PERU A 2016 LIU TRAVEL COURSE

Contact Prof. Willie Hiatt at willie.hiatt@liu.edu

CUZCO

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CUZCOOVERVIEW

ABOUT THE PROGRAM WHEN: January 1-16, 2016 WHERE: Cuzco, Peru PROFESSOR: Dr. Willie Hiatt (Ph.D., University of California, Davis) CONTACT: willie.hiatt@liu.edu COURSE: “Andean History, Culture, and Politics” (HIS 189, HIS 360, HIS 599 and Core Credit) CREDITS: 3 COST: $4,301 ($3,153 tuition, $1,148 travel fee) plus airfare COURSE BLOG: liucuzco2016.tumblr.com COURSE SITE: La Casa Campesina, Avenida Tullumayu 274, Cuzco, Peru

ABOUT CUZCO ALTITUDE: 11,154 feet (3,400 meters) POPULATION: 358,935 (2007) TIME ZONE: In January, same as Eastern Time Zone

LANGUAGES: Spanish, Quechua EXCHANGE RATE: $1=3.10 soles TOURISTS PER YEAR: 2,000,000 FLIGHT TIME: New York-Lima (8 hours); Lima-Cuzco (1.5 hours) PRINCIPAL ATTRACTION: Machu Picchu, the “lost” city of the Incas and one of the seven New Wonders of the World (2007) TEMPERATURES IN JANUARY: Average high is 65 degrees; average low is 47 degrees; occasional rain

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CUZCOCOURSE

THE PROFESSOR

The Peru course enjoys an organic connection to Prof. Willie Hiatt’s intellectual and personal interests. He fell in love with Cuzco during his first visit in 2000 and has spent more than six months teaching, traveling, and conducting archival research in the region. He has published peer-reviewed articles on Cuzco aviation, newspapers, and photography, and more importantly, has toured the region on a motorcycle. Prof. Hiatt’s book, The Rarefied Air of the Modern: Aviation and Technological Modernity in Peru, is due out in early 2016 with Oxford University Press. His research will be based in Peru for the foreseeable future. He currently is working on a new social and cultural history of Peruvian electricity. The Tumblr blog of his 2014 Cuzco course is here: http://liucuzco.tumblr.com COURSE AND PROGRAM SITE

“Andean History, Culture, and Politics” is a three-credit elective. The program offers a unique educational and cultural experience for students with diverse interests and backgrounds. The course combines rigorous classroom study with cultural excursions in and around Cuzco, the capital of the Inca empire when the Spanish arrived in 1533. Students will spend two days and two nights at the Inca site Machu Picchu and visit museums and archaeological parks. This travel course advances international and cultural perspectives essential to a liberal education. Prof. Hiatt has designed the class to appeal to students with diverse interests in culture, society, and politics. The only prerequisites are intellectual curiosity and wanderlust, although students who most thrive in this program prefer hiking boots to bathing suits, comfortable hostals with shared rooms and bathrooms (but with Wi-Fi) to luxury hotels. The course requires moderate hiking and a desire to experience a living, breathing historical archive as seen in the people, clothing, architecture, streets, cafes, language, markets, and food.

Prof. Hiatt, front, returned home safely with most, if not all, of the twenty-four students who took his Peru course in 2014. From left is Steven Laurino, Andre LeBlanc, and Megan Rocke.

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The classroom component emphasizes primary sources, including Spanish chronicles, travel accounts, fiction, art, and films. The course surveys the pre-Colombian world, the Spanish conquest and colonial era, and the Peruvian national period, including Cuzco’s emergence as one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations. Beyond the classroom, students will visit cultural sites in and around Cuzco, a city of more than 350,000 located within a day’s drive of many Inca remains. Attractions include museums, Spanish churches, and pre-Hispanic archaeological parks such as Sacsayhuamán, Pisac, Tipón, Moray, Ollantaytambo, and Pikillacta. The highlight is Machu Picchu. Students will travel by tourist train to Aguas Calientes, the small town at the base of the park, and spend two days exploring the area and two nights in a hotel. Cuzco today is an international tourist destination and the staging ground for visits to Machu Picchu. At more than 11,000 feet above sea level, Cuzco is a beautiful—and literally breathtaking—city in which Spanish colonial architecture rests atop Inca foundations, a visual metaphor for the uneasy melding of European and Andean influences. The narrow, winding streets of the San Blas neighborhood evoke a medieval city in an Andean setting. After New York-Lima and Lima-Cuzco flights, students will lodge, dine, and study at La Casa Campesina, a cultural and intellectual hub situated in rustic stone and adobe buildings. Associated with the Centro Bartolomé de las Casas, the Casa Campesina is a non-government organization dedicated to regional development and research. The site offers shared student rooms, dining (three meals a day), smart classrooms, Wi-Fi, and a library with English-language texts. The center is located just minutes from Cuzco’s main square. DAILY ITINERARY

Friday (January 1): Departure from New York-JFK Airport

Saturday (January 2): Arrival in Cuzco, Class Orientation

Sunday (January 3): Afternoon Class

Monday (January 4): Morning Group Project, Afternoon Class

Tuesday (January 5): Morning Class, Afternoon Excursion: Sacsayhuaman, Q’enko, and Tambomacha

Wednesday (January 6): Afternoon Class, Class Dinner

Thursday (January 7): Morning Class, Afternoon Excursion: Moray and Salinas de Maras

Friday (January 8): Morning Class, Film Night

Saturday (January 9): Departure for Machu Picchu, Group Hike to Mandor Waterfall

Sunday (January 10): All-Day Excursion to Machu Picchu

Monday (January 11): Morning Hike Up Putucusi (Optional), Afternoon Departure for Cuzco

Tuesday (January 12): Morning Class, Afternoon Class

Wednesday (January 13): All-Day Excursion: Sacred Valley: Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero

Thursday (January 14): Morning Class, Afternoon Excursion: Southern Valley: Tipón, Andahuaylillas, Pikillaqta

Friday (January 15): Morning Class, Afternoon Class; Farewell Banquet

Saturday (January 16): LIU Post and Brooklyn Students Depart for United States; LIU Global Students Depart for Costa Rica

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CUZCOTRAVEL

AIRLINE ITINERARY

TBA BAGGAGE ALLOWANCES

TBA ESSENTIAL PROGRAM DATES

Check-In/Orientation Saturday, January 2 First Day of Class Sunday, January 3 Last Day of Class Friday, January 15 Checkout/End Date Saturday, January 16 ACCOMMODATIONS

Casa Campesina Av. Tullumayu 274 Apartado 477 Cusco-Peru Web page: http://www.hotelescbc-cusco.com/casacam/ Phone: (+51) (84) 233 466

Red-tiled roofs attest to Cuzco’s colonial legacy, which began when the Spanish arrived in 1533.

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EMERGENCY NUMBER IN CUZCO (911 EQUIVALENT)

Ambulance, Police, and Fire: 105 UNITED STATES CONSULAR AGENT IN CUZCO

Av. Pardo 845, Cuzco Phone: (+51) (84) 231-474 Mobile: (+51) 984-621-369

The consular agent is available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, for emergency assistance in Cuzco or the surrounding area. The consular agent cannot provide travelers with emergency passports, but can assist in coordinating with the Embassy. INTERNATIONAL CALLING AND TEXTING

For cell phones, you MUST check your plan and settings for international usage. For summer travel in Peru, Prof. Hiatt goes on-line and changes his AT&T phone plan to include 200 international text messages (which can be sent and received most everywhere). Wi-Fi is available at La Casa Campesina and many cafes, including the new Starbucks. You also can communicate with your family by Skype, FaceTime, and WhatsApp. Cheap Internet sites or cabinas (less than $1 per hour) are plentiful in Cuzco. A public phone inside La Casa Campesina allows international calls with a pre-paid card.

Calling Cuzco from the United States:

Dial (011) international direct access + (51) country code for Peru + city code + number For example: 011-51-84 (Cuzco city code)-231-474

Calling Another Country from Peru:

Dial (00) international direct access + country code + area code + number For example: 00-1 (country code for the U.S.) 516-299-2407

INTERNATIONAL TRAVEL

Please consult the U.S. Customs and Border Protection Agency for international travel tips. Go to: http://www.cbp.gov/travel INTERNATIONAL STUDENT IDENTITY CARD (ISIC)

The ISIC card is required, and the discounts in Peru more than pay for the card. Go to https://www.isic.org MEDICAL ISSUES

Please consult your primary-care physician for the following: Vaccinations. No proof of vaccinations is required to enter the country. However, for travel to Peru, the Center for Disease Control recommends that all travelers update routine vaccines (measles-mumps-rubella (MMR), diphtheria-tetanus-pertussis, varicella (chickenpox), polio, and yearly flu shot); that most travelers get Hepatitis A and typhoid vaccines; and that some travelers get Hepatitis, malaria, rabies and yellow fever shots. Traveling with proof of vaccines is a good idea but not required. Prof. Hiatt got most of these vaccinations before beginning dissertation research in Peru.

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Antibiotics. You should expect to have stomach issues at some point, and since this is a short trip, you do not want to be sidelined for long. Prof. Hiatt’s primary-care doctor prescribes for him antibiotics for stomach problems and colds. After about three days of illness, you will be glad you brought Cipro with you. Also recommended is Pepto-Bismol and Imodium A-D. Altitude sickness. Ask your doctor about medicine for altitude. Cuzco sits at more than 11,000 feet above sea level, and the Andean air affects everyone. Peruvians even have a word for altitude sickness: sorroche. Most likely you will experience initial light-headedness, shortness of breath, or headaches, but most people adapt quickly. We will rest the day we arrive and drink lots of green tea called mate de coca. PACKING

Students can decide whether to use a large travel backpack or conventional suitcase on wheels. Prof. Hiatt is too old for backpacking, so he chooses the latter. Mobility is not an issue since we do not leave the Lima airport and go directly from the Cuzco airport by taxi to the Casa Campesina. You may also want to take a smaller carry-on and/or daypack or messenger bag for the overnight Machu Picchu trip. Prof. Hiatt takes both. By traveling south of the equator, we will arrive in Peru’s summer. Expect the nights and mornings to be chilly (40s and 50s), the afternoons sunny and comfortable (60s and 70s), and occasional rain. No heavy winter coat or clothing is necessary; instead, prepare to dress in layers (jacket, fleece vest, sweaters, etc.). Take comfortable shoes or light hiking boots. Nights can be chilly. Be prepared to sleep in layers. Take sweats or warm pajamas. Drop-off laundry facilities are plentiful, so plan to do laundry at least once during the trip.

Students will spend two days and nights in Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu.

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The sun is bright (and close) at high altitudes. You will need sunblock and lip protection, although most everything is available in Cuzco stores. TECHNOLOGY AND ELECTRONICS

Students are not required to take laptops or iPads, but they come in handy for assignments, photo management, chatting, emailing, video-calling, etc. For what it’s worth, Prof. Hiatt will have his laptop, iPad, iPhone and Canon T3i camera. Rooms are locked, but if you decide to take your laptop, you should secure it using a cable lock. LIU is not responsible for stolen items. If you decide not to take your laptop, you can do assignments in public Internet cabinas. MONEY ADVICE

You should inform your bank and credit card companies in advance that you will be traveling abroad. Failure to do this could result in losing access to your funds while abroad. For safety, take some cash with you ($100 or so) but withdraw the rest in Cuzco. ATM machines are everywhere and will dispense money (in dollars or Peruvian soles) from almost any U.S. bank. Learn from Prof. Hiatt’s experience and check the expiration on your debit card. Taking a second debit card is recommended. Do not rely on just one means of getting cash. Consider taking a debit card, credit card, and cash. In case of emergency, Western Union is a fast and cheap way to receive money in Cuzco. PASSPORTS

Make photocopies of your passport before you go and keep them separate from the original. You will need the original for the trip, but while in Cuzco, you will want to only carry the photocopy.

Students live, study, and dine at the Casa Campesina, a rustic comfortable hotel and conference center.

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CUZCOFAQ Is this course for me? Students LOVE Cuzco and Machu Picchu, but this is not a relaxing Cancun vacation. Two points: 1) Given the altitude and mountainous terrain, hiking around the city and archaeological sites is demanding. However, most students thrive in this environment. In fact, in 2014, all students and even Prof. Hiatt climbed Huayna Picchu, a one-hour, uphill hike inside Machu Picchu. 2) Although the Casa Campesina is adorable, safe, and comfortable, it is not a four-star hotel. Students share rooms; all bathrooms and showers are communal, with occasional cold water, à la hostals; and nights can be chilly. How much does it cost? The total cost for tuition, room, board, all excursions, and the Machu Picchu trip is $4,301 (not including airfare, which is estimated at $1,000). Many universities offer financial aid for study abroad and travel programs. Please begin to inquire at your study abroad office ASAP. How much spending money will I need? Cuzco has a diverse selection of restaurants, bars, and clubs at all price points, not to mention a HUGE souvenir industry. Frugal students can get by on $250; others should plan on $400. What if I don’t speak Spanish? Two million or so tourists visit Cuzco each year, the vast majority of whom do not speak Spanish. Cuzco is an international city that thrives on tourism. Some Cuzqueños even will be able to understand a New York (and Prof. Hiatt’s Kentucky) accent if accompanied by effective hand gestures and non-verbal cues. How do we get to Cuzco? Prof. Hiatt will accompany all students who wish to travel with him on the eight-hour flight from New York to Lima and the short in-country flight from Lima to Cuzco. Students who want to fly from other parts of the country may do so, but everyone must arrive in Cuzco early on January 2. How do we get to Machu Picchu? Unfortunately, we will not hike the Inca Trail like Che Guevara in The Motorcycle Diaries. The class will take a comfortable tourist train from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes, a small town at the base of the park, and spend two days exploring the ruins. Will I need to buy books? A limited number of texts (chosen for scholarship and packability) are required; Prof. Hiatt will make other readings available by PDF. What does a typical day look like in the course? Class sessions and/or excursions are scheduled for most days. Sometimes we will have class sessions at archaeological sites. We spend the second weekend at Machu Picchu. Some nights include a class dinner at a Cuzco restaurant, a group movie night, or other entertainment hopefully arranged by someone cooler than Prof. Hiatt.

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Will the altitude affect me? Yes. Cuzco sits at more than 11,000 feet above sea level, and the Andean air affects everyone. Peruvians even have a word for altitude sickness: sorroche. Most likely you will experience initial light-headedness, shortness of breath, or headaches, but most people adapt quickly. We will rest the day we arrive and drink lots of green tea called mate de coca. How’s the weather down there? By traveling south of the equator, we will arrive in Peru’s summer. Expect the nights and mornings to be chilly (40s and 50s), the afternoons sunny and comfortable (60s and 70s), with occasional rain. Will I need a passport? Yes. If you do not already have one, visit this site as soon as possible: http://travel.state.gov/content/passports/english/passports/new.html You also may acquire one faster by visiting an area passport agency. Will I need a tourist or student visa? No. At the Lima airport, customs officials will stamp your passport with a visa good for three months. Will I need a student ID? Yes, but not the one from your university. All students should acquire the International Student Identity Card (the discounts in Peru more than pay for the card). Go to https://www.isic.org. What will we eat? Peruvian cuisine is multicultural, reflecting Spanish, indigenous, Chinese, Japanese, and other global influences. Chicken and rice is a staple dish. Fish, beef, and pork are readily available. Meals are often carb heavy, so don’t be surprised if rice, potatoes, and pasta are served together. (That’s why Prof. Hiatt always gains weight during summers in Peru.) What’s more, Cuzco has outstanding restaurant for all budgets. You will want to try the roasted chicken and thin-crust pizza prepared in wood-fired, stone ovens. The best pizzarias are El Molino (No. 1) and Chez Maggie (No. 1A). Where can we get coffee? The Starbucks on the main plaza must be one of the loveliest anywhere in the world, and the Wi-Fi is great. However, supporting local coffee houses such as Café Cappuccino would be a nice gesture. Who supervises students? Prof. Hiatt will accompany students to and from Peru and on all excursions and field trips. He also will lodge at La Casa Campesina. However, this is a college study-abroad course that gives students lots of free time and independence. Responsible behavior in compliance with LIU (and Prof. Hiatt’s) rules is expected. Prof. Hiatt speaks Spanish, has lived in Cuzco, and has visited all the sites included in the course. He knows the area well. In case of illness, Cuzco enjoys modern clinics and hospitals. What if I want to do drugs while in Peru? Purchasing and using drugs is illegal and strictly prohibited by Prof. Hiatt. All offenders will be sent back to the United States immediately at their own expense and receive an “F” in the course. This point is not negotiable.

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Can I take a friend? No. First, liability issues prevent unaffiliated students from participating in course events or excursions. Second, an important part of study abroad is the group experience. Prof. Hiatt is responsible for assuring a positive group dynamic. An alternative is to meet a friend AFTER the course and stay in Cuzco a few extra days. Can I stay in a hotel instead of the Casa Campesina? No. All students must lodge together (see preceding entry on friends). Can I travel on my own, say, to Puno and Lake Titicaca? No. Again, liability issues prevent independent travel. Also, since we have only 14 study days, class activities are scheduled for every day. With parental permission, you may extend your stay after the course and travel anywhere you like. What if I’m interested in Peru but find history classes boring? Thank you for your honesty. Although the course is “Andean History, Culture, and Politics,” Prof. Hiatt has conceptualized the program broadly to appeal to students interested in archaeology, art history, geology, religion, travel, etc. Excursions comprise more than half the course. Nevertheless, the pre-Colombian, colonial, and republican past is everywhere in Cuzco, so even if you don’t like history, you might step in some if not careful. Do I get LIU credit for the course? Yes. This is a three-credit, upper-division History course whose only prerequisites are intellectual curiosity and wanderlust (the course also fulfills a core History requirement). Some departments other than History (Political Science, for example) will consider granting credit as a cross-listed offering. Please see Prof. Hiatt about this option. Non-LIU students will also receive three credits. What’s the next step? Students must fill out and submit an application and then decide whether to take the course by October 10, 2015, at which time a $500, non-refundable deposit is required. A formal organizational meeting will take place the week after Thanksgiving. LIU requires a minimum of 10 students, so recruit your friends!