive bent. James Tabor says that climbers want to en-ter the realm of myth and icon by complet-ing legendary routes.

My personal mo-tivations for climb-ing are probably a combination of all these, but if I had to summarize it I’d say this: I climb because it takes me into a story that is larger than ordinary life. I was fortunate to have friends and family who were very accomplished climbers.

Their speed, efficiency, and skill inspired me, and after going on trips with them I wondered what challenging route I would

climb next. I read countless climbing trip reports, whose nonchalant tones and factual descrip-tions made the climbs sound easy. Few mentioned the fear and emotions that come along with climbing, and though I got scared at least once per trip and witnessed a few serious ac-cidents, I brushed it off, not believ-ing that anything bad would happen

to me. I continued to rack up ascents and my ‘to-climb’ list grew ever longer. The Bugaboos in particular had attained legendary status in my imagination. However, when I find myself belaying my husband into unknown territory, my reasons for climbing no longer seem quite so clear.

ElationAs I wait for Jon

to finish the pitch, all these things whirl through my mind. It is only noon, and the weather is good so far. We’re living the dream, right? We are slightly off route, but nothing has actually gone wrong. Yet, the wind taunts me, pulling at my jacket and puff-ing up the clouds nearby. Instead of the usual peace and concentration I feel when I’m high on a belay ledge, I feel incredibly small and empty.

Jon tugs on the rope, interrupting my bleak ruminations. He has reached the top of the pitch! Finally, I can climb up. Quickly, deftly, I organize the gear, don my heavy pack, and begin padding up the steep granite. It feels like 5.10, and the rock is lichen-covered - never a good sign on a popular climb like this, which is usually polished white from thousands of hands and feet. One by one, I remove the sparse pieces of protection Jon placed, clipping them back onto my harness. Tenuously, I balance right as the pitch traverses a lichen-laden blank section. A fall here would result in a serious swing. How did he do this, I wonder in amaze-ment. I yank a lone nut out of a tiny crack, already knowing the answer: he had no other choice.

At last, I see Jon. Through some bold climbing, he has brought us back to the chimneys. Relieved, I snap back into climbing mode, regaining my usual mixture of focus and detachment. Soon, we arrive at the north summit. From here, we rappel once, then embark on a long and wildly exposed traverse. At some points, I shimmy across knife-edged ridges with sheer drops on either side. I revel in the spectacular position, taking

photos and peering gleefully downward. It is exhilarating to move confidently over terrain like this. We rappel some more, unrope, and begin climbing, solo, down the Kain Route. The shadows lengthen and we hurry. I grow callous to fear and cruise through down-climbing moves that would normally give me pause. I achieve a state of utter focus

and concentration. Finally, we reach the last section and the mental crux for me: the steep, icy Bugaboo-Snowpatch Col,

™

MADE IN BELLINGHAM.

TRUSTEDEVERYWHERE.

AVAILABLE AT THESE LOCAL RETAILERS:

• Washington Divers • Dave’s Sporting Goods

• Yeager’s • Gone Diving• Mayberry’s

• Hardware Sales• LFS Marine and Outdoor

• Sportsman Chalet • Backcountry Essentials

• Go Big Paintball• Adventure Down Under

AdventuresNW_McNettAD.indd 1 7/31/12 4:48 PM

rappelling off bugaboo Spirephoto by lisa toner

Snowpatch Spirephoto by lisa toner


complete with crevasses and ugly pock-marks in the snow from the near-constant barrage of falling rock. I am terrified of steep snow and become tense and overly cautious. More than one rock whizzes by our helmets as we slowly descend.

As darkness envelops the Bugaboos, we stumble back into camp. I’m elated, fatigued, hungry, and...empty. After big climbs I normally feel fully alive, buzzing with possibility, speculating on future ad-ventures. Now, I’m strangely hesitant to look ahead to the next climb. A big goal of mine - perhaps the goal of my climb-ing life so far - has become reality. Now, it’s a great memory. High on Bugaboo Spire, I confronted the complex mixture of dreams, fear, and elation that is a part of every climber’s experience. It’s an emo-tional shift that makes me re-think why I climb, even as I dream of returning to the mountains.

Atop the West ridge of pigeon Spire. South howser in the distance. photo by lisa toner

Check out Steph Abegg’s Bugaboo photo gallery at AdventuresNW.com.

*Price in U.S. dollars and subject to change without notice. ©2012 Wood-Mizer Products, Inc. All rights reserved.

12 sawmill models availablestarting at $3,875*

Dream it.Saw it.Build it.

800.553.0182 woodmizeroutdoors.comOregon: 503.661.1939

SAVE

UP TO

$3,600 Now thru Oct. 31, 2012

Call or go online

for details!

ORA 24366 Adventures NW - Fall.indd 1 7/30/12 10:48 AM

Downtown Co-op Cordata Co-op 1220 N. Forest St. 315 Westerly Rd. Open Daily Open Daily 7 am–10 pm 7 am–9 pm

www.communityfood.coop

Gretchen WoodySpring Frog FarmEverson

Dusty WilliamsBroadleaf FarmEverson

Local, naturally

Shawn & Clarissa Langley & familyFresh Breeze Organic Dairy Lynden

FOOD Bellingham’s Natural Grocer

CO OP

Story and photos by Craig Romano

No Time for Tea, I Have to Run: Making Tracks in Victoria, BC From the top of Mount Douglas, I find it difficult to

keep running. No, the trails and roads leading to this small peak on the outskirts of Victoria didn’t wipe me out. They’re not that long, nor that steep. No, it’s just Mount Douglas - like almost all of the other places to run throughout and around British Columbia’s capi-tal city - is just so darn beautiful; that no matter how absorbed I get into my run, I feel compelled to stop and take in the sights. That’s the biggest problem with running in Canada’s Fittest City—trying to concentrate on the run and not being stopped by the beauty of the city and its natural surroundings. But then again, the gorgeous scenery is why I enjoy running here. The trail system is excellent and extensive; there are hundreds of kilometers to keep me content for the long run!


Finlayson Arm from Jocelyn peak

race | play | experience 19 >>> Go to to read ANW stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

When Sir James Douglas established the Hudson’s Bay Company trading post at Fort Victoria back in 1843, he prob-ably had no idea that his Vancouver Island outpost would evolve into one of North America’s most charming cit-ies. Nor could he imagine that it would become Canada’s fittest city. According to Statistics Canada, 36% of Victoria’s adult population is active (nearly double the national average). How could they not be, living in such a mild climate sur-rounded by stunning coastline, golden hillsides, emerald ridges and snow-capped mountains?

In Victoria, runners are as ubiquitous as the showy gardens the city is famous for. And this city caters to them, too. There are long distance-interconnecting paved paths throughout the Capital Regional District (think great bicycling, too); greenbelts and parks in every neighbor-hood; and superb provincial and regional parks ringing the city offering topnotch trail running opportunities. When I visit Victoria, I bring both my road and trail running shoes. And if I want an organized running event, this city teems with those too, including one of the finest (and my favorite) marathons in North America.

Let me share with you some of my favorite running spots in Victoria and the Saanich Peninsula. You’ll soon discover that the only thing harder than resisting the urge to stop and smell the roses while running here, is trying to decide where to run in the first place. The choices of destinations are overwhelming! Okay, if you’re staying in the historic and charm-ing downtown, you can begin your run right from there. I like the four kilometer Westsong Walkway, which weaves along the Inner and Middle Harbours, provid-ing stunning views of the Empress Hotel, the BC Parliament building and scores of pier and wharves. Run along waters buzz-ing with the activity of sea planes, pleasure craft, passenger ferries and kayaks. When you get to the end of the trail at West Bay, and you don’t feel like running back, just hop on a passenger ferry to take you across

the harbor back to downtown. A word of caution however about this route: time it for early in the morning when throngs of tourists, street performers and downtown workers aren’t clogging the pathway.

The best running route from down-town follows paths along the Outer Harbour out to the Seawall along the Strait of Juan de Fuca. This route, mostly paralleling coastal Dallas Road, is one of the supreme scenic urban running routes in all of North America. Meander along flower-lined paths, across manicured lawns atop bluffs hovering above the shimmering waters of the Strait of Juan de Fuca. On clear days, which are frequent here within the Olympic rainshadow, gaze out to the craggy and snow covered cloud-wringing Olympic Mountains. Watch for eagles, waterfowl, whales and seals.

Where Dallas meets Douglas Street, run past Mile 0 of the Trans-Canada Highway and perhaps reflect upon the

memorial to runner Terry Fox, one of Canada’s most beloved native sons. Back in 1980 the Port Coquitlam, BC resident embarked on a “Marathon of Hope,” running across Canada bringing aware-ness to cancer, which the 22-year old Fox was battling. On a prosthetic leg, Terry left Newfoundland running the equiva-lent of a marathon a day, covering over 3,300 miles before having to stop because his bone cancer had metastasized to his lungs. He passed away the following year after inspiring an entire nation and peo-ple worldwide. He is one of my personal heroes. From this moving memorial, you can divert onto trails through lovely Beacon Hill Park, or continue along the coastal bluffs east to Clover Point, Ross Bay, or all the way to Gonzales Bay, eight kilometers from your start!

You want a long distance route right from your downtown hotel? Head north along the Inner Harbour across the Johnston Street Bridge, veering right

Danne Neill ABR, CRS, SRES, EcoBroker ABR Accredited Buyers RepresentativeCRSSRES Seniors Real Estate SpecialistThe Muljat Group Broadway

Realtor – Broker

Bellingham, WA(360) [email protected]

Helping clients find

in the Pacific Northwesttheir place

the seawall along dalles road in Victoria


to hop aboard one of the finest rail trails in the Pacific Northwest, the Galloping Goose Trail. Named after a 1920s gasoline-pow-ered passenger car, this trail consists of both paved and gravel sec-tions of the former rail line. From Victoria’s Upper Harbour, this popular trail spans the Gorge Waterway via the 300-meter wooded Selkirk Trestle before heading north-ward through the city. At four kilometers it intersects with the Lochside Trail. From here the Galloping Goose traverses west-ern suburbs, beauti-ful Matheson Lake Regional Park, and

the northern shores of Sooke Basin. It then follows the Sooke River into wilder country terminating 60 kilometers from its start at the site of an old mining town, Leechtown.

The 29-kilometer Lochside Trail heads north through the Swan Lake Nature Sanctuary before making its way up the Saanich Peninsula to Sidney and Schwartz Bay. Both the Galloping Goose and Lochside Trails will appeal more to cyclists than to runners—but

ultra runners will certainly delight in them. And while the Lochside Trail is more of a bike commuter route, I highly recommend the section through and just north of the Swan Lake sanctuary. Here you’ll cross several restored old rail-road trestles including one that is nearly 1,000 feet long across Blenkinsop Lake, right next to Mount Douglas. Of course, you can head over to Mount Douglas’s trails from here—but only if you want to enjoy sweeping views out to Mount Baker, the Olympics, and the San Juan and Gulf Islands from this beloved peak’s 853-foot summit. There are kilometers of trails on Mount “Doug”, including along beautiful Cordova Bay.

If you prefer flat and fast, just to the west of Mount Doug is the large Elk/Beaver Lake Regional Park. Consisting of over 1,000 acres, this park contains the adjoining lakes of Elk and Beaver, old-growth forest, sprawling fields, sandy beaches and kilometers of excellent, al-most level trails. The Thetis Lake Regional Park just north of Victoria is another local (and my) favorite spot for trail running. In this sprawling 2,000-acre park you can join hundreds of other runners for the 5 kilometer trip around the two Thetis Lakes—or venture off on side trails to groves of giant Douglas firs, grassy ridges punctuated with oaks or along inlets and peninsulas harboring gnarly madronas (arbutus here in BC).

The nearby Mount Work Regional Park is a great place for a lung-busting trail run. Follow a 6 kilometer trail up and

https://home.wellsfargoadvisors.com/josh.barrett

Along the Seawall, dalles road in Victoria


over this 1,473-foot peak, the highest on the Saanich Peninsula and be prepared for visual paralysis. It will inflict you several times along this elongated peak as you break out of forest cover onto the rocky ledges granting jaw-dropping views of

Victoria, the San Juan Islands, Salt Spring Island and the Olympics. While taking in the sights, be sure to watch your footing as the terrain on Mount Work is much like an Appalachian Mountain - rocky and ledgy. You definitely don’t want a “Work” related injury!

The supreme Victoria area trail running experience awaits you at the sprawling Gowlland Tod Provincial Park. Named after the Gowlland Range of peaks rising over 1,300 feet above dra-matic Finlayson Arm and beautiful Tod Inlet, this 3,000 acre park is the largest natural area on the Saanich Peninsula and offers more than 25 kilometers of trail.

From the McKenzie Bight Trailhead, start off on a challenging and visually stimulating traverse of the range. Drop into a lush ravine to rocky, undeveloped coastline and then start a grueling climb, passing a nearly-hidden waterfall. On rough terrain (but generally good tread),

rock and roll up and over several summits including Jocelyn Peak and run along the fjord’s edge on your way to Holmes Peak. From here you could go farther up and over steep Mount Finlayson, but that’s pushing it! When I did the traverse to Holmes Peak and back earlier this sum-mer, I was more than content (and a bit sore) completing 25 kilometers of the most scenic and challenging trail within the Capital Regional District.

I’m not surprised at all that Victoria

is Canada’s fittest city. I know every time I visit, I can’t resist taking off for the region’s excellent parks and kilometers of beauti-ful trails. One of these days however, I’ll try to make tea time—but it has to be after my run is done!

ncascades.org (360) 854-2599

coming up with North Cascades Institute

Connecting People, Nature & Education since 1986

BEN

J DRU

MM

OND

Creative Arts Retreat • Mountain School • Group RentalsDiablo Downtime • Citizen Science • Mount Baker Mushrooms

Plein Air Painting • Fall Sourdough Speaker Series

running in gowlland tod provincial park

Book your ADVENTURE

today!

...all ages and abilities can enjoy fun and unique sailing adventures, customized sailing instruction, or

carefree skippered sailing experiences!

embarking from Bellingham’s Historic Fairhaven—the southern

terminus of the Alaska Ferry—just 90 minutes North of Seattle and

60 minutes South of Vancouver, BC.

Story and photos by Laural Ringler

Hiking the

Don’t try this at home,” I felt compelled to tell my teenage son, as we both stuck out our thumbs to

hitch a ride from the coast of Vancouver Island near Port Renfrew back to Jordan River. Thus commenced our family hitchhiking competition. My daughter and husband were one team, my son and I the other, hav-ing split the family up to optimize our chances of rides back to the trailhead. After 47 km of backpacking the Juan de Fuca Trail, we were five days on the other side of our last showers and hoped to get back to the car in time to catch a ferry and head home yet that night.

With a teen and a preteen, the trip had begun with nego-tiations. No longer can the parents plan everything, hand them

a packing list, and have everyone interested and motivated. “Biking, backpacking, or kayaking?” was my first question. Dana was up for anything but had already done a kayaking trip with me that summer. Noah said, “not biking.” So I started researching backpacking options.

Dana and I had planned to hike the West Coast Trail on Vancouver Island the previous summer, but had cancelled when she got sick. That extremely popular trail has a reserva-tion system and significant transportation logistics, including ferry reservations to cross the Nitinat Narrows and the Gordon River. The Juan de Fuca Trail, which traces the island’s coast just to the south of the West Coast Trail had none of those. Juan De Fuca it was.

So we loaded our backpacks, caught a morning ferry from

Juan de Fuca Trail“


Near payzant Creek


Tsawwassen to Vancouver Island and drove to the trailhead at China Beach. We paid our backcountry camping fees and hit the trail, winding through the cool forest towards the water. At Mystic Beach, campsites were tucked up above high tide line, behind drift logs, or even a little farther into the bushes or trees. We found a site up the beach, and after a quick tent- pitch and kitchen set-up (one kid does each and they swap every night), the kids were free to play on the beach. With sun and sand and dramatic north-west rock, they built castles and drew in the sand, and we explored a wide, tumbling wa-terfall on the south end of the beach. We’d only hiked 2 km, but already felt a world away from the day’s car ride.

The next morning was softened by fog, the beach felt lonely, and we were happy to pack up and move on. Post oatmeal, we headed into a 19 km day, which would include what was billed as the most difficult section of the trail. 7 km in, Bear Beach consisted of wave-smoothed boulders that we alternately hopped over and walked between. The rocks were varied, beauti-ful marbled greens, or grays mottled with black. This point marked the first beach cut-off, with a second route option for when the low path would be im-passable at high tide. The tide was low for us though, so we chose the beach scramble ankle workout, and snacked at the far edge of the section. In between cracker and cheese bites, the kids threw rocks into the water from the mini-bluff where we’d dropped our packs. The sun had come out, the waves crashed on the rocky shore, and we felt lucky to be out.

Fueled up for what our map labeled the “most difficult” section, we con-tinued on. The terrain was incredibly

varied: soft sand beach, rock slabs, rocky beach, dirt trail, log trail or boardwalk weaving in and out of trees, and all of it up and over or around headlands. The log trail sections were huge trees notched for sure footing, sometimes in connected sections that had you walking one to an-other to another - ten feet above the for-est floor - through and above a jumble of fallen trees. We felt small. And decided

“most difficult” meant most undulating. Every thirty- to fifty-foot vertical

climb was followed by a similar down-climb minutes later, as we navigated dozens of drainages. The ascents and descents were on notched trees, laddered steps, actual ladders, and sometimes deployed a splintery rope to hold onto while your feet sought purchase on dirt or smooth, wet rock. When we stopped for lunch, I noticed Noah had already eaten half of the snacks I’d given him for the next three days. Teen guy was hun-

grier than I’d planned.We were glad to reach our day’s des-

tination at Chin Beach and relax. The kids built sand and stone cities across ex-panses of beach, and later raced around defending them when the tide came in. Tom and I lounged in the sun and ad-mired their architectural feats.

With only 8 km to Sombrio Beach the next day, we had plenty of time when

we got there to explore. Green water-worn rock walls three times our height twisted away from the beach. The occasion-al fern frond growing from a tiny rock ledge waved in the breeze created by a waterfall. The slot canyon narrowed to a couple of pools and then yet another waterfall - cold, clear, and misty-white.

We had encountered one suspension bridge between Chin Beach and Sombrio, but the next day we crossed two more, high and wide metal structures above leafy forests. Sometimes the kids dropped their packs and went back across to experience the height and sway a second time. Teen guy was still eating a lot, and hiking strong in his jeans. Tom and I cut back on our food and handed it to Noah.

Our final night at Payzant Creek was high above the ocean in the forest. After the

exposed beach camps, it felt strange. We sought out open space near the water so we could eat dinner watching the crash of the surf. The rock consisted of vast slabs of water-sculpted jaggedness, and looked like volcanic Hawai’i.

The next morning, we hiked the final 7 km to Botanical Beach and found crowds of people wandering among the rocks, studying the prodigious tide pools. There were families with small kids and floppy beach hats, seniors with walking sticks, and we heard “Look!”


exploring the slot canyon above Sombrio beach


and “Come see!” in a jumble of languag-es. We stashed our packs and joined in.

I was looking at barnacles and lim-pets in a particularly large pool when a

tentacle waved at me from behind leafy green seaweed. It took me a few seconds to register suction cups, and my brain to think, “Octopus!” I didn’t want to yell

and scare it, so I glanced side-ways for my family and ges-tured them over. The tentacle withdrew. But then it reap-peared and the entire animal glided towards me, reddish and huge. I felt the members of my family breathing next to me, silently watching the cephalopod. None of us called out. The octopus’ two or three foot body became a little oranger and plumper, then it continued its cruise around the pool, and disap-peared behind the seaweed. We continued to explore the tide pools, but nothing was as magnificent as seeing a Giant Pacific Octopus in the wild.

We had lunch and then debated which people looked approach-able for a ride back to our car at the trailhead. Tom found a trio of women who were day hiking and had decided to

Lithtex1/4 V

Along the way: dana and Noah above the surf


switch trailheads - they could take two people halfway back. So after we out-lined the “whoever-gets-to-the-car-first-wins” concept, he and Dana took that ride and Noah and I walked to where the parking lot meets the road, thumbs out.

Immediately, a van pulled over. A local native couple invited us in, their van a jumble of possessions and a big old dog. We bal-anced on the edge of the bench seat with the dog and they took us into Port Renfrew and dropped us at the main intersection. I told Noah to look friendly and adoptable and we stuck out our thumbs again. Nothing for twenty minutes, then a father and his ten-year-old son pulled over. We’d seen them on the trail the last day, and they were headed to Victoria so they could take us the entire way. Yes!

Highway 14 was a blacktop version of the Juan de Fuca trail, all ups and downs and curves. I sat in back, thank-ful for the ride and wondered how Tom and Dana were doing. And then I saw them standing on the side of the road. I registered Dana’s smiling face and jaunty hat and thumb, and my first thought was

“how could no one pick them up, Dana is so darn cute!” My second thought was that we had to pick them up. I yelled to our new friend, and he pulled over. We crowded four in the

backseat and continued on to our car. It was hard to determine who won

the competition, though. A tie? Or did Noah and I win because the other two came into the ride after us? Or did the footrace in the parking lot to touch the car first determine it? If so, Noah and Dana won.

[email protected]

3410 Woburn St. Suite 202

Erik DeRoche • DC, MS, CSCS

Ask about

TEAM CHIROPRACTOR: USA Swimming’s High Performance NetworkWWU Track & Field and Cross Country

Personalized treatment for your body’s healthWork-Accident-Sports RelatedSoft Tissue and Joint Therapy

INJURY PREVENTION TO PERFORMANCE

NW >>>Call Dennis

at 360-510-3278 or email [email protected]

Your marketing professional

ADVENTURESAdvertise in Adventures NW and reach 60,000 of our region’s most active, engaged and hyped-up readers!

[email protected]

3610 Meridian St. Bellingham

There’s no place likeHOME...

Sally FarrellRealtor®

The ascents and descents were on notched trees, laddered steps,

actual ladders, and sometimes a splintery rope to hold onto

while your feet sought purchase on dirt or smooth, wet rock.

26 race | play | experience 26 race | play | experience

“But tomorrow may rain, soI’ll follow the sun”

- Lennon & McCartney

Depending on when you read this, that rude saucy lass named Autumn is here or on her way. And

with her, she bears gifts of spit-in-your-face rain, mud by the bucket load and gloom-filled skies of perpetual gray.

As an avid cyclist of both persuasions - road and mountain - this pisses me off. More than a little. I’m loathe to let go of the golden, seemingly endless days of summer riding. Rides that ooze of perpetual youth and playfulness, of spinning the legs sans shoe covers, leg warmers, rain caps and the like.

It’s not so much that I don’t like fall as much as, … actually, no, I don’t like fall. Not at all. I wish Autumn would pack up her things and go back to where she came from.

Oh well, no matter. Fall happens every year so I’m used to it. (Sorta.) Besides, there are places not too far away where sum-mer’s grip hangs on for just a bit longer and where it’s possible to squeeze in a few more good-weather rides.

Winthrop (Methow Valley)With its Old West vibe - vintage 1890s storefronts, wooden

sidewalks, hitching posts and the like - Winthrop has a knack for nurturing one’s inner cowboy. (And cowgirl and cowchild too.) A knack, too, for being sunnier and drier than the west side of the Cascades, with countless miles of trails meandering up and down the nearby hills, dales and valleys, it’s a great big slice of nirvana for us fall-phobic mountain-bike types.

Plus, it’s got the alpine larch trees, those amazing conifers whose needles turn from green to yellow - usually sometime in October - and thus transform the forests into blazing displays of mountain gold. But that’s a little higher, generally on the eastern slopes of the Cascades above 5,000 feet. Luckily, the Methow

Autumn Bike Rides without the Gore-TexStory and photos by Mike McQuaide

Chasing the Sun: is a road-biking nirvana as well, with several paved roads that head for the gold in them thar hills.

Here are a couple of suggestions: Falls Creek Road - From Winthrop, head north on

Westside Chewuch Road for about 11 miles to Forest Road 5140, also called Falls Creek Road. Turn left and climb, climb, climb as the narrow, paved mountain road gains 2,800 feet over the next 11-plus miles before ending high up in Okanogan National Forest. Ogle (or is it oogle?) stunning views of larch-clad Big Craggy Peak and Isabella Ridge as you


bellingham’s Scott young rides the interurban


reach the turnaround point. Washington Pass from the East—

Lots of Westside folks make an annual west-east Highway 20 pedaling pilgrim-age over Washington Pass and down into Mazama and beyond. If you’re already in Winthrop, however, consider an eastside approach climbing to that great big hair-pin turn in the sky just below the awe-inspiring Liberty Bell massif. (Even more inspiring when the larch have turned.) Turn around at the pass and Wheee!, it’s all downhill for almost 20 miles back to the Methow. From Winthrop, it’s a 60-mile out-and-back with 4,800 feet of climbing; from Mazama it’s 35 miles with just a little less climbing.

(Note: After Labor Day, Highway 20 traffic is far less busy than in summer.)

Wenatchee Staying with the east-of-the moun-

tains theme, Wenatchee is one of my favorite spots to follow the sun and hang on to summer. That’s because of

its claimed 300-day annual allotment of sun and its stunning setting on the mighty Columbia River at the foot of

numerous huge dry hills and ridges: Badger Mountain, Jumpoff and Mission Ridges, Sage Hills, et al.


the Wenatchee Foothills trails overlook Wenatchee and the Columbia river


As in the Methow, myriad roads and/or trails head up into them thar hills inviting two-wheeled aficionados to have a climb and get rewarded with a big-time view of the entire Wenatchee Valley. But it’s not just climbers who are rewarded. The Apple Capital Recreation Loop Trail (that’s a mouthful) is a paved,

mostly flat, 10-miler that explores both sides of the Columbia River and is perfect for families and/or the hill-phobic. Pick it up at several riverside spots in Wenatchee including Wenatchee Confluence State Park and Walla Walla Point Park or, on the East Wenatchee side, at the 27th Street and 19th Street trailheads.

For some mellow, cross-country type mountain bike trails, make for the Wenatchee Foothills Trails, accessible by following 5th Street east to Number 1 Canyon Road in Wenatchee. Here you’ll find a fun network of singletrack trails contouring up and down across the mostly treeless shrub-steppe foothills. Tree-less means a couple things: fantastic panoramic vistas of the Columbia River and its environs pretty much the entire way, but also the potential for wind and, depending on when you visit, heat.

In the mood to tilt at a big-league, Mount Baker-esque road climb? Head for Badger Mountain Road on the East Wenatchee side of the Columbia. The shoulder is wide, the pavement smooth as glass, but there’s no getting around that it’s a spot-of-bother maker as it climbs some 2,800 feet in 8 miles. But the rewards are as huge as the effort it takes to get there. See previous mention re: panoramic vista of the Columbia River valley (albeit from the other side of the river) but now add views to Ronsen Ridge, the Wenatchee Mountains and seemingly the entire Central Cascades, no doubt now frosted with the season’s first snowfalls.

Orcas IslandCloser to Whatcom County, the

horseshoe-shaped San Juan Island that is Orcas is blessed to be in the Olympic rain shadow and as such, receives about 25 percent less rainfall than Bellingham. Road cyclists eager to spin some fall road miles into their legs can park their cars at the Anacortes ferry terminal and save about a bazillion dollars by taking the fer-ry to Orcas as a bicycle passenger. There, with summer crowds gone, you’ll have the island seemingly to yourself and be able to crisscross its numerous rolling country roads past llama farms, artists’ studios, open fields and forests without worrying too much about car traffic. (‘Cept maybe when the ferry’s just landed.) Off-season, the pace in not-at-all-bustling Eastsound, the island’s charming main town, seems even less hurried.

InWALK Out

RUN

Run in for smart and friendly service and walk out with everything you need to keep that pep in your step

Exceptional Service + Shoes + Apparel and Really Cool Stuff!

1209 11th Street | Bellingham | 360.676.4955 | www.FairhavenRunners.com Mon - Sat: 10 - 7 | Sun: 11 - 5

under cerulean skies in the Methow Valley, riders pedal away the morning’s autumn chill


Get your climb on by heading to the top of Mount Constitution - the 2,409-foot high point (literally) of spec-tacular Moran State Park - for perhaps the most scenic best-of viewpoint in all the Northwest: Jewel-like islands by the dozens, jagged peaks and snow-capped mountains, deep darks forests and lots and lots of water.

Moran State Park brings us to mountain biking as well. Already a fun place to put fat tires to trail, Moran opens up about a dozen more miles to mountain bikes come September 15. Included are some of the park’s most scenically spectacular (and challeng-ing) trails including Twin Lakes, Cold Springs and Little Summit, which fol-lows the spine of Mount Constitution’s ridgeline. They’re heavenly ribbons of dirt that slalom through lodgepole-pine forest and alongside peaceful mountain lakes, marshes and stunning waterfalls. Seriously, it’s bomb-worthy stuff.

Whatcom CountyOf course, another option is not

to go anywhere. To quit whining about fall’s crummy weather, break out the foul-weather gear and just make the best of it. Which, as happens every year, I’ll no doubt do. I’ll mountain bike Galby and the Chuckanuts, relying on the trees to sorta somewhat protect me from the elements. I’ll throw down at a cyclocross race or three, and have great fun immers-

ing myself in that type of riding that em-braces the worst weather.

I’ll make the best of it. And at some point, usually around Thanksgiving or so, I’ll even begin to accept that summer is over. Acceptance begets strength, I’ve found, and soon enough I’ll find I have the strength …

… to begin counting down the days ‘til next summer.

Specializing in fresh, handmade, pasta and ravioli, homemade bread, and many other

favorites prepared daily.Beer, Wine & Cocktails

1317 North State Street, Bellingham(360) 714-0188

dannascafeitaliano.com

Now Providing Gluten-Free Options

pedaling to the top of 2,409-foot Mount

Constitution on orcas island rewards

with epic views

Right in Your Own Backyard...The west coast’s largest bareboat charter sailing fleet

and sailing school. Local ownership, personalized service!

Squalicum Harbor Bellingham, WA (800) 677-7245www.sanjuansailing.com


The Colors of AutumnBrett Baunton:

Fall is the fabulous season of color. The Northwest is blessed with amazing fall scenery; flaming vine maples and mountain ash, meadows loaded with blueberries and crimson red foliage. Light, shadow and the contrasting colors add texture and interest.

I love to watch the light, the colors, and the seasons change - to be

immersed in these dramatic events is my goal as a nature photographer.

My photo adventures follow the seasons and fall is unquestionably the peak experience of my year. The days can be crisp and clear with a blissful breeze (and no bugs). I can feel the seasons change and take delight in seeing the first snows soften the high places.

Clockwise from above: Aspens on Sun Mountain, Methow Valley; False hellebore, Mt. baker; larch at blue lake; Aspen leaf, Methow Valley; Flaming Mountain Ash and Mt. Shucksan, yellow Aster butte; Maple leaf.


All year I anticipate my annual larch tour high on the Cascade Crest. Alpine larch are remarkable trees that turn gold before shedding their needles. Besides the fact that these are the highest elevation trees, each one has a unique character.

At times like this the indoors is over-rated. Rain or shine, it’s ‘f-8 and be there’ for the best results. I really enjoy studying maps and route finding to ideal vantage points. I fell in love with backcountry travel in Alaska and found that beyond the beaten tracks lies the mystery of discovery. My favorite perch is high upon an alpine ridge with mountains above and beauty at my feet. Admission is often high in sweat equity but nature’s col-orful gifts are unsurpassed and being there makes my life all the richer.

Check out Brett’s new website at www.baytobaker.com.

Check out Brett Baunton’s Autumn Colors photo gallery at AdventuresNW.com.


A Journey to the Arctic

Story and photos by John D’Onofrio

I first heard about Tombstone Territorial Park in north-ern Canada a few years ago. What I heard intrigued me.

The park is brand new; it was created in 1998, and its man-agement plan - which enabled it to begin operations - only won approval in 2009. The signs saying “Welcome to Tombstone” went up last August.

Located in the northern Yukon Territory, the Tombstone Range has been described as “the Patagonia of Canada” for its collection of soaring monoliths rising above the treeless tundra - an other-worldly landscape of harsh beauty. The park consists of wilderness on a truly epic scale and is home to a virtually untouched ecosystem that includes grizzly bears, wolves, wolverines and caribou. Its 2200 square kilometers boasts a single hiking trail – the trail to Grizzly Lake – and even this is more a rough and tumble route over rocks and ridges than a trail in the usual sense of the word. Wild with a capital W.

And amongst a select cadre of autumn color cognoscenti, the Tombstones are quietly emerging as a world-class destination for brilliant fall colors. But presently, this park remains little-known and little-visited. Facilities are minimal. The chance to explore this epic landscape before it was “discovered” was irresistible.

And so, with my old travelling pal Godfrey Winfield, I hit the road north for the 2,000 mile drive from Bellingham to the Grizzly Lake trailhead.

Into the Tombstones:


A Journey to the Arctic


tombstone Mountain and Mount Monolith on the trail into the heart of the tombstone range

Into the TombstonesThree and a half days later, suffering

from serious road fatigue, we found our-selves heading north on the Dempster ‘Highway’, Canada’s northern-most road (see page 36). It was early evening when the Tombstones came into view, like the Hallelujah Chorus, off to the west. An amazing - and sobering - sight. From a distance, it was easy to see how the mountains got their Anglo name - the sheer rock towers surely resemble mas-sive tombstones, a giant’s graveyard. The Gwich’in people, ancestral inhabitants of these isolated mountains, called them Ddhal Ch’el, which translates roughly as “among the sharp, ragged, rocky moun-tains”. No kidding.

The next morning we visited the

Tombstone Interpretive Center to se-cure hiking permits. The facility,like the park, is brand new - an off-the-grid wonder of timber and stone. To get a permit, it was necessary to sign a waiver

acknowledging that if we didn’t return, no one would come looking for us. A nice touch, we thought.

Our route would take us up onto Grizzly Ridge before dropping beside Grizzly Creek into the Grizzly Valley

and finally reaching Grizzly Lake. I was glad that I’d brought the bear spray.

At the trailhead, we hoisted our backpacks under clear blue skies and started up through a forest of brilliant yellow birch trees. Before long we found ourselves at the upper edge of the tree line, ascending a rocky alpine ridge, views widening with each step upward. All around us the sub-arctic wilderness was a blaze of color – the yellow forests yielding to deep red tundra where the ridges climbed out of the valley of the North Klondike River.

We traversed the top of the serpen-tine ridge, climbing through notches and side-hilling on loose rocks. In the distance to the west we began to get glimpses of the dark towers that encircled Grizzly Lake. Rising like


Our route would take us up onto Grizzly Ridge before dropping beside Grizzly Creek into the Grizzly Valley

and finally reaching Grizzly Lake. I was glad that I’d brought the bear spray.

Sunrise illuminates grizzly lake


the mountains of Mordor, Tombstone Mountain and Mount Monolith crowded the sky.

After more than nine hours on the ridge, the route descended to golden mead-ows, bustling with marmots. Another exhausting hour and a half over slippery lichen-covered boulders brought us to the austere shores of the lake in its cold and treeless cirque beneath vertical walls of stone. We had it all to ourselves.

Beneath the TowersThe immensity and pri-

mordial emptiness of the place was overwhelming: wilderness on a scale that we don’t often get to experi-ence. It was a place where conversations were held in hushed tones.

We spent the next few days explor-ing the wild vertical topography around

Grizzly Lake - climbing scree slopes to high and lonely ledges, watching rainbows shimmer over shattered grey rocks, silently observing as the sunrises and sunsets bathed the epic landscapes with luminescent light.

Wandering through knee-high ‘for-

ests’ of dwarf birch, across mossy-green bogs and through fields of played-out fireweed, we were reminded of sum-mer’s brief seductive blossoming here just below the arctic circle. From the high places, the great towers loomed,

continued on page 37


rainbows over grizzly Valley.

360-739-3380 dawndurand.com

[email protected]

Dawn DurandCall

The market is turning.

Stand tall & take a step!Stand tall & take a step!

Selling in Whatcom County for 20+ years

Lake 22 Trail

>>> Go to to read ANW stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.AdventuresNW.com36 race | play | experience

Road to Adventure: The Dempster Highway

Twenty years ago, i had the pleasure of travelling to the arctic coast of Alaska via the dalton “highway”, the 400-mile long gravel haul road built to construct the Alaska pipeline that stretches to the

beaufort Sea. hiking in the brooks range and experiencing the vast limit-less wilderness of the Arctic coastal plain have been treasured memories ever since.

So when contemplating a journey to the tombstone range in the northern yukon territory, the dempster highway caught my eye. besides the haul road, the dempster - Canada’s northern-most road - is the only other road in North America that crosses the Arctic Circle. beginning in the north-ern yukon territory near dawson, the road contin-ues past the tombstones, winding its way north for 450 miles, crossing the Arctic Circle and entering the Northwest territories before ending at inuvik, an inuvialuit village on the fabled MacKenzie river delta.

the first gas station is 230 miles up the road (a sur-real motel/café/highway maintenance facility called eagle plains). these miles are blessedly devoid of civilization. other than the tombstone territorial park interpretive center and the odd outfitters cabin, there are virtually no other struc-tures of any kind along the way.

So after a spectacular hike in the tombstone range, near the southern terminus of the dempster, it seemed only proper to explore farther north

on this lonely road. the route will take us up the valleys of storied rivers - the North Klondike, blackstone, ogilvie, and peel; rivers that, for all intents and purposes, are unchanged from ancient times, save the wearing of water on stone and the almost unimaginable weight of winters that settle over these northern lands for most of the year.

the road, at least as far as the border with the Northwest territories, is devoid of towns, and largely empty of people. it’s surface is gravel and dirt. Walk in any direction and you’re on your own. North of tombstone park, the road tra-verses the treeless blackstone uplands, a vast area of tundra and rolling hills. Kettle ponds are scattered about the landscape and the area is popular with alces alcesgigas, the tundra moose.

As we travel north along the blackstone river, the ogilvie Mountains rise in the distance. Chalk-white, these bare, rounded peaks hang spectrally against

the northern horizon. the play of light and shadow on their slopes is a visual spectacle. Camping along the dempster is as easy as pulling off the road on any number of gravel tracks that inevitably lead to the banks of one of the rivers. Solitude is a given. So is the relentless wind.

darkness finally comes and the Aurora borealis dances in the sky, shim-mering red, blue, green, yellow among the stars. under such conditions, sleep is not easily contemplated.

North of the ogilvies, the road climbs to the top of eagle plains, a high plateau with panoramic views back at the white mountains and ahead to the richardson range. We stop here for showers and gas. Everyone stops

for gas at eagle plains. it’s the only gas station along a 570 mile stretch of highway.

Continuing north, we cross the eagle river, it’s banks a yellow blaze of aspens, and drive through vast landscapes of spindly black spruce - the taiga forest, land of little sticks. the scale is hard to internalize. A roadside sign marks the crossing of the Arctic Circle. beyond rock Creek (an actual campground here, out of the wind), the road climbs into the richardsons and roiling clouds. We enter the Northwest territories in a

serious blow, visibility down to a hundred feet. We turn around at Wright pass, wheels spinning in the mud. time to head home, which from these lonely mountains, seems very far away indeed.

North of the Artic Circle, the richardson Mountains rise above vast taiga forest

the Aurora borealis


black as midnight. And the colors: cadmium yellow, cardinal red, deep magenta, burnt umber; a landscape that could’ve been painted by Van Gogh.

The weather changed every couple of hours: sunshine, clouds, rain, hail, snow, sunshine again. When the rains blew in, the veiled peaks took on the sublime appearance of a Chinese brush painting, hard edges gone, a setting for dreams.

On the third day, a party of hearty Germans arrived at the lake, their oompah bravado and gung-ho enthusi-asm quickly muted by the scale of the landscape. They ate quietly from foil pouches. “We are eating moose flesh”, one of them told me, and sure enough, they’d brought packaged moose, pro-cured in Sweden.

As dusk fell, a gentle rain began to fall and the wind blew like Lester Young’s horn through the rocks; a lonely and forlorn song, a lament and an anthem.

In the pre-dawn morning every-thing was iced up and I tried to keep warm waiting with my camera and tri-pod for the sunrise to reach the lake, its

surface a mirror broken by protruding rocks the color of ghosts. The arrival of the sun bathed the cirque in radiant,

golden light and the chill was instantly forgotten. I lingered on the shore of the lake, reluctant to leave, savoring the play of light and dancing cloud shad-ows on the soaring walls of stone.

We loaded our packs and climbed back up onto the ridge for the journey back to the trailhead, turning often for long, luscious looks back at the tower-ing monoliths. In my life I’ve had the exceedingly good fortune to experi-ence some of North America’s premier mountain landscapes - the Canadian Rockies, Denali and the Alaska Range, the Brooks Range, the Sierras, and of course our own beloved North Cascades. But between you and me, the Tombstones really peg the meter.

Just don’t tell anyone.

Portions of this story previously ap-peared in Cascadia Weekly.


eARTh

My art often uses a sense of place as though it were a language. the earthy, muted colors of the Northwest’s tangled underbrush can be found in my palette. last year, i created a series of assemblages made for, and from, the pacific Northwest—inspired by being rooted here for over fifty years. these artworks contain wasp nests, bullet casings, snail and robin shells, rusted metal, baling twine, discarded electrical components, pollen, as well as hand-made paper containing cattail and cottonwood fluff, pond scum and an entire bird’s nest. each detail becomes a representative of our rain-shadowed environment.

The art of nature

Anita K. Boyle’s Northwest-inspired Assemblages

Check out an expanded photo gallery of images from the Tombstone Range and the northern Yukon at AdventuresNW.com

grizzly lake

Story by Ted Rosen

George Dyson: From Tree House to Turing’s Cathedral

There’s something curious about George Dyson. You won’t see it when you meet him. He’s a fairly

non-descript, private fellow with a slight build and a rumpled appearance. He doesn’t exude charisma and gravitas. But behind his green eyes is a man of deep in-tellect and determination. It isn’t apparent. You’ve got to dig a little...

George’s father, Freeman Dyson, is a world-famous physi-cist who revolutionized quantum electrodynamics. Freeman’s speculations about alien life have spawned entire genres of sci-ence fiction. But it’s unfair to say that George grew up in the shadow of his famous father. That’s because George doesn’t see any shadow. George is George and Freeman is Freeman. There is no competition. That’s why George has no qualms about having ditched academia and gone on to startle the world in his own way: perhaps more subtly, but no less effectively.

38 race | play | experience AdventuresNW.com >>> Go to to read ANW stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

“If you think adventure is dangerous, try routine. It is lethal.”- Paulo Coelho

photo by ted rosen


Out to SeaWay back in 1970,

17-year-old George at-tended his sister’s wedding in Vancouver, BC. While there, he answered a classified ad for a deckhand - even though he had never been to sea in his life. “The boat wasn’t even finished; I helped build it. And then one day - August 11th, 1970 - we put the boat in the water and suddenly we were out to sea! One day the boat was in the water and the next day we went up to Johnstone Strait. I still remember the first day, going out in all these strong northwest swells. I just loved it! Half the people were seasick but I just took to it very naturally.”

Thus began a series of seafaring odys-seys that George undertook among the forested islands, rainy inlets and rocky shores of British Columbia and southeast Alaska. Leaving behind the noise and tumult of human society, George built a tree house 90 feet high in an ancient ce-dar amidst the quiet calm of Vancouver’s Burrard Inlet. Below his lofty abode, he built a work shop from which he would produce increasingly complex and sea-worthy kayaks.

Not just any kayaks, though. George researched and studied the Aleut-style skin-on-frame kayaks known as baid-arkas that First Nations people created (and Russians adopted) to ply the coastal waters of southern Alaska. These sturdy, lightweight, efficient machines fascinated

George. Building them and piloting them became his obsession. From the geomet-ric beauty of their ribbed design to the mathematical efficiency of their skin sur-faces against salt water, the baidarka was more than a kayak. It was a harmonious exaltation of human ingenuity in design.

George’s adventures were famously documented in Kenneth Brower’s won-derful book The Starship and the Canoe. The son of George’s personal hero, Sierra Club founder David Brower, Ken spent months in George’s company and pad-dled with him on several journeys. His book remains a favorite among kayakers all over the world and should be read by anyone who cares to reflect on nature.

Kayaking has plenty of rewards. Skimming quietly over the waves, pad-dling rhythmically and getting a surf ’s-eye-view of the glory of Earth’s coastlines, paddling has an unmatched charm all its own. This joy is all the more visceral

when you experience it like George did. “I like long trips. I don’t want to go

kayaking for an hour or two hours or even three days. To me it only makes sense to be kayaking for months. If you’re hik-ing or bicycling, you can predict a path. Unless something goes drastically wrong, you can stay on schedule. With kayaking, it is absolutely unpredictable. Some days, I’d make five miles. Other days, I’d make eighty or ninety miles. You just can’t tell. It’s very hard to plan a one week kayak trip. You may have a good day, then need more than a week to get back, so where can you go?”

You see, for George, kayaking was not a hobby. It was everything. It was the culmination of his beautiful baidarka designs. It was his way of communing with nature and it was his primary form of transportation. The Starship and the Canoe contains many moving and haunt-ing tales of George’s experiences among


perhaps george’s greatest baidarka, The Mount Fairweather at belcarra park, bC in 1975. photo by george dyson

the baidarka: A harmonious exaltation of human ingenuity in design. photo courtesy of george dyson


the waves in his baidarkas, in-cluding a chilling description of hearing whales and wolves giv-ing a call-and-response to each other as George slipped silently through the inky black night of the coastal waters.

In the light of day, George had his usual pragmatic assessment of kayaking at night: “I traveled a lot at night. I think recreational kayakers don’t and I don’t un-derstand why. You can make really good progress at night. It can be windy all day and then it calms down at night. It can be a good and interesting way to travel.”

Indeed.

Among the MachinesAfter many years among the trees

and waves, George emerged from the for-est. If he was going to return to the World of Man, he would do it on his own terms. He knew there was something compel-ling about the elegance and symmetry of the baidarka, so George started designing and building them for a living. Unique and elegant, George’s baidarkas quickly became known around the world as a pinnacle of kayak design.

Along with a select group of friends and boat builders, George had spurred a renaissance of the centuries-old design. In 1986, George published Baidarka: the Kayak, a concise and exhaustively researched photo book on the subject. The book was a modest success. More importantly, the work in researching and composing the book sparked the nascent writer in George.

Having educated himself in the academia of Nature, George had amassed knowledge that he could share with, and contrast among, the other thinkers of the natural sciences. After years of exhaus-

tive research, George published Darwin Among the Machines: The Evolution of Global Intelligence, a startling revelation of what it means to be sentient.

The book follows the concept of the machine mind from the Enlightenment, through the inchoate computing ma-chines of the 1950’s to the explosive evolution of the internet and concludes

that intelligence will indeed emerge from our machines – because that is the natural order of things.

From much farther than left field, George had produced a work that earned praise from scientists and science fiction writers alike. He had successfully dis-tilled his world and ours into an almost inescapable logic: that the natural order

doesn’t dissolve just because we think we’ve somehow over-come it.

D a r w i n Among the Machines put George on the map of mod-ern scientific thinkers. It also put him

on the map of book publishers. Over the next several years, George went back to work researching and writing his next book, Project Orion: the True Story of the Atomic Spaceship. This time, George went back to his childhood at Princeton and re-entered his father’s world to describe a plan America had in the 1950’s to build a spaceship powered by thermonuclear explosions.

As abhorrent as the idea may sound, it had plenty of backers - including George’s father Freeman, who remained a central figure in the secret program un-til it eventually fell out of favor for more reasonable approaches. As ever, George’s book was exhaustive in both historical detail and scientific context.

George had become a celebrated thinker in American academic circles. He has given several “Ted Talks” on the popular ted.com lecture website. His lat-est book, Turing’s Cathedral: the Origins of the Digital Universe, is an enormously successful history of the birth of comput-ing. Alternately whimsical and reverent, it details the eccentric nature of comput-ing’s forefathers and how these very clever fellows changed our world.

Despite his success, George continues to hew to the call of his coastal wilderness. Those formative experiences in a forest tree house and skimming over the waves in his baidarka remain the touchstones of his experience on this Earth. Rejoining the modern world and finding success as an author are all well and good, but it’s not the continuation of his adventure; it’s

Aleut hunters near unalaska, 1827, lithograph by Friedrich h. von Kittlitz. photo courtesy lilly library, indiana university

george at Cape Caution, Queen Charlotte Sound, bC., 1973.photo by ron Keller


a way station. “I used to have great

contempt for writers and it’s almost a revenge of fate that I’ve become a writer myself,” says George. “I believe in bal-ance, but I got completely off balance. This last book I published I spent 10 years researching ... but I do feel lucky. Everybody knows how rare it is to support yourself as a writer. So many writers write books but can’t get published, and to have publishers wanting your book? You can’t turn that down.

“But now I’m done. Now I’m firmly trying to get back to doing some real things. I’m looking at getting another boat again. I’ve agreed to write another book but it’s not a research project. It’s more my own stories. I should be able to

sit on a beach and write it with a fountain pen...”

We can only hope he builds a great baidarka, loads up some notepads and fountain pens, paddles off to a remote tree house and shares with us his vision of what constitutes

truth, beauty and the natural order of things.

George Dyson continues to own and operate Dyson, Baidarka & Co. on the waterfront of Bellingham, Washington.

inside a baidarka. photo courtesy of george dyson

Federally insured by NCUAwww.wecu.com

Bring your auto loan to WECU® and ask about our greatrefinance special!

Real Estate & Adventures around Bellingham, WA, U.S.A. ...

NWWayofLife.comNWWayofLife.com

When I walk a trail, wan-der the silty perimeter of

a river, or weave through a snow bound forest, I spend much of the time looking down. I’m not par-ticularly clumsy, nearsighted, or interested in my boots. I am look-ing for animal tracks. The physi-cal acts of observation: tenderly tip-toeing over the imprint of an elk’s passage, kneeling to compare bear prints to my own, or tracing the Braille left by a marmot are as reflexive as dodging a low hanging branch.

So when I took my first walk out-side of Byrd Surface Camp, a remote field site on the Western Antarctic Icesheet, I was repeatedly deceived by wind generated patterns, obscured ski-

doo marks and the faded shape of boot soles. This mistake was more jarring than the other constant evidence: per-petual daylight, incessant wind, cutting cold.

In the language of landscape, each paw-shaped depression is an expression in the discourse between habitat and inhabitant. But on the icesheet there is no habitat and there are no inhabitants, no background and no foreground. If nothing exists without its other, who are we when we are alone? Where are we when we are not just out of place but in no place?

When I accepted the General Assistant (GA) position with the U.S. Antarctic Program, I was in the midst of my usual seasonal park ranger gig in North Cascades National Park. Dense undergrowth, wide rivers, diverse

Story by Abigail Sussman

When Clouds Become Mountains A Season in Antarctica


wildlife—I understand how to move through this world. Why would I, as one forthright friend asked, want to live in a tent with a bunch of strangers in the coldest place on earth? I wasn’t going to make a lot of money, I wasn’t working towards a PhD, and I wasn’t embarking on a mountaineering expe-dition. I was going to shovel snow.

Despite my friend’s skepticism, I filled out lengthy applications, en-dured extensive physical exams and sat through mind-numbing training sessions. In October, I strayed from the usual seasonal progression and went from boreal fall to austral spring and found myself in a surprisingly substan-tial emptiness.

Before going to a new place, one might ask for a suggestion list from a friend, read a Lonely Planet guide, or research itinerary ideas on the internet. There is a general understanding of what to do at a destination: trekking in Nepal, visiting Machu Picchu in Peru, slickrock in Moab. Though I was able to collect advice from friends who had been to Antarctica, there was really no way to prepare myself. I just had to go and know that I would enter another world.

I was not alone in the middle of the icesheet - in fact, I had never be-fore been in a wilderness with so much and such varied company. Byrd sup-ported a rotating cast of soft-handed pilots, ice-coring geologists, a World Beard and Mustache Championship-winning GPS technician, hard-working carpenters and graduate student lack-eys. Camp staff was a hodge-podge: a Public Enemy-loving French trained chef, a sixty-something rancher from Saskatchewan, a sprout-pushing mid-wife, a black, gay man who preferred smoothies for breakfast and was se-cretive about his former job at the

Pentagon. These people become my confidants, my adversaries, my provid-ers. Without natural habitat, commu-nity transformed into ecosystem. In the same way, clouds became mountains, shadows became color, absence became a powerful presence.

When I am climbing a ridge, walk-ing a canyon, or resting on the banks of a wild river, I am surrounded by other lives and histories that give my own an unmistakable context. I feel at home when I can anticipate which blueberry patch will bear first fruit, when the salmon might find their way upstream or how the snow will melt as the sum-

The emptiness is imagination. Like the mind, the flat white contains

nothing and everything.

passengers boarding an lC-130 herculesphoto by Abigail Sussman


photo by Nathan rott


mer progresses. It would be disingenu-ous to say that I, or anyone, can feel at home on the icesheet because intimacy

with this land is impossible. In the absence of animals, plants and topogra-phy, we turn to each other to remind us of who we are.

For much of human history, place defined cul-ture. Climate, ter-rain, vegetation, and wildlife determined diet, type of shelter, clothing, and social

interaction. Phenomenologist David Abram asserts that “we are human only in contact, and conviviality, with what is not human.” He is referring to both the animate world - salmon and bear, cedar and huckleberry, chanterelle and kelp and also the inanimate - rock and wind, rivers and rain, clouds and sun-light. At first, my new home seemed like a simple unwavering void, a per-ception that was rapidly displaced by the understanding that ice and absence are in themselves strong and complex personalities. The emptiness is imagi-nation. Like the mind, the flat white

contains nothing and everything. To take in the icesheet, one must

give up the fullness of the rest of the world - to let everything go and yield to nothingness. It is not easy to let go. Indeed, what is the difference between letting go and giving up? Both are acts of release, both imply loss, both neces-sitate a shift from this to that. Perhaps, giving up suggests a sense of control over a situation, a choice, a decision, a preference. I did not give anything up because I had no say in the matter. I was forced to let go because the ice commanded it.

I went to a placeless place where cardinal directions are meaningless, where my usual tools - compass, map, surrounding terrain - are useless, where perceptions are senseless. Antarctica is a continent of contradiction, an anti-pode, a shadow. Though it is impossible for the ice to support a habitat, the flat white does indeed define her temporary inhabitants. Just as the culture of the Salish Coast is determined by abun-dance, human presence in Antarctica both reflects and is reflected in the paradox of human nature.

Byrd Camp was supplied not only with -60°F sleeping bags, personal cold weather gear, and specialized heating stoves, but also grass-fed New Zealand

Working in Antarctica —a PrimerMost everyone who works for the u.S. Antarctic program (uSAp) is stationed at one of three permanent stations: McMurdo, South pole and palmer. Aside from folks heading to palmer, located on Anvers island near the Antarctic peninsula, all staff and scientists arrive at McMurdo from Christchurch, New Zealand. With the largest population on the continent (summer high of 1100, and a winter community of 150), McMurdo is a close knit community, an international airport and an industrial hub of emerging science.

A cluster of buildings and fuel storage facilities, internet and high-tech science labs, bars and movie nights, one can read the New york times online, check email or make phone calls with no more difficulty than figuring out time zones. there is yoga every tuesday and thursday, music at the coffeehouse, a library, a climb-ing wall, even a network of hiking trails.

if it were not for the combina-tion of creativity, intellectualism, and adventurous-ness inherent in a citizenry made up of dishwash-ers with MFAs, eminent scien-tists and stalwart m o u n t a i n e e r s , Mactown would seem like just an-other ocean-side town where the ocean just happens to be frozen and the ubiquitous “big red” jacket replaces swimwear.

the amount and variety of research being conducted on the continent is staggering. the National Science Foundation and uSAp work with an outside contractor to maintain, sup-port and fund all u.S. based science on “the ice”. From McMurdo, some science and support teams are flown to various field sites, from small camps in the dry Valleys to larger camps on the icesheet which serve as way-stations and bases for research further afield.

For more official information and to check out the live webcams at McMurdo, South pole and palmer, go to www.usap.gov.

McMurdo Station photo by Abigail Sussman

photo by Abigail Sussman


beef, a snow melting sys-tem and a stationary bike. Our camp supported a va-riety of scientific inquires with foundations in climate change - and ev-erything was delivered by an aircraft that averaged three miles per gallon. We slept in unheated tents at -20°F and drank fair-trade organic coffee. A rare ap-pearance of a snow petrel was both a joyous event - an animal! - and a funeral, as this bird blown off course by a storm would likely perish. We weren’t just surviving, we were comfortable. This made it easy to mistake life on the icesheet as a somewhat plausible endeavor. On calm mornings I would kick and glide to the end

A shovel is a girl’s best friend. it took 2-1/2 hours to dig out this storm-buried tent.photo by Abigail Sussman

1307 11th St

Praw

ns on

De

ck

Pr

ose

cco

on Tap

in Bellingham’s Historic Fairhaven

Certified Public Accountants

1314 N. State Street • Bellingham, WA • 360.671.1023 • www.zarembacpa.com

ZAREMBA PAXTON P.S.

ADVENTURESNW.com

The Northwest has a new address!

World-class stories and images. Local knowledge. It’s a winning combination.

Hiking, climbing, running, cycling, paddling, sailing, surfing, skiing, boarding,

‘shoeing: it’s all here.

Compelling stories, photo galleries, outdoor gear reviews, outdoor resource guide, and a new, better-than-ever events calendar.


of the ski-way, a three mile long swath of groomed snow that serves as land-ing strip. This is the furthest I could go from our pop-up tent city and it is here that I feel the pull towards the unend-ing horizon and understand an obvious truth: this place is not for us.

To be in an indifferent landscape demands one’s full attentiveness - un-able to turn my back on what is at hand, required to relinquish the past and future, incapable even of conjuring the world beyond the horizon. It was a liberation, a relief, a respite from the ex-istential tight-rope of what-then-what-will-what-now. For me, being nowhere

was an exercise in the often mentioned but rarely achieved state of being now-here. This is the terrain of our honest selves. I did not belong here in the most fundamental of ways and yet I was at

home in my own self for the first time in a long while.

I am drawn to places that over-whelm the human compulsion to

modify, terrain that does not bend, landscapes that will not abide reshaping because this is the real world - the world that lives whether humans reside within it or not. Knowing that these parts of the planet exist is reassuring because it signals the genuine nature of place, which is never anything but the way the land is framed against the sky. It is what it is and there is no interpretation needed. So it should not come as a sur-prise that in this emptiness I was able to stop questioning my place in the world and just live within it.

I did not give anything up because I had no say in the matter. I was forced to let go because the ice commanded it.

photo by Nathan rott

>>> Go to to read ANW stories & the race|play|experience calendar online. race | play | experience 47

Kupilika Backcountry DishwareAnd now for something completely different...Kupilika backpack & camping cups and cutlery from Finland are like no camping eating utensils that you’ve ever seen.

Made of a composite of 50% wood and 50% plastic, they hearken back to the distant past in design, while offering an environmentally in-novative construction. the cups, plates, bowls and cutlery are all re-cyclable, packaged in recycled materials and utilize reindeer leather as straps. looking like something left over from the last ice age,

these products offer excellent heat endurance, low maintenance and don’t ab-sorb smells. Kupilika products are manufactured in ylamylly, Finland and have just begun to find their way into the u.S.

For more info: http://www.kupilka.fi/en

Cascadia Gear: Essentials for your next Adventure

Sierra Designs Zissou 15 Sleeping Bagit’s been a subject of debate among backpackers in the pacific Northwet for decades: down vs. synthetic sleeping bags. down offers unsur-passed warmth and packability for its weight but frankly, ain’t worth a damn if it gets wet. And some-times, let’s face it, it rains in these parts.

Sierra designs’ answer to this age-old conundrum is dridowntM, a pro-cess by which the down feathers are treated with a molecular-level polymer. the result is down that stays dry longer, lofts better and dries faster when damp. dridowntM is brand new. it was introduced just this summer, so it’s impossible to say how it will hold up over time, but in theory, it promises to offer the best of both worlds - the superior perfor-mance of down without the uh-oh’s caused by a damp bag.

Now understand: this doesn’t mean ‘waterproof’. but according to Sierra designs, it will stay dry seven times as long as untreated down in the presence of moisture. And unlike down bags that utilize a membrane for water repellency, dri downtM promises to ‘breathe’ better, allowing internal moisture to escape.

one of the bags incorporating this new technology is the Zissou 15. Stuffed with 600-fill dridowntM, the Zissou 15 offers three-season comfort, relatively light weight (2 lbs 11 oz) and reasonably small pack size (8” by 16”). here’s another thing it offers: room to roll over. unlike many of the lightweight mummy bags on the market, the Zissou is positively spacious inside to accommodate tossers and turners (you know who you are).

Sierra designs is also an early u.S. adopter of the european eN-13537 standards. these standards, which at long last promise consistency in the temperature ratings of vari-ous manufacturers, list four temperature ratings: upper limit, Comfort, lower limit and extreme (read: freezing!) and take into account the fact that generally speaking, men sleep warmer than women. in theory, the ‘upper limit’ describes the temperature that the average male can sleep without “excessive perspiration”. the ‘Comfort’ designation indicates the temperature that the average woman can sleep comfortably (without being cold). the ‘lower limit’ represents the temperature at which the average male can sleep comfortably and the ‘extreme’ rat-ing is the temperature at which the average woman can sleep (?) without risk of hypothermia. testing is done with a thermal mannequin.

Starting this year, Sierra designs assigns both a ’Comfort’ and ‘lower’ limit to its bags. thus the Zissou 15, while marketed as a 15 degree bag, has a comfort rating of 23 degrees and a lower limit pegged at 11 degrees. For more info: http://www.sierradesigns.com

Sierra Designs Jubilee 65 Woman’s Backpackthe Sierra designs Jubilee 65 is engineered to meet the needs of female hikers in a number of ways. First, it features the company’s Fulcrum SuspensiontM - a system of composite frame sheets that mimic the shoulder blades and pelvis. this suspension system offers superior weight distribution and comfort but

where the Jubilee 65 really excels is in providing access to the contents of the pack and organizational excellence. Numerous side pockets allow for on-the-trail access to your essentials, ice axe, trekking poles, water bottle, etc. And the main compartment affords access to the gear buried deep inside. No more emptying the pack to get at the piece of gear that you need (always at the bottom!).

the pack is acceptably light (3 lbs 9 oz) and will hold 55 pounds of gear, although in reality, that much weight might be pushing it with a pack this size. the “inte-grated” bottle opener is a bit silly, but on the whole,

the Jubilee 65 is a great choice for female backpackers.

For more info: http://www.sierradesigns.com


Race I Play I Experience

>>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience event listings at

SEPTEMBER > > >

Monday-Wednesday, 3-5 SepBOAT Deer Harbor Wooden Boat Rendezvous—Orcas Island. Tue: row race (4pm), barbecue, music. Wed: breakfast, sail race, potluck. deerharborwoodenboats.org

Saturday, 8 SepRUN/WALK Fairhaven Runners Waterfront 15K—8:30am – 10:30am. Whether running or walking along this 9.3 mile course, you get a great opportunity to traverse Bellingham Bay’s beautiful waterfront. Tour the Taylor Street Dock, Boulevard Park, downtown and the marina. All participants will receive a commemorative tech shirt. We have a beautiful, well-staffed course starting in Fairhaven and running out through downtown Bellingham and back on waterside paths. From elite racing to fitness walking this course is awesome. Capped at 1000 participants. Advance registration only. cob.org/services/recreation/races/fairhaven-15k.aspx

BIKE/RUN Festival 542––9:00am – 4:00pm. It’s the 10th Anniversary Festival 542 (RIDE 542, RUN 542 and CROSS 542), and its legendary Mount Baker Hill Climb. Named after Washington State

10th Anniversary

www.festival542.com NorKaRecreation

Ride•Run•Play•Eat

2012 Festival 54210th Anniversary

September 2012

Route SR542, FESTIVAL 542 is an uphill ride and run with dozens of categories and rewards for every rider and runner…from themed tandems with kid trailers all the way up to current pros on feather-light bikes and day-glo spandex. www.norka.us/content/festi-val_542/festival_542.aspSPEC The Mountaineers OutdoorsFEST––The Mountaineers Program Center, 10:00am – 5:00pm. In the pursuit of getting people outdoors,

The Mountaineers will again be bringing the outdoors to the peo-ple with its 3rd Annual OutdoorsFEST presented by Hilleberg The Tentmaker. If you are just getting acquainted with what

the Pacific Northwest has to offer the outdoor adventurer, if you want to find out how to enhance your outdoor experience, or you simply want to start from square one then The Mountaineers OutdoorsFEST is the place to be. www.mountain-eers.org/OutdoorsFESTBIKE Sustainable Connections Farm Tour by Bike––Market Depot, 11:00am – 5:00pm. 20 mile guided ride from Bellingham Farmers’ Market to visit

two local farms. Departs 11 am. maps are available for Self-guided bike tours of 30 and 40 mile loops to more farms. Free * Self-guided * Family-friendly * Bicycle routes * Educational activities & more! sustainableconnections.org/foodfarming/whatcom

-county-farm-tourSPEC Second Annual Bellwether Jazz Festival––Tom Glenn Commons, 1:00pm – 7:00pm. Enjoy free live music on the waterfront, vendors and a Boundary

Bay beer garden! Band Line-Up: 1pm Thomas

Marriott Quartet 2:30pm Blues Union 4pm Crossing Borders 5:30pm Carlos Cascante’s Tumbao. For more information on the bands, visit www.jazzpro-ject.org.

BIKE 2012 RBC GranFondo Whistler—Vancouver, BC, 7am. 604-990-2510, rbcgranfon-dowhistler.com

Sunday, 9 SepBIKE Autumn Rides: Wheels n’ Wisdom––1:00 pm – 3:00 pm. Guided social bike ride to surprising places to learn fun skills like cooking, wine making, and more. http://everybodybike.com/events-rides.html

race | play | experience 49AdventuresNW.com

9 September (cont.) - 23 September

>>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience event listings at AdventuresNW.com

along all of the routes. No matter which route you choose, you’ll be treated to Whatcom County’s finest roads and sights. All routes start and finish at the legendary Boundary Bay Brewery. chuckanutcentury.org

Tuesday, 18 SepBOATING America’s Boating Class––Bellingham Technical College, 6:30pm – 8:00pm.America’s Boating Class (ABC) – presented by Bellingham

Sail and Power Squadron. Learn from the best! Eight weeks of practical, relevant instruction on boating including safety, basic mariner

skills, and navigation of local waters. Opportunities for on the water training. Course completion fulfills requirements for mandatory Washington State Boaters Card. Tuesdays, 9/18-11/06/12 6:30pm-8:30pm, Bellingham Technical College. Register: (360) 752-8350 Reference: MARIN 110 Item #4560 www.boatingisfun.org

Wednesday, 19 SepRUN/WALK Edgewood Park 10K Guided Walk––Edgewood Park, 9:30am – 12:30pm.http://esva.org/events/edgewood-park-10k-guided-walk

Saturday, 22 SepBIKE Reflectorize Your Ride––Depot Market Square, Bellingham, 10:00am – 3:00pm. Reflectorize Your Ride and Ramble at Farmers’ Market: Get free reflective stickers and tape to decorate your shoes, hats, bags, bikes, and baskets. Prepare and be visible for autumn and winter evening walking and cycling. everybodybike.com

Sunday, 23 SepSPEC Muds to Suds Race––Hovander Park, Ferndale,11:00am – 11:15am. 16+ dirty obstacles that com-bine athletic stamina and your child-hood fantasy of playing in the mud. You

will need endur-ance to complete the 3 mile course, humility to wal-low in the mud and a smile to show off at the finish line!

Dressing up is encouraged and prizes will be given for the most creative ideas. Families are encouraged to participate. We will offer several different divisions to allow parents to cheer on their chil-dren and spouses to cheer on their better half. www.MudstoSuds.com

Visit AdventuresNW.com for complete listings of Outdoor

events through 2013

BIKE High Pass Challenge—Packwood. Cycle through the Gifford Pinchot Wilderness Area. cascade.org

TRI Seattle Escape from the Rock. envirosports.com

RUN/WALK Iron Girl 10k, 5k—Seattle, 8am. irongirl.com

RUN Skagit Flats Marathon/Half—Burlington, 8am. skagitrunners.org

Saturday, 15 SepBIKE Bellingham Traverse––Market Depot/Boundary Bay, Bellingham, 12:00pm – 6:00pm. This event includes a 5.5mi run from downtown to Lake Padden, a challenging 6mi mt bike

above the lake, an 18mi rd bike out and around Lake Samish, a 3mi trail run, a 4mi open water paddle, and a .5mi team trek.

Race solo, tandem or on a team, symbolically

following the life cycle of the salmon with “bait” to raise funds for environ-mental groups. Finish festivities at Boundary Bay Brewery & Bistro. bell-inghamtraverse.comBIKE Ride the Roc––Omak Eastside Park. 8:00am – 3:30pm. The 50-milers will enjoy the beautiful countryside and lake views of Conconully. The 100-mil-

ers add the memorable sights of Omak Lake and breath taking views. Entry Fee includes: All pit stop food and beverages;

entrance to the Baked Potato Feed right after

the ride. Proceeds benefit Youth Programs. Ride includes SAG wagon support, pit stops, baked potato feed & no-host celebration event with live music. 8:00am start ; second loop starts at 11:00am www.kiwanisomak.orgBIKE Reflectorize Your Ride––Depot Market Square, 10:00 am – 3:00 pm. Reflectorize Your Ride and Ramble at Farmers’ Market: Get free reflective stickers and tape to decorate your shoes, hats, bags, bikes, and baskets. Prepare and be visible for autumn and winter evening walking and cycling. everybodybike.com

Sunday, 16 SepBIKE Chuckanut Century—Boundary Bay, 10:00am – 5:00pm. Come join us and ride one of the most scenic rides in Washington. With many routes

offered you can pick your distance ranging from 25, 38, 50, 62, 100, or the double metric century of 124 miles. Ride support if needed and food stops with a wide variety of high-energy food and drinks

Ride 25, 38, 50, 62, 100 or 124 beautiful miles where

the Cascade Mountains meet the Salish Sea!

Fully supported

Hearty food stops

Free t-shirt if registered by 9/1

Start & Finish festivities at Boundary Bay Brewery & Bistro

in downtown Bellingham— FREE burger or beverage at finish!

WANT TO DO MORE?Raise additional funds for

Whatcom Hospice Foundation

INFORMATION:

chuckanutcentury.org

2008

Chu

ckan

ut C

entu

ry; p

hoto

© C

J Ber

g Ph

otog

raph

ics

Ride foR

2012ChuCkanut Century

Sunday September 16

ADVENTURES NW —a proud supporter

Additional discount at active.com with code: ANFALL12

Mail-in registration at chuckanutcentury.org

Ride on Whatcom & Skagit counties’ finest cycling roads, including the famous Chuckanut Drive.

Enjoy views of Mount Baker & surrounding ranges while cycling along the shores of Padilla Bay, Bellingham Bay,

Birch Bay & Drayton Harbor.

50 race | play | experience >>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience event listings at>>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience event listings at

event. Sites meet twice per week for ten weeks at Elementary Schools around Whatcom County. www.whatcomymca.org

Tuesday, 25 SepBIKE WWU Red Square Info Fair––11:45 am – 12:45 pm. Guided bicycle tours from campus to popular downtown destinations and insider tips on bicycling routes, skills, and fun.

Saturday, 29 SepBIKE Cascade CX #1: Killer Cross–– Squalicum Creek Park, Bellingham, 10:00am – 2:00pm. Don’t miss season opener of best local race series to blow out the cobwebs! At the

moment, it is the raddest hard cyclocross course in the center of town! Lots of mounds and hills, some of which may be demolished in the future, so get up them while you still have the power! www.cascadecross.com

BIKE Reflectorize Your Ride @ Depot Market Square––10:00 am – 3:00 pm. Reflectorize Your Ride and Ramble at Farmers’ Market: Get free reflective stickers and tape to decorate your shoes, hats, bags, bikes, and baskets. Prepare and be visible for autumn and winter eve-ning walking and cycling. http://everybodybike.com

Sunday, 30 SepRUN Bellingham Bay Marathon, Half Marathon & 5k—Bellingham, 7:30 am. The marathon (Boston qualifier) and half marathon courses are relatively flat, well-supported and along

23 September (cont.) – 30 September

•SHOP & DINE IN HISTORIC BUILDINGS •NW ART & CRAFTS GALLERIES•SEA KAYAK, HIKE, RUN, MOUNTAIN BIKE, WHALE WATCH, SAIL

•EMBARK TO ALASKA , VICTORIA & JUAN ISLANDS •AMTRAK & GREYHOUND•24 DINING CHOICES •HOTELS, B&B & CAMPING

•EVERY BUSINESS LOCALLY OWNED

Take I-5 to exit 250/Old Fairhaven Parkway, or exit 231/Chuckanut Drive to Fairhaven.more info & to request a brochure: www.Fairhaven.com

Sidewalk Sale & Salmon BBQ

Sept. 22nd

BIKE Autumn Rides: Whatcom Creek Salmon––1:00 pm – 3:00 pm. Guided social bike ride to see and celebrate the returning salmon. Enjoy stream-side trails. everybodybike.com/events-rides.html

NAV Oktoberfest Street Scramble—Fremont, 10am. 503-515-9419, streetscramble.com

DU Methow Valley Off-Road Duathlon—Winthrop, 9am. 206-940- 4507, methowduathlon.blogspot.com

CYCLING RUN/WALK Athleta Iron Girl Bloomington Women’s Duathlon––Normandale Lake Park, 7:30am – 11:00am. www.irongirl.com/Events/Bloomington

TRIATHLON City of Portland Triathlon––Cathedral Park, 7:30am – 11:00am. http://www.portlandtri.com/

CYCLING Olympic Bike Adventure––Port Angeles City Pier, 8:00am – 2:00pm. www.olym-picbikeadventure.com/

RUN/WALK Race for a Soldier––YMCA, 8:00am – 2:00pm. www.raceforasoldier.org/

RUN/WALK Champoeg Half Marathon––Champoeg State Park, 9:00am – 12:00pm. www.energyevents.com/champoeghalf

Monday, 24 SepRUN Girls on the Run Fall Season Varied—3:00 pm – 4:15 pm. The Girls on the Run curriculum uses running to inspire and motivate girls, encourage lifelong health and fitness, and build confidence through accomplishment. At each season’s conclusion, the girls complete a 5k running

Life is simple.

counseling our community

Simply... live the life you choose.

Sunset Professional Building3031 Orleans St., Bellingham

360.392.2838nwbehavioral.org

Choose local businesses taking action for a healthy community.

Pick up your Eat Local Month & Farm Tour Guide at the Community Food Co-op, Village Books,

local farmers markets, participating farms, or online at EatLocalFirst.org

SaturdaySeptember 8th10am-5pm

tractor train ride • grassfed cows, pigs &chickens • u-pick veggies • local cheese • rare

fruits & pie • wine tasting • ice cream & MORE!

race I play I experience

>>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience event listings at race | play | experience 51>>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience event listings at

race I play I experience30 September (cont.) – 13 October

AdventuresNW.com

picturesque and expansive Bellingham Bay water-front with country and urban landscapes, mountain vistas and exceptional seascapes. The point-to-point marathon is from Lummi Peninsula to downtown Bellingham (free shuttle to start). The half marathon loop course starts at Bellingham’s Depot Market Square. The fast, friendly 5k is along downtown streets and trails. bellinghambayma-rathon.org

OCTOBER > > >

1-31 OctSPECIAL Savor the San Juans: A Medley of Food, Art & Culture, October 1 – 31—Culinary, Accommodation & Moorage Specials; Cultural Events, Oktoberfest, Farm Parades, Tours, Cooking Classes, Artstock! Please check: www.visitsanjuans.com for a complete listing of events and specials.

Saturday, 6 OctSPECIAL Artstock – A Fall Festival of Art. Gallery events & island studios tour @ Friday Harbor—Weekend unique self-guided artists’ studio tour & Gallery demonstations & receptions, FREE! Please check: www.visitsanjuans.com for a complete listing of events and specials.

RUN/WALK Race for Education—Bellingham, 9am/kids race 8:30am. A fundraising 5k starting and ending at Civic Field. whatcomcounty.ciswa.org

RUN/WALK Run Like a Girl 1/2 Marathon—Bellingham, 9am. runlikeagirlbellingham.com

TR RUN Baker Lake 50k—Baker Lake, 8am. bakerlake50k.com

Saturday-Sunday, 6-7 Oct PADDLE Hobuck Hoedown Surf Paddling Festival—Neah Bay. 206-940-6269, rubycreek-boathouse.com

PADDLE WKC Nooksack Slalom & Downriver + NF Nooksack River Slalom Class III—Glacier. nwwhitewater.org

Sunday, 7 OctBIKE Autumn Rides: Trees n’ Trails––1:00 pm – 3:00 pm. Guided social bike ride to see and learn about significant heritage trees around Bellingham. http://everybodybike.com/events-rides.html

BIKE Skagit Valley Farm Pedal—La Conner, 9am. 360-421-4729, festivaloffamilyfarms.com

Monday, 8 OctRUN Granville Island Turkey Trot 10k Walk, Run, Stroll—Vancouver, BC, 8:30am. turkeytrot.ca

Saturday, 13 OctRUN/WALK Autumn Leaf Walk/Run—Okanogan, 10am. To challenge runners from all over the state, the Autumn Leaf offers a 1mi, 5mi,

or 10k, and a wonderful scenic and community setting, beginning at the

Okanogan Swimming Pool. Fee is just one (but why not give more?) can of food, which will

be given to the local food bank; otherwise it’s free. Lots of prizes,

including for best costume. 509-826-7558, autumnleafrun.com

~ fresh ingredients

~ daily specials

~ no msg added

~ gluten-free choices

~ serving lunch & dinner daily

~ next to Bellingham’s REI

360-734-8088

Enjoy in our inviting atmosphere,

or take your meal home!

52 race | play | experience >>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience event listings at>>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience event listings at

13 October (cont.) - 20 October

SPEC WMBC 2nd Annual Shoot the Trails Awards Video and Photo Contest––Depot Market Square, Bellingham, 7:00pm – 10:00pm. Our 1st Annual Shoot the Trails event on Oct 15,

2011 was a huge success! Around 450 people showed up to show support for Galbraith Mountain. All funds generated at this

event are being set aside specifically for Galbraith Mountain. It was so much fun we will for sure do it again in Oct, 2012. All proceeds go towards trail access and trail building in Whatcom County. www.whimpsmtb.org/BIKE Cascade CX #2: Thriller Cross @ Civic Field—10:00 am – 2:00 pm. Costume themed race. Food vendors. Mud baths, stunt sections, silliness included at no extra charge. http://www.cascadecross.com

Sunday, 14 OctBIKE Black Market Annual Tweed Ride––Maritime Heritage Park, Bellingham, 12:00pm – 3:00pm. Guided group social fashion ride. Dress up in vintage attire, decorate your vintage cruiser and re-live the classic age of ele-gant cycling. Hosted by Black Market Vintage Clothing Store. everybodybike.com/events-rides.htmlMTB DU Klicks

Mountain Bike Duathlon—Bellingham, 11am. 360-778-7000, cob.org/races

YOUTH DU YMCA Youth Duathlon—Bellingham, 1pm. [email protected], cob.org/races

Saturday, 20 OctRUN Lake Padden Trail Half––Bellingham, 9:00am – 12:00pm. Run the Lake Padden Trail Half 13.1 presented by Flora Health. One of the most beautiful

trail half marathons in the northwest featuring plenty of beautiful single track trails situated in the Lake Padden recre-ation area. All runners eligible for great ran-dom prizes & age group awards. Special awards

for top masters and grand masters. The race will be followed up by a fun post race awards dinner with music by the Joe Capoccia String Band in the garden at Boundary Bay. Proceeds to benefit Rebound of Whatcom County. Register to run or volunteer at: www.lakepad-dentrailhalf.comBIKE Cascade CX #3: Woolley Cross––Northern State Rec Area, 10:00am – 2:00pm. Sponsored by Skagit Bicycle Club. Can’t beat a former mental hospital for a race venue! www.cascadecross.com

Blackberry Trails Bed and Breakfast - located on the Canadian border in the beautiful Pacific Northwest. This 36-acre wooded property provides privacy, and peaceful relaxation. Whether looking for a romantic getaway or a cozy overnight with your family, this is the perfect place to accommodate your adventure.

(360) [email protected]

2580 H Street Rd., Blaine, WA 98230

RELAX • REFRESH • RESTORE

>>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience event listings at race | play | experience 53>>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience event listings at AdventuresNW.com

20 October (cont.) - 11 November

851 Coho WayBellingham, WA360.734.3336

www.lfsmarineoutdoor.com

STOREHOURS

WEEKDAYS8am - 5pm

SATURDAY9am - 4pm

Huge Selection of Kayaks and Accessories includingStohlquist, Emotion, Bending BranchesMustang and More!

Locally Owned Local Knowledge Local Expertise Beginners Welcome

214 W Holly Downtown Bham 360 543 5678 www.backcountry essentials.net

10-7 Mon-Sat 12-5 Sundays

&GEAR

BEER

Ski Boot FittingSpecialist

WATER Greenland Week Kayak Festival at Lake Sammamish–– Lake Sammamish State Park, Bellingham, 9:00am – 10:00am. Join the Kayak Academy for a week of traditional Greenland-style kayaking lessons, demonstrations, race and social activities. See website for events and times: kayakacad-emy.com/pages/lessons/courses/greenlandweek.html

SPEC Warren Miller’s Flow State––Throughout Washington, 6:00 pm – 11:00 pm. The 63rd feature film from Warren Miller Entertainment brings audi-ences to a place only recently identified by scientists; a place they now understand skiers and snowboard-ers achieve where, the faster they go physically, the slower things appear to them mentally. This a place of such singular focus and connection with their environment, they can achieve things previously thought impossible. So come with us as we enter … the Flow State. Check theaters for show times! www.skinet.com/warrenmiller Sunday, 21 Oct

Sunday, 21 OctRUN The Other Half—Moab, UT, 8:30am. 435-259-4525, moabhalfmarathon.org

Saturday, 27 OctRUN/WALK Pumpkin Push 5k for Seattle’s Homeless— 10am. 206-548-3266, pumpkinpush.com

RUN Freaky 5k—Federal Way, 9am. 253-835-6932. itallhappenshere.org

RUN Halloween Runs—Seattle, 10am. Multiple events. 206-335-9305, magnusonseries.org

Sunday, 28 OctRUN/WALK Run Scared 5k—Seattle, 9am. Benefits Leukemia & Lymphoma Society. 206-330-5967, runscared5k.com

NOVEMBER >>>Saturday, 3 NovBIKE Cascade CX #4: Cross Border Clash––DeltaTech Industrial Park,10:00am – 2:00pm. Day 1 of international cyclocross showdown between BC and WA. Beer garden! Flyover! Pump track! www.cascadecross.com

Sunday 4 NovBIKE Cascade CX #5: Cross Border Clash––DeltaTech Industrial Park,10:00am – 2:00pm. Day 2 of international cyclocross showdown. Clash Cup will be awarded to BC or WA. www.cascadecross.com

RUN Padden Mudfest 7mi—Bellingham, 10am. gbrc.net

Monday 5 NovWATER Cascade Canoe & Kayak Distance Race––Lake Washington, 10:00am – 12:30pm. http://www.canoe-kayak.com/events/races

Sunday, 11 NovRUN/WALK Bellingham Trail Marathon @ Lake Padden—9:00am – 1:00pm. Bellingham Trail Marathon: 26.2 and 2.6 mile races is a trail marathon connecting two popular trail systems: Lake Padden

Servicing Most European & Japanese Models

360 671 .2420

54 race | play | experience >>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience event listings at

race I play I experience


11 November (cont.) - 8 December

DECEMBER >>>Saturday, 1 DecRUN/WALK Girls on the Run 5K––Downtown, 10:00am – 11:00am. www.whatcomymca.org

Sunday, 2 DecRUN Girls on the Run 5k—Bellingham, 9:30am. A downtown Bellingham fun run for girls and boys, men and women. [email protected], whatcomymca.org

Friday, 7 DecSPEC Superhero Lighted Bike Parade––Depot Market Square, Bellingham, 6:00pm – 8:00pm. Decorate your bike with lights and reflectors, don your superhero cape, and ride through downtown to light up the holiday Art Walk. Treats and refreshments. Departs from Public Market 6 pm. everybody-bike.com/events-rides.html

Saturday, 8 DecRUN Fairhaven Frosty 5k & 10k—Bellingham, 10am. Run on road and trail, 1 or 2 loops from Fairhaven Park. Free kids 1/4 mile. gbrc.net

RUN Toys for Tots Airport 5k/10k—Arlington, 11am. 360-359-

& Chuckanut Mountain! http://www.bellinghamtrailmarathon.com/

TR RUN Carkeek 5k/10k—Seattle, 9:30am. 503-515-9419, nwtrailruns.com

Thursday, 15 NovBIKE Bike Travel Show––The HUB, 6:00pm – 8:00pm. Bicycle Hub and Spoke Presentation and Bicycle Travel Slide Show: Experience the beauty of bicycle tourism in southern Japan. Enjoy cycling stories from visiting experts from Bicycle Alliance of Washington.everybodybike.com/events-rides.html

Saturday, 17 NovRUN Turkey Trot 5k—Bellingham/Barkley Village, 9am. gbrc.net

Thursday, 22 NovRUN La Conner Turkey Trot—La Conner, 7:30am. 360-466-4778, lacon-nerchamber.com

RUN Thanksgiving Day Runs—Seattle, 9am. Multiple events. 206-335-9305, magnusonseries.org

Saturday, 24 NovRUN Seattle Marathon 5K & Seattle Kids Marathon—8:30am/ 10am. 206-729-3660, seattlemarathon.org

BESTCHOICEBESTCHOICESeafood in this category is abundant, well-managed and caught or farmed in environmentally friendly ways.

ALTERNATIVEGOODThese items are an option, but there are concerns with how they are caught or farmed or with the health of their habitat due to other human impacts.

RESPONSIBLYFARMED

SEAFOOD

RESPONSIBLYFARMED

SEAFOODAquaculture practices can be sustainable within

their ecosystem by respecting wild fish populations and their habitats, preventing contamination of

wild populations, avoiding use of polluting holding pens and antibiotics, and taking action on water quality issues.

WILDCAUGHT

WILDCAUGHT

Aquaculture practices can be sustainable within their ecosystem by respecting wild fish populations

and their habitats, preventing contamination of wild populations, avoiding use of polluting holding pens

and antibiotics, and taking action on water quality issues.

great food is for everyone!

Lakeway • Birch Bay Anacortes

The Destinationfor Seafood Lovers

The Markets use Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watchwww.montereybayaquarium.org

to select the finest ocean-friendly seafood.

• 100% sustainable• wild, responsibly farmed• best selection, variety, quality.

More Faster BackwardsRebuilding David B

A memoir of one couple’s uncertain struggle to bring their dreams to life

MoreFasterBackwards.comCoupon Code Paperback

WFLL7LMT

15% Off

eBook ZG75Q

- by Christine Smith

marine & forest-focused programs at Deception Pass & across the PNW

AcademicsAndAdventures.org

Wilderness Skills, Sail ‘n’ Science, Marine Explorer, Digital Photo, Jr. Explorer (age 6-8) & more!

“Save 10% on Kids Summer Programs by 6/15/12”

Adult & Family Adventures Kids Day Camps School Programs Kids Kayak Academy

SAVE 10% on Kids Summer Programs by 6/15/12

Visit AdventuresNW.com for complete listings of Outdoor

events through 2013

>>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience event listings at race | play | experience 55>>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience event listings at AdventuresNW.com

race I play I experience8 December (cont.) - 2 February

0868, arlingtonrunnersclub.org

RUN Deception Pass 50k, 25k —Oak Harbor. rainshadowrunning.com

RUN/WALK Jingle Bell Run for Arthritis 5k—Bellingham, 8am. bellinghamjbrw.kintera.org

Sunday, 9 DecRUN/WALK Holualoa Tucson Marathon––Cody Loop Rd 7:30am – 2:00pm Enjoy beautiful Tucson winter weather with temperatures at the start

averaging in the high 30s and reaching 65-70 degrees Fahrenheit by 11 a.m. This is

primarily a downhill marathon. with some hills around mile 2 and mile 10. Come run your FIRST MARATHON or your FASTEST MARATHON. You’ll drop almost 2,200 feet in elevation as you run on the mostly downhill, point-to-point course along the beautiful Santa Catalina mountain range. (There are some rolling hills and inclines between miles 2-5 and miles 10-13, as well as between miles 24-25).www.tucsonmarathon.com

Sat-Sun, 8-9 DecPADDLE 7th Annual Deception Pass Dash—Deception Pass State Park. 206-940-6269, rubycreekboathouse.com

Saturday, 15 DecRUN Holiday Fun Run—Seattle, 10am. Multiple events. 206-335-9305, magnusonseries.org

JANUARY >>>Saturday, 19 JanSNOW Tubbs Romp to Stomp––Mt. Bachelor, 9:00am – 1:00pm. Join us in 2013 at Mt. Bachelor. The gorgeous snowshoe course, fun atmosphere, and FREE demo snowshoes* from Tubbs

make the Washington Romp great for par-ticipants of all levels. Since its inception in 2003, the Tubbs Romp to Stomp out Breast Cancer Snowshoe Series® has engaged

nearly 23,000 people in the sport of snowshoeing and raised more than 1.8 MILLION DOLLARS for Susan G. Komen for the Cure® and the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation! tubbsromp-tostomp.com

FEBRUARY >>>Saturday, 2 FebSNOW Tubbs Romp to Stomp––Stevens Pass Nordic Center, 9:00am – 1:00pm. Join us in 2013 at the Stevens Pass Nordic Center. The gorgeous

VILLAGE BOOKS

Pick up your copy of

The Extraordinary Story of the Sherpa Climbers on K2’S Deadliest Day

at Sept. 26 at VB

BURIED in the SKYBURIED in the SKY

Author Event!

1200 11th St • Bellingham • 800.392.BOOK • www.villagebooks.com

Weekend GetawaysKayak Mothership ToursPrivate Charters

San Juan Islands... Inside Passage... SE Alaska—enjoy Pacific Northwest waters

aboard the m/v David B

Northwest Navigation Co. Small Ship Cruises

NwNavigation.com877-670-7863 / 360-201-8184


race I play I experience19 January (cont.) - 31 May

Experience Yoga in a New Way

Yoga for Paddlers

Runners

Hikers

Cyclists…and YOU!

Yoga with Susan D’Onofrio

8 Petals Yoga Studio1317 Commercial St. #203 • Bellingham, WA

www.whatcomyoga.com for class info

LEARNGROWTHRIVE

Rookies & Youth Climbing ClassesFor boys & girls ages 3-5 or 6-12.Register now for fall sessions.BELLINGHAM ACTIVITY CENTER

WHATCOM FAMILY YMCA360 733 8630 www.whatcomymca.org

snowshoe course, fun atmosphere, and FREE demo snow-shoes* from Tubbs make the Washington Romp great for par-ticipants of all levels. Since its inception in 2003, the Tubbs Romp to Stomp out

Breast Cancer Snowshoe Series® has engaged nearly 23,000 people in the sport of snowshoeing and raised more than 1.8 MILLION DOLLARS for Susan G. Komen for the Cure® and the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation! tubbsromptostomp.com

MAY >>>Friday, 31 MayWild Canyon Games––6:00pm – 4:00pm. Wild Canyon Games is a

unique competitive team challenge in the high desert of central Oregon for athletes from every walk of life. It’s broken down into 4 phases: an Olympic length triathlon; Geocaching; Challenge Events; and a 7-person Creak to Peak relay race. Each team is comprised of 7 members and the team that earns the most points by the end of the weekend will be crowned the 2013 WCG Champions!! Team Price: $2100 (7 Person Teams) $300 per Individual includes: $150 Entry Fee and $150 Food and Lodging DON’T MISS OUT! The 2012 Games sold out by March 1, 2012! So REGISTER NOW! wildcan-yongames.org

Visit AdventuresNW.com for complete listings of Outdoor events through 2013

1515 12th Street • Bellingham • 360-671-1505 • AlpineInstitute.com

BOLIV

IA • N

EPAL • CH

ILE • SWITZ • FRA

NCE

ALASKA • CASCADES • DESERT ROCK • ROCKIES • SIERRA • ARGENTINA

ECU

AD

OR

• CH

INA

• CA

NA

DA

• PA

TAG

ON

IA

Fall Rock ClimbingAll levels – from learning the basics to learning to lead.

Erie • Leavenworth • Squamish Red Rock • Joshua Tree • Moab

AmericanAlpine InstituteLTD

Advertiser IndexAcademic Adventures ...............................54Adventures NW Magazine .................25, 45American Alpine Institute ..........................56Backcountry Essentials .............................53Bellingham Athletic Club .............................4Bellingham Bay Marathon ........................52Blackberry Trails B & B .............................52Bellingham Frameworks ............................13Bellwether Jazz Festival ..............................9Boundary Bay B&B ..................................27Brandon Nelson-RE/MAX .........................41Busara Thai Cuisine ..................................51Colophon Café & Deli ..............................13Community Food Coop .............................17D’Anna’s Cafe Italiano .............................29Danne Neill-The Muljat Group ..................19Dawn Durand--Windermere Real Estate .....35Fairhaven Bike & Ski ................................20Fairhaven Pizza .......................................45Fairhaven Runners & Walkers ...................28Fanatik Bike Co. .......................................21Flyers Restaurant & Brewery .....................35Gato Verde Adventure Sailing ..................21Gone Diving ............................................24Harmony Motorworks ..............................53Leap Frog Water Taxi .................................9LFS Marine & Outdoor .............................53Lithtex NW ..............................................24McNett....................................................16MBBC/Chuckanut Century ........................49Mount Baker Foothills Chamber ................41Mount Bakery ............................................6

Mount Baker Ski Area ..............................48Moxiehat.com..........................................54Nooksack River Casino ............................60North Cascades Institute ...........................21Northwest Behaivoral ...............................50Northwest Navigation ........................54, 55NW Traverse, Olympia/Bellingham ..........51Old Fairhaven Association ........................50Peoples Bank ...........................................59Performance Chiropractic Bellingham ........25Pickford Film Center ...................................7 Pickup Dogs ............................................52Placid Pet ................................................55Quicksilver Photo Lab ...............................17ReStore ...................................................55Ride, Run 542 Mt. Baker Hill Climb ...........48Romp To Stomp .......................................57Sally Farrell-Coldwell Banker ....................25San Juan Sailing ......................................29The Sportsman Chalet ................................3Sustainable Connections ...........................50The Chrysalis Inn & Spa ...........................55The Markets.............................................54Village Books ..........................................55Warren Miller ............................................3Wells Fargo Advisors-Josh Barrett .............20Whatcom Educational Credit Union ...........41Whatcom Events - Muds to Suds ..................2Whatcom Family YMCA ..........................56Whidbey Island Bank .................................5Wood Mizer ............................................17Yoga Northwest .......................................13Yoga with Susan D’Onofrio ......................56Zaremba Paxton P.S. ...............................45


R E G I O N A L S P O N S O R ST O B E N E F I T

P R E S E N T E D B Y

DEMOSNOWSHOES

FREEWHILE SUPPLIES LAST

2013 RompAd_AdvNW_full 080112.2.indd 1 8/1/12 12:15 PM

race | play | experience 57AdventuresNW.com>>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience event listings at


N Adventurethe ext

photo by BuFF BLACK

Nothing Above my Boots but the Evening

deep in the wilderness of North Cascades National park near Whatcom pass, 22 miles from road’s end, i left camp after dinner and summited a ridge directly north of Mt Challenger. reclining back, my boots naturally extended over a cliff edge into the yawning expanse of little beaver Valley. exhilarated yet relaxed, the drop-away panorama cast it’s spell on me through the golden hour of that transcendent September evening.

Apply online at www.peoplesbank-wa.com/homeloans

Visit one of our 10 Whatcom County offices or call (360) 676-5880 today. Our experienced, local loan officers are ready to help.

Amy BakerReal Estate

Loan OfficerNMLS# 539977

Tiffany Bergsma-EvansReal Estate


Gena StremlerAVP | Senior Real Estate


Carmen DensonAVP | Senior Real Estate


Jo DallasVP | Real Estate Loan Manager

NMLS# 422509

Judy HaugnessSenior Real Estate


Sidney StonecypherAVP | Senior Real Estate


Shelly BeldAVP | Senior Real Estate


Kelly GustafsonReal Estate


Steve GraySenior Real Estate


Is there a New Home in Your Future?Our Home Loan Specialists have just one thing to say,

“Let’s make it work.”

PEO NW Adventures_fullpage.indd 1 8/9/12 4:01 PM

Signature Seafood BuffetServed from 4pm to 9pm Friday nights. $17.95 with

Winners Club Card, $22.95 without.

$4.99 Value BuffetOur delicious and ever-changing value buffet, now on Thursdays 11am - 9pm. Only $4.99 for Winners Club Members!

Management reserves all rights.

877.935.9300 5048 MOUNT BAKER HWY, DEMING WA

FIND US ONLINE WWW.NOOKSACKCASINO.COM TWITTER.COM/NOOKSACKRCASINO FACEBOOK.COM/NOOKSACKRCASINO

Saturday BBQ Buffet4pm - 9pm $11.95 A Feast prepared each Saturday. All-you-can-eat perfectly

seasoned BBQ favorites at one low price!

Sunday Brunch Buffet

Create Your Own Fresh Dining Experience

Every Monday & Tuesday 11am – 2pm & 5pm – 9pm!

Just $11.95 per person!

Served from 10am to 2pm $16.95 With Champagne

Adventures NW Magazine Fall 2012

Documents

Transcript of Adventures NW Magazine Fall 2012