Adirondack Chair Project

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  • 7/31/2019 Adirondack Chair Project


    Adirondack chair Project

    The chair we are making here is constructed from 150x25 and 100x25 rough-sawn treated pine, all

    except the chair arms which are 150x50 dressed or smooth treated pine (finished size 145x45).

    Materials List

    Part No. Description Size No. req'd

    A Chair frame 150x25x1000 2

    B Back spacer 100x25x570 1

    C Leg 150x25x575 2

    D Lower back frame 100x25x620 1

    E Back slats 150x25x1000 4

    F Arm brace 100x25x180 2

    G Seat slats 35x25x620 13

    H Arm 145x45x800 2

    Upper back frame 150x25x770 1

    Front spacer 100x25x620 1

    You will also need an exterior type glue, exterior 50mm long screws and 4 10x60 Galvanized coach bolts and washers

    Instructions and plans

    Click on any of the small plan pictures (thumbnails) on the right of the screen and a larger version will

    appear in a popup window. Use these plans for reference.

    Step 1.

    Cut the two chair frames (a) to the required shape and dimensions as shown in fig.1

    Step 2.


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    Cut the two legs (c) 150x25x575

    Step 3.

    Cut the back spacer (b) 100x25x570

    Step 4.

    Cut the front spacer (j) 100x25x620

    Step 5.Make 13 seat slats (g) 35x25x620. These will have to be ripped (cut) from 150x25 using a power saw or

    bench saw.

    Step 6.

    Cut lower back frame (d) to the shape and dimensions as shown in fig.2

    Step 7.

    Cut upper back frame (i) to the shape and dimensions as shown in fig.3

    Step 8.

    Cut four back slats (e) to the shapes and dimensions as shown in fig.4 The top shape (rounding) can bechanged to suit your own imagination or artistic flair.

    Step 9.

    Cut the two arms (h) to the shape and dimensions as shown in fig.5

    Step 10.

    Cut the two arm braces (f) to the shape and dimensions as shown in fig.5

    Step 11.

    Assemble chair using view plans for reference. Use exterior type glue and 50mm exterior screws. Use

    10mm x 60mm galvanized coach bolts with washers to fix the legs (c) to the chair-frames (a).


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  • 7/31/2019 Adirondack Chair Project



  • 7/31/2019 Adirondack Chair Project


    Cape Cod Chair Project


    This updated version (take 4) of our previous plans highlights the value of user feedback and

    contributions. Many of the changes and improvements implemented in this version are as a direct result

    of user input.

    One of the features of this version is the three options given on how to shape the individual pieces, and

    one of these options was contributed by a user.

    This style of chair is pretty much universal, and the chair goes by various names depending on the

    region. 'Adirondack' chair, 'Cape Cod' chair, and the 'Muskoka' chair appear to be most common, but

    there are more.


    Our chair is bigger than most similar designs - more substantial and a bit more laidback (by that we

    mean the angle of the back recline). Furniture these days tends to be a bit more flimsy than that of

    yesteryear. This chair leans more towards the 'old' rather than the 'new'.

    It's a chair you can sit comfortably in, kick back and relax.


    The dimensions given in this project are in both imperial (inches) and metric (mm).

    Throughout the script, the imperial measurements are given first, followed by the metric measurements

    in brackets ( ).

    For example: 2" x 4" (100mm x 50mm).

    Note that most countries that use the imperial system generally call the smaller numeral first, for

    example: 2" x 4" (2 inches by 4 inches). Most countries that use the metric system generally call the

    bigger numeral first, for example: 100mm x 50mm (100 millimetres by 50 millimetres).

    For rounding-off purposes, the imperial sizes in this project are not an exact match to the corresponding

    metric sizes.

    In fact, a structure built using the imperial measurements (inches) will be approximately 1.6% larger than


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    the same structure using the metric (mm) measurements - not really worth worrying about.

    The imperial measurements are more suited to North America. The metric measurements are more suited

    to Australasia and other countries.

    The size (width and thickness) of the wood used in this project is the 'actual' (true) size.

    That is, the size of the wood after it has been dressed (surfaced, planed and/or seasoned). For example: 1

    1/2" x 5 1/2" is ex 2" x 6", and the metric equivalent 140mm x 45mm is ex 150mm x 50mm.


    All the wood used for this project is 3/4" (19mm) thick, with the exception of the arms which are 1 1/2"

    (45mm) thick. That is to give a bit of meat to the arms and something substantial to screw the upper back

    support to.

    What you will need

    For the seat sides, legs, back slats, upper back support, and the seat slats you will need...

    38ft (11.5m) of 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm) wood, allowing for a little bit of wastage.

    For the front and rear spacers, lower back support, and arm braces you will need...

    8ft (2.4m) of 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm) wood, allowing for a little bit of wastage.

    For the arms you will need...

    64" (1600mm) of 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 45mm) wood.

    Note: When cutting, cut the longer pieces first to minimize wastage.

    You will also need...

    - Around 90 exterior-type 1 1/2" (38mm) long screws.

    - Four 3/8" x 2" (10mm x 50mm) galvanized carriage bolts and washers.

    - Exterior-type glue

    The cutting list


    a] seat sides 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm) 39" (975mm) 2

    b] rear spacer 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm) 23 1/4" (580mm) 1

    c] legs 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm) 22 3/4" (570mm) 2

    d] lower back support 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm) 24 3/4" (620mm) 1

    e] back slats 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm) 38" (950mm) 4

    f] arm braces 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm) 7" (175mm) 2

    g] seat slats 3/4" x 1 3/8" (35mm x 20mm) 24 3/4" (620mm) 16


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    Rip (cut lengthways) from 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm) stock

    h] arms 1 1/2" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 45mm) 32" (800mm) 2

    i] upper back support 3/4" x 5 1/2" (140mm x 20mm) 30 3/4" (770mm) 1

    j] front spacer 3/4" x 3 1/2" (90mm x 20mm) 24 3/4" (620mm) 1


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  • 7/31/2019 Adirondack Chair Project


    864mm x 1118mm.


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  • 7/31/2019 Adirondack Chair Project



  • 7/31/2019 Adirondack Chair Project


    Dimensions:For the Kid Sized Chair, overall dimensions are shown above.

    Materials and Tools

    Shopping List:

    1 14, 8 Length

    2 12, 8 Length

    2 13, 8 Length

    Wood GlueWood Filler

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    1 1/4 Screws

    2 Screws

    wood glue

    wood filler

    120 grit sandpaper


    wood conditioner


    paint brushTools:

    measuring tape



    safety glasses

    hearing protection

    circular saw



    Cut List

    Cut List:

    2 14 @ 25 1/2 (Stringers)

    1 14 @ 15 (Front Apron)

    5 12 @ 15 (Seat Slat, Main)

    1 13 @ 15 (Seat Slat, Front)

    2 13 @ 13 (Front Legs)

    2 12 @ 14 1/2 (Arm Supports)

    2 13 @ 14 1/2 (Arm Rests)5 13 @ 20 3/4 (Back Slats)

    1 12 @ 13 1/2 (Back Trim)

    1 14 @ 13 1/2 (Back Apron)

    1 12 @ 16 1/2 (Back Support)

    General Instructions

    Work on a clean levels surface. Use good straight boards. One outdoor projects such as this one, its a good idea to paint

    your boards first (or invest in a tiny paint brush to get in between the cracks) so sand and give your boards a nice paint

    ob first. Remember, you can click diagrams for larger views. Predrill and countersink all of your screws. I would use ascrew pattern like done here so that your screws look nice and even (and you dont have to finish the chair again after

    its assembled) And be safe and have fun!

    Step 1


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    BENCH MODIFICATIONSBy simply doubling the number of back slats and increasing the seat width, you can get a bench. On the adult version,

    you can also create a bench, but you should add a couple of supports that run parallel to the stringers. The kids version

    wont need these supports.

    Step 2

    Mark the front of your stringers as shown in the diagram.

    Step 3

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    Mark the back of your stringers as shown here. Cut the stringers. Once you get a stringer that you are happy with, use it

    as a pattern for the rest of your stringers.

    Step 4