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A Bust Em’ Out Project The Original

Late 1960’s Univox Super Fuzz

This is an original Univox Super Fuzz built in the late 60s or early 70s. The Super Fuzz may be the most licensed circuit of all time. Over a dozen manufacturers have sold this circuit under their brand name on nearly every continent. This is the legendary pedal was used by Pete Townsend on the album “Live at Leeds.” It is finding favor with contemporary players such as Dan Auerbach of Queens of the Stone Age. The circuit was designed by Shin-ei engineers in 1968 and enjoys the impeccable engineering evident in all Shin-ei designs. The heart of this clone is the 2SC828 transistors and the OA-90 germanium diodes. RetroTone® offers you this kit as our take on a classic.

RetroTone® Super Fly

Fuzz

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dan_Auerbach

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Queens_of_the_Stone_Age


© 2 0 1 6 R e t r o T o n e , L L C . P a g e 2 | 57

A Bust Em’ Out Project

Introduction The Super Fly is a fuzz with tons of finesse and innuendo. Many consider it the penultimate fuzz due to its versatile tone selection. It has garnered a cult following over the years. The Japanese company, Shin-ei electronics produced this fuzz, with minor variations, from the late 1960’s to the late 1970’s. This circuit was licensed to many manufacturers and has been produced under many brands all over the world.

The engineering in this pedal is impeccable. It has stages to produce an octave up and down. It also has a crazy amount of gain. The unique feature is a 1khz scoop filter to give it a character immediately identifiable to this circuit.

RetroTone® found a late-60’s original Univox Super Fuzz and reverse engineered it. The Super Fly is the result. At the heart of this kit are 2SC828 transistors and OA-90 germanium diodes. Care has been taken with component selection to give you a close approximation to the original Super Fuzz.

This project is for the advanced pedal builder ready to take on a challenge. It is expected that the builder has a command of component identification, reference designators, soldering skills and test methods.

The Super Fly kit from RetroTone® will give you years of rugged road worthy service when you successfully complete this build.



Contents Introduction .................................................................................................................................................. 2

Bill of Materials ............................................................................................................................................. 6

Specifications ................................................................................................................................................ 7

Required Tools .............................................................................................................................................. 7

Parts Placement ............................................................................................................................................ 8

PCB Assembly ................................................................................................................................................ 9

Overview ................................................................................................................................................... 9

Optional Components ............................................................................................................................. 10

Power and I/O Section Assembly ................................................................................................................ 11

Capacitor – C1 ......................................................................................................................................... 12

Capacitor – C2 ......................................................................................................................................... 16

Resistor - R1, R36 .................................................................................................................................... 18

Diode – D1 ............................................................................................................................................... 19

Footswitches – SW1, SW2 ....................................................................................................................... 21

DC Jack - J3 .............................................................................................................................................. 22

Input/Output Jacks – J1, J2 ..................................................................................................................... 23

LED and Standoff – LED1, LED2 ............................................................................................................... 24

Battery Snap – BATT1.............................................................................................................................. 25

Stage 1 Input Amplifier Section .................................................................................................................. 27

Resistors R3, R4, R9, R5, R6 R7, R24, R13, R8 ......................................................................................... 28

Capacitors C3, C4, C5, C13, C15 .............................................................................................................. 29

Transistor Q1, Q6 .................................................................................................................................... 29

Stage 2 Phase Splitter Section..................................................................................................................... 31

Resistors R10, R11, R12, R14, R21, R22 .................................................................................................. 32

Capacitors C7, C8, C14 ............................................................................................................................ 33

Transistor Q4 ........................................................................................................................................... 33

Stage 3 Differential Amplifier Section ......................................................................................................... 35



Resistors R15, R16, R17, R18, R19, R20 .................................................................................................. 36

Capacitors C6, C9 .................................................................................................................................... 37

Transistor Q2, Q3 .................................................................................................................................... 37

Stage 4 Diode Clipping Section ................................................................................................................... 39

Capacitors C10 ........................................................................................................................................ 40

Diodes D2, D3 .......................................................................................................................................... 40

Stage 5 Notch Filter Section ........................................................................................................................ 42

Resistors R23, R26, R29, R30 .................................................................................................................. 43

Capacitors C16, C17 ................................................................................................................................ 43

Stage 6 Output Amplifier Section ............................................................................................................... 45

Resistors R31, R32, R33, R44, R35 .......................................................................................................... 46

Capacitors C11, C12 ................................................................................................................................ 47

Transistor Q5 ........................................................................................................................................... 47

Potentiometer VR24, VR25 ..................................................................................................................... 49

Mechanical Assembly.............................................................................................................................. 51

Testing the Super Fly ................................................................................................................................... 54

Trouble Shooting Tips ................................................................................................................................. 54

Returns and Exchanges ............................................................................................................................... 57



Figure 1 - Completed Super Fly ..................................................................................................................... 8 Figure 2 – Example Reference Designators on the PCB ................................................................................ 9 Figure 3 – Super Fly Assembly .................................................................................................................... 10 Figure 4 - Power and I/O ............................................................................................................................. 11 Figure 5 - Electrolytic Capacitor with Long Positive Lead ........................................................................... 12 Figure 6 - Characteristics of an Electrolytic Capacitor ................................................................................ 13 Figure 7 - Hold the Soldering Iron Tip Under the Lead ............................................................................... 14 Figure 8 - Two Most Common Soldering Mistakes ..................................................................................... 15 Figure 9 - Nicely Soldered Capacitor Leads ................................................................................................. 15 Figure 10 - Ceramic Capacitor Markings ..................................................................................................... 16 Figure 11 - No Polarity Indication for Capacitor C2 .................................................................................... 16 Figure 12 - C1 and C2 Properly fastened to the PCB ................................................................................... 17 Figure 13 – Resistor – R1 and R2 Value ...................................................................................................... 18 Figure 14 - Bending Axial Leads .................................................................................................................. 18 Figure 15 - Diode - D1 Polarity Band ........................................................................................................... 19 Figure 16 - Soldering Resistor and Diode Leads All At Once ....................................................................... 20 Figure 17 - Cut Leads After Soldering ......................................................................................................... 20 Figure 18 - Heat Up Footswitch Pin ............................................................................................................ 21 Figure 19 - Footswitch is Flush to PCB ........................................................................................................ 21 Figure 20 - DC Jack Alignment on Footprint ............................................................................................... 22 Figure 21 - Large Holes on DC Jack ............................................................................................................. 22 Figure 22 - 1/4" Audio Input/Out Jack ........................................................................................................ 23 Figure 23 - LED1 Polarity ............................................................................................................................. 24 Figure 24 - LED and Standoff ....................................................................................................................... 24 Figure 25 - LED1 PCB Footprint ................................................................................................................... 24 Figure 26 - Battery Snap PCB Footprint ...................................................................................................... 25 Figure 27 – Battery Snap Strain Relief ........................................................................................................ 25 Figure 28 - Completed Power and I/O Section ........................................................................................... 26 Figure 29 - Completed Input Amplifier Section .......................................................................................... 30 Figure 30 – Completed Phase Splitter Section ............................................................................................ 34 Figure 31 - Completed Differential Amplifier Section ................................................................................. 38 Figure 32 - Completed Clipping Section ...................................................................................................... 41 Figure 33 - Completed Notch Filter Section ................................................................................................ 44 Figure 34 - Completed Output Amplifier Section ....................................................................................... 48 Figure 35 – Completed Super Fly ................................................................................................................ 50 Figure 36 - Footswitch Nut Height .............................................................................................................. 51 Figure 37 - Footswitch Washer Stackup...................................................................................................... 51 Figure 38 - Level the PCB ............................................................................................................................ 52 Figure 39 - Center DC Jack Pin In Hole ........................................................................................................ 52



Figure 40 - Super Fly Completed ................................................................................................................. 53 Figure 41 - Single Hole Dimensions ............................................................................................................. 56

Bill of Materials Ref Description Qty Value Part Number

PCB Power Pak 4000-0009 C1 Electrolytic Filter Capacitor 1 100uF 0200-0000 C2 MLCC Ceramic Filter Capacitor 1 10nF 0200-0100 R1,R2,R34 Metal Film Resistor 3 1K 0100-0001 D1 Rectifier Diode 1 1N4001 1400-0001 Super Fly PCB Pak 4000-0033 FR4 Printed Circuit Board 1 1200-0009 SW1 Footswitch 1 3PDT 0600-0003 SW2 Footswitch 1 2PDT 0600-0009 PCB IO Pak 4000-0020 J1, J2 ¼” Input/Out Jacks 2 0900-0002 J3 DC Input PCB Mount 1 0900-0007 BAT1 Battery Snap 1 0900-0001 600-LED Pak 4000-0010 LED1-2 Yellow Light Emitting Diode 1 5mm LED 1500-0010 0.6” LED Standoff 1 0.1 x 0.6 1600-0004 LED Panel Retainer and Ring 1 1600-0003 Enclosure Pak 4000-0003 1590BB Enclosure 1 1000-0007 Adhesive Bumpers 1 1600-0002 Battery Pad 1 1600-0001 Super Fly Component Pak 4000-0103 Q1-6 NPN Bipolar Silicon Transistor 6 2SC828 0700-0006 D2, D3 Germanium Signal Diode 2 OA-90 1400-0006 R21-22 Carbon Film 5% 2 470 ohms 0100-0115 R34, R36 Carbon Film 5% 2 1K ohm 0100-0116 R5, R20 Carbon Film 5% 2 1.8K ohms 0100-0109 R24 Carbon Film 5% 1 3.3K ohms 0100-0112 R10, R12,R13, R17,R26, R30, R32

Carbon Film 5% 7 10K ohms 0100-0102

R33 Carbon Film 5% 1 15K ohms 0100-0117 R3, R16, R19, R29




R4, R9, R23


R6-7, R15,R18, R31,R35


R14 Carbon Film 5% 1 150K ohms 0100-0107 R11 Carbon Film 5% 1 200K ohms 0100-0114 R8 Carbon Film 5% 1 330K ohms 0100-0111 C3-12, C14

Electrolytic 50volts 20% 11 10uF 0200-0002

C13, C16 Polyester Film 100V 0.1uF J 5% 2 100nF 0200-0202 C15, C17 Polyester Film 100V 0.001uF J 5% 2 1nF 0200-0203 Super Fly Dial Indicator Pak 4000-0203 VR1,VR2 Potentiometer Linear Taper, Long PCB 1 50K ohms 0500-0041 Black Knob 2 1100-0002

Specifications High Quality FR4 PCB Input Impedance 100Kohms 9VDC Input DC Supply Output Impedance 5Kohms Frequency Response 20Hz- 20kHz Current Draw 7.5mA@9VDC

Required Tools • 6” Needle Nose Pliers • Small flat blade screw driver • Phillips Screw Driver • 4” Wire Cutters • Soldering Iron • Solder – No Clean Flux - 0.031” • Wet Sponge



Parts Placement It is important to place the correct component in the correct location on the printed circuit board (PCB). This section helps the builder just starting out visually identify the component and how it is placed and attached to the PCB.

Figure 1 - Completed Super Fly

Each component has a reference designator. A reference designator has one or more letters followed by a number. This scheme is standard throughout the electronics industry.

• Resistors - Rx • Capacitors – Cx • Diode – Dx • Transistors Qx • Connecters - Jx • Switches - SWx • Battery Snap – BATx • Light Emitting Diode – LEDx



Some components have a “polarity” and must be placed correctly for the component to work properly. The Transistor, LED, diode, some capacitors and the battery snap on the Super Fly have a polarity. The photos below show the LED with a clearly marked “polarity.” The flat side of the LED is the “negative” terminal. The small rectangle on D1 shows the “polarity” for a diode. This terminal is called a cathode. The small plus sign on capacitor C1 shows the “positive” terminal.

Figure 2 – Example Reference Designators on the PCB

PCB Assembly

Overview Start with the resistors, capacitors and the diode. These components lie close to the board and can be difficult to place if there are large components in close proximity. Be aware of the polarity of the filter cap and the diode.

The footswitches are next. The only trick to these components is to make sure that they are flush with the board.

Next, place the DC Jack. This component has large holes and requires a significant amount of solder to fill the holes. It also sits very close to the ¼” input jack. It is very important to make sure that the DC jack aligns with the footprint pattern on the PCB. It also must sit flush with the PCB. Proper placement allows the DC jack to align with the holes in the enclosure in the final assembly.

Place the ¼” jacks. Make sure the open end of the connector is facing the outside edge of the board. The pattern is symetrical so it is easy to put it in backwards (yes, I’ve done it). This must also be flush with the board.

Put the stand offs on the leds and solder them into the pattern observing that the polarity is correct. The flat side of the LED is the negative terminal and it must align with the footprint on the PCB. Be sure that it is standing straight. This is essential to provide proper alignment with the hole in the enclosure.



Finally, the battery snap leads should be put into the large hole from underneath the PCB then each lead soldered into the respective hole. This provides a strain releif if the snap is acidently tugged. The PCB is clearly marked with the positive and negative terminals, as well as, lead colors.

Optional Components The battery snap and the reverse polarity protection are optional. If you intend to always use your pedal with a power source on a pedal board you don’t really need the battery snap. The Super Fly circuit is built from a discrete transistors, you really don’t need the reverse polarity circuit. If you think about it for a second, the transistors really act as diodes and suffer no dammage from reverse polarity. However, you can dammage the transistor with over voltage or a poor bias scheme.

Figure 3 – Super Fly Assembly



Power and I/O Section Assembly

Figure 4 - Power and I/O



Capacitor – C1 This cap is an electrolytic filter cap. It is designed to short undesirable low frequencies to ground. This is the low frequency hum that you may have heard before. This gives you reasonable protection against a poorly designed power supply.

This capacitor is polarized. You must place it correctly for it to work correctly and prevent damage to component itself. Electrolytic capacitors have been known to explode with reverse polarity and overvoltage.

Figure 5 - Electrolytic Capacitor with Long Positive Lead

Many electrolytic capacitors have one lead longer than the other. This is usually the positive lead and must be placed in the hole with a plus sign. You can see this in the above photo. The following photo shows the characteristics of an electrolytic capacitor. These characteristics are “value”, “working voltage” and “polarity”.



The value relates to how much charge the capcitor can hold. The larger the value the larger the charge. The value for the Super Fly is 100uF. This is pronounced “one hundred micro farads”. The working voltage must be higher than the voltage that is applied to the circuit. Most pedals run off of 9 volts DC. This capacitor has a 25VDC limit. This allows you to apply up to 18VDC. I wouldn’t go much higher than that because we always like to have a margin of error. There is much to know about capacitor materials and ratings. And, is out of the scope of this document. Check the “How To” section of our website for a paper on the capacitors RetroTone® uses for all the projects we produce. Beavis Audio also has an excellent paper that covers capacitors in a more general way.

Figure 6 - Characteristics of an Electrolytic Capacitor



Hold the tip of the soldering iron under the component lead. Heat rises so the lead will heat evenly. Place the solder on top of the lead. Do not touch the solder with the soldering iron. The capacitor lead has to get hot enough to melt the solder so the solder will stick. The solder will melt and fill the hole. You do not want too much solder. The connection should be shiny and the solder should form sloped walls and adhere to the edges of the hole. If the solder looks like a blob, then there is too much solder. If the lead is not hot enough, the solder won’t adhere and you will have a void.

Figure 7 - Hold the Soldering Iron Tip Under the Lead

The photo above shows a good way to hold the tip under the lead. The lead will heat up after a moment or two. Touch the solder on top of the lead. Try not to touch the soldering iron tip itself. This guarantees that the lead is hot enough to take the solder. The last thing to note is that you don’t need much solder.



The next photo shows the two most common mistakes when first beginning to solder.

Keep the soldering iron tip clean. Your soldering iron should have come with a sponge. Wet the sponge under a faucet and wring it out so it is damp. Turn your iron on and let it come up to temperature. Start with your soldering iron temperature at 700F to 750F. Touch the tip with some solder and let the solder blob onto the tip. Wipe the tip on the sponge to remove the solder. Repeat this until the solder is evenly distributed on the tip. This is called tinning. When you are finished soldering for the day, put a blob of solder on the tip and place the iron in the holder being careful not to knock any solder off the tip. This keeps the tip tinned between uses and prevents oxidation. This also effectively increases the life of the soldering tip.

Figure 8 - Two Most Common Soldering Mistakes

Figure 9 - Nicely Soldered Capacitor Leads



Capacitor – C2 This capacitor is multilayer ceramic capacitor (MLCC). It is designed to short undesirable high frequencies to ground. Such as higher frequency radio signals.

Figure 10 - Ceramic Capacitor Markings

Figure 11 - No Polarity Indication for Capacitor C2



The electrolytic (C1) we placed can successfully short low frequencies but its effectiveness drops off as the frequencies get higher. Pairing C1 and C2 filters out a broad range of frequencies from the power supply.

The MLCC capacitor is marked with two items. One is the manufacturer’s mark, in this case BC, for BC Components made by Vishay. The other is the value marked as 104. What this means is a 10 followed by 4 zeroes. This comes out to 100000. But 100000 what? This value is in pico farads. This is an industry standard marking. We have all agreed that the value is in pico farads for this type of capacitor. There are three value ranges commonly used in capacitors this size. “Mili” is not used for capacitors but is shown here for completeness. They are as follows.

Engineering Notation Pico P 10-12 0.000000000000 Nano N 10-9 0.000000000 Micro U 10-6 0.000000 Milli M 10-3 0.000

With all those zeroes and a decimal point, it is much easier to write 0.1uF than 100000pF. This value is also equivalent to 100nF. These are all equivalent for the value on our capacitor. Some people don’t like the decimal point in 0.1uF because it can get lost in the document duplication process so they will use 100nF for clarity. 100000pF just has too many zeroes.

Figure 12 - C1 and C2 Properly fastened to the PCB



Resistor - R1, R36 This resistor controls the amount of current that flows through the LED. The photo below shows the value of the resistor supplied with your kit. This resistor is a metal film. Metal film resistors are stable over temperature and are available with tight tolerances. The photo below shows the value. The manufacturer has designed this code and is not necessarily an industry standard. The 100 is the value, the 1 is the number of zeroes and the F is the tolerance. This resistor is 1000 Ohms with a tolerance of 1%. You can also call this a 1K Ohm resistor.

Before the resistor can be placed in the footprint on the board, the leads must be bent. It is important to not bend the lead right next to the package. The lead can break off inside the package or crack the package. Use your needle noise pliers as shown in the photo below. Hold the pliers tip next to the package then bend the lead to produce a nice sharp 90 degree angle.

Figure 13 – Resistor – R1 and R2 Value

Figure 14 - Bending Axial Leads

The LED current is determined by Resistor - R1, R36. The more current through the LED---the brighter. The LED in the Super Fly has current rating of 20mA for maximum brightness. Personally, I don’t like super bright LEDs in a night club situation. Some of the LEDs are so bright; I cannot see the effect panel. The current in this LED is 7mA. This is bright enough to see it but not so bright that you can’t see anything on the pedal.



Calculate LED current with this equation. (V+ - VF )/ R1. V+ = 9V, VF is the forward voltage of the LED. This is minimum voltage require to make the LED start conducting. This LED has a forward voltage of 2.1Volts. And, R1 is 1000.

(9 – 2.1)/1000 = 0.0069A or 6.9mA. The resistor to use for maximum brightness would be as follows.

(9-2.1)/0.020 = 345 ohms. This is not a standard 1% resistor value. The nearest value is 348 ohms. 0.020 is another way to write 20mA.

Diode – D1 This diode is used to protect against reverse polarity from the voltage supply. Many times when you try to connect the battery to the snap, the terminals may not line up positive to positive. This reverse voltage can damage components. This scheme is controversial in some circles. Placing a wire across the terminals of a battery causes the battery to conduct lots of current for a short duration. The wire could heat up and burn in half. The same thing can happen to the diode. When the diode burns in half, the reverse voltage is applied to your circuit and damages components any way. We have included a current limiting resistor R2 to prevent this situation. This circuit is considered as optional.

Figure 15 - Diode - D1 Polarity Band

The diode has a polarity. The diode has a white band on one end. This is the cathode. The unmarked terminal is called an anode. The diode allows current to flow in one direction. Positive current flows from the anode to the cathode.

Bend the leads on D1 the same way you did for R1. Go ahead and bend the leads for R2 and put both components in the board. Solder R1, D1 and R2 at the same time as shown in the following photo. After the soldering is done, go ahead and trim the leads. Use your cutters and trim just above the solder joint. Try not to cut into the joint itself.



Figure 16 - Soldering Resistor and Diode Leads All At Once

Figure 17 - Cut Leads After Soldering



Footswitches – SW1, SW2 All the soldering principles you have learned up till now apply to the footswitch as well. Hold the soldering iron on the pin of the footswitch to get it hot enough to take the solder. The main consideration for the footswitch is to make sure it is flush to the PCB. Solder one hole and make sure the footswitch is flush with the PCB. Solder the rest of the holes being sure that the footswitch remains flush to the PCB.

Figure 18 - Heat Up Footswitch Pin

Figure 19 - Footswitch is Flush to PCB



DC Jack - J3 This jack is used to switch between the external DC voltage or a battery. The key for this component is to make sure it is aligned on the footprint of the PCB. The holes are very large and can take a lot of solder. The component has a fair amount of movement in the holes. It is also placed very close to the input jack. Proper alignment guarantees the DC Jack will have clearance with the enclosure hole. Solder one hole and make sure the jack lines up to the footprint and is flush to the PCB. Solder the other two holes in the same way.

Figure 20 - DC Jack Alignment on Footprint

Figure 21 - Large Holes on DC Jack



Input/Output Jacks – J1, J2 Both of these components are identical. Either one will work in either position. Make sure you solder it in with the opening facing out from the PCB. Solder one hole then make sure the jack is flush with the PCB. Then solder another hole, and check that the jack is still flush. Then solder the other holes. Make sure that the connector is flush to the PCB. The opening needs to align with the enclosure hole.

Figure 22 - 1/4" Audio Input/Out Jack



LED and Standoff – LED1, LED2 LED1 is another component on the Super Fly with a polarity. Place the standoff on the LED and solder it in observing that the flat side lines up with the “-“ on the PCB. The LED should be standing as straight and perpendicular to the PCB as possible. There is a decent amount of tolerance on the enclosure it the LED alignment isn’t perfect.

Figure 23 - LED1 Polarity

Figure 24 - LED and Standoff

Figure 25 - LED1 PCB Footprint



Battery Snap – BATT1 The battery snap footprint provides a simple strain relief. The battery snap leads should be put into the large hole from underneath the PCB then each lead soldered into the respective hole. This provides a strain releif if the snap is acidently tugged. The PCB is clearly marked with the positive and negative terminals, as well as, lead colors.

Again, just a small amount of solder goes a long way. The battery snap leads are pre-tinned so try not to heat the leads too much as the insulation will melt.

You can install the battery snap as a last step in the build to keep it out of the way during assembly.

Figure 26 - Battery Snap PCB Footprint

Figure 27 – Battery Snap Strain Relief



Figure 28 - Completed Power and I/O Section



Stage 1 Input Amplifier Section



Resistors R3, R4, R9, R5, R6 R7, R24, R13, R8 These resistors are carbon film resistors just like the original Super Fuzz. They provide bias for the input stage transistors.

R3 = 22K, red, red, orange, gold

R4, R9 = 47K, yellow, purple, orange, gold

R5 = 1.8K, brown, gray, red, gold

R6, R7 = 100K, brown, black, yellow, gold

R13 = 10K, brown, black, orange, gold

R8 = 330K, orange, orange, yellow, gold

R24 = 3.3K, red, red, orange, gold



Capacitors C3, C4, C5, C13, C15 Capacitor C3 is a metalized polypropylene film. The frequency and value are very stable value over temperature. Capacitor C4 and C5 are aluminum electrolytic. They are relatively large capacitance for a small package. They handle low frequencies, such as audio, well. These capacitors are polarized so they must be placed correctly to operate. The notched end is the positive terminal. The PCB reflects the shape of the cap.

C3, C4, C5 = 10uF

C13 = 100nF = 0.1uF

C15 = 1nF = 0.001uF

Transistor Q1, Q6 The 2SC828 transistor is a small signal, medium gain silicon device. The transistor can handle peak currents of peak 100mA and dissipate 400mW. It is the type found in the Super Fuzz we reverse engineered. Leave some lead length between the transistor and the PCB. This allows you to get a test probe on the leads.



Figure 29 - Completed Input Amplifier Section



Stage 2 Phase Splitter Section



Resistors R10, R11, R12, R14, R21, R22 These resistors are carbon film resistors just like the original Super Fuzz. They provide bias for the phase splitter stage transistors. Each resistor has a set of color bands that represent the value and tolerance of the resistor. Bend the leads just like the LED resistor and diode.

R10, R12 = 10K, brown, black, orange, gold

R11 = 200K, red, black, yellow, gold

R14 = 150K, brown, green, yellow, gold

R21, R22 = 470, yellow, purple, brown, gold



Capacitors C7, C8, C14

Transistor Q4



Figure 30 – Completed Phase Splitter Section



Stage 3 Differential Amplifier Section



Resistors R15, R16, R17, R18, R19, R20 These resistors are carbon film resistors just like the original Super Fuzz. They provide bias for the differential amplifier stage transistors. Each resistor has a set of color bands that represent the value and tolerance of the resistor. Bend the leads just like the LED resistor and diode.


R16, R19 = 22K, red, red, orange, gold


R20 = 1.8K, brown, gray, red, gold



Capacitors C6, C9

Transistor Q2, Q3



Figure 31 - Completed Differential Amplifier Section



Stage 4 Diode Clipping Section



Capacitors C10

Diodes D2, D3 These diodes have a polarity. The black line on the diode should be lined up with the white line on the PCB footprint.



Figure 32 - Completed Clipping Section



Stage 5 Notch Filter Section



Resistors R23, R26, R29, R30 These resistors are carbon film resistors just like the original Super Fuzz. They provide bias for the differential amplifier stage transistors. Each resistor has a set of color bands that represent the value and tolerance of the resistor. Bend the leads just like the LED resistor and diode.

R23 = 47K, yellow, purple, orange, gold

R29 = 22K, red, red, orange, gold

R26, R30 = 10K, brown, black, orange, gold

Capacitors C16, C17

C16 = 100nF = 0.1uF



C17 = 1nF = 0.001uF

Figure 33 - Completed Notch Filter Section



Stage 6 Output Amplifier Section



Resistors R31, R32, R33, R44, R35 These resistors are carbon film resistors just like the original Super Fuzz. They provide bias for the phase splitter stage transistors. Each resistor has a set of color bands that represent the value and tolerance of the resistor. Bend the leads just like the LED resistor and diode.



R33 = 15K, brown, green, orange, gold

R34 = 1K, brown, black, red, gold



Capacitors C11, C12

Transistor Q5



Figure 34 - Completed Output Amplifier Section



Potentiometer VR24, VR25 The potentiometers come with an alignment tab that needs to be removed. It is designed to be snapped off. It should come off with a gentle twist. The leads on the potentiometer are large and require a little time to heat up to allow the solder to flow. Be sure the potentiometer is parallel PCB.



Figure 35 – Completed Super Fly



Mechanical Assembly The primary critical dimension when you are ready to assemble the enclosure with the completed PCB is the distance from the PCB to the top of the nut on the footswitch as shown in the following photo. The inside nut on the footswitch determines the clearance inside the enclosure and how the DC jack is centered in the hole. The height is 13/16” or 0.8”. The nut position will determine how level the PCB is inside the enclosure.

Figure 36 - Footswitch Nut Height

The diagram below shows the preferred washer/nut stackup. Place the flat washer on the outside of the enclosure and the lock washer on the inside. This provides a nice aesthetic to complement your newly painted enclosure and will minimize paint damage. The inside nut and lock washer provides maximum gripping power. There is almost nothing worse than your footswitch coming loose during a gig!

Footswitch Shaft

Outside Nut

Inside NutLock WasherEnclosureFlat Washer

Figure 37 - Footswitch Washer Stackup



The ¼” input/output connectors provide a pivot point for the PCB. A couple of tries may be necessary to get the PCB level with the enclosure and square things up.

Figure 38 - Level the PCB

An indication that everything is lined up properly is the DC jack will be centered in the hole.

Figure 39 - Center DC Jack Pin In Hole

Don’t tighten anything down until the PCB fits right and is level. Tighten the footswitch first then the Input/Output jacks then the potentiometer last. Check the spacing between the PCB and the wall of the enclosure to make sure it is evenly spaced. There should be a slight gap between the PCB and the enclosure. Don’t forget to finish the build with the exterior LED retainer bushing. The interior LED retainer ring is not used.



Figure 40 - Super Fly Completed



Testing the Super Fly Turn the volume knob down all the way. Insert the DC jack or install a battery. Insert a guitar cable into the input jack. This connects the DC ground to complete the circuit to the LED. The LED will not illuminate without a cable plugged into the input. Either the yellow LED should illuminate or the LED will be off. Step on the footswitch to get the LED to come on.

Plug in the output cable and connect to your amplifier. Turn up the volume knob slowly while strumming your guitar. The volume should get louder as you turn the knob. Watch out because the pedal packs a volume boost punch. Step on the foot switch and the LED should go off and the guitar volume should return to normal.

Trouble Shooting Tips LED does not illuminate Is the LED properly oriented in the PCB? Is the input cable making good contact to complete the ground? Does the DC Jack have a center ground? Is the battery snap wired to the proper terminals on the PCB? Are all the pins of the input jack soldered to the PCB? No sound at all Is the transistor properly oriented in the PCB? Are all the resistors and capacitors soldered to the PCB? Are the output cables making good contact with the jack?



Figure 41 - Single Hole Dimensions

This drawing may not be to scale.

Potentiometer clearance hole 0.2953” = 7.5mm



Returns and Exchanges

Log into your account, find the original order and follow the online instructions to start the RMA process.

Parts that are defective or parts that are missing from the kits will be replaced up to 30 days from the date of purchase. Include the defective/missing part numbers in the comments field during the RMA process.

We will gladly accept the return of kits for a full refund for 15 days from the date of purchase.

• The buyer is responsible for return shipping on all returned orders. • Returned orders that do not have an RMA number will be declined. • Orders returned that are not in the original packaging will be charged a 15% restocking fee. • Orders returned that are not in the original packaging and missing parts will be declined. • Orders that have been used (the assembly process has been started) cannot be returned for any reason. • Partial refunds are not allowed.

A Bust Em’ Out Project - RetroTone · A Bust Em’ Out Project . ... Super Fly PCB Pak 4000-0033...

Documents

Transcript of A Bust Em’ Out Project - RetroTone · A Bust Em’ Out Project . ... Super Fly PCB Pak 4000-0033...