3D Printer Improvements
Transcript of 3D Printer Improvements
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From the community for the community, mostly via an Ultimaker
3D printer improvements
Check my main links.Many of my 3D designsare free, but I can also be contracted to design yours - jeremie francois at gmail
Thursday, December 27, 2012
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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 6:52 PM 9 comments:
Labels: consumables,general,review
Review: what materials can be 3D printed?
Every now and then I am being asked about it, so here is a post
on the many materials that can be 3D-printed at home.
It is not complete and will expand with time. It is no buyer's guide
either, nor a technical document. Read it as a short generic
survey of usable materials.
As for me and many others, I print mostly with PLA filament (see
below). Even though I have a set of other materials ( wood,
rubber, Nylonand so on), I did not test all the following myself,
mostly because each material requires its set of specific time-
consuming trials and errors to achieve good quality. Mastering all
of them would take me months, if not years!
Mixed woodand bioplastic (PLA)
What materials to 3D-print ?
+16 Recommend this on Google
Saturday, November 17, 2012
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Short belt tensioner for NEMA 17 stepper motors
The short belts that drive the main rods from the X and Y steppers must
always be kept tight. Otherwise the print quality really gets bad. Two
symptom that are easy to spot is non-round cylinders or "bouncing"
waves in the surface of the print.
The usual fix is to unscrew the 4 bolts, push the motor downwards with a
thumb and tighten the screws very hard while keeping the pressure...
I just could not stand this anymore, so I designed this thingand this
derivative(with an additional spring).
How to tension the Ultimaker short belts once for all?
Upside version of the tensioner
general reviewmechanicalreplacementbowden tubeissue feeder addonconsumablesheat hot endmotorsoftwareelectricweird
Keywords
Jeremie Francois
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If you know me and you cannot tell
exactly what my real job is, then you
probably found the right Jeremie.
Check zax.frfor some pointers.
I am self-employed and I help start-
ups, research centers, small
companies with their needs related
to computers and maths. If you
have a project and know what
"R&D" is, then you already caughtmy interest ;)
View my complete profile
About Me
17
Review: whatmaterials can be 3Dprinted?
Mixed wood and
bioplastic (PLA)What materials to3D-print ? Every now and then I ambeing asked about it, so here is apost on the ...
Review : settings forCura (3D printingfront end and slicer)
What are the mostimportant settings inCura ? I switched to
Cura as the unique front end toprint with my 3D printer. Thisexcellent s...
Homemade heatedbed
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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 8:06 PM 3 comments:
Labels: issue,mechanical, motor, replacement
+3 Recommend this on Google
Sunday, November 11, 2012
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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 12:43 PM No comments:
Labels: addon,electric
Auto shutoff at end of print
I could not say it better than Daid: that headline
should grab attention.
Given the heat a 3D printer can generate, even when
idle, I would better kill it than let it powered
unattended, both for the planet, and to reduce the
slightest risk of fire. ;)
I stick here to the simplest and most straightforward
modification, partly because it is already supported by
the Marlin printer firmware.
By the way, the total cost is less than $10, and you
will just need a few solder points!
Kill y our 3D printer when it gets lazy !
Recommend this on Google
Sunday, November 4, 2012
Major wood FDM printing breakthrough !
This is incredible...
No need for a hot bed, no issue with massiveoverhangs, no stringingat all, no retraction, grinding
nor feeding issues, not even noise, smell nor
chemicals.
Free and easy sourcing of material, highly
portable, robust, self-powered and auto-adapting
printing system. And damn, they even master wood
gradientsand polygonal infill!
Now, on the downside: it comes without a user
manual and the system is incompatible with g-
code.And sometimes, it stings.
Extremely efficient wood 3D printing system
Why add a heatedbed ? Do you reallyneed an answer ?You just need one in
my humble opinion. After I mademine, I never had an obje...
How fine can anUltimaker print?
Ultimaker impressivequality at smallestlayer heights(40,50,75 microns) I
printed one famous treefrog on myUltimaker for a friend an...
What cannot be 3Dprinted? Time todebunk some myths!
General 3D
printing misinformation: review offacts and fiction! Each technologyhas some fundamental limitations,and 3D printing is no...
3D printing with asmaller nozzlediameter
For sure, a smallernozzle produces finer
details, but howtricky and troublesome it can be! Is itworth using a smaller nozzle on a ...
Which hobbed boltfor a filamentfeeder? Myhomemade one!
Driving the filamentwith hobbed /
knurled bolts My quite efficienthobbed bolt :) As all owners of 3Dprinters know, one item of utm...
Rollerstruder: afilament feeder /driver / extruder
The rollerstruder
filament drive systemon an UltimakerAlmost one year ago I got rid of theplywood Ultimaker filament drivemechanism...
3D printing withcheap Nylon trimmerline/string
Is filament quality soimportant after all? Iheard a while ago
that trimming line was one of themany materials that wasexperimented w...
Molding and castingwith a 3D printer
Printing a mold
and/or lost waxcasting Or how a 3Dprinter also opens
the way to semi-industrialhomemade objects beyond artisticsculpt...
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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 12:51 PM 6 comments:
Labels: consumables,review, weird
How nasty.
+4 Recommend this on Google
Thursday, November 1, 2012
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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 9:17 PM 2 comments:
Labels: addon,general,replacement, review
Poll: what are the features you added to your stock Ultimaker ?
Here is an on-going poll motivated by this poston the Ultimaker google
forum. So please keep your comments for the forum!
I finally developed my own blogger poll system after failures with the
official and restrictive blogger polls.
What are your Ultimaker features?
Recommend this on Google
Tuesday, October 30, 2012
How to write a Cura / Skeinforge plugin
Preliminary notes: some sites such as wiredlink to this
post, but you may like to read my less technical
review about temperature gradientsapplied to wood
first. Also, you could check this postif you just want to
try it.
First, do you really really want to wri te a Skeinforge plugin ?
materials can be3D printed?
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nter improvements
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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 10:06 AM No comments:
Labels: review,software
Now, read on if you are a programmer and want to
write your own plugin.
Indeed and contrary to what was being done so far, I did not want to manually insert the M104 temperatures
changes in the file sent to the printer, nor stay close to the ulticontroller. So I designed a plugin for the Cura /
Skeinforgesoftware pair.
Since that was not trivial, I document the procedure here.
Recommend this on Google
Read more
Posted by Jeremie Francois at 12:54 AM No comments:
Labels: consumables,issue
Wood filament becoming brittle after a while
When I started printing this morning with my wood filament(~2-3 week
old), all kinds of filament issues appeared, while I had almost none before.
I soon realized that the filament now is much more fragile than one week
ago.
First I though I had temperature and clogging issues, since I was testing
my plugin for simulating wood grain.
Update: seller answer, see end of post.
Wood filament now bri ttle, lost all its needed flexibility !
Recommend this on Google
Shades of brown with wood filament, via varying temperature
Wood filament : changing temperature to get shades of brown
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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 12:53 AM 6 comments:
Labels: consumables,heat, review
Wood filament, temperatures from 205 to 240, home made Skeinforge plugin
You probably want to check my first post about wood filamentif you did not already.
This sequel shows how varying temperatures impacts the color of the filament (as advertised).
+3 Recommend this on Google
Monday, October 29, 2012
Read more
Posted by Jeremie Francois at 11:25 PM 2 comments:
Labels: bowden tube, hot end,mechanical, replacement
Robust bowden attachment with a blind rivet nut
Blind rivets nutsgive you a nut where you cannot reach the other side of the support.
Using a blind rivet nut to fix t he bowden tube once for all
Recommend this on Google
How to clean the hotend and nozzle from the outside
Obviously you can disassemble the end, which is quite painful. It may also
damage some items and threads in the long term.
How to remove clogged/molten filament in a V2 head?
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Read more
Posted by Jeremie Francois at 10:37 PM 2 comments:
Labels: bowden tube, heat,issue
Or you try whatever comes under you hand to remove the damn molten
stuff in and around the PEEK. Of course, start by removing your bowden
tube from the top quick coupling.
+3 Recommend this on Google
Thursday, October 25, 2012
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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 11:18 AM No comments:
Labels: general,review, software
Review : settings for Cura (3D printing front end and slicer)
I switched to Curaas the unique front end to print with my 3D printer. This excellent software from Daid is
handling all the printing workfor you: displaying and scaling the objects, slicing them into layers, sending them to
the printer. It will not help you design or modifyyour object though.
This is called stringing (overfeeding, bad settings)
but it gives an usable part and an interesting piece of art in the end
What are the most important settings in Cura ?
+11 Recommend this on Google
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Wednesday, October 24, 2012
Review : printing with wood filament
Twisted Gear Lampby BenitoSanduchi, printed with Cura at 80mm/s, 0.2mm layers, Ultimaker
I boughtan early batch directly from a small producerin Germany. The full reference was LAYWOO-D3 LOT
F0142. It was not cheap, but it even got more expensive because everyone wanted some!
How it is made sounds trivial: just a mix of saw dust and plastic... But shaping this mix into a nice filament must
be tricky otherwise all the major producers would have produced it before and would be already be
selling kilometers of it...
There was no choice on the color yet.
What strikes me first is the surface, which is extremely rough compared to the other filament kinds. I think there is
still air in this filament... The overall stiffness is much lower than PLA, and you almost feel like you could bend it
without breaking it (even though it still breaks nicely with a sharp movement and pliers). Later, I had serious
issues with the filament for some time which lost all of its flexibility, but the issue is gonethanks to a air dryer.
Unusual deep marks left by my hobbed bolt (with a medium tension on the feeder)
The filament diameter is not very constant, but it is not worse than the two kind of PLA filament I had. From 3.0 to
3.1 mm, which is totally fine for me. I never had any grinding issue (during the first week of the filament). Some
Printing with wood filament : a short review
You may like to read also my post on wood shadesthough temperature changes.
What is a "wood filament" ?
http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/review-wood-filament.htmlhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31722https://grrf.de/en/catalog/spezial-material/printable-wood-fillamenthttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30552http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30552http://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/wood-filament-becoming-brittle-after.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/shades-of-brown-with-wood-filament-via.htmlhttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-d0J_IvrqZuE/UIgU43hoHsI/AAAAAAAAAOI/V1B3CCbLXws/s1600/WoodFilamentMarks.jpghttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/shades-of-brown-with-wood-filament-via.htmlhttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8ErKc-RKW3w/UIhPm933YpI/AAAAAAAAAPg/rrA2IEcOynM/s1600/vase6.JPGhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/wood-filament-becoming-brittle-after.htmlhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:30552https://grrf.de/en/catalog/spezial-material/printable-wood-fillamenthttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31722http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/review-wood-filament.html -
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people however report serious issues and varying diameters (read on from this postfor example). Note that my
bowden tube is non standard,and its inner diameter is 4mm (OD 6mm). This proved to help a lot obviously.
On my first print, I thought I was under extruding a bit because I heard
bubbles popping out of the nozzle while printing, and the thin walls where
not that smooth. I still should try with higher feed ratejust to check how it
behaves and if the result is smoother.
However the macros for horizontal filling (picture on the right) seems to telit is pretty well tuned. See how the successive pass really fit each other
better than with PLA (my nozzle is 0.4mm). Well, it may not be better, but
since the material is rough, it really looks like it is.
The layers are harder to see than with PLA. At 0.1 height, it makes walls almost invisible. But much more
interestingly to me, the horizontal filling is much nicer than with PLA.
Also, the extruding temperature really seems unimportant, really not like
PLA. You just can set almost anything and it prints nicely, but you will get
different colors. For this, you need to insert specific g-code manually in the
generated file or use my forthcoming Cura/Skeinforge plugin.
Also, it looks instantly "dry" out of the nozzle. So much that I may
significantly reduce the minimum time between layers so it prints faster. It
really does not look like it is melting the previous layer top when the head
moves over (looks like wet cardboard more than plastic to me). However
the layers still stick nicely to each other; may be because of the texture
more than because they get welded ?
With surprise, I realized I could bend the following object where I could not
with PLA. Hence, I suspect that this material will not stand the same
amount of stress as with PLA nor ABS. It actually looks like something between cardboard and a springy MDF(it
gets a bit stiffer with time, not much imho). The printed object also really can be painted, much more than with
PLA or ABS.
It really gives a fine result, but not for all uses.
Printed at 222, 60mm/s, 100% fill. The resulting object is quite elastic.
Printing wood (how weird does it sound!)
https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en&fromgroups=#!topic/ultimaker/cCxddfudASohttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/review-settings-for-cura-3d-printing.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/shades-of-brown-with-wood-filament-via.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/shades-of-brown-with-wood-filament-via.htmlhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboardhttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboardhttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pna_iPaY21E/UIgU-kHU_eI/AAAAAAAAAOg/FsfW6ciQEOE/s1600/wood_222deg_1.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bwwkbnMTz60/UIgVAZz4-UI/AAAAAAAAAOo/tk2I_ZAuKQE/s1600/wood_222deg_2.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xeGeReJczRE/UIgU6_nvm-I/AAAAAAAAAOQ/plUyJTHqOAI/s1600/wood3.jpghttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Medium-density_fibreboardhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/shades-of-brown-with-wood-filament-via.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/review-settings-for-cura-3d-printing.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttps://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en&fromgroups=#!topic/ultimaker/cCxddfudASo -
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Printing at 80mm/s, I could probably go much faster
A closeup HD video that show the nice "thick" paths
I would not leave the filament heating for long in the nozzle as it becomes really brown (and somehow crusty), so
there may be a risk to obstruct the nozzle (update: good prediction since it just occurredto someone!). So I purgethe head manually with regular PLA when a print is done (which now appear to me very "chemical/industrial"
compared to the wood filament).
I had no grinding at all when I checked carefully the feeder marks on the filament. May be that was thanks to my
bowden tubereplacement, or to my own feeder, or both. Actually, even though the filament surface is rough, since
the material is smooth I can move it in the bowden tube as easily as with PLA (if not more).
Also make sure to keep it in a sealed bag and somewhere it will not degrade as minedid :(
As a final note, I think this material really rocks for artists and designers, and even though I
am not an artist, I think I will always have a spool of wooden filament nearby :)
Check also how you can get different shades of brown(gradients) by varying the extruding
temperature during print.
And then, now, I want to go and invest a bit in making my own filament. Winter is coming
and I will have a pile of wood dust, together with a pile of broken PLA things. By the way, it
even smells like a biscuit :p
Tips and issues with wooden filament
Purging : from much heated wood to pink PLA. Disgusting but safer.
Conclusion
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/cCxddfudASo/LIeGcBtGBFQJhttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/cCxddfudASo/LIeGcBtGBFQJhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/shades-of-brown-with-wood-filament-via.htmlhttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fwMYm2iV8ws/UIgfhVfZTrI/AAAAAAAAAPE/ZRZyRt94gCE/s1600/IMG_1176.JPGhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/shades-of-brown-with-wood-filament-via.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/cCxddfudASo/LIeGcBtGBFQJ -
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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 7:09 PM 6 comments:
Labels: consumables,review
This could be my new businesscard, but the clean up is more difficult than with PLA
+4 Recommend this on Google
Read more
Posted by Jeremie Francois at 4:25 PM No comments:
Labels: bowden tube, replacement
Replace the bowden tube
I ordered more Teflon tubing before running out of the original two pieces I
received with the printer.
They had to be shortened regularly because they were getting damaged by
traction in the quick connectors, and instead of popping out, some even
was torn apart in the filament feeder plug !
The replacement I bought was a "teflon tube 4mm inner 6mm" (well, there
is only one way to read the diameters). I got 12 ft for $19 with shipping on
eBay.
Replace the Teflon / PTFE / bowden tube
Recommend this on Google
Homemade heated bed
https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/review-wood-filament.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/review-wood-filament.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/consumableshttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/consumableshttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/reviewhttp://www.tecrd.com/http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.html#morehttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/bowden%20tubehttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/replacementhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/homemade-heated-bed.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/homemade-heated-bed.htmlhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=5477300790700784784&target=facebookhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=5477300790700784784&target=twitterhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=5477300790700784784&target=bloghttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=5477300790700784784&target=emailhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BED6dzZfl78/UIf3nOdgHMI/AAAAAAAAANs/6FzINcTjlK8/s1600/teflon_tube1.jpghttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/replacementhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/bowden%20tubehttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.html#morehttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8936165776711207375&target=facebookhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8936165776711207375&target=twitterhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8936165776711207375&target=bloghttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8936165776711207375&target=emailhttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vfmcC0ceVnA/UIgVCDj6mxI/AAAAAAAAAOw/Y31L_XAByqU/s1600/wood_222deg_3.jpghttp://www.tecrd.com/http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IKRfPcR6r4s/UJg5Nozok2I/AAAAAAAAAcg/TBBhmRvjyjs/s1600/owl_back_small_detail.jpghttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/reviewhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/consumableshttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/review-wood-filament.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/review-wood-filament.htmlhttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587 -
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Do you really need an answer ? You just needone in my humble opinion. After I made mine, I never had an
object pop off by itself because of cooling retraction or because a small plastic blob was hit by the head while it
printed the next layer (which occurs almost all the time with tall and thin structures).
Moreover, I used a single power supply setup, that I concealed on the underside of the printer. I now have only
the mains and USB cable getting out of the printer, and carry no more bulky external power supply. It also
reduces the failures due to the tired stock power plug when someone bends over the printer...
This post is divided into 4 parts:
1. Trying different material for a cold bed (aka no hot bed!)
2. Using resistors and a sheet of stainless steel sheet (for reference)
3. Using Peltier modules (for reference)
4. Workinghot bed with a PCB (win)
First, I started printing PLA on the acrylic bed covered by the regular 3M blue scotch. Not so good, as anyone
knows, it does not stick that much (or the opposite sometimes!), and the bed needs to be redone all the time with
small gaps between the bands.
I also tried the 3M scotch 2090 (aka painters tape, 48mm), which did a bit better.
I did not try to print directly on the naked acrylic bed as some people did, because I really think it would damage i
when the head stays low for a while (which happens to me regularly, eg on lost connection or interrupted prints).
For some time, I also used sprayed adhesive on a regular sheet of paper
on the acrylic bed. This did work well, but the objects stuck so much to
the paper that they often damaged it when they were removed from the
bed. So I regularly had to remove pieces of paper from the objects and to
redo the bed.
Kapton (picture on the left) was an intermediate and classic choice. Just
buy some anyway since it is very useful all the time. It is a kind of heat-
resistant scotch that does not degrade with time.
I finally decided I really had to get a heated bed (or hot bed, or heating
bed, whatever, something semi-hot I would print upon...). What is
surprising to me is that Ultimaker still did not provide nor even
recommend an "official" one. And not surprisingly, there are as many
heated bed designsas hobbyists.
Why add a heated bed ?
Trying different material for a cold bed
Heat-resistant Kapton tape
http://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bedhttp://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bedhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-k2kRAMsdCOE/UIeQDyJLacI/AAAAAAAAAMc/i1ZEbzF2hNA/s1600/kapton.jpghttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZlVsGsFL9Lw/UIeVNjzRRzI/AAAAAAAAAMw/Wi0J67BIAzE/s1600/hotbed_cables.jpghttp://reprap.org/wiki/Heated_Bed -
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May be when the market is ready we get heated bed stock with the printer, but for now no design rule them all.
Since I also bought me a printer to hack it, I chose the obvious solution : build one on my own too (YAHB, yet
another heated bed).
I had an unused RC2C kitaround, that I bought when I thought I would naively create my own printer. Then I
cowardly bought an Ultimaker ;) Well, I still think I'll use this for a milling machine, but this will be later on.
The kit came with these block resistors (embedded in metallic cases that can be screwed on a support). Actually,
they were quite bulky and they were chosen for the R2C2 24V power supply. Powering them with a 19V madethem heat slower.
I used a convenient DS18B20cheap digital sensor to get the temperature and basic relay, which were controlled
by a small and cheap arduino pro mini. I also used an optocouplerto separate the signals.
But the final issue was that I just had no aluminum plate at the time. Instead, I used a very stiff 3 mm stainless
steel plate (so hard to cut, wow!). But stainless steel is a bad choice when it comes to heating. It was very slow to
conduct heat, and failed quite miserably in the end.
The conclusion is : do not even waste spare stainless steel for a bed !
I had a thin sheet of 1mm aluminum around, no more. It was too thin to try with the resistors, without bending it
awfully, so I switched to another design.
I glued the aluminum it to a thick plywood plank for rigidity, in which I had cut two 4cm x 4cm holes, respectively
for two TEC12710 Peltier modulesI bought on ebay (at around $13). Before using Peltier modules, I recommend
reading about them, such as from this FAQ.
Respective heatsinks were held in place with a springy but hard metallic wire (a motorbike wheel spoke, excellent
stuff to keep), itself maintained by screws in the plywood (see below). I also added some thermal paste betweenthe Peltier and the aluminum sheet.
First attempt: make a hotbed with resistors and a sheet of stainless steel
Second attempt: make a hotbed with Peltier modules and plywood support
http://www.3dprinting-r2c2.com/http://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS18B20.pdfhttp://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS18B20.pdfhttp://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMinihttp://il.rsdelivers.com/product/lite-on/ltv-817c-v/optocoupler-transistor-output-35v-dip4/6912158.aspxhttp://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=peltier+tec+12710http://www.tellurex.com/technology/peltier-faq.phphttp://www.tellurex.com/technology/peltier-faq.phphttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rLzArJI4KOM/UIeNknz7LoI/AAAAAAAAAMM/lYv2TX8GqHU/s1600/hotbed_resistors.jpghttp://www.tellurex.com/technology/peltier-faq.phphttp://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=peltier+tec+12710http://il.rsdelivers.com/product/lite-on/ltv-817c-v/optocoupler-transistor-output-35v-dip4/6912158.aspxhttp://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMinihttp://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS18B20.pdfhttp://www.3dprinting-r2c2.com/ -
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Now, this design was simple and clean, for sure. And it was much thinner than with the bulky resistor-based one.
I knew the Peltier would not heat much over ~50, but that may still have been OK for PLA. Hence I did not use
any temperature sensor, which is wrong...
Yes it heated... but only for two minutes before it killed itself.
Actually I quickly blew the two Peltier modules. For one, I would better use a fan-based active cool ing. But more,
think the power supply I bought was so harsh that the Peltier had time to melt they own core before spreading the
heat to the bed (aka reach the reflow temperature). There was no limiting temperature sensor I could check tomake them heat progressively : I should have hashed the current flow, and not applied it all, and give more time to
reach the target temperature.
The conclusion is : do not use Peltier module to heat your bed like this, unless you want to spend a lot on big
ones plusproper cooling ! Even with controlled heating to their maximum, I am not sure they would work in the
long term. They would not let you heat enough for ABS plastic neither, so it is a no go in my opinion.
Since I did not want to burn more Peltier modules, which proved to be not so cheap when you destroy them like
this, I finally switched to a classic PCB heating element.
BTW, I still like the magic of Peltier modules, and I probably will get back to them one day, but may be for an
actively cooled thermal valve.I suspect they are better used for cooling than for heating.
This one is working really well, and I like the way I did it for the leveling.
Using a PCB as a heater
This is a regular Thing-O-Matic Heater Board v1.1, that I paid $20+$6 on ebay.
It is much smaller than the Ultimaker bed size, but thanks to the aluminum sheet, I do not think it makes a
difference in the end. May be it heats less quickly but I get to 55 in one or two minutes, which is OK for me.
By the way, I could have tried first to use thin strips of food aluminum sheets instead, or even some nichrome wire
just to try to reduce the BOM. But I wanted a working hot bed now!
Third attempt: make a working hot bed with a PCB (win)
https://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/sfAFPqLYEHo/IUnyH_1gVOEJhttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/sfAFPqLYEHo/IUnyH_1gVOEJhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-pSkvHD1h_KI/UIcSJZM3zVI/AAAAAAAAAK8/ImIGBafsAyI/s1600/IMG_9575.JPGhttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HOKDbpdrx-A/UIeNqgg3xuI/AAAAAAAAAMU/pPDw_1F7uRQ/s1600/hotbed_peltier.jpghttps://groups.google.com/d/msg/ultimaker/sfAFPqLYEHo/IUnyH_1gVOEJ -
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The sensor is a 1 wire dallas DS18B20(or DS1820). It gives direct digital values so it's extremely easy to
interface. It maynot be ok for high temperatures however (ie. may not reach the ABS requirements, when you
really need high bed temperatures).
I also had to cut one track if I remember near the yellow short cable above. You may find it out by clicking on the
picture.
The cables that go to the left are for a LED. However I forgot to drill the aluminum for the LED to be seen from
the top on the bed, so I only can see it from the bed side... This is not a big problem since I hear the relay
clicking and feel the warm with my hand. Still, it would have been cool to get some light through the bed.
I tried to think of a better way to fix the PCB, but it works quite well like this with Kapton tape... KISS
I paid $8.29 en ebay for a "50mm 5cm X 33m 100ft Kapton Tape High Temperature Heat Resistant". By the way,
this Kapton tape is really useful even on cold beds and for protecting the head. Larger tape could be nice, but I
find it already difficult to lay this one properly with no spurious folds, so I am not sure a bigger tape would beeasier.
Using an aluminum plate to distribute heat and have a flat bed
Ouch, what a messy piece of work (but it will be hidden)
http://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS18B20.pdfhttp://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS18B20.pdfhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/isolate-head-with-kapton-fight-plastic.htmlhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ZiXmfxg2t70/UIcTlv0SgOI/AAAAAAAAALM/jV6gDhb4TZ8/s1600/IMG_9579.JPGhttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BT1lzmma3Lo/UIcS_JTnNJI/AAAAAAAAALE/IpHju3fVwiM/s1600/IMG_9578.JPGhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/isolate-head-with-kapton-fight-plastic.htmlhttp://datasheets.maximintegrated.com/en/ds/DS18B20.pdf -
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I drilled with 3mm, and used a 8mm drill (see also this useful tool)for the bevels so the screw heads are flush. I
wanted to add a glass on top of the alu bed from the beginning, to protect both the aluminum and the head.
Talking about the aluminum, this is a 3mm thick 25x25 cm item I got for 5+8 for this "Aluminium Sheet - 3mm x
250mm x 250mm" on ebay. I just could not find the same thickness at local hardware shop, weird. And I suggestthis is right, but the minimum thickness for an alu bed whatever you put on top of it.
Using rubber pivot beneath the aluminum bed
I think this is my real contribution to heated beds : these pieces of rubber really simplify the bed leveling b/c they
provide a unique and quite convenient central pivot, with the addition that the 3 screws no more need springs !
One very nice kind of rubber are the halves of destroyed squash balls ; these are almost indestructible (at least
without a racket)...
The big ring is to distribute the load on a bigger surface and push firmly the PCB against the aluminum, while
leaving some room around the temperature sensor. Its thickness is a bit bigger than that of the 2 nuts on the
screws as seen below.
I kept the outside edges open so that heat flows outwards. The aluminum may be heated more uniformly this way
(which is probably not significant), but more importantly, it cools down faster after a print by letting hot air flow
outside.
http://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/bevel-bowden-tube-ends.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/bevel-bowden-tube-ends.htmlhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mHOwfv-sY0A/UIcUhUWNEII/AAAAAAAAALc/9q1rbogD5ks/s1600/IMG_9582.JPGhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-xe_tJtlJRF4/UIcUGDVXKBI/AAAAAAAAALU/9HTpLjjcVMQ/s1600/IMG_9580.JPGhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/bevel-bowden-tube-ends.html -
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I did not worry that the wood bends with temperature, since the three screws are attached to the aluminum in the
first place. Its main use is to isolate the PCB so that the heat goes primarily to the aluminum, and not elsewhere.
I painted the wood black with some metallic spray, partly because I did not want to spend the time varnishing it as
the rest of the printer ;)
Heated bed final setup
Once again, no spring and only three screws made me quite happy compared to the initial setup !
The real trick is the two pieces of rubber in the middle, that act both as a pivot and a spring.
Also, there are only 3 screws, not 4 of them. They are 3mm thread diameter, I drilled one hole on the back of the
Z-carriage. The front one are in the small and already damaged Delrin stock parts.
Next step would be to get rid of the whole existing Z plywood. I have a bit of up/down freeplay because the two Z
linear bearing are not clamped enough by the arm plywood, and same with the Z ballscrew (well it's no ballscrew
in fact).
Soon or later, I will head towards a triangular support made of steel rods, pointed towards me. And may be add a
third vertical rod and linear bearing in the front of the bed to make the whole platform very steady.
Add an overall oven glass on top of the aluminum ?
Finally, I added an oven glass on the top of the aluminum sheet. It was cut for me for a so-called discount price
because of its size for about 25 (huh).
The layered bed as seen from the side. I have just enough room to plug the power and signal cables.
I added a cheap black plywood bottom layer to avoid wasting heat, and to spread it evenly.
Final setup: screws should be shortened to get more Z volume (which I never missed so far)
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EAojm-VEUk8/UIcVf5KdBsI/AAAAAAAAALs/TSHYV2i0crU/s1600/hotbed_final.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eoIq-Mokn7Q/UIcVSAiYuwI/AAAAAAAAALk/anuatcCn2NY/s1600/IMG_9583.JPG -
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I really think it improves the setup for two reasons at least :
it makes the surface absolutely flat (the aluminum is almost never
really flat and moves with temperature)
it dampens the temperature raise very homogeneously: the aluminum
conducts heats very quickly, and then diffuses upwards in the glass from
everywhere
Printing on oven glass or not?
Initially, I was expecting to swap between two glass plates in case the parts were hard to remove, but this proved
false even when the bed was kept hot (ie. it's easy to pop the object from the glass, even when hot).
I added Kapton on the glass, not sure why but I like it. May be I feel that it protects the class against scratches,
even though an oven glass is almost indestructible (I dropped it once from about 1m20 on the hard floor with
barely a scratch!). I think Kapton also gives a tiny bit of margin to better adjust the Z bed leveling, especially as
you'll see the head scratch the Kapton when it's too low...
Finally, it improved how the object sticks to the bed.
Since the oven glass extremely robust compared to regular glass that I would not want to use, I even used paper
clips to hold it in place with pieces of Kapton under the clip jaws. Using four of them forces contact with the
aluminum everywhere. This is NOT recommended for regular glass that probably would break (the two materialexpand quite differently with heat). In any case, I used two pair of pliers to make the paper clip a bit looser/wider.
In the first picture in this post you'll notice that I added a dumb plastic clamp to keep the cable close to the printer
wall, though I could print a smaller dedicated clip.
One single power supply located under the printer
The single-power supply setup (with the extended feetI had to design)
http://www.blogger.com/www.thingiverse.com/thing:25438http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kQDnGZXO9V4/UIcgSe9CM-I/AAAAAAAAAL8/P-VA86sQhAQ/s1600/IMG_9597.JPGhttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l2tQX2HtblA/UIebXAPWzbI/AAAAAAAAANE/8dBwovVi49s/s1600/paperclip.jpghttp://www.blogger.com/www.thingiverse.com/thing:25438 -
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I bought this power supply from ebay (a 300W 24V 12.5A Switching Power Supply, for $26+28), and then I
cowardly tuned it to 19V, as there is a convenient trimpot, and so I could solder wires directly to the power
connector of the main board. I was glad to get rid of the old and bulky external power supply, and have everything
within the printer.
The power supply never had an issue since October 2011.
A second output of the power supply powers an arduino pro mini (see the bottom- left case? ). It controls the
heated bed temperature through a relay. For now it just does bang-bang with a 1 hysteresis, targeting a fixed
temperature of 55.
There is a dumb off/on switch that goes to the other side but I plan to add some better interface later (eg. 7-digit
led temp display + control), or get back to a thermistor and plug the logics to the main printer board so I benefit
from Marlin firmware support.
Integrate the hot bed electronics to the Ultimaker firmware ?
Sincerely, I would not have my hot bed powered by the stock Arduino main board neither the stock power supply
At least buy a bigger power supply, then use a cheap relay (or a huge and costly low-resistance mosfet). And
recompile the firmware in order to disable bed PWM (not suited for a relay).
I would not power the Ultimaker with anything else than 19V also because I don't want to take any risks, even
though some people used 21V (the regulator is said to get really hot).
Having separate hotbed electronics and control NEVER was an issue to me. May be one day I will switch to a
firmware-controller hot bed, but I would have to recompile it because it will not support the convenient DS1820temperature sensor I used anyway...
Future improvements
There is no main switch at all, but I since added a self shutdown circuit(aka suicide), that also switches the
hotbed off. May be I will try a safer watchdog with the pro mini to spy on the printer noise or vibration and shut it
automatically when idle for some time.
My setup also powers 2 serial short strips of leds (2x12V). I sticked them on the vertical walls of the box, and
though it makes it like the NASA by night, it is not really the most efficient place. I need to design a printed
support and post about it.
The schematics are straightforward: the DS signal goes to pin 12 (see arduino playgroundfor more on this), aswitch is added to pin 11 (to the ground to disable heating the bed), and the relay is driven with a small transistor
on pin 10 to avoid asking too much current from the arduinopro mini (why? how? see this detailed postfor
example). I even could use a single AVR 8 pin chip, not an $10 arduino.
For now, temperature is hard-coded to 55, here is the raw source code:
#def i ne DS18S20_I D 0x10
#def i ne DS18B20_I D 0x28
#def i ne PIN_BED_SWI TCH 11 / / on/ off mai n swi t ch t o enabl e/ di sabl e heati ng the bed
#def i ne PI N_RELAY 10 / / t he rel ay pi n
#def i ne BED_TEMP_MI N 54
#def i ne BED_TEMP_MAX 55
/ /
/ / OneWi re Li brary: htt p:/ / www. pj rc. com/ t eensy/t d_l i bs_OneWi re. html
/ /
#i ncl ude
OneWi re ds(12); / / t he DS18 sensor pi n
byt e dsAddr[ 8];
l ong prevMi l l i s= 0;
enum { TMP_OK=0, TMP_AVAI LABLE=0, TMP_I N_PROGRESS=1, TMP_NOT_FOUND=- 1, TMP_BAD_CHECKSUM=- 2,
TMP_UNKNOWN_DEVI CE=- 3 };
i nt getTemperat ure(byte addr[ 8], f l oat * t emp)
{
*t emp= - 100;
i f ( addr [ 0] ==0) r et urn TMP_NOT_FOUND;
byte i ;
byte present = 0;
byt e data[ 12] ;
i f ( prevMi l l i s==0) / / start conversi on
{
ds. reset( ) ;
The electronics and arduino code that drives the relay
http://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/11/auto-shutoff-at-end-of-print.htmlhttp://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/OneWirehttp://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/OneWirehttp://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMinihttp://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/119http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/119http://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/119http://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardProMinihttp://playground.arduino.cc/Learning/OneWirehttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/11/auto-shutoff-at-end-of-print.html -
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ds. select( addr) ;
/ / Start conversi on
ds.wri te(0x44, 1); / / RequestScratchPad
/ / Wi l l wait some t i me. . .
prevMi l l i s= mi l l i s ( ) ;
r et urn TMP_I N_PROGRESS;
}
i f ( mi l l i s( ) < prevMi l l i s + 850)
r et urn TMP_I N_PROGRESS;
/ / I ssue Read scr atchpad command
present = ds.r eset( );
ds. select( addr);
ds.wri t e(0xBE); / / ReadScrat chPad
/ / Recei ve 9 bytes
f or(i =0; i
-
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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 1:37 AM No comments:
Labels: bed,electric, heat, mechanical, replacement
e se
{
Ser i al . p r i n t l n ( " ( i dl e) " ) ;
}
l ast Temp= t ;
del ay( 650);
}
}
Feel free to ask for more info, and, yes, you need a heated bed also ; it really changed my life ;)
+8 Recommend this on Google
Tuesday, October 23, 2012
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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 9:10 PM No comments:
Labels: general,review, software
Review : which software for 3D printers?
Example: Cura as a smart front end to show, scale, slice and print
A short review o f 3D-pr in ting softwares
Recommend this on Google
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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 6:55 PM 5 comments:
Presenting my eBay Ultimaker clone (part 2): the head
You may want to check also the first part.
To the credit of my seller, the printer came with a few special improvements from the real machine. To his
discredit though, freely using the name Ultimaker is illegal, and I am far from sure that he released these
modifications under an open hardware licence, as requiredby the initial designers of the Ultimaker. As a general
rule, consider also that your free support should come from your seller and especially not from the company that
got abused in the first place!
An improved hot head that looked like an o ff ic ial V2
https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/homemade-heated-bed.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/homemade-heated-bed.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/bedhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/bedhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/electrichttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/heathttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/mechanicalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/replacementhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.html#morehttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/generalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/generalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/reviewhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/softwarehttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.html#morehttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.com/2012/10/my-ebay-ultimaker-clone.htmlhttps://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/ultimaker/yKvBBLhSRsA/DcOH9VmRPBIJhttp://blog.ultimaker.com/open-source-hardware/http://blog.ultimaker.com/open-source-hardware/https://groups.google.com/forum/#!msg/ultimaker/yKvBBLhSRsA/DcOH9VmRPBIJhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.com/2012/10/my-ebay-ultimaker-clone.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.htmlhttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/presenting-my-ebay-ultimaker-clone-head.html#morehttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=3812906593088597324&target=facebookhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=3812906593088597324&target=twitterhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=3812906593088597324&target=bloghttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=3812906593088597324&target=emailhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zgN8ieGpiTM/UIbd44itjVI/AAAAAAAAAKE/Mfr9WcTyWBM/s1600/cura.pnghttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/softwarehttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/reviewhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/generalhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.htmlhttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/the-software-side-of-view.html#morehttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=4073573905131840174&target=facebookhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=4073573905131840174&target=twitterhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=4073573905131840174&target=bloghttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=4073573905131840174&target=emailhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/replacementhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/mechanicalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/heathttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/electrichttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/bedhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/homemade-heated-bed.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/homemade-heated-bed.htmlhttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587 -
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Labels: general,hot end
Recommend this on Google
Read more
Posted by Jeremie Francois at 9:28 AM 6 comments:
Labels: bowden tube, mechanical
Bevel the bowden tube ends
I use a very convenient toolto
deburr/countersink/bevel the bowden tubeends. I
found it by chance and it is very cheap. Now I use it
everywhere (it also will deal with aluminium by the
way).
There are two reasons to use it on bowden tube ends
in my opinion :
it reduces friction of the filament on the tube
square edges
it makes the tube softer so that it can be applied
with progressive force against the PEEK for
example, for a better seal
Before buying the tool I used my biggest drills, but it
was much harder to do a proper job.
Recommend this on Google
Monday, October 22, 2012
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Posted by Jeremie Francois at 11:11 AM No comments:
Labels: feeder,mechanical, replacement
Printed filament feeder small gear
The small stock delrin gear on the feeder stepper motor got some freeplay with time. I first replaced it with one I
found on thingiversemade by Chasmaker. You can download my derivative here.
Recommend this on Google
http://www.tridimake.com/search/label/generalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/generalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/hot%20endhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/bevel-bowden-tube-ends.html#morehttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/bevel-bowden-tube-ends.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/bevel-bowden-tube-ends.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/bowden%20tubehttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/mechanicalhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/bevel-bowden-tube-ends.htmlhttp://www.wolfcraft.com/en/products/p/hand_countersinks/1_hand_countersink/s/p/index.htmlhttp://www.wolfcraft.com/en/products/p/hand_countersinks/1_hand_countersink/s/p/index.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/replace-bowden-tube.htmlhttp://betterprinter.blogspot.fr/2012/10/robust-bowden-attachment-with-blind.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.html#morehttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/feederhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/feederhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/mechanicalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/replacementhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.htmlhttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26428http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45407http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45407http://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8919313198359049059&target=facebookhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8919313198359049059&target=twitterhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8919313198359049059&target=bloghttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=8919313198359049059&target=emailhttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iL-tHtTpjrk/UIUKjt94-_I/AAAAAAAAAJc/r9DUN5N5qQ0/s1600/small_gear.jpghttp://www.thingiverse.com/thing:45407http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:26428http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.htmlhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/replacementhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/mechanicalhttp://www.tridimake.com/search/label/feederhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.html#comment-formhttp://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.htmlhttps://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587http://www.tridimake.com/2012/10/printed-filament-feeder-small-gear.html#morehttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=2461147058293208245&target=facebookhttp://www.blogger.com/share-post.g?blogID=3615478772815290200&postID=2461147058