Flyin’ Miata FM IIa turbo kit installationinstructions for 1999-00 Miatas

with 2 catalytic converters

Revision 1.111-17-04

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ContentsIntroduction........................................................................ 3Tool and Equipment Requirements................................... 4Disassembly ...................................................................... 5Reposition Power Steering Fluid Reservoir....................... 7Oil Return Line .................................................................. 8Section 3: Intake Manifold and Fuel Lines ....................... 9Oil Supply ........................................................................ 13Mount Turbocharger ....................................................... 14Oil Lines ........................................................................ 17Water Lines ..................................................................... 18Signal Source Fitting ....................................................... 18Mount Intercooler ............................................................ 19Intercooler Tubes ............................................................ 20Section 12: Turbo Inlet Piping ........................................ 22Boost Gauge ................................................................... 24Miscellaneous.................................................................. 24Link Piggyback ECU and Boost Control Solenoid........... 26General Rules of Operation............................................. 27

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Introduction

Thank you for purchasing this Flyin’ Miata turbo system. We regard the installation as a mutual proj-ect and will be pleased to offer help at any time. We remain committed to making this a suc cess ful and enjoyable experience for all concerned. These instructions will offer the installer a guide for the installation and operation of the Flyin’ Miata tur bo charg er system.

STOP!Please read through these directions entirely. Evaluate your own skills honestly and decide whether this installation is something that you are comfortable doing. Re al ize that you are dou bling the horse-power of your car and the consequences of improper installation could destroy your engine. To install this kit safely, you must have a fi rm grasp of how cars work. Proper tool use is critical. We are more than willing to help anyone install this kit, but you must be honest with yourself with respect to your skill level before you jump into the deep end.

The success of this installation will be determined by a variety of factors. These in struc tions should be adhered to unless reasonable cause for deviation exists. The vehicle must be in excellent condition and in proper tune prior to starting the installation. Do not attempt to install this kit on a car that is not run ning properly . Before installation, fi x any problems. This will help pre vent our kit getting blamed for pre-existing conditions. Care and at ten tion to detail by the in stall er are of ex treme im por tance. The daily op er a tor of the vehicle must ob serve all op er a tion al guidelines.

Inventory all the components when the kit arrives. We strive to ensure all the com po nents are in-cluded in the kit, but if a part is left out you will want to know it before you are looking for it during the installation.

Prior to starting the installation, go through 2 tanks of the highest octane fuel available. Do not dilute with lesser octane fuel al ready in the tank. If nec es sary, drain the tank. Using lower octane fuel will result in knock that could damage the engine.

All left or right directional references will be from the driver view point. If clar i fi ca tion of these instruc-tions is required, please con tact us at 970-242-3800 or via e-mail to tech@flyinmiata.com. Sugges-tions for im prove ments of these instructions are wel come. Please make notes on the instruction set and mail to: Flyin’ Miata, 331 South 13th Street, Grand Junction, CO 81501.

These instructions and the operational requirements for this system must be reviewed with the owner-driver prior to delivery of the vehicle to the end user.

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Tool and Equipment Requirements

Every project on your Miata presents the opportunity to purchase more tools. Below are the tools you will need for the successful installation of this turbo kit.

metric open/box wrenches oil fi lter and oil changemetric socket set spray can of cleaning solventstandard open/box wrenches clean ragsassorted slot and Phillips screw drivers hand drill with 1⁄2” chuckmetric allen wrenches silicone sealant (high temp)teflon tape loctite (blue)floor jack fac to ry shop man u al or equivalentjack stands x 4 duct tape one quart of mineral spirits

Preliminary1) Raise the car and support with jack stands.

2) Drain coolant. There is a drain plug in the center of the bottom of the radiator.

3) Drain the motor oil. Install the new fi lter, temporarily reinstall the drain plug.

4) Disconnect the battery.

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Disassembly

1) Remove the air box and mass air meter assembly as a unit. Remove the mass air meter from the box. The air fl ow meter is fragile, treat it with care.

2) Remove the air temperature sensor and its rubber grommet from the air box. Do not touch the sens ing el e ment.

3) Remove the cross tube going to the throttle body and the rubber hose going to the breather. Keep the cross tube handy, it will be reused later in the installation.

4) Remove the windscreen washer bottle. Re move the hose from the pump and tie it off. Leave it hang in the corner of the engine bay. It will be reconnected later in the installation process.

5) Remove the exhaust manifold heat shield. Spray penetrating oil on the fasteners on the exhaust system from the manifold to the inlet to the second catalytic converter as all these fasteners will be removed. Also, spray the two O2 sensors.

6) Under the car, un-bolt the pipe from the outlet of the fi rst catalytic converter to the inlet of the second catalytic converter. Disconnect the pipe from the bracket at tached to the trans mis sion.

7) Remove the two O2 sensors. Keep track of the positions of each one. The one before the catalytic converter needs to be positioned before the catalytic converter after the turbo is installed.

8) Remove the EGR pipe from the motor. There are three connections. One at the rear of the intake manifold, one at the rear of the #4 runner on the ex haust manifold, and a bracket on the rear of the head. The stock EGR pipe will be re placed later with a new pipe in clud ed with the turbo kit.

9) Remove the nuts se cur ing the ex- haust man i fold to the head. Remove the man i fold and the fi rst cat by lifting it up out of the top of the en gine bay. Plug the ex haust ports with rags.

10) With the manifold on the fl oor or a work bench, label the catalytic converter as shown in the photo. This will make aligning the cat on the turbo much easier. Remove the cat from the ex haust manifold and save the metal gasket, it will be used again.

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11) Remove the lower splash pan and the black radiator inlet duct.

12) Remove the bracket for the downpipe on bellhousing, see photo on the right. Re place the bellhousing bolts. The bracket will not be re used.

13) Remove the bracket beneath the fl ow meter/air fi lter box. This brack et is con nect ed to the black plastic shield that holds two re-lays. Re move the relays from the plastic and remove the plastic.

14) Remove the horn and its bracket, let the horn hang from its wire for now.

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Reposition Power Steering Fluid ReservoirBag to use: #16

The power steering fl uid reservoir needs to be moved from the original location to the same location on the opposite side of the engine bay.

1) The fl uid must be drained from the reservoir but there is no easy and clean way to do it. Position a bucket under the reservoir, pull off the larger hose and get out of the way.

2) Attach the reservoir bracket #30809 to the frame on the right side of the engine bay. One of the 6mm x 20mm bolts can go into a hole al ready thread ed. The sec ond bolt needs a nut and is right on the inboard ledge of the frame rail.

3) Unbolt the reservoir from the body. Mount it on the bracket installed in the previous step. Reuse the original bolts.

4) Pull the original 5/8” line off of the PWS pump and add the new 65” inch line. Route it across the engine down on top of the sway bar and up to the res er voir po- si tion. Trim the length as re quired. Se cure both ends with the 15-24mm hose clamps.

5) Pull the smaller PWS line off the frame mounted metal tube. Attach a new 3/8” line and run it over to the PWS res er voir. Trim length as required and secure with the 13-20mm clamps.

6) The hose will be close to the downpipe once the turbo is installed. Cover the new 5/8” hose where it makes the U-turn with heat shield material to protect it from the heat of the downpipe.

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Oil Return LineBags to use: #2C, #5A

Drilling and threading a hole in the oil sump is a perfectly safe process when done correctly. In a per-fect world we would all the pull the pan to drill the hole, but it is an awful lot of work. Should any shav- ings slip through, they will fi nd it very diffi cult to get off the bottom of the sump and into the oil pickup through the fi ne screen on the pickup tube. The drain hole location is 2” below the upper lip and as far forward on the left side of the sump as possible, directly under the A/C compressor bracket (if so equipped). See picture below. If you have com pressed air that you can regulate, set pressure to 5psi and connect a hose to valve cover breather on left side of valve cover. Drill until the bit just breaks through, then up pressure to 10psi. Keep the air blowing while you drill and tap the hole. DO NOT use pressure over 10psi at any time. More pres sure will blow the seals out of the engine! If you do not have compressed air that you can regulate, it is recommended to drop the oil pan to drill the hole.

1) Drill the hole with the .578” (37/64”) di am e ter bit. It may be easier to start with a small er drill, then work up to the larger bit. STOP DRILLING AS SOON AS YOU BREAK THROUGH! It is possible to hit the oil pick-up tube if you con tin ue through. This is not a good thing, as it will cause loss of oil pressure. A good way to stop the bit from going too far is to wrap the bit with mask ing, elec-trical or duct tape about 1/4” from its end.

2) Keeping the compressed air running, tap the threads with the 3/8 NPT tap. Grease the tap to help collect the shavings. Clean and re-apply grease regularly. Sink the tap until three threads on the tap re main out side the wall of the sump.

3) Clean the surfaces as thor ough ly as pos si ble.

4) Put JB Weld epoxy or sil i cone sealant on the threads of the 3/8NPT-5/8” hose barb and screw it in tightly. Grease the inside of the 5/8” hose and slide it onto the fi tting and route the hose upward so that it can be ac- cess ed from the engine com part ment.

5) Make sure the oil drain plug is out and there is a clean catch pan under the oil sump. Attach a funnel to the top of the hose and pour the min er al spirits down through the hose. This will clean out any shav ings that may have gotten into the oil pan.

6) Allow the solvent to drain for approximately 15 minutes before replacing the sump plug. Remove the hose from the sump and set it aside for later use. If the hose is diffi cult to remove, cut it at the barb. The length of hose is a few inches longer than necessary.

Section 3: Intake Manifold and Fuel LinesBag to use: #15

The turbo kit includes a new lower half of the intake manifold. The old manifold must be taken apart to add the new lower half. You will be work ing very close to the starter and the power wires going to it. Make sure the battery is dis con nect ed at this point.

1) Remove the fuel fi ller cap to relieve pres sure in the fuel system.

2) Start the removal process by dis con nect ing the PCV hose and the brake booster hose. Remove the following items shown in the photos.

3) Remove the six bolts that secure the upper half of the intake manifold to the lower half. There are three long ones on the inside and three short ones on the outside.

4) Remove the upper half of the intake manifold, as shown above. The throttle body has water lines at tached to it. They can be left con nect ed by tilting the upper half for-ward as shown in the photo on the right.

5) The lower half of the manifold can now be re moved. Nine nuts hold the manifold to the en gine, four on the bottom and fi ve on the top. These nuts are dif fi cult to ac cess, but with pa tience they can be re moved. The lower nuts are easiest removed from below using a 3/8” socket with a 6” extension. To access the top nuts, pull back the plastic con-duit for the fuel injector wires. Then use an offset wrench to re move the nuts. Be care ful when reach ing around the man i fold. There are many sharp edges on the cast ing that can cut your skin.

6) Before re in stall ing the manifold, jump to the next section, Installing the Oil Source, and do that now. It is much easier with the man i fold off the car.

7) Take the old manifold lower half to a bench and move all the components from the old manifold over to the new manifold. Don’t forget the vacuum hose on the inside with the check valve in it. This one is very diffi cult to install after the manifold is mounted to the engine.

8) Instatll the new lower manifold and the upper man i fold to the engine. Reinstall all the parts taken off the manifold except the EGR pipe. It will be reinstalled later.

9) Fuel for the auxiliary injectors will be picked up from the factory fuel lines on the pas sen ger side of the engine bay. There you will fi nd a short section of hose, wrapped in soft foam, con nect ing two for ward facing hose barbs. Cut a slice in the thin plastic hose to remove it from both hose barbs.

10) Route two pieces of 3/8” fuel line from the two plastic hose barbs to the brass hose barbs on the aux il ia ry fuel rail. Use the photo at the right for hose routing. Re tain with 3/8” clamps and make sure they are tight. The fuel is under high pres sure and leaks can be disastrous.

11) Route two pieces of the 3/8” fuel line from the two plastic hose barbs to the brass hose barbs on the aux il ia ry fuel rail. The hoses are outlined in green for illustration in the photo below. Flow di rec tion is not im por tant. Retain with 13-20mm clamps and make sure they are tight. The fuel is un der high pres sure and leaks can be di sas trous.

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Oil SupplyBag to use: #4B

The oil supply system is the lifeblood of the turbo. When running the oil supply line make sure to stay clear of heat sources and not to sharply bend the line. The oil sup- ply will tap into the oil galley at the oil pressure sensor located under the intake manifold be tween cylinders #2 & #3.

1) Remove the oil pressure sensor using a 15/16” socket.

2) Put the 1/8NPT “T” in a vice and attach the oil fi tting, #36-50200. The threaded end op po site the groove goes into the “T” fi tting. Next add the oil pres sure sender as shown to the right. Do not install the union at this time. Do not use teflon tape here as a small piece of it could fi nd its way into the oil system and plug up an oil pas- sage. Instead, use a small amount of seal ant on the threads.

3) Thread this assembly into the en gine block, again using sealant on the threads. When tight en ing the assembly, make sure the hole for the union faces aft.

4) Once the “T” fi tting is installed in the engine, screw the union, #36-50160, into the “T” fi tting.

5) Connect the oil supply line to the union and run it up to the top of the engine. Cover the end with a small bag for now.

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Mount Turbocharger Bag to use: #8B

The tur bo charg er, ex haust man i fold and tur bine outlet cast ing have been pre-as sem -bled at Fly in’ Mi a ta. This com plete as sem bly will be mount ed onto the engine. The assembly will look like the photo below.

1) Wrap the heater hose located aft of the exhaust manifold with in su la tion. Safety wire the in su la tion se cure ly in place. A stapler will suffi ce if no safety wire is available.

2) Wrap insulation around the brake line at the left side frame rail as it turns down to go under the car. Se cure with safety wire. Do not use tie wraps, as they will melt.

3) Lu bri cate the inside of the 5/8” oil drain line with grease. Slide the oil drain hose onto the fi tting and secure with a 15-24mm hose clamp. Cover the top 3” of the hose with heat shield ma te ri al. Se cure with safety wire.

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4) Add the water hoses to the turbo.The inboard hose should be 30” longand the outboard hose 36” long. Retain with the 5/16” clamps. The outboard fi tting has pur pose ly been left loose. Remove it and add the hose. This fi tting will be in stalled after the turbo is mount ed to the engine.

5) Cover the top 3” of the water hoses and the oil drain line with heat shield fabric. Se cure with safety wire.

6) Re move the rags from the ex haust ports.

7) Remember labeling the catalytic converter with “TOP” during the dis as -sem bly process? That label will make installation easier by ensuring proper orientation of the cat. Bolt the cat a lyt ic con vert er to the downpipe using the 10mm x 35mm bolts and 10mm nuts. Reuse the original metal gasket.

8) In stall the ex haust man i fold, turbo, downpipe, and cat into the engine bay. Re use the orig i nal gas ket be tween head and man i fold. Once the manifold is on the studs, attach the water by pass tube brack et to the exhaust stud, as it was originally con fi g ured.

8) Secure the manifold with the fac-tory nuts. Start with the center nut and move out to the ends in an al ter nat ing se quence.

9) Fit the EGR pipe into the rear of the exhaust man i fold and then to the rear of the intake man i fold. Don’t forget the con nec tion at the rear of the head.

10) Install the cat-to-cat pipe, #30808, to the outlet of the catalytic converter. Re use the original studs and lock nuts.

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11) Install the O2 sensor originally located before the catalytic converter in the hole on the bottom of the exhaust manifold. Be careful not to twist the wires while screwing it in.

12) Install the O2 sensor originally located after the catalytic converter into the hole in the cat-to-cat pipe.

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Oil Lines Bags to use: #4B, #5A

1) Route the drain hose down out-board of the steering shaft and on to the fi tting at the sump. Ensure that the drain hose al ways trav els down hill and does not in ter fere with the steering shaft. The hose will need to be trimmed for a per-fect fi t. Secure with a 15-24mm clamp.

2) Route the oil supply line across the rear of the engine on the fi rewall and around the rear of the turbo. Attach it to the swivel fi tting on the turbo. Slit the 18” piece of hose and put it around the hose where it would otherwise contact the brake master cylinder and brake lines. Retain with a single 8-14mm hose clamp. Tighten the oil line onto the swivel fi tting.

3) Tie wrap the oil line in a few places along the fi re wall and do not let it touch the turbine hous ing.

Caution: The stainless steel braid will chafe com plete ly through brake lines, hoses and body met al. Ensure that the line is not allowed to rub on anything that would not be damage tolerant.

4) Reinstall the belly pan.

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Water LinesBag to use: #3A

The Garrett turbo is wa ter cooled and oil cooled. This is the rea son it will live well past 100,000 miles with mod est care. The water for the turbo will be picked up at the front of the engine.

1) Under the thermostat housing, remove the small water hose that connects the ther- mo stat hous ing to the small con nec tion about six inches below.

2) Route the inboard turbo water line to the upper hose fi tting on the thermostat hous- ing. Secure with a 5/16” clamp

3) Route the outboard turbo water line to the lower water hose con nec tion. Se cure with a 5/16” clamp.

Signal Source FittingBag to use: #10A

1) The signal source fi tting is placed into the hose at the brake vacuum assist unit directly behind the master cylinder res er -voir. Cut a segment out of the hose about 3/4” in board of the check valve. Install the fi tting and point the two small barbs down. Secure with two 13-20mm clamps. This fi tting will be used for any boost or vac u um signals that will be need ed by the car or the turbo kit. This will include the BOV, boost gauge and cruise control. Be sure to cap any unused ports.

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Mount IntercoolerBags to use: #6C, #7C, #9B

1) For reasons of airflow, the hose bosses on the intercooler are larger than the con- nect ing steel tubes. This requires some effort to get the hoses in place. The best tech nique is to cock the hose on the boss, reach inside the hose with two fingers and pull the hose out ward onto the boss. Install the 2-1/4” silicone con nect ing hoses, #36-60025, to both ends of the intercooler with the 52-76mm clamps before in stall ing the in ter cool er.

2) Working space or lack thereof, re quires tube #30708 to be installed onto the IC inlet before plac ing it into position. Use 52-76mm clamps and tight en the clamps with an 8mm socket to get them as tight as pos si ble without stripping the threads.

3) Remove both tiedown hooks in the nose of the car if they are still present. The inter-cooler mounts in front of the radiator, using the rearmost hole from the tiedown hook on each side. The hardware to mount the intercooler is attached to one of the arms. Note: If the car is fitted with power steer ing, the fluid cooler will need to be bent for ward to clear the intercooler.

4) Reinstall the black plastic radiator inlet duct. Cut the top half of the duct off. Then cut a 17-1/2” x 3-3/4” rect- an gle out of the lower portion of the duct 4” from the left side. Cut a 2” x 2” piece out of the left side as well. After installing the duct, attach the lower tab on the intercooler to the hole in the nose of the car. At tach with the fac to ry bolt.

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Intercooler TubesBags to use: #6D, #7D, #9B

There usually exists some confusion regarding the sequence of the intercooler tubes. The tubes are numbered and are called by the order with which they progress from the turbo. The sequence is as follows:

Compressor out tube #1 30806 First out of turboCompressor out tube #2 30807 Second tube attaches to IC inletIntercooler 30709IC out tube #1 30710 First tube out of ICThrottle inlet 30711FM Attaches to throttle body

If you choose to remove the tube numbers, lacquer thinner, acetone, or spray carb cleaner will remove the ink without injuring the powder coating.

All of the IC pipes have beads around the ends of the pipes. When fi tting the pipes make sure the hose clamp gets tightened with the bead to the in-side of the clamp and with the silicon fully under the hose clamp. The best situation is to have both pipes touch-ing each other, but this is not always possible. A gap is acceptable as long as the bead is inboard of the clamp. Leave all the connections loose un-til all the pipes are fi tted to allow for some adjustment.

1) Attach the throttle body inlet pipe, #30711FM to the throttle body us-ing the 2-1/2” di am e ter silicone hose, #36-60030. Secure with the 59-83mm clamps.

2) Install the IC outlet pipe, #30710, from the in ter cool er to the throttle body pipe. Use a piece of the 2” x 3” silicone hose, #36-60010 and the 52-76mm hose clamps. This pipe goes through the opening in the fender liner.3) On the compressor outlet fi t a 2” x 2” silicone hose, #36-60015, and secure with a 52-76mm clamp.

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4) Put comp. outlet pipe #1, 30806, in this piece of silicone and position it so that the bypass valve fi tting and the opposite end point forward.

5) Use a piece of the 1-3/8” silicone hose, 36-6000, and two 33-57mm hose clamps, 36-70000, to attached the bypass valve to comp outlet pipe #1. Position the outlet of the bypass valve up.

6) A small notch will need to be cut out of the lower nose section to clear the sec-ond compressor outlet pipe.

7) Fit a 2” x 3” piece of silicone hose, 36-60010, on the other end of comp outlet pipe #1. Fit the larger diameter end of comp outlet pipe #2, 30807, into the inlet of the intercooler. Si mul ta neous ly, en gage the silicone hose on the end of comp inlet pipe #1. When both pipes are po si tioned, secure all the joints with 52-76mm clamps.

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Section 12: Turbo Inlet PipingBags to use: #6D, #7D, #10A, #12C, #13A

1) Attach the 4mm silicone vacuum hose to the barb on the bypass valve. The hose is slight ly small for this application, but a small amount of lube will allow it to slide onto the barb easily. Drape the hose over the cam cover for now.

2) Mount the baffl e to the left side of the engine bay using two factory 6mm bolts.

3) Take the 4mm vacuum hose from the bypass valve and run in over the left side of the engine bay under the baffl e. Run it up to the signal source fi tting in the brake boost-er line. Secure the hose along the way with a few zip ties.

4) Screw the two rubber iso la tors to the mass air meter. Mount the mass air meter to the baffl e by the isolators and two 6mm nuts.

5) Fit the 2-1/4” x 2” piece of silicone hose, 36-60020, to the inlet of the turbo. Secure it with a 52-76mm clamp.

6) Cut about 1” off the old crossover tube where it mounted to the mass air meter. Slip this over the outlet of the mass air meter. This will act as a gasket for the new comp inlet pipe.

7) The small end of the compressor inlet pipe, #30805, fi ts to the com pres sor inlet and the large end slip-fi ts onto the mass air meter with the end of the rubber hose as a gas-ket.

8) Place the sec ond 1-3/8” silicone hose and two 33-57mm hose clamps onto the outlet port of the by pass valve.

9) Install the 1/8NPT 90-degree 3/8” hose barb , #36-50063, into the com pres sor inlet pipe. Position this fi tting so it points inboard and aft when the pipe is held in po si tion.

10) Mount the compressor inlet pipe, #30805, into the turbo inlet. Simultaneously, en gage the bypass outlet to the fi tting on the com pres sor inlet pipe and the outlet of the mass air meter to the inlet of the compressor inlet pipe.

11) Insert the air temperature sensor rubber grommet into the hole in the compressor inlet tube. Plug the factory harness into the mass air meter. Tie off the extra wire to keep it from touching the fan belt.

Note: Ensure the compressor inlet pipe dose not touch the radiator. If it does, shorten the 2-1/4” silicone hose at the inlet of the turbo to move the inlet pipe aft.

11) Tighten down the hose clamps on the compressor inlet and the bypass valve when the compressor inlet pipe is positioned properly.

12) Fit the air fi lter to the inlet of the mass air meter using the suppled hose clamp.

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Boost GaugeBags to use: #11A, #12B

1) Mount the boost gauge in the cup. The fi t should be tight so no mounting hardware is required.

2) Run the vacuum hose, supplied with the gauge, from the gauge down between the dash and the doorframe. Insert a tube from a can of WD-40 into the end of the hose at the boost gauge. This will keep the hose from being pinched as it goes between the cup and the “A” pillar.

3) Cut the supplied wire in half and connect each length to one of the wires on the bulb in the boost gauge with the supplied butt connectors. Run these wires to the dimmer in the dashboard. The dimmer switch can be easily popped out of the dash by pressing from behind.

4) Use the quick splices to connect the two wires from the light to the two red wires go-ing to the dimmer control.

5) Fasten the cup to the “A” pillar with the black sheet metal screws.

6) Connect the vacuum hose to the signal source fi tting.

MiscellaneousBag to use: #12B

1) Cut the small hose coming out of the pe rim e ter of the carbon canister (round, black, coffee can looking con tain er on the right side fender). Insert one way check valve, ori- ent ed so that blue side points to the canister.

2) If the car has cruise control, cut the vac- u um hose going to the cruise control actua-tor and install the second one-way valve in the hose with the blue side toward the cruise unit.

3) Attach the heat shield.

4) Remove the spark plugs and set the gap down to .030”.

5) Reinstall cool ant drain plug and refi ll with 50/50 cool ant mixture. DO NOT use more than 50% an ti freeze, this will cause over- heat ing. Use just enough antifreeze for your par tic u lar winter con di tions.

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6) Make sure an oil fi lter is installed. Fill the engine with motor oil. No additional oil needs to be added for the turbo. The factory recommended 3.7 quarts is perfect. We strong ly recommend using synthetic oil with the turbo kit in a 10W40 or 20W50 weight.

26

Link Piggyback ECU and Boost Control Solenoid

1) Refer to the Flyin’ Miata piggyback ECU installation manual for instructions on install-ing these electronic components.

2) Once all electronics are installed and battery reconnected, have a helper start the carwhile you watch for coolant, oil or fuel leaks. As the car warms up, you will likely have a fair amount of smoke as greasy fi ngerprints burn off and paint cures.

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General Rules of Operation

Use the best premium fuel at all times.

If any sounds of rough combustion occur, cease using boost until the cause is iden ti fied and corrected.

Engine oil change interval for mineral base oils is 2500 miles. Synthetic base oils may extend the interval to 5000 miles. The synthetic oils are strongly recommended.

If you hear knock from the motor, lift off the throttle immediately. The forces from knock are the most damaging to an engine.

Keep an eye on the boost gauge. If you see the boost pres sure ex ceed ing your target boost level lift off the accelerator pedal.

Be kind to your transmission and differential. The stock transmission and dif fer en tial have proven reliable in high power cars provided “me chan i cal empathy” is ex er cised. This means no smoky burnouts from a standing stop and no “speed shifting”.