3 2 3 Elongated Twills

7/31/2019 3 2 3 Elongated Twills

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1) The density ratio changes the

fabric appearance. (See Fig.3.14)


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2) The shift changes the fabric

appearance. (See Fig.3.15, Fig.3.17)


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3) weave drawn:

(1) Calculate the repeats, RO & Ry

Ry=RyB

Where, ROB, RyB are basic twill repeats.

(2) Draw the first end according to the formula of the basic twill

(3) Draw the other ends according to the same formula, but with thechanged shift


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4) Applications and sample Some fabrics made from the diagonal

weave are: whipcord, ladys cloth.


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Curved twills produce a curvilinear appearance

when the inclination angle of diagonal increases

gradually. As we know, the inclination angle of the diagonal

may be changed by changing the shift. The curved

twill can be constructed by alternating shift of the

basic twill in either vertical or horizontal direction.

The alternation of shifts is made by the wish of the

designer.


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The sum of shifts must equal 0 or can be

divided by a repeat without remainder.

The biggest shift must be less than the

biggest overlaps, for avoiding the curved

line breaking.


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The basic twill is twill :

The curved twill with thealternating vertical shifts

having the following

succession:

So=2 2 2 1 1

1 1 0 1 0

0 1 0 0 0

1 0 0 1 0

1 1 1 1 2

2 2 2

(Where the sum of shifts equals 26, two times of 13 which is the weave repeat )

4 1 1

3 1 3


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The basic twill is still

twill:

The alternating vertical

shifts are

2 2 1 1 0 1

0 0 1 1 0 1 1 1 -1

1 1 0 -1 -

1 0 0 -1 0 -

1 -1 -2 -2.

4 1 1

3 1 3


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Drawing vertically curved twill weaves are asfollowing:

1) Calculating the repeats:Ro = numbers of the alternating shifts.

Ry = weft repeat of basic twill

2) Drawing the first end according to the formula of thebasic weave.

3) Drawing the other ends based on the shifts designed.

Horizontally cured twill weaves can be drawn in a similarlyway


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1. Whipcords made from weave formula

(1) So=2

(2) So=2drawing the above weaves. 2. Drawing the curved weave, the basic

twill is , the vertical shift S0=2, 2, 1, 1,0, 1, 0, 0, 1, 1, 0, 1, 1, 1, -1, -1, -1, 0, -1, -1,0, 0, -1, 0, -1, -1, -2, -2 ,and drawing theweaving plan using as small number ofshafts as possible.

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3 2 3 Elongated Twills

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