A Scrapbook of Aspirational Cookery and other miscellany circa Salt Lake City 1856 to 2013:...

7/29/2019 A Scrapbook of Aspirational Cookery and other miscellany circa Salt Lake City 1856 to 2013: Pollinators, Recipes,

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A Scrapbook of Aspirational Cookeryand other miscellany circa Salt LakeCity1856 o 2013: Pollinators,Recipes,Movies,Restaurants, nd the MormonDiasporaBy Lara Candland

* GrandmaBeth and her Father, he beekeeperArthurAndersen,and hermother Lula SnowAndersen. 40th South and State Street, Salt Lake City, Utah19-to L9-

EXT. MIDWAY, UTAH--NOONA l-980's era f aux Victor ian f arm house sits on a wj-de spreadof acreage that incrudes Memorial hiI l , a small mountainwith an American flag and memorials to Midway veterans fromsix wars, a pioneer cabin and museum, a genuine tee pee,bounce houses, al fal fa f ields and a smarl menagerie of farmanimals.Fif ty relat ives gather beneath tents for the WHTTAKER AMTLYreunion. A hand named SKINNER sits on a buggy wait ing togive rides with two clydesdare horses. But the chi ldien in!h" family sit on the grass around GRANDMA ETH l-istening toher talk.

GRANDMABETHWelI , when I was f ive, chi ldren.LARAOh, fuck. I forgot

BROOK akes a bott le of paxil from her purse with herdaughter LrLY's name on i t . she shakes it and raises hereyebrows.BROOK

Good thing we have ou r worry

SKTNNERwait ing impat ient ly, adjust ingthe Clydesdales pul l ing sl ight ly at the

pi1Is.CUT TO:

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ffi \!l\ t e ,/ 1f ?g'. 1r_ /3tScottMerrill Whitaker, DisneyAnimator, Filmmak"r, prrr),.Vor of

Grandma Beth.

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Great GrandpaArthur W. Andersen harvesting his honey.

GreatGrandpaAndersen moved to SaltLake City from Emery,Utah n 19; after thedeathof his first wife, Lula SnowAndersen, following the biith of her l0tEnita. UisB9

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B{:fy,oLf?-f rvt . tTo find work? A newwife? To overcome is extreme riefanddepression?Grandma eth, is daughter ndmy maternal randmother, idn't know. Shewasfiveyearsold at the ime. "l t was agood hingwe moved o SaltLake,"shesaid.askedwhy."Well, hosesmall ownswere ust. . . heschool eachers t GraniteHigh n SaltLakemadesuremy big sisters ot rid o f theircountry wang.Thatwas a verygoodthing."When he Andersen amilymoved o SaltLakeCity,Emery,Utah,was not on theelectrical rid yet.GreatGrandpa ndersen adbeen aised n the UnitedOrder.GreatGrandpa nderden'satherwas rom Copenhagen.spent ime n thegardenwith Grandpa ndersenwhen wasa child.He edme sugar nappeas rom hevine. I still remember he aste, nd t wasa sweetgreen lavor hat rankswith myotherearliestoodmemory, bite of obsterdipped n butter. I don't remember imtalkingat all. I know hewas a manof fewwords.GreatGrandpa ndersenwas he UtahStateBeekeepernce.Hepenned bookcalledBeePreparedwith Honey: 40Delicous oneyRecipeslusA Guide o BackyardBeekeeping.Hewrites: As approachhe ageof 93, still ind pleasuren sitting by a beehivewatchinga streamof "take-offs" nd "Iqndings." ome f thebees re adenwithpollen, thershavebellies oundedwith illed honeysacks,henectarsoon o betransformednto sweetness.nly Godn His reatwisdomcouldhavecreated hemagicof thehive!2Grandpa ndersen idn'thave o wear a beesuit o work with the bees.Theydidn'tstinghim. Nor didhis secondwife,GreatGrandma lara, is partner n bees: Onetime,"Grandma ethsaid, Grandma larawasmovingbees rom the eaveso thehives.Shegentlyscoopedhemwith her barearms nto the container ndtransferredhem o the hives."Grandpa ndersenwrites hat he"hasbeen he beneficiary f the nutritionalbenefits f honey."Hediedat the ageof 99yearsold,havingneverbeenhospitalizedn his ife.

2Andersen,Arthur W, Bee Preparedwith Honey,pg. viii.


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rnheer,sand,80,s,"',W-{^ri:.ili::".l}*Grandma nd Grandpa ndersen's ouse melledike he GoodEarthHealth oodstore.Herbsand ruits were drying,homemadeinctureswere squeezed nmytongue rom ittle brown bottles, reendrinkswereblended, eanswere sprouting,Thesmellscaredme a ittle,bu t I loved hepieceof honeycombheygaveme ochew.Danish SweetSoup3

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2 cupsdriedprunes, oaked3 cups aisins1 cup driedapples7+ uphoney1-/B easpoon alt% cupminute apioca2 teaspoonsanilla4 tablespoonsutter2 sticks innamon r 2 teaspoonsroundciffiamon' *rCoverruitwith water or.ano',tuntilsoft. lfrd honry, tapioca, utter,vanilla,andcinnamon.Add enoughmorewater to make1 lz quartsof iquid. Serve ot or cold.Use ny dried ruit combination. $pricots nd peachesre agoodcolorcombination.r:.i;

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Ot David candland"marriedMary Janewebbon october 29,"--J,/-'A,.t /-t.;l4 _r- 4#g j

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1852. She died three months later. He then married Lucy Jones on-*- *oY April g, 1853 and Bertha Mary King on December 25, 1854. He.d)divorced both women on April 9, 1855 stating that "my wives Lucy, r?x1_- and Beftha becameso possessedof evil as to demand a biII of' diror""ment." He married Anne Woorlhouseon November 7, 1855.

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6) I was the best tatter of any girl7) Willard and I used o ride "Thein school.Bamberger"l rom Ogden o SaltLake City.

"TheBamberger,"938

L TheBambergerElectric Railway wasbuilt under the eadershipof SimonBamberger,pioneer Utahcoal-mineoperator and railroad entrepreneur.Bambergerprojected he Ogden-Salt ake City ine as asteam ine as early as 1891;and in L908 Ogdenwas connected o Salt Lake City on what was known asthe Bamberger.The ine wqs electrifiedon 28 May 1910 and renamed the Bamberger ElectricRailway.The business f the line included commuter and shopper ravel betweenOgdenand Salt Lake City aswell asheavysummer traffic to Lagoon resort. Bambergerhad developedLagoon at Farmington tocompetewith the Denver and Rio Grande's esort, LakePark, on the shore ofthe Great Sqlt Lake. n1908 he Bamberger had ive daily trains running both directions.The Ogdendepot of the Bambergerwas ocqted on Lincoln Avenueust north of 24th Street.On 7 May 1918 the Ogdenstation, car barn, qndsomeof thepassengerequipment were destroyedby ire. Replacement quipment was dfficult to obtainuntil the end of World Wqr L The advantage heBamberger had over the UnionPaciftc ine rom Ogdento Sqlt Lake City was that it made stops at most of the small townson the way, while the UP rains didnot normally stop betweenOgdenand SaltLake City. n 1914 the electrified Utah-ldahoCentral wasestablished,connecting Ogden with Preston, Idaho. A branch line of this road was extended to PlainCity.(Richard C.Roberts & Richard W.Sadler, TheHistory of Weber County)

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When my mother, Wendy Whitaker Candland, ecameengaged o my father,DavidNoelCandland,Sr.,my grandmother was disdainful. My mother was born inWashingtonD.C. nd raised n Los Angeles.Shespenther teenaged ears n Utah,and graduated rom Brigham YoungUniversity,spendingabout a total of 10 yearsresiding n the BeehiveState. GrandmaEvawas born and raised n Utah n a tinyfarming hamlet. Shemoved to WashingtonD.C. o fi nd a husband,anotherambitious arm boy, a sheepherder, rom Mt. Pleasant,Utah attending aw schoolatGeorgeWashington.

Nonetheless, hewas dismayed hat her son,my father,who grew up in ChevyChase,Maryland,was marrying a "Utahgirl." Shemade frequent reference oexpressions, ronunciations,and habits my mother had that were "Utah."GrandmaEva had worked hard to breed out the farm, o become societv".She ovedbridge and uncheons.0ne of her uncheon ecipes, rom her handmaderecipebook,Xeroxedand published n 1990 by her daughter,Valorie CandlandRiggs or a family Christmasgift, the year my daughter,he r namesake,EvaSnowAsplund,was born, and the year before she died,was this:Bing Cherry Salad(Grandmagot this one rom BessTruman)1- g can bing cherries2 pkgscream cheese1 pkg cherry ellot'prig time efuo ,usejuice of cherriesand ald water to make2 cups.Heat riquid'whenartrvet aa n"irirr."M?k?t^, ritiwitiirl!:::";:::!:?rr::"i:;,';,yl,Ixf,[r,:::;,i:;H;:,1;!,;:;;:;;;,1":;,:;;e,e, u,her


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IOI DavidCandland, urveyor,The GlobeRestaurant nd Bakery,Purportedly the first restaurant/saloon in SaltLake City. Circa 1856.At the suggestionnd under he Directionopened Saloon n SouthMain. ThiswasInstitution.

of BrighamYoung,DavidCandlandpartof the Zion'sCooperative ercantile

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A review in Harper'sMagazine n 1B5Bby an "Easterner"was scathingand givesinsight nto tensionsbetween Mormons and Gentilesat the time. The anonymouswriter attacksDavid Candland's ersonand charactermost vociferously,saying:That man was one David Candland,a little speckof a ellow, got up in the neotestpossible rim, with his eyeseternctlly tvvitching, twitching, twitching. I might hereremark that I have neveryet seena Mormon but that something ailed hiseyes.Theyare sunkenor dark or ghastly or glaring. There s certainlysomemonio in all Mormonseyes;none of them can lookyou straight ar steadily n the ace.Well, o return to Candland.He is a man of some note among the nativeshere; he hasbeena missionary,a preqcher,a theater manager and a barber. He never tald me hehad beenu barber (and he never had been) but that is a self evident act, for he nevercauld have obtained his manners any where else han in u barber shop. Well, our hosthassevenwives(poor creotures! or he dan't seemcapacitated o more than half-attend to one) but they have neverbeenseenwithin a half mile af the saloan while thechivalric Gentileswere around; not evenso much as one of their skirts wos ever seen.Haplessbeings!. .4

ia From Harperb lrl/eek/y) There s no olherbur/dng in the Terrilo4t which wi// reman rmpressed ,-." it*so uivfd/y upon t/te memory of Genfu/eswho are, or have been, here lhis year as Cand/andb :) :\Saloon. " . . Fora /ong lime lhal was lhe on/y house in a// Sa/l Lake City where a man who was so \r \-..wicked as lo be a Genti/e cou/d obtan a moulhfu/ lo eal. I \Erigham (Young) has near/y a// lhe money in the Ternto4t and he a/ways has his eyes open to -ft S\eve4/ oppolfunity formakng money even though it be in a sma/l way" So, when lhe Gentr/es ,, rr'tr .jbegan lo f/ock m ltere lhrs sprng he took lhis sa/oon andput a man in rt to feed us at exorbrtant Sprices, at lhe same lrme forbddng evelyone e/se from giv/ng us faod orshe/ler .i, .Thal man was one David Candland, a /ftl/e speck of a fe//oul got up in lhe neatesl possrb/e tnm, f - i"wlh his eyes elerna//y twiching, lwifching, lwrlchng. / migltt here rema* lhal / ltave neveryel \ i, tseen a Mormon but thal somethng aled hrs eyes. Theyare sunken ordark orghast/y org/arng. ,\, ry BTheres certan/y some manrb n a// Mormons eyos,' none af them can look yoi strarghl or slead//y:'''* i (n the face. h' _ " iIrl/e4 lo relurn to Cand/and. He is a man of some nole anong the nalives here,' he has been a :: '-' f-.r\ im/ssnna4/, apreache4 a lhealer manager and a barber He never to/d me he had been a barber 's- !(and he never had been) but lhal ts a se/f ewdent facl for he never cou/d have obtaned hrs i'' '" i. "*mannersanywheree/selhannabarbershap ll/e//,ourhoslhassevenwives(poorcreatures/ ,\ S* l\for he don! seem capacilaled lo more lhan halfallend lo one) bul they have never been seen R"' i 1 't71"; '" t/J

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wlhn a ha/f mi/e of lhe sa/oon whr/e the chiva/ric Genti/es were around'no! even so much as orteaf their skrtts was ever seen. Hap/ess beings/ . . .The custom was lo pay ourbr// eve4t Salurday, bul no one, when he wenl la sett/e his brL cou/deyer le// whal if would amount fo. Someltmes we were charged a do//ar and a ha/f a day, twodo//arsa day, a// rn lhe same week No one ever understood malhelmalics enough to make oulthe bi/l bul fhe very accommadating and ve4tgent/eman/y /and/ord. Eestdes lltis, he had a ve4tsmilng way of /eaving hmself indebled lo hrspalrons lo lhe sma// amounl of a ha/f do//ar eve4tSafurday, under lhe p/ea lhal "change was so vety scalce,' lhat he cou/d nol make change, etc,which sna// debl wou/d a/wayspersistenl/y be forgolfen before lhe ensuing Salurday . . . "Ourpious, fheatnba/ hosl did nol nform us how high or how much he rarsed the pnbe of our dar/ysubsslence,"but he began ear/y n lhe day to see how much his guests wou/d bear Pulting on hismosl accommodaling barbersmtle, he came along lo a "kntght of lhe gur//(newspaperman)" whowas correspondng wil/t one of your metropo/itan conlemporaries, and, taking him by the arm,wa/ked otf a shott dklance, lhen said.' "l donTknow how rt ts wrthyou genl/emen of lhe press. /fyou canT afford to pay ll why /1usl lhoughl / would te//you now so you need not be embarrassedor dissatrsfr'edbrme-by. "Theparty lo whom lhis address was so knd/y made had been round lo severa/ p/aces in lhewor/d and doubl/ess belteved thal he was one of the greal propose of this mundane spheroid, sahe f/ew into a passion al our obeisanl /and/ard for darng to presume, or even lhnk, lhal he hadnol money enough lo pay three do//ars a day for his board. Yes,he had enough money to payfhree do//arsa day for ht's board and lo buy Cand/and, with his enltTesa/oon./nslead of getlng angry on his part, our hosl seemed much p/eased wth this outbursl of sprnlfrom lhe "gent/eman af lhe press" for he fe/t it was satrsfacloryproof that lwenty-one do//ars aweek for board wau/d be sload. So hrs surpnse and drsappointmenl may be magned when, atnoon, he found lhat near/y one srde of lhe lab/e had desefted and commenced keepngbache/orb qualers ha//. Down wenl hs board lo two do/lars and a ha/f a day nstanl/y SII/Imany a p/easant mea/ was eaten at Cand/and'sby l?lany a hung4t Genlr/e.lt was ve4t amusing to beho/d lhe scene lhal fo//owed fhe rngrng of the fnsl be// for breakfast alCand/and s. Genlt/es n every knd of dress or undress could be seen evo/vmg lhemse/ves frameve4t imaginab/e place - from carrages, from under hees, fi'om off the p/aza, from off lhesidewa/ks and from oul of lhe gardens - a// making thetr way lo lhe gutler to wash. To wash in thegutler? Yes, o wash in the guller. . . /t ls beaultful c/ear waler from its ongna/ course and sentlumb/ng a/ong down eihersrde of a// the streels lhal run nodh and soulh. Thepeap/e oblarn lheirwaler out of lhese gulter-brooks, which are /rkewbe used for irrigating purposes" A// the gardensn the crty have lo be irngaled, for wilhoul inrgalrbn lhey wou/d be nolhing but a barren bed ofsand. The same rs lrue of a// lhe arable /and in the valley.1.4/e//, hen lhe Genfr/eshave craw/ed oul from their holes, each takes hrs soap, towel comb,toofh-brush, and a sma//pocket laokng-g/ass and makes his tolel at the guller: These ilt/earttb/es are mosl necessa?/ ones to us voyagers n lhese barbanb regbns,' so after beng used,they are carefu//y ro//ed up and deposited n saddle bags or trunks. Each person lhen slraps trphts b/ankets or bedding' after which and breakfast he rs ready lo lrave/ sixly or erghly mlesdurng lhe day, or lo /ive /ying around /oose ouldoors . . .

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After researching he matter at some ength, his recipe or OysterSoupseems ike itwould be close o the one servedat the Globe:OYSTERSOUP(Mrs.Lincoln's Boston CookBook,1BB4)

1 quart oysters2 tab Iespoonful s l o ur.1 pint milkSalt to taste.L tablespoonfulbutter.1/2 saltspoonful pepper.Put the milk on to boil in the doubleboiler, whileyou prepare the oysters.Placea colander over a pan.Put the oysters n a large bowl, and pour over them onecup of water. Take up each oyster with the tngers, to make sure no piecesof shelladhere o it, and drain in the colander.Strain the oyster iquor, which has drainedfrom the colander, hrough the inest strainer.Put it on to boil. Remove he scum,and when clearput in the oysters.Let them simmer,but not boil, until they begin to grow plump and the edges o curl orseparate.Strain the liquor into the milk, and put the oysterswhere they will keep hot, but notcook.

Thicken he milkwith the butter and lour, which have been cooked ogether;add saltand pepper to taste (the amount of salt dependingupon the saltnessof the oysters).Boil ive minutes;add the oystersand serveat once.This eceiptmay be varied by boiling one cup of tne choppedcelery and a smallslice of onion with the milk ten minutes; hen straining and thickening it with half acupofpowdered cracker. Add the butter, the seasoning, nd the parboiled oysters.Serveat once.

)yster Stew s made ike oyster soup,without the thickening.

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I EvaFontellaMarriott candlandIf I had my own restaurant, t would be a crossbetween original |oe's n SanFrancisco,he Little America Coffee hop n SaltLakeCity,with just a touch ofFrenchLaundry.The seatingwould consist of burgundy eatherbanquetres.Lighting dim, servers nsexy uxedoes.You would be able o ge t the richestmilkshake n town, the kindwhere the cream coats he roof of your mouth, meatloafmadewith MorganValleyLamb,and chopswith a foragedrose hip sauce.Something ocal,somethingAmericana, omething oraged.If I had 5 lives,one of them would be ived as an opera singer,one asa novelist,oneas ilm director and screenwriter,one as a poet,and one asa restaurateur. I hatethat I only have one ife, splintered nto at least ive tributaries.As far as I know, Little America s the only place n Salt LakeCity where you cangetliver and onions,or a hot roast beef sandwich.Grandma Eva's Hot Roast Beef Sandwich RecipeOr"Favorite 'Lefiover' Snack or Teenagers"Leftover oastbeef, liced hinMashed otatoesGravyHeatpotatoes ndgravyandmeat. Placea sliceof meaton a pieceof bread,a scoop fmashed otatoes ext o it and top the wholewithgravy.

One ime herewasa somewhat ostile akeover.LittleAmerica oughtout aMarriott,and ookall the recipes.The ecipes riginatedromthe A & W HotShoppes,tartedby AliceandWillardMarriott.Therewerehard eelings,my fathertoldme.My ather old me herewas a full timecook n the Marriott estkitchen,Mrs._."Shewas hereeveryday or _ years, e old me.Hermeticulous ndobsessiveand-written otesarehousedn the MarriottLibraryspecial ollections,n binders.


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The oodat the LittleAmerica offee hop s asplainanddelicious scanbe. Thed6cor s 80'speachymauve. usually rder he rainbow rout.There's lmostno place likebetter. don'tknow f it'snostalgia, r ust delicious.Little America's Bran MuffinsBranmff insIfyouonlyhavemuffin ins hatwill hold12mffins,youwill either eedomakehemffins in batches r cut his ecipenhalf.Glaze1, up 2 sticks) nsalted utter,meltedor B ouncesrans at-freeshortening3/4 cupsplus1 tablespoonirmly packed oldenbrownsugarL/2 cupplus2 tablespoansranulated ugarDashsalt2 tablespoons ll-purposeflour1 1/2 tablespoonsmaple extract1/B cup hot water1/2 cup choppedwalnutsBatter1 1/2 cupsplus 3 tablespoons ranulated sugar2 1"/4plus2 tablespoonsall-purposeflour2 cupsgolden rqisinsL scant cup choppeddates3 cupsbranflakesL teaspoonbaking powderL teaspoonbaking saduDashsalt3 whole eggsL cupbuttermilkL L/8 cup whole milk4 tablespoons1/2 stick) melted unsaltedbutterHeat the oven to 375 degrees.For theglaze, n q small bowl, mix togetherall the ingredients,except hewalnuts, o orm q smoothpaste.With a pastry brush,brush the insldeof themffin cupswith theglaze.Sprinkle 1 teaspoonof the walnuts in the bottom ofeach mffin cup.For the batter, n a large bowl, mix all the mffin ingredients ogetherand pourthe batter into each cup. Bake the muffins until a toothpick fnserted n the

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qL0fs"L't .r^*l^^r;I vtr\uLw wYEVv--\NSO' IScottMerrill WhitakerlnISTT I attended screening t theLDS hurchofficebuildingon- in SaltLakeCityof a film produced y the LDS hurch alledWhere esusWalked.This ilm was*titt.n by my Grandpa cott,whowason ocationn theHolyLandwhenhe wasstrickenll andhad o return o the states'GrandpaScott earned ilm making n the Navy,workeda storysketchartist forDisney tudio creatinghe character f Dopeyn SnowWhiteand heSevenDwarves)nd henmoved o Utah o work with his brothersat the BrighamYoungUniversityMotionpicturestudiowherehewasa storyeditor,headof thewritingdepartment, nactoranddirector.Heparticipatedhemakingof over100 ilmsatByU,andhismostwell-knownpieceofwork is probablyMQn's earchforHappiness,whichhe wrote. The ilm is known or it's magery nd he useof techniquesromFrenchNouveau inema.He requentlymetwith "thebrethren" n SaltLakeCityLDS hurchheadquarterswhofrustratinglymadehim change cene ftersceneo be n compliance ithchurchdoctrineand hepropagandat wished o put forth n its films'TheWhitakerbrotherswerequitea team.Artists,musicians,omedians,ilmmakers.Togetherhey came o BYU romHollywood. n thesummershey an heHomesteadesort n Midway,Utah, o supplementhe meagerBYU alary a paystub found n Grandpa cott's aper n theL.TomPerrySpecial ollections t BYUshows hat n 1975hemadea salaryof $8,000.00 eryear rom BYU.With thissalary, ewasraisingsixchildrenandpayinga tenpercent ithe on hisgrossincome.JThe esorthas estaurants,ot springs, craterwhereyoucanswim,horse ides,andGrandpa cottwas n charge f evening ntertainment. eplayedagamewithguests alled Stump he chump." n thisgame, uestswere nvited o make womarkson a argesheetof paper, ndGrandpa cott ad o makea cartoonout of themarkings.Apparently, ewasneverstumped'HomesteadGooseberrY ie ReciPe

Theold-timers f Midwayweren'thappy.My mother emembers raffition hesidewalk aying,Whitakers, oback o Hollywood."She emembershe ittleSwissman,-BrotherKohler, earing is estimonyn sacramentmeeting bout he


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rrr c :13 e, crrt4 &t-&orneC ?yLBSllouts ur'allS efan,is',bme-., sefore; rcoming '.to BYIJ Mt' iWhltrakorl was a story sketch 'artist,,,,for RKO Studios, story artiet forWalrt Disney St'ud,i'o,s,itle dosignorfor 20th Century Fbx and Produc'tion dceigner at Eagle Lion Stu'dios. He also wss e motion Picturewtirter end an'imdtor for the U. S.

Navy for'*tree years during VorldVar II .At BYU he served sa slhryed'irtor, ead of the wrltin'g.depant-ment, anirna'lor, directur of manyfilms, andrinstrusfor of''the,soreen-'writring class of 'the Communica-, tions Departrnen't, n addition, hewrdte scripts which have been. used on ntritihnwide televi'si'on.sucha1"D:,a{rSUey Day,::. -.

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#Af,ter ten years ,qs a wrlter andartist in Hdl'h.wuod, he joinod thestaff of the BYU Motion Piorure

Pmduction Departmen't in 1954,where hio br6pher, Weuel O. Whit-aker, was direet'or. Since .then hehas pat'ticripated in r*re pnod,uctionof l4ore tharn 100 {ilms. Th,ree forhiih he wrote ,scripts have beenseen by millione of viewers -!s Searc,h for" Happiness,t'ws of Heaven," and ttAnd

sc6ttM. Whitoker

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"damnedWhitakers."Hewasescortedrom he meeting y two members f thebishopric.Aunt Bonnie aidhe was ifted, ickingandscreaming,rom thepodium.She emembers im being ifted off hegroundby the brethrenandhis ittle feetkicking.My motherput herself hroughBYUon he moneysheearnedwaitressing t theHomestead. he aved nough o pay or a semester broadn Switzerland swell.She aidAunt Marti ran he homestead itchenwith an ron fist and hat he oodwas mpeccable.Grandpa cott'sather,O,A.Whitaker,wasa corpulentman. Hewas oftenseenwitha springonion n onehandanda saltshakern the other. Hewasheard o say hathe'dnevermet a mealhe didn't ike. Hiswife,Grandma laraWhitaker,wasknownfor her cooking.Lemonmeringue ies, ppledumplings, ndchicken nddumplings re he dishes 'veheardaboutagain ndagain.Shewasproudof hercooking.She ometimes ommented n otherwomen's ooking,Yes, he's prettygoodcook,but shecan't lavor ike me." I secretly hink I gotmy gift with flavorfrom her.GrandmaClara'sLemon MeringuePie RecipeGrandma Clara'sApple Dumpling RecipeGrandmaClara's Chicken and Dumpling RecipeWhenGrandpaScottwent to the Holy Land o makeWhere esusWalked, e wasn'tfeelingwell,but he didn't'visit he doctor, earing hat he wouldn'tbe allowed otravel o work on the film he houghtof asa pinnacle f hiscareer.Hemade t to the Holy Land.Hehad o leave n the middleof shootingwhenhebecameoo ll to stay.Whenhe waschanging lanesn Chicago,e was oo weak omake t to his nextplane.A strangern the airporthelped im get o thegate.Whenhegothome,he was diagnosed ith coloncancer nddiedsix months ater.My uncleTom ravelled o Mexicoo buy marijuanaor him to use o ease ispainandnausea.I saw he ilm when was en at the churchofficebuildingat a special creeninghonoringGrandpa cott. rememberhe serious church" oice, beautiful,sonorous arration racing he ife ofJesushroughout he HolyLand. don'tremembermuchelseabout he film.My favorite ilm of Grandpa'ss Men'sSearchor Happiness. ere'swhat Wikipediasavs bout t:


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Man's Search or Happtness s a 1S-minuteilmproducedby TheChurchof JesusChristof Latter-daySaints. t explains he roleof the PtanofSalvationn our lives,withquestionsike "Whoam l?", "Wheredid I comefrom?",and "Wheream I going?"beingexplored.This ilm wasproducedby the BYUMotionPictureStudio or the MormonPavilionat the 1964world'sFair n New York,trl nd wasviewedby overfivemittionpeople,tzlmafiyof whomwerenot LDS. t was aterremade nJapaneseor Expo '70 n Japan,and again n l gBT n English.The1987 emake f t really ucks. t playednthe emple quareheatreoryears,and my husbandhas he script memorized,as he showed t to hisinvestigatorson his mission so many times.

* GrandmaBethGrandma ethgraduatedrom HighSchool t 16 andwent to live with her sistersnLosAngeles. we had o leaveassoonaswe graduated,"hesaid.Therewasn'tenoughoom n the house or fifteenchildren.ShemetGrandpa cott n the BeverlyHillsWilshireWard. Hewason a datewith another irl. Sheworkedasa secretaryandboughta ife nsurance olicyon herself."Can ou imagine?" hesaid, uying ife nsurance henyou're18? Sheparlayedher nsurance,later n, nto realestatenvestment ndamassed ot of wealth aterin life. Shehadbusiness cumen, ut wassomodest hatno oneeverknew t. WhenGrandpa cottdiedat 62,shemarriedGrandpaWoodyayear ater. No oneunderstood. hehasher own private hing. She ivesus clues o it ,but nota ot ofdirect nformation.My mom old me shehadpanicattacks ndwouldgo out for hours-long alks.Mymomwould"trot alongbehindher,"assheputs ! afraid hat her mothermightnotreturnhome.Though know shewas n psychoanalysisor years, nd hat when hedoctorprescribedranquilizersor her,Grandpa cottmade he pharmacistill thescripwith sugarpills.Healso nsistedhat shestayvery slim. I think shewasbulimic, romthe stateofher teethnow.


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GrandmaBeth'sPlum PuddingGrandmaBeth's Carrot PuddingMuchof this I learneda fewyears, fterher oneandonlyhospitalizationorappendicitis t theageof 90,andwhile shewasopening p to me on account f herpainpills.,l.t


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Kayand I weresent o St.GeorgeTo ivewith this aunt.Itwas veryhardAtfiveyearsoldTobearbeing eparatedFrom he amily.By he endofthe school earThisaunt wasn'tverykind,AndwehadagrandmotherWho ivednextdoor,butShenevercame o visit.Canyoumagine?&my auntkept hemoneyfor our keep n a tea cupatop he cebox.I could ellfrom the ook0n her aceWheneverShedipped nto it,That twesn'tReally nough.Spring n St GeorgeIs hot. AII thegirls


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WoreankletswhenspringCame, ut onlyhadLong,hol sratchywoolenSocks.So askedmy aunt f shecouldBy mesomeanklesocks.Sheustfrowned and said"yournewMotherwill buyyou somewhen ouGethome."So wore woolensocksall spring.Butthis storyHasa happyending,children,Because hen got home,Guess hat the irst thing wasThat said o GrandmaClara?No,not "Hello"or "Howdoyou do!"But"Can haveanklesocks?"Sheust laughed nd said0fcourse.So hingsgotbetter.


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\\ \ " ,V-gsott Hhltaker11 Eaer 2S50 HorthPr.elttsr Uteb rrs JE"HT*,-:-.qHB

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t GrandmaEvaFontellaMarriott candlandWell, according o cousinMatt, there'smore to the story than she old us. Accordingto what cousinMatt told my brother David,GrandpaHarold Arthur Candlandwasthe real star ofthe storv.I take this as.Well,you know how people are about men andwomen.GrandmaEvawas a party girl (l heard.) Shewas living in LosAngelesand engagedto a Jewishman. The family couldn't have his, so her brother Bill cameand got he rand movedher to Washington D.C. o marry his friend Harold Candland.WhenGrandpaHarold died and early death n1962, CousinMatt sayshe wrote in hisjournal, "Today I buried my best friend, Harold Candland."Haroldworked asgeneral counsel or the Marriott corporation,but the only thingmy father told me about t was that GrandpaHarold told him, "Neverwork foranotherman. Always be your own boss."As the story comesout, in fits and starts,heresayand investigationdone by theintrepid Matt Candlandwho wants to write a book but is being discouraged romexposingcertain facts."Thehappiestday of my life was when GrandpaHarry proposed o me," she said ome many times. According o Matt, he days hat followed weren't ashappy.GrandpaHarold had had a previous engagement swell. And there was a neardivorce,and Grandmawanted to be in town, where the actionwas. Instead,GrandpaHarold bought a house or them way out in the suburbs,exurbs maybeeven,on a pieceof acerage hat my father and his naughty brothers had to clear oftrees.My father doesn't remember a log except that he was frequently sent away: everysummer o Aunt Helen CandlandStark's arm in Delaware, o live with his brother inChicago,o military school. He doesn'tknow why, or won't say,and his silenceclearlyspeaksof an unhappy family."My friends calledher speedybecause healwayskept he r pedal to the medal."He said of GrandmaEva. I know she ook a lot of diet pills, oo .My mom witnessedher trying to brown a frozen oast n her fur coat because hewas ate getting home to prepare dinner. My own mom was never ate with dinner.


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I know she oved parties,clothes,chocolate, nd she ook me to SanFrancisco or my16tt'birthday.On Saturdaysmy dad took the bus to the moviesall day. Grandmamade him fudgeon a marble slab and he carried a bag of applesand fudge o the movie.Grandma Eva's Fudge RecipeAfter he died, Uncle Bill took him under his wing, and my dad worked for theMarriotts for years,starting out by transporting prisoners o work in food serviceatthe airport. He brought home escargot, heese, nd chocolate rom the airlines. Foryears,my "sick blanket" was the scratchygray PanAm airlines blanket.But my Dad wanted to be his own man,so eventually,he startedhis ownrestaurants.Now, at 77,he wants to start a new concept n a new location.It will never be as successful s Uncle Bill's restaurant.***20L3Now, SaltLakeCity s my New York City.I didn't grow up in Utah,but it feels ike I did.I moved o Manhattanwhen I was twenty, and I was never coming back going oshrug off the mountains, and the polygamists,and all that.Turns out its just not that easy. To take the girl out of Utah,or the Utah out of thegirl.


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A Scrapbook of Aspirational Cookery and other miscellany circa Salt Lake City 1856 to 2013:...

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Transcript of A Scrapbook of Aspirational Cookery and other miscellany circa Salt Lake City 1856 to 2013:...