5th Walk.pdf

8/12/2019 5th Walk.pdf

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The church of Aghia Aikaterini, in a period postcard1

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A street in old Thessaloniki2 with the Upper City in the background2 in an early 78 th century postcard9



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The restored building on Theo•lou Street, in the Upper City, home to the of•ces of the Deputy

Mayor for Culture on the Municipality of Thessaloniki.



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The Koule9Kafe district in the Upper City1 with the Byzantine bath on the right1 in an early ;< th century postcard=



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144



145

The UPPER CITY from OLYMPIADOS Street

to the ACROPOLIS WALLSand the EDGEof the EASTERN WALLS

5th WALK

Upper City The Upper City district, the northern and highest part of the old core

of Thessaloniki, has retained much of its historical character. It is built

on a hill, known as the Bair, featuring rocky ground and steep inclines.

The !rst evidence of occupation dates back to the 4th and 5th century,

when it began to be home to the Christian community. After the fall of

the city to the Turks in 1430, the population steadily declined until the

16th century, when it enjoyed a revival as a largely Turkish neighbour-

hood. The Upper City was above all residential in character, and in the

years following 1922, it became much more densely populated due to

the arrival of a large number of refugees from Asia Minor. The buildings

constructed here bear many of the features of Balkan architecture, while

the individual differentiations they present owe much to economic and

social factors. The great !re of 1917 did not affect the residential pat-

terns of the area. Problems appeared in the post-war era, with the exces-

sive use of urban land and the system of selling old houses and plots to

developers in exchange for an apartment in a new block. The noteworthy

buildings which have survived resemble isolated islands in a sea of de-

velopment, a testimony to the history of this picturesque part of the city,

still so rich in character.

Noteworthy buildings in the vicinity of the Church of AghiaAikaterini (1)

This north-western area of the Upper City corresponds more or less to

the old Turkish quarter of Yakub Pa"a – known for its many public foun-

tains, school, opium den, poorhouse and mosque with graveyard.

There are some noteworthy buildings scattered here and there along Pa-

padopoulou, Antigonis, Tsamadou and Sahtouri Streets, and also next

to the walls on Isminis Street. The features these buildings share, in

common with their counterparts all across the Upper City, are tradition-

al architecture with certain neoclassical features, sahnisia or projecting

upper #oors, symmetry of ground plans and facades, depending on thespecial character of each building and the size of the plot.



146

Church of Aghia Aikaterini (2)

This elegant Palaeologan church is one of the city’s mysteries, since its

Byzantine name is unknown and the historical sources make little ref-

erence to it, as is the case with a number of churches in Thessaloniki.

What we do know is that, in the reign of Bajazet II (1481-1512), it was

converted into a mosque by Beylerbey Yakup Pa!a, from whom it took its

Turkish name, i.e. Yakup Pa!a mosque. The evidence of the building it-

self suggests it was dedicated to Christ, and for this reason, some schol-

ars have identi"ed it with the catholicon of the Monastery of Christos

Pantodynamos. In terms of layout, the church belongs to the complex,

four-columned, cruciform inscribed type with an ambulatory, ending to

the east in two symmetrical chapels. The exterior surface of the walls is

richly varied, employing blind arches, conches, brick pilasters and ce-

ramic decoration, while a decorative strip of marble breaks the verticality

of the cubic core of the church. The building is dated by various scholars

to some time between the late 13th century and the third decade of the14th century. Restoration work carried out between 1947 and 1951 un-

covered wall paintings, preserved in fragmentary condition, for which a

dating of 1315 was proposed.

North-western, northern walls (3)

The Byzantine walls which surround the Upper City, rising from the

western side above the Lytaia Gate, follow the contours of the rocky ter-

rain of the area leading up to the Acropolis. One can follow the various

changes and renovations of the forti"cation system through the inscrip-

tions still seen on the walls. The last attested Byzantine repairs to thewalls were made by Manuel II Palaeologue, during the period he was

despot of Thessaloniki (1369-73). We learn of these repairs from a four-

line inscription in brick in the exterior of a tower at the northern edge of

the main city walls (3a).

Noteworthy buildings in the Tsinari district, on F. Dragoumi,

Kleious, A. Papadopoulou and Dim. Poliorkitou Streets (4)

The area of the Upper City located above the Ministry of Macedonia-

Thrace is still known by its Turkish name Tsinari – from the Turkish

word çinarli , meaning a plane tree. At the centre of the quarter, stood

the school and the mosque. The main streets in the neighborhood were

Kleious, A. Papadopoulou and Dim. Poliorkitou. Here too the houses

display the common features of the Upper City: traditional architecture

with some neoclassical features; symmetry in the main facades; a num-

ber of timber structures; projecting upper #oors; two- storey structures

with semi-basements in some cases. There are several houses worth see-

ing on Kleious and Dim. Poliorkitou Streets, particularly no. 23 on the

latter (corner with A. Papadopoulou St.), where we see a double project-

ing upper storey on one face, and also no. 37, which has been restored

and now houses the National Map and Cartographic Heritage Centre

(4a). At the corner of Kleious and A. Papadopoulou Streets, stands thelast example of the typical kafeneion of the Turkish period, the Tsinari,

5th WALK: THE UPPER CITY FROM OLYMPIADOS STREET



147

• !"#$%&, '# ()"*$( #+*-./0The church of Aghia Aikaterini, in a period photograph0

TO THE ACROPOLIS WALLS AND THE EDGE OF THE EASTERN WALLS

opposite the fountain of Murat II (Byzantine monument), a meeting place

for the local people. Before leaving this group of Upper City houses, we

must just mention the building on the corner of F. Dragoumi and Olym-

piados Streets, a !ne example of eclectic architecture with a clear neo-

classical in"uence.

Church of Ossios David – Latomou Monastery (5)

The dedication of the church, formerly the catholicon of a monastery,to Ossios David (the Blessed David) of Thessaloniki, is quite arbitraryand dates only from 1921. However, we know from a text of the late9th century (Narrative of Ignatius) that, at that time, the catholicon wasdedicated to Christ the Saviour ‘of the Quarry’ [tou Latomou], and thiswas later con!rmed by the remarkable discovery of the mosaic in thechancel conch. The reference to the ‘quarry’ is explained by the presenceof a stone quarry in the vicinity of the church. The church, perhaps dedi-

cated to the Prophet Zachariah, was founded in the late 5th century. Themosaics and wall paintings that adorn the interior date from the sameperiod, the work having being paid for by an anonymous benefactor whohas been identi!ed with Theodora, daughter of Emperor Maximian, whohad converted to the Christian faith. At the time of the Iconoclast con-troversy, the famous mosaic was covered up with ox-hide and mortar. It



148

came to light again in the reign of Leo the Armenian (813-820), during

an earthquake. In the 12th century, the catholicon was renovated and

decorated with new wall paintings, completed in the late 13th –early 14th

century. Probably in the 16th century, the catholicon was converted into

a mosque. Today, the western part of the structure does not survive, but

this humble little church still boasts some of the most important mosaic

and painted decoration to be seen not only in Thessaloniki, but in any

monument of early Christian and Byzantine art.

Noteworthy buildings in the area of Theophilou and EpimenidouStreets (6)

Theophilou Street formed the southern boundary of the Turkish quarter

Suluca, which extended to the north as far as the city walls. The district

is abundantly supplied with water and has many public fountains. Up

until the end of the 1970’s, Theophilou Street had retained almost all its

traditional buildings. Sadly, however, a large number was later demol-ished and replaced by modern structures. Of those that remain, certain

have been restored and now house council departments or the of!ces of

cultural agencies and organizations.

The building on 32, Theophilou Street, at the corner with Aghias Sophias

Street, displays a very characteristic combination of vernacular archi-

tecture and neoclassical features. During the last century, the ground

• !"#$%, &''()$" *+ 5 + "-.", '"/('0 *) 1.2 *+ 3"*04+6The 5 th century church of Ossios David, catholicon of the Latomou Monastery6




149

• !"#!$ %"&$ '"(! )*&#+, " -%. – -/.0 1"2 "( 3#2&1*# "4! !'"(%4"#15! *&6'#5!7

The Byzantine Bath in the Koule8Kafe district0 during restoration work7

oor premises were converted into a bakery, making this a very charac-teristic ‘corner’ of old Thessaloniki. The house on No. 25 is another very

typical example of Upper City architecture, with clear neoclassical fea-

tures; it is a double-fronted, two-storey house with a very symmetrical

façade. It was probably •rst used by the Turks as a school, undergoing

various modi•cations in the interior over the years. Its importance was

appreciated by the City Council, which acquired it in 1980, carried out

renovation work and uses it to house various of•ces of the department

of the Deputy Mayor for Culture (6a). Very few noteworthy buildings now

remain on Theophilou Street with the same general characteristics or on

Epimenidou Street. On the latter, we should mention the house on No.19, at the edge of the courtyard of the Church of Ossios David, which

belongs to the City Council and houses cultural and academic organiza-

tions, as well as the of•ces of the Thessaloniki Section of the Hellenic

Society (6b).

Byzantine Bath (7)

This public building dates probably to the late 13th or early 14th cen-

tury. In the Greco-Roman world, public baths were the feature that dis-

tinguished more clearly than any other urban from rural populations.

Serving as centres for social contacts and cultural activity, they retained

their character even in the early Christian cities (6th-7th cent.). During





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The Upper City in an inter4war photograph3

the dark ages, most of the public baths fell into disuse; only private

bathhouses remained open. This is why the bathhouse of Thessaloniki

is so exceptional in the Greek world. It remained open without interrup-

tion until 1940.

Noteworthy buildings in the vicinity of Taxiarchon Church andRomfeis Square – Koule Kafe (Mouson and Theotokopoulou Sts.) (8)

This district, known to the Turks as Iki !erife, tended to merge with theneighboring Christian quarter of the Vlatadon Monastery, since Chris-



151 TO THE ACROPOLIS WALLS AND THE EDGE OF THE EASTERN WALLS

tians and Turks lived side by side in a number of streets. It was from the

16th century onwards that the district began to evolve.

On the northern side of Romfeis Square, on 7, Krispou Street, stands a

particularly signi!cant building, a broad, double-faced residence which

is a typical example of a private Balkan house. It displays certain neo-

classical features, but also a distinctive eclecticism, with the two sym-

metrical curved sahnisia (projecting upper stories) on the central axes

of each part. Signi!cant internal modi!cations – particularly the useof reinforced concrete to replace the stairways – took place in 1959,



152

when the building was renovated for use (until the 1980’s) as a high

school. It has been restored with funds of the Ministry of Culture and

purchased by the City Council for use as the of!ces of various cultural

organizations.

There are other interesting buildings at the junction of Theotokopoulou

and Mouson Streets, as well as in the vicinity of the Church of the Taxi-

archs, on 26, Mouson Street. The latter displays the typical organization

of the main façade, with a row of triangular sahnisia on the second "oor.Also of interest is the building on 47, Mouson Street – owned by theMinistry of Culture and used to house part of the of!ces of the Ephorateof Modern Monuments of Central Macedonia – with the wooden decora-tions on its façade.

Church of the Taxiarchs (9)

This is another church whose Byzantine name is not known. Tradition

has it that, before the fall of the city to the Turks, it was dedicated to theArchangels and Taxiarchs Michael and Gabriel. The church was convert-ed into a mosque by Gazi Hüseyin Bey, under the name #ki $erife Camii,which means the mosque with the two balconies. During its many years


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The restored building on Krispou Street6 nowadays used for staging cultural events of theMunicipality of Thessaloniki>



153

• !"#$%&# $'( )*+ ,-"'( .$'* !%/0 1.*23 % $' 456#*$* *' 7%829

The small square of the Upper City in the Tsinari district3 with the Byzantine fountain on the right9

of use as a mosque, the building underwent considerable modi!cation.

In its current form, the church is the result of restoration work conduct-

ed in 1953. It is a two-storey structure, the central wooden-roofed area

surrounded on three sides by an ambulatory – a pattern encountered

in many of Thessaloniki’s 14th century churches. In its original form,

the ambulatory of the Taxiarchs would have been open on the western

and southern sides. The presence of graves in the form of arcosolia (im-

mured tombs with an arch above them) along the walls indicates that

the church was the catholicon of a monastery and that the monks were

buried here. Of the original wall paintings, only the scenes on the two

pediments have survived; scholars who have studied them have not been

able to date the church more precisely than to the second half of the 14th

century.

Noteworthy buildings in the vicinity of Irodotou Street and Kal-lithea Square (10)

Irodotou Street, which passes in front of the propylon of the Church of

Aghios Nikolaos Orphanos, is one of the few streets of the city which fol-

lows, beyond doubt, the layout of the Byzantine street which preceded

it. At the junction with Kodrou Street, stands the house on No. 17, con-structed in the late 19th century and purchased in 1979 by the Ministry




155

•!"#$ &' 14' (), &' )&*+- &"' &' )./0+, 23 &0) #++*05" &' 6"'

7+*.' &' 8!)-9

Wall paintings of the 14 th century, on the eastern wall from the narthex, of the church of

Aghios Nikolaos Orphanos9




156

of Culture. Following renovation, it was used to house the of!ces of the

Ephorate of Modern Monuments of Central Macedonia. There are other

buildings in the vernacular style along Irodotou Street, in Kallitheas

Square and in the quarter bounded by the Byzantine walls in the east-

ern part of the Upper City (Andokidou, Gorgous, Kyklopon, Athinas, A.

Pavlou and Achilleos Sts.). Some are still in good condition, while, sadly,

others still await restoration.

Church of Aghios Nikolaos Orphanos (11)

The church was founded in the second decade of the 14th century, as

the catholicon of a monastery, of which only a few fragments of the pro-

pylon have survived on Irodotou Street. In patriarchal documents dated

1635 and 1638, currently kept at the Vlatadon Monastery, of which the

church was a dependency during the years of Turkish rule, it is referred

to under the name Aghios Nikolaos Orphanos, or ‘ton Orfanon’, in a

codex dated 1745. These names may refer to the founder or to the fam-ily of the founders, or to the charitable work done by the patron of the

church with orphans and widows. The dominant view among scholars

today is that the founder of the church was the Serbian Kral Milutin.

In its original form, the church was a three-aisled basilica. At its cen-

tre, stood a long, narrow hall surrounded on three sides by an ambu-

latory. The masonry is austere and there is no use of varied ceramic

decoration, so characteristic of the Palaeologan churches of the city.

The sculptural decoration is con!ned to the early Christian capitals,

taken from an earlier building, and the marble screen, contemporary

with the church itself, which has survived almost intact in its originalposition. The frescoes are among the best preserved in Thessaloniki

and, in the clarity of their iconographic programme, re"ect the classi-cal perceptions of Palaeologan wall painting. They date from the decade1310-1320 and constitute one of the most important works of the early14th century, not just in Thessaloniki, but in the broader region of Mace-donia and Serbia.

Eastern walls

(above the junction of Olympiados and Zografou Sts.) (12)

The straight line of the eastern wall – after Ag. Dimitriou Street, wherethe wall was destroyed during the laying out of the latter and Olympia-dos Street – continues northwards, with two triangular projections andfurther on with rectangular towers, climbing the slope of the hill. Therectangular tower opposite the Protestant Cemetery (on Kastron St.) isthe one which bears the brick inscription with the name of Ormisdas. This person may be the same with the administrator of the Balkan re-gion referred to by historian Zosimos, in which case construction of thissection of the wall must have begun no later than 390, in the reign of theEmperor Theodosius the Great.

Axylithiotis Machine Shop (13)In the years after the First World War, Efthymis Axylithiotis established




157

his machine shop in Thessaloniki, relocating it in the late 1920’s to an

existing complex of buildings in the area of the Evangelistria cemetery

(Eleni Zografou St.). The complex originally included a carriage works

and joiner’s workshop, later expanding to include a full machine works,

foundry and metal works. The factory produced parts for hydraulics

projects in the plain of Thessaloniki (taps, valves, pipes, fountains, etc.)

as well as •re-•ghting hydrants. The company also had contracts for de-

fensive military installations. The machine works and foundry remained

in operation until the mid-1990’s. When it was designated a historic

monument by the Ministry of Culture (1992) and leased by the Munici-

pal Land Enterprise to the respective Ephorate of Modern Monuments,

work began on plans for its restoration so that it could house cultural

activities, such as a Centre for Traditional Metal-Working Techniques

and exhibition areas.


•!"# #% "& "'(!#)*& + ,(*+ -"./0+ + 1!)#234 5# 5#3## + ,(*+6

Detail from the wall paintings of the church of Aghios Nikolaos Orphanos featuring the miracles ofthe Saint6



158

Historic Evangelistria Cemetery; the Armenian and ProtestantCemeteries (14)

The region extending beyond the eastern walls of the city as far as Ke-

drinos Hill, the quarries and the Holy Spring of Aghios Pavlos, had been

offered by the Turks, centuries ago, to the Greek Orthodox Community,

for the burial of its dead. In 1875, the Community offered this location

to the Brotherhood of Friends of the Poor, whose activities date from

1871. Despite some dif!culties posed by the Turks, the Brotherhood

founded the Evangelistria Cemetery, built the church of the same name

and fenced off part of the land in question. Later, the Turkish authori-

ties annexed arbitrarily various parts of the area and conceded them

for use by the Isla Hane orphanage, by the Bulgarian cemetery (which

has not survived) and by the Armenian cemetery. Today, in the same

location, between E. Zografou Street and the walls and next to the Axy-

lithiotis machine shop, both the Armenian and Protestant cemeteries

are to be found.

Aghios Dimitrios General Hospital (formerly the Municipal Hospital)

(15)

To the north of the Greek Evangelistria Cemetery, at a short distance

outside the eastern walls of the city, stands the old Municipal Hospi-

tal, now known as Aghios Dimitrios. There is disagreement over the

date of construction of the building; some believe it was built in 1890-

1891, a period of intense building activity, which saw the construction

of the Administration Of!ces (now the Ministry of Macedonia-Thrace),

the 3rd

Army Corps barracks and the Old Philosophy School of theUniversity. Others date construction to the years 1902-1903. It was

originally known as Gureba Hastahânesi (Hospital for Indigent For-

eigners) or Hamidiye, and later Belediye. After the liberation of 1912,

it passed into the hands of the Greek state and in 1971 the Thes-

saloniki Municipal Council transferred full ownership of the building

to the state. The hospital complex, set in grounds of about 50,000

square metres, comprised a major general hospital building, a spe-

cial building for tuberculosis sufferers in the north-eastern corner, at

the level of the holy spring (demolished in 1955) and a rabies clinic,

on the southern side, between the Evangelistria Cemetery and the

hospital. This hospital, together with the Hirsch clinic (for the Jew-

ish community) were the city’s largest hospitals at the beginning of

the 20th century. Both the ground plan and the facades are ruled by

the most rigorous symmetry. The composition principles are classical,

while both classic and renaissance features are employed. The layout

of the ground plan is typical of old hospitals. The continually increas-

ing needs of the hospital, which remained continuously in operation,

could eventually no longer be met by the existing facilities, and for

this reason annexes were gradually added, !rst of all between the four

wings, and later out in the grounds, at some distance from the original

central building.




159

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The eastern walls of Thessaloniki.

The Gardens of the Pasha (16)

On the large plot of land where the Aghios Dimitrios Hospital is built,

namely in the space between the hospital and the tuberculosis sanato-

rium demolished in 1955, stands a small group of buildings intended

to adorn the huge gardens that once belonged to the hospital. This

great open space was surrounded by high walls and planted with pines,

while in one section there was a seating area with fountains and other

decorative features, intended to provide cooling relaxation for the visi-

tor, as well as a splendid view of the city below. The Gardens of the

Pasha (no speci!c Pasha appears to be meant by the title) were laid out

in 1904, according to an inscription in one of the walls. They provide

an example of the architecture of the imagination given free play in

the open air. Moreover, they are the only completed work representing

this current of architecture in Thessaloniki. Only a few of the original

buildings have survived, scattered over an area of 1,000 square metres:

a fountain with a tunnel around it, a cistern for collecting rainwater,

a low gate leading into an underground area, and an elevated seating

area.




160

Alysseos Tower or Trigonio Tower(Tzintzirli Kule or Kousakli Kule) (17)

The name is later than the tower itself, and was borrowed from the Byz-

antine name of the district where it stands (Trigonio). It was at this point

that the Turks breached the defences of the city in 1430. During the pe-

riod of Turkish rule, it was known as Tzintzirli Kule (tower of the chain)

or Kousakli Kule (girdled tower). In the 15th century, it replaced the Byz-

antine Trigonio Tower, incorporating the latter in its construction. This

explains its labyrinthine internal layout. Around the middle of the 16th

century, it was modi!ed, taking the form we see today. It was used up

until the 18th century as a powder magazine and arsenal. This type of

tower represented a response to the developments in technology and

the art of war that occurred from the second half of the 15th century on-

wards, with the increasing use of artillery. The Trigonio Tower, together

with the White Tower and the Vardari Fort, formed part of the system of

defenses constructed by the Turks to strengthen critical but vulnerablepoints in the Byzantine forti!cations and make them capable of with-

standing the new techniques of warfare.

Anna Palaiologina Gate – Trigonio (18)

At the north-eastern end of the intermediate wall dividing the Acropolis

from the Upper City, stands the Anna Palaiologina Gate, as it is referred

to in an inscription (1355-56) on a marble slab set in the supporting

wall of the gate. This was a gate of secondary importance, leading from

the interior of the city and the location known as Trigonio into the area

outside the walls. From the same point another secondary gate leadsinto the Acropolis area.

Intermediate wall, between the Acropolis and the Upper City (19)

From the Trigonio, a wall extends a little to the west of, and opposite, the

Vlatadon Monastery, separating the Upper City from the Acropolis area.

The rectangular tower (19a) opposite the entrance to the Monastery,

which connects the western wall of the Acropolis with the intermediate

wall, bears two inscriptions relating to the major interventions conduct-

ed to the Acropolis in the 12th century. The names referred to in these in-

scriptions, namely Andronicus Lapardas and Mihail Prosouh, are known

from other sources in the Comnenan era (around 1167).

Vlatadon Monastery (20)

The Stavropegic Vlatadon Monastery, which is dependent from the Ecu-

menical Patriarchate of Constantinople, is the only Byzantine monas-

tery still functioning in Thessaloniki. The catholicon is surrounded by

contemporary buildings housing the Patriarchal Institute for Patristic

Studies, founded in 1968. The monastery, dedicated originally to Christ

Pantocrator, and nowadays to the Trans!guration, was founded by Doro-

theos Vlatis, a disciple of Grigorios Palamas, one of the city’s most emi-

nent spiritual !gures and its Metropolitan between 1351-1371. It is tothis period that the foundation of the monastery is attributed. There is




a •rman or decree by Sultan Mehmed II, dated 1446, in which privileges

are accorded to the monastery, yet architectural features of the catholi-

con suggest that it was converted into a mosque. The monastery was

widely known as the Tsaous Monastir during the years of Turkish rule, a

name that has survived down to modern times. There are various theo-

ries as to the identity of the Tsaous Bey to whom it owes this name. The

privileged position of the monastery at the point where the water conduit,

bringing water down from Mt. Hortiatis, branched off down into the city,

assured the monks favourable treatment from the Turkish of•cials. But

the importance of the monastery and its wealth – from its earliest days -

are primarily attested to by the dependencies it maintained both within

and outside the city. The catholicon is a relatively rare variation of the

cruciform inscribed type, in which the dome is not supported on columns

but on the walls of the chancel and on two pillars on the western side.

This peculiarity was dictated by the existence of an earlier church on

the same site, the remains of which were preserved in the 14th centurychurch and shaped its construction. The existence of tombs has also

been con•rmed, both within and outside the catholicon, dating from the

14th to the early 16th century. The nucleus of the church is surrounded by

a portico ending to the east in two chapels. Restoration work in 1980-81

uncovered wall paintings in the main church and on the eastern wall of

the western portico, dating from 1360-1380. The screen most probably

dates from the 17th century, but some sections constitute repairs of the

19th century. The sacristy of the monastery contains a large collection of

noteworthy icons, dating from the 12th to the 19th century.

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