207 Identify the health and maintain the condition of general amenity turf

The importance of checking turf regularly High quality lawns should be inspected regularly to identify any problems that need to be addressed so they can be dealt with before they spread or cause long lasting damage. Checks might be made for pests, diseases, moss and weeds etc.

Why the types and frequency of checks made might be different for the different types of grass.

Obviously not all lawns are of the same quality, grass type or importance.The amount of checking and work required will vary dependent on

a. The presentation required- Where a high level of presentation is required lawns will require a large input in terms of maintenance.

b. The grass typeLawns that are mainly rye grass will require more mowing than lawns that are comprised on fescue and bent grasses

c. The soil and site the lawn is growing onLawns on free draining soils in full sun will be quick to dry out in summer and will require more water than lawns on heavy soils in shaded areas.

How to identify damage caused by pests

Insect pest damage will result in the grass dying back in patches; this will most noticeable in periods of stress for the lawn (such as summer) when damage to the grass roots means the grass suffers from drought. These will tend to be brown in colour. To establish is pests are the problem you can cut back the turf and inspect the soil below to see if any pests such as chafer grubs are present.

Also birds pecking the surface of the lawn is a good sign that pest are below the surface

Common turf pests

Chafer grub and2 leather jackets. Mole hill. Worm cast

How to identify damage caused by disorders

A disorder is a problem that affects the grass but is not a weed, pest or disease e.g. compaction is a problem.

Some common disorders

Fairy rings compacted lawn surface

How to identify moss or lichens in lawns

Moss can be a temporary problem following drought or waterlogging, or more persistent, suggesting a problem with underlying conditions. On new lawns this may be due to poor site preparation. On established lawns poor vigour, acidic soil conditions, a lack of feed, insufficient aeration, poor drainage, shade, close mowing and over-use are likely to blame.

Killing and removing the moss is just the start. To remain moss-free, the vigour of the grass must be improved and any other contributory factors addressed. Good autumn lawn maintenance is essential to maintaining lawn health.

There are several types of moss that grow on lawns. These are usually coarse, loose, green or yellowish-green tufts between the grass, but can form densely matted tufts or, in the case of Polystichum, appear like small forests of miniature Christmas trees.

Moss gives the turf an uneven colour and surface. Loose mosses make the lawn feel spongy to walk on.

Poor growing conditions favour the growth of moss in lawns. These might include:

Sparse grass cover Worn areas of turf, especially along walkways and where children play Shady areas, especially beneath trees Compacted soil Wet weather and waterlogged conditions Drought-stressed grass Mowing too close Impoverished lawns or infertile soil Poorly prepared or poorly maintained lawns Acidic soil conditions

Non-chemical control

Scarification: Remove loose moss in autumn, by scarification (vigorous raking). On small lawns this can be done by hand, raking out the moss with a spring-tine rake, but on larger lawns mechanical scarifiers can be hired.

Chemical control

For moss control use a proprietary product, such as those based on ferrous sulphate (sulphate of iron) in spring or early autumn. When the moss blackens after two or three weeks use a spring-tine rake to remove it. The dead moss can be added to the compost heap. The ready-to-use formulations of ferrous sulphate can be used to spot treat small patches of moss on lawns.

Mosskillers combined with a fertiliser (nitrogen, phosphorus or potassium, indicated by the abbreviations NPK) are beneficial where grass vigour is low.

Apply mosskillers either by hand or with a push-along spreader. Be careful not to apply lawn sand (ferrous sulphate mixed with a carrier) at too high a rate as this can blacken and burn the grass as well as the moss. Apply lawn mosskillers in fine weather. Some require watering after 48 hours if there has been no rain. Check pack for details. Control with a mosskiller will only be temporary unless the conditions which allowed the moss to become established are improved.

Note on ferrous sulphate: Although ferrous sulphate is widely offered as a fertiliser and soil acidifying agent, unless it is contained within a proprietary lawn mosskiller it is not approved for use as a pesticide and cannot be legally used to control moss. In addition, if it were to be applied as a mosskiller on lawns there is a high risk that it will blacken and potentially kill the grass.

LichensLichens are often found growing in damp or shady places in the garden. Although harmless in other areas of the garden, they can be problematic on lawns. As well as affecting the appearance of the lawn, they block light from reaching the grass and can make the surface slippery.

In turf the most common lichen is Peltigera spp. (dog lichen); it is brown or grey and formed of flat structures that grow horizontally in the turf.

Lichens are found on lawns where poor drainage and shady conditions cause a damp surface.

Moss in lawn Lichen in lawn

The range of turf conditions and the threats to turf health :

Reasons for dealing with disorders

The sun.Drought (Lack of water) and heat stress

3. Weeds which compete with the grass for space, water and food as well as looking unsightly

1. Frost-you should not walk or use machines on frosted lawns

8. Fungal diseases such as Fusarium and Fairy rings

2. Shade from overhanging tress and tree roots, which steal water from the lawn

Compacte

6. Compaction from heavy machinery e.g. mowers 7. Pest-Dog urine, which kills the turf

5. Lack of fertiliser which leads to poor growth or too much fertiliser which encourages weed grasses and the build-up of thatch

GrassGrass

4.

4. Insect pests attacking the grass root system

They affect the quality of the lawn and they affect he health of the lawn. Because they weaken grass growth they encourage further problems such as the invasion of weeds, diseases, moss etc. Also weakened grass is more easily damaged by wear caused by people walking over it and is more susceptible to conditions such as drought.

Dealing with disorders in turfTurf disorders can be in the main dealt with in 2 ways

Physical methods of dealing with threats to turf healthThis is to physically attack/deal with the conditions causing the disorder, for example by scarifying the lawn surface to remove thatch.

Cultural methods of dealing with threats to turf healthThis means changing the environment of the lawn surface so it is less suited to the disorder. For example if we aerate a lawn we can improve drainage and therefore reduce the problems of compaction and moss.

Chemical method of dealing with threats to turf healthThe range of threats that are dealt with by chemical means tend to be

Weeds- to control weeds in turf we use selective herbicides designed for use on grass, these kill the broad leaved weeds but leave grass unharmed

Pests- For insect pests we use insecticidesDiseases- For the control or prevention of turf diseases we use fungicides

Moss- For the control of moss we can use chemicals such as sulphate of iron that burn the moss or pesticides that kill the moss

How irrigation can be used as a method of dealing with threats to turf healthThe application of water to turf can prevent many problems just as a lack of water can create problems.Ensuring turf grass has enough water will ensure growth is strong and weeds and moss are prevented from gaining a foothold in the turf.

The different watering regimes for different types of turf such as fine turf and coarse turf

The closer turf is cut the less root system underground it will develop. Therefore close cut turf will require high water input (more watering) than lawns that are cut at a higher height.

Why apply fertiliser to lawns?

In order for grass plants to grow well they need the correct nutrients (food) which they obtain from the soil. Correct feeding will help ensure

1. Good health growth keeping out weeds and diseases

2. Ability of the turf to withstand general wear and tear

Fertiliser terms explainedThere are many types of fertiliser available and the choice can become very confusing, the next section will try to explain some of the terms used by producers of fertilisers.

Slow release fertilisers- these fertilisers are designed to feed the plant for a long period normally 4-8 weeks but they can last up to a year. The main benefit of slow release fertilisers is they release their contents slowly meaning the grass growth is steady reducing mowing needs.

Quick release fertilisers- these release their nutrients in a short period of time (1-2 weeks), they are useful for getting quick green colour and growth. However they do have to be applied more often meaning more labour time and expense. A common quick release fertiliser is “Sulphate of ammonia”. This is a high nitrogen fertiliser for use in spring and summer.

Fertiliser formulations – fertilisers come in 3 types

1. Granules are easy to handle and apply, but can take a while to work into the turf surface (risk of boxing off when mowing).

2. Powders are messy to handle and are easily blown around in the wind (often covering the operator and nearby plants) however they work into the turf surface quickly.

3. Liquid fertilisersThese are fertilisers applied to the turf in a liquid form; they are absorbed quickly by the roots or in some cases through the grass leaves (note fertilisers designed to act in this way are known as foliar feeds)Liquid feeds are quick and easy to apply (provided you have a sprayer) also there is less risk of scorching the turf surface.

What fertilisers does grass need to grow well

The three most important nutrients for grass growth are as follows

Nitrogen- (N) Causes rapid growth of grass and improves green colourPotassium- (K) Helps grass withstand dry conditions, wear and tear and helps with disease resistance.Phosphorus- (P) Helps with root growth usually available from the soil and does not need to be applied in large amounts.

It is these three elements that are often shown on the front of fertiliser bags as three numbers

N P KI.e. 10 6 6

These numbers refer to the percentage of the nutrient in the bag (in this bag the amount of nitrogen is 10%). This will help tell you when the fertiliser is designed to be used.

For exampleA Fertiliser with a content of 15 – 4- 6 would be for use in the spring summer due to its

high nitrogen content. Whereas a balanced slow release fertiliser with a content of 4 –

4 - 4 would be used as an autumn feed.

Turf conditionersSome materials are applied to lawns to improve their condition they are not exactly fertilisers a good example is “Sulphate of Iron. This is applied to lawns mixed with sand (to ease application) and will turn the grass dark green without causing growth and kill any moss present. It should be used with care as it can badly burn the lawn surface.

Applying fertilizers: _The time of year and its effects on feedingMost fertiliser is applied to turf is when it is actively growing, this being in the spring and summer and fertiliser designed to be used at this time of year will have a high nitrogen content to promote grass growth. Some fertilisers are designed to be applied in the autumn; these are known as autumn or winter feeds and will have a low nitrogen content.

Do not use a high nitrogen fertiliser on lawns in the autumn or winter as it may cause

soft lush growth leaving the turf open to attack from the fungal disease fusarium

patch.

How should I apply fertiliserFertiliser needs to be applied carefully and evenly if damage to the turf surface is to be avoided. Always apply fertiliser evenly by using some kind of markers, applying it from 2 directions (half the amount each way).

Calibration of a spinning disc (cyclone type) fertiliser distributor.

1. Look at the fertiliser bag and find the application rate (for this example 35 grams per Meter Square (35gpm2).2. Lay out three 1 meter square sheets of cloth on a clean workshop floor (do not use plastic as the fertiliser will slide off the slippery surface).3. Set the distributor to the half way mark and run it over the sheets walking at the same speed you use when you actually apply the fertiliser to the turf

4. Weigh the material on the centre mat and continue trail runs until correct amount (30gpm2 in this case) is thrown onto the mat. Don’t forget to clean off the mats after each trail run!Once the required amount is laid on the centre mat you must weigh the material produced on the outer mats. In a perfect world it would be half the amount of the centre mat and for this example we will assume that this is the case.

For the following example we will assume a spread of 3m and an application rate of 35grams per m2.

1st run on green

17.5g 35g 17.5g

Note most of the fertiliser has fallen on centre mat.17.5g

30g 17.5g17.5g

30g 17.5g

Operator withmachine Return run on green with overlap 3m width of spread ensuring even application.

In the above example the amount of overlap required will be 1m. In real life you will need to experiment with the machine you are using and try to get the most even application of fertiliser possible. Often it will be impossible to get it perfect but you will get close. Once you have calibrated a machine record the details so you do not have to do it all over again when you next use the same fertiliser.

Drop Spreaders. These machines are easy to calibrate as they apply fertiliser evenly along the length of spread. Therefore all that is required is the laying out of a 1m square sheet and then run the machine over the sheet ensuring the whole sheet is evenly covered. Weigh the amount on the sheet and repeat the process adjusting the spreader until the correct amount of fertiliser is applied to the sheet.

It should be noted that to ensure an even application and ensure no areas are missed many turf managers apply the fertiliser in two passes each at right angles to the other.

How to apply the fertiliser to the turf surface.

Drop spreader type distributor Spinning disc type spreader.

Amenity lawn care- Turf scarification

Scarification1. Scarifying (sometimes called thatch removal) refers to the operation of vigorously

raking/slicing the turf surface with the intention of removing thatch, dead grasses etc. When scarifying with a machine we would tend to set the blades to cut slits in the turf surface to cut into the thatch layer (note blades must not be set so deep as to engage the underlying soil as this will blunt the blades of the machine very quickly). The blades on a scarifying unit would be quite thick (to withstand the high

wear) and set wide apart to avoid causing too much damage to the surface.

Images Scarifying reel, note lines cut into turf surface.

Drop spreaders are easy to use as they drop fertiliser evenly along the length of the machine. There is no risk of fertiliser being thrown onto plants or ponds. However it must be noted that any overlap is a 100% over application and will most likely scorch.Note: The diagram shows a drop spreader being used on a square lawn with 1 pass being made. Note some turf managers make 2 passes to avoid missing areas if this is done then it is vital to remember to calibrate the machine to apply half of the required application rate on the fertiliser bag.

The above diagram shows a spinning disc type spreader being used on a round lawn with marker posts being used to help avoid missing areas. In some cases the posts are replaced by a fellow worker who acts as a marker taking a set number of steps after each run. As with the drop spreader often two runs are made at right angles to ensure no missed areas are left. If you choose to apply from 2 directions remember to calibrate the machine to apply half of the required application rate on the fertiliser bag.

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What are the advantages of scarifying

1. By raking the surface we can remove and help prevent thatch. Thatch is a layer of organic material made of dead old grass leaves and roots. This layer causes many problems such as poor rooting of the grass,.

2. The reduction in thatch and improved airflow around base of plant also helps prevent fungal diseases such as Take All Patch and Fusarium patch

3. The slicing of the grass surface helps encourage the finer grasses (as they pass undamaged between the cutting blades).

4. As only fine grasses can pass through scarifying and verticut undamaged the courser grasses and weeds are sliced up and their growth is discouraged. This also applies to moss as long as it is killed before scarifying (raking living moss will help spread it across the grass surface).

When should we scarify turf surfacesIn general terms we scarify turf when it is actively growing as this allows the grass to recover from the scarification. This means that most scarification is carried out in the spring, early summer and the early autumn. Scarification is not normally carried out in the winter as the grass is not growing and the thinned grass that would result might become invaded by moss and other weeds. Scarification is also best avoided in conditions of extreme heat as the turf could become severely stressed. Scarification is best done gently and often, as this will encourage fine grasses as they adapt to the constant raking. There is no correct amount of scarification, as it will depend on the amount of thatch you have the type of grass, how much you feed your turf and the quality of the lawn you wish to produce.

How to carry out scarification1. Always mow the grass before scarifying this will help ensure that you get the best

result2. With some types of scarifiers it might be wise to check the depth of cut on an area

of less important turf before you begin.3. The depth of cut you set will depend on what you are trying to do but always

remember you should never let the blades come into contact with the soil under the lawn surface as this will very quickly blunt them

4. If you are making more than 1 pass over the turf area ensure that you change direction by about 15 degrees for each pass. Do not scarify at right angles.

5. After you have finished always check the surface for stones that might damage mowers

Thatch

Thatch is the result of a build up of organic matter on the turf surface it is comprised of dead grass leaves, shoots and roots. It results in a soft spongy lawn prone to drought.

Close up view of a scarified turf surface

A little thatch is desirable as it helps cushion the root system from damage. However when it is allowed to build up in excessive amounts it will result in slower surface drainage, increased pests (worms) and disease problems. Thatch also encourages the grass to form a shallow root system that quickly suffers from drought stress in hot dry weather.

Thatch is caused by a build-up of organic matter anything that encourages excessive grass growth or contains organic matter will help encourage thatch. This might bea. Over watering turfb. Over feeding turfc. Using top dressings that contain large amounts of peatd. Not boxing off the clippings when mowing

The picture below shows a slice of turf with an extensive build-up of thatch (over 1 inch in this case). The coin shows where the thatch meets the underlying soil. Note the shallow roots a common feature on turf with a high thatch content.

Top dressing turf

What is top dressing?Strictly speaking top dressing is the application of materials to the surface of the lawn; these could be sand, soil or fertilisers.

Most people would today understand top dressing to mean the application of bulky materials to the turf surface.

How do we top dress lawnsThe material is thrown onto the lawn using either by hand with shovels or by machine. It is then spread evenly over the surface using tools called lutes or by using a brush or drag mat.

What can be used to top dress lawns?

Only 4 materials are available

1. Sand (use rounded horticultural sand not builders sand/silver sand or soft sand)

2. Soil (use soil that has been sieved and sterilised if possible to avoid weed seed and stone problems).

3. Peat4. Organic matter (well-rotted compost)

Why do we top dress lawns?1. The materials we apply (i.e. soil) may contain nutrients useful for grass growth2. The materials may improve the soil drainage i.e. sand3. The materials may help retain moisture in very light soils (i.e. peat/organic matter)4. If we spread the materials over the lawn with a lute it will help level and/or smooth

the lawn5. The materials may help improve the soil i.e. by adding sand to clay soils we can

improve the resistance of the lawn to compaction.

When should we top dress lawns?

Lawns should be top-dressed when the grass is actively growing i.e. in the spring, summer and in the early autumn.

When should I not top dress lawns?

Lawns should not be top dressed a. When the lawn surface is damp as this will make it difficult to spread the material. b. In the winter as the turf is not growing and the topdressing will smoother the grass

leading to possible attacks of the fungal disease Fusarium.

Applying and working in top dressing

Using a Sisis Trulute to work dressing into surface. Lutes can also help level lawn surfaces

Using a Sisis drag brush to work dressing into a lawn.

Sisis pedestrian top dresser, ideal for large lawns.

Aerating turf

Aeration is the making of holes in the turf surface; this is done by hand with garden forks or special aeration forks or by machines fitted with various metal tines. Machines using compressed air and water have also been used but for general work these are expensive.

Why is this done to lawns?

When lawns are walked on or machines are used on the lawn they squash the soil particles together. This process is known as compaction. Heavy soils such as clays compact easily whereas sandy soils resist compaction. Soils compact most easily when wet.As the soil particles are squashed closer together the air spaces in the soil are driven out.

It is the air spaces in the soil that a. Allow the soil to breathe i.e. Co2 produced by plant roots is allowed out of the soil

and oxygen is allowed into the soil.b. Allow roots to pass through the soilc. Allow water to drain from the soil.d. Provide air for soil bacteria to live in

In short

Reasons for aerating

1. Helps the bacteria in the soil to break down thatch2. Helps improve surface drainage lessening soil compaction3. Helps encourage the finer grasses4. Helps prevent fungal diseases due to better drainage5. Helps grass root deeper into soil6. Helps remove thatch from the soil (hollow tines)7. Helps get top dressing into the lawn surface.8. Makes the lawn more resistant to drought and wear.

When should aeration be done?

It is best to aerate in periods of active grass growth and the spring (March/April) and the autumn (September/October) are considered to be the best times.

When should aeration not be done?

a. In periods of drought (summer) as the grass will be stressed and may turn brown.b. When the soil is frozen or very dry as it will be hard to get the tines into the soilc. When the soil is very wet as you will smear the soil making drainage worse

After aerating a lawn area always check the surface for stones that may have been pulled up, as these will damage the mower the next time you cut the lawn.

Some of the effects of aeration on soil health and grass growth

1. Irrigation andrainwater can get into soil (better drainage)

2. Oxygen can get into soil *

Plant roots can grow down into aeration

4. Carbon dioxide

and other gasses can escape out of

Soil3. Grass roots can grow down into aeration holes. This makes the grass more resistant to dry weather

the soil

How climate and soil conditions affect turf growth and its need for maintenance

Grass grows best when the soil is warm and moist so spring and early summer will be the periods when most mowing is required. This is also a good time to maintain lawns as they can quickly recover from any work done to them.

Care should be taken if the soil is very dry or very wet as working on wet soils may compact the soil and lawns suffering from drought will be unable to recover from maintenance operations.

When the soil is frozen no operations should take place on lawn surfaces.

Mowing Why is mowing required1. To control grass growth2. To provide a pleasing striped finish to lawn surfaces

Mowers for amenity turf areas1. Cylinder mowers, which rely on a number of spiralled blades mounted to a reel. These spin rapidly and pass in sequence over a fixed bottom blade (bed knife) in a scissor like action. Therefore the higher the number of reel blades the higher the number of cuts per rotation (cuts per linear meter). 6-8 blades are normal for fine turf mowers. The one drawback of fine turf mowers is due the high number of blades they will not cut long turf and they are limited to turf less than 40mm. Cylinder mowers for long grass will have 3 to 5 blades.

Holes made by aeration tines

Sarrel rollers

These hand pulled rollers are designed for pricking the surfaces of lawn areas. They are ideal for keeping the surface open when applying irrigation water.

www.BMStools.com

2. Rotary mowers are also used widely on lawns; they cut using the impact of fast spinning blades. They do not give as neat a finish as cylinder mowers, but the blades are less easily damaged and can be sharpened without special tools and equipment.

1. Picture of a Ransomes Super Certees 51.This picture clearly shows the cutting blades of a cylinder mower. These blades spin very quickly against a fixed bottom blade. The grass is pulled between the cylinder blades and the bottom blade and is then cut is a scissor like action.

2. The cutting action of a rotary mower, unlike a cylinder in cuts the grass by impact action.

Getting the best from your mower1. As fine turf mowers have thin blades they are easily damaged by stones etc.

Therefore it is important to check lawns prior to mowing and remove any debris.

2 Check the blades of the mower prior to use; if the blades are dry or rusty apply a little light oil they will turn more freely for testing. It is important to ensure blades are adjusted evenly along the entire length of the reel. Correct gap between reel and bottom blade will ensure a clean cut without excessive cylinder wear or engine strain. As a general rule if correctly set and in good condition a cylinder will cut normal A4 paper folded once but crease a single sheet of A4.

3. After use always wash blades clean and apply a light coat of grease or oil to prevent rusting.

Conditions for mowingThe best conditions for mowing are dry soil and turf surfaceDo not mow ifa. The lawn is frosty b. The lawn is very wet underfootc. The lawn is covered in wet worm casts (wait till they dry out then remove by

brushing)d. The lawn is covered with fallen leaves (remove by raking before you mow)

Checking the surface prior to mowingAs fine turf mowers have thin easily damaged blades, lawns should always be checked for debris before mowing. For example

1. Worm casts -. Worm casts on lawns should be removed by brushing as they willa. Stick to the front roller raising the cutting height b. Get into the cutting action blunting the mower blades.c. Be smeared all over the lawn surface spoiling the look of the lawn and create a

uneven lawn surface

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2. Stones – Will damage the cutting action, main problem is gravel kicked off of paths onto the lawn area.

3. Leaves and branches from trees Leaves smoother the grass and prevent it from being mown neatlyBranches can get stuck in the cutting mechanism causing jams, which might damage the mower or put the operator at risk when they are removed from the blades.

Should the clippings be removed from lawns?As lawns are mown cut grass is produced this is known as “clippings”. On fine turf

lawns these are normally removed by fitting a box to the front of the mower to collect

them. However there may be times when it is desirable to allow them to fall back onto

the lawn surface.

Advantages of removing clippings Advantages of letting the clippings return to the surface

a. Neater surfaceb. Helps stop the spread of weeds and

mossc. Avoids the build-up of thatch

a. Makes the job quickerb. Avoids the problem of how to dispose of

the clippings.

Other reasons for returning clippingsFor up to 1 week after applying fertiliser (to prevent mower picking up fertiliser in box).After spraying weed killers on lawn (chemicals could be transferred on to compost pile).

How should clippings be disposed of?To ensure the environment is not polluted clippings should be collected and a. Stored for removal via a contractorb. Composted for recyclingNever store large amounts of clippings near water this is because as they break down they can release a black liquid, which is toxic to water life (i.e. fish).

Effects of the climate and time of year on mowing Put simply the colder the soil and the shorter the day the slower the growth of the lawn. The warmer the soil and the longer the day the more you will need to mow.

When we talk about mowing we use the following termsa. Frequency- this means how often we cutb. Intensity- this refers to the height at which we cut the lawn

This is best expressed asSpring Summer Autumn WinterWarm moist soil Rapid growth Start to lower height of cut example 12mm Cut 1 to 2 times a week

Height can be lowered to required height8-10mm

If very hot/dry conditions raise cut to reduce stress on turf

Raise cut height

Reduce mowing to once a week

Highest cut, this will help protect turf from wear and tear. Cut as required but do not allow turf to get to long max. 1 inch.

What should a well-cut lawn look like?

1. It should be cut in straight lines of equal width

2. It should be free from clumps of grass clippings

3. It should be neatly edged after mowing

The correct method of mowing a lawn.

What if I cause any damage during mowing operations? a. If the damage is to property not belonging to your company (i.e. you scrape a

car in a car park) then you should report it to the owner (do not accept responsibility) and then report the matter to your line manager.

b. Damage to equipment or the lawn report to you line manager

Some common types of lawn damage when mowing

1. Scalping the lawn (cutting to low)-check cut height before mowing and slow down if ground is bumpy.

2. Thin lines of uncut/different colour grass -These thin lines are often caused by mower cut not being set properly or by a small chip in bottom blade of mower. To avoid check cut and replace/regrind damaged blades

3. Tearing -grass has a very ragged finish to tips when cut this is very noticeable on fescues and ryes grasses it is caused by blunt or badly set mower blades. To avoid set blades correctly before mowing or get blades sharpened

Safety of yourself during mowing operations

Before you use any type of mower you should receive training on the operation of the machine and the risks involved in using it. You should be given the machines manual to read and then be trained under close supervision until your line manager feels you are competent to use the mower safely. By law all work place operations should have a written risk assessment and you should read the appropriate Risk assessment sheet for the operation as it will highlight all the dangers involved in the use of the mower. These might include cuts to hands, feet, being crushed by a mower if it rolls on a steep bank etc. The Risk assessment sheet will also identify any protective clothing required such as steel toe capped boots etc.

Before using a mower you should check it is in a safe condition for example

a. Stop switch works and is in easy reachb. Any guards/ covers are fitted correctly and undamagedc. All controls work smoothlyRemember by law you are responsible for your own safety at work and using a mower in a dangerous condition may lead to you and your employer being prosecuted under The Health and Safety at Work Act

Safety of the mower

Modern mowers are very expensive and therefore deserve careful maintenance, before using a machine always refer to the manual for prestart checks. These will vary from mower to mower but normally the average ride on mower will require at least the following checks

1. Checking engine oil2. Checking all controls function3. Checking quality and height of cut4. Checking air filters are clear5. Checking any safety cut out switches function

4. Oil or petrol on grass- never park the mower on the lawn for long periods (i.e. over tea break). Never refuel the mower on the lawn

5. Do not mow in wet conditions as the mower will slide and damage the turf surface as well as compacting the soil. Turning too quickly or to sharply will also damage the lawn.

Checking the height of cut on a cylinder mower.

As the mower sits on the lawn it is resting on its front roller and its rear roller. I we place the mower on a workbench and place a metal straight edge along the two rollers we can measure the distance between the straight edge and the point at which the cylinder crosses the bottom blade. This is the height that the mower will cut. This height of cut can be adjusted as required.

Wood or metal Straight edge, this represents ground level

Rear roller

Front roller

Cutting cylinder

Height of cut

Bottom blade (or bedknife)

Diagrammatic side view of a cylinder mower

Setting the quality of cut

A cylinder mower cuts grass by trapping it between the bottom blade and the cylinder in a scissor like action. The gap between the bottom blade and the cylinder can be adjusted. If the gap is too large the grass will not be cut cleanly, and if the gap is too tight the blades will not be able to spin freely leading to damage to the mower blades (and possibly the mower drive system).

The correct gap will depend on the type of mower; some very large units as fitted to gang mowers may need an air gap between the cylinder and bottom blades to allow for the expansion of metal as it heats up during use. However most mowers can be set with paper, this should be good quality A4 paper

(not cigarette paper which is to thin). The paper is placed between the cylinder and

bottom blade and the gap is adjusted until the paper is cut as the cylinder is rotated

by hand. When the cut is correct it should crease a sheet of A4 but cut the sheet when

it is folded in half (double thickness) this means the difference between being on cut

and off cut is the thickness of A4 paper. The blades should turn freely, if you need to

tighten the blades until they are stiff in order to get them to cut, then the mower

needs to be sharpened.

Lawn edging and repairsThe edging of fine lawns is required as over time they (the edges) become worn or sometimes damaged. The worn edge is normally cut back using a tool called an edging iron (sometimes known as a half-moon due to the shape of its blade). In order to ensure lines are cut straight a string line is laid along the lawn edge and held in position with pins. Once the line is laid out a board is used as a guide to cut the edge. For curved lines a hose pipe can be laid out along the curve pinned into position and then used as a guide to cut around.When cutting the edge always ensure you cut slightly sloping angle onto the face of the lawn edge, this will help prevent the edge being damaged if someone walks on it.

Worn edges should be recut with a half moon. Ensure the edge slopes out towards the base for increased strength

General trimming should be carried out with hand shears

Repairing damaged edges

Often the edge of the lawn can be damaged by feet etc. A simple method of repair is as follows

1. Cut around and under damaged area

2. Lift the damaged area and turn it 3. Fill damaged area with soil and seed.180 degrees and relay.

The equipment which will be necessary for the care of lawnsA whole range of equipment hay be required depending on the size of the siteHowever the basic equipment will be

1. Mower (rotary or cylinder)2. Rakes for scarifying turf3. Aeration equipment (hand fork or pedestrian type)4. Shovels and lutes for top dressing5. Fertiliser distributors6. Sprayers7. Brushes for brushing the surface8. Half-moon for cutting edges9. Shears for trimming edges

Methods of maintaining equipment used in lawn operationsWhen equipment fails to work on site it can result in serious delays therefore workers should check it is ready for use before they leave the depot. Examples might be carrying out prestart checks to machines such as checking oil, fuel, grease, that the machine starts.Also carrying basic tools such as spanners etc. in case things come loose is a good idea.Keeping equipment clean will also help ensure it works correctly.

After work all equipment should be cleaned and if required dried to avoid corrosion problems. Bare metal surfaces e.g. cylinder mower blades can be lightly oiled to prevent rusting etc. This must be done with the engine off.

Current health and safety legislation and code of practice which applies to this area of work

The Health and Safety at Work Act (HASAWA)The is probably the most important legislation it is quite complex but has the following main aimsTo protect workers and other people on the work site.1. Employers musta. Take steps to ensure safety of their work force(It is for the above reason that risk assessment is required. Risk assessment requires that the employer assesses the risks of all work place operations and then takes steps to remove or reduce those risks).b. Take steps to ensure safety of visitors, customers and the public who enter the

work place

2. Employees (you) musta. Take reasonable steps to protect themselves at workb. Take reasonable steps to protect others at work (work mates, public etc.)c. Not interfere with any equipment provided for their safetyd. Co-operate with management to help ensure H/S is maintained.

Noise at work regulations 1989These regulations are aimed at protecting the hearing of workers.They place a responsibility on employers to provide free ear hearing protection is noise reaches a set level.85dB Employees can request free hearing protection90dB Employees must wear hearing protection140dB Employees must not be exposed to this level of noise, as no protection will

workAs a rough guide a strimmer is approx. 108 dB.

Manual Handling Regulations 1992

These regulations are aimed at preventing injuries caused by lifting, moving heavy of awkward objects.Employers musta. Assess the risks of such lifting, moving operationsb. If possible eliminate the operation (i.e. by using a forklift etc.).c. If required train staff in the safe lifting and handling of objects.

Provision and use of Work Equipment Regulations 1998 (PUWER).Set of regulations that require employers ensure all tools and equipment used at work (from a hammer to a mower) are

a. Suitable for intended useb. Safe for usec. Maintained correctlyd. Carry appropriate warning labels

Describe how environmental damage can be minimised when maintaining lawns

Damage to the environment can be avoided by a number of means e.g.Calibrating sprayers so only the required amount of pesticide is usedRecycling grass clipping etc. on a compost pile rather than send to landfillTaking care when refuelling to avoid spillsNot using fertiliser near to water courses (streams etc.)

The correct methods for disposing of organic and inorganic waste when maintaining lawns.

Non-hazardous waste i.e. grass clippings, these can be recycled by composting.

Hazardous waste i.e. waste oil, old batteries from mowers etc.-collect in marked containers with spill protection and dispose of via an approved waste contractor for recycling.Empty pesticide containers should be rinsed and the rinses should be added to the sprayer tank. Once rinsed the empty container should be stored in a safe locked container for approved contractor disposal.