A technical guide to PURESIL™ Elastomer Gel series.
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A technical guide to PURESIL™ Elastomer Gel series. www.silicones.elkem.com Puresil Silicones Delivering your potential
Transcript of A technical guide to PURESIL™ Elastomer Gel series.
A technical guide to PURESIL™ Elastomer Gel series.
www.silicones.elkem.com
Puresil
Sil iconesDeliveringyourpotential
Prod
uct N
ame
Func
tions
/Ben
efits
Phys
ical
Cha
ract
eris
tics
PUR
ESIL
™
Nam
eIN
CI N
ame
Spreadability
Softness
Reduce Tackiness
SPF Enhancer
Moisturizing Feel
Wrinkle Masking
Mattifying
Cushiony
Water Repellency
Vis
cosi
ty @
25
˚C (
Pa.s
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(%
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Dim
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Dim
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120
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120
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20
Elkem SiliconesPURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Technical Guide
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PURESIL™, innovative specialty silicones solutions.PURESIL™, a new brand created following the acquisition of South Korean Basel Chemie, demonstrates Elkem Silicones’s commitment to strengthening its position as a specialty silicone supplier to the personal care market.
Our newly extended product range is now composed of MIRASIL™ and PURESIL™ brands, with the PURESIL™ brand focus on innovation and technologies to help customers innovate and differentiate, while Mirasil™ brand continues as the foundation of the standard silicones to meet customers expectation of performance, reliability, and efficiency.
With its K-beauty root, PURESIL™ consist of a wide range of offerings from elastomer gels and powders with many choices of carrier fluids, blends and further modifications.
This technical guide is the first in series that is focused on a group of elastomer gels in various carrier fluids.
PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Selector GuideSuitable for skincare, sun care, color cosmetics and leave-in hair products, such as gel, cream, lotion, sticks, anhydrous or water-based formulations.
More dots stands for higher benefit ranking Blank cell means attribute not observed or not tested
• •
Experience the refinement, the PURESIL™ Elastomer Gel Series advantage: • Superior sensory enhancers, easy spread without balling effect, leaving skin silky, soft,
and smooth • Finer particle sizes and better film former • Even coverage with enhanced optical wrinkle masking and SPF boosting • Wide range of carriers with choices of different viscosity, volatility, compatibility to
cosmetic ingredients • Option for natural positioning through a sustainably sourced and naturally derived
carrier fluid • Rheology modifier, enable formulation textures.
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The PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Series Overview
PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Series offers a wide range of sensory and performance-enhancing ingredients designed for skin, hair, sun care and color cosmetics applications. The elastomer gels are crosslinked silicone polymer swollen in a variety of carrier fluids. They are clear to translucent gels or pastes depending on the degree of compatibility of the silicone elastomers and the carrier fluids. The elastomer blends are of delicate textures, easy to spread under light shear. They render a range of silky, soft, powdery skin feel, a matte finish with wrinkle masking effect, and other formulation and efficacy enhancing benefits.
The PURESIL™ Elastomers Gels Advantage
A look at the microstructure of the elastomer gels reveals that they are a collection of irregular polyhedral shaped micro-gel particles. The PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels are of 5-10 times smaller in size compared to the competitive dimethicone crosspolymer elastomer blend offerings, as shown in Figure 1. This means that at the same usage level, PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels would have hundreds of more particles compared to the benchmark. The PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels are designed to form a better film, provide even coverage, and deliver luxurious silky, soft sensory without balling effect and optical blurring for wrinkle masking.
The PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Range
PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Series offers an extensive range to help you innovate. The series consists of 11 variants with varying crosslinking density, elastomer content, the type of carriers such as silicone or organic, volatile or non-volatile. Among the offerings, there is an elastomer gel in a 100% naturally derived sugar cane according to the ISO16128, to enable customer meet the natural and green trend in the cosmetic industry. The PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Series is designed to help you deliver the formulation texture, specific sensory cues, optical wrinkle masking, SFP boosting, and many other benefits, to help you differentiate in the market place.
The elastomers are categorized into 5 different groups based on carriers: dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane (D5), cyclohexasiloxane (D6), isoparaffin, and organic oil. Additional choices of varying elastomer contents and viscosity of carrier fluids or combinations of other beauty-enhancing ingredients are offered within each group for additional features and benefits broaden the choices.
The PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels are suitable for many personal care applications such as skin, hair, sun care and color cosmetics. And they have the potential of enabling a wide range of formulation textures such as light and delicate gels to cream with various consistency including cream to mousse textures, etc. Some application examples are listed below.
Applications
Figure 1. Optical micrograph of elastomer gels: PURESIL™ vs. competitive product
PURESIL™ BSG-5040 Competitive Benchmark
Skin CareSkin Serum, Moisturizer, and Antiaging Products
Make-upConcealers, Foundations, Primer,
Blushes, Eyeshadows, and Lipsticks
Sun CareSun Protection (cream and lotions)
and Suntan Lotions
Hair CareLeave-in products
Elkem SiliconesPURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Technical Guide
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PURESIL™ Name INCI Name Crosspolymer
(%) Carrier(s) Key Features
Dimethicone Grade
BSG-200
Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
20 - 30 Non-volatile dimethicone
• Wrinkle masking• Longer playtime• Improve payout• Lasting skin feel• SPF boosting
BSG-200S
BSG-5041
D-308 5 - 10 High volatile dimethicone
• Light and delicate feel• Easy to spread• D5 alternative
BSG-650 DF
Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Phenyl Trimethicone (and ) Stearyl Dimethicone
5 - 10Volatile dimethiconePhenyl trimethiconeStearyl dimethicone
• Added shine• Lasting moisturizing feel• Organic compatibility
D5 Grade
BSG-250 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone (and)Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 20 - 30
Non-volatile dimethicone Volatile D5
• Soft yet powdery feel • Wrinkle masking
BSG-350 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 5 - 10
D5
• Powdery and smooth feel• No residue
BSG-5040 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 10 - 20
• Wrinkle masking• Powdery and smooth feel• Good thickening agent• No residue
D6 Grade
CHM01 Cyclohexasiloxane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 20 - 30 D6
• Nongreasy skin feel• Longer playtime compareto D5 carrier
Isoparaffin Grade
IPR02 Isododecane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 5 - 10 IDD • Organic compatibility
• Quick dry prevent smudge
Organic Oil Grade
ORG01 C13-15 Alkane (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer 10 - 20 Naturally derived
Alkane
• Natural and sustainable positioning, >80% derived from sugar cane • Organic compatibility• SPF boosting• Alternative to D5 and non-VOC
Table 1. PURESIL™ Elastomers Range and Selected Features
The details of the PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Series and their selected features are listed in Table 1.
How to Choose PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels
The PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Series is made by varying the carrier(s), the elastomer crosslinking density and the elastomer content. These inputs resulted in different volatility, viscosity, and textures of the elastomer gels. These variations lead to desired sensory attributes, properties to meet the product form and application requirements and the beauty-enhancing benefits. To choose the right product, one can cross-reference the physical characteristics, sensory profile and beauty enhancing features to match the needs and applications. Here are some considerations:
• In color cosmetics, the foundations require playtime to ensure an even coverage before drying whereas mascara requires fast drying time to prevent smudge, hence, volatility profile would be critical to match the application needs.
• The elastomer content is an important variable for the formulation texture and wrinkle masking effect, typically the higher the elastomer content, the higher the thickening and wrinkle masking effect.
• While all of the above would affect the sensory profile.
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PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Physical Characteristics
The physical characteristics of the elastomers can have a significant impact on the product type, end application, and the benefits. To make it easy for selection, a map was created to help you visualize the elastomer gel relative to each other base on its elastomer content and viscosity, as shown in Figure 2. The color code refers to the category of the carrier fluids.
100,000
5 10 15 20 25 30
200,000
300,000
400,000
Vis
cosi
ty, c
P
Silicone Crosspolymer, %
Dimethicone carrier or its combination carrier
Cyclopentasiloxane or its combination carrier
Cyclohexasiloxae carrier
Isopara�n carrier
Naturally derived alkane carrier
BSG-5040
BSG-250
BSG-350
D-308
650DF
BSG-5041
BSG-200
BSG-200S
CHM01
IPR02
ORG01
Figure 2. PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Series Crosspolymer Content and Viscosity Map
Figure 3. Volatility Profile of PURESIL® Elastomer Gels Series
0
0 100 200 300 400 500
20
40
60
80
100
Am
ooun
t rem
aini
ng, %
Time, mins
BSG-200
BSG-5041
BSG-200S
BSG-650DF
ORG01
CHM01
D-308
BSG-250
BSG-5040
BSG-350
The volatility is another important characteristic in cosmetic formulations. The volatility profiles were obtained by measuring % remaining weight (2g of product, 60˚C for 8 hr). As shown in Figure 3. Overall, PURESIL™ BSG-200, PURESIL™ BSG-200S, and PURESIL™ BSG-5041 are essentially non-volatile. PURESIL™ BSG-350 and BSG-5040 (D5 carrier) are quite volatile. It is worth noting that the most volatile elastomer gels in the series is PURESIL™ IPR02 (Isododecane carrier) which is not shown.
Elkem SiliconesPURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Technical Guide
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Fluid
SlipperyNo residue
Spreading
Fresh
GreasySticky
Smooth
Matte
10
8
6
4
2
0
BSG-5040
BSG-5041
D-308
BSG-650DF
ORG01
0.0
2.0
1.5
1.0
0.5
Hardness (N)
Cohesiveness
Springiness Adhesiveness (Nmm)
BSG-5040
BSG-5041
D-308
BSG-650DF
ORG01
Figure 4a. Sensory profiles of PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels (using EBI Touch)
Figure 4b. PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels texture profile by TPA
Sensory Profile
A descriptive sensory analysis, EBI Touch, developed by Ecole de Biology Industrielle (EBI), France, was used to determine the sensory profile. The sensory attributes such as spreadability, smoothness, stickiness, slipperiness, freshness, and shine/matte finish assessed on each silicone elastomer gel base on a set of definitions. An example of the sensory profiles is shown in Figure 4a.
A texture profile analyzer was used to characterize the elastomer gels as well. Several key parameters such hardness (soft/firm/hard texture), adhesiveness (stickiness to tackiness range), cohesiveness (resistance to spread or break), and springiness (plasticity to elasticity range) were measured to correlate to sensory attributes, such as easy to spread, tackiness and cushiony feel.
• In general, elastomers with volatile carrier deliver lighter, powdery feel with low or no residue (PURESIL™ BSG-5040) while the elastomers with nonvolatile carrier deliver softness, richness and lasting feel (PURESIL™ BSG-5041).
• The PURESIL™ D-308, an elastomer in volatile dimethicone, a viable alternative for elastomer in cyclopentasloxane (D5), showed delicate texture, great spreading with light and smooth sensory feel.
• The PURESIL™ ORG01, an elastomer in a naturally derived C13-15 Alkane through fermentation of sugar cane, showed quite similar sensory profile to PURESIL™ BSG-5040, an elastomer in D5. Despite the non-volatile nature of the C13-15 Alkane, its fast adsorption, light and enhanced slippery sensory feel made it an excellent sensory enhancer, and a good alternative to the elastomer in D5. Additional features of this elastomer are discussed in the following sections.
• PURESIL™ BSG-650DF, an elastomer gel with Phenyl Trimethicone and Stearyl Dimethicone showed added shine to the typical matte finish with elastomer gels and moisturized, luxuriously soft and slippery feel with the addition of stearyl dimethicone.
Examples of the sensory profile and texture profile are shown in Figures 4a. and 4b. respectively.
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The sensory rankings were summarized in the following table, along with the observation of volatility. See Table 2.
PURESIL™ Freshness Spreadability Smoothness Slipperiness Matte No Residue Volatility
Dimethicone Grade
BSG-200 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
BSG-200S • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
BSG-5041 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
D-308 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
BSG-650DF • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
D5 Grade
BSG-250 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
BSG-350 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
BSG-5040 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
D6 Grade
CHM01 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Organic Oil Grade
ORG 01 • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • •
Table 2. PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Sensory Attributes Ranking More dots stands for higher benefit ranking• •
PURESIL™ D-308
Elkem SiliconesPURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Technical Guide
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Beauty Enhancing Performance
The smaller particle size and better film-forming of the elastomers can lead to many performance advantages. One of them is the optical blurring for wrinkle masking.
Wrinkle maskingFigure 5. shows the wrinkle appearance of untreated skin, treated with PURESIL™ BSG-5040, and with the commercial benchmark. Skin treated with PURESIL™ BSG-5040 shows more effective wrinkle masking than the skin treated with the benchmark. The same trend is true with other PURESIL™ elastomers of similar elastomer content.
Figure 5. Wrinkle masking, a comparison of bare skin, treatment with PURESIL™ BSG-5040, and with the commercial benchmark.
Skin before application PURESIL™ BSG-5040 Commercial benchmark
Sunscreen SPF Boosting The sun protection is correlated to the film quality of the sunscreen. A discontinuous film could expose the skin without protection. Better film-forming and even coverage are critical factors in delivering better sun care. Several PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels have shown SPF boosting effect.
Figure 6. shows the in-vitro SPF boosting (UVA and UVB) with the addition of PURESIL™ BSG-200S. The testing formulation is a water-in-oil formulation containing both organic and physical sunscreens of a medium SPF (SPF 32). The in-vitro SPF boosts were observed when PURESIL™ BSG-200S was used at 3% and 4% respectively.
Control with 3% BSG-200S
with 4% BSG-200S
50
10
20
30
40
0
Invi
tro
SPF
Figure 6. SPF boosting effect of PURESIL™ BSG-200S in a medium SPF sunscreen
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Formulation Benefits
In addition to the above-mentioned benefits, the elastomer gels can act as a rheology modifier, replace those traditional tacky thickeners. Silicone elastomers can thicken both anhydrous formulations and the water-in-oil formulations. Figure 7. shows the thickening effect of elastomers to dimethicone fluid, 5cst, and Figure 8. shows the thickening effect of elastomer PURESIL™ BSG-200 and PURESIL™ BSG-5040 in a water-in-silicone emulsion. The thickening effect also enables formulators to create new formulation textures, adding another dimension in product innovation.
Figure 7. Thickening effect in anhydrous formulation Figure 8. Thickening water-in-silicone formulation
100,000
60% 70% 80% 90% 100%
200,000
300,000
400,000
500,000
% elastomer gels in Mirasil DM5
Vis
cosi
ty, c
P
ORG01
BSG-5040
BSG-5041
D-308
BSG-200S
CHM01
BSG-250
10,000
0 1.3 2.5 5 10
20,000
30,000
40,000
50,000
60,000
70,000
% elastomer gels in the formulation
BSG-5040
BSG-200
Vis
cosi
ty (
mPa
)
Natural and Sustainable Positioning
A noteworthy product in the PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Series is the PURESIL™ ORG01, an elastomer delivered in a naturally derived C13-15 Alkane. The C13-15 Alkane is derived from fermentation and hydrogenation of sustainably sourced sugarcane. The C13-15 Alkane is 100% naturally derived according to ISO16128. PURESIL™ ORG01 contains over 80% naturally derived ingredient.
PURESIL™ ORG01 has shown to have SPF boosting, lasting moisturizing effect and wrinkle blurring besides the lubricious and luxurious sensorial enhancement. It is an ideal ingredient that allows customers to differentiate through performance enhancement and natural, sustainable and green positioning.
Elkem SiliconesPURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Technical Guide
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Summary
The PURESIL™ Elastomer Gels Series is a line of superior performing cosmetic ingredients by design. They stand out from many similar market offerings as higher efficacy due to the much smaller particle size and better film-forming. They have demonstrated the ability to impart many benefits such as the luxurious sensory experience and the optical wrinkle burring, the two key benefits consumers want. The range also offers elastomer with over 80% naturally derived ingredient, to enable customers meet the growing consumer needs.
For additional questions, please contact your local Elkem Silicones representive or distribution partner. We are proud to bring you our innovative solutions with a personal touch.
Alternatives to Elastomers in Cyclomethicone Carriers
Silicone elastomers in the cyclopentasiloxane (D5) carrier are the first-generation silicone elastomers and are widely used in personal care products in the last 10 years. They are well known to provide the luxurious sensory, unique texture and many performance-enhancing efficacies as discussed above. However, starting January of 2020, the European Union put in force the restriction of D4, D5, D6 level in rinse-off products and has announced future similar restrictions in leave-on applications. In anticipation of the regulation and market trends, the PURESIL™ D-308 and PURESIL™ ORG01 are designed to serve as the close alternatives to the elastomers with D5 carrier, as described in the “sensory profile” section. Further, many of the elastomer offerings with noncyclics carriers can also deliver similar benefits if the volatility of the end product is not a must.
PURESIL™ BSG-200
PURESIL™ ORG01
Deliveringyourpotential
Si l icones
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Elkem SiliconesElkem Silicones is one of the world’s leading fullyintegrated silicone manufacturers with applicationsand research laboratories, production sites and salesoffices located around the globe.At Elkem Silicones, we’re more than just high quality silicone products and associated services. We are a team of professionals located around the globe ready to provide you with the service and performance you deserve with a personal touch.From technical support to customized formulations and regulatory support, Elkem Silicones has the people in place when and where you need them, committed to help you deliver your potential. Because we care!
The information contained in this document is given in good faith based on our current knowledge. It is only an indication and is in no way binding, particularly as regards infringement of or prejudice to third party rights through the use of our products. Elkem Silicones guarantees that its products comply with its sales specifications. This information must on no account be used as a substitute for necessary prior tests which alone can ensure that a product is suitable for given use. Determination of the suitability of product for the uses and applications contemplated by users and others shall be the sole responsibility of users. Users are responsible for ensuring compliance with local legislation and for obtaining the necessary certifications and authorizations. Users are requested to check that they are in possession of the latest version of this document and Elkem Silicones is at their disposal to supply any additional information.
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