000 Map pages000 Photo pages

594594

Aaccommodation 16, 564-6, see

also individual locationschildren, travel with 55costs 565language 581-2

Acropolis (Athens) 68-74, 68, 7, 70, 71, 531

Acropolis of Agios Andreas 18Acropolis of Lindos 326-7activities 50-3, see also individual

activitiesAdamas 242-4Aegiali 209-10Aegina 137-41Aegina Town 138-40, 139Agamemnon 83Agathonisi 385-6, 386Agia Galini 284Agia Irini 255Agia Marina (Kasos) 341Agia Marina (Leros) 373-5Agia Pelagia 522Agia Roumeli 293-4Agia Triada 269Agios Efstratios 436-7Agios Georgios (Agathonisi) 386Agios Georgios (Lasithi Plateau)

301-2Agios Giorgos Kastro 506Agios Kirykos 390-2Agios Nikolaos 302-5, 303Agios Pavlos 283-4Agios Stavros 205air travel

airlines 573-4airports 573internet resources 33tickets 574to/from Athens 120to/from Greece 573-4within Greece 575-6

Akrotiri Peninsula 292Alalkomenes 511Alexander the Great 532Aliki 189Alinda 376-7Allou Fun Park & Kidom 97Alonnisos 465-71, 466, 12Amorgos 206-10, 207AMP 86Anafi 226-8, 227Analipsi 367Anavatos 414Ancient Agora (Athens) 75-6, 76Ancient Akrotiri 224Ancient Andros 162Ancient Delos 181-2, 180Ancient Eleusis 131Ancient Ialysos 328Ancient Kamiros 329Ancient Lato 306Ancient Palekastro 309Ancient Thira 224Ancient Zakros 309Andartis – Partisan of Peace 281Andros 158-62, 159Anemospilia 273Angistri 141-2animals 559-60, see also individual

speciesendangered species 468, 476, 517,

559-60Ano Meria 241Anogia 279-80Anopoli 295-6Antikythira 523, 519Antiparos 189-91, 182-3Antipaxi 495, 492Aphrodite Bathing 318Apiranthos 200Apollo 306, 334Apollonas 200Apollonia 247-8aquariums

Cretaquarium 268Rhodes Town 320-1

Aradena 295archaeological sites, see also Roman

ruins, temples, tombsAcropolis (Athens) 68-74, 68, 7,

70, 71, 531Acropolis of Agios Andreas 18Acropolis of Lindos 326-7Agia Irini 255Agia Triada 269Alyki 447Ancient Agora (Athens) 75-6, 76Ancient Akrotiri 224Ancient Andros 162

Ancient Delos 181-2, 180Ancient Eleusis 131Ancient Ialysos 328Ancient Kamiros 329Ancient Lato 306Ancient Palekastro 309Ancient Thira 224Ancient Zakros 309Asklipieion 362Erechtheion 73-4Eretria 452Evpalinos Tunnel 403Gortyna 274Gournia 306Hephaistia 436House of Homer 512Ireon 406-7Keramikos 77Keros 203Kos Town 357Mikro Horio 349Palace of Knossos 268-73, 268, 13,

270, 271Palamari 476Paleokastro 353Panathenaic Stadium 80Parthenon 72-3Phaestos 269Poliohni 436Ramnous 132Sanctuary of the Great Gods

439-40Skarkos 212Terrace of the Lions 182Thasos 443Tower of the Winds 76underwater artefacts 51

architecture 547-9area codes 15Areopagus Hill 91Argostoli 503-6, 504Arhanes 273Arkasa 337Arki 385Armenistis 396-7Armeos 371art galleries, see museums &

galleriesArtemis 334arts festivals 19, 543-5

Art-Athina 86Athens Biennial 86Axia Festival 199Epidavros Festival 96Hellenic Festival 96Iraklio Summer Festival 264Lato Cultural Festival 303ReMap 86

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

INDEX A

-C595

Synch Electronic Music & Digital Arts Festival 97

Asclepion 75Asclepius 334Asklipieion 362Assos 508, 2Astypalea 363-7, 364Athena 63, 68, 69, 70, 71Athens 57, 62-124, 64-5

accommodation 62, 98-105activities 93Akropoli 72children, travel with 97climate 62drinking 111-13entertainment 113-17Exarhia 101, 109-10, 113, 88-9food 62, 105-11Gazi 101, 109, 104highlights 64-5internet resources 98, 119itineraries 66Keramikos 77, 102Kolonaki 103-4, 110-11, 112, 106Koukaki 101-3, 110Makrygianni 101-3, 110, 113, 72metro system 123Monastiraki 100, 107-8, 111, 113, 78-9Omonia 101, 109-10, 113, 88-9Pangrati 103-4, 110-11Plaka 98-100, 105-7, 111, 112, 78-9planning 62Plateia Syntagmatos 91-2, 122Psyrri 100, 108, 112, 88-9Rouf 109shopping 117-18sights 67-93Syntagma 98-100, 105-7, 111,

112-13, 78-9Thisio 100, 107-8, 111, 113, 102tourist information 120tours 93-6travel seasons 62travel to/from 120-1travel within 127walking tour 94-5, 94

Athens Academy 82Athens observatory 91Athens Olympic Complex 92Athens University 82Athinais 86ATMs 17, 569Atsitsa 475-6Attica 130-4, 132Attica Zoological Park 97Audouin’s seagulls 471August Moon Festival 22, 97Avenue of the Knights 318-19Avgo 521

Bbailout 67, 538Balkan Wars 533-4basketball 117bathrooms 571battles, see also wars

Battle of Marathon 314Battle of Navarino 532Battle of Plataea 72

Batsi 160Bay of Laganas 517beaches 234-7Bembo Fountain 264Bernier-Eliades 86Beulé Gate 69bicycle travel, see cycling, mountain

bikingBios 85birds 559, see also individual speciesbirdwatching 559

Kastro 460Lesvos 236Skantzoura 471Thasos 445Tilos 349

boat travel 576-7, 10, see also boat trips, cruising, island hopping, sailing, yachting

internet resources 32, 42, 43to/from Greece 575, 577to/from Turkey 406within Greece 576-7

boat trips, see also boat travel, cruising, island hopping, sailing, yachting

Armathia Islet 340Corfu 483-4, 490Evia 455Gaïdouronisi (Hrysi) 311Gramvousa Peninsula 301Hora (Folegandros) 231Ithaki 510Karpathos 338Koufonissia 204Kythira 521Lefkada 498-9Lesvos 427Limnos 434Lipsi 383Little Cyclades 209Milos 243Mykonos 173National Marine Park of Alonnisos

240, 467, 468, 12Naxos 193Paros 184, 187Plakias 281Rethymno 275Schinousa 203

Skiathos 457Skopelos 462Thasos 445

Bonelli’s eagles 349, 559Book of Revelations 377, 379books 527, see also literature

art 543Cyclades, the 247flora 559food 553, 555, 560history 532, 536, 541walking trails 465

border crossings 574-5Bouboulina, Laskarina 152, 534Bourtzi 455Bourtzi Islet 457Breeder 86Brooke, Rupert 471, 476budgeting 14-15bungee jumping 96, 295bus travel 575, 577-8

to/from Athens 120-1to/from Greece 575within Athens 122, 123within Greece 577-8

business hours 566Butrint 483Byzantine empire 531

architecture 547-8art 544

Ccamping 564canoeing, see kayakingCape Gero Angeli 215Cape Prasonisi 330Cape Sounion 130Capralos, Christos 140-1car travel 15, 578-80

customs regulations 566driving licences 578hire 578-9insuranceroad rules 579-80to/from Athens 121within Athens 122

carnival season 21, 276, 473Caryatids, the 74, 83Castello Rosso 456castles, see also fortresses

Agios Giorgos Kastro 506Antiparos 189Bazeos Castle 199Bourtzi 455Byzantine-Genoese Castle 427Castello Rosso 456Castle of Faraklos 326Castle of Lykourgos Logothetis 403-4

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX C

-D

596castles continued

Castle of Monolithos 329Castle of Myrina 434Castle of the Knights 357Hora (Folegandros) 231Kritinia Castle 329Paleohora (Crete) 297Pandeli Castle 373Skala (Astypalea) 364-5

catacombs 244cathedrals, see churches & cathedralscaves & caving

Bekiris Cave 155Cave of Antiparos 190Cave of Philoctetes 436Cave of the Apocalypse 379Cave of the Sacred Icon of Agios

Giannis 202Cave of Zeus 198Dikteon Cave 302Drogarati Cave 507Ellinokamara Caves 341Harkadio Cave 348Ideon Cave 281Kalymnos 371Kefallonia 503Koutouki Cave 134Lehousa 471Melissani Cave 507, 240

cell phones 15, 570-1cemeteries, see also tombs

ancient Roman cemetery 184Athens’ First Cemetery 92East Moudros Military Cemetery 436English Cemetery 483Keramikos 77Krithoni war cemetery 376Mycenaean cemetery 207Portianos War Cemetery 436Rupert Brooke’s GraveSamothraki necropolis 440

ceramics, see potteryChalepas, Yannoulis 164changing of the guard ceremony 92chapels, see churches & cathedralscheese 554, 556children, travel with 54-6

accommodation 55Athens 97food 557Hania 289planning 54-6

Chios 409-17, 411Chios Town 410-14, 412

churches & cathedralsAgios Ioannis sto Kastri 464Agios Ioannis Theologos 382Agios Nikolaos Rangavas 82Chapel of Theoskepasti 395Church of Agii Theodori 81-2Church of Agios Eleftherios 81Church of Agios Nikolaos 285Church of Agios Spyridon 483Church of Agios Spyridonas 401Church of Agios Therapon 422Church of Dionysios 515Church of Kapnikarea 81Church of Metamorfosis tou

Sotiros 419Church of Sotira Lykodimou 82Church of the Holy Apostles 76Church of the Taxiarhes 416Monastery of Kimisis Theotokou

418-19Panagia Drosiani 199Panagia Ekatondapyliani 184Panagia Hrysospiliotissa 75St John of the Collachio 319

cinema 526Athens 116, 117film festival 97

civil war 535Classical age 530classical music 96, 116cliff diving 372climate 14, 21-3, see also individual

regionsclimate change 561, 573clothing 16coffee 554Colossus of Rhodes 314, 334comedy (theatre) 546conservation, see also environmental

issuesEarth Sea & Sky 572Hellenic Society for the Study &

Protection of the Monk Seal 468Hellenic Wildlife Hospital 141National Marine Park of

Zakynthos 517consulates 567convents, see monasteries &

conventscooking courses 46, 226, 273, 416, 473Corfu 479-92, 480Corfu Town 482-8, 484, 11costs

accommodation 565car hire 578-9cruising 41food 46island hopping 31motorcycle & scooter hire 579

coursescooking 46, 226, 273, 416, 473language 93marine environmental

awareness 189painting 468pottery 416, 473reiki 472-3yoga 468, 473

credit cards 17Cretaquarium 268Crete 58, 256-311, 258

accommodation 256climate 256food 256, 555highlights 258-9island hopping 33itineraries 26travel seasons 256

cruising 38-44, see also boat travel, boat trips, island hopping, sailing, yachting

internet resources 41, 42, 43Crusades, the 531culture 238, 539-42currency 14customs regulations 566Cyclades 58, 156-255, 157

accommodation 156architecture 548books 247climate 156food 156highlights 157island hopping 33, 36travel seasons 156

Cycladic civilisation 528cycling 53, 576, see also mountain

bikingCrete 301Kefallonia 503Kos 357Rhodes 328Spetses 155

Cyclops 249Cyprus issue 537

Ddance 550-2, 9

Athens 116folk dancing 116, 295, 303, 551International Dance Festival 97

dangers, see safe travelDaskalopetra 414Decumanus Maximus 357-8deforestation 561Delos 179-82, 180desalination plant 202

INDEX D

-F597

desserts 556Diafani 338Dio Adelphi 471Dipylon Gate 77disabilities, travellers with 571diving 50, see also snorkelling

Amorgos 209Antiparos 189-90Athens 93cliff-diving competition 372Corfu 488Diving Festival 369Evia 451Hydra 147, 240Ios 212Kalymnos 369Kapari 147Lefkada 499legal matters 51Milos 243Mykonos 178-9National Marine Park of Alonnisos

467-8Paros 189Plakias 281Rhodes Town 321Samos 405Skiathos 460sponge diving 18, 369Thasos 445

Dodecanese 58, 312-86, 313accommodation 312climate 312food 312highlights 313island hopping 36itineraries 26travel seasons 312

dolphin watching 560Kapari 147National Marine Park of

Alonnisos 467Skopelos 462

domatia 564-5Donousa 205-6, 206Dorian people 529drama (theatre) 546drinking water 568drinks 557

kitron 198ouzo 48wine 557

driving, see car traveldriving licences 578, 579drugs 569Durrell, Gerald 488Durrell, Lawrence 488DVDs 565

EE4 European long-distance path

289, 299eagles 349, 559earthquakes 561Easter 21-2, 542, 9economy 526-7, 538Eftalou Beach 428El Greco 85-6, 263, 544Elafonisi 298electricity 567Elefsina 131Eleonora’s falcons 348, 471, 559Elounda 305embassies 567Embonas 329Emboreios 415Emborios (Halki) 331-2Emborios (Kalymnos) 372Emborios (Nisyros) 355emergency services 15

Athens 119language 584

endangered species 468, 476, 517, 559-60

entehna 551environmental issues 527, 561, 573,

see also conservationEpiphany (Blessing of the Waters) 21Epta Piges 326Erechtheion 73-4Eretria 452Ermones 490Ermoupoli 168-70, 168etiquette 527

eating 17food 48-9, 527photography 17, 570places of worship 17

Eumaeus 511Evans, Arthur 268Evdilos 392-4events, see festivals & events, literary

events, sporting eventsEvia 59, 451-6, 450

accommodation 449climate 449food 449highlights 450island hopping 36travel seasons 449

Evpalinos Tunnel 403exchange rates 15Exobourgo 165

FFalasarna 300, 234falcons 348, 349, 471, 559

Faltaïts, Manos 472Feast of Agios Vasilios (St Basil) 21Feast of St John the Baptist 22Feast of the Assumption 23ferry travel, see boat travel, boat

trips, cruising, island hoppingfestivals & events 21-3, see

also sporting eventsAxia Festival 199Aegina Fistiki Fest 138Armata 153Art-Athina 86Athens Biennial 86Athens Festival 96Athens International Film

Festival 97August Moon Festival 22, 97carnival season 21, 276, 473changing of the guard ceremony

92Dionysos Theatre Festival 391Easter 21-2, 9Epidavros Festival 96Epiphany (Blessing of the

Waters) 21European Jazz Festival 97European Music Day 97Evia Wine & Cultural Festival 455Feast of Agios Vasilios (St Basil) 21Feast of St John the Baptist 22Feast of the Assumption 23Festival of Agios Georgios

(St George) 22Frikaria Music Festival 391food 557Hellenic Festival 22, 96Icarus Festival for Dialogue

between Cultures 391Independence Day 21International Dance Festival 97International Eressos Women’s

Festival 429Iraklio Summer Festival 264Lato Cultural Festival 303Lipsi wine festival 383Marine Week 303May Day 22Miaoulia Festival 146Milos Festival 244motorcycle gatherings 438Musical July Festival 96Navy Week 22Naxos Festival 199Ohi (No) Day 23Panagia tou Harou 383Petras Festival 97Philippi Thasos Festival 443ReMap 86rembetika music festival 472

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX F-H

598festivals & events continued

Renaissance Festival 276Rockwave Festival 96Skyros carnival 473Synch Electronic Music & Digital

Arts Festival 97Vyronas Festival 97

feta 556films, see cinemaFilopappou Hill 91Finiki 337Fira 217-23, 218fishing 275Fiskardo 508-9, 233flora 560-1Folegandros 229-41, 230folk dancing 116, 295, 303, 551food 20, 45-9, 553-7, 11, see also

individual locationsbooks 553, 555, 560cheese 554, 556children, travel with 557costs 46Crete 555cruising 43desserts 556etiquette 17festivals 45, 557feta 556Greek salad 555-6, 20grills 554language 582-3mayirefta 554mezedhes 45olive oil 553seafood 555tavernas 47-8tyropita 469vegetarian 557

forest fires 561fortresses, see also castles

architecture 548Exobourgo 165Fortress of Agia Mavra 497Hania 285Hora (Andros) 161-2Koules Fortress 264Mytilini Town 421Naxos 184Neo Frourio 482-3Palaio Frourio 482Ramnous 133Rethymno 275Volissos 415

Fountain of Arethousa 511Fourni 273Fourni Islands 389, 397-9, 390Frangokastello 295frescoes 544, 547

Agia Panagia 511Church of Dionysios 515Church of Panagia Kera 306Church of St Giorgios Diasorites

198Church of the Holy Apostles 76Iraklio Archaeological Museum

262Moni Kaisarianis 92Moni Panagias Kounistras 460Moni Tharri 329National Archaeological Museum

83Palace of Knossos 262, 272, 13,

270, 271Pandeli Castle 373

Fry 340-1

GGaïdouronisi (Hrysi) 311Gaïos 493Gaitis, Yiannis 212Galissas 170galleries, see museums & galleriesgardens, see parks & gardensGavdos 298-9Gavrio 159-60gay travellers 567

Athens 115festivals 429Mykonos 177

Gennadi 329-30geography 558Gialos 345-7Gioura 470Glaucos 334Glossa 464Glyfada 93gods 63, 69, 73, 439, see also

individual gods, mythologygolf 488gorges

Aradena Gorge 295Dimosari Gorge 456Imbros Gorge 296Kourtaliotiko Gorge 283Rouvas Gorge 273Samaria Gorge 293-4, 10Theriso Gorge 292Valley of the Dead 309Zakros Gorge 309

Gortyna 274Gournia 306

Gramvousa Peninsula 300-1grand promenade (Athens) 75‘Great Idea’ campaign 533Greek National Opera 116Greek salad 555-6, 20

HHadrian’s Arch 80Hadrian’s Library 77Halki (Dodecanese) 330-2, 331Halki (Naxos) 198-9Halkida 451-2Halkidian alphabet 455handicrafts 118, 177, 424, 474Hania 285-92, 286, 12health 567-8Helios 334Hellenic Cosmos 77, 92Hellenic Festival 22Hellenic Wildlife Hospital 141Hephaestus 436Hephaistia 436Heraklion, see IraklioHerodotus 63, 530, 545hiking 50, 51-2, see also walking

Alonnisos 467Amorgos 209E4 European long-distance path

289, 299Evia 452-3, 455, 456Ikaria 395Ithaki 511, 512Kalymnos 369, 371Karpathos 240Kefallonia 503Kythira 521Lesvos 431Melinda–Paleohori trail 431Naxos 198Paleohora–Sougia 299Paleohori–Rahidi trail 431Psara 419Rethymno 276Rouvas Gorge 273Samaria Gorge 293-4, 10Samothraki 240, 240Skiathos 460Skopelos 462Thasos 445, 446Zakros Gorge 309

Hill of the Pnyx 91Hippocrates 334, 355Hippocrates Plane Tree 357history 528-38

Alexander the Great 532Balkan Wars 533-4books 532, 535, 536, 541Byzantine Empire 531

INDEX H

-K599

civil war 535colonels’ coup 535-6Classical age 530Crusades, the 531Cycladic civilisation 528Cyprus issue 537democracy 535-6Dorian people 529‘Great Idea’ campaign 533internet resources 528Minoan civilisation 529Mycenaean civilisation 529monarchy 533Olympic Games 530, 537Ottoman era 531-2Roman era 530-1Sparta 530Venetians, the 532War of Independence 532WWI 534-5WWII 535

hitching 580holidays 570Homer 529, 545, 529

birthplace 415grave 215House of Homer 512stone chair 414tours of sites 511, 512

Hora (Amorgos) 208-9Hora (Andros) 160-2Hora (Astypalea) 364-6Hora (Folegandros) 231-2Hora (Ios) 211-15Hora (Kythira) 520-1Hora (Mykonos) 172-8, 174, 238Hora (Naxos) 192-7, 194Hora (Patmos) 380-1Hora (Samothraki) 438-9Hora (Serifos) 250-1Hora (Tinos) 163-5Hora Sfakion 294horse riding

Corfu 488Naxos 193Paros 187Thasos 445

hot springs, see also thermal bathsLefkada 392Mineral Baths of Eftalou 428Polyhnitos 431, 236Radioactive Springs 390Therma Loutra 361-2

House of Europa 357House of Mosaics 452Hydra 145-51, 145, 11Hydra Town 146-50, 148

IIerapetra 310-11Ikaria 234, 389-97, 390, 235Iliad, the 529Imbros 296immigration 571-2, 573Independence Day 21Inner Sfakia 295-6Inousses 417-18insurance 568

car 579health 568motorcycle 579travel 568

internet access 568internet resources 15

air travel 33Athens 98, 119boat travel 42, 43cruising 40, 41, 42history 528Ionian Islands 479island hopping 32, 33Saronic Gulf Islands 137

Ionian Islands 59, 477-523, 478accommodation 477climate 477climate seasons 477food 477highlights 478internet resources 479island hopping 36

Ios 210-15, 211Ioulida 254-5Iraklia 201-2Iraklio 261-7, 262Ireon 406-7Iron Gates 293island hopping 29-37, 34, see also

boat travel, boat trips, cruising, individual locations

Ithaki 509-12, 502itineraries 24-8

Athens 66cruising 40

Itra 521

Jjackals 560jazz 97, 115

KKaiser’s Throne 490Kalami 488Kalithea Thermi 326Kalymnos 367-72, 368Kamares 246-7

Kamari (Kos) 363Kamari (Santorini) 225Kamariotissa 438Kambos 394-5Kampos 414Kanaris, Kostantimos 418, 419Kapari 147Kapsali 521Karamanlis, Konstandinos 536,

537Karavostamo 397Karavostasis 231Kardiani 165Karpathos 332-9, 333Karya 500Karystos 455Kasos 339-41, 339Kassiopi 488Kastellorizo (Megisti) 341-3, 342Kastro (Sifnos) 248Katapola 207-8Kato Zakros 309-10Katouni Bridge 522kayaking

Alonnisos 467Kefallonia 240, 503Lefkada 499Milos 243

Kazantzakis, Nikos 273, 545Kea (Tzia) 253-5, 253Kea Lion 255Kefallonia 501-9, 502Kefalos Bay 234, 363, 235Keramikos 77Keros 203Kimolos 245, 242Kionia 165Kissamos-Kastelli 299-300kitesurfing 51

Karpathos 240Rhodes 330

kitron 198Klima 245Knights’ Quarter 317-19Knossos 268-73, 268, 13, 270,

271Komitades 296Korissia 253-4Kos 355-63, 356, 235Kos Town 357-61, 358Koufonisia 203-5Krithoni 376-7Kritsa 306-7Kymi 453Kyra Panagia 470Kythira 518-23, 519Kythnos 251-2, 251

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX L-M

600LLadiko Beach 326Lady of Kalymnon 84Lahania 330laïka 551lakes

Lake Korission 491Lake Marathon 133Limni Vouliagmenis 93Sacred Lake 182

Lakka 494Lakki 375-6Lambrou, George 475Langada 210language 16, 581-7

courses 93Lasithi Plateau 301-2Lavrio 130Laws of Gortyna 274Lefkada 495-500, 496, 234Lefkada Town 497-8Lefkes 188Lefkos 337-8legal matters 568-9Lehousa 471Leros 372-7, 374lesbian travellers

Athens 115festivals 429Mykonos 177

Lesvos 420-32, 422, 12, 236lifestyle 539Limni Vouliagmenis 93Limnos 432-6, 433Linaria 475Lindos 326-8Lipsi 382-5, 383literary festivals

Axia Festival 199Corfu Reading Society 483Naxos Festival 199

literature 545-6, see also booksAxia Festival 199Corfu Reading Society 483Naxos Festival 199

Little Cyclades 200-5, 200Livadi (Astypalea) 366Livadi (Iraklia) 202Livadi (Serifos) 249-50Livadia 349-51loggerhead turtles 517, 560Loggos 493-4Loutra (Kythnos) 252

Loutra (Therma) 440-1Loutra Edipsou 453-4Loutraki 464Loutro 295Lykavittos Hill 90-1

MMacedonia 538Magazia (Paxi) 494Magazia (Skyros) 474-5Malia 269Maltezana 367Mamma Mia! 461, 464mandinadhes 550Mandraki 352-4Manolas 226Mantamados 426maps 569Marathi 385Marathon 131-3marble quarries 198Maries 445markets 20

Athens 117food 45Iraklio 266

Marmari 366-7Mask of Agamemnon 83Masouri 371Mastihari 362Matala 273-4May Day 22mayirefta 554measures 565medical services 567-8

Athens 119-20Corfu Town 487Kos Town 361Hora (Mykonos) 178Rhodes Town 325Skiathos Town 459

Mediterranean black shags 349Mediterranean monk seals 240,

467, 468Megalo Horio 351Meganisi 500-1Megas Gialos 171Megisti, see KastellorizoMenetes 336-7Merihas 252Mesta 415-16mezedhes 45mihanikos 551Mikro Horio 349Milia Mountain Retreat 293Milos 241-5, 242Minerva, see AthenaMinoan civilisation 529

mobile phones 15, 570-1Mohlos 307Molos 474-5Molyvos 426-8Mon Repos Estate 483monasteries & convents

Convent of Galataki 454Holy Monastery of Zoodohos

Pigi 381Monastery of St John

the Theologian 380-1, 238Monastery of the Apocalypse

381Moni Agiou Gerasimou 506Moni Agiou Ioanni 332Moni Arhangelou 447Moni Arkadiou 279Moni Evangelistrias 460, 464-5Moni Hozoviotissis 209Moni Kaisarianis 92Moni Metamorfosis Sotiros 465Moni Panagias Kounistras 460Moni Panagias Spilianis 404Moni Preveli 283Moni Prodromou 465Moni Skiadi 330Moni Taxiarhon 426Moni Taxiarhou Mihail Panormiti

347-8Moni Tharri 329Moni Theoktistis 395Moni Theotokou 490Moni Toplou 308Moni Varvaras 465Moni Ypsilou 429Nea Moni 414

money 15, 17, 566, 569monk seals 240, 467, 468Monument of Agrippa 69Morosini Fountain 264mosques

Halkida 451Mosque of Gazi Hassan Pasha

357Mosque of Kioutsouk Hasan 289Mosque of Murad Reis 320Mosque of Süleyman 319Neratzes Mosque 275

motorcycle travel 578-80driving licences 579insurance 579motorcycle gatherings 438road rules 579-80

Moudros 436mountain biking, see also cycling

Corfu 488International Mountain-Biking

Race 445Skopelos 462

INDEX M

-N601

mountain refuges 565Dirfys Refuge 452-3Ypsario Mountain Shelter 447

mountaineeringLefka Ori Mountains 289Mt Dirfys 452-3

mountainsMt Ohi 456Mt Pantokrator 488Mt Parnassos 93Mt Parnitha 131Mt Profitis Ilias 338Mt Psiloritis 280-1Mt Ypsario 446Mt Zeus 198

museums & galleriesAcropolis Museum 82-3Aegean Maritime Museum 173AMP 86Antivouniotissa Museum 483Archaeological Collection 310Archaeological Museum (Corfu

Town) 483Archaeological Museum (Hania) 285Archaeological Museum (Kos

Town) 357Archaeological Museum (Myrina)

434Archaeological Museum (Mytilini

Town) 421-2Archaeological Museum (Pothia)

369Archaeological Museum (Sitia) 307Archaeological Museum (Skala)

365Archaeological Museum (Thasos)

443Archaeological Museum (Vathy)

401Archaeological Museum of Eretria

452Archaeological Museum of

Keramikos 77Archaeological Museum of

Kissamos 299-300Art Space 224Athinais 86Bee Museum 328Benaki Museum 84Bernier-Eliades 86Bios 85Bouboulina’s Museum 152Breeder 86Byzantine & Christian Museum 85Byzantine & Post Byzantine

Collection of Hania 288Centre of Folk Art & Tradition 87Centre of Modern Art 317Christos Capralos Museum 140-1City of Athens Museum 87

Collection of Post-Byzantine Icons 497

Corfu Philharmonic Society 483Cultural Foundation of Tinos 164Della Rocca-Barozzi Venetian

Museum 193Ecclesiastical (Byzantine) Museum

401Eleftherios Venizelos Residence &

Museum 288Epigraphical Museum 87Filippos Argentis Museum 411-12Fish & Olive Gallery 199Folklore Museum of the Northern

Sporades 467Gaitis-Simosi Museum 212Giustiniani Palace Museum 412Greek Folk Art Museum 87Greek Folk Art Museum: Man &

Tools 87Hellenic Children’s Museum 97Hellenic Maritime Museum 126Herakleidon Museum 86Historical Museum of Crete 263-4Iraklio Archaeological Museum

261-3Jewish Museum 87Jewish Synagogue Museum 320Kanellopoulos Museum 86-7Manos Faltaïts Folk Museum 472Maria Callas Museum 87Maritime Museum of Crete 288Mitropolis Museum 192-3Municipal Art Gallery 482Museum House of Yannoulis

Halepas 165Museum Maria Koutsochero 500Museum of Archaeology 318Museum of Asian Art 482Museum of Contemporary Art 161Museum of Cretan Ethnology 275Museum of Cycladic Art 84-5Museum of Greek Children’s Art 97Museum of Greek Popular

Instruments 87Museum of Islamic Art 84Museum of Marble Crafts 18, 165Museum of Modern Greek Art 317Museum of Palaeopolis 483Museum of Prehistoric Thera 218Museum of Solomos 515Museum of the Decorative Arts

317-18Museum of the Electric Railway 126Museum of the Memorial of the

Refugees of 1922 426Museum of Traditional Greek

Ceramics 87National Archaeological Museum

83

National Art Gallery 85-6National Historical Museum 87National Museum of Contemporary

Art 86National Sculpture Gallery 86Natural History Museum of the

Lesvos Petrified Forest 429Naval Museum 285Neorio tou Moro 288New Archaeological Museum 422Nikos Kazantzakis Museum 273Numismatic Museum 87Old Acropolis Museum 74Onassis Cultural Centre 18, 85Patmos Gallery 381Piraeus Archaeological Museum

126Polygnotos Vagis Museum 446Rebecca Camhi Gallery 86Romas Mansion 515Six DOGS 85Taf 85Technopolis 85Teriade & Theophilos Museums

422-3Theocharakis Foundation for the

Fine Arts & Music 85Varvagianni Ouzo Museum 430Volcanological Museum 355Vorres Museum 134War Museum (Athens) 90War Museum (Krithoni) 376

music 20, 550-2festivals 96, 97, 276, 391, 472shopping 118

Muslim Library 319Mykonos 171-9, 172, 3, 238Mylopotamos 521Mylopotas 211-15Myrina 433-5Myrties 371Myrtos 508mythology 334, 545Mytilini Town 421-5, 424

NNaousa 187-8National Library 82national parks & reserves 559, see

also parks & gardensMoni 141Mt Parnitha National Park 131National Marine Park of

Alonnisos 467, 12National Marine Park of

Zakynthos 517Naxos 191-200, 192Nea Kameni 226Neo Frourio 482-3

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX N

-R

602Neorio tou Moro 288newspapers 565Nida Plateau 280Nikea 355nisiotika 550Nisyros 351-5, 352northeastern Aegean Islands 58,

387-448, 388accommodation 387climate 387food 387highlights 388island hopping 36-7travel seasons 387

OOdeon of Herodes Atticus 75Odysseus 490, 509, 511Odyssey, the 511, 529, 545Ogygia 334Ohi (No) Day 23Oia 223-4, 237Old Agia Roumeli 293olive oil 553Olymbos 338-9Olympic Games

Athens Olympic Complex 92Panathenaic Stadium 80

Onassis Cultural Centre 18, 85opening hours 566opera 116Ormos 211-15Ottoman era 531-2ouzo 48

Ppainting courses 468palaces

Agia Triada 269Ahillion Palace 489Palace of Knossos 268-73, 268, 13,

270, 271Palace of Malia 269Palace of St Michael & St George

482Palace of the Grand Masters 319Palace of Villiers de l’sle Adam 319Phaestos 269Zakros Palace 309Zappeio Palace 91

Palaio Frourio 482Palamari 476Palekastro 309

Paleohora (Aegina) 140Paleohora (Crete) 296-8Paleokastritsa 490Paleokastro (Kastellorizo) 343Paleokastro (Kimolos) 245Paleokastro (Leros) 376Paleokastro (Nisyros) 353Paleopoli 162Pali 355Palia Kameni 226Paliki Peninsula 506-7Panagia Drosiani 199Panagia Ekatondapyliani 184Panagia Hrysospiliotissa 75Panathenaic Procession 74Panathenaic Stadium 80Panathenaic Way 72Pandeli 375Papademos, Lucas 538Papadopoulos, Georgios 536Papandreou, Andreas 536, 537Papandreou, George 538Papandreou, Georgios 535-6Paralia Kymis 453Parian Chronicle 184Parikia 184-7, 185parks & gardens, see also national

parks & reservesMon Repos Estate 483National Gardens 91Zappeio Gardens 91

Parliament 92Paros 182-9, 182Parthenon 72-3passports 571-2, 573Patakos, Stylianos 536Patitiri 467-9Patmos 377-8, 378Paxi 492-4, 492, 236Peace & Friendship Stadium 117, 537Peania 134Pelikata Hill 511Peloponnesian Wars 63, 530Perdika 141peregrine falcons 349Peristera 471Petaloudes 329Petra 428Phaestos 269Phaestos Disk 263, 269phonecards 571photography 569-70Piano Nobile 272Pigadia 334-6, 335Piosses 255Piperi 470Piraeus 125-7, 124Piso Livadi 189

Plaka (Milos) 244Plakias 281-2Planetarium 92-3planning, see also individual regions

accommodation 16activities 50-3budgeting 14calendar of events 21-3children, travel with 54-6food 45-9island hopping 29-37itineraries 24-8repeat visitors 18travel seasons 14, 30weather 14

Platanos 373-5Plessas, Angelo 86Plomari 430Poliohni 436politics 526-7, 537-8Pollonia 245Polyhnitos 431, 236Polyrrinia 299Polyvotis 354population 526, 527Poros 142-5, 144Poros Town 143-4Porto 165post 565Potamos (Antikythira) 523Potamos (Kythira) 521-2Pothia 368-70pottery 543

courses 416, 473Giant Pithoi 270, 271Kamares pottery 263Skyros 474, 13

Preveli Beach 283, 9Propylaia 69Psara 418-20Psathoura 471Pserimos 361, 356Psili Ammos Beach 407Psyhro 302public holidays 570Pyrgi 415Pyrgos 165Pythagoras 408Pythagorio 403-6, 404

RRadioactive Springs 390Rafina 127rafting, see kayakingRahoni 445Ramnous 132raptors 420, 559

INDEX R

-S603

reiki courses 472-3religion 527, 542rembetika 551reserves, see national parks &

reservesRethymno 274-9, 276Rhodes 314-30, 315Rhodes Town 317-26, 318, 320, 9, 239Rina 372road rules 579-80rock climbing

Amorgos 206International Climbing Festival 369Kalymnos 369, 371

Roman Agora 76Roman Baths 81Roman era 530-1Roman ruins, see also archaeological

sites, temples, tombsancient Roman cemetery 184catacombs 244Decumanus Maximus 357-8Gortyna 274Hadrian’s Arch 80Hadrian’s Library 77Roman Agora (Athens) 76Roman Baths (Athens) 81Roman Baths (Loutraki) 464Roman cistern 337Tallaras Roman baths 367Tower of the Winds 76

Rouvas Forest 273ruins, see archaeological sites,

Roman ruins

SSacred Gate 77safe travel 15, 570

Athens 118car travel 579children, travel with 55drinking water 568environmental hazards 568motorcycle travel 579road 579women travellers 572

saganaki 556sailing, see also yachting

Corfu 488Skiathos 457-8Syros 169

Samaria 293Sami 507-8Samos 399-409, 400Samothraki 437-41, 437, 240Sanctuaries of the Foreign Gods 181Sanctuary of Apollo (Ancient Delos)

182

Sanctuary of Apollo (Eretria) 452Sanctuary of Artemis 133Sanctuary of Poseidon & Amphitrite

165Sanctuary of the Great Gods 439-40Sanctuary of the Kabeiroi 436Sanctuary of the Syrian Gods 182Sangri 199-200Santorini 215-26, 216, 8, 237Sarakiniko 245Saria 338Saronic Gulf Islands 57, 135-55, 136

accommodation 135climate 135food 135highlights 136internet resources 137island hopping 37travel seasons 135

Schinousa 202-3scuba diving, see divingsculpture 543-4, 545seafood 555seagulls 471seals 240, 467, 468Serifos 249-51, 249Shinias 133shopping 20

antiques 459art 222, 464embroidery 474, 475, 488handicrafts 118, 177, 474honey 407iconography 325, 381Kalymnian sponges 361language 584markets 117, 266music 118pottery 199, 474sculpture 474wine 197woodcarvings 474

Shrine to the Egyptian Gods 182Shrine to the Samothracian Great

Gods 181Siana 329Sifnos 245-9, 246Sikinos 228-9, 228Simosi, Gabriella 212Sitia 307-8Six DOGS 85Skala (Angistri) 142Skala (Astypalea) 364-6Skala (Patmos) 378-80Skala Eresou 429-30Skala Kamirou 329Skantzoura 471Skarkos 212

Skiathos 456-60, 457Skiathos Town 457-9Skinakas Observatory 280Skopelos 461-5, 462Skopelos Town 461-4Skyrian horses 236, 473, 476Skyros 471-6, 471Skyros Town 472-4smoking 570snorkelling 50, see also diving

Alonnisos 468Karpathos 240Kefallonia 503Naousa 187

soccer 117Sougia 296souvlaki 554Spetses 151-5, 153Spetses Town 152-5Spetsopoula 155Spili 281Spinalonga Island 306sponge diving 18, 369Sporades, the 59, 449, 456-76,

450accommodation 449climate 449food 449highlights 450island hopping 36travel seasons 449

sporting eventsAthens Marathon 117cliff-diving competition 372Diving Festival 369Half-Marathon 472Ikaria International Chess

Tournament 391International Climbing Festival

369International Mountain-Biking

Race 445Speed World Cup 22

St John the Divine 379St Maria of Egypt 293Statue of Athena Promachos 72Stefanos 354Steni 452-3Stoa of Attalos 75-6Stoa of Eumenes 75Street of Tombs 77surfing 51Symi 343-8, 344synagogues

Etz Hayyim Synagogue 289Halkida 451Kahal Shalom Synagogue 320

Syros 166-71, 167

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX T-W

604TTaf 85Tallaras Roman baths 367tavernas 47-8taxis 580Technopolis 85, 97Telendos Islet 371-2telephone services 15, 570-1temples

Alyki 441Anemospilia 273Panagia Hrysospiliotissa 75Sanctuaries of the Foreign Gods

181Sanctuary of Apollo (Ancient

Delos) 182Sanctuary of Apollo (Eretria) 452Sanctuary of Artemis 133Sanctuary of Poseidon &

Amphitrite 165Sanctuary of the Great Gods

439-40Sanctuary of the Kabeiroi 436Shrine to the Egyptian Gods 182Shrine to the Samothracian Great

Gods 181Temple of Aphaia 140Temple of Apollo (Aegina Town) 138Temple of Artemis (Corfu) 483Temple of Artemis (Leros) 377Temple of Athena Nike 18, 69, 72Temple of Demeter 199Temple of Dionysos (Lesvos) 431Temple of Hephaestus 76Temple of Nemesis 133Temple of Olympian Zeus 77Temple of Poseidon (Cape

Sounion) 130-1Temple to Athena (Ancient

Kamiros) 329Temple to Athena (Ancient Lindos)

327Terrace of the Lions 182Thasos 441-8, 442Thasos (Limenas) 442-4, 443theatre 546theatres

Ancient Delos 181ancient theatre (Thasos) 443Dora Stratou Dance Theatre 116Epidavros 142Milos 244National Theatre 116Odeon of Herodes Atticus 75Olympia Theatre 116

Pallas 116Theatre of Dionysos 74-5

Theologos 445Theriso 292Therma Loutra 361thermal baths, see also hot springs

Kalithea Thermi 326Lesvos 431-2Loutra (Kythnos) 252Loutra (Therma) 440Loutra Edipsou 453Santorini (Thira) 226

Thirasia 226Tholaria 210Tilos 348-51, 348time 571Tinos 162-5, 163tipping 17, 43, 569Titan Polyvotis 334Titans, the 334toilets 571tombs, see also cemeteries

Marathon Tomb 131Street of Tombs 77Tomb of the Unknown Soldier 92

tourism 526tourist information 571tourist police 570tours 580, see also individual

activities & destinationscycling 503ecotours 416Homeric sites 512sponge diving 18walking 93-4wine 219

Tower of the Winds 76Tragaea 198tragedy (theatre) 546train travel 574, 576, 580

to/from Athens 121to/from Greece 576within Athens 122, 123within Greece 580

travel to/from the Greek Islands 573-5

travel within the Greek Islands 575-80

travellers cheques 569trekking, see hikingTriopetra 283Trypiti 244Tschumi, Bernard 82Turkish baths

Athens 90Rhodes 319

turtles 517, 560tyropita 469

Tzantas, Ioannis 393Tzermiado 301

Vvacations 570Vagis, Polygnotos 446Vaï 308-9Valley of the Butterflies 329Valley of the Dead 309Vardinogiannis Bridge 295Vasiliki 498-9Vatera 431Vathres rock pools 441Vathy (Ithaki) 510-11Vathy (Samos) 400-3, 402Vathypetro 273Vathys 372vegetarian travellers 557Venus de Milo 241visas 15, 571-2Volax 165volcanoes

Nisyros 354-5Santorini (Thira) 219

Volissos 415volunteering 572Vourkari 255Vouvalis, Nickolas 369Vravrona 133Vromolithos 375Vrontados 414

Wwaders 236, 420walking 19, see also hiking

Around Skopelos 465Athens 96Lefkada 499Plakias 281, 283Sami 508walking tour 94-5, 94

wars, see also battlesBalkan Wars 533-4civil war 535Peloponnesian Wars 63, 530War of Independence 532WWI 534-5WWII 535

water, drinking 568waterfalls

Kythira 521Lefkada 498Samos 408Vathres rock pools 441

waterskiing 51, 189, 212weather 14, 21-3, see also individual

regionsweights 565

INDEX W

-Z605

whale spotting 560wildflowers 560-1wildlife 559-60, see also individual

specieswindsurfing 50-1

Corfu 488Ios 212Lefkada 499Limnos 436Mykonos 178Naxos 193Paros 189Rhodes 330

wine 557wine festivals 383, 455wineries

Corfu 490Embonas 329

Iraklio 272Kefallonia 507Rhodes 329Santorini (Thira) 219

Winged Victory of Samothrace 439

women travellers 572work 572World Heritage Sites

Acropolis (Athens) 68-74, 68, 7, 70, 71, 531

Butrint (Albania) 483Corfu Town 482-8, 484, 11Ireon 407Moni Dafniou 81Nea Moni 414Rhodes Old Town 317-20, 320,

9, 239

XXirokambos 376Xyloskalo 293

Yyachting 43, 169, see also

sailingyoga courses 468, 473yoghurt 557

ZZakynthos 512-18, 513Zakynthos Town 515-16,

514Zaros 273Zeus 281, 529zoos 97

606

Beach

Diving/Snorkelling

Sleeping

Eating

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity/Course/Tour

BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight

Entertainment

Shopping

DrinkingCafe

Post OfficeTourist Information

AirportBorder CrossingBus

CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParking

TaxiS-Bahn

Train/RailwayTramTube StationU-BahnOther Transport

Cable Car/Funicular

Walking TourDetour

Walking Tour

Path

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Secondary

Unsealed Road

Tunnel

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

State/Province

Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

Beach/DesertCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)

River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

LighthouseHut/Shelter

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

Sights

Activities, Courses& Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking

Information

Transport

Geographic

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

RoutesMap Legend

Look out for these icons:

o Our author’s recommendation

F No payment required

S A green or sustainable option

Our authors have nominated these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability – for example by supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects.

These symbols will help you fi nd the listings you want:

1 Sights T Tours 6 Drinking

r Beaches z Festivals & Events 3 Entertainment

2 Activities 4 Sleeping 7 Shopping

C Courses 5 Eating 8 Information/Transport

These symbols give you the vital information for each listing:% Telephone Numbers W Wi-Fi Access g Bush Opening Hours s Swimming Pool f Ferryp Parking v Vegetarian Selection m Metron Nonsmoking E English-Language Menu b Subwaya Air-Conditioning c Family-Friendly j Trami Internet Access # Pet-Friendly d Train

Reviews are organised by author preference.

588 Behind the Scenes

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Badong Abesamis, Alex Archer, Tina Audrey, Julia Bargarum, Ian Brown, Jan Bruusgaard, Nikki Buran, Peter Castello, Eva Dhmhtriou, Spiros Divaris, Ray Edmondson, Per Eng-ström, Eric Feigenbaum, Lindsay Grant, Martin Haemmerle, Paula Hagiefremidis, Yair Hashachar, Geoff Hughes, Juliana Hughes, Roberta Iamiceli, Sharon Johnson, Nikki Kane, Tzortzis Kontonikolaou, Georgia Manos, Anton Moehrke, Marina Mogli, Anette Munthe, Allene Nicholson, Nikolaos Ntantis, Galatea Paradissi, William Parnell, Leo Paton, NCW Pratten, Tee Selvaratnam, Manolis Spinthakis, Dan Stacey, Ralf Teepe, Ronne van Zuida, Elizabeth Waddell, Aonghus Weber, Richard Woolf, Teun Zijlmans

AUTHOR THANKS Korina Miller Thank you to the countless people who have been so generous with their time and knowl-edge. In particular, to my co-authors for shar-ing their huge expertise and well-timed hu-mour. Thank you also to Anna Tyler and Sally Schafer for their patience and assistance and for giving me the opportunity, and to Monique Perrin, Tasmin Waby McNaughtan,

Gina Tsarouhas, Kirsten Rawlings and Mandy Sierp. And fi nally, thanks to Kendra and Dale for the home-from-home to work in and big love to my daughters Simone and Monique for making me take time out to dance around the front room.

Alexis Averbuck Hail Alexandra Stamopoulou for her spot-on recommendations. Marina Flenga was a superlative fairy godmother, connecting me to those in the know. Marilee Anargyrou Kyriazakou and Cali Doxiadis (Kerkyra), Eleni Doxiadi (Lefkada), Manita Scocimara-Pong-his (Kefallonia), Ioanna Katsigeras (Kythira), Theodoris Drossos (Aegina) and Petros Haritatos and Dimitris Anargyros (Spetses) shared their love and knowledge of their islands. In Athens, Lena Lambrinou decoded the Acropolis and Elina Lychoudi the nightlife. Margarita Kontzia and Anthy and Costas made it home.

Michael Stamatios Clark Ευχαριστώ (thank you) to those who helped make the road a welcoming place – in partic-ular Heather Parsons, George and Mahi (Sko-pelos); Chrysanthi Zygogianni (Skyros); and Vasillis and Demetra (Ikaria). MJ Keown was instrumental from the beginning, along with Kostas and Nana Vatsis. Special thanks to my fellow author Chris Deliso who paved the way in the Northeast Aegean, and to Korina Miller

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travell ers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well- travell ed team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a free book.

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BEHIN

D THE SCEN

ES589

for coordinating grace, and to Janet for keep-ing things cool while Tunisia simmered.

Des Hannigan My thanks to the many friends, tourism pro-fessionals and passing strangers, both local and nonlocal, who have helped and advised me during my work in Greece over many years. They are too numerous to mention, but I hope they are all aware of my gratitude and aff ection. May they always go towards the Good.

Victoria Kyriakopoulos Sincere thanks to coordinating author Korina Miller, and to Sally Schafer and Anna Tyler at Lonely Planet London for the opportunity to contribute to this edition, albeit from afar. Special thanks to my partner Chris Anastas-siades for his support and encouragement, to Nik and Sam, and to my beautiful son Kostas Leonidas for bringing such absolute joy into my life.

Andrea Schulte-Peevers First up, a big thank you to Anna Tyler for giving me a shot at this book. Heartfelt thanks also to my husband David for being such good company while tooling around the island, and to Miriam Bers for her fruitful referrals. Big kudos to all the good folks who

generously shared their expertise and local insights, including the Papadospiridaki family, Vaggelis Alegakis, Nikos Miliarakis, Ioannis Giannoutsos, Marianna Founti-Vassi and Moin Sadiq.

Richard Waters My special thanks to Valentina on Tilos, Manos on Symi, Michelle on Nisyros, Alexis on Kos for his endless generosity and Maria for her eccentric company on Patmos. My thanks too to Anna Tyler, Korina Miller and a very patient Gina Tsarouhas. Final thanks go to the Greek people who despite diffi cult times are always welcoming with open arms.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344.

Cover photograph: Fira, Santorini, Ocean/Corbis. p537: Architects for the Peace & Friendship Stadium, Athens, Thymios Papa-giannis & Associates. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com.

THIS BOOK This 7th edition of Lonely Planet’s Greek Islands guidebook was researched and written by Korina Miller, Victoria Kyriako-poulos, Alexis Averbuck, Michael Stamatios Clark, Chris Deliso, Des Hannigan, Andrea Schulte-Peevers and Richard Waters. In addition to these authors, Gina Tsarouhas, David Willet, Will Gourlay, Paul Hellander, Miriam Raphael and Andrew Stone also worked on previous editions of the book. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s London office, and produced by the following:

Commissioning Editors Joanna Cooke, Catherine Crad-dock, Anna Tyler

Coordinating EditorsNigel Chin, Monique Perrin Coordinating Carto-grapher Andrew Smith Coordinating LayoutDesigner Jacqui Saunders Managing Editors Imogen Bannister, Tasmin Waby McNaughtan Senior Editor Angela Tinson Managing Cartographers Alison Lyall, Mandy Sierp Managing LayoutDesigner Jane Hart Assisting Editors Alice Barker, Janice Bird, Adrienne Costanza, Beth Hall, Carly Hall, Jocelyn Harewood, Briohny Hooper, Anne Mulvaney, Alan Murphy, Catherine Naghten, Kristin Odijk, Christopher Pitts,

Charles Rawlings-Way, Gina Tsarouhas, Saralinda Turner, Fion-nuala Twomey, Kate Whitfield Assisting Cartographers Sonya Brooke, Mick Garrett, James Leversha Cover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Aude Vauconsant Illustrator Javier Martinez Zarracina Language Content Laura Crawford Thanks to Brendan Dempsey, Ryan Evans, Annelies Mertens, Susan Paterson, Trent Paton, Martine Power, Averil Robertson, Riina Stewart, John Taufa, Gerard Walker, Juan Winata, Emily K Wolman

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’

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