DELTA VEHICLE SYSTEMS | www.deltavs.com | Copyright 2020

DELTA VEHICLE SYSTEMS | 11971 V0.0A

91-97 Land Cruiser/LX450 Firewall Switch-Pro Mount

With Provided Stand-Off Panel

Optional Mounting Without Provided Stand-Off Panel

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Overview Congratulations on your purchase of the DELTA Vehicle Systems Firewall Switch-Pro Mount. This mount has been designed in CAD, CNC laser cut, formed, and powder coated 100% in the U.S.A.

Product Compatibility This product is compatible with the 1991-1997 Toyota Land Cruiser and Lexus LX450 – although 91-92 models require a little extra work.

Parts List Part Number Description Quantity 11860-1 Switch-Pro Mount Panel 1

11860-2 Stand-off Mount Panel 1

11860-3 Slotted Wire Chase Panel 1

11972 Ground Bus Bar 1

11974 4AWG Power Wire – 40” 1

11975 4AWG Ground Wire – 40” 1

11977 #10 16-14AWG Ring Terminal (Blue) 8

11978 #10 12-10AWG Ring Terminal (Yellow) 4

11979 3/8” Heat Shrink – 4” 1

11981 1/4” Braided Split Loom – 36” 1

Hardware List Part Number Description Quantity 10115 1/4”-20 Nyloc Nut 2

11354 1/4”-20 Button Cap Screw 8

10798 1/4”-20 Coupler Nut 4

11370 #10-24 Button Cap Screw 2

11970 #10-24 Nyloc Nut 2

10864 5.5” Zip Tie 20

10968 Aluminum Spacer 1

10978 M8 Bolt 1

11043 M8 Washer 1

10821 M8 Nyloc Nut 1

10312 M6 Bolt 2

11976 M6 Washer 2

Tools

• 5/16” (8mm), 10mm , 7/16” (11mm), 13mm sockets

• Socket wrench

• 3/8” Open-end wrench

• 1/8” Hex key wrench

• Philips head screwdriver

• Heat gun

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1 This kit comes with an optional stand-off panel. If you’re planning on installing the 8-circuit terminal block kit (DELTA no. 11984), you need the stand-off panel, but otherwise the decision is up to you. The top photo is without the stand-off panel. The bottom photo is with the stand-off panel & the 8-circuit terminal block, which is an optional add-on.

Decide Whether You Want the Stand-Off Panel

2 If you are installing without the stand-off panel, use two 1/4” button cap screws & the included 1/4” nyloc nuts to attach the two main panels together, with the button cap heads facing towards the back side. If you are installing with the stand-off panel, it’s the same process, except with two coupling nuts instead of the nyloc nuts. The CAD rendering shows how the stand-off panel will attach using the coupling nuts as spacers. The stand-off plate (dashed area) will be bolted on at a later step, but you can prepare by adding the other two coupling nuts on the other side of the wire chase panel.

Attach Switch-Pro Mount Panel to Slotted Panel

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3 If you’re installing without the stand-off plate, mount the ground bus bar to the top slots on the wire chase panel with the #10-24 hardware. If you’re installing with the stand-off plate, instead mount it to the top portion of the stand-off plate. If you’re also installing with the 8-circuit terminal block (DELTA no. 11984), you can mount it on the bottom portion of the stand-off plate, using the hardware included with it.

Mount Ground Bus Bar (& Optional Terminal Block)

4 Install the Switch-Pro SP9100 (not included) on its mount plate, using its included hardware.

Attach Switch-Pro

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5 The power cable included with the Switch-Pro installs to the stud as shown. However, it’s too short to do much with, so we included an extra 4AWG power cable. Disassemble the housing for the inline fuse, revealing the mounting studs, and replace the small end segment with our cable. You can then replace the housing. Note: 91-92 models and dual battery setups will require longer power cables, as the ones provided

assume a front left battery location.

Power Cable

6 At this point, you can install the rest of the cables included with the Switch-Pro and do some cable management with the included zip ties and split wire loom. If you’re installing the terminal block, you’ll want to split off the leads from the Switch-Pro for better organization. Careful not to set the heat shrink until you’re sure the wiring is where you want it – and don’t melt anything! Note that switches 1-4 are all single wires, while 5-8 have two wires each. You can refer to the Switch-Pro instructions (pg. 6) for the color coding. You should also now attach the SP ground lead to the ground bus bar, and attach the included 4AWG ground wire to the right stud.

Other Cables + Cable Management

Switch Panel 1-4 5-6 7-8 Lights/Ignition/Trigger

Ground to battery

Ground from SP

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7 Once you have all the cables where you want them, you can install the stand-off plate onto the coupling nuts with the remaining button cap screws. This is also an opportunity to install the included 4AWG ground wire onto the right stud of the bus bar. If you are doing this install without the terminal block, then you will have to use the butt splices included with the Switch-Pro for all of the wire connections, connecting the grounds to the bus bar as shown. This should be done after installing the mount to the firewall in the following steps.

Attach Stand-Off Plate

8 This step only applies if you have the 8-circuit terminal block (DELTA no. 11984). With the included ring terminals, wire each of the leads from the Switch-Pro to the terminal block (preferably in order from 1-8). This will allow you to easily manage the wiring for your electrical accessories. Don’t forget to set the heat shrink once you’re sure everything is wired properly – but be careful with the heat and detach the wires from the terminal block first! We tried to be lazy and shrink stuff while screwed down and we melted a terminal block. Don’t be like us.

Wire Terminal Block (if Applicable)

Common ground to battery

SP leads 1-8

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9 There are three holes in the firewall that the panel mounts to. Two of them are M6, and have factory bolts that need removed. You also need to unclip the wiper fluid line, or else it will interfere with the panel. There is also an M8 bolt holding the engine wiring harness to the firewall that needs to be removed. For 91-92 models: Unfortunately, Toyota did not include the M8 captured nut until 93 and later models. If you own a 91 or 92, you’ll have to drill your own hole and mount the M8 bolt with the included nut. That means removing your wipers and wiper cowl to get behind the firewall. Have fun!

Prepare Firewall

10 With everything now assembled and prepared, you can now install the panel in the firewall. The M6 bolts each need a washer between the head and the panel, and then simply thread into the firewall. The M8 also needs a washer, in addition to an aluminum spacer as shown. This’ll be a bit harder if you have a 91/92 since you’ll have to hold the nut in place from behind the firewall. Sorry.

Install Panel to Firewall

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11 The ground from the Switch-Pro should be wired to the bus bar, which should then be attached to the negative battery terminal via the main ground cable. Any additional wiring that needs grounds should be attached to the bus bar (don’t forget to put on the cover when you’re done!). The main power wire will go directly to the positive terminal. Zip tie along the fender to secure everything. Zip tie the wiper fluid line to the slots in the stand-off panel, if you have it. For the rest of the wiring, you can follow the instructions of your Switch-Pro or just do whatever you need to given your specific setup. Use the butt splices included with the Switch-Pro to connect its wires to your accessories.

Exterior Wiring

12 The Switch-Pro panel harness and 3 wires (ignition, lights, trigger) can be pulled through the OEM fire wall hole directly below the newly installed SP9100 mount. The Switch-Pro will need an ignition hook up. We like the tan switched power found on the power mirror switch (see white arrow). You can splice into the wire with the provided clips from switch-pros. Switch-Pro recommends a 5 amp fuse inline to the unit. We rely on the fusing from the Toyota “cig” fuse to do this job. If you want the SP9100 recommended fusing you will need to source your own fuse link and put it inline. The illumination signal can be spliced into the dimming switch (green wire) as seen in the upper pic. The trigger wire can be left unhooked unless you decide otherwise. Plug in your switch panel and you will now have switch power under the hood!

Interior Wiring

Gently pry/pop the mid panel off the main dashboard to access the back side of the switches for this step. Be careful as these parts are fragile.