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October 2013

BSNC October Program SIMPLE SOLDERING: You CAN Do It at Home

Presented by Kate Richbourg

Tuesday October 15, 2013 at 7:30 p.m. Social hour starts at 7 p.m.

Courtyard Marriott, 5555 Shellmound, Emeryville, 94605. The parking lot is a gated surface lot around the

hotel. Bring your parking ticket into the hotel; get it validated after the meeting and BSNC will pay the

parking fee. Members free with membership card. Guests $5

In this dynamic talk, Jewelry Educator, Designer and Writer, Kate

Richbourg discusses her methods for soldering in a small workspace. Kate

will discuss the set-up, methods and materials needed to take you to the

next level in your jewelry-making journey. Kate will have her best-selling

book, Simple Soldering available for purchase at the meeting. A fun and

informative talk, Kate encourages you join her for this fun evening.

Simply put, Kate Richbourg loves jewelry. She loves to teach it. She loves

to make it. She loves to wear it. Teaching and designing jewelry since

1992, she teaches at national shows, bead societies and bead shops and

is published in a variety of jewelry magazines and is the author of the

popular blog “We Can Make That at Home”. She has also appeared on

several episodes of the DIY and HGTV network shows “DIY Jewelry” and

“Craft Lab” and is a regular featured expert on Jewelry Television's "Jewel

School". Kate’s is the author of the bestselling book Simple Soldering: A

Beginner’s Guide to Jewelry Making from Interweave Press.

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VENETIAN GLASS TRADE BEADS – Rosanna Falabella

On July 16, 2013 B.S.N.C. member Rosanna

Falabella gave a hands-on presentation of

her collection of African Trade Beads. Her

fascination with these pieces of ancient

time started four years ago when the bead

society took a trip to Picard’s Bead

Museum in Carmel Valley, CA; and it was

an entry into Candy Land. It is one thing to

see color cards or to see them featured in

books, but John and Ruth Picard have

African Trade beads on display, in drawers,

and on strands for one to pick up and study

and eventually own and love. There is a

myriad of pattern designs, shapes, and

sizes. Many collectors center on one

particular area; but when you are just

starting out, you want one, or two, or

many of each type. Rosanna went on that

field trip, opened the drawers behind the

glass cabinet, and “it went downhill from

there.”

That night, her initial focus was the history

of African Trade Beads and why this history

is so important to their existence. Where

did they come from? What do they look

like? Why are their patterns and colors so

different? And most importantly, how

they will look worked up together into one

of her many fabulous necklaces?

If you were not fortunate enough to be there for her

presentation, you missed a fascinating history of the how

and why this category of beads evolved. While the ancient

history of glass bead making from 3,500 BC to current

times is a lengthy one, the most interesting point is that

these beads were made in Venice and Murano, Italy and

traded throughout North and South American countries,

primarily dealing through West Africa. China and India

then got into the mix, and glass beads were being made all

over the world. The fact that these two countries got into

making “African Trade Beads” has caused a great problem

of authentication of what is being sold today.

The development of the Peace Corps during the

1960-1970 period in the US was instrumental in

introducing many of these strands to the United

States. It was easy to purchase the beads and

tuck them into suitcases as the workers returned

home ~ bringing something “native” back from

their travels. The L.A. Bead Society, which

started in 1975, and the Bead Researchers,

which began six years later, have documented

over thirty years of the history and collection.

Today, the African traders in beads travel

throughout the world. The interest by

Europeans seems to have fallen off with the

development of online traders, and the issue of

fake African Trade Beads is manifested online

where you really can’t see or touch the beads to

help with their authentication. Some of the

original good beads are now being discovered as

estates sell off their collections. Recently, there

was a sale of the James Lewis estate, which

included three rooms full of African Trade Beads,

amassed by Mr. Lewis. Many of the B.S.N.C.

members were fortunate to have attended the

auctions and even purchased some items from

his collection.

Rosanna discussed how she accumulated her

personal collection with examples on the tables,

as well as slides illustrating her progression from

one or two beads being purchased, to their

incorporation into necklaces. There are many categories

and sub-categories, colors and patterns… Some collectors

specialize in a single style, shape, or color, e.g., millefiori or

chevron. Some are fortunate to purchase entire strands of

a certain type of bead, or necklaces that have been strung

with examples of many different beads.

The most exciting part is the purchase and identification of

each different type African Trade Bead. The original African

Trade Beads had a high lead content, so are heavy in the

hand, and their holes are large: 2-4 mm with no residue

inside. Their classification must be done hands-on to

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eliminate any of the reproductions flooding the market out

of the Far East. Many beads are also being found in

archeological dig sites. To assist in identifying your bead

purchase are the actual original bead cards, as can be seen

both on-line at Picard’s web site, in their color

publications, and as well as in person in their museum. The

J.F. Sick & Co. (1910 – 1950) published a catalog with

actual beads sewn onto cardstock that totaled 197 pages.

At 100 beads per page, that’s almost 20,000 different

beads ~ different is size, shape, color, and pattern design.

This is by far the best way for collectors to authenticate

their beads.

In showing us both slides and actual beads from her

personal collection, Rosanna continued with a hands-on

display and description of the various shapes, sizes, and

colors. Especially helpful was information on the colors

most noticeable in reproductions, as certain old glass

colors can only be made with chemicals no longer on the

open market, and often dangerous.

Some of the beads displayed and discussed were: drawn,

lampwork, and wound. But within each of those basic

categories were various shapes: cylinders, barrels and

discs, faceted, hand ground chevrons (one of the most

famously known types with 5-7 layers and then ground

back to display each color), tabular, rounds, elbows,

teardrops ~ some of these very, very rare! Then, it was on

to colors: clear/white/milky, sulfurous yellow, orange,

brown, pinks and purples (rare), a whole gamut of greens,

blues, and finally black which was often actually a dark

cobalt or green. Because it took the addition of real gold to

make a pure red, came the development of “white hearts”,

which consist of a layer of red glass over a white core. If all

those subcategories weren’t enough, it went on even

further, with the design itself. These could include the

“evil eye” for protection, trails, dots, faces, florals, trailings

and spirals, wedding cake designs, pulled feathers, squares

and circles, crumb decorated, millefiori canes (the most

famous) of which there are thousands of patterns, some

sliced and put on a solid bead and some laid sideways. It

goes on and on!

Today, in Africa, these trade beads are worn to show

status, history, and personal wealth. It doesn’t matter to

them if the center focal bead that looks like amber may

actually be plastic. It is the color and the aesthetics of the

piece in the design that matters. But…if you are a true

collector, it must be the real thing; and it is the excitement

of the hunt and the resulting discovery and authentication

that make it all worthwhile. Just ask Rosanna! B.S.N.C.

members who are also very much into collecting and

researching African Trade Beads are: Joyce Holloway, Fred

Chavez, John and Ruth Picard and Jamey D. Allen.

Rosanna was asked about the condition of the beads she

purchases. She said that if she purchases a bead to keep,

she cleans it; if she purchases it to sell or trade, she doesn’t

clean it as the condition of the bead is part of its history as

well.

Rosanna Falabella is a retired polymer materials scientist.

She has had a lifelong interest in fashion design and

tailoring, has been involved with beaded jewelry design for

15 years, and has collected Venetian and other trade beads

for the last four.

~Marilyn Peters

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CORD & THREAD + A TOUR OF BEAD & FIBER JEWELRY - Marion Hunziker-Larsen

B.S.N.C. was given a special

presentation seminar by

Marion Hunziker-Larsen on

Sunday, July 14, 2013 on

fiber, techniques, micro

macramé, Cavandoli

knotting, Kumihimo

braiding, Chinese knotting,

bead crochet, and cord

making.

Since the late 70’s, Marion

has used various fiber

techniques to create a large

collection of limited edition

and one-of-a-kind jewelry.

In 2006, with the gentle

push of her many

customers and friends, she

opened an on-line supply store. It grew overnight to the

point that she now supplies to professional artists,

designers, and students all over the world. She has also

become a color consultant for C-Lon, supplier of fiber cords

in over 104 colors. Her presentation covered the usage of

cords and fibers, as well as beautiful jewelry pieces that

are created through these techniques. Another important

subject to Marion is the use of adhesives, as she feels it is

important that our creations last for generations. She

discussed which ones to use and not use and why, a

subject utmost in every jewelry maker’s mind. She finished

with a slide presentation of the work done by fiber artists

from around the world ~ illustrating their similarities and

differences.

It all started in 1974, with a back-packing trip with her

now-husband. They met in Canada; and by 1975, he

dragged her along as he painted in Arizona. He had some

waxed linen in the van to repair his moccasins; desert

seeds were discovered on her walks, as well as a book on

macramé. Out of boredom, she started to play; and the

rest is history.

By the 1980s, she had entered the American Craft Council

Shows circuit and was doing gallery shows. Initially, she

worked in 3-dimension over wire armatures, making

mostly one-of-a-kind pieces. Many of her pieces were sold

through galleries, including Gallery 5 in Tequesta, Florida, a

famous gallery still operating today. Many of the galleries

went out of business due to economic issues, some still

owing artists monies. With the economy affecting even

specialty craft fairs, the exquisite unique pieces of jewelry

she is known for became harder to sell. After seeing a

stone donut knotted onto a piece of leather at a craft

show, she devised a style of fiber-embellished donuts

hanging from her cording and started to make pieces she

calls her Zen macramé series with only a few specialized

knots. With an increasing number of customers and fans,

she started holding workshops to teach her techniques,

and spread her vast knowledge of fibers and what you can

create with them.

Initially, there were few colors to work with, and the

popular fibers were coated with wax ~ which was

problematic when she found out that she was allergic to

that element. She switched to bonded nylon and silk as

her favorite working fibers. Marion discovered that she

could hand dye silk for special pieces; but for the bonded

nylon, she had to work with what was available

commercially. To obtain the colors Marion wanted for her

pieces, she tried to dye nylon at home; but nylon is not

easy to dye, and the colors didn’t last long. Nylon cord

comes in three forms: monofilament, twisted in a 3-ply “s”

and/or “z” twist (be careful not to try to mix the two when

making cords as that causes a disaster), or braided. The 3-

ply twist was originally available in the US either with a

waxed or bonded finish. Nowadays, only bonded nylon

cord is made in the U.S. At that time, Mastex™ was her

supplier with their 20+ colors, but they closed. Soon, C-

Lon™ took up the cause. They first created C-Lon Thread

size D, a mono-cord similar to Nymo™, especially made for

beading, bead lace, and bead embroidery. They went on to

produce C-Lon Bead Cord, a 3-ply bonded nylon specifically

for micro macramé and beading in 24 colors. C-Lon Bead

Cord now comes in 108 colors and four sizes.

Nylon was invented by DuPont™ as an alternative to silk

for making stockings. It became instantly popular, since silk

production had been disrupted by war and silk stocking

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were difficult to get. Nylon mimics filament silk with long

continuous filaments. Nylon is hyper-allergenic, as it does

not shed any of its fibers. It can be washed and vat dyed

(which was good with most light, though Marion doesn’t

recommend displaying any pieces, created with nylon, in

the sun).

Marion continued her presentation by discussing

adhesives. She ingeniously figured out how to create a

“self-needle” for stringing beads onto the thicker C-Lon

cord by feathering the end with a razor blade, waxing it

well with beeswax, and then twisting the fibers into a long,

thin, point. You can also glue cord ends using GS Hypo

Cement™ (only recommended for a temporary hold, as

most of the repairs she has done were for pieces initially

made with this adhesive – which she no longer uses), Poly

Zap™, or 5-minute epoxy. However, Poly-Zap is not

recommended for use around beads, as it’s fumes frost the

beads. Fray Check™ is a better alternative to use around

beads. It is a thread conditioner, but a bit stiff; and

because of its stiffness, it turns out to make an excellent

adhesive. Fray Block™, another thread conditioner similar

to Fray Check but not as stiff, is good for adding bond or

stiffness to cord when desired.

With the increasing popularity of micro macramé and

Kumihimo, she discussed the history of knotting

techniques in great detail. Years ago, cording and knots

were done on whaling ships as a way to pass the time and

still create something functional and beautiful. The

original Kumihimo cording technique was done by hand in

Japan, using a smooth wooden circular loom called a

marudai. Today’s kumihimo technique can be done easily

on a round foam disk or square plate with numbered slits

around the edges to hold the cording snugly in place.

There are numerous books on this subject showing

different cording designs possible by placing the cords’

colors in specific places. Marion has also started selling

Kumihimo kits hi-lighting her cords and ribbons.

Marion teaches the ancient “Crown Sennet” knotting

technique by using a Kumihimo foam disk. (She teaches

this technique at BABE!) It holds the cords snugly in place

and makes this technique easier to achieve than the

original method where the cords float loosely in your

fingers. She has placed a free tutorial on her site for a

Turkish Flat Bead Crochet/Knotting technique as well.

She showed slides of various artists and the knotting work

that made them famous. She discussed the various

techniques and tools associated with: tatting (with and

without a shuttle), bead crochet and knitting, square

knotting, Chinese knotting, micro-macrame, bead

embroidery, and finger weaving ~ all of which can be done

with the cords she sells.

“The re-emergence of Macrame has been centered around

jewelry, renamed Micro Macramé for short and mostly

features knotted cords with beads or gemstones.” DIY

books have been published by artists and authors such as

Joan Babcock, Kris Buchanan, Sherry Haab, Anika DeGroot

and Marie Le Sueur. Websites such as Macramé Collective

present macramé as an art form. The availability of

materials to work with has been a major factor. You need

cord to work with. “In 2005, I had difficulties finding

bonded nylon in a wide range of colors for myself and my

students, so when I discovered C-Lon, I decided to promote

them,” (from her web site and at bead shows). Marion’s

online store specializes in C-Lon which is a 3-ply nylon cord.

C-Lon Bead Cord comes in over 104 colors and in 4 sizes:

Micro Cord, Tex 135, C-Lon Bead Cord, and Tex 400 Cord.

Marion and her husband

have recently moved 2-

1/2 hours north, away

from the Bay Area.

She can be reached at:

P.O. Box 6776

Chico, CA 95927

530-774-2244

or check out her site:

www.jewelsinfiber.com.

~Marilyn Peters

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BRAGGS & BOUQUETS

Andrea Grzabka won the Bead and Button's Bead Dream 2013 show. She placed first in the seed bead category with her piece titled "Blue Feather".

That was the name of my first horse I had when I was a girl. You can see my piece in the Oct. Issue of Bead and Button

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COMMUNITY BOARD

Lucia Antonelli teaches jewelry classes at her home in Petaluma.

She teaches basic stringing, finishing techniques, design, and wire wrapping

using seed beads combined with all manner of beautiful components brought by you,

the student. Classes are tailor made to each student.

It is a beautiful and relaxed country setting: chickens, Vinny, the Bichon, and 2 kitties!

Please refer to her website. www.LuciaAntonelli.com to see her work.

You can contact her at 707-762-1165 or email her at luciaantonelli47@gmail.com

for all class details and for notification for all future classes.

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Calendar of Events

October 12, 2013 Saturday 10am-6pm

Trunk Show with Wild Things Beads at Ubeadquitous Ubeadquitous 9111 Windsor Rd Windsor, CA

October 12 & 13, 2013 Saturday & Sunday 10am- 5pm

NC NAGLE GEMS & BEADS will be at the 45th

annual Nevada County Gem & Mineral Society Show. For more info: www.ncgms.org or www.ncnaglegemsandbeads.com

Nevada County Fairgrounds Main Exhibit Hall 11228 McCourtney Road Grass Valley, CA

October 13, 2013 Sunday 9am -3pm

Judy from Natural Touch will have a booth at the Marin Outdoor Antique Flea Market. Free Admission and Free Parking She'll be bringing vintage laces & trim, buttons, old beads, etc.

Marin Veterans Memorial Auditorium Parking Lot

October 15, 2013 Tuesday 7:30pm

BSNC October Speaker: Simple Soldering: You CAN Do It at Home, Presented by Kate Richbourg. In this dynamic talk, Jewelry Educator, Designer and Writer, Kate Richbourg discusses her methods for soldering in a small workspace.

Courtyard Marriott 5555 Shellmound Emeryville, CA 94605

October 19 & 20, 2013 Saturday & Sunday 10am- 5pm

NC NAGLE GEMS & BEADS will be at the El Dorado County Gem & Mineral Society 29th Annual Rock & Gem Show. For more info:www.eldoradomineralandgem.org or www.ncnaglegemsandbeads.com

El Dorado County Fairgrounds 100 Placerville Road Placerville, CA

October 26 & 27, 2013 Saturday & Sunday 10am- 5pm

NC NAGLE GEMS & BEADS will be at the Peninsula Gem & Geology Society 6th Annual Show. For more info: http://pggs.org or www.ncnaglegemsandbeads.com

Los Altos Civic/ Youth Center One San Antonio Rd. Los Altos, CA

October 27, 2013 Sunday 10am-4pm

Deborah Anderson will be displaying and selling her work at The Fifth Annual FABMO TEXTILE ART BOUTIQUE. Repurposing with style one of a kind treasures, handcrafted by more than 40 local artisans. Free admission and parking. For more info: www.fabmo.org

Quadrus Conference Center 2400 Sand Hill Road Menlo Park, CA

Sarah Shriver will be at the annual KPFA Craft Show. Check her website for more information at www.sarahshriver.com.

Concourse Building 8th and Brannon San Francisco, CA

November 3, 2013 Sunday 10am-4pm

TEXTILE BAZAAR: Treasures from Around the World Sponsored by the Textile Arts Council of the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco. Free Admission to shop over 30 vendors offering an extensive selection of extraordinary textiles and jewelry from across the globe. Free parking too!

Moriarty Hall, St. Anne of the Sunset Church 1300 Funston (at Judah) San Francisco, CA

November 3, 2013 Sunday 10am-4pm

Judy of Natural Touch will have a booth at the Textile Art Council Bazaar She'll be bringing tribal wood bowls, old beads and beaded jewelry, Indonesian baskets, masks, and textiles. http://deyoung.famsf.org/deyoung/calendar/textile-arts-council-textile-bazaar-treasures-around-world

Moriarty Hall of St.Anne's Church 1300 Funston at Judah San Francisco, CA

November 9-11, 2013 Sarah Shriver will be at the Celebration of Craftswomen. Check her website for more information at www.sarahshriver.com.

Fort Mason

November 14-17, 2013 The Bay Area Bead Extravaganza! classes are spectacular this year. Check them out and sign-up at www.BeadExtravaganza.com

Marriott City Center Hotel 10th & Broadway Oakland, CA 94607

November 16-17, 2013 Saturday 10am-6pm Sunday 10am-5pm

The Bay Area Bead Extravaganza! show is lining up to be the best yet. Come and shop all your favorite vendors this year. Many even offer special discounts to BSNC members.

Marriott City Center Hotel 10th & Broadway Oakland, CA 94607

Nov 23 & 24, 2013 Sat 10am-5pm Sun 10am-4pm

Wild Things Beads will be at the Livermore Lithorama Gem & Mineral Show Held at "The Barn".

3131 Pacific Ave off South Livermore Ave Livermore, CA

November 30, 2013 Saturday 1pm - 6pm

Sarah Shriver will host the Holiday Open Studio, at her studio. Featuring different artists- snacks, beverages and big fun. Check her website for more information at www.sarahshriver.com.

8 Redding Way San Rafael, CA

Nov. 29-Dec. 1, 2013 Friday 12pm-6pm Saturday 10 am - 6 pm Sunday 11 am - 5 pm

The Garden of Beadin’ will be at the San Mateo Intergem show with seedbeads, Czech glass, stringing material and beading supplies. BSNC Members get 10% off with their card. Call 2 weeks ahead of the show with any special orders. Send a SASE to: PO Box 1535, Redway, CA 95560 for free entry tickets.

San Mateo Event Center 2495 South Delaware Street San Mateo, CA 94403

Nov. 30 & Dec. 1, Dec. 7 & 8, 14 & 15, 21 & 22, 2013 Saturdays and Sundays 11am-6pm

Susan Brooks will be part of the 23rd

annual Berkeley Artisans Holiday Open Studio Free Self-Guided Tour of 100 Professional Artisan Workshops. This self-guided tour presents a unique opportunity to meet the artists, to buy original & creative gifts, and to see working craft studios, giving viewers a glimpse into the creative process. Many studios are in the same building, or are clustered within walking distance from one another.

Various locations throughout Berkeley. A list of participants and a map are available at www.berkeleyartisans.com

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DISCOUNTS FOR BSNC MEMBERS!

The following stores offer discounts – show your current membership card

ALAMEDA Bead Inspirations www.BeadInspirations.com 1544 Park Street Tel: 510-337-1203 10% discount except class fees, books, consignment jewelry & instructor material kits. BENICIA Beading Around the Bush 126 East E Street Tel: 707-747-9094 15% discount except for classes, books & sale items. BERKELEY Baubles & Beads www.BaublesandBeads.com 1676 Shattuck Avenue Tel: 510-644-2323 15% discount except for classes, books & sale items. If shopping online, use coupon code NCBS15. CONCORD Just Bead It! www.JustBeadItConcord.com 2051 Harrison Street, Suite C Tel:925-682-6943 DANVILLE Cottage Jewel www.CottageJewel.com 100 Prospect Avenue Tel: 925-837-2664 10-15% off everything not marked net. FAIRFIELD KimberlyKate Beads 720 Texas Street Tel: 707-426-2003 10% discount when you show your membership card. No discount on consignment items. GARBERVILLE Garden of Beadin’ www.GardenofBeadin.com 752 Redwood Drive Tel: 800-232-3588 Fax: 707-923-9160 Email: Beads@asis.com 10% off for all BSNC members, in our store or at any of our shows. Does not apply to already discounted merchandise. OAKLAND Blue Door Beads www.BlueDoorBeads.com 4167 Piedmont Ave Tel: 510-652-2583 10% discount. PENN VALLEY Wild Things Beads www.WildThings.com PO Box 1990 Tel: 530-743-1339 20% discount on Czech pressed beads and fire polish. SAN JOSE Sew Bedazzled 1068 Lincoln Avenue Tel: 408-293-2232 10% discount except on classes.

SANTA CRUZ Kiss My Glass 660A 7

th Avenue Tel: 831-462-3077

15% Discount VACAVILLE Beads on Main www.BeadonMain.com 313 Main St. Tel:707-446-1014 10% discount at our bead store. Does not apply to finished jewelry, magazines/books, class fees, already discounted merchandise & Swarovski crystal packs. or if member is eligible for our wholesale customer discount. VALLEJO Beads in Pomegranate Seeds 538 C Florida Street Tel: 707-557-3337 10% Discount INTERNET STORES Beadshaper www. Beadshaper.com coupon code is: BSNC58713coupon 10% discount on handcrafted items bought directly from Beadshaper through the Beadshaper web site and at the Beadshaper booth at shows in Northern California. This does not apply to Beadshaper items sold at art galleries, boutiques, or through another vender. The discount only applies to items created by the Beadshaper. It does not apply to Beadshaper classes or items purchased by the Beadshaper for resale. It cannot be applied together with any other discount. CBA, Inc. www.ChinaBizAccess.com Tel: 916-873-6230 Fax: 916-983-9128 15% discount except for on already discounted merchandise. Enter member code BSNC in comment area when ordering. Natural Touch www.NaturalTouchBeads.com Tel: 707.781.0808 NCBS members receive 10% off their Resin Bead Purchases. Put note in comments section of checkout or call 707.781.0808 Discount does not apply to sale items or markdowns.

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Annual Membership Dues, which include digital mailings and meetings are $20 per year. Memberships with snail mail and meetings is $30 per year. The year begins on the month you join. Dues are accepted at monthly meetings or can be paid online using PayPal or a credit card, or with a Membership Application printed from our website.