A JEREMY SCOTT ACCESSORY ROUND-UP HELEN · PDF fileADVERTISEMENT THE NATURAL, RESPONSIBLE...

1
ADVERTISEMENT THE NATURAL, RESPONSIBLE CHOICE Fur Information Council of America 8424 A Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 860 West Hollywood, California 90069 323.782.1700 www.fur.org A s New York Fashion Week came to a close, it became clear that fur is not simply integral to today’s key trends, it is one of the season’s most important trends. De- signers used fur to flex their creative muscles, delivering exciting, innovative, luxurious fur and fur-trimmed fashions and accessories. HELEN YARMAK Rock ‘n’ roll energy met fur royalty in Helen Yarmak’s Fall 2011 collection. Sable, once the fur exclusive to nobility, was fashioned into a side-buttoned poncho so sumptuous it was in a class by itself. A fox vest dyed bright orange would rock the house wherever it goes and a glossy black kidskin coat with black goat trim defined urban sophisti- cation. However, it was her colorful spin on combating winter that got ev- eryone’s attention: camouflage-printed furs. A swirl of black, inky blue and gray, the iconic pattern was rendered on free-flowing vests, wraps and flat- tering dresses in mink and fox. Al- though shown with jeans, it was clear they could lend a cool edge to dressier looks, too. True chameleons, the cam- ouflage furs are reversible, a Yarmak signature that recurred throughout the collection. Rather than merely fabri- cating a lining, Yarmak sueded, bronzed and laser-printed the natural back of the furs, adding to every gar- ment’s manifold versatility. ADRIENNE LANDAU With guest designer Johnny Weir, Adrienne Landau presented a fierce and fearlessly fun collection of fur fashion for Fall 2011. Landau exuber- antly embraced the layered look, a mash-up of color, texture, proportion and silhouette. Trends, seen else- where on the runways, found some of the most creative expressions in fur in this line. Patchwork, for example came in a multi-colored fox vest. Multi-colored mink vests with a zig- zag pattern evoked a tribal feel. Where capes and stoles may have been the fur attraction at other shows, here they were found topping coats. Weir sported the look in the mink coat and silver fox body stole he designed. A short mink fuchsia-striped vest over a purple Mongolian jacket was layering at its most daring. JEREMY SCOTT Famous for his sense of fun and campy style, Jeremy Scott gave his fans plenty to cheer with his candy-colored romp through the Nineties’ club scene. Where he used fur, he played fun-house mirror with propor- tion and volume: a tangerine shrunken shearling jacket that topped a cheeky pill- pattern jumpsuit, a mini skirt with a large swathe of bright orange-dyed fox that looked as if it might engulf the silver leather top half of the skirt and a bubble-gum pink chubby that was worn over a long, sheer dress and boy shorts in silver. Scott’s Mary Jane platforms covered in long goat hair were cool enough for the club but as cozy as bedroom slippers. CHRISTIAN COTA An exploration through rugged terrain, Christian Cota’s Fall collection was packed with earth-hued knits, separates and coats that can take a woman from day to night — or from the tundra to TriBeCa. In his first foray into fur, he explored “painterly effects through texture” as demonstrated by the nomadic plaid wool onde fox coat worn over a long tank jersey dress, as well as in a long two-toned feather fox long vest and a sheared blue frost fox knit jacket, both of which were also shown with prints that beautifully played off the texture and varie- gated colors in the fur. Other highlights: a felted wool pencil skirt with a swathe of fox running down the front; a heathered wool long- sleeve top with fox running diagonally across the front, curling around the back and touching the front of the opposite shoulder; and a printed onde fox sheath dress that managed to have shape despite the fullness of the fur. ELENE CASSIS Elene Cassis presented a range of lady-like luxe looks for Fall 2011. Inspired by the New York skyline, the collection — mostly dresses in graphic patterns in black and white and shimmering neutrals — was a study in sophistication. Plush fox neck- pieces and hats added to the glamour and cosmopolitan allure. A black mink vest with leather belt and a black mink short top worn over a black and white silk jersey dress expressed an easy, casual elegance. The designer took a walk on the wild side with a cape — a strong silhouette this sea- son — in black mink and bouclé wool that needed only the thigh-high boots to show how fabulous it was. ACCESSORY ROUND-UP No longer the little add-on extras of seasons past, fur accessories made a big statement on the runways for fall, reaching new heights with bold, attention-grabbing looks — from dramatic face-framing hoods and high collars/neck pieces to oversized hand- bags and the sexiest boots and stilettos ever seen. Some of the most exciting looks in- cluded: The fox-brimmed louz hat at Oscar de la Renta worn alluringly low on the fore- head. Imperially high on the neck, Chris- tian Cota’s printed onde fox collars were feathery and flattering. Long on sex appeal were J. Mendel’s open-toed, thigh-high boots in navy Indian broadtail, Ohne Ti- tel’s cuff stiletto boot with fox trim and Al- exander Wang’s dyed red fox stilettos with mud flaps. Dennis Basso’s marigold chin- chilla and alligator handbag and Michael Kors’ all-fox messenger bag were sporty chic at it most luxe. Last but not least, Venexiana’s striking fox muff with fox tails shown with a chiffon evening gown and Elene Cassis’ wine fox muff paired with matching fox neckpiece made a strong case for a serious revival of the muff. FEBRUARY 22, 2011 ELENE CASSIS JEREMY SCOTT CHRISTIAN COTA HELEN YARMAK ADRIENNE LANDAU OSCAR DE LA RENTA MICHAEL KORS J. MENDEL CHRISTIAN COTA DENNIS BASSO ALEXANDER WANG THE RUNWAY REPORT NEW YORK

Transcript of A JEREMY SCOTT ACCESSORY ROUND-UP HELEN · PDF fileADVERTISEMENT THE NATURAL, RESPONSIBLE...

ADVERTISEMENT

THE NATURAL, RESPONSIBLE CHOICE

Fur Information Council of America 8424 A Santa Monica Blvd., Suite 860

West Hollywood, California 90069 323.782.1700 www.fur.org

A s Ne w York Fa sh ion We ek came to a close, it became clear that fur is not simply

integral to today’s key trends, it is one of the season’s most important trends. De-signers used fur to f lex their creative muscles, delivering exciting, innovative, luxurious fur and fur-trimmed fashions and accessories.

HELEN YARMAK

Rock ‘n’ roll energy met fur royalty in Helen Yarmak’s Fall 2011 collection. Sable, once the fur exclusive to nobility, was fashioned into a side-buttoned poncho so sumptuous it was in a class by itself. A fox vest dyed bright orange would rock the house wherever it goes and a glossy black kidskin coat with black goat trim defined urban sophisti-cation. However, it was her colorful spin on combating winter that got ev-eryone’s attention: camouf lage-printed furs. A swirl of black, inky blue and gray, the iconic pattern was rendered on free-f lowing vests, wraps and f lat-tering dresses in mink and fox. Al-though shown with jeans, it was clear they could lend a cool edge to dressier looks, too. True chameleons, the cam-ouf lage furs are reversible, a Yarmak signature that recurred throughout the collection. Rather than merely fabri-cating a lining, Yarmak sueded, bronzed and laser-printed the natural back of the furs, adding to every gar-ment’s manifold versatility.

ADRIENNE LANDAU

With guest designer Johnny Weir, Adrienne Landau presented a f ierce and fearlessly fun collection of fur fashion for Fall 2011. Landau exuber-antly embraced the layered look, a mash-up of color, texture, proportion and silhouette. Trends, seen else-where on the runways, found some of the most creative expressions in fur in this line. Patchwork, for example came in a multi-colored fox vest. Multi-colored mink vests with a zig-zag pattern evoked a tr ibal feel. Where capes and stoles may have been the fur attraction at other shows, here they were found topping coats. Weir sported the look in the mink coat and silver fox body stole he designed. A short mink fuchsia-striped vest over a purple Mongolian jacket was layering at its most daring.

JEREMY SCOTT

Famous for his sense of fun and campy style, Jeremy Scott gave his fans plenty to cheer with his candy-colored romp through the Nineties’ club scene. Where he used fur, he played fun-house mirror with propor-tion and volume: a tangerine shrunken shearling jacket that topped a cheeky pill-pattern jumpsuit, a mini skirt with a large swathe of bright orange-dyed fox that looked as if it might engulf the silver leather top half of the skirt and a bubble-gum pink chubby that was worn over a long, sheer dress and boy shorts in silver. Scott’s Mary Jane platforms covered in long goat hair were cool enough for the club but as cozy as bedroom slippers.

CHRISTIAN COTA

An exploration through rugged terrain, Christian Cota’s Fall collection was packed with earth-hued knits, separates and coats that can take a woman from day to night — or from the tundra to TriBeCa. In his first foray into fur, he explored “painterly effects through texture” as demonstrated by the nomadic plaid wool onde fox coat worn over a long tank jersey dress, as well as in a long two-toned feather fox long vest and a sheared blue frost fox knit jacket, both of which were also shown with prints that beautifully played off the texture and varie-gated colors in the fur. Other highlights: a felted wool pencil skirt with a swathe of fox running down the front; a heathered wool long- sleeve top with fox running diagonally across the front, curling around the back and touching the front of the opposite shoulder; and a printed onde fox sheath dress that managed to have shape despite the fullness of the fur.

ELENE CASSIS

Elene Cassis presented a range of lady-like luxe looks for Fall 2011. Inspired by the New York skyline, the collection — mostly dresses in graphic patterns in black and white and shimmering neutrals — was a study in sophistication. Plush fox neck-pieces and hats added to the glamour and cosmopolitan allure. A black mink vest with leather belt and a black mink short top worn over a black and white silk jersey dress expressed an easy, casual elegance. The designer took a walk on the wild side with a cape — a strong silhouette this sea-son — in black mink and bouclé wool that needed only the thigh-high boots to show how fabulous it was.

ACCESSORY ROUND-UP

No longer the little add-on extras of seasons past, fur accessories made a big statement on the runways for fall, reaching new heights with bold, attention-grabbing looks — from dramatic face-framing hoods and high collars/neck pieces to oversized hand-bags and the sexiest boots and stilettos ever seen. Some of the most exciting looks in-cluded: The fox-brimmed louz hat at Oscar de la Renta worn alluringly low on the fore-head. Imperially high on the neck, Chris-tian Cota’s printed onde fox collars were feathery and flattering. Long on sex appeal were J. Mendel’s open-toed, thigh-high boots in navy Indian broadtail, Ohne Ti-tel’s cuff stiletto boot with fox trim and Al-exander Wang’s dyed red fox stilettos with mud flaps. Dennis Basso’s marigold chin-chilla and alligator handbag and Michael Kors’ all-fox messenger bag were sporty chic at it most luxe. Last but not least, Venexiana’s striking fox muff with fox tails shown with a chiffon evening gown and Elene Cassis’ wine fox muff paired with matching fox neckpiece made a strong case for a serious revival of the muff.

FEBRUARY 22, 2011

ELENE CASSIS

JEREMY SCOTT

CHRISTIAN COTA

HELEN YARMAK

ADRIENNE LANDAU

OSCAR DE LA RENTA

MICHAEL KORS

J. MENDEL

CHRISTIAN COTA

DENNIS BASSO

ALEXANDER WANG

TH

ERUNWAYREPORTNEW YORK