2016-07-06 MIRASIL range

MIRASIL®

for Personal Care

July 2016

Content

Silicone in

Personal Care

Where ?

and

Why?

Silicone origin

Properties and

Cosmetic

Benefits

Hair Care

Conditioning,

color, thermal

and

photo protection

Skin Care and

Color Cosmetics

Softness, soft

focus, shine,

dispersion

2

Where and why use silicones in Personal Care ?

formulations

3

•Markets

•Hair Care •Skin Care •Color cosmetics

Hair Care

Shine on hair

Easy combing

Anti-frizz effect

Silky feel

Color & thermal

protection

Skin Care

Softness

Enhance spreading

Long lasting

Water resistance

Color cosmetics

Shine

Pigment spreading

Transfert resistance

Softness

Silicone is an ingredient for final cosmetic formulations

Silicone Synthesis

4

What are silicones ?

5

Si

O

Si

O

Si

O

Si

O

Si

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

109°

140°

CH3H3C

Inorganic siloxane backbone with methyl/organic pendant groups

-Si-O-Si-O- -CH3

Polydimethylsiloxane polymer “ DIMETHICONE ”

Bond Bond energy

(KJ/mol)

Si - O 445

C - C 346

Bond Angle (°)

Si - O - Si 140

C – C - C 110

What makes silicones original ?

6

Good forcosmetic

formulations

Brand names & INCI

7

Brand names & INCI

8

9

Mirasil High purity

products

Mirasil

amodimethicone

Mirasil SERUM

Multifunctional silicone

Mirasil HALS silicone

Mirasil Phenyl

functional silicones

Mirasil Performance

concentrates

Mirasil PDMS oils

Conditioning

Light- non

greasy feel

Shine &

Softness

Detangling

Thermal protection

Wet&Dry

combing

Color protection

Photo Protection

Mirasil micro-emulsions

MIRASIL® for HAIR CARE applications

MIRASIL® CM5

10

INCI: Cyclop en t asiloxane

Si

O

Si

O

Si

O

Si

O

Si

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

CH3

Also available with low D4 content (D4<0,1%) Mirasil CM5 HP

Features Advantages in formulation Cosmetic benefits

High purity

D5 > 97.0%

D4 < 0.9%

D5 + D6 >99.7%

Medium volatile fluid

Carrier for actives delivery

Improves pigment distribution

Excelent spreading properties

Non comedogenic emolient

Soft, dry hair and skin feel

Conditioning: MIRASIL® DM HV

11

Mirasil DM 60000 - 500000


High molecular weight linear

polydimethylsiloxane

Visco: 60 000 - 500 000 mm2/s

Compatibility

(with cosmetic ingredients) High conditioning

Dimethicones HV: Dry combing performance

12

All MIRASIL®

Dimethicones show an

excellent significant

performance in dry

combing, specially

Mirasil DM 500000.

CTRL: 10% SLESA2: Mirasil DM 60000 (Shampoo + Conditioner)B2: Mirasil DM 500000 (Shampoo + Conditioner)C2: Mirasil DM 350 (Shampoo + Conditioner)Blue: Basal measureOrange: Final measure

Specialties: MIRASIL® Performance Concentrates

13

High m olecular w eight polym er dilut ed in

a low viscosit y solvent

Solvent INCI MIRASIL name

C-DM

C-DMB

C-DML

C-DML LV

C-DML MV

C-DML HV

D-DML

D-DML LV

D-DML HV

Cyclopentasiloxane and Dimethiconol

Dimethicone and dimethiconol

D5

DM Low viscosity

Cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone

Potential hair reconstruction

14

The sealing effect on the cuticle morphology was quantified using scanning electron microscopy.

MIRASIL® C-DM produced a potential hair reconstruction.

Significant reduction of scale damage compare to controls:

40% with washing products

25% with stylingRinse off

Shampoo: 0,5% C-DM

Conditioner: 1% C-DM

Leave on

Styling product: 1% C-DM

MIRASIL® Phenyl functional silicone = SHINE

15

Phenylt r im et hicone and

high m olecular w eight polym er dilut ed in a solvent

Solvent INCI Mirasil name

No Phenyl trimethicone PTM

D5 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Diphenyldimethicone C-DPDM

Phenyltrimethicone = PTM Phenyl trimethicone (and) Dipheyldimethicone P-DPDM

Alkane C15-19 alkane (and) Diphenyldimethicone BRIGHT

Phenyl Performance concentrates

MIRASIL® BRIGHT : Brightness

16

Mirasil BRIGHT

provides an

improvement of hair

brightness.

This effect is 2.6 times

higher when compared

to phenyltrimethicone

treated hair locks and

better when compared

to the placebo.

Brightness test results

MIRASIL® BRIGHT : Anti humidity effect

17

Anti-humidity test results

Mirasil BRIGHT provides an anti humidity effect on hair

Hair locks are not electrostatic, curl is elastic and well defined

Aplication: Mirasil BRIGHT (1.0%,2.5% and 5.0%) serum after 4 hours of incubation at

30°C/70% RH.

Commercial Name INCI %

MIRASIL BRIGHTC15-19 alkane, Diphenyl

Dimethicone2,5

MIRASIL DM 350 Dimethicone 10

MIRASIL C-DMLCyclopentasiloxane (and)

Dimethiconol87,5

SERUM

MIRASIL® ADME-NP

18

INCI: Water (and) Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-6


Non ionic micro-emulsion

(25 nm particle size)

Silicone content: 27%

Clear products

Simple addition and mixing to

water based formulations

Color protection

Improves wet and dry combing

Imparts soft feel

Amodimethicone oil is also available Mirasil ADM 403

Amodimethicone

microemulsion

Amodimethicone :

MIRASIL® ADME-NP : Color protection

19

MIRASIL ADME-NP (amodimethicone microemulsion) helps maintaining color after 20

washes and 12 hours of UV exposition.

MIRASIL ADME-NP improves color retention 2,2 times compared to control

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

20

Control Dimethicone Benchmark MirasilADME-P

Co

lor

loss (

%)

% Color loss after 20 washes

Red color Control ADME-P

reference

Test performed in Caucasian hair locks

Treatment: Shampoo (1,5% active) + Water Leave on (3% active)

MIRASIL® ADM 403 . Photo protection

20

40

47

53

68

0 20 40 60 80

MIRASIL ADM 403

MIRASIL DM 60000

MIRASIL CM5

Black (No treated)

Degradation of Tryptophan (%)

Breakdown of disulfite bonds

MIRASIL® ADM 403 (Amodimethicone) in styling aids significantly protected hair from UV

damage as compared to the MIRASIL ® CM5 and the blank.

Styling aid formulation % Non-volatile components

MIRASIL CM5 = Placebo 0.0

5% MIRASIL DM 60000 in CM5 5.0

5% MIRASIL ADM 403 in CM5 5.0

Photo protection styling

Sunlight protection performance of MIRASIL® ADM 403 was assessed using simulated ultraviolet

radiation, 8 cycles of 12 hours each.

MIRASIL® HALS silicone

21

Oils Shampoo Conditioning Styling

ADMH 395 9500 100 ☺ ☺☺ ☺☺

ADMH 3900 90000 100 ☺ ☺☺

ADMH 403 275 100 ☺ ☺☺ ☺☺

ADMH B100

C15-19 alkane (and)

Propoxytetramethyl

piperinyl Dimethicone

2000 50 ☺ ☺ ☺☺☺

ADMH-E 125

Water (and)

Propoxytetramethyl

piperidinyl Dimethicone (and)

Trideceth-6

2000 25 ☺☺☺ ☺☺☺ ☺☺☺

Propoxytetramethyl

piperidinyl Dimethicone

►Wet combing

►Softness

►Shine

►Color protection

►Straightening effect

►Thermal protection

►Photoprotection

Performance Blend

Micro emulsion

Mirasil name INCI nameViscosity

(mm2/s)

HALS

Silicone

content

(%)

Applications Cosmetic benefits

MIRASIL HALS silicone – Differentiated properties

22

MIRASIL® SERUM – Multifunctional silicone

23

Propoxytetramethyl

Piperidinyl Dimethicone

+ +

Diphenyl DimethiconeDimethiconol

HALS

silicone

INCI: Cyclopent asiloxane (and) C15-19 Alkane

(and) Dim et hiconol (and) Diphenyl Dim et hicone

(and) Propoxyt et ram et hyl Piper idinyl Dim et hicone

MIRASIL® SERUM

Sensory profile

24

Triple bleached caucasian hair tresses28 volunteers

42 41

5450

7882

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

80

90

Softness Shine

Título del gráfico

Control Cyclopentasiloxane & Dimethiconol MIRASIL SERUM

THERMAL PROTECTION

MIRASIL® SERUM

SEM Micrographs

25

Thermal styling

150 strokes at 230ºC

NO THERMAL STYLING

BLANK

PROTECTED BYMIRASIL® SERUM

MIRASIL® SERUM

Solubility

26

Type of Material 95 : 5 *

Oils

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil S

Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran Oil S

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil S

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil S

Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil S

*= 95% of MIRASIL® Serum and 5% of tested material

S= Soluble

I= Completely or partially insoluble

CLEAR

FORMULATIONS

MIRASIL® SERUM

Conclusions

27

MIRASIL® SERUM protects hair from routine cleaning,

robust thermal styling and sun exposure while also

providing the hair with enhanced sensory characteristics.

MIRASIL® SERUM combine classical silicones and

HALS silicone in a ready to use product.

MIRASIL® for SKIN CARE and COLOR COSMETICS

28

Carrier for actives

Emulsifier

Shine

Spreading

Pigment dispersion

Longlasting

Soft focus

Non tacky

Mirasil High purity

products

Mirasil powder

silicone resin

Mirasil Silicone

polyether

Mirasil HALS silicone

Mirasil Phenyl


Mirasil Performance

concentrates

Mirasil PDMS oils

Mirasil Alkyl


MIRASIL® Performance Concentrates – Sensory Profile

29

Spreadability Absorbancy Softness Absorbancy Softness Slip Heaviness

C-DM □ □□□ □□ □□□□ □ □ □□□□ Nourishing feel

C-DMB □□ □□ □ □□□ □□□ □□ □□ Higest nourishing feel

C-DML □□□□ □□□ □□□□ □□ □□□□ □ □□□ Ease of rub-in, high glide

C-DML LV □□□□ □□□□ □□□ □□□ □□□□ □□ □ Melting sensation

C-DML MV □□□□ □□□□ □□□ □□□ □□□□ □□ □ Melting sensation

C-DML HV □□□ □□ □□ □□□ □□□ □ □□□ Melting sensation

C-DPDM □□ □□□ □ □ □□□ □□ □□□ Initial dry feel, high gloss

D-DML □□□ □ □□□ □ □□□ □□□ □□□ Highest soft dry feel, high playtime

D-DML LV □□□□ □□□□ □□□□ □ □□□□ □□□□□ □□

Medium soft dry feel, high playtime, melting

sensational upon rub-in

D-DML HV □□ □□□ □ □ □□□ □□ □□□□ High initial absorbancy feel

P-DPDM □□ □□ □ □□ □□□ □□□ □□□□□ Medium playtime, high gloss

Bright □□□□□ □□□ □ □ □ □□□□ □ Higest initial spreadability and slip

ADMH B 100 □ □ □ □ □□□ □ □

Medium softness, highest cushioning after feel,

high gloss

Serum □□□□□ □□ □□□□ □□□ □ □□□□□ □

No tackiness, high spreadability and highest

slip

DM 350cSt □□□ □□□□ □□ □□ □ □ □ Reference

MIRASIL® Name

Initial Feel After Feel

Others

DMCO PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone

C-DMPCyclopentasiloxane (and)

PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone

PEG 12 DM PEG-12 Dimethicone

BALANCE Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone

MIRASIL Emulsifier INCI name

BLUESTAR water in oil silicone emulsifiers – Product range

Silicone based emulsifiers can provide benefits such as wash-off resistance,

substantivity, improved barrier properties, emolliency and moisturization.

12

MIRASIL PEG 12 DM

31

INCI: PEG-12 Dimethicone

Features Characteristics Advantages in formulation Cosmetic benefitsUse

levels

Water soluble polyether modified

polysiloxane used as emollient for

personal care.

Foam booster, emulsifier,

plasticizing agent and wetting agent

for personal care.

Appearance..Clear yellowish liquid

Viscosity (mPa.s) ……... 200 to 800

Specific gravity (kg/m3) …....…1080

Refractive index……………... 1.457

Ÿ��D4 content (%)……………….. < 0,1

Emulsifier for fragances and

essential oils or pigments

Second surfactant for sensitive

products

Provides surface tension reduction

Improves foam of bath products

Enhances silky skin feel

Light conditioning effect improving

wet&dry combing

Provides lubricity to hair and skin

0.5%

to

3%

Test Method

Prepare aqueous solutions of Mirasil® PEG-12 DM

0,5%, 1% and 2,5%

Foam was generated by shaking

50 g samples for one min.

Foam height and foam quality were determined at

0 min, 5 mins and 30 mins.

MIRASIL® PEG 12 DM - Foam stabilizer

INITIAL

5 min

30 min

0,5% 1 % 2,5%

Best!Combined highly consistent bubble

sizes and most durable dense foam

11

MIRASIL BALANCE

33

INCI: Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone


levels

Alkyl and polyether modified

polysiloxane used as and excellent

W/O and W/Si emulsifier.

The copolyol acts as hydrophilic,

the alkyl offers the hydrophobocity

and the silicone offers the light and

silky feel .

Appearance……… Viscosus liquid

Viscosity (mPa.s) ……. 500 to 2300

Specific gravity (kg/m3) …....… 940


Ÿ��D4 content (%)……………….. < 0,1

Very effective emulsifier already

with low amounts

Emulsifier for non-temperature

sensitive emulsions

Co-emulsifier for W/O emulsions

Emollient properties

Improves spreading of

formulations

Gives a less tack skin feel

1%

to

3%

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

16/84 18/82 20/80 22/78 24/76 26/74 28/72 30/70

Vis

cosi

ty 1

03

mP

a.s

% Oil phase/Water phase

Viscosity vs % Oil phase

Stable formulations

MIRASIL® BALANCE - Phase ratio creams or lotions

Oil PhaseMIRASIL BALANCE 10%Decyl oleate 90%

Water PhaseNaCl 1%Water 99%

Process

Cold processHeildolph at 800 rpm

39

creamy

liquid

MIRASIL® BALANCE - Stability

Micrographs of MIRASIL BALANCE emulsion particles

The particle size does not vary

even after 1 month at 50ºC

Rheometric profile

MIRASIL BALANCE emulsion (2% active emulsifier, oil/water ratio = 20/80)

The viscosity and rheometric profile

don´t vary even after 1 month at 50ºC

MIRASIL BALANCE W/O emulsion diluted in decyl oleate

40

MIRASIL® BALANCE - High performance dispersant

The MIRASIL BALANCE

makes stable low

viscosity slurry TiO2, with

MIRASIL CAPRYLYL TSO

TiO2 slurries- Dispersion in CAPRYLYL TSO

(TiO2 / carrier fluid / emulsifier = 62/35/3)

The presence of a hydrophilic and a lipofilic part in the structure of MIRASIL

BALANCE is a key element for a dispersant agent.

41

MIRASIL® BALANCE - High performance dispersant

In color cosmetics, MIRASIL

BALANCE helps to disperse

pigments homogeneously,

providing uniform coverage

Coatability.

Test conducted on Leneta paper.

42

Mapping of BLUESTAR Emulsifiers – Product range

Formulation texture and oil type

12

Rich = High viscosity emulsion, cream

Light = Low viscosity emulsion, milky lotion

MIRASIL CAPRYLYL TSO

39

INCI: Caprylyl Methicone


levels

Alkyl modified polisiloxane of low

viscosity with an octyl pendant

group used as emollient.

Compatible with cosmetic oils and

waxes with an excellent

spreadability.


Viscosity (mm2/s) ……….…... 2 to 6



Ÿ��D4 content (%)……………….. < 0,1

Suitable for a wide range of

personal care formulations: skin and

body lotions, foundations, color

cosmetics,...

Ability to lower the surface tension

of vegetable oils

Reduce the tackiness of glycerin

Improves spreading of non-polar

liquids

Non tacky skin feel

Improves shine and color of

pigment based formulations

Improves drying time

5%

to

20%

MIRASIL® CAPRYLYL TSO – Spreadability

Higher spreading capacity of CAPRYLYL TSO compare to other cosmetic emolients.

Testing condition:

five µl of tested emollients was applied onto in-vitro skin

and measured spreadable area.

Emolient Surface at 2 min

CAPRYLYL TSO 472

Dimethicone (v5) 218

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 192

Hydrogentated Polyisobutene 91

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 41

31

MIRASIL CETYL DM

41

INCI: Cetyl Dimethicone


levels

Alkyl modified polisiloxane used

as emollient.

Compatible with cosmetic oils and

waxes. It can be used to replace

mineral oil in cosmetic formulations.


Viscosity (mPa.s) ………170 to 400



Ÿ��D4 content (%)……………….. < 0,1

Suitable for a wide range of

personal care formulations: skin and

body lotions, sun care lotions,

foundations, color cosmetics,...

Improves spreading of organic

emollients.

Emollient with less tackiness

Silky skin feel

Improves shine

Lubricant for pigment based

formulations

1%

to

5%

MIRASIL® CETYL DM – SHINE enhancer and substantivity

Aspect on the Surface after 1 wash with soap and water

The MIRASIL CETYL DM has:

• Excellent substantivity on the skin

and

• Is a very good shine enhancer

19

MIRASIL® CETYL DM – Dispersant capacity

The smaller the FP-WP difference is, the higher the oil dispersion capacity.

In color cosmetics formulations MIRASIL CETYL DM is a good lubricant for pigments

Compared to mineral oil and CM5,

the MIRASIL CETYL DM has

a higher dispersion capacity of TiO2

20

MIRASIL® CETYL DM – Sensory results on pure product

The good spreadability and

the emolient effect

of the MIRASIL CETYL DM

improves the skin care

properties of formulations

21

MIRASIL® MICROPEARL 40

45

INCI: Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Soft focus

Smooth-powderly skin

feel

Ball bearing effect

Soft focus effect

Matt effect

Easy and uniform

dispersion in cosmetic

formulations

Cosmetic benefitsAdvantages in formulationFeatures

4 m particle size

Highly pure spherical

Silicone resin particles

MIRASIL® MICROPEARL 40 – Soft focus effect

46

MIRASIL® MICROPEARL 40 – Soft focus and mattifying effect

47

BLACK LEATHER 50x, 90 micra aplication

Facial Base Cream 5,5% M40 Facial Cream

MIRASIL® HALS silicones

48

ADMH 395 9500 100

ADMH 3900 90000 100

ADMH 403 275 100

ADMH B100

C15-19 alkane (and)

Propoxytetramethylpiperinyl

Dimethicone

2000 50

Propoxytetramethylpiperidinyl

Dimethicone

Performance Blend

Oils

Mirasil name INCI nameViscosity

(mm2/s)

HALS Silicone

content (%)

HALS means “Hindered Amine Light Stabilizer”

INCI name is Propoxytetramethylpiperidinyl Dimethicone

MIRASIL® ADMH 3900 – Water resistance

49

1. In vitro Sun Protection Factor (SPF). Using an adequate substrate on which the

product has been spread, by means of a spectrophotometric method.

2. Water resistance. In vitro SPF of the product before and after water immersion (20 min)

The silicone Hals efficacy is demonstrated in water resistance test.

Water resistance of spray formulated with ADMH 3900 is 30% higher than the base (formulated

without HALS).

MIRASIL® ADMH 403 – HALS silicone

50

Pigments dispersion

Dispersion Capacity to Titanium Dioxide Dispersion Capacity to Red Iron Oxide

Wet Point (WP) : The smallest quantity of oil that allows obtain a cohesive mass

Flow Point (FP) : The smallest quantity of oil that allows obtain a flowing mass

The smaller the FP-WP difference is, the higher the oil dispersion capacity

THANK YOU !

2016-07-06 MIRASIL range

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