3D Knitted Textiles

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B HIR D R UNIVERSITY

Ethiopian Institute of Textiles and FashionTechnology(EITEX)

SEMINAR ON 3D KNITTING

PREPARED BY: SELAMU TEMESGEN

SUBMITTED TO : Dr.S.Kathirrvelu Professor Textile Tech.

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Contents

Introduction

Classification of 3D knitted fabrics

Manufacturing method for 3d textiles

Properties of weft and warp knitted 3D fabrics

Types of machines used for 3D weft and warpknitting

Application of 3D fabrics

Principles to obtain 3d knitted fabrics


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3D-Textiles

1.Introduction

Development of three-dimensional knittedfabrics dates from the 19thcentury

The concept of three-dimensional of the textile

materials is not related to the intrinsic value ofdimensions found on the three axes (x, y, z), but to

the relationship between them.

This relation characterises the importance of thedimensions in the geometry of the material.

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A three-dimensional fabric, regardless of the

process used, is a continuous ensemble, with fully

integrated fibre, characterised by multiaxial spatial

orientation

Creating a three-dimensional effect on knits is based

on the following techniques:

I. Insertion of additional yarns along multiple

directions;

II. Knitting and linking independent layers in

different ways;

III. Spatial shaping.


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2. Classification of 3D knitted fabrics

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3.3D Textiles - ManufacturingMethods

Manufacturing methods:

Braiding

Weft knitting

Warp knitting

Weaving

Stitched assemblies

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Manufacturing Methods WeftKnitting

Basic technique: Forming a loop through previously formed such

loops.

One yarn makes one row of the fabric.

General properties: The specific shape of the individual loops results in an elastic

material

Fabric thickness is low 3D geometry

Patterning allows manufacturing of tailor-made

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Fabric Formation Elements Weft

Knitting

Individually controlled needles

Consecutive knitting on every next needle

One thread per row

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4. Machines used Weft

Knitting

Two kinds of machines:

Flat bed

Possibility to make tubular products, shells, thicknessreinforced (spacer knits) and some complex structuresas a combination of these

Patterning of shape and loop architecture Circular

Tubular and spacer tubular fabrics

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5.ApplicationScope Weft Knitting

Weft Knitting:

Somewhat limited 3D application dueto the relatively low thickness of thematerial

Biomedical

Composites (formable matrix)

Reinforcement (Y-pipe, T-Pipe)

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Manufacturing Methods Warp

Knitting

Basic technique:

Fabric formed by interconnecting loops.

Machine used-Double needle bar raschel is commonly used

A set of individual yarns for every needle.

General properties:

Less elastic fabrics

Products with considerable thickness 3D structures

Patterning allows repeated structures to be manufactured

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Fabric Formation Elements Warp

Knitting

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Application Scope Warp

Knitting

Warp Knitting:

Composite materials

Aerospace industry composite matrix

Civil engineering concrete reinforcement, acoustic

insulation

Military - ballistic protectionBiomedical vascular stents

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5 P i i l f Ob i i Th


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5.Principles for Obtaining Three-

Dimensional Knitted Fabrics

To produce three-dimensional fabrics, the knitted material can be

formed by the technique called spatial fashioning technique (also

known as flechage).

Three-dimensional structures can be created also

by knitting stitches and loops combined with the

lateral movement of the needle bed.

By increasing or decreasing the number of working

needles it is possible to create three dimensional

knitted items on intarsia knits.

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Conti

The methods of making three-dimensional items on

flat knitting machines are:

1. Incomplete knitted rows technique (spatial

fashioning);

2. The use of patterns with 3D effects egg. Knittingtuck stitches patterns combined with racking;

3. Knitting separate fabrics connected in between

sandwich/spacer fabrics;

4. Integral knitting /wholegarment.

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Conti

1 Incomplete Rows Knitting Technique

Incomplete rows knitting technique is atechnique used by designers of knits to create

three-dimensional knitted items or tubular

knits

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2.Use of Patterned Structures with 3D Effects

The most known example is the so called egg nest fabric, created by

Shima Seiki.

The pattern is based on cardigan evolutions combined

with successive racking in opposite directions.

Another example is a jersey fabric with a zone with miss stitches while the carriers produce

stitches on the opposite bed.

When the missing stitches are discharges, the stitches

produced on the opposite bed are transferred to theworking bed.

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3 Sandwich Fabrics A knitted layered item (sandwich) is a 3D structure,

composed from two outer layers knitted together

independent, connected by byarns or other knittedlayers, as shown below

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Sandwich fabrics with connection through knitted layers present a largerange of development possibilities :

increase in the fabric thickness based on the length of the connection

layers;

modification of the geometry of external fabrics due to the use of

connecting layers with different length;

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4. Integral Knitting TechniqueIntegral knitting technique is an improved stage in the development of

technologies for flat knitting machines .

So far it is the most advanced knitting technology throughwhich a garment is completely assembled on a knittingmachine without the need of sewing. Seamless knittingtechnology is a method that cuts off waste and reduces

costs. The seamless garment is very comfortable and resistant

to wear.

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THE END

THANKS

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3D Knitted Textiles

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