Eugene B. Adkins Native American Jewelry Collection

Oklahoma collector Eugene Brady Adkins (b.1920, d.2006) was an acquisitive man with an intense interest in the American Southwest. He amassed an art collection totaling almost 3,200 pieces, most of which were made by Native artists between the 1950s and 1990s. This diverse assemblage of baskets, bead-work, paintings and pottery is dominated by nearly 1,200 pieces of jewelry and silverwork that compose the largest portion of the collection. Adkins purchased these pieces from artists at annual juried competitions, such as the Heard Museum Guild Indian Fair and Market in Phoenix, Arizona and the Gallup Inter-Tribal Indian Ceremonial and Santa Fe Southwestern Associa-tion for Indian Arts Indian Market in New Mexico, as well as from galler-ies and auctions throughout the United States. The collection includes work done in traditional tribally specific styles as well as contemporary pieces.

Christina E. Burke

Courtesy of American Indian Art Magazine,

Vol. 34, No. 4, Autumn 2009.

http://www.aiamagazine.com

eugene b . adkins collect ion fred jones jr . museum of art

Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art University of Oklahoma555 Elm AvenueNorman, Oklahoma 73019

www.ou.edu/fjjma

Native AmericanJewelry

Collection

The Fred Jones Jr. Museum of Art at the University of Oklahoma and the Philbrook Museum of Art in Tulsa

share joint stewardship of the Eugene B. Adkins Collection.

20

25

21

67880-FJJMA Jewelry-AdkinsJewelryGuide-FinalCRC.indd 1 10/12/11 8:06 AM

Navajo – Dine (The People)The 2000 census reported a Navajo population of 290,000 confirming this as one of the largest tribes in the

United States. Their lands are located in three different states including New Mexico, Arizona and Utah.

The Navajo and the Apache are both thought to have migrated from Canada, approximately 1000 to 1300

C.E., although this is contested by some tribal people who defer to the early origin stories. In this region of

the greater Southwest the Navajo learned to farm and, after the Spanish arrived, pursued other economic

means developing herds of sheep and goats. In 1846 the United States took possession of the Southwestern

territories from Mexico, at which time the Navajo were weaving baskets and blankets in distinctive patterns.

One Navajo, Atsidi Sani, learned the art of working silver from Mexicans who lived close to their reservation.

It was only after Sani returned from imprisonment at Fort Sumner in 1867 that he commenced to make silver

jewelry, passing it on to his four sons. Others quickly learned and the Navajo nation is now known for creating

exquisite silver and turquoise jewelry.

All the work listed below are by Navajo artists:

Santo Domingo – KewaLocated halfway between Santa Fe and Albuquerque, Santo Domingo is one of the most conservative Pueblos,

leading to a strong continuance of traditional customs and language. Due to the long and violent conflict with

the Spanish many Southwestern tribes adopted a certain level of secrecy concerning their rituals and art. Santo

Domingo’s small population, fewer than 3,000, also has added to its insular nature. The Pueblo changed its

name to Kewa Pueblo in 2010 in order to reflect an indigenous vision of their native land.

Santo Domingo Pueblo’s jewelry legacy is longer than any other Southwest tribe, as they did not learn

their craft at Indian boarding schools or from Spanish metalworkers. During the late 19th and early 20th

centuries almost every Santo Domingo family made jewelry for trade. Many of the same ancient designs and

materials are used in their contemporary work. Rolled bead, or heishi, necklaces are a large portion of Santo

Domingo jewelry (nos. 9 and 14). Many beads are turquoise or shell, but imported coral is popular as well.

Also common to Santo Domingo jewelry are Corn Dance shells inlaid with turquoise, jet and other colored

stones (nos. 15 and 19).

All the work listed below are by Santo Domingo artists:

Hopi – Hopituh Shi-nu-muThe Hopi live in northeast Arizona surrounded by the lands of the Navajo. The village of Oraibi is one of the

oldest continuously inhabited places in the Americas, having had residents since 1100 C.E. Early on, the Hopi

developed a very advanced culture and exceeded at agriculture, coal mining and art, including pottery and mural

painting. They also are known for their katsina carvings: figures representing the Hopi spirit world. Today the

Hopi population is just under 7,000. They primarily live in small villages atop and around three mesas.

Like other tribes in the Southwest, the Hopi did not work in metal before the arrival of the Spanish.

In the late 19th century, a Hopi named Yellow Light learned to work silver from the Zuni. Yellow Light’s

influence spread between the mesas and began to be passed down from father to son. Hopi silverwork greatly

increased after World War II, when classes were organized for returning veterans, and the distinctive Hopi

style of silver overlay was invented. Like their neighbors, the Hopi also have flourished at turquoise mosaic

and lapidary work.

All the work listed below are by Hopi artists:

Zuni – A:shiwiThe Zuni Pueblo is located in western New Mexico along the Arizona border. Artifacts of several ancient

Pueblo peoples exist in this area, and their influence can be seen in contemporary work of the Zuni. Ancestors of

the modern Zuni began occupying this area of the Southwestern United States between 1200 and 1680 C.E.

Current Zuni population estimates are approximately 8,000 and more than 60% of the population works in art

production. While jewelry making began as a craft for men, women are now active designers; often husband and

wife will collaborate.

The Zuni learned metalworking and stone cutting at the turn of the 20th century from the Navajo. Since

then, they have developed their own jewelry style. While the Zuni excel at metalwork, the use of stone and shell

lapidary is primary in their work, using both native and imported materials.

Fetishes (protective spiritual objects) are principle in Zuni art. According to Zuni creation stories, the gods

found the world’s abundance of animals too dangerous for the newly-created humans. They struck many of the

animals with lightning, shrinking the beasts to small stones. The Zuni believe that rocks that resemble animals

still contain the spirit and power of these ancient beings. Frog fetishes (nos. 6 and 7) are very common and are

the major rain fetish. Another popular Zuni symbol is the Rainbow Man. A sacred being who could bridge

between worlds, Rainbow Man was originally found on the shields of Zuni warriors.

All the work listed below are by Zuni artists:

1 Unknown Multi-strand Necklace with Silver Cones, n.d. Silver and coral

2 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and shell

3 Sedlio F. Lovato (b. 1929) Buckle, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and coral

4 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver and spiny oyster shell

5 Mary C. Lovato (b. 1936) Heishi and Disc Necklace, n.d. Turquoise, brass, spiny oyster shell, and onyx

6 Harold Lovato (1954-1996) Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise

7 Harold Lovato (1954-1996) Silver Overlay Pendant, n.d. Silver

8 Harold Lovato (1954-1996) Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise

1 Roger Tsabetsaye Bracelet, n.d. Silver, spiny oyster shell, turquoise, onyx, and mother of pearl

2 Unknown Ring, n.d. Silver and turquoise

3 Unknown Cuff links, n.d. Silver, inlaid turquoise, coral, onyx, and mother of pearl

4 Unknown Watchband, n.d. Silver and inlay of shells and stone

5 Unknown Buffalo Dancer Pendant, n.d. Silver, oyster shell, turquoise, onyx, and stone

6 Unknown Frog Fetish, n.d. Serpentine and spiny oyster shell

7 Unknown Frog Fetish, n.d. Spiny oyster shell and turquoise

8 Leekya Deyuse (1889-1966) Ring, n.d. Silver and turquoise

9 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver and coral

10 Frank Vacit (1915-1999) Ring, n.d. Silver, turquoise, coral, onyx, and shell

11 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver, coral, jade, turquoise, onyx, and shell

9 Unknown Necklace, n.d. Turquoise and shell 10 Tony Aguilar Necklace, n.d. Brass and turquoise

11 Tony Aguilar Bead Necklace, n.d. Brass, turquoise, and beads

12 Tony Aguilar Earrings, n.d. Brass and turquoise

13 Tony Aguilar Necklace, n.d. Brass and turquoise

14 Charles Lovato (1937-1987) Multi-strand Heishi Necklace, n.d. Silver and turquoise

15 Unknown Medallion, n.d. Silver, spiny oyster shell, turquoise, mother of pearl, and onyx

16 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and shell

7 Delbridge Honanie (b. 1946) Earrings, n.d. Wood, silver, turquoise, and shell

8 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Bracelet, n.d. Silver, turquoise, coral, and mother of pearl

9 Victor Coochwytewa (b. 1922) Pendant, n.d. Silver and turquoise

10 Charles Loloma (1921-1991) Mosaic Inlaid Bracelet, c. 1970s Leather, silver, turquoise, lapis lazuli, coral, and ironwood

11 Charles Loloma (1921-1991) Ring, c. 1970s Silver, coral, ironwood, turquoise, and ivory

12 Charles Loloma (1921-1991) Ring, n.d. Silver and turquoise

13 Victor Coochwytewa (b. 1922) Bow Guard, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and leather

28 Bessie Padilla Pendant on Chain, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and coral

29 Richard Henry Yazzie Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise

30 H. Morgan Bracelet, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and coral

31 Joy Hanley Bracelet, n.d. Gold tone metal and turquoise

32 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver and Morenci turquoise

21 Unknown Necklace, n.d. Silver

22 Lawrence Saufkie (b. 1935) Overlay Bracelet, n.d. Silver

23 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Overlay Bracelet, n.d. Silver

24 Unknown Bird Overlay Necklace, n.d. Silver

25 Eveli Sabatie Ring, n.d. Silver, oyster, shell, ironwood, and coral

30 Leekya Deyuse (1889-1966) Bird Fetish Necklace, n.d. Stone beads, spiny oyster, and abalone shell

31 Unknown Mosaic Parrot Pin, n.d. Silver, spiny oyster shell, turquoise, and lapis lazuli

32 Unknown Roadrunner, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and onyx

33 Unknown Waterbird Brooch, n.d. Silver, mother of pearl, turquoise, and coral

34 Unknown Inlay Pin, n.d. Silver, turquoise, jet, coral, and mother of pearl

35 Unknown Four Directions Pin, n.d. Silver, coral, turquoise, jet, and mother of pearl

36 Teddy Weahkee (1900-1965) Inlaid Shell with Silver Edging, 1930 Silver, pink shell, turquoise, jet, and white shell

37 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver and turquoise

38 Unknown Dragonfly Brooch, n.d. Silver, turquoise, spiny oyster shell, and jet

39 Elliot Qualo Belt-Inlay Tortoise Shell with Devil, c. 1967 Leather, silver, turquoise, tortoise shell, coral, and abalone shell

14 Charles Loloma (1921-1991) Snake Pin, c. 1974 Silver, turquoise, coral, and lapis lazuli see image below

15 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise

16 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Medallion with Cord, n.d. Silver, wood, turquoise, and velvet cord

17 Preston Monongye (1927-1987 ) Bracelet, n.d. Silver, turquoise, onyx, coral, and mother of pearl

18 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Bracelet, n.d. Silver, turquoise, mother of pearl, onyx, and coral

19 Unknown Man in the Maize Pendant, n.d. Silver 20 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Necklace, n.d. Necklace: silver, coral, onyx, turquoise, and shell; Pendant: silver, turquoise, onyx, coral, and mother of pearl

12 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver, coral, tortoise shell, turquoise, and mother of pearl

13 Dennis Edaakie (1931-2008) Bolo, n.d. Silver, leather, onyx, coral, and abalone shell 14 Leekya Deyuse (1889-1966) Silver and Turquoise Bolo Tie (Bird), 1938 Silver and turquoise

15 Unknown Bolo, n.d. Silver, leather, turquoise, onyx, coral, shell, mother of pearl, and abalone shell

16 Unknown Rainbow Man Brooch, n.d. Silver, spiny oyster shell, turquoise, jet, coral, and mother of pearl

17 Unknown Rainbow Man Ring, n.d. Silver, lapis lazuli, turquoise, oyster shell, and coral

18 Unknown Necklace with Katsina Mask, n.d. Silver, turquoise, oyster shell, and stone

19 Dennis Edaakie (1931-2008) Hummingbird Medallion, n.d. Silver, jade, tortoise shell, mother of pearl, coral, and abalone shell

20 Dennis (1931-2008) & Nancy Edaakie (b. 1937) Medallion, n.d. Silver, tortoise shell, and mother of pearl

17 Charles Lovato (1937-1987) Multi-strand Heishi Necklace, n.d. Silver and shell beads

18 Unknown Inlaid Shell Pendant, n.d. Bronze, onyx, oyster shell, and turquoise

19 Unknown Inlaid Shell Medallion, n.d. Spiny oyster shell, onyx, turquoise, and white stone 20 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Spiny oyster shell and string see image below

21 Joe Tortalita Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise

1 Jerry Roan (1919-1977) Watch Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise

2 Kenneth Begay (1913-1977) Necklace, n.d. Silver and turquoise

3 Unknown Squash Blossom Necklace, n.d. Silver

4 Michael L. Slim Bracelet, n.d. Silver and lapis lazuli

5 Johnny Mike Begay (d. 1976) Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise

6 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver, coral, and turquoise

7 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise

8 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise

9 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise

10 Johnny Mike Begay (d. 1976) Ring, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and coral

11 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver and turquoise

12 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise

13 Unknown Insect Brooch, n.d. Silver and turquoise see image right

14 Unknown Squash Blossom Necklace, n.d. Silver and turquoise

1 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Necklace with Multi-stone Bear Paw Pendant, n.d. Silver, mother of pearl, turquoise, onyx, and coral

2 Preston Monongye (1927-1987 ) Bracelet, n.d. Silver, turquoise, onyx, and mother of pearl

3 Michael Kabotie (Lomawywesa) (1942-2009) Buckle, n.d. Silver and turquoise

4 Preston Monongye (1927-1987) Bracelet, n.d. Silver, turquoise, onyx, mother of pearl, coral, and green stone

5 Charles Loloma (1921-1991) Necklace, c. 1970s Silver, coral, ironwood, turquoise, and ivory

6 Charles Loloma (1921-1991) Buckle, c. 1970s Silver, lapis lazuli, ironwood, coral, turquoise, wood, and stone

21 Unknown Channel Inlay Pin of Rainbow Man, n.d. Silver, turquoise, coral, jet, abalone shell, mother of pearl, and tortoise shell see image on left overleaf

22 Frances Leekya (1928-2003) Buckle, n.d. Silver, tortoise shell, turquoise, coral, onyx, and mother of pearl

23 Unknown Sunface Brooch, n.d. Silver, turquoise, melon shell, coral, jet, and sugilite

24 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver, onyx, turquoise, and mother of pearl

25 Dennis (1931-2008) & Nancy Edaakie (b. 1937) Medallion, n.d. Silver with inlaid coral, turquoise, onyx, mother of pearl, abalone, and tortoise shell see image on right overleaf

26 Unknown Four Directions Pin, n.d. Silver, mother of pearl, onyx, turquoise, and spiny oyster shell

27 Unknown Inlay Pin, n.d. Silver, coral, turquoise, jet, and mother of pearl

28 Unknown Watchband, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and spiny oyster shell

29 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver, turquoise, and shell

13

2014

15 Kenneth Begay (1913-1977) Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise

16 Unknown Squash Blossom Necklace, n.d. Silver and turquoise

17 Edison Sandy Smith Ring, n.d. Silver and turquoise

18 Mary Marie Lincoln Ring, n.d. Silver and turquoise

19 Unknown Ring, n.d. Silver and turquoise

20 Yellowhorse Belt Buckle, n.d. Silver, turquoise, serpentine malachite, coral, sugilite, and lapis lazuli see image on cover

21 Kenneth Begay (1913-1977) Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise

22 Kenneth Begay (1913-1977) Bracelet, n.d. Silver, turquoise, coral, and onyx

23 Unknown Bracelet, n.d. Silver and turquoise

24 H. Morgan Squash Blossom Necklace, n.d. Silver, cabochons of turquoise, and shell

25 Henry Clark Buckle, n.d. Silver and turquoise

26 Unknown Earrings, n.d. Silver

27 Clarence Lee (b. 1952) Buckle, n.d. Silver, turquoise, onyx, coral, and mother of pearl

67880-FJJMA Jewelry-AdkinsJewelryGuide-FinalCRC.indd 2 10/12/11 8:06 AM