Accretional (Depositional) Coastal Features Netarts Spit, Oregon Spits Tied to the coast at one end...
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Transcript of Accretional (Depositional) Coastal Features Netarts Spit, Oregon Spits Tied to the coast at one end...
Accretional (Depositional) Coastal Features
Netarts Spit, Oregon
Spits
Tied to the coast at one end
Fundamental in smoothing an irregular coastline
Often exhibit a “recurved” hook at the downdrift end
Examples of Spit Growth
Older hooks reflect paleo- spit ends
Geomorphic history of Fire Island, NY - from aerial photography - growth in direction of L.S.T.
Spit growth can deflect the course of a river
Google Earth Exercise - Go Spit Hunting
Tombolos Occur where spit growth extends to an offshore island
Island often influences wave field - refraction
Italian term, where they are numerous and well-developed
see Figure 2.16 in Komar
Cuspate Forelands / Capes
World class example: Outer Banks, NC
Mechanism of formation is debated:
1. Form at points of LST convergence from 2 directions?
2. May have a geologic control?
Barrier Islands
Occur along 13 % of the world’s shorlines
Prevalent in areas of small tidal range = 1-2 meters
Blackboard Example: barrier island migration
set up slope of substrate, rate of sea level rise, retreat rate of barrier island
washover mechanics
Washover of Barrier Islands
Regressive vs. Transgressive Sequences
Rooted in Walther’s Law
Regressive Sequence - Landward sediments are deposited on top of seaward seds, reflect a seaward shift of shoreline.
Transgressive Sequence - Seaward sediments are deposited on top of landward seds, reflect a landward shift of shoreline.
Not necessarily diagnostic of SL rise or fall - think about sediment supply.
Theories of Barrier Island Formation
Hoyt (1967) - sand dunes drowned in place by relative SL rise
de Beaumont (1845) - cross-shore sed. transport, from an excess, “traps” a lagoon.
Gilbert (1885) - Longshore sediment transport downdrift of a headland, or inlet, forms spits, that are occasionally breached.
(aside on inlets, tidal prisms, and ebb tidal deltas)
3 “models” not mutually exclusive - D.J.P. Swift (1968)
Inlet Dynamics: Spit Growth to Equilibrium Length
Thought to be controlled, in part, by tidal prism:
1.Within each tidal cycle, a “prism” of water must be moved into, and out of, the bay.
1.Spit extends freely until tidal currents, through narrowing inlet, disallow longshore transport - tidal currents generate shear stress sufficient to block longshore sediment transport.
2.Sediment “sinks” are the flood tidal and ebb tidal shoals (deltas)
Inlet SpacingRelated to sediment supply / distance from source
Near the sediment source (eroding headland, river mouth, etc.), inlet spacing is wide.
Flood and ebb-tidal shoals are a net sink for sediment, LST rate decreases downdrift.
At the distal end of the barrier island system (relative to source), inlet spacing becomes close, due to decreased LST rate
Beach Ridge Sets
Ubiquitous Landforms, without a clear explanation of their formation, preservation, and evolution.
One clear requirement – sediment supply.
Rink & Forrest (2005) combined OSL dating with Brooks (1972) RC dates to establish land accretion rate from beach ridges to be ~135 m/century
Examine numerous beach ridge sets through google earth.
Beach Ridge Generation by Changes in Wave Climate & Sediment Supply
St. Vincent Island, Apalachicola Delta, FL