A London Tale of Gin and Sin

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GIN & GENEVER MIXXIT WITH MIXXIT WITH

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A London Tale of Gin and Sin Tales of the Cocktail, 2014 By: Wayne Collins, John Clay, Amanda Humphrey and David Miles

Transcript of A London Tale of Gin and Sin

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GIN & GENEVERM I X X I T W I T HM I X X I T W I T H

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2N MIXXIT WITH GIN & GENEVER

“The air! Isn’t it wonderful?”

“Yeah, it’s like a shot of gin.It makes your blood race, yourface numb and your spirits soar.”Katherine Hepburn and Humphrey BogartThe African Queen, 1951

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…with Gin & Genever

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Gin and genever perhaps have a more chequered historythan any other spirit: from the earliest medicinal uses by 12th century Italian monks via ‘Dutch Courage’ and ‘Gin Lane’ to golf club respectability and finallyrebirth as a cool cocktail spirit in the 1990s.

Gin’s history links juniper spirits with every aspect of thehuman experience: tragedy, squalor, snobbery and valour.From its early manifestation in medieval juniper-based plaguecures, it arrived on our shores during the thirty years war,when British soldiers would drink ‘Dutch Courage’ before goinginto battle.

Decades later, it faced the moral outrage of Hogarth’s ‘Gin Lane’ and went on to build a reputation as ‘Mother’s Ruin’,then became set in its ways as the tipple of choice in the golfclubs of Middle England before cutting through again inpopularity as the burgeoning bar scene looked for the perfectbase spirit.

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Gin’s legacy now seems to be somewhat timeless but thistruly European spirit has an intriguing rags to riches story.After the experiments of the early Benedictine monks, in theearly 16th century brandy based juniper spirit called‘schinkenhágen’ was produced in what is now Germany.

It wasn’t until the mid 17th century that a Dutch Professor of medicine, Franciscus Sylvius de la Boe of Lieden Universitypioneered the art of distilling grain spirit with juniper tocreate ‘eau-de-vie-de-genievre’, a tonic then believed to curekidney problems.

The spirit we know today as gin derived from the juniperflavoured malt wine spirit born in Holland and was introducedto us by William of Orange when he took to the throne ofEngland in 1688. He began to ban imported brandies andwines from France and, as whiskies were relatively unknownoutside Scotland and Ireland, he began to encourage theproduction of genever in its local form made from grainalcohol that was soon to be corrupted to ‘gin’. Distilling ofEnglish gin then began around various docks throughout thecountry such as London, Plymouth, Bristol and Liverpool.

Hogarth’s ‘Gin Lane’

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In England in the early part of the18th century, low taxes led to widespreaddistilling of cheap grain alcohol, resultingin many back street distilleries operatingin London slums. Street vendors beganpeddling in cheap gin flavoured withlethal ingredients, with many of London’shouses becoming ‘gin shops’. This causedwidespread drunkenness and resulted in a major alcohol problem amongst thepoor where babies were often born withdeformities earning gin the nickname of ‘Mother’s Ruin’.

From the 1740s a series of gin actswere passed by Parliament to control the level of drunkenness by restricting the production and vending of gin. (This is one of the reasons why gindistilleries today cannot produce their own grain spirit.) These acts gave rise to a return to beer consumption, and the rise of the classic British pub.

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By the 1830s and the introduction of continuousdistillation, the government once again permitted the free trading of gin by allowing gin distillers to control theproduction of grain spirit accompanied by a healthy tax. This led to the distillers competing with pubs and saw the birth of opulent establishments known as ‘Gin Palaces’.Charles Dickens described these palaces as “perfectly dazzlingwhen contrasted with the darkness and dirt we have just left…”. Gin quickly became both acceptable and fashionable againand became known by Cockney Londoners as ‘Mother’s Milk’ or ‘Parliamentary Brandy’.

As gin rose from the gutter to become the sophisticatedtipple of British aristocracy it also became associated, alongsiderum, as a drink of the Royal Navy. Naval Officers often mixedit with bitters to make ‘Pink Gin’ which was taken to settleseasickness.

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‘Dutch Courage’, ‘Mother’s Ruin’, ‘Mother’s Milk’…the history of gin and genever is a colourful, thought-provoking account of social change and advancingtechnology through the years.

Gin & Genever timeline

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1552‘Constelijck DistilleerBoek’ by PhilippusHermannimentions “genever aqua vitae”referring togenever-infusedbrandy.

1269First major mention of juniper-basedhealth related tonicsand medicines in aDutch publication‘Der Naturen Bloeme’ by Jacob van Maerlantte Damme.

1575Bols family,then named‘Bulsius’ arrivein Amsterdam,having learneddistilling inCologne.

Juniper King Haakon of Norway Vlad the Impaler Lucas Bols

1263The Battle of Largs- King AlexanderIII of Scotlanddefeats the Vikingarmada of KingHaakon IV ofNorway.

1337The HundredYears’ Warbegins asEdward III ofEngland laysclaim to theFrench throne.

1476Vlad III, Prince ofWallachia dies.More commonlyknown as Vlad theImpaler, he was theinspiration forBram Stoker’snovel ‘Dracula’.

1557The ‘Equals’ sign is invented by WelshmathematicianRobert Recorde.

1587At FotheringhayCastle inEngland, Mary,Queen of Scotsis beheaded.

1585The Spanishconquest of theAztecs in SouthAmerica bringsmany interestingfoodstuffs backto Europe,includingchocolate.

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1602The Dutch East India Company founded.Lucas Bols becomes a preferred supplier toits inner circle, ‘The Seventeen Gentlemen’,and also gets first crack at all the new herbs and spices flooding back to Europe.The sailors and officers of the companyspread genever all around the globe,receiving daily half-pint rations of geneverin a specially measured pewter cup.

1646Lucas Bols gets a licenceto distil spiritsin the city ofAmsterdam.

Genever Dutch East India Company Charles I Bols Lootsje

1599The GlobeTheatre, mostfamouslyassociatedwith WilliamShakespeareopens inLondon.

1607The first permanent settlement in what is now the United States isformed in Jamestown by English colonists.

1622Dutch East IndiaCompany ship ‘TheEendracht’, is wreckedoff the western coast of Ambon Island,Dutch East Indies.‘The Eendracht’ was thesecond ship to havemade landfall onAustralian soil.

1649King Charles Iof England,Scotland andIreland isbeheaded.

1648The Battle ofStirling between theMarquis of Argyll’sCovenanters andthe Earl of Lanark’sParliamentarians.

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Charles II Rob Roy MacGregor Dodo Peter the Great

1658 - 1672Franciscus Sylvius de la Boe becomes professorof medicine at Leiden University, Holland.Nowadays he is widely, and incorrectly,credited as having invented genever, which was already common when he was born in1614. De la Boe’s position in Leiden wouldhave meant he used juniper for its health-giving properties, building on the success ofthe health tonics distilled in Italy in the 1500s.

1665A municipal government isestablished in the formerDutch settlement of NewAmsterdam - New York.

1671Scottish folk hero Rob RoyMacGregor is born at Glengyle.

1660Charles II is crowned King of Englandafter a decade of rule by OliverCromwell and the Puritans. Oftenknown as ‘The Merrie Monarch’,Charles’ crowning signified thebeginning of The Restoration.

1672The Van Daledictionary,Holland’s OED,notes the firstpublished use of the word“genever” thenspelled with a “j”.

1682The reign ofPeter the Greatofficially beginsexpandingTsarist Russiainto the RussianEmpire andcreating a majorEuropean powerand influence.

1681The last Dodo dieson the island ofMauritius, thusmarking it as anextinct species.

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William III James II Berry Bros. & Rudd Hogarth’s ‘Gin Lane’

1688William III ascends to theEnglish throne, and gindistilling increases. Initially gin is very similar to genever,but over time it develops adistinctive style, eliminatingmalt wine. The ban of winesand spirits from Franceencourages the distillingindustry creating a ‘Gin Craze’.

1698Berry Bros. & Ruddestablished atNo.3 St James’sStreet inLondon. Thisunique addresslater inspiresthe creation of No.3 Gin.

1746Prince Charles EdwardStuart (Bonnie PrinceCharlie) flees to theIsle of Skye after theunsuccessful Jacobiterising and escapes thecountry after beingdisguised as an Irishmaid by FloraMacDonald.

1692The infamous Salemwitch trials begin inSalem Village,Massachusetts BayColony. The trial was immortalised in modern cultureas The Crucible, byplaywright ArthurMiller.

1690King William III of Englanddefeats the deposed James IIat the Battle of the Boyne,north of Dublin.

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1751Hogarth’s printsof ‘Beer Street’ and ‘Gin Lane’depict squalorand socialdepravationcaused by the hugeconsumption of cheap gin.

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1698The Palace of Whitehall inLondon is destroyed by fire.

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Original King’s Cross Charles Dickens Gin Palace Queen Victoria

1831The Hunchback of Notre Dame, by Victor Hugo is first published.

1785The dollarbecomes themonetary unit for theUnited States.

1812Novelist CharlesDickens is bornin Portsmouth.

1838Queen Victoria’s coronationtakes place at WestminsterAbbey in London.

183718-year-old Queen Victoria accedes to the throne of the United Kingdom.She reigns for more than 63 years.

1834The Slavery Abolition Act of 1833abolishes slavery in the British Empire.

1830The first Gin Palace - Thomson andFearon - is built in London at HolbornHill. Designed by architect JohnPapworth, the interior is thought tohave been created by Stephen Gearywho also designed the ornatecatacombs at Highgate Cemetery and the original King’s Cross - one of London’s first police stations.

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1780Langdales GinDistillery, famed for distilling essenceof cinnamon totreat the commoncold, burns to theground during riotsin London.

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Grimbles Malt Vinegar Pat Garrett The New York Times The Indian Mutiny

1850sWith the developmentsand popularity ofcontinuous distillationmany gin distillers begin to use a high quality cleangrain spirit base for ginproduction without havingto add sugar leading to thestyle of gin we know todayas ‘London Dry’.

1851The New York Times isfounded.

1850American Expressis founded byHenry Wells andWilliam Fargo.

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1851HodgesDistilleryestablish theirown privatefire brigadeand thecreation ofthe first firelookout towerin London.

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1850Pat Garrett, thelegendary USlawman and sheriff is born. Garrett ismost famouslyknown for hispursuit and killingof the renownedoutlaw Billy the Kid.

1843The Economistnewspaper isfirst published.

*1846Neptune isobserved forthe first timeby Germanastronomers.

1840The world’s first postage stamp, The Penny Black, comes into circulation.

1840Booth & GrimblesDistillery opens in London,initiallyproducing gin.With left overspirit, they createGrimbles Vinegar which becomes ahousehold name.

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Gilbeys Gin Earthenware gin bottles Jack the Ripper, Punch Vincent van Gogh

1886As a birthdaygift, Burma is presented to QueenVictoria, afterthe country isannexed intoBritish India.

1888Prostitute Martha Tabram isfound murdered in Whitechapel,London - the first victim of the notorious ‘Jack the Ripper’.

1890The Dutch artistVincent Van Gogh,dies after shootinghimself in thestomach.

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1871Gilbeys Gin foundedby Sir Walter Gilbey’sfamily of wine andspirits merchants inCamden Town. This is also where the firstSoda Stream wascreated by Walter’sgrandson Guy HughGilbey in 1903.

1890sGin bottles start being made from clearglass, after being originally sold in cask or earthenware bottles used by geneverproducers. Bols had developed the firstelongated bottle made from frosted greenglass that was then copied by many gindistillers. As glass making technologyimproved this allowed glass bottles tobecome clear to show the clarity andpurity of the liquid that was held inside.

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1899FC Barcelonais founded.

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1896The X-ray machineis first exhibited.

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Adolf Hitler Al Capone Prohibition Omaha Beach, WWII

1920-1933Prohibition in America - a nationwide ban on the sale,production, importation, and transportation of alcohol. As a result, clandestine drinking was rife and cocktail cultureflourished, whilst on the other side of the Atlantic many greatbartenders and wealthy Americans fled to cities like London and Paris to work and drink in style. Some classic drinks recipeswere spawned during this turbulent period in history, many ofwhich are still popular today - The White Lady, The Clover Club,The French ‘75 and The Negroni.

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1920Adolf Hitler becomes chief ofpropaganda of The German Workers’Party. Shortly after it renames itself asthe Nazi Party.

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1920-1933The Chicago underworld iscontrolled by Al Capone whoprofits indirectly fromProhibition with an estimatedUS$100 million per year inrevenue, generated by the sale of liquor and other illegalenterprises, such as gamblingand prostitution.

1939-1945WWII, the mostwidespread war in history withan estimated 50 to 85 millionfatalities.

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1938Oil is discovered in Saudi Arabia.

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Bols advertising Fidel Castro Bols advertising The Bartender’s Guide

1950 onward‘Jonge jenever’ made using less malt wine and moreneutral spirits, typically grain alcohol for the betterbrands and molasses alcohol for the less expensive ones,enjoys unbelievable popularity. To this day, a Bols-ownedbrand of jonge jenever, Hartevelt, outsells the entirevodka category in Holland, selling more than threemillion standard cases per year in Holland.

1959Fidel Castro becomesPremier of Cubaoverthrowing thedictatorship of Batistaand transforming thecountry into a one-partysocialist republic.

1969The lunar module Eaglelands on the moon. Watchedby an estimated 500 millionpeople worldwide, NeilArmstrong takes his historicfirst steps.

1973‘Dark Side of theMoon’ is released by Pink Floyd.

1957The Cavern Club, soonto become associatedwith The Beatles, opensits doors in Liverpool.

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2008Bols Genever is relaunched in the UK - a precious whisky-like triplegrain distillate made of corn, wheat and rye, which the Dutch call maltwine. The attention to detail in the distillation process is comparable to a fine single malt Scotch. Research by DaveWondrich is revealed which shows that the majority of ‘gin’ baseddrinks in Jerry Thomas’ era were made with ‘Hollands’, as geneverwas once known. The relaunch of Bols Genever gives today’sbartender the opportunity to create cocktails from 1862 andresurrect flavours that have not been experienced for generations.

2008Fidel Castro steps downas President of Cuba.

2008US swimmerMichaelPhelps winseight goldmedals at the BeijingOlympics.

2009Barack Obama isinaugurated as the44th, and firstAfrican-American,President of theUnited States.

2008Beijing, China hosts thesummer olympics.

Bols Genever Bols Genever Bols Genever

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2008Bill Gatesdeparts his postas chairman of Microsoft.

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2009NASA launches the Kepler spaceobservatory tosurvey extrasolarplanets in theMilky Way.

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2013A series of 3 portraitsof Lucian Freud by the British painterFrancis Bacon, sells forUS$142.4 million inNew York, setting anew world record.

201115,840 people are killed and3,926 are reported missingafter a 9.0-magnitudeearthquake and subsequenttsunami hit the east coast of Japan.

2010A number of volcaniceruptions beneathMount Eyjafjallajökull,in Iceland causewidespread air trafficchaos across northernand western Europe.

2010WikiLeaks leaks acollection of morethan 100,000 Americanclassified cables,sparking a worldwidesecurity panic.

No.3 Gin No.3 Gin Gin cocktails Juniper

2010Berry Bros. & Ruddrelease No.3 Gin, a premium LondonDry Gin created with the help of Dr David Clutton, oneof the world’s foremostauthorities on gin.

2010 onwardsToday we are in a midst of a second but more refined ‘Gin Craze’. Gin isbecoming popular throughout theworld with a multitude of differentstyles hitting the market and evenmore exciting and diverse drinksbeing created as a result.

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Gin and genever isheavily featured in the first ever printedbartenders guide ‘How to Mix Drinks or The Bon-VivantsCompanion, 1862’written by Jerry ‘Professor’ Thomas.

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When the Golden Age of Cocktails kicked off in the latter part of the 19th century, gin and in particular genever quickly became classic ‘Cocktail’ ingredients. Indeed, gin andgenever is heavily featured in the first ever printed bartendersguide ‘How to Mix Drinks or The Bon-Vivants Companion, 1862’written by Jerry ‘Professor’ Thomas. Many gin cocktails listedwithin his guides are still prevalent today The Martinez, The Fancy Gin Cocktail, The Holland House, The Gin Daisy,The Gin Fix, The Gin Fizz, The Gin Crusta, The Gin Sling,and The Collins.

Gin as the chosen cocktail ingredient again made its mark during Prohibition America (1920-1933) when cocktailculture and gin drinks flourished on both sides of the Atlantic,spawning many classic recipes still popular today such as The White Lady, The Clover Club, The French ‘75, and The Negroni.

Gin and genever have a huge array of complexities intheir style and flavour, making them key ingredients in creating great drinks.

Gin & Genever and cocktails

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Bols Genever is a superior and premium ‘old school’genever, based on the original 1820 Bols Genever recipewhich conquered the world and helped define cocktailsduring their first Golden Age in the 19th century.

There can be no better spirit to use to recreate the classiccocktails of the 19th century: Dutch genever was a mainstay of cocktail-making in America in the 1860s. In the first book of bartending, ‘The Bartender’s Guide’, Jerry Thomas specifies‘Hollands Gin’ for many of his recipes, often offering Old Tomas an alternative to make a different drink.

It is wise to follow this advice when using Bols Genever - not a mere gin replacement, but a category in itself which is a subtle and intriguing cocktail base.

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The smooth, subtle, malty flavour of this white spirit comesfrom using over 50% malt wine, which is made from long-fermented, rye, corn and wheat, triple-distilled in copper pot stills. The use of pot stills provides a surprisingly fullmouth-feel and rich flavour for a white spirit. This malt wine,the heart of good genever, is then infused with a carefullyselected distillate of juniper and other botanicals.

Inspired by the past, recreated for today. Like itspackaging - a stylish iconic smoke glass bottle based on theshape of the original Bols clay jugs and featuring authenticAmsterdam-style handwritten typography.

Bols Genever production secrets

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AppearanceCrystal clear.

NoseFresh herbs and spices,malt characteristics.

PalateHerbal, spicy and grassynotes, with hints of fresh-baked bread andjuniper berries.

FinishSmooth, malty.

Taste profile

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AMSTERDAMMEREssential Build

1. Take a clean highball glass

2. Fill with fresh, solid ice cubes

3. Squeeze in a wedge of lime and drop it into the glass

4. Measure in 25ml Bols Genever

5. Top up with fresh ginger beer, stir and serve

Each Amsterdammer contains 1 unit of alcohol.

HOLLAND HOUSEEssential Shake

1. Add 25ml Bols Genever, 25ml dry vermouth, 12.5ml fresh lemon juice and 5ml Maraschino liqueur to a clean Boston glass

2. Fill the Boston with fresh, solid ice cubes

3. Shake vigorously for 10-12 seconds

4. Carefully open shaker and place Hawthorne strainer over the top

5. Double strain into a chilled cocktail glass or coupé, garnish with an orange zest and serve

Each Holland House contains approximately 1.5 units of alcohol.

Bols Genever essential serves

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DUTCH COURAGEEssential Swizzle

1. Take a clean highball glass and fill it with fresh, solid ice cubes

2. Squeeze in a wedge of lemon and drop it into the glass

3. Measure in 25ml Bols Genever

4. Top up with pressed apple juice

5. Garnish with seasonal berries, drizzle in 12.5ml Bols Crème de Cassis, and serve

Each Dutch Courage contains approximately 1.5 units of alcohol.

IMPROVED HOLLAND GIN COCKTAILEssential Stir

1. Fill a clean mixing glass with fresh, solid ice cubes

2. Add 2 dashes orange bitters, 50ml Bols Genever, 2 dashes Bols Dry Orange Curaçao and 10ml sugar syrup

3. Place a barspoon down the inside of the glass and stir briskly for around 25 seconds

4. Place a Julep strainer over the top

5. Rim a cocktail glass with lemon, strain in the cocktail, garnish with a twist of lemon zest, and serve

Each Improved Holland Gin Cocktail containsapproximately 2.5 units of alcohol.

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No.3 London Dry Gin is distilled to a proprietary recipeof Berry Bros & Rudd, London’s oldest wine and spiritmerchant. The name No.3 refers to the address in St James’s Street, London: the home of Berry Bros since1698. Berry Bros. & Rudd currently holds RoyalWarrants for H.M. The Queen and H.R.H The Princeof Wales.

“No.3 is unmistakably traditional London Dry Gin. By traditional we mean gin that tastes as gin should: with juniper at its heart.

We are determined that No.3 will be the last word in gin for a DryMartini cocktail.

To achieve this we asked one of the world’s authorities in the artand science of gin distillation, Dr David Clutton, as well as a panelof gin specialists, writers and mixologists to help us.”

SIMON BERRYChairman, Berry Bros. & Rudd

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The resulting liquid, with juniper as its bedrock, is the absoluteembodiment of what a London Dry Gin should be. Put simply,it is a taste of tradition. Juniper, from Italy, not only gives ginits name, but also the unmistakable gin taste of pine andlavender. Sweet Spanish orange peel provides freshness in theform of clean, crisp citrus. Grapefruit peel gives an extra zingylift. Angelica root delivers an earthy quality and helps to makethe gin dry. Moroccan coriander seed releases a lemon flavourand a spicy, slightly peppery finish. And finally, cardamompods add a spicy, aromatic warm bite.

No.3 London Dry Gin is distilled at one of Holland’soldest distilleries owned by a family firm which like Berry Bros. & Rudd, has over 300 years of experience and know-how. No.3 Gin is the only London Dry Gin that they distil. The production is overseen by gin expert - Dr David Cluttonwho brings unparalleled experience in gin production inorder to guarantee the perfect result.

A taste of tradition

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NoseBright, crisp and fresh with anuplifting welcome of juniper.

PalateJuniper to the fore, supportedby floral notes and spicy, warmcardamom. Plenty of citrus‘zing’ complemented by thegingery spiciness of coriander.

FinishThe earthy dryness of angelicakicks in.

Taste profile

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NO.3 & TEssential Build

1. Take a clean highball glass

2. Fill with fresh, solid ice cubes

3. Squeeze in a wedge of lemon and drop it into the glass

4. Measure in 50ml No.3 Gin

5. Top up with fresh tonic, stir and serve

Each No.3 & T contains approximately 2 units of alcohol.

NO.3 NEGRONIEssential Stir

1. Mix together 35ml No.3 Gin, 35ml red vermouth and 35ml Campari bitters in the bottom of an old-fashioned glass

2. Add 5 or 6 fresh, solid ice cubes and stir briskly and stylishly for 20 seconds with a barspoon

3. Leaving the barspoon in the glass, add more ice cubes

4. Stir again, for another 30 seconds

5. Top with more ice, garnish with orange and lemon zest, and serve

Each No.3 Negroni contains approximately 3 units of alcohol.

No.3 Gin essential serves

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FRENCH 75Essential Shake

1. Add 25ml No.3 Gin, 25ml freshly squeezed lemon juice and 10ml gomme syrup to an empty Boston shaker glass

2. Fill shaker glass with cubed ice, place shaker tin overtop and seal tightly

3. Shake vigorously for 10 seconds

4. Carefully open Boston shaker and place Hawthorne strainer over the top

5. Fine strain into a pre-chilled champagne glass, top up with champagne, garnish with a grignotine cherry or lemon peel and serve

Each French 75 contains approximately 1 unit of alcohol.

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The Key

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The key on the bottle was inspired by the key to the lock in the door of The Parlour at the heart of the shop at No.3 St James’s Street.

The Parlour, in many ways, is theinner sanctum of No.3 St James’s Street.It is one of the oldest chambers in theshop; a room that is steeped in historyand tradition.

The No.3 key therefore unlocks thesecrets and traditions of an extraordinaryinstitution and symbolises our values ofquality, authority and integrity.

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NMIXXIT WITH GIN & GENEVER

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