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Transcript of 2010 ATA presentation
Transforming Science Into Dreams:Taking A Closer Look
by Agnes Meilhacwww.beautyterm.com
from the Greek “kosmetikos” or skilled at adornment
Cosmetics
“articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on,
introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body… for cleansing,
beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance”
FD&C Act
Cosmetics: Part of Our Culture and
Civilization
Global Overview: the Cosmetics Industry Today
The Worldwide Cosmetics Market 1993 – 2009Average annual growth rate + 4.2%
Source: L’Oreal estimates, September 2010
Market Structure and Size
Source: L’Oreal, 2008
Top 10 Global Cosmetics Companies:
55% Total Market Sales
Source: L’Oreal, June 2009
Main Business Segments
Source: L’Oreal estimates, 2008, excl. soap, toothpaste and razors
-External trade
-R&D and Innovation
-Advertising / sales ratio
Defining Factors
An Industry Geared Toward Exports
0%
10%
20%
30%
40%
50%
60%
70%
80%
90% EU27USJapanChinaGermanyFranceUKItalySpain
Size of exports in € by country relative to the size of the domestic market (2006)
Cosmetics Industry: R & D and Innovation
0
1,000
2,000
3,000
4,000
5,000
6,000
7,000
8,000
1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005
ChinaJapanUSEU27
Source: European Patent Office (EPO)
Progression in the number of patents published
Advertising Over Sales Ratio
0.00%
5.00%
10.00%
15.00%
20.00%
25.00%co
smet
ic
food
ph
arm
acy
wir
eles
s
com
mu
nic
atio
n
soft
war
e
sem
i con
du
ctor
life
insu
ran
ce
Advertising / sales ratio across different industries in the US (2005)
Cosmetic advertising expenditure = $2.2 bn (2005)
What Innovation? What Technology?
Waterproof mascara that does not run
Anti-dandruff shampoos
Face powder that eliminates shiny skin
Light-reflecting pigments concealing
shadows under the eyes
Sun creams (protection against harmful
UV rays)
Self-tanning products
Today’s Brands
Are Defined
by
INNOVATION(Handout p. 4)
Lexical Syntactic Rhetorical
Language of Cosm etics
Loan wordsNeologismsVerbs Verbal adjectivesBuzzwords
Present tenseActive vs. Passive ToneImpersonalImperatives
Metaphors, similes and metonymyPersonificationSuperlatives
Innovation: from Science to Language
The Language of Cosmetics: Scientific, Technical, Advertising or
Patchwork?
science /technology
advertising
(Handout p. 1)
Borrow ings Neologisms Buzzw ords&
catchphrases
Role of verbs
Lexical Features
What Makes the Difference?
Loan Words in Translation: Intentional Strategy
1. From another language (culturally-bound concepts difficult to translate)
2. From another field of expertise
Last resort for want of a better solution or preserving elements of SL culture -> flacon, ampoule, pipette, burette, crème, enfleurage, camouflage makeup, fondant (*)
Vinay & Darbelnet (1958):
The simplest of all translation methods to overcome a lacuna (gap), usually a metalinguistic one (e.g. a new technical process, an unknown concept)
-> stem cells, growth factor, DNA, free radicals, oxidative stress
MAT-CHRONO
Moisturizing emulsion
Enriched with moisturizing and instant-action mattifying agents, this astonishingly fresh-textured, fondant emulsion leaves skin looking ideally shine-free and feeling moisturized from the moment of application. Soft-focus pigments work to conceal the appearance of skin irregularities. The skin’s texture looks more refined.
http://www.lierac.com/UK/products/face/hydration/mat-chrono_hydrationanti-shine/moisturizingemulsion.html
UK
com
pan
y w
eb
sit
e “Fondant” Buttery, meltaway, vanishing, rich and creamy, divinely luscious, luxurious, sumptuous?
Mat-Chrono Émulsion
Moisturizing Emulsion
Exclusively formulated to prevent and treat shiny skin and enlarged pores, this cream for day time contains a Triple Action Complex that improves skin’s elasticity, regulates the t-zone and tightens pores. Oil-Free. $44.00 1.42 OZ
http://www.lierac-usa.com/Products/Mat-Chrono%20Emulsion.aspx
US
com
pan
y w
eb
sit
e
Linguistic Mutation orFrenglish / Denglish / Spanglish?
- Language evolves over time as usage changes.
- “... many borrowings enter a language through translation...” *
* Vinay & Darbelnet (1958)
Loan Words in Translation: Intentional Strategy
1. From another language (culturally-bound concepts difficult to translate)
2. From another field of expertise
Last resort for want of a better solution or preserving elements of SL culture -> flacon, ampoule, pipette, burette, crème, enfleurage, camouflage makeup, fondant
Vinay & Darbelnet (1958):
The simplest of all translation methods to overcome a lacuna (gap), usually a metalinguistic one (e.g. a new technical process, an unknown concept)
-> stem cells, growth factor, DNA, free radicals, oxidative stress
- Aquacurrent Science: Moving Moisture Where It's Needed. Water is the universal solvent - central to life on earth and essential to overall health, beauty and wellness. While skin care and hair care products have traditionally focused on "locking-in" water moisture, the recent discovery of micro-channels underneath the skin's surface underscores the importance of releasing and channeling water to maintain healthy skin.
Aquacurrent Science by P&G
The Nobel Prize-winning discovery of aquaporins, proteins consisting of tiny micro-channels embedded in the skin cell walls underneath the skin's surface, is providing scientists with a new and better target to retain and enhance moisture in the skin.
Aquacurrent Science, inspired by the discovery of aquaporins, is the basis of unique product formulations that utilize the natural properties of water to help move moisture where it's needed for the best possible results. Click below to learn more about applications of this innovative science.
http://www.pgbeautygroomingscience.com/aquacurrents.html=
Aquaporin Technology by DIOR
Dior adds a luxurious helping hand to dry, parched skin with their legendary HydrAction Collection—the ultimate moisturizing arsenal for normal, dry, and combination skin. From sorbet-light crèmes to effective refining treatments, Dior's skin-soothing secret weapon—Aquacapt™ Complex—helps reinforce your complexion's natural moisture reserves to keep it feeling soft and hydrated all day long.
2003
5 phrases for talking about HYDRACTION ?
Aquaporin
in 1 second, encourages the passage of 1 billion water
molecules
DEEP WITHIN:
Long-term hydration
ON THE SURFACE: Immediate hydration
The cells are brimming with moisture
Water circulation is activated, skin replenished with moisture
INTENSE AND ACTIVE HYDRATION TEST RESULTSafter only 1 application to the skin
+ 77% in immediate hydration
+ 30% in 24-hour hydration
Dehydration lines disappear, the skin feels suppler, refreshed, plumper, more luminous and comfortable.
200521 3
4 5
Activity
Loan Words: Borrowed from Science
•hydrate
- moisturize
•exfoliate
- scrub
•regenerate
- revitalize
dehydration, keratinization, detoxification, hyperpigmentation, comedogenicity, post-inflammatory response, phototoxic reaction, free radicals, antioxidants, trophicity, dystrophy, collagen synthesis, cellular metabolism, lipolysis, lipogenesis, sebum secretion, enzymatic trigger, glycation, keratolytic, extracellular matrix, dermis, epidermis, stratum corneum, etc.
CalquesVinay & Darbelnet (1958): A special kind of borrowing, resulting in either:
• A lexical calque (borrowed word translated literally): dermocosmetics, cosmeceuticals, mattify, photo-aging (short for photo-induced aging), de-stress, de-wrinkle...
• A structural calque (borrowed expression with each of its elements translated into TL): optical corrector pigments (pigments correcteurs optiques, Nuxe), head note (also: top note), heart note (also: middle note), palpate and roll massage (palper rouler), external aggressions (stress factors), cosmeto-clinical trial, barrier function, ...
Calques: Examples
de-wrinkle (FR: dérider): “L’Oréal Dermo Expertise Age Perfect Cleansing MilkEnriched with magnesium, known for its revitalizing properties and vitamin C known for its energizing properties, the formula:- -Helps to de-wrinkle the skin and reduce the signs of
fatigue in mature skin.- -Hydrates the skin”
de-stress (FR: déstresser): “Elemis Soothing Chamomile Cleanser is a hypoallergenic, cooling, cleansing milk that removes impurities and make-up whilst calming and de-stressing the most sensitive skins.
It is formulated with harmonizing extracts of German Chamomile that soothe and de-stress the skin. Good for extra sensitive, delicate and hormonal skin.”
The Alternative: Paraphrasing
FR: décongestionner eliminate / remove / clear embedded impurities and toxins, calm swollen areas
FR: désincruster deep-cleanse (unclog the pores)
FR: défatiguer revitalize, invigorate, stimulate
FR:désinfiltrer eliminate excess fluids, reducedégonfler puffiness, reduce edema/swellingdésengorger by improved re-absorption anddrainer drainage of retained liquids and
toxins, calm swollen areas (Nuxe)
Neologisms: New Word Formations / New Meaning
“newly coined lexical units or existing lexical units that acquire a new sense”
(Newmark, 2001:140)
Established: moisturizer / concealer
More recent coinages: bronzer, volumizer, luminizer / luminizing (YSL), highlighter, complexion-brightener (Dior), booster, corrector, crepiness, glide-on, cosmeceuticals, nanoparticulate, MYO-aging (L'Oréal), photoaging, dermobiotic (LRP), Lipo-Hydroxy-Acid or LHA (LRP for capryloyl salicylic acid),
Creative Compounding:Extensive Use in English Advertising
Languagebody-enhancing, body-sculpting, body-contouring, figure-slimming, FR: amincissant skin-tensing, slimmingshine-free acne-prone (instead of acneic)longer-lastingquick-absorbingbrush-onmust-havelight-reflecting, natural-looking
bring-along take-anywhereon-the-go (FR: nomade)radiance-boostingskin-liftingpore-clarifyinglipid-replenishing (FR: relipidant)
wrinkle-fillingfilm-forming (= filmogenic) pick-me-up (noun and adj) touch-upfatigue-busting (défatiguant)
Translating brand-specific concepts = translating culture-specific concepts (CSCs)
Possibilities:
Paraphrase: explain the meaning of the SL expression instead of translating it
Modulation: use a TL term that seems similar to or has the same "relevance" as the SL term
Loan / borrowing: preserve the SL term intact
Neologism: make up a new word
Brand-Specific Concepts: a Question of “Corporate Culture”
Venuti (1995):To domesticate or to foreignize?
The Never-Ending Struggle:Finding the Right Balance
- hypersensitive skin - intolerant
skin
“peau intolérante”
(Handout p. 5)
Venuti (1995):To domesticate or to foreignize?
The Never-Ending Struggle:Finding the Right Balance
- reflect light -hold
light
“fixer la lumière”
« Chaque harmonie se compose de six teintes, parmi trois familles de couleurs, spécifiquement choisies pour recréer un éclat sur mesure : - - Des couleurs correctrices pastel pour rectifier la tonalité de
la peau. Le vert atténue le trop de rose des teints clairs ; le rose dégrise les teints ternes ; le bleu déjaunit les teints fatigués ; le mauve fixe la lumière et éclaircit les zones d’ombres de tous les teints. »
“Each color harmony is comprised of six shades, from three different color families, which were specially chosen to recreate customized radiance: - Corrective pastel colors to even out skin tone. Green diminishes the excessive pink hue in fair skin; pink adds a healthy glow to a dull complexion; blue takes the yellow tone out of tired skin; mauve reflects / sets or holds light and adds brightness to shadowed areas in all complexions.”
Brand-Specific Choices:Combinations vs. Consistency
puffiness and swelling
puffy, baggy eyes
undereye bags
dark [ (under)eye ]
circles / shadows
puffy bagsunder eyes
Buzzwords and Catchphrases:Dynamic Equivalence in Action
anti-aging: age-decelerating (Clinique), age-defying, age-reversing, age-perfecting, age-deflecting, de-aging
anti-aging, the Baby Boomer version:pro-youth, pro-age, preserving, image extending, youth extending
Translation approach based on the “principle of equivalent effect” and tailoring the message to the receptor’s linguistic needs and cultural expectations… (Nida, 1964)
L’O
r d
e V
ie b
y D
ior
Product Benefits and Results:
Verbs and Verbal AdjectivesCus tomers do no t buy a p roduc t ; they buy the
benefi ts and resu l t s i t aff ords them.
“Up” verbs “Down”verbs
activate, boost, accelerate, energize reduce, diminish, lessen, decrease
ease, alleviate, soothe, appease, relieve attenuate, minimize, soften, erase
fortify, strengthen, nourish, nurture rid / free (the skin), eliminate, remove
stimulate, invigorate relax, de-stress, de-wrinkle
smooth, even out, plump up, firm mask, hide, conceal, disguise,
improve, enhance, emphasize fight, combat, battle
illuminate, brighten, suffuse with… de-emphasize
Verbs with the prefix –re (intention to produce a better
result): re d e s i g n t h e f a c i a l o u t l i n e s
re s t r u c t u re t h e i n t e rc e l l u l a r c e m e n t ,
re p l e n i s h m o i s t u re re s e r v e s ,
re n e w c o l l a g e n fi b e r s ,
re j u v e n a t e ,
re a c t i v a t e t h e s k i n ’ s re p a i r p ro c e s s ,
re t ex t u r i z e / re fi n i s h t h e s k i n ’ s s u r f a c e ,
re fi n e t h e s k i n ’ s t ex t u re ,
re g e n e r a t e d a m a g e d c e l l s ,
re b a l a n c e d e e p h y d r a t i o n ,
Product Benefits and Results:
Verbs and Verbal Adjectives
Participal / verbal adjectives (same form as the
participle of a verb)
-ing (properties/qualities): relaxing, stimulating,
invigorating, exfoliating, nourishing, deep-cleansing,
brightening, whitening, skin-lifting, pore-clarifying…
-ed (beauty results): relaxed, stimulated, reinvigorated,
exfoliated, lifted, plumped up, enhanced in appearance,
replenished…
Product Benefits and Results:
Verbs and Verbal Adjectives
Spotlight on Adjectives and Adverbs:
Extensive use of:
Evaluative /comparative adjectives:
“For the first time, there’s a remarkable gel that can give your
hair any look you want – sleeker, fuller, straighter, curlier,
more natural, even wet – without a drop of alcohol or oil.”
Adverbs (adjective or verb modifiers):
thoroughly moisturized / ideally hydrated skin, carefully
selected ingredients, expertly formulated skin care products,
beautifully youthful complexion, lastingly nourished, flawlessly
smoothed, intensely replenished, genuinely more even-toned,
etc.
Terminology Choices (Register)
Distinguishing features of language associated with variations in context and relating to the language
user (jargon) and/or language use:
1. fi eld = subject matter2. tenor = wr i ter-reader re lat ionship3. mode = formal / informal
efficacy (FR: efficacité) effectivenesstechnicity (FR: technicité) technical expertise
technical sophistication
superfatting extra rich, (FR: agent surgraissant, high-lipid, gel surgras) lipid-enriched
Presenttense,activevoice
Im perative,interrogative
and cond.sentences
Avoidanceof
negatives
Ellipsis(elliptical
sentences)
Syntactic Features
What Makes the Difference?For Future Discussion…
M etaphor,simile,
m etonym y
Personification Superlatives(hyperbole)
Euphemism s,semanticam biguity
Rhetorical Features
What Makes the Difference?For Future Discussion…
Thank you for your attention!
Agnes Meilhacwww.beautyterm.com