A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and...

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Transcript of A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and...

Page 1: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would
Page 2: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

A watchm

We are foStyria, nehas develpeople whsecrets wi

making no man’s lan

ortunate to live and wighbouring Slovenia loped under the preho live here are unill be handed down fr

nd?

work in an area of tand Friuli, the nort

eservation of traditioified by an understarom generation to ge

3

the Alpe-Adria regioh-easterly countrysid

ons, taste and qualitanding for indigenoueneration within smal

on, an area pamperede of Italy, together ty. Despite differentus, authentic and gel family businesses.

ed by nature. Carinthshape a region, wh

t native languages, enuine products who

hia, hich the ose

Page 3: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

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We appreciate this tremendous abundance that surrounds us all every day. Many years ago we faced the question of whether our products reflect to the rules and regulations imposed by our employers in those times. The answer was very sobering and has allowed the desire to search for this authenticity, which appears to have been lost over the years, to flourish in us.

At the same time, the idea is not entirely new: These values were quite commonplace when the production of wearable, mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would go to the watchmaker and have a watch made to the stipulated requirements. Then, the craftsman first devised the desired product and assembled it to some extent over years of detail work, vigorously supported by his helpers, into a functioning ensemble.

The industrial revolution and its aftermath have considerably changed this approach to watchmaking. Not only were production methods, quantities and production costs turned upside down, but also the brand gained greater importance. Brands have become a part of today’s consumer world and many stand for exceptional quality and grandeur. Alongside this world of brands there is also the world of “Anti-brands”. These are the small producers and family businesses that do not aspire to worldwide fame, but rather take pleasure in developing and manufacturing a perfect product according to their own preferences.

Immerse yourself into the world of Habring² and let yourself be carried away, sensitised and perhaps inspired. You will not only get to know what brings us pleasure but also read things which will not normally be found in any other comparable work. Simply authentic and genuine.

Page 4: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

Who are w

Allow us toRichard Hconcept inquestion ahave beenregister it founder. Bcome clomissing wnot only aequal stan

Of courseourselves by hand.”

However, therefore sfor what wcontained

we?

o introduce ourselveHabring. When we nto reality after manyarose: “What shall wn simple to search fand convene the pa

But that would have oser than our famiwas a symbol of visibla married couple butnding.

e, Habring² is nota manufacturer in thOur ever-growing yo

let us get back to Hsignificantly influencewe wanted to convin every Habring². M

s: Maria Kristina Habstarted to turn ou

y years of developmewe call our baby?” Itfor an old brand namast traditions of the been too easy. Whaly name? But whale equality. After all, t also business partn

t a factory; we cohe original meaning ooung team has suppo

Habring²: Both of oured the design. So, wey. The result is H

More about that in the

5

bring & ur first ent, the t would me, re-former

at could at was we are ners of

onsider of the word. Accordinorted us since 2004.

r full names would hwe came up with the Habring². In the meae following chapters.

ngly, the correct trans

have taken too much“2” in superscript for

antime, the “2” also

slation would be, “Ma

h space on the dial armat as an ideal symo signifies the poten

ade

and mbol ntial

Page 5: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

Know-how Suitabilityfor daily uThey are wsituation th

Quality cmanufactusubjected we also uGermany specificati

Longevityparts suchtried and t

Exclusivemade to appearancare manifo

Customerconstructiowatch “fac

w from Austria

y for daily use: Hause; they are robust waterproof, shockproheir owners encount

control: Habring² uring facility in Völto detailed adjustme

use individual parts and Switzerland

ons.

y: Several moving ph as the so-called estested reliability, this

eness: All Habring² morder, whereby thece. Whether classicaold.

r orientation: All on kit, allows us to ces”, there are equall

abring² watches are and reliable companoof and robust enouer in their day to day

watches are madekermarkt, Carinthia,ent. Along with self-manufactured by spin accordance wi

parts come into playscapement and the balso guarantees the

models are limited toe future owner specally elegant, sporty o

Habring² models utake into account culy as many functions

6

completely suitablenion for many years.ugh to cope with anyy lives.

e by hand at our, and subsequentlymanufactured parts,pecialists in Austria,th our plans and

y,in particular the wbalance wheel procu availability of spare

o a maximum of 12 pcifies the desired feor suited for evening

underlie a modular ustomer wishes to a

s for selection.

e . y

r y , ,

d

wheels, the movemered from Swiss seriaparts in the long term

pieces per year. Eaceatures and functio

g attire, low-key or ve

system. This systa higher degree. Alo

ent-regulating assemal production. Alongsm.

h and every Habringons and influences ery visible - the optio

tem, comparable toong with many differ

mbly side

g² is the ons

o a rent

Page 6: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

As a grancreational requiremeand everyfunctions taken into

Classic Ddesign tha316L stainallergenic 10mm cou

d novelty in today’s wpossibility not just p

ents can change evey Habring² owner has

or mechanisms (teaccount).

Design: The Habringat has its roots in thenless steel, 18 caraand lightweight titan

unts primarily among

world of watchmakinprior to the purchase en years after the as the possibility to retechnical feasibility m

g² model portrays a late 1930s. Availabl

at rose gold, 548PDnium. Whilst the clasg the larger watches

available as of 20

More volume = model is not influin size by abouHabring² watchemovement is theflat watch, as theitself also plays asince – as with contents. This iswatch glass mad

7

ng, Habring² offers thof the watch. After a

acquisition of a watctrofit desired additionmust obviously to b

a classic and timelese casing materials a

D white gold and anssic Habring² with its, the opportunity to o011.

greater reliability: uenced by fashion alout 15% since the 1s is founded in inne

e reason behind a sle latter is subject toa role as it encloses t

a nutshell – the ts also why every He from synthetic sap

his all, ch, nal be

ss are nti-s casing diameter oforder selected mode

The size of both inone. Although wrist w990s, the increase

er values. A constanightly deeper watch

o tighter physical limthe highly complex athicker the shell, thabring² has a slight

pphire.

f 42mm and depth frels in a 36mm casing

n the 42mm and 36mwatches have increas in the dimensionsnt, precise and reliaas opposed to a suitations. But the cas

and valuable movemee better protected tly thicker scratchpr

rom g is

mm sed

s of able uper sing ent, the

roof

Page 7: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

Spoilt forlasting pleAfter all, itbe it classmother-of-

ExclusiveFunctionaCOS (crowfound excmovemensunburst dalso offer All Habrinmovemenwinding. Twinding crof a centrpower resusually be

r choice: Size bringeasure is pre-programt’s not only watches sic white or cream, -pearl in varying colo

e mechanical movl modules and constwn operation systemclusively in Habringts – by hand, sometidials, stripe dials, pea very special decor

ng² models are ats. The future owneThe manual windingrown whilst the autorifugal mass from thserve – the timespaetween 40 and 48 ho

gs a further convenimmed into a Habringthat get older. The cmetallic silver, grey

ours. Uniqueness, jus

vements: Habring² tructional systems sm) are all developedg² watches. Habringimes using antique a

erlage or cloud dials ation on request: Th

utomatically powereer has the choice bg version is suppliematic movement ge

he movement energan for which a watcurs.

8

ent spin-off in additg² together with an echoice of possible diay, blue, black, coppest as in real life.

assembles all its much as the tourbillond and realised in-hog² creates the perfappliances and in accthere are also planee free-hand style of t

ed exclusively by between manual anded with energy by nerates its energy w

gy of the wearer. Thch runs when fully

tion to robustness: Gemphasis on clear anal colours is extensiver or brown, or the

movements exclusivns, for example, the ouse. The latter arefect finish – the tracordance with old lore polishes, chamfersthe engraver.

mechanical d automatic turning the

with the help he so-called wound – is

Good readability. Lond conservative desive. Each face is uniqfascinating shimmer

vely in its own studjumping second or

e actually patented aaditional decorationre. In addition to clas

s and satin finishes.

ong-ign.

que, r of

dio. the

and of ssic We

Page 8: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

individual possible w

Every Habincludes aparts delivcontinent.

Mechanicmechanicaback on mfew yearskeeps on stands in t

parts and re-lubricatwear.

bring² is delivered togare a winding crown, very and the assoc

cal watches are “Oal watch of today can

more than 500 years . A Habring² is thererunning. The availa

the way of longer usa

Maintetime. Treplacereplacetakes agives im

The terregular the mov

ting them. Proper ma

gether with a set of sa few spring bars aniated waiting times

Organic”: In generan be viewed in a verof development hist

fore just as reliable aability of spare partsage over generations

9

nance: Mechanical his includes the ann

ement of the casingement of window screa mere 20 seconds ammediate information

rm service also refeintervals of once e

vement for the purpoaintenance guarantee

spare parts. In additind a set of hands. T– after all, Habring

al, in the times of mry different light. Whitory, the technology as great-great-grands is guaranteed for s, provided regular m

watches should beual water tightness i

g seal, comparable een wipers on a car. and, together with a n on the condition an

ers to an inspectionevery 5 years. This ose of removing wornes the timely identific

on to all of the neceshus, each Habring² i

g² watches are mea

more mature consumlst the wearable mecbehind it has chang

dfather’s proverbial pmore than 30 years

maintenance is ensur

e serviced from timeinspection and possto the inspection aTesting water tightneshort visual inspecti

nd possible necessitie

n that should occurincludes disassembn (aged) lubricants frcation and prevention

ssary seals the set ais independent of sp

anwhile found on ev

mers, the highly valuchanical watch can loged very little in the ocket watch that sim

s and therefore nothred.

e to ible and ess ion, es.

r at ling rom n of

also pare very

ued ook last

mply hing

Page 9: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

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Positive eco-balance: Our processes are also environmentally friendly. The necessary cleaning of the movement during the course of a value conservation service at Habring Uhrentechnik OG is performed using bio-degradable cleaning materials. In principle, valuable watches and their mechanical movements are exclusively finished with durable metals. Brass and copper alloys are used for the movements alongside with tempered steels. When considering the recycling aspect a mechanical watch offers a much more favourable ecological balance than a quartz watch, which – along with its difficult to recycle electronic components – usually contains heavy metal batteries.

The preference for suppliers in Austria and neighbouring countries has its origins in a desire for sustainability and shorter routes of transport. In this connection, small to medium-sized family businesses with a similar structure are perfect partners with comparable requirements and goals. All components are calculated and produced on the basis of fair considerations; together we create and maintain jobs in Europe.

Watchmaker – Occupation with a future? For many years the profession of the watchmaker in Austria has been a dying trade due to the historical development of moving “away from production and towards repair”. The training of young watchmakers is in decline. Both training centres have difficulty in finding the necessary minimum number of students. In addition, the requirements demanded of the younger generation are high. Technical understanding, a steady hand and patience are just a few of the basic prerequisites. The biggest hurdle is that, after 3 ½ or 4 years of training, the graduates have only acquired a very basic knowledge. A high level of personal diligence is then necessary for many years to gain the experience that is indispensible for handling high value mechanical watches.

Sustainability – not just with regard to the product: Habring Uhrentechnik OG provides a practical apprenticeship for trainees under real conditions, enabling them to perfect their skills. In turn, this has enabled some employees to remain in Carinthia.

Page 10: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

Time

It began inclassic arc

A change 6 o’clock pthe meantlarge and amount of

n 2004 with a simplechetype. A pure disp

of model resulted inposition to the 9 o’cltime, the second gevery readable date f

f still available drive e

e 3-hand watch that lay of time, or “time o

a new movement foock position. Along w

eneration of “time onfunction at 3 o’clock,energy – make the “T

11

separately displayedonly”, as it became k

or the “Time only”, wwith greater added vnly” has a few mino, the display of moonTime Only” to a “Tim

d hours, minutes andknown in internationa

hereby the seconds value it also represe

or “useful complication phases and a powee-Date”, “Time-Moon

d seconds following al watch forums.

were changed from nts greater potentialons” to choose fromer reserve display – n”, or “Time-Reserve

the

the l. In

m. A the

e.”

Page 11: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

The facts:

• Avca

• Dap

• Mph

Conclusio

vailable in stainless asing upon request ials in silver with rppliqués ovement calibre A0hases

n: The classic Habrin

steel, titanium or go

hodiated, rose gold

9M, upon request w

ng² for purists and be

12

old casing in 42mm

d or blue appliqués

with additional displa

eginners.

diameter, or in sta

; in black, blue or

ays such as date, p

inless steel with 36m

bronze with rhodia

power reserve or mo

mm

ated

oon

Page 12: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

The little

The primabase sectdirectly by36mm has

The movewith small

Habring²

ary function of every wtion enclose the comy the size of the mos led to the familiar 4

ements of the seconer dimensions withou

watch casing is to prmplicated technolog

ovement. The consis42mm casing of the c

d generation with a ut jeopardising the ro

13

rotect the movementgy like armour. The stent use of robust acomplete Habring² lin

diameter of just 30mobustness or renown

. The casing, the sapdimensions of the

and reliable movemene.

mm now make it poned reliability of a Ha

pphire face and the casing are determin

ents with a diameter

ossible to offer a casbring².

ned r of

sing

Page 13: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

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Its dimensions of just 36mm make it an ideal alternative for those who prefer the classic casing size. The "small Habring²“ is a choice option for selected models and variants of bigger brothers and sisters. It is especially suitable for movements that have a slightly flatter design and therefore support the harmonious overall impression of the watch and enable the use of casings with a height of less than 10mm despite housing a mechanism that is both reliable and suitable for everyday use.

The facts:

• Stainless steel casing with a diameter of 36mm, available on request for the models "Time" and "Jumping Second" in their respective basic versions

• Dials analogue to the variants available for each model • Movement calibre A09M, A09MD or A09MS

Conclusion: The classic Habring² for anyone who feels the 42mm variant is too big for their wrist.

Page 14: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

Jumping

The main hands turwatchmakmore or lewith quartrealised in

Second

characteristic of the rn at the centre of king, it is the movemess continuous pace tz watches was in fn pocket watches in t

basic version of secthe dial including

ment of the seconds hbut, in the true mea

fact state-of-the-art lthe 18th century.

15

cond model in the histhe seconds hand. hand that indicates tning of the words, a long before their ap

story of Habring² is itWhilst this doesn’t

the passing of time. jumping pace. What

ppearance. Jumping

ts tidy and clear dial.t depict a specialityThis is not the familt is normally associaseconds were alrea

. All y in liar,

ated ady

Page 15: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

They thenthe 1950scalled “Do

The fascinsmall sprinother in ainadequatsecond is

n sank into oblivion as: The usual manualoctor’s watches”.

nating jumping moveng that releases thea precise cycle of stely translated as “dpatented worldwide.

and did not experienl pulse measuring m

ement of the second seconds hand tip w

seconds. The Frencdead second.” Incide.

16

ce a renaissance unmethod was simplifie

s hand happens as within fractions of a sh description for thentally, the technica

ntil they were rediscoed by the use of suc

the result of a conssecond, speeding it fis is “seconde mort

al implementation of

overed by physiciansch time-keepers, or

tant preload of a sinfrom one marker to te”, which can only f the Habring² jump

s in so-

ngle the be

ping

Page 16: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

The jumpipower resweekday,

ing second is also cerve, 2nd time zone othe month and the c

complemented with or world time display

current moon phase.

17

additional functions y, or a full calendar fu

to choose from: Daunction that, along w

ate display at 3 o’clowith the date, shows

ock, the

Page 17: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

The facts:

• Avav

• Dsu

• Mtim

Conclusio

vailable in stainless vailable in stainless s

ials in silver with rhouperluminova coating

ovement calibre A07me zone or world tim

n: The Habring² with

steel, titanium or gsteel with a 36mm dia

odiated, rose gold or g; in white with rose g

7M or A07, upon reqme display, full calend

h the little secret know

18

gold casing with a 4ameter upon request

blue appliqués; in bgold appliqués

quest with additionaldar function

wn only to its owner.

42mm diameter; thet

black and grey with r

displays such as: d

e basic version is a

hodiated appliqués a

date, power reserve,

also

and

2nd

Page 18: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

Foudroya

In the medbe interprmovemencomplememotto “Seearlier pocspeaking, incredible

ante

dical sense the termeted into the watchmts. This movement is

entary hands togetheize the day – every scket watches, its comit is a great challe86,400 revolutions p

foudroyant means “maker’s language ass accompanied by ther display and sharesecond counts!” Whimbination with the junge to successfully per day.

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“starting suddenly, es a hand that perforhe jumping seconds e the passing of timlst such a sub-seconmping second is a uimplement an axis

ruptive and quickly prms one revolution phand in the Habring²

me in synchrony, munds hand was an exisunique and a world fi

with an attached h

passing”, but it can aper second with sim²-Foudroyante. The t

uch in keeping with sting component parrst. After all, technicand that completes

also milar

two the

rt of cally

an

Page 19: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

Two yearscomponen

The facts:

• Av

• D

• M

Conclusio

s’ development accont against wear and t

vailable in stainless s

ials in silver with rho

ovement calibre A07

n: The Habring² for p

ompanied by excesstear up to the standa

steel, titanium or gold

diated, rose gold or b

7F

philosophers, but als

20

sive testing were neard of the remaining m

d casing in 42mm dia

black appliqués; in b

o for those for whom

ecessary to bring thmovement.

ameter

blue and grey with rho

m nothing can pass to

e resistance of suc

odiated appliqués

oo quickly.

h a

Page 20: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

Chrono S

Chronografact; amon

Today, theo’clock are

Start and course, th

Sport

aphs are watches thng the first chronogra

e usual hour and me accompanied by th

stop is implementede Chrono Sport can

hat can hold time spaaphs were those that

minute display at the he chronograph seco

d using the button attotal stop times.

21

ans. “Chronograph” t marked the end of a

centre and the smaond hand at the centr

t 2 o’clock and reset

translates as “time ra time span on a dial

all, continuously runre and the 30 minute

tting to zero with the

recorder” and, in actl with an ink spot.

ning second hand ahand at 3 o’clock.

e button at 4 o’clock.

tual

at 9

. Of

Page 21: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

The facts:

• Av

• Dblcr

• M

Conclusiobreakfast,

vailable in stainless s

ials in silver with bluue, black or grey wream with blue appliqovement calibre A08

n: The Habring² for afor example.

steel casing in 42mm

ue or rose gold applwith rhodiated appliqqués. 8

athletes, but also for

22

m diameter

liqués, with rhodiateués and superlumin

r wearers who only w

ed appliqués and supnova coating as wel

want one reliable sto

perluminova coatingll as in pure white a

opwatch to boil eggs

g; in and

s for

Page 22: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

Chrono C

“COS” is function, cprevious p

This functrotation ofmotion in crown pas

COS

short for “Crown Opcontrolled not by thepage the comparison

ionality is reminiscenf approximately 45° the opposite directio

st the stop position ag

peration System” ane classic button but n with a conventional

nt of the combined onanti-clockwise with a

on will also stop it. Tgainst resistance, the

23

nd signifies Habring²rather by turning thchronograph contro

n-and-off switch withan audible click is ehe Chrono COS cane counter will be rese

²’s worldwide registehe crown. Additionall.

h the volume control enough to start the cn total stop times andet.

ered patent, the “Stlly, you will see on

of old radio sets. A lichronograph. The sad, by simply turning

top” the

ight ame

the

Page 23: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

24

The Chrono COS has not only done away with the buttons and associated drill holes in the casing, thereby reducing the risk of water penetration, but also with the common tiny jolt of the seconds hand at the start. In conventional chronographs this is caused by the required pressure point of the button and results in counter inaccuracies in range of tenths of second, be they significant or not. Thanks to the silky smooth operation of the Chrono COS this forgivable weakness of classic chronographs now belongs in the past.

As of mid 2011 the Chrono COS will also be available as a reduced model. The common face of the chronograph will also disappear along with the buttons. Whilst the constantly running seconds hand is completely omitted, the minutes hand appears in a new robe, namely as a 60 minutes hand from the centre. The Habring² Chrono COS ZM (ZM stands for “central minutes counter”) is thus the first and only additions chronograph of high value with the appearance of a classic three-handed watch.

The facts:

• Available in stainless steel, titanium or gold casing in 42mm diameter

• Dials in silver with blue or rose gold appliqués, with rhodiated appliqués and superluminova coating as well as in pure white and cream with blue appliqués

• Movement calibre A08COS Conclusion: The athlete in evening dress. The well-known double-zero agent will envy you when he thinks about what is concealed under your shirt cuffs.

Page 24: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

Chrono C

The ChronCOS: redu

This escaconstantlyminute cothe first an

COS ZM

no COS ZM represeuction to the bare ess

lation does away wity running seconds haunter from the centr

nd only additions chr

nts the consistent fusentials.

th not only the buttonand is omitted compre. The Habring² Chrronograph of high val

The facts:

• Availab• Dials in

and su appliqué

• Movem

Conclusion: a m

25

urther development o

ns but also with the letely, the minute harono COS ZM (ZM slue with the appeara

le in stainless steel, n silver with gold-plaperluminova coatingés ent calibre A08COSZ

more understated chr

of the idea behind th

familiar face of the cand appears in a newstands for “central mnce of a classic three

titanium or gold casited, rhodiated, rose

g as well as in pure

ZM

ronograph is simply i

e Habring² Chrono

chronograph. Whilst w robe, namely as a

minutes counter”) is the-handed watch.

ng in 42mm diametegold or blue appliqu

e white with rose g

nconceivable

the a 60 hus

er ués

gold

Page 25: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

Tourbillon

The Tourbcopper bestandardsbearing) wHabring² watchmak

n 3D

billon 3D from Habrieryllium tourbillon ca in tourbillon design.were more technicaTourbillon 3D, is h

king robust and suitab

ing² sets itself apartrriage, and also thro Whilst flying bearinglly delicate and vul

highly resistant agable for everyday use

26

t from classic constrough the “flying” beags (this is the watchmnerable in the past

ainst vibrations and .

ructions above all tharing of the filigree cmaker’s term for a ca, the micro ball bea

shocks. This is w

rough its anti-magnearriage which sets n

antilevered or one-sidaring which serves

what makes the art

etic new ded the

t of

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28

The true story of the tourbillon

The “Crown” of watchmaking was invented in 1795 by Abraham Louis Breguet to – in simple words – balance the influence of gravity on the components responsible for regulating movement. These parts – the anchor wheel, the anchor and the balance wheel - are located in a cage which turns a full circle on its own axis.

One of the keys to high-precision mechanical watches is the equilibrium of the balance wheel, i.e. a centre of gravity, which ideally lies perfectly in the centre of rotation, similar to a gyroscope. Of course, Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporaries were capable of perfectly balancing the wheels of that age, in a similar way that we balance car tyres today. So,why all the effort?

Looking at things somewhat closer, the metallurgical possibilities were way behind what they are today. The physical length adjustment of steel coil springs used at the time led to the movement running fast or slow; this was equalised by so-called compensatory balance wheels. The collar of these wheels were two semi-circular bimetallic strips of steel and brass; thus, the diameter of the balance wheel changed in response to changes in temperature, counteracting the behaviour of the springs. The problem lay in the production of these bimetal balance wheels. A prefabricated steel collar was dipped into liquid brass to apply the required brass coating. This insufficient hardness of the brass coating was remedied with mechanical compaction in the form of hammering. However, this resulted in stresses, which caused both bimetallic semi-circles to work differently under changes in temperature.

The centre of gravity of the balance wheel that was perfectly balanced at room temperature moved with heat and cold; we should remember that watches in those days were not yet worn on the wrist but rather carried in a pocket. The resulting inaccuracies of the movement annoyed Breguet so he devised the tourbillon mechanism to compensate them.

Page 28: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

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29

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Page 31: A watch m - Start-en mechanical watches first commenced. In the times of Abraham Louis Breguet and his contemporary and employee Joseph Thaddäus Winnerl, a Styrian by birth, one would

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32

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33

1799 Josef Thaddaeus Winnerl, the inventor of the so-called "Chronoscope" – a predecessor of the chronograph – is born in Mureck

1800 Dissolution of the "Imperial and Royal Privileged Clock Factory of Geneva" due to a lack of commercial success

1815 Winnerl relocates to Graz having spent six years as an apprentice in the trade; founding of "Geist und Jäckle"

1824 Josef Geist dies in Graz. His son-in-law and business partner Bernhard Jäckle acquires his clock-making factory in Graz and subsequently manages it together with his two brothers

1828 "Gebrüder Jäckle" produce 2,000 clocks

1830 Clock-maker Simberth Höfler from Völkermarkt/Carinthia is appointed in Graz as master clock-maker

1836 "Gebrüder Jäckle" produces 5,000 clocks and maintains customer relations reaching as far as England, New York and Philadelphia, in addition to many major cities in Germany, Italy and the Levant

1829 Winnerl relocates to Paris and becomes an independent clock-maker following periods of employment with various others including Breguet

1841 Having worked with Winnerl for four years, Ferdinand Adolph Lange returns to Glashütte and establishes the region's clock-making industry in 1845

1844 Chronometer manufacturer Winnerl receives a knighthood from the French Legion of Honour and publishes some of his works

1850 Winnerl is appointed to the Observatory in Paris

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1859 Freedom of trade is declared under new trade laws introduced in Austria. The clock-maker guilds and their protected privileges are a thing of the past

1860 "Georg Jäckle", successor to "Gebrüder Jäckle", manufactures 1,557 clocks that are sold in the capital cities of Austria, Saxony, Prussia and Italy

1860 Only 24 clock-makers remain as members of the Graz guild

1868 Winnerl manufactures the first electric pendulum clock

1883 The classification of trades (including that of the clock-maker) still applicable today is introduced

1890 Austria's clock-making industry more or less vanishes into thin air

1917 Karl Satori (1871 - 1954) invents the fused quartz rod compensation pendulum

To describe the manufacture of specific clocks such as masterpieces and similar would go beyond the scope of this article. The records of the clock-makers of Graz reviewed by Lukas Stolberg list a total of 342 names up to the year 1890, including a few who manufactured a number of clocks. A list of 2,500 Viennese clock-makers compiled by Kaltenböck contains names less than a dozen manufacturers active at the start of the 20th century.

Sources:

Lukas Stolberg: „Die Steirischen Uhrmacher“ (1979); Frederick Kaltenböck: „Die Wiener Uhr“ (1988); Claterbos, F. H. van Weijdom: „Viennese Clockmakers and what they left us – Geschichte und Technik der Wiener Uhren und Wiener Uhrmacher (1979)“

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35

Further information, for instance on clock movements, technical details, the modular system of the Habring² and answers to other frequently asked questions can be found at our website www.habring2.com.

Photo credits (unless the property of Habring Uhrentechnik OG):

page 3: Tourismusregion Klopeiner See - Südkärnten GmbH page 5: Yasmina Haddad

page 32: Piskernik Collection

Our thanks go to the following suppliers and partners for their support in word and deed and the confidence placed in us:

Cador GmbH, D-Eimeldingen Craiss GmbH, D-Wurmberg Estima AG, CH-Grenchen

ETA SA, CH-Grenchen Francois Golay SA/Valdar SA CH-L’Orient

Fricker GmbH, D-Pforzheim Hirsch Armbänder GmbH, A-Klagenfurt

Mimotec SA, CH-Sion Soprod SA, CH-Les Reussilles

Steffan-Druck KG, A-Völkermarkt Ultra-Décolletage SA, CH-2738 Court

Tischlerei Erschen GmbH & Co. KG, A-Eberndorf

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©Habring Uhrentechnik OG

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9100 Völkermarkt

Österreich

Fon: +43-4232-51300

Fax: +43-4232-51300-4

[email protected]

www.habring2.com